A  revised  edition  of  this  volumey  prepared  for 
the  season  of  1 869,  will  be  published  early  in 
the  coming  year.  A  large  mapy  covering  all 
the  summer  resorts  of  the  country,  has  bsen  or- 
dered for  this  edition.  Tourists  who  discover 
errors  in  the  present  volume,  zvill  confer  a 
favor  by  informing  the  compiler,  at  the  office 
of  publication.  No,  229  Broadway,  New- York, 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


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Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  da  microreproductions  historiqu( 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notos/Notas  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


itute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
lich  may  b<)  bibiiographicaily  unique, 
tay  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
ction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
I  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


loured  covers/ 
luverture  de  couieur 

ivers  damaged/ 
»uvert)ire  endommag^e 

ivers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
>uverture  rastaurde  et/ou  peliicui^e 

)ver  title  missing/ 
titre  de  couverture  manque 

iloured  maps/ 

irtes  g6ographiques  en  couieur 

}ioured  init  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
•ore  de  cjouleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

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Dund  with  other  material/ 
bM  avec  d'autres  documents 

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long  interior  margin/ 

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istortion  ie  long  de  la  marge  int^rieure 

lank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
ppear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
ave  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
se  peut  que  certainas  pages  blanches  ajouties 
»rs  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  ie  texte, 
lais,  lorsque  ceia  dtait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
as  6t6  fiimdes. 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  Ie  meiileur  exempiaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6X6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  ddtails 
de  cat  exempiaire  qui  sont  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibiiographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite.  ou  qui  c  ■-  3vent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mithode       male  de  fiimage 
sont  indiqu^s  ci-dessous. 


I      I   Coloured  pages/ 


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Pages  damaged/ 
Pcjges  endommag^es 

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Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxe( 
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Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d6tach6es 

Showthrough> 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Qualiti  inigale  de  i'impression 

Includes  supplementary  materit 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppiimentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seuie  Edition  disponible 


I      I  Pages  damaged/ 

I      I  Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

rri  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 

I      I  Pages  detached/ 

r^  Showthrough/ 

I      I  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

I      I  Includes  supplementary  material/ 

I      I  Only  edition  available/ 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc..  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partieilement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuiilet  d'errata.  une  pelure. 
etc..  ont  6t6  film6es  d  nouvesu  de  fapon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


dditional  comments:/ 
ommentaires  suppidmentaires; 


Various  pagingt. 


im  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 
ument  est  fiim6  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu6  ci-dessous. 

14X  18X  22X 


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30X 


12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


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e  copy  filmed  hare  hat  baan  raproducad  thanks 
tha  ganarosity  of: 

Moriuet  Library 
University  of  Ottawa 

L'axamplaira  filmA  fut  raproduit  grAca  A  la 
ginArositA  da: 

BibliotMque  MorisMt 
Univ6rait<  d'Ottawa 

la  images  appearing  here  are  tha  best  quality 
ssibia  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 

ming  contract  specifications. 


Las  images  suivantes  ont  At6  reproduites  avec 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  < 
da  la  natteti  de  i'exemplaire  f  ilm6,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  da 
filmage. 


riginal  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
tginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
e  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
on,  or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
her  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
rst  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
on,  and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
illustrated  impression. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  < 
papier  est  imprim6e  sont  fiimis  en  commenpa 
^ar  la  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
darniire  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'Impression  ou  d'iilustration,  soit  par  la  secoi 
plat,  salon  ie  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmte  en  commenpant  par  la 
pramlAra  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'Impression  ou  d'iilustration  et  en  terminant  | 
la  darnlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


he  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
lall  contain  tha  symbol  «^  (meaning  "CON- 
INUED"),  or  tha  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
/hichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparattra  sur  la 
darniAr)  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  seion  Ie 
cas:  la  symbols  —►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  ie 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 


laps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
ifferent  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
ntirely  Included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
eginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
ght  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
equired.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
nethod: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc,  peuvent  < 
fiimte  A  des  taux  ds  reduction  dIffArents. 
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et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  Ie  nombre 
d'images  nAcessaira.  Las  diagrammes  suivant 
iliustrent  la  mAthode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

BOOK 


OF 


./ft- 


<*B#*BV    n*Bff* 


r?  ^'^ 


} 


EXP7>^iINING 

WHERE  TO  FIKD  THEM,  HOW  TO  FIND  THEM,  AND  THEIR 

ESPECIAL  ADVANTAGES, 


"WITH 


DETAILS  OF  TIME  TABLES  AND  PRICES. 


A  COMPLETE  GUIDE    FOR   THE    SUMMER   TOURIST, 


WITH  MAPS  AND  ILLUSTBATIONS. 


COMPILED  BY 

CHARLES    H.    SWKETSER, 

Author  of  the  "  Guide  to  the  Northwest,"  and  Editor  of  the  "  New- 
York  Evening  MaU." 


NEW-YORK : 
"EVENINQ  MAIL"  OFFICE,  No.  329  BROADWAY. 


1868. 

Caric*hrqi.fe 

Uf^iversitd .  Ottawa  •  University 

Map  LK>rcjry 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1863,  by 

CHARLES  H.  SWEETSER, 

in  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States,  for 
the  Southern  District  of  New-York, 


A.  GEAT  A  OBEEK,      •     0  C?  O 


JOHN 

FBINTEBB, 
16  AND  18  JACOB  BTBBST,  KEW-TOBC. 


'•^1 


•-'^   , ,  '   ■<         •    W 


%.-.. 


This  Book  op  Summer  Bbsorts  is  intended  as  a  hand-book  of 
practical  information.  It  lias  been  carefully  and  laboriously  com- 
piled, and  is  believed  to  be  generally  correct.  Another  season  it 
will  be  made  still  more  complete.  We  shall  be  happy  to  receive 
from  any  source  facts  and  incidents  that  will  add  value  to  future 
editions.  Our  country  is  a  splendid  one  for  the  tourist,  but  it  has 
wretched  guide-books.  We  trust  that  this  volume  will  increase  tbo 
interest  in  the  former,  and  suggest  improvements  for  the  latter. 

We  have  gleaned  from  any  and  all  sources  at  command,  borrowed 
and  original.  Especially  have  we  culled  from  BurVs  Connecticut 
B'mr  Guide,  WaUing's  Route  Books,  Lossing's  Hudson,  Star  King's 
White  mils,  and  William  L.  Stone's  Saratoga  writings.  But  a  very 
considerable  part  of  the  book  is  original. 

For  many  matters  of  interest  to  the  summer  tourist,  we  refer  the 
reader  to  the  introductory  chapter.  And  for  pure  air,  bird  concerts, 
sparkling  waters,  long  life,  health,  and  happiness,  we  refer  one  and 
all  to  the  places  whither  this  book  directs. 

Nkw-York,  June,  1868, 


I 


The  compiler  of  this  volume  will  make  a  specialty  of  reporting 
summer  resort  news  through  the  columns  of  his  paper,  the  New- 
York  Evening  Mail.  In  this  journal  there  will  be  presented  from 
time  to  time  most  valuable  correspondence  ft-om  many  resorts,  and 
every  thing  of  interest  to  the  summer  traveler  will  be  carefully 
noted.  The  Mail  will  be  sent  to  any  address  during  the  months  of 
June,  July,  August,  and  September  for  two  dollars,  or  at  the  general 
rate  of  fifty  cents  per  month. 


f 


GENEEAL  DIYISIOKS. 


I. 


INTRODUCTORY  CHAPTER. 


II. 


LAKES,  RIVERS,  AND  MOUNTAINS. 


III. 
SPRINGS  AND  FALLS. 


IV. 

SEASIDE  RESORTS. 


DOMINION  OF  CANADA. 


VI. 

TIME  TABLES. 


^  I 


vn. 
COMPLETE  TOPICAL  INDEX. 

VIII. 

MEMORANDA. 


IX. 

ADVERTISEMENTS  FOR  TOURISTS. 


MAPS. 


NEW-ENGLAND. 

LONG  ISLAND  SOUND. 

THE  PROVINCES. 

LAKE  CIIAMPLAIN. 

ROUTES  TO  SOUTHERN  SPRINGS. 


i 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Cattskill  Mountain  Hoase. 
Lake  Memphremagog  House. 
The  Flume,  White  Mountains. 
Crystal  Cascade,  White  Mountains. 
Glen  Ellis  Fall8,White  Mountains. 
White  Mountains. 
Fort  William  Henry  Hotel,  Lake 

George. 
Tadoussac  Hotel,  Quebec  Prov. 
Fouquet's  Hotel,  Plattsburg. 
Windermere  House,  Greenwood 

Lake. 
Empire   and   Congress   Springs, 

Saratoga. 
High  Rock  Spring,  Saratoga. 
HiiSh  Rock  Spring  in  1767. 


Congress  Hall,  Saratoga. 

Union  Hotel  and  Grounds,  Sara- 
toga. 

Columbian  Spring,  Saratoga. 

Messena  Sprmgs. 

Taghkanic  Falls. 

Pulpit  Falls,  Ithaca,  N.  Y. 

Falls  at  Ithaca. 

Ocean  House,  Newport. 

White  Sulphur  Springs,  Va. 

Falls  of  Minnehaha,  Minnesota. 

Arched  Rocks,  Lake  Superior. 

Mt.  Mansfield  House,  Stowe,  Vt. 

Genesee  Falls,  N.  Y. 

Franconia  Notch,  Whl' ~  Moon- 
tains. 


i 


GENERAL    INTRODUCTORY    CHAPTER. 


••♦•- 


PEACTICAL   HINTS   TO    THE    TOUKIST. 

TiiEKR  are  five  tilings  that  an  experionccd  traveler  al- 
ways  makes  a  particular  care  : 

/.  He  owns  a  good  trunk. 

IT.  He  carries  thick  clothiivj,  even  in  the  hottest  weather. 

III.  ITis  hand-satchel  is  never  without  camphor,  lauda- 
num, and  brandy  for  medicine, 

IV.  He  docs  not  drink  water  in  unaccustomed  places. 

r.  He  buys  through  tickets,  e.  sn  when  not  going  beyond 
a  local  station. 

The  summer  tourist  should  certainly  have  his  trip 
pretty  well  mapped  out  before  starting.  If  he  has  four 
weeks  and  two  hundred  and  fifty  dollars,  he  can  make 
either  of  the 

Lake  Superior  Trip, 

White  Mountain  Trip, 

Virginia  Springs  Trip, 

St.  Lawrence  and  Saguenay  Trip. 

If  he  has  six  weeks  and  three  hundred  and  fifty  dollars, 
he  i)an  make  the  j' 

Trip  OF  THE  Provinces. 


10 


INTUODUCTOUY   CIIArXKR. 


% 


For  a  four  weeks'  Bujourn  at  the 

Sea-Siiouk, 

one  liundred   and   fifty  dollars  will  sufllcc,  even  at  tlio 
most  popular  ])lacefl. 

If  tlio  tourist  luis  only  two  wecka  and  ono  hundred  dol- 
lar, he  can  make  a  trip  to 

Sauatoga  Spiiinos 

and 

Lake  George. 

A  younpf  man  can  make  the  trip  of  the  White  Moun- 
tains with  one  hundred  dollars,  and  wander  about  for  ten 
days  or  a  fortnij[rht. 

If  one  desires  to  breathe  the  sea  air  for  a  little,  but  does 
not  care  to  spend  over  fifty  or  seventy-five  dollars,  he  will 
do  well  to  go  to  Branford,  Ct.,  Watch  Hill,  II.  I.,  or  llye, 
N.  H. 

The  tourist  should  not  visit  Niagara,  Long  Branch,  New- 
port, or  Cape  May,  intending  to  live  at  the  best  hotels, 
witliout  providing  himself  with  money  at  the  rate  of  fifty 
dollars  a  week. 

The  time-tables  published  in  the  railway-guides,  al- 
though very  valuable,  are  not  so  accurate  as  they  should  be. 
If  you  make  extensive  journeyings,  you  will  do  well  to 
l^rovide  yourself  with  the  time-tables  of  the  roads  over 
which  you  pass.  They  can  be  procured  at  leading  hotels, 
or  at  central  or  union  ticket-offices.  This  will  save  you 
much  vexation. 

Remember  that  the  general  cost  of  travel  upon  railroads 
is  three  and  one  third  cents  per  mile.  Upon  steamboats  it 
is  generally  one  third  less. 


IXTnODUCTORY   CIIAPTKR. 


11 


at  tlio 
•ed  dol- 


Moun- 
for  ten 

ut  does 
lie  will 
or  live, 

1,  New- 
hotels, 
of  fifty 

cles,  al- 
3uld  bo. 
well  to 
is  over 
hotels, 
Lve  you 

lilroads 
boats  it 


At  Nlnj]fftrn,  and  the  Wliito  ^rouiitftlns,  tlioro  1«  nn  ep- 
tablirtlied  rate  of  ])rireH  for  tin*  hacknicn  and  stn^jfrs.  Tlieni^ 
you  can  learn  at  tlui  hotel-desk,  and  if  you  then  Hubmit  to 
extortion,  it  is  nimplest  foolishnesM. 

When  you  have  lon;:^  days  of  journey  before  you,  carry 
lunclu'H  in  your  satchels.  It  will  save  extra  vagrant  ex- 
pense's, and  will  alTortl  a  vast  deal  more  comfort  than  tha 
railroad  restaurants. 

Long  Uranch,  Saratoga,  and  tho  White  Mountains  aro 
inconiparal>ly  tlu?  three  great  sumnier  resorts  of  tho  coun- 
try. Of  tho  Lakes,  Mahopac  is  first.  Tho  "  (iroffory 
House"  there  is  unccpialed  in  the  country.  The  "Pecpiot 
House,"  at  New-London,  i^  certainly  tho  most  fashionable 
Bummer  hotel  in  th(;  countrv. 

If  you  aro  planning  a  trip  among  the  Adlrondacks,  re- 
member that  Plattsburg,  Vt.,  is  the  grand  starting-point. 
Go  directly  to  Fouquet's  Hotel,  and  there  you  can  get  all 
information,  and  mak(}  all  your  plans.  Do  not  plan  for 
less  than  six  weeks,  if  you  aro  going  to  tho  Adirondacks. 
Two  hundred  dollars  will  cover  the  expense. 

In  going  to  tho  White  Mountains,  go  up  the  Connecti- 
cut Valley,  and  return  by  way  of  Portland. 

For  downright  rough  sea-sido  experience,  the  best  point 
for  the  tourist  is  Mount  Desert,  Maine.  You  can  spend  a 
fortnight  here  for  fifty  dollars. 

Some  of  the  best  fishing  points  are  at  the  eastern  ex- 
tremity of  Long  Island,  and  which  are  almost  tlie  only 
places  not  fully  recorded  in  this  book.  Another  season 
we  shall  make  this  more  complete.  But  it  the  tourist  takes 
the  boat  to  Sag  Harbor,  he  ^^'ill  find  a  good  boarding-house 
there,  and  if  ho  goes  by  Long  Island  Railroad  to  Green- 
port,  he  will  have  no  difficulty  in  locating  among  ii^e  fa- 
vorite haunts  of  the  fishermen. 


12 


INTRODUCTORY    CHAPTER. 


For  trout-fishing',  go  to  Lake  Umbagog,  north  of  t\e 
White  Mountains  about  20  miles.  TJiere  are  no  hotels 
here,  but  you  can  live  with  the  farmers,  and  have  glorious 
bread  and  milk.  The  starting-point  for  Umbagog  is 
Gorham,  N.  H. 

The  Delaware  Water  Gap  trip  affords  a  view  of  some  of 
the  finest  scenery  in  all  the  country.  There  are  splendid 
hotels  here,  and  it  is  a  most  fascinating  trip  to  take. 

For  a  far  trip,  nothing  can  be  more  interesting,  varied, 
and  healthy  than  up  Lake  Superior,  across  in  the  forests 
(by  stage)  to  St.  Paul,  thence  down  the  Mississippi,  and 
home  by  Madison,  Chicago,  and  Detroit.  This  requires 
six  weeks,  and  three  hundred  and  fifty  dollars.  There  is 
superb  fishing  all  about  St.  Paul.  For  any  one  inclined 
to  consumption,  no  better  trip  can  be  taken  in  the  world. 
Only  remember  in  going  up  Lake  Superior,  that  only  one 
boat  (the  Keweenaw)  goes  all  the  way  through  the  lake  to 
Superior  City. 

The  White  Sulphur  Springs  are  most  popular,  and  are 
well  described  in  this  volume. 

For  a  lengthy  summer  visit,  Conroy,  N.  H.,  Manchester, 
Vt.,  Stockbridge,  Northampton,  and  Greenfield,  Mass.,  and 
Litchfield  and  Stamford,  Ct.,  are  the  most  delig'htful. 

The  most  enchanting  near  mountain  view  in  the  coun- 
try is  from  Mount  Holyoke,  near  Northampton,  Mass. 

If  you  go  to  the  White  Mountains,  do  not  fail  to  visit 
Berlin  Fails,  above  Gorham.  They  are,  inadvertently, 
almost  overlooked  in  our  White  Mountain  chapter. 

Of  the  Long  Branch  hotels,  •*  Howland's"  is  most  exclu- 
sive, "  Stetson's"  most  elegant,  the  "  Continental"  the 
largest  and  gayest,  the  "  Mansion"  finest  situated  for  the 
water,  and  the  "  Metropolitan"  nearest  the  cars  and  most 
reasonable  in  prices. 


f 


INTRODUCTORY    CHAPTER. 


13 


f 


'»■ 


The  Guilford  Point  House,  at  Guilford,  Ct.,  is  ono  of 
the  very  best  sea-side  hotels.  It  is  quiet  and  yet  fashion- 
able, and  the  prices  reasonable. 

The  College  Hill  House,  at  Poughkeepsie,  Highland 
House,  at  Garrison's,  (West-Point,)  Heath  House,  at 
Schooley's  Mountain,  and  the  Saint  Alban's  House,  on 
Lake  Champlain,  are  all  famous  for  their  excellent  man- 
agement. ' 

In  making  fishing  excursions,  there  is  little  advantag(^ 
in  carrying  with  you  any  apparatus.  It  can  be  procuretl 
easily  and  cheaply  at  all  the  fishing  resorts. 

For  mackerel-fishing,  go  to  Swampscot,  Mass.  For  bl no- 
fishing,  cruise  among  the  Thimble  Islands  in  the  Sound, 
off  Branford.  For  crabbing  and  clams,  the  Rocky  Point 
Hovse,  near  Providence,  is  celebrated. 

At  the  Sault  Sainte  Marie,  Lake  Superior,  +here  is  a  hotol 
that  is  much  frequented  by  fishermen.  At  this  point  the 
Indians  catch  great  quantities  of  lake  trout  for  the  market. 
The  three  best  lakes  in  Minnesota  for  fishing  are :  Minne- 
tonka.  White  Bear,  and  Clear  Lake.  There  are  hotels  at 
each.  There  is  superb  fishing  in  the  lakes  about  Madison, 
Wisconsin. 

If  you  want  a  grand  old  buffalo  hunt,  go  to  Fort  Abcr- 
crombie,  by  stage  from  Saint  Paul.  For  the  best  dc(.'r 
hunting,  go  to  Sunrise,  Wisconsin,  on  the  military  and 
stage  road  from  Saint  Paul  to  Superior  City.  For  brook 
trout,  there  is  no  place  in  all  the  land  equal  to  "  Twin 
Lakes,"  20  miles  west  of  Superior  City. 

Young  men  who  desire  adventure  will  find  the  best 
ocean  trip  from  Superior  City  up  the  Saint  Louis  Kiver, 
across  Sandy  Lake,  and  down  the  Mississippi  to  Saint 
Paul.    This  requires  a  week,  and  an  Indian  guide  or  two. 

The  trip  *'  across  the  Continent "  has  been  ignored  in 


14 


INTJJODUCTORY   CHAPTER. 


this  book,  as  hardly  yet  practicable  for  the  ordinary  sum- 
mer tourist.  It  will  doubtless  take  its  place  in  our  next 
(Hlition. 

In  our  account  of  Sharon  Springs  we  have  neglected  to 
fH[>;'ak  of  Union  Hall,  one  of  the  leading  hotels  there.  It 
is  kept  by  Mr.  A.  Willmann.  Terms,  $3.50  per  day,  wHh 
a  reduction  for  families ;  rooms  for  300  guests.  House 
open  from  June  15th  to  September  15th.  Sulphur  baths 
may  be  had  here. 

In  our  Staten  Island  article  we  have  neglected  to  notice 
Pettler's  Hotel,  which  has  just  been  purchased  by  Mr. 
Lachmeyer,  and  which  is  now  being  refitted  and  enlarged. 
The  house  overlooks  the  entire  Bay  of  New- York,  and  is 
I'cached  from  the  first  steamboat  landing  on  either  side. 

The  "New- York  Hotel,"  at  Pleasure  Bay,  has  been 
leased  by  Mrs.  Mortimer,  who  kept  the  "  Cooper  Cottage" 
last  year. 

Nearly  all  the  summer  hotels  will  open  this  year  on  the 
J  bt  of  June. 

Tourists  who  propose  to  make  the  overland  trip  to  Cali- 
fornia will  find  some  useful  tables  among  the  time-tables 
at  the  end  of  the  volume. 

In  planning  for  the  Lake  Superior  trip,  the  tourist 
8liould  remember  that  boats  leave  tri- weekly  from  Detroit 
and  Cleveland.  The  Keweenaw  goes  to  Superior  City. 
The  Meteor  and  other  boats  to  Ontonagon  only. 

In  going  to  Saint  Paul,  Minnesota,  if  you  do  not  have 
the  time  for  the  steamboat  trip  ui)  the  Mississippi,  you  can 
go  all  the  way  by  cars,  crossing  the  Mississippi  at  Prairie 
du  Chien.  Maps  and  time-tables  can  be  had  of  Mr.  Prince, 
No.  2  Astor  House,  New- York. 

Among  the  excursions  announced  for  the  summer,  none 
will  be  more  delightful  than  tliose  planned  by  the  New- 
Jersey  Railway  to  the  Virginia  Springs. 


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LAKES,  RIVERS,  AND  MOUNTAINS. 


ALONG   THE    HUDSON    BIYEB. 


Mr.  Lossing,  in  his  Book  of  the  Hudson,  (to  which,, 
with  other  volumes,  we  are  greatly  indebted,)  well  re- 
marks, that  "  the  past  has  left  scarcely  a  record  upon  the- 
shores  of  this  river  ;  it  is  full  of  the  living  present,  illus- 
trating by  its  general  aspect  the  free  thought  and  free  ac- 
tion which  are  giving  strength  and  solidity  to  the  young 
and  vigorous  nation  within  whose  bosom  its  bright  waters 
flow."  The  Hudson  is  commonly  spoken  of  in  comparison 
with  the  Rhine ;  but,  unlike  that  less  charming  stream,, 
its  beauties  are  those  of  nature,  and  not  antiquity  ;  its  dis- 
tinction is  almost  wholly  dependent  upon  the  peculiar; 
attractions  of  its  banks,  its  woods  and  mountains.  We 
start,  therefore,  appropriately,  from  the  busiest  city  in  the 
world,  and  shall  seldom  be  turned  aside  from  Nature's 
beauty  by  tradition  or  history  till  we  lose  ourselves  in 
the  primeval  forest  whence  the  Hudson  springs.  Our  way 
lies  now  over  the  very  finest  route  for  the  summer  tourist 
in  all  the  country  ;  and  it  is  peculiarly  American,  as  it  is 
peculiarly  beautiful. 

In  the  present  article,  we  shall  include  not  only  the  im- 
mediate banks  of  the  river,  but  points  of  interest  along 
the  Harlem  and  Piermont  (Northern  New-Jersey)  Railways, 


LAKES,   niVEBS,    AND   MOUNTAINS. 


li 


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as  fitly  belonging  here.  The  river-trip  proper  may  bo 
made  best  in  cither  one  of  two  ways  :  by  the  day -boat  to 
Albany,  the  "  Daniel  Drew,"  or  tlio  "  Chauncey  Vibbard," 
9  A.M.,  from  foot  of  Harrison  street ;  fare,  $1 ;  excellent  din- 
ner ($1)  on  board ;  or  by  the  Hudson  River  Railway,  in  Wag- 
ner's "  drawing-room  cars,"  which  afford  at  once  elegance, 
seclusion  without  danger,  and  as  perfect  a  view,  through 
largo  windows,  as  can  be  gained  from  land ;  (charge,  $1 
extra,  over  fare,  to  Albany.)  The  time  to  Albany  is,  by 
steamboat,  about  15  hours ;  by  rail,  6  hours  on  express 
trains,  Q^  to  7  on  others.  Fare  on  railway — about  one  third 
less  in  summer  than  in  winter — through  to  Albany,  $8.20. 

For  the  tourist,  the  Hudson  River  will  begin  at  Harrison 
or  at  Thirtieth  street,  and  be  little  more  than  a  place  to  get 
away  from  until  he  reach  One  Hundred  and  Fifty-second 
street,  cUias  Washington  Heights,  where  there  is  a  way- 
fitation  of  the  railway,  and  a  large  hotel  just  opposite. 

Washington  Heights  may  well  be  made  a  point  of  de- 
parture by  such  tourists  as  are  unfamiliar  with  the  ele- 
gant upper  portion  of  New- York  Island  and  its  neighbor- 
hood. Revolutionary  memories  are  most  plentiful  here, 
and  one  can  almost  perceive  the  struggle  going  on  be- 
tween the  bones  of  the  martyrs  of  76  and  the  cabbages 
of  our  wealthy  butchers  and  bakers,  etc.,  who  have  pur- 
chased and  are  metamorphosing  the  ancient  ground.  A 
ride  of  5  miles  in  any  direction  over  the  splendidly 
macadamized  Bloomingaale  road,  the  continuation  (for 
more  than  20  miles)  of  Broadway,  or  over  many  of 
the  by-ways,  will  richly  repay  the  visitor.  The  natural- 
ist Audubon  purchased  and  improved,  a  few  years  ago,  a 
fine  grove  less  than  a  quarter-mile  above  the  hotel,  calling 
\t  Audubon  Park.  The  inclosure  is  now  filled  with  pretty 
cottages,  the  one  nearest  the  south-west  being  the  original 


LAKES, 


RIVERS,   AND  MOUNTAINS. 


mansion.  Tho  widow  of  tho  savant  resides  in  one  of  the 
other  dwollinffs.  Near  the  park,  toward  tho  east,  is  tho 
Trinity  Cliurch  Cemetery,  in  which  are  many  notable 
graves,  among  them  that  of  Audubon.  Tho  Convent  of 
the  Sacred  Heart,  a  large  and  fashionable  young  ladies' 
boarding-school  as  well  as  convent,  Roman  Catholic  in 
government,  is  further  down,  upon  tlio  Tenth  avenue  ; 
and  the  pretentious  residence,  with  gilded  dome,  of  the 
editor  of  the  New-York  Herakl,  James  Gordon  Bennett, 
commonly  attracts  the  curiosity  of  a  stranger  as  we  go 
nearer  the  eastern  shore.  Before  leaving  the  Heights,  the 
visitor  will  also  wish  to  examine  the  spot  whose  former 
occupation  gives  name  to  the  mountain  or  ridge  upon 
which  are  all  these  places — the  old  Fort  Washington. 
This  extended  its  earth-works  quite  to  the  river ;  but  the 
citadel  stood  on  the  crown  of  Mount  '7ashington,  now 
called  Washington  Heights,  the  most  elevated  land  on  the 
island,  overlooking  the  country  in  every  direction,  and 
having  in  view  the  river  from  the  Highlands  to  the  har- 
bor of  the  city  below.  The''  exact  location  was  between 
One  Hundred  and  Eighty-first  and  One  Hundred  and 
Eighty-sixth  streets,  and  about  Eleventh  avenue.  The 
Asylum  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  stands  nearly  upon  the 
spot,  and  the  whole  vicinity  is  occupied  with  charming 
villas.  The  only  ren^ains  of  the  Revolutionary  fortifica- 
tions visible  are  in  the  earth- works  on  the  river  at  Jeffrey's 
Hook. 

While  at  the  Heights,  one  must  run  over  to  the  Harlem 
side  of  the  island.  High  Bridge  is  well  known  to  every 
one  as  a  magnificent  viaduct  1450  feet  long,  114  high, 
transporting  the  Croton  River  water  in  huge  mains  over 
the  Harlem  (more  properly  Muscoota)  River,  two  miles 
above  Harlem  Bridge,  at  One  Hundred  and  Thirtietli 


LAKES,    IlIVERS,   AND  MOUNTAINS, 


!<   ' 


street.  Morris  House,  on  the  cliff  ovcrhanji^inff  the  river, 
is  a  fine  old  mansion,  famous  as  the  residence  of  Aaron 
Burr's  widow,  better  known  as  Madame  Jumel,  her  former 
husband's  name.  The  mansion  was  erected  in  1755  by 
Roger  Morris,  General  Washington's  successful  (Tory)  ri- 
val  in  a  suit  for  the  hand  of  Miss  Mary  Philipse.  A  fine 
view  of  the  vicinity  may  bo  had  cither  from  the  house  or 
the  grounds  behind  it. 

About  a  mile  inland,  on  the  Kingsbridgo  road,  half-way 
between  the  two  rivers,  is  the  Grange,  the  house  of  Gen. 
Alexander  Hamilton,  standing  secluded  at  some  distance 
from  the  road.  Near  the  house  is  a  group  of  13  trees 
planted  by  the  General,  and  named  after  the  original  States ; 
the  one  named  South-Carolina  alone  grew  up  crooked  1 

Spuyt  den  Duyvel  Creek  is  a  veiy  pretty  little  stream, 
though  too  trifling  to  be  the  dividing  line,  as  it  is,  of  the 
great  city  from  Westchester  county.  It  takes  its  name 
from  the  famous  attempt  of  Stuyvesant's  trumpeter,  An- 
tony Van  Corlear,  to  swim  across  it  en  spuyt  den  Duyvel — 
"  in  spite  of  the  Devil  !'*  The  latter  personage  triumphed, 
and  has  commonly  been  considered  master  of  the  situa- 
tion, not  to  say  of  the  city,  ever  since  I  The  creek  runs 
in  a  north-westerly  direction  from  the  Muscoota  (Harlem) 
to  the  Hudson  River.  Kingsbridge  is  a  small  wooden 
bridge  over  the  creek,  at  its  head,  where  there  is  some- 
what of  a  village.  It  was  built  in  1693,  and  was  the  only 
means  of  approaching  Manhattan  (New- York)  from  the 
mainland.  Here  there  was  much  fighting  during  the 
Revolution,  and  from  its  northern  end  to  the  Croton  River 
the  country  was  so  unsafe  that  neither  Whig  nor  Tory 
could  live  safely,  whence  the  name  of  the  Neutral  Ground. 
At  the  northern  border  of  it  we  shall  meet  with  tha  inter- 
esting history  of  Major  Andre. 


LAKES,   KIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


Over  tlio  (Hudson)  river,  the  Northern  Hallway  of  Now. 
Jersey  run;*  back  into  the  country  beyond  tUo  cliffs,  mak- 
ing its  most  important  calls  at  Fort  Leo,  Enjflewood,  and 
Piermont.  Engk'wood  boasts  tho  Palisade  House,  a  largo 
hotel,  where  many  summer  boarders  find  delightful  es- 
cape from  the  city.  Fort  Leo  is  a  village  grandly  situated 
on  the  southern  summit  of  the  Palisades,  5300  feet  above 
the  river,  and  chiefly  interesting  from  that  fact.  These 
splendid  cliffs,  or  columns,  beginning  at  Fort  Leo,  about 
opposite  One  Hundred  and  Sixtieth  street  in  tho  city,  ex- 
tend some  20  miles  up  the  river,  as  far  as  the  Tappan  Zee, 
(Sea,)  a  broad  basin  at  Tarrytown.  More  imposing,  con- 
sidering their  distance  and  height,  than  the  rocky  banks 
of  the  Saguenay,  they  form  a  magnificent  contrast  to  the 
quiet  beauty  of  the  opposite  shore.  The  formation  is 
trap,  much  resembling  the  columns  of  Fingal's  Cave  and 
the  Giant  Causeway  ;  but  tho  cliff  hardly  varies  from  the 
perpendicular,  and  extends  unbrokenly  until  it  terminates 
as  abruptly  as  it  began.  Tho  height  of  the  Palisades  is 
300  to  500  feet. 

Past  New- York  (Manhattan)  Island,  the  next  best  stop- 
ping-place is  Yonkers,  where  is  the  Getty  House,  W.  H. 
Doty,  proprietor — always  open.  The  village  is  an  ancient 
settlement  at  the  mouth  of  the  Neperah,  or  Sawmill  River, 
w^as  recently  incorporated,  and  is  a  favorite  suburban  home 
of  New-Yorkers.  The  chief  attraction  to  visitors  is  the 
ancient  Philipse  Manor,  built  in  1683  and  1745,  now  occu- 
pied by  the  Hon.  W.  W.  Woodworth,  who  makes  visitors 
welcome.  Beautiful  Mary  Philipse,  tho  early  love  of 
General  Washington,  was  born  and  lived  here.  It 
was  at  Yonkers  landing  that  Hudson  found  the  strong 
tidal  current  from  the  north  that  revived  his  hopes 
of  a  northern  passage  to  India.     Font  Hill,  1|  miles 


1 


0 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


down,  18  a  mannlon  built  in  En^liHli  cnHtcllatcd  form 
by  Edwin  ForruHt,  tra^ttlian,  for  a  sumni<»r  rtJBidcnco, 
In  1838.  HiH  dreams  of  domestic  liappiness  were  ])erm it- 
ted  realizati(m  hero  with  his  wifo  till  1844,  when  ho 
revisited  Enjjfland  and  became  involved  with  Ma- 
cready.  This  resulted  in  the  famous  "  Astor  Place  riots" 
in  New- York  City,  1848,  and  domestic  troubles  and  divorce 
to  poor  Forrest.  Tho  Roman  Catholic  Sisters  of  Charity 
(Mount  Saint  Vincent)  have  purchased  and  preatly  added 
to  tho  buildings  for  a  convent.  Dobb's  Ferry,  (which  read- 
ers of  the  January  Putnam  will  easily  recognize,)  orij^i- 
nally  Weec-qucs-guck,  (Indian  for  "  place  of  tho  bark-ket- 
tle,") is  5  miles  north  of  Yonkers,  on  tho  railway,  and  is 
notable  for  the  Livingston  Mansion,  now  owned  by  Ste- 
phen Archer,  a  Friend,  where  Washington  met,  in  1783, 
the  "  Civil  Governor  of  New- York,"  George  Clinton,  and 
the  British  commander,  Sir  Guy  Carleton,  to  confer  con- 
cerning tho  evacuation  of  the  city.  At  this  point  in  tho 
river  is  the  most  picturesque  portion  of  the  Palisades. 

The  passenger  by  boat  will  stop  at  Piermont,  on  the 
west  bank,  between  Tarrytown  and  Dobb's  Ferry.  Irving- 
ton  is  directly  opposite  to  it.  The  Erie  Railway  formerly 
made  Piermont  its  eastern  terminus  ;  but  since  New-Jer- 
sey has  admitted  that  great  corporation  to  privileges  on  its 
soil,  only  the  freight  terminus  remains  here.  The  river  at 
this  point  is  3  miles  wide,  and  still  retains  the  old  Dutch 
name  of  Tappan  Zee.  The  village  of  Tappan,  where 
Andre  was  tried  and  executed,  is  3  miles  out  of  Piermont, 

Tarrytown  must  be  the  traveler's  point  of  departure  for 
the  region  made  classic  by  Irving.  Every  body  knows 
what  there  is  of  interest  hereabout,  and  will  need  no  as- 
sistance from  us.  Andre's  monument,  on  the  spot  of  his 
arrest.  Van  Wart's  monument,  at  Greensburg,  3  miles 


MhllMMl 


9 
f 


LAKES,   RIVERS, 


AND   MOUNTAINS. 


east,  ami  tlio  moniimont  to  the  tlirco  captorfl,  ncrr  tho  Po- 
cantc'co,  am  tlm  clikof  Uovolutioaary  rDiiiiiulcri*.  Ono  milo 
below  Irvinffton  is  Nevin,  tho  eHtate  of  (km.  Aloxaiuler 
Hamilton's  cldewt  Boa.  James,  whoro  may  bo  soon  tho  li- 
brary, and  a  portrait  by  Stuart,  of  tin;  illiiHtriouH  olHcer. 
Not  far  (liHtant  is  Mr.  OHtinet's  residonco,  built  in  French 
Bty-lo,  of  Caen  stono,  and  08t<^eincd  superior,  externally  and 
internally,  ^o  any  other  dwelling  on  the  Hudson.  The 
owner  is  a  weuitliy  merchant  of  New- York.  Another  re- 
markably fine  mansion  near  Tarrytown  is  tlio  Paulding 
Manor,  built  of  white  marble  in  the  pointed  Tudor  style, 
and  exceedingly  jncturesquo  in  effect. 

The  principal  points  of  interest  regarding  Washington 
Irvirg's  home  and  writings  are  :  Sunnyside,  his  residence, 
with  'ts  grounds,  on  Wolfe rt  Acker's  Rust,  3  miles  below 
Tarry  I  own  ;  Sleepy  Hollow,  just  above  tho  old  brick  and 
stone  Dutch  church,  on  the  Pocanteco,  where  Ichabod  lost 
his  wits  ;  and  tho  grave  of  tho  great  Irving,  behind  tho 
old  church,  in  full  view  of  the  Tappan  Zee. 

At  Nyack,  a  charming  village  on  the  west  shore  a  little 
above  tho  point  opposite  Tarrytown,  (ferry  from  the  latter 
place,)  the  Smithsonian  House  affords  entertainment, 
whence  a  short  drive  brings  the  tourist  to  Rockland  Lake, 
150  feet  above  the  river,  half  a  mile  long  and  three  fourths 
wide,  noted  for  its  ice  trade.  The  Hackensack  River  car- 
ries the  waters  of  this  lake  to  Newark  Bay,  near  New- 
York.  On  the  other  side  of  the  river  there  is  the  State 
prison  at  Sing  Sing,  which  the  tourist  will  hardly  care  to 
visit ;  and  at  Croton  Point,  36  miles  from  New- York,  he 
will  find  the  mouth  of  Croton  (originally  Kitchawan)  River, 
and  may  profitably  visit  the  artificial  lake  from  which  the 
purified  waters  of  the  stream  supply  the  citizens  of  Man- 
hattan.   Dr.  UnderhilFs  graperies  are  located  at  Croton, 


8 


LAKES,    RIVERS,   AND  MOUNTAINS. 


I; 


:      I*    ! 


ii> 


and  are  wortli  visiting.  Recrossing  the  river  ard  ascend- 
ing a  few  miles,  we  are  at  Stony  Point,  made  forever  fa- 
mous by  "  Mad  Anthony  Wayne,"  in  1779.  The  whole 
point  is  a  mass  of  granite  rock,  with  patches  of  evergreen 
and  shrubs,  except  on  the  northern  side,  where  is  a  black 
cliff  of  magnetic  ore,  not  worth  quarrying. 

We  are  now  rapidly  approaching  Peekskill,  the  second 
of  the  chief  stations,  (Yonkers  first,)  on  the  railway,  43 
miles  up.  The  river  here  becomes  3  miles  broad,  form- 
ing Haverstraw  Bay,  which  extends  as  far  north  as  the 
Dunderberg,  a  grand,  boulder-like  mountain,  ("thunder 
mountain,")  about  a  mile  above  the  town,  on  the  west 
bank.  This  and  Anthony's  Nose,  opposite,  are  two  of  the 
finest  elevations  of  the  whole  river-bank.  The  railway 
tunnel  under  Anthony's  Nose  is  one  of  the  most  interest- 
ing objects  in  itself  and  its  vicinity  which  the  rapid  tra- 
veler may  enjoy.  Anthony's  Nose  is  a  rocky  promontory 
which  rises  to  the  height  of  1128  feet,  the  base  of  which 
has  been  tunneled  by  the  railway  a  length'  of  200  feet. 
Two  miles  above  is  Sugar  Loaf  Mountain,  with  an  eleva- 
tion of  865  feet.  Near  by,  and  reaching  far  out  into  the 
river,  is  a  sandy  bluff,  on  which  Fort  Independence  once 
stood.  Further  on  is  Beverly  Island,  and  in  the  extreme 
distance  Bear  Mountain.  At  Peekskill  itself,  the  Van  Cort- 
landt  Mansion,  once  Gen.  Washington's  headquarters,  the 
monument  to  Paulding,  (one  of  Andre's  captors,)  and 
Henry  Ward  Beecher's  residence,  are  the  chief  things  to 
see.  Mr.  Beecher  has  a  farm  of  about  30  acres,  and  every 
farmer  in  the  neighborhood  is  puzzled  to  know  how  he 
gets  so  much  out  of  it.  It  produces  an  enormous  quantity  of 
vegetables,  most  of  which  are  sold  in  the  village,  and  his 
neighbors  say  it  nets  him  about  $5000  a  year.  It  stands  on 
the  slope  of  one  of  the  hills  that  stretch  up  from  the  Hud- 


LAKES,   RIVERS,    AND   MOUNTAINS. 


9 


son  River,  and  is  one  of  the  smartest  and  prettiest  houses, 
though  decidedly  antique  in  architecture,  that  one  could 
wish  to  live  in.  Mr.  Beecher's  family  reside  here  from  the 
beginning  of  summer  till  about  the  middle  of  the  fall,  and 
the  head  of  the  establishment  spends  about  half  of  the 
same  time. 

liake  Mohegan  is  only  4  miles  distant,  and  Lake  Malio- 
pac  about  14.  Another  lake,  Oskewanna,  is  4  miles  away. 
There  was  only  one  hotel  at  Lake  Mohegan  last  season, 
but  there  are  several  boarding-houses  in  the  neighbor- 
hood, and  most  of  them  are  pretty  well  filled.  There  is 
excellent  fishing  at  Oskewanna,  and  parties  from  New 
York  ride  out  from  Peekskill  every  day,  spend  a  few  hours 
coaxing  pickerel  from  their  cool  retreat,  and  return  next 
day.  Most  of  the  visitors  at  Lake  Mahopac  run  out  by 
the  Harlem  Railway. 

Close  by  the  Dunderberg,  just  below  the  Brocken  Kill, 
lies  lona  Island,  (300  acres,  200  being  marsh,)  rendered  no- 
table of  late  by  Dr.  C.  W.  Grant's  nursery  and  graperies. 
This  island  is  upon  the  dividing  line  of  temperature.  The 
sea-breeze  stops  here,  and  its  effects  are  visible  upon  vege- 
tation. The  season  is  two  weeks  earlier  than  at  Newburg, 
only  14  miles  north,  above  the  Highlands.  The  width  of 
the  river  between  the  island  and  Anthony's  Nose  is  only 
three  eighths  of  a  mile — less  than  at  any  other  point  below 
Albany  ;  and  the  tidal  currents  here,  in  the  deep  water, 
are  so  swift  that  this  part  of  the  river  is  called  the  Race. 
It  is  about  at  this  point  that  the  river  takes  a  great  bend 
to  the  north-east,  recovering  from  the  western  bend  by 
which  it  leaves  the  bay  at  Peck's  Kill,  and  continues  in  a 
narrower  channel  till  we  pass  Cold  Spring,  where  it  turns 
again  to  the  east  slightly.  The  last  change  of  direction 
is  caused  by  Weat-Point,  a  bold  promontory  of  great 


10 


LAKES,   El  VERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


i.i 


h 


iF 


attractions,  both  naturally,  aesthetically,  and  socially.  This 
famous  resort  is  reached  directly  by  boat,  and  by  ferry 
from  the  railway  st.ation  of  Garrison's,  51  miles  from  New- 
York  City.  The  Highland  House  at  Garrison's  accommo- 
dates 50  boarders  j  reached  by  stage.  Cozzen«'s,  1  mile 
below  the  Point,  is  the  principal  hotel ;  excellent,  but  lim- 
ited (200)  in  accommodations.  Roe's  Hotel  is  at  the  extreme 
north  end  of  the  plateau.  Both  houses  command  magnifi- 
cent views.  Cozzens's  is  nearest  to  Buttermilk  Falls — a 
small  cascade  3  ixiiles  above  Fort  Montgomery,  where  Sir 
Henry  Clinton,  in  1777,  successfully  attacked  and  drove 
out  the  brothers,  Generals  George  and  James  Clinton, 
hoping  thereby  to  save  Burgoyne's  surrender  at  Saratoga. 
The  falls  are  100  feet  high,  of  a  milk-w^hite  color  when 
swollen,  whence  tlieir  name.  They  are  situate  on  Sinni  ■ 
pink  Lake,  at  the  foot  of  Bear  Mountain — the  lake  so  in- 
carnadined at  the  battles  named  above  as  to  be  otherwise 
known  as  Bloody  Pond. 

The  best  months  in  which  to  visit  West-Point  are  July 
and  August,  not  only  for  viewing  the  river  scenery,  which 
is  extremely  luxuriant  at  that  season,  but  on  account  of 
the  military  exercises,  better  known  as  "  exhibitions,"  in 
which  all  the  cadets  join.  The  Military  Academy,  at  the 
extreme  north  end  of  the  promontory,  Flirtation  Walk,  a 
romantic  shaded  path  cut  in  the  rocky  hillside,  leading  to 
Kosciusko's  garden  and  monument,  and  numberless  other 
minor  attractions,  render  the  point  one  to  be  long  remem- 
bered with  pleasure  by  its  visitors. 

Cro'nest,  more  commonly  known  as  Kidd's  Plug  Cliff, 
on  the  western  bank,  casts  its  broad  shadow  upon  us  as  we 
continue  our  voyage  up  from  West-Point.  This  is  one  of 
the  highest  mountains  found  in  the  Highland  group — 1428 
feet.    Rodman  Drake's  Culprit  Fay  has  its  scene  here. 


A 


■OM 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


11 


;.   This 
)y  ferry 
n  New- 
commo- 
1  mile 
)ut  lim- 
3xtreme 
magnifi- 
Falls— a 
lere  Sir 
d  drove 
Clinton, 
aratoga. 
or  wlien 
n  Sinni- 
£6  so  in- 
tlierwise 

are  July 
,  which 
lount  of 
|.ons,"  in 
',  at  the 
IWalk,  a 
lading  to 
jss  other 
remem- 

|ug  Cliff. 

18  as  we 
Is  one  of 
jp— 1428 

le  here. 


George  P.  Morris  lived  at  Urdercliff,  a  terrace  of  Bull  Hill, 
opposite  Cro'nest,  and  wrote  about  it.  Cold  Spring  is  the 
railway  station  for  both  these  points,  the  cliff  where  Kidd 
"  plugged"  away  bis  treasures  being  reached  by  row-boat. 

The  village  of  Cornwall  is  on  the  same  side  of  the  river 
with  Cro'nest,  in  Orange  county.  It  is  a  favorite  place  of 
summer  resort ;  hotel.  Linden  Park,  kept  by  C.  H.  Ring. 
Idlewild,  the  residence  of  the  late  N.  P.  Willis,  is  a  little 
north  of  the  village.  That  genial  poet  has  done  the  resi- 
dents of  this  vicinity  much  good  service,  like  Dr.  Hitchcock 
at  the  hills  about  Amherst,  Mass.,  in  substituting  Indian  or 
poetic  names  for  the  barbaric  terms  often  covering  these 
splendid  cliffs. 

Beyond  Cold  Spring,  on  the  east  bank  of  the  river,  the 
HighliiUd  range  is  continued  in  the  jagged  precipices  of 
the  Breakneck  and  Beacon  hills,  in  height  respectively 
1187  and  1685  feet.  These  mountains  are  among  the 
most  commanding  features  of  the  river  scenery.  Mr. 
Lossing  remarks  of  this  region,  "  I  rowed  to  the  middle  of 
the  river  in  the  direction  of  Cold  Spring  village,  (from 
Newburg,)  and  obtained  a  fine  view  of  the  Highland  en- 
trance to  Newburg  Bay.  On  the  left,  in  shadow  [sunset] 
stood  the  Storm  King,  on  the  right  was  rugged  Break- 
neck, with  its  neighbor,  round  Little  Beacon  Hill,  and  be- 
tween was  Pollopell's  Island,  a  solitary  rocky  eminence 
rising  from  the  river  a  mile  north  of  them.  Beyond  these 
were  seen  the  expanse  of  Newburg  Bay,  the  village,  the 
cultivated  country  beyond,  and  the  dim,  pale  peaks  of  the 
Katzbergs,  [Catskills,]  almost  GO  miles  distant.  This  view 
is  always  admired  by  travelers  as  one  of  the  most  agree- 
able from  New- York  to  Albany." 

Newburg  lies  on  the  western  bank  of  the  river,  nearly 
opposite  Fishkill,  with  wliich  communication  is  had  by 


!    I 


i   I 


12 


LAKES,    RIVERS,   AND  MOUNTAINS. 


ferry.  It  is  tlie  youngest  city  in  the  State,  and  has  a  popu- 
lation of  15,000.  The  hotels  are :  United  States,  by  H. 
Blake,  opposite  the  landing ;  the  Powelton,  same  propri- 
etor, 1|  miles  from  the  landing,  a  quarter-mile  from  the 
river.  The  future  Boston,  Atlantic,  and  Erie  Railway  will 
have  its  western  terminus  "liere,  and  the  Company  are 
endeavoring  to  obtain  privilege  to  bridge  the  river  here, 
that  they  may  connect  westward  :  the  road  now  ends  at 
Waterbury,  Ct.,  and  is  known  as  the  Providence,  Hartford, 
and  Fishkill.  Newburg  is  the  scene  of  many  of  the 
incidents  in  Cooper's  Spy;  but  the  tourist  will  find  it 
most  interesting  in  the  fine  landscape  and  the  historical 
reminiscences  at  Washington's  head-quarters,  the  old  Has- 
brouck  Mansion,  built  1750,  now  owned  by  the  State.  The 
Revolutionary  army  was  disbanded  here  June  23d,  1783. 
In  the  spring  of  that  year,  at  this  place,  a  revolt  against 
Congress  by  the  soldiers  was  quieted  by  General  Wash- 
ington, after  he  had  been  offered  the  power  and  title  of 
king,  with  such  result  as  the  reader  may  imagine.  The 
old  mansion  stands  in  the  south  part  of  the  village. 

Two  miles  north-east  of  Fishkill  Landing  is  the  Ver- 
planck  House,  interesting  as  having  once  been  the  head- 
quarters of  Baron  Steuben,  and  the  place  in  which  the 
famous  Society  of  the  Cincinnati  was  organized  in  1783. 

Beyond  this,  the  first  point  of  interest  is  New- Hamburg 
Tunnel,  an  excavation  through  a  rocky  promontory,  800 
feet  long.  All  over  this  bluff,  including  the  roof  of 
the  tunnel,  the  arbor  mice,  commonly  but  inaccurately 
called  the  white  cedar,  grows  most  abundantly  and 
beautifully.  Loudon,  the  English  horticulturist,  deems 
these  some  of  the  finest  specimens  of  this  shrub  in  the 
world.  They  grow  of  all  sizes  and  most  perfect  in  form  ; 
but  the  most  beautiful  are  those  of  6  to  10  feet  in  height, 


— . — ^- 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


13 


has  a  popu- 
ates,  by  H. 
ime  propri- 
le  fromtlio 
Railway  will 
ompany  are 
e  river  here, 
now  ends  at 
.ce,  Hartford, 
nany  of  the 
will  find  it 
lie  historical 
,  the  old  Has- 
e  State.    The 
Lne  23d,  1783. 
revolt  against 
eneral  Wash- 
r  and  title  of 
nagine.    The 
tillage. 

g  is  the  Ver- 
een  the  head- 
in  which  the 
5ed  in  1783. 
^ewHamburg 

omontory,  800 
f  the  roof  of 
inaccurately 
undantly  and 
llturist,  deems 
shrub  in  the 
srfect  in  form ; 
■eet  in  height, 


whoso  branches  shoot  out  close  to  the  ground,  forming 
perfect  cones,  and  exhibiting  nothing  to  the  eye  but  deli- 
cate sprays  and  brig'it  green  leaves.  The  traveler  can  not 
fail  to  have  his  attention  drawn  to  these  beautiful  shrubs 
from  the  dock  of  his  steamboat.  Next  to  New-Hamburg 
comes  ^Milton  Landing  on  the  railway,  a  viUage  which, 
with  Marlborough  lying  further  back,  is  noted  for  vast 
supplies  of  raspberries,  wholly  employing  one  steamboat 
during  the  season,  for  the  New- York  City  market.  At 
Milton,  Tlicopliilus  Anthony,  a  blacksmith,  helped  to  forge 
the  chain  which  was  stretched  across  the  river  at  Fort 
Montgomery  by  the  patriots  in  1777.  His  grandsons,  the 
Messrs.  Gill,  sustain  a  mill  on  his  place,  by  the  old  stone 
mansion. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  foaming  Winnakee  Creek,  75  miles 
above  New- York  City,  and  the  same  distance  from  Troy,  a 
pretty  Mohegan  legend  relates  that  a  young  Delaware 
chief,  with  his  bride,  found  a  "  safe  and  pleasant  harbor  " 
from  pursuing  Hurons;  whence  the  name,  which  is  in 
Indian,  Apokeepsinck,  now  written  Poughkeepsle.  There 
are  on  record  43  different  spellings  of  this  name.  The  city 
was  settled  by  the  Dutch  in  1705,  contains  17,000  people, 
and  is  the  third  important  station  on  the  road  to  Albany. 
A  notoriously  poor  restaurant  at  the  depot  affords  edibles 
and  potables  during  the  "  ten  minutes  for  refreshments." 
The  city  is  partly  upon  a  hill-side,  sloping  to  the  river, 
but  chiefly  on  an  elevated  plain,  back  of  which  is  College 
Hill,  whose  summit  is  500  feet  above  the  town.  Here  is 
the  College  Hill  House,  standing  on  the  Hyde  Park  road, 
2  miles  from  the  centre  of  the  town  :  a  first-class,  admi- 
rable summer  hotel,  just  opened,  with  rooms  for  50  board- 
ers. The  Morgan  House  is  a  first-class  hotel  on  the  main 
street.  Within  a  few  miles'  ride  are  Locust  Grove,  residence 


I 


i  k 


I  I 


'*     ii 


?;' 


i  I 


14 


LAKES,    RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


of  Professor  S.  F.  B.  Morse,  author  of  the  elcctro-majynetic- 
telerrraph — a  beautifully  embowered  villa ;  Vassar  College 
for  young-  ladies,  a  splendid  and  most  complete  institution, 
admirable  and  peculiar  in  architecture,  and  the  munificent 
gift  of  Mr.  Matthew  Vassar,  of  Poughkeepsie  ;  the  famous 
"  Business  Colleges  "  of  Poughkeepsie,  and  the  Hyde  Park 
road  and  village,  5  miles  distant.  Benson  J.  Lossing  re- 
sides here. 

llondout  is  opposite  Rhinebeck,  which  is  90  miles  from 
New- York  City.  It  stands  on  the  Rondout  (Redoubt)  Creek, 
2^^  miles  up  which  is  the  Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal. 
The  coal  business  makes  Rondout  one  of  the  most  active 
places  on  the  Hudson.  Rhinebeck  was  named  in  honor 
of  the  great  river  of  the  country  whence  came  William 
Beekman,  the  first  settler,  a  sort  of  Hudson  River  Penn,  in 
1G47.  The  mansion  is  one  of  the  best  specimens  of  an  old 
Dutch  homestead  to  be  found  in  the  Hudson  valley  ;  and 
several  other  fine  residences  attract  the  curiosity  of 
tourists.  Exchange  Hotel  affords  good  accommodations 
at  Rhinebeck. 

Saugerties  and  Tivoli,  the  one  on  the  west  and  the  other 
on  the  east  bank  of  the  river,  next  attract  our  attention. 
Saugerties  is  a  picturesque  and  prosperous  manufacturing 
village,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Esopus  Creek.  Rokeby,  the 
estate  of  William  B.  Astor,  son  of  John  Jacob  Astor,  was 
built  by  his  father-in-law.  General  John  Armstrong,  who 
wrote  the  addresses  to  the  Continental  army  which  came 
so  near  producing  a  revolt,  as  we  saw  just  now  a^  New- 
burg.  The  place  is  less  than  5  m.iles  below  Tivoli. 
Near  it  is  Saint  Stephen's  College,  a  training  school  pre- 
paratory to  the  General  Theological  (Episcopal)  Seminary 
in  Chelsea,  New- York  City,  and  established  by  Mr.  John 
Bard,  at  an  expense  of  $G0,00O. 


■— (; 


:o-maj?netic- 
fisar  College 
!  institution, 
3  munificent 
the  famous 
3  Hyde  Park 
.  Lossiug  re- 

0  miles  from 
doul)t)  Creek, 
udson  Canal. 
3  most  active 
led  in  lionor 
ame  William 
liver  Penn,  in  ' 
lens  of  an  old 

1  valley  ;  and 
curiosity    of 

iommodations 

and  tlie  other 
our  attention, 
nanufacturing 

Bokeby,  the 
;ob  Astor,  was 
•mstrong,  who 
ly  which  came 

now  a^-  New- 
below  Tivoli. 
Dg  school  pre- 
,pal)  Seminary 
i  by  Mr.  John 


I  ■ 


ii 


'i  H 


^.1. 


LAKES,    RIVEUS,    AND    MOUNTAINS. 


15 


A  little  above  Tivoli,  Clermont,  the  former  residence  of 
Robert  11.  Livingston,  the  first  Cliancellor  of  the  State  of 
New- York,  may  be  seen  at  Maiden  on  tlio  opposite  side  of 
tho  river.  Besides  the  eminent  public  services  of  the 
Chaicellor,  his  fame  is  connected  with  that  of  Kobert 
Fulton  in  the  introduction  of  steam  navigation.  It  will 
be  remembered  that  the  Hudson  River  boasts  tho  honor 
of  having  borne  upon  its  bosom  the  first  successful  steam- 
boat in  the  world,  and  it  is  at  this  point  that  we  most  fitly 
recall  that  interesting  chapter.  Livingston  furnished  Ful- 
ton tlie  means  to  carry  on  his  experiments,  and  the 
first  successful  steamboat  trip  was  made  by  the  Clermont 
(named  in  honor  of  Livingston's  residence)  in  the  autumn 
of  1807.  She  reached  Albany  in  32  hours  from  New- York 
on  this  first  trip ;  and  thus  navigation  by  steam,  which 
had  previously  been  considered  a  wild  and  chimerical  pro- 
ject, became  an  established  fact.  Chancellor  Livingston 
died  in  1813. 

Eleven  miles  north  of  Tivoli  is  Catskill  Station,  where 
passengers  on  the  railway  take  ferry  for  Catskill.  The 
portion  of  the  river  included  in  this  region  will  be  found 
fully  described  under  the  title,  The  Catskill  Mountains. 

The  city  of  Hudson,  fourth  and  last  chief  station  on  the 
railway,  is  1^5  miles  from  New- York  City.  It  is  an  im- 
portant railway  point,  being  the  western  terminus  of  the 
Hudson  and  Boston  Railway,  which  connects  Boston  with 
this  point  by  the  Western  road  to  Chatham,  about  20  miles. 
On  the  other  side  of  the  river,  also,  the  "Athens  cut  oft*" 
is  a  new  extension  of  the  New- York  Central  Railway,  by 
which  the  Castleton  Bar  in  the  river,  as  well  as  some  of 
the  distance  between  Hudson  and  Albany  is  avoided,  going 
direct  to  Schenectady.  There  is  little  or  nothing  of  inte- 
rest to  the  tourist  by  the  river  bank  here;  the  shores, 


1/  if 


16 


LAKES,    RIVEUS,    AND   MOUNTAINS 


I     . 


J 


(except  at  tlio  Catskilla)  have  lost  tlicir  bol(lnc5S!^,  and  aro 
henceforth  generally  low  and  uninteresting.  Hy  taking 
the  cars  for  Canaan,  however,  on  the  Hudson  and  Boston 
road,  the  tourist  will,  in  little  over  an  hour,  be  set  down  at 
the  railway  station,  whence  carriages  will  convey  him  to  Co- 
lumbia Hall,  at  the  famous  Lebanon  Springs,  and  Shaker 
village.    (See  article  entitled  Lebanon  SrHiNOs.) 

Coxsackie  Station  deserves  notice  as  a  notable  shad-fish- 
ing place.  The  shad  aro  the  most  important  fish  of  the 
Hudson,  and  caught  in  such  immense  numbers  as  to  make 
them  cheap  dishes  for  the  poor  man's  table.  They  enter 
the  Hudson  in  immense  numbers  toward  the  close  of 
March  or  the  beginning  of  April,  and  ascend  to  the  head 
of  tide-water  to  spawn.  It  is  while  on  their  passage  up 
that  the  greater  number  and  best-conditioned  are  caught, 
several  hundred  being  sometimes  taken  in  a  single  "  catch." 
They  generally  descend  the  river  at  the  close  of  May,  when 
they  are  called  "  back  shad,"  and  are  so  lean  and  almost 
worthless,  that  "  thin  as  a  June  shad  "  is  a  common  epithet 
applied  to  lean  persons.  The  sturgeon  is  also  caught  on 
the  Hudson  in  large  numbers  at  most  of  the  fishing  sta- 
tions. The  most  important  of  these  are  in  the  vicinity  of 
Hyde  Park,  and  Low  Point,  near  Poughkeepsie.  These 
fish  are  sold  in  such  quantities  in  Albany  that  they  have 
been  called,  in  derision,  "  Albany  beef."  They  vary  in  size 
from  2  to  8  feet  long,  and  in  weight  from  100  to  450 
pounds.  The  catch  commences  in  April  and  continues 
until  the  latter  end  of  August.  The  flesh  is  used  for  food 
by  some,  and  the  oil  that  is  extracted  is  considered  equal 
to  the  best  sperm  as  an  illuminator.  The  tourist  may  often 
see  them  leaping  several  feet  from  the  water  when  chasing 
some  smaller  fish.  Bass  and  herring  are  also  caught  in 
almost  every  part  of  the  river. 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


17 


,  and  aro 
3y  taking 
nd  Boston 
»t  down  at 
liiin  to  Co- 
ld Shaker 

IS.) 

3  shad-fisli- 
fisli  of  the 
as  to  make 
They  enter 
e  close  of 
;o  the  head 
passage  up 
are  caught, 
rle  "  catch." 
May,  when 
and  almost 
on  epithet 
caught  on 
fishing  sta- 
vicinity  of 
,sie.    These 
|t  they  have 
vary  in  size 
100  to  450 
Id  continues 
ised  for  food 
|dered  equal 
t  may  often 
|hen  chasing 
io  caught  in 


Kindorhook,  125  niilcs  from  New- York,  25  from  Troy, 
was  so  named  {Kinder' 8  hoeck,  "  Children's  Point ")  hecauso 
its  first  settlor  had  a  very  numerous  progeny.  President 
Martin  Van  Buren  spent  the  last  years  of  his  life  at  his 
country-seat,  3  miles  south,  calU^d  Lindenwold. 

Castleton  is  the  horribilc  locus  of  the  river ;  the  ovcrslaifgh, 
as  tlio  Dutch  mariners  called  the  hidden  sand-bar,  is,  at  low 
tide,  an  effectual  damper  on  the  enthusiasm  of  the  tourist, 
as  it  is  provocative  of  profanity  to  the  unlearned.  There 
is  a  bad  sand-bar  in  the  river,  and  the  multitudinous  efforts 
to  destroy  it  have  all  failed,  because  the  next  freshet  from 
the  mountains  will  always  bring  down  mud  and  sand 
enough  to  cover  up  the  last  excavation.  The  place  is  11 
miles  below  Albany. 

The  city  of  Albany,  political  capital  of  the  State  of  New- 
York,  presents  an  imposing  appearance  as  you  approach  it 
from  the  south.  Standing  upon  the  slope  of  a  hill  which 
rises  from  the  flats  to  a  height  of  220  feet,  it  has  not  failed 
to  give  to  its  finest  buildings  the  full  benefit  of  position. 
Among  these  the  traveler  will  particularly  note  in  his 
view  the  Capitol,  the  City  Hall,  and  Dudley  Observatory. 
There  is  no  good  view  from  the  city  to  the  river,  as  most 
of  the  country  about  this  point  is  very  flat  and  uninterest- 
ing. Albany  is  mainly  interesting  to  a  traveler  as  afford- 
ing an  example  of  how  political  (and  nothing  else)  a  centre 
of  government  may  become ;  but  its  Dutch  history  will 
also  prove  very  entertaining.  The  city  most  nearly  ap. 
proaches  the  cities  of  Holland,  in  both  architecture,  nar- 
row  streets,  aristocracy,  and  even  language,  of  any  city  on 
this  continent.  The  old  Dutch  families  treasure  up  their 
mother  tongue  with  great  zeal,  the  Dutch  language  having 
been  until  quite  a  recent  date  spoken  considerably  in  cer- 
tain circles.    The  name  of  the  city  was  changed  from  Bever- 


I 


13 


I.AKHS,    lUVKliS,    AND    MOUNTAIXS. 


if        ' 


i 


'  li 


I  , 


h 


wyvk  to  All):iiiy  at  tlin  sanu)  tiin(;  tliat  Nt'W-York  took  itH 
now  titlo,  (ill  plii('(!  of  Xow-AiiiHterclam,)  botli  cilicH  bcinjj 
nniiuid  for  oiio  iiuui,  Kiiij?  James  II.,  thou  Duko  of  both 
York  and  Albany. 

Th(!  river  abov(3  Albany  v/ill  liardly  interest  the  touriHt 
until  he  eomes  to  that  portion  of  it  notabh)  for  its  falln  and 
other  featiiren  of  a  mountain  brook.  The  now  brid;^(^  at 
Troy,  nearly  a  mih?  in  l(;n(jfth,  will  attract  liis  attention,  aa 
also  the  Uoman  Catholic  Provincial  Seminary  of  divinity 
for  New- York  and  New-En (rland,  on  Mount  Ida,  opposite 
Troy;  but  these  are  rather  points  of  interest  to  the  busi- 
ness travtiler  than  to  the  tourist,  and  wo  may  decline  to 
pass  under  the  arch  which  divides  the  pfreat  river  of  the 
Highlands  from  the  quieter  country  above. 

THE  CATSKILLS. 

The  Catskill  Mountain  House,  which  is  the  central  point 
for  the  Catskills,  may  be  reached  in  8  to  13  or  llj  hours 
from  New- York  City,  by  boat  or  rail,  and  stage.  By  rail 
you  leave  Thirtieth  street  at  10  A.M.,  and  reach  the  sta- 
tion opposite  Catskill  at  2.43  P.M.,  fare  $2.35  ;  ferry  over 
the  river,  and  Beach's  stage  line  (10  miles,  $4)  carries  you 
up  the  mountain  to  the  hotel.  By  steamboat  one  may 
leave  the  city  at  9  a.m.  on  the  Daniel  Drew  or  C.  Vib- 
bard,  foot  of  Desbrosses  street ;  at  5  p.m.  on  the  Thomas 
(not  Mary)  Powell  or  New  Champion,  Franklin  Street  pier, 
Saturdays,  2  p.m.,  or  by  several  other  lines ;  fare  gene- 
rally, $1  to  Catskill.  Besides  the  particular  stage  lino 
referred  to,  from  the  point  where  the  steam  ferry-boat 
lands,  carriages  and  omnibuses  take  passengers  to  the 
village,  half  a  mile  distant,  or  carry  them  directly  to  the 
mountains  or  elsewhere,  as  they  may  desire.     The  hotels 


i).)ii  itrt 

U'in^ 

)t'  l)<)tii 

tourist 
ills  ami 
Ul<JCi^  at 
itlon,  aa               i 

ill 

divinity 

O\)l)OiSJt0                      1 

tlio  busi-            .  ^ 
'clino  to            P 

'^"  -Hi. 

ur  of  tlio            ]  ] 

0''    ^ 

'■'"  .1 

.j.,ii:iUUUiiiiiii 

tral  point 
i;j  hours 
By  rail 
tlu5  sta- 
'orry  over 
arrles  you 
ono  may 
or  C.  Vib- 
^e  Thomas 
Street  pier, 
fare  gene- 
stage  lino 
ferry-boat 
•ers  to  tlie 
ctly  to  the 
The  hotels 


'w,. 


','t»'.  Jl 


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Taghkanic  Falls,  N.  Y. 


LAKES, 


RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


19 


ant!  some  of  tlie  larger  boarding-houses  have  carriages,  or 
stages,  which  run  daily,  or  oftener,  to  and  from  them  and 
the  landing  and  village,  while  from  other  houses  carriages 
are  sent  to  meet  such  as  are  coming  to  them  as  boarders, 
at  times  previously  agreed  upon.  Passengers  from  Bos- 
ton reach  the  Catskills  by  the  Boston  and  Albany  (West- 
ern) Railway  to  Albany,  8  hours,  fare  $6,  and  thence  by 
steamboat  or  Hudson  River  Railway  to  Catskill ;  or,  leav- 
ing the  Boston  and  Albany  road  at  Chatham,  1  hour  less, 
take  Hudson  and  Boston  Rrilway  to  the  river  shore  at 
Hudson,  4  miles  north  of  Catskill ;  thence  by  rail,  (Hud- 
son River,)  steamboat,  or  rowboat. 

The  scenery  and  the  traditional  history  of  this  region 
are  alike  attractive.  We  will  follow  the  two  together,  in 
a  brief  way.  At  the  landing  itself  the  good  ship  Half 
Moon,  in  the  classical  days  (to  Knickerbockers,  who  are 
the  aristocrats  of  the  vicinity)  of  Hendrick  Hudson,  an- 
chored Sept.  20,  1609.  The  never-forgotten  tale  of  hid- 
den treasure,  or  golden  ore,  too,  coming  down  fr<^m  the 
days  when  Governor  Wilhelmus  Kieft  gathered  from  these 
mountains  a  scanty  store  which  was  lost  in  the  Atlantic, 
occurs  to  the  visitor  as  his  foot  touches  these  famous 
banks.  Before  we  read?  the  Half- Way  House,  scenes  of 
Revolutionary  memories  appear,  where  Indians  captured 
and  carried  away  several  of  the  pale-faced  settlers.  Just 
beyond  the  Half- Way  House  or  Catskill  Mountain  Retreat 
of  Mr.  Bloom,  the  road  divides ;  the  branch  to  the  right, 
leading  directly  on,  past  the  Dutch  church,  up  the  moun- 
tain, by  the  Rip  Van  Winkle  ravine,  and  the  prrandly  soli- 
tary and  sublime  wooded  road,  with  its  loicy,  overhang- 
ing cliffs,  to  the  Mountain  House.  Half  a  mile  or  more 
before  reaching  the  summit  there  is  an  old  road  on  the 
left,  leading  down  the  mountain,  to  Palensville,  some  3 


20 


LAKES,    EIYERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


miles  south,  on  whicli  is  Moses  Rock,  a  cliff  30  feet  high 
and  80  long,  covered  with  moss,  from  the  base  of  which 
gushes  a  stream  of  water,  whence  the  name.  A  little 
higher  up,  a  path  on  the  right  leads  to  the  North  Moun- 
tain, following  which,  half  a  mile  or  more,  you  come  to 
an  abrupt  rock,  from  the  top  of  which  the  lakes  and  the 
high  mountains  to  the  south  can  be  seen.  On  the  north 
side  of  this  rock  a  fine  echo  may  be  heard  with  four  dis- 
tinct reverberations.  Further  on  is  a  precipice,  ascended 
by  a  ladder,  where  is  a  large  cavern,  formed  of  immense 
rocks  rudely  thrown  together,  and  called  the  Bear's  Rock. 
'  Two  miles  from  the  summit  the  coach  stops  at  Sleepy 
Hollow,  famous  as  the  reputed  site  of  Rip  Van  Winkle's 
long  nap.  Here  a  house  of  refreshment  has  recently  been 
built,  known  as  the  Rip  Van  Winkle  House,  and  kept  by 
Mr.  Ira  Saxe. 

The  painter,  Thomas  Cole,  made  this  region  his  home 
with  an  enthusiasm  akin  to  the  famed  Hermit  of  Niagara, 
and  won  his  first  laurels  by  the  painting  of  the  "  Cauter- 
skill  Falls."  It  was  in  the  present  vicinity  of  our  journey 
that  he  caught  inspirations  from  the  mountain-views 
whicli  remain  upon  the  canvas  in  the  "  Voyage  of  Life  " 
and  the  unfinished  "  Cross  and  the  World."  Indeed,  one 
is  vividly  reminded,  just  here,  of  the  young  pilgrim  in 
the  former  series:  for  after  leaving  Rip  Van  Winkle's 
"  wicked  flagon,"  and  coming  to  a  turn  in  the  road  where 
the  Mountain  House  suddenly  appears,  seemingly  near  by, 
the  traveler  may  fondly  anticipate  a  speedy  dinner ;  but 
like  the  stream  that  seemed  to  be  leading  the  youth  direct 
to  the  temple  in  the  clouds,  the  road  turns  and  crooks 
and  climbs,  and  weariness  ensues  before  mine  host  appears. 

The  Mountain  House  stands  upon  one  of  the  terraces  of 
the  mountain,  2500  feet  above  the  river,  and  1800  above 


LAKES,    RIVERS,    AND   MOUNTAINS. 


21 


jet  higH 

A  little 
h  Moun- 

como  to 

and  the 
\\e  nortb. 

four  dis- 

ascended 

immense 
ar's  Rock. 

at  Sleepy 
nWinkle's 
gently  been 
nd  kept  by 

L  his  home 
of  Niagara, 
le  *•  Cauter- 
our  journey 
intain-views 

,geof  Life" 
Indeed,  one 
pilgrim  in 
an  Winkle's 
}  road  where 
igly  near  by, 
dinner ;  but 
youth  direct 
s  and  crooks 
host  appears, 
he  terraces  of 
i  1800  above 


the  apparent  plain.  From  this  point  every  body  of  note 
has  written  a  descriptive  article,  saving  us  the  necessity. 
(For  example,  see  Cooper's  Leather-Stocking.)  The  view  in- 
cludes the  Hudson  River  with  its  villages  from  the  High- 
lands to  Albany,  and  the  mountains  of  Vermont,  Massa- 
chusetts, and  Connecticut,  including  in  all  an  area  of  about 
10,000  square  miles.  The  sunrise,  and  a  thunder-storm, 
are  deemed  especial  glories ;  i:A  at  rare  intervals  an  ap- 
parition like  the  "  Spectre  of  the  Brocken  "  enlivens  a  foggy 
morning.  From  the  top  of  the  South  Mountain,  300  feet 
above  the  hotel,  near  it,  some  portions  of  New- Jersey  may 
be  seen,  in  addition  to  the  three  other  States  visible  from 
this  and  other  points.  The  North  Mountain  vie\v,  higher 
still,  adds  but  little  more.  The  highest  summits  are 
Round  Top  and  High  Peak,  3800  feet  above  the  sea. 

The  Clove  is  a  remarkable  ravine  5  miles  long.  Brack- 
et's Hotel,  in  the  depths  of  the  woods  here,  is  a  very  popu- 
lar resort  for  artists  and  sportsmen.  The  Two  Lakes, 
North  and  South,  are  a  short  distance  only  from  the  Moun- 
tain House,  and  on  the  direct  road  to  the  Cauterskill  Falls. 
These  falls  are  2  miles  west  from  the  house,  reached  by 
stage,  or  boat  on  the  lake.  The  Laurel  House,  Mr.  Schutt 
proprietor,  stands  near,  where  guides  may  be  obtained. 
To  see  the  falls  to  the  best  advantage,  the  visitor  should 
redcend  the  winding  stairs  leading  from  the  platform  of 
!  je  hotel,  and  spend  an  hour  or  two  in  exploring  the 
gorje  and  glen  below.  The  descent  of  the  first  cascade 
is  180  feet,  and  of  the  second  80  feet ;  below  these  is  an- 
other (the  Bastion)  fall  of  40  feet.  One  thing  which  im- 
presses the  visitor  as  rather  comical,  is  that  the  powers 
that  be  dam  the  waters,  and  upon  the  descent  of  a  party 
to  the  foot  of  the  second  fall,  the  man  at  the  house  above 
very  obligingly  (after  the  payment  of  25  cents  each  from 


It""«»* 


22 


LAKES,    RIVERS,    AND   MOUNTAINS. 


the  party)  lets  the  water  on,  and  the  effect  is  surprisingly 
beautiful,  well  paying  for  the  fatigue  of  the  descent  and 
ascent.  The  Cauterskill  has  a  devious  and  rapid  course  of 
8  miles  to  the  Catskill,  near  the  village  of  Palensville. 

Fawn's  Leap,  or  Dog  Hole,  is  a  very  attractive  fall  of  30 
feet,  on  a  tributary  to  the  main  stream,  200  or  300  yards 
below  High  Rocks.  It  is  a  perpendicular  leap  of  some  30 
feet,  and  the  stream,  here  extremely  narrowed  by  the 
rocky  banks,  rushes  over  an  immense  concave  ledge  into 
a  caldron  from  which  a  fish  could  scarcely  emerge.  Not 
very  far  from  it  are  Haines's  Falls,  a  favorite  resort  of  the 
artists.  At  the  Haines  House  one  pays  the  usual  fee  to 
enjoy  the  scene.  The  fall  has  two  leaps,  the  first  of  150 
feet,  and  the  second  of  80,  with  a  third  one  below  of  60 
feet,  and  others  still,  so  that  in  less  than  one  fourth  of  a 
mile  the  stream  falls  475  feet.  The  water  at  the  two 
upper  falls  breaks  up  into  snowy  masses. 

A  correspondent  of  i\ie  I^ew-York  Evening  Gazette 
added  the  following  valuable  information  to  the  common 
stock  last  summer : 

"  We  drove  down  from  the  crest  of  the  great  turnpike 
from  Catskill  to  Delhi,  one  of  the  most  frequented  of  the 
great  routes  of  travel  before  the  days  of  ra'ilways,  and 
still  a  well-traveled  road,  with  its  daily  stage  and  its  daily 
mail,  into  Durham,  where  we  heard  there  were  some 
beautiful  falls.  But  little  did  we  imagine  what  was  in 
store  for  us.  Landing  at  a  quiet  little  farm-house,  whose 
owner  kindly  volunteered  to  pilot  us,  we  struck  into  the 
ro.eadow,  and  then  into  a  tempting  i^  lackberry  patch,  till 
we  reached  the  edge  of  a  steep  cliff.  Ijowering  ourselves 
down  as  best  we  could,  we  found  a  rocky  glen  over  whose 
upper  wall  the  stream  came  leaping  in  a  perpendicular 
Tall  of  50  or  60  feet  into  a  basin,  from  which,  after  recov- 


f.i 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


23 


t  and 
rse  of 
lie. 

Iof30 
yards 
Dine  30 
by  the 
ge  into 
3.    Not 
t  of  the 
1  fee  to 
t  of  150 
»w  of  60 
rtli  of  a 
the  two 


turnpike 
ed  of  the 
rays,  and 
L  its  daily 
ere  some 
it  was  in 
se,  whose 
t  into  the 
patch,  till 
ourselves 
ver  whose 
pendicular 
fter  recov- 


ering its  strength,  it  dashed  over  another  precipice  of 
nearly  equal  height.  For  picturesque  beauty,  our  host 
pronounced  it  superior  to  the  Haines  Falls,  well  known  to 
the  visitors  of  the  Mountain  House,  though  these  are  yet 
almost  unknown  to  the  general  public.  In  fact,  our  host, 
though  a  life-long  resident  of  these  parts,  had  nevc^* 
visited  them  before,  and  the  *  Dominie  of  the  Catskills  * 
has  never  recorded  them  in  his  book." 

THE  ERIE  BAILV^AT. 

Every  body  knows  where  the  Erie  Railway  is,  where  it 
begins  and  ends,  and  what  its  attractions,  facilities,  and 
prices  are,  in  general.  It  will  be  the  purpose  of  this  ar- 
ticle to  point  out  to  the  tourist  the  chief  points  of  interest, 
where  he  may  look  from  the  windows  or  delay  his  journey 
a  little,  to  edification  physical  and  aesthetic. 

Starting  from  New- York  City  at  8  A.M.,  to  reach  Buffalo 
by  midnight,  we  have  the  best  time  for  observing  the  early 
glories  of  the  route.  The  depot  on  New- York  Island  is  at- 
tractive beyond  the  usual  rule;  but  we  speedily  plunge 
into  the  Bergen  Tunnel,  and  for  three  minutes  remain  obli- 
vious of  aught  but  noise  and  terrors.  The  tunnel  is  caused 
by  a  rocky  ridge  which  runs  parallel  to  the  Hudson  River, 
and  cuts  off  from  it  the  Bergen  Heights,  and  the  salt 
marshes  beyond,  which  are  watered  by  the  river  Hacken- 
sack.  Further  up  the  Hudson,  this  ridge  appears  as  the 
well-known  Palisades,  visible  from  the  Hudson  River  Rail- 
way. As  soon  as  we  have  passed  the  meadows,  we  begin 
to  observe  the  suburban  residences  of  exiled  tax-payers 
from  New- York,  dotting  and  beautifying  the  landscape 
for  nearly  100  miles  in  this  as  in  all  other  directions  from 
the  city.    At  Boiling  Spring  several  private  building-parks 


24 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


I 


are  rapidly  becoming  occupied ;  a  spring  which  bubbles 
out  of  a  ridge  gives  name  to  the  place.  Passaic  Falls,  at 
Paterson,  50  feet,  are  notable  for  their  picturesque  banks. 
The  city  of  Paterson,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  on  the  road, 
owes  its  foundation  to  Alexander  Hamilton,  1791,  in  the 
cotton  interest.  The  Ramapo  Valley,  about  30  miles  out, 
2  miles  from  the  town,  is  famous  for  Revolutionary  me- 
mories of  Washington,  and  fine  natural  scenery.  Fore- 
most is  the  Torn — the  jutting  out  or  shoulder  of  the  Ra 
mapo  Gap.  On  the  right  a  group  of  beeches  overshadows 
the  stream  of  the  Ramapo,  while  on  the  left  rises  a  knoll, 
capped  by  a  cottage  covered  mth  vines ;  and  immediately 
opposite  and  in  the  centre  "swells  from  the  vale"  the 
steepled  peak  of  the  Torn,  from  which  a  very  extensive 
view,  embracing  even  the  harbor  of  New- York,  may  be 
had  for  the  climbing ;  and  it  is  said  that  Washington  often 
ascended  there  to  watch  the  movements  of  the  British  fleet. 
At  a  distance  of  1  mile  to  the  west  of  the  railway,  at  the 
junction  of  the  Sterling  Railway,  is  the  beautiful  Potague 
Lake,  nestled  among  the  hills,  about  500  feet  above  the 
valley.  From  this  point  a  commanding  view  is  obtained 
of  the  surrounding  mountains  and  the  winding  valley  of 
the  Ramapo. 

Turner's  has  the  reputation  of  being  the  most  picturesque 
station  on  this  portion  of  the  road.  Looking  toward  the 
east,  the  Ramapo  Valley  appears ;  a  beautiful  cultivated 
hill-country  on  the  north ;  to  the  west,  farms,  meadows, 
woods,  delight  the  eye.  The  lover  of  fine  scenery  should 
ascend  the  hill  north  of  the  station,  and  from  its  summit 
view  the  country  in  every  direction,  having  a  charming 
view  of  the  Mountain  Gap,  with  its  humble  farm-houses 
and  rural  church,  while  beyond  are  seen  the  silvery  surface 
of  the  Hudson,  the  town  of  Fishkill  on  the  mountain  slope, 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


25 


bubbles 

Falls,  at 

0  banks. 

tlie  road, 

1,  in  tlie 

liles  out, 

mary  me- 

y.    Fore- 

)f  tbe  Ra 

iisliadows 

3S  a  knoll, 

imediately 

vale"  tlie 
extensive 

k,  may  be 

igton  often 

,ritisb  fleet. 

^ay,  at  the 

ul  Potague 

above  the 

Ja  obtained 

g  valley  of 

picturesque 
toward  tbe 
cultivated 
meadows, 
nery  sliould 

its  summit 
a  charming 

farm-houses 
Ivery  surface 

mtain  slope, 


%nd  the  spires  of  Newburg.  Turner's  is  surrounded  in 
every  direction  with  lakes  of  great  attractiveness,  llum- 
aey's  Lake,  2  miles  east,  has  a  surface  of  100  acres  of  water, 
with  fine  fishing  of  pickerel,  perch,  etc. ;  Round  Lake,  3 
miles  south-west,  200  acres ;  Little  Long  Lake,  3^  miles 
west,  1  mile  long  and  ^  mile  \/ide ;  Mount  Baslia  Lake,  3 
miles  west,  800  acres,  with  splendid  fishing  of  pickerel  and 
perch ;  Truxedo  Lake,  6  miles  south-west,  is  1^  mile  long 
and  ^  mile  wide ;  Slaughter's  Lake,  to  the  east,  is  1|  mile 
long  and  1  mile  wide. 

The  Orange  Hotel,  part  of  which  is  the  depot  of  the  rail- 
way at  this  point,  is  an  excellent  house,  accommodating 
150  guests.    Terms,  $3  per  day,  or  $12  per  week. 

Monroe  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  what  may  be  termed 
the  lake  region  of  Orange  county.  Here,  within  a  circuit 
of  10  miles,  are  many  fresh-water  lakes  from  1  to  9  miles 
in  extent — Mount  Basha,  Truxedo,  and  Greenwood.  Green- 
wood Lake  is  distant  only  10  miles  from  Monroe,  and  dur- 
ing the  summer  season  has  a  convenient  communication 
by  stage,  occupying  only  2  1  ours'  time  in  riding.  It  is  a 
great  summer  resort  on  account  of  its  beautiful  and  pic- 
turesque scenery,  its  celebrated  fishing,  and  its  salubrious 
atmosphere.  The  Windermier  House,  with  its  grounds 
embracing  400  acres,  is  the  principal  resort  for  visitors  and 
families  from  New- York,  who  remain  as  permanent  boarders 
during  t  e  season.  The  visitor  should  ascend  the  moun- 
tain and  enjoy  its  fine  prospects. 

Wo  now  pass  rapidly  Greycourt,  where  a  good  view  of 
Sugar  Loaf  Mountain  appears,  and  where  the  artists  Crop- 
•  sey  and  Beekman  reside ;  the  Newburg  Branch  diverges 
[here,  upon  which  is  the  homestead  of  the  Clinton  family, 
near  Washingtonvllle,  where  Governor  De  Witt  Clinton 
[was  brought  up,  and  perhaps  born.    Goshen,  coming  next, 


26 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


Llit 


18  located  in  the  centre  of  the  great  Wallkill  Valley.  Iti 
is  surrounded  by  a  country  of  much  fruitfulness  and 
beauty,  presenting  natural  attractions  and  appearances 
superior  to  those  of  the  famed  New- York  Central  Park. 
The  country  round  about  for  miles  is  gently  undulating. 
Here  is  produced  the  famed  Goshen  butter,  cheese,  cream, 
and  the  even  more  famous  Orange  county  milk.  The  former 
President  of  the  Erie,  Mr.  Berdell,  and  Mr.  D.  H.  Haight, 
proprietor  of  the  St.  Nicholas  Hotel,  New- York  City,  have 
elegant  residences  here.  The  trout-fishing  streams  of  Sul- 
livan and  Ulster  may  be  reached  in  a  few  hours'  time  from 
Goshen,  via  the  Montgomery  and  Erie  road,  and  by  stage 
to  Ellenville,  one  of  the  most  sequestered  and  beautiful 
towns  within  the  bounds  of  the  Blue  Ridge.  Sam's  Point, 
Montgomery,  and  Walden,  and  other  interesting  localities 
in  the  vicinity,  are  equally  accessible  by  the  same  route. 
Greenwood  Lake,  Mount  Basha  Lake,  the  Wallkill,  Otter- 
kill,  Pochuck  Creek  and  tributaries,  the  Warwick  Wood- 
lands, the  Great  Wild  Meadows,  the  Big  Spring  in  the 
trackless  Cedar  Swamp,  which  forms  a  natural  cover,  and 
where  haunt  plover,  woodcock,  and  quail,  are  all  located 
"  within  hailing  distance"  of  Goshen. 

Middletown,  67  miles  out,  is  a  pretty  enough  town,  but 
not  of  special  interest  for  us.  A  stage  here  connects  with 
the  8  A.M.  train  from  New- York  for  Monticello.  This  is  a 
pleasant  village,  county  seat  of  Sullivan,  of  some  1200 
inhabitants,  situated  on  a  hill,  and  of  considerable  attrac- 
tions. Hotels :  Monticello,  R.  B.  Townsend ;  and  Mansion, 
Solomon  W.  Roger;  the  latter  1  mile  out.  About  1 
mile  from  the  village,  on  the  borders  of  Pleasant  Lake, 
Mr.  J.  E.  Quinlan  has  fitted  up  a  house  where  excellent 
board  can  be  had  for  families  at  $8  to  $10  per  week  each 
person.  There  is  also  some  trout  fishing  in  the  vicinity  of 
Monticello. 


LAKES,   RIVERS,    AND   MOUNTAINS. 


27 


alley.    I^ 
IneBS  and 
)pearances 
tral  Park, 
undulating, 
ese,  cream, 
The  former 
H.  Haiglit, 
L  City,  have 
earns  of  Sill- 
s' time  from 
aid  by  stage 
ad  beautiful 
Sam's  Point, 
ing  localities 
3  same  route. 
,allkill,  Otter- 
,rwick  Wood- 
;pring  in  ^^^ 
:al  cover,  and 
re  all  located 


Otisville  is  the  last  of  the  milk-depots,  and  is  on  the 
eastern  side  of  the  Shawangunk  Ridge,  one  of  the  greatest 
obstacles  which  were  overcome  in  building  the  Erie  Rail- 
way. A  long  tunnel  through  the  ridge  was  first  pro- 
posed, but  after  thorough  examination  the  present  plan 
was  adopted.  Passing  through  a  long  and  heavy  rock- 
cut,  the  summit  is  passed  about  2  miles  beyond  Otis- 
ville, and  then  the  valley  below  is  reached  by  gradually 
descending  the  steep  and  rugged  slope  of  the  Shawan- 
gunk  Mountain,  in  a  southerly  direction,  on  a  grade 
of  about  45  feet  to  a  mile.  The  character  of  the 
scenery  changes  wonderfully  after  leaving  Otisville.  We 
pass  alternately  through  gloomy  cuts,  and  then  over  side- 
hill  embankments,  commanding  magnificent  views  of  the 
romantic  valley  of  the  Neversink,  traversed  by  the  Dela- 
ware and  Hudson  Canal,  and  dotted  with  farm-houses  and 
villages. 

Five  miles  beyond  Otisville  are  located  the  Erie  and 
Wallkill  Lead  Mines,  owned  mostly  by  English  capitalists, 
who  commenced  work  on  them  several  years  ago,  and 
keep  silently  at  it  yet.  The  lead  is  fully  85  per  cent  pure 
metal,  and  is  shipped  to  England.  Sufficient  silver  is 
found  in  the  ore  to  pay  the  entire  expenses  of  transporta- 
tion and  mining.  The  whole  of  the  western  side  of  the 
mountain  is  said  to  be  owned  by  three  brothers,  from 
whom  land  can  be  leased,  but  not  bought.  Eight  miles 
beyond  Otisville  is  Shin  Hollow  Switch.  Here  there  is  a 
deep  cut  through  a  soft  soil  three  fourths  of  a  mile  in 
length  and  30  feet  deep.  This  portion  of  the  road  is  of 
the  most  oppressive  loneliness,  for  the  valley  is  completely 
shut  out  of  sight,  soon,  however,  to  reappear  in  heightened 
beauty  and  interest,  after  passing  the  great  rock-cutting 
just  two  miles  ahead  of  us.    The  approach  to  this  last 


I" 

I 


1 


28 


LAKES,    RIVERS,    AND   MOUNTAINS. 


formidable  barrier  in  the  descent  of  the  mountain  is  very 
fine.  We  reacli  it  by  a  high  curved  embankment,  and 
see  on  eacli  side  of  us  a  steep  wall  of  slate  rock,  50  feet  in 
height  and  2500  feet  in  length.  And  now  let  the  traveler 
place  himself  on  the  right  side  of  the  train,  (going  west- 
ward,) to  catch  the  noble  prospect  prepared  for  him  ou 
emerging  from  this  dark  pass.  At  its  very  portal  the 
road  makes  a  sudden  curve  southward,  and  from  the  pre- 
cipitous mountain  side,  along  the  edge  of  which  we  de- 
scend, he  beholds  the  valley  of  Neversink,  its  western 
verge  bordered  by  a  chain  of  mountains,  at  the  foot  of 
which  gleams  the  village  of  Port  Jervis,  and  its  level 
fields  losing  themselves  far  in  the  south,  where  rolls  the 
Delaware  River ;  beyond  which,  again,  the  town  of  Mil- 
ford,  Pa.,  may  be  seen  in  the  misty  horizon. 

At  the  junction  of  the  Neversink  River  with  the  Dela- 
ware, is  the  corner  boundary  between  New- York,  New- 
Jersey,  and  Pennsylvania.  Port  Jervis  is  a  short  distance 
north  of  this  place,  and  is  the  terminal  station  of  the 
eastern  division  of  the  railway.  It  is  named  after  John 
B.  Jervis,  the  engineer  of  the  Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal. 
This  canal  is  one  of  the  great  avenues  by  which  the  an- 
thracite coal  of  Pennsylvania  reaches  tide-water,  and  it 
comes  down  the  valley  of  the  Neversink  to  the  Delaware 
at  this  point.  Port  Jervis  is  a  pleasant  place  of  summer 
resort  for  people  who  are  fond  of  beautiful  scenery.  Three 
miles  beyond,  we  cross  the  Delaware  River  over  a  wooden 
bridge  800  feet  in  length.  For  26  miles  after  we  shall 
be  in  the  State  of  Pennsylvania.  The  company  pays 
to  the  Quaker  State  the  annual  sum  of  $10,000  for  the 
privilege  of  running  their  road  on  this  side  of  the  river, 
but  are  thereby  exempted  from  further  taxation. 

At  Port  Jervis  we  enter  upon  the  second  division  of  the 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS, 


29 


railway,  extending  104  i>iilc8  to  SuMquelianna  ;  near  Slio- 
hola  tlio  road  lies  on  the  mountain  side,  several  feet  above 
the  river,  along  a  mighty  gallery,  supported  by  grand 
natural  abutments  of  jagged  rock.  Three  miles  of  this 
section  cost  the  company  $300,000.  The  region  about 
Narrowsburg  is  rendered  famous  in  Cooper's  Last  of  the 
Mohicans;  but  the  scenery  is  not  striking.  At  Deposit 
we  leave  the  Delaware  River.  Summit,  8  miles  further,  is 
1360  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Deposit  being  997 
feet  above,  a  difference  of  309  feet  in  8  miles.  It  is  a 
wild  and  desolate  place.  From  this  point  the  road 
descends  on  a  grade  of  60  feet  per  mile  for  about  8 
miles.  As  the  train  descends  into  the  valley,  there  seems 
no  promise  of  the  wonders  which  are  awaiting  us;  but 
they  come  suddenly,  and,  before  we  are  aware,  we  are  tra- 
versing the  famous  Cascade  Bridge,  a  solitary  arch,  250 
feet  wide,  sprung  over  a  dark  ravine  of  184  feet  in  depth. 
No  adequate  idea  of  the  bold  spirit  and  beauty  of  the  scene 
can  be  had  from  the  cars.  It  will  richly  repay  the 
traveler  to  come  to  a  full  stop  and  explore  the  fastnesses 
of  this  vicinity. 

We  now  for  the  first  time  behold  the  Susquehanna 
River,  a  point  ranking  high  in  the  famous  places  on  the 
road,  and  adding  to  the  reasons  for  delay.  The  Starucca 
Viaduct,  also,  is  here,  a  little  over  the  State  line  in  Penn- 
sylvania. It  is  1200  feet  in  length,  110  feet  high,  and  has 
18  arches,  each  of  50  feet  span ;  the  whole  cost  $320,000. 
A  fine  painting  by  Cropsey,  representing  this  great  bridge 
and  the  valley  beneath  it,  will  be  remembered  as  one  of 
the  prizes  in  the  notorious  Crosby  Opera  House  lottery. 
A  little  beyond  the  viaduct,  and  just  this  side  (New- York) 
of  Susquehanna  Station,  the  road  passes  over  the  Canne- 
wacta  Creek  and  village  of  Lanesborough,  on  a  trestle- 
bridge  450  feet  long  and  70  feet  high. 


30 


LAKES,   RIVERS, 


AND   MOUNTAINS. 


Kirkwood,  200  miles  from  Now- York,  in  Broomo  county, 
must  bo  romombered  as  the  birthplace  of  Joe  Smith,  the 
Mormon. 

Binghamton  is  a  beautiful  and  healthful  city,  having  a 
fine  view  of  the  river  and  neighboring  country  from  the 
hill  whereon  stands  the  elegant  State  Inebriate  Asylum  of 
New- York.  Owego  is  notable  for  similar  beauties  of  land- 
scape ;  and  Qlenmary,  once  the  homo  of  N.  P.  Willis, 
where  he  wrote  his  Letters  from  under  a  Bridge,  on  the 
Owego  creek. 

Elmira  is  a  town  of  much  beauty,  vhich  is  more  than 
can  be  said  of  Corning,  the  seat  of  a  State  arsenal.  The 
latter  is  the  point  at  which  diverges  the  Buffalo  Branch. 

Hornellsville,  41  miles  from  Corning,  332  from  New- 
York,  is  the  third  eating-station  from  the  metropolis,  and 
has  perhaps  the  second  best  saloon  in  the  State.  Passen- 
gers by  the  night  express  breakfast  here. 

Beyond  this,  the  main  road  becomes  for  the  most  part 
quite  uninteresting,  the  country  sparsely  settled,  wild, 
and  desolate.  The  valley  of  the  Genesee  commences  just 
beyond  Tip  Top  Summit,  345  miles  out,  the  highest  grade 
on  the  road  being  1700  feet  above  tide  level.  We  pass 
over  the  Alleghany  watershed,  or  ridge,  at  Cuba,  378 
miles  out,  and  leave  the  Genesee  waters  to  flow  to  the  At- 
lantic via  the  Saint  Lawrence,  while  the  Alleghany  River, 
whose  course  we  now  pursue,  flows  down  by  way  of  the 
Ohio  and  Mississippi  to  the  lower  Atlantic,  through 
Gulf  of  Mexico.  From  Olean  we  enter  the  lands  of  lue 
Indian  Reservation,  30  miles  long  by  a  half-mile  on  each 
side  the  river ;  the  Senecas  own  it. 

Salamanca  is  interesting  or  important  to  the  tourist  only 
in  view  of  its  awful  desolateness,  reminding  one  vividly 
of  Dickens's  "  Eden,"    in  Martin  Chiczzlewit ;  and    its 


LAKES,    KIVEUS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


81 


)  county, 
uith,  tUe 

having  a 
from  tUo 
.syluin  of 
8  of  land- 
>.  Willis, 
ge,  on  tlie 

more  than 
mal.    The 
>  Branch. 
Tom  New- 
•opolis,  and 
,.      Passen- 


touristonly 

one  vividly 

Ut;  and    its 


hrmix  tho  eastorn  torminus  of  tho  Atlantic  and  Groat 
WcHtorn  Railway.  Tho  land,  low,  wet,  stumpy,  belongs 
to  tho  "  poor  Indian."  Dunkirk,  400  miles  from  New- 
York,  brings  us,  glad  enough,  to  Lake  Erie. 

NORTH-WESTERN  DIVISION. 

"^n  the  branch  of  the  Erie  Railway  diverging  from  tho 
uunk  in  a  north-westerly  direction  to  Attica  and  Buffalo, 
tliere  are  few  points  of  interest ;  but  one  of  them,  particu- 
larly, deserves  special  mention. 

Portage,  363  miles  from  New- York,  01  from  Buffalo,  is  a 
village  of  1519  inhabitants,  located  on  the  Genesee  Valley 
Canal  and  the  Genesee  River.  In  its  immediate  vicinity 
are  the  Portage  Falls,  three  in  number,  each  of  which  is 
remarkable  for  its  beauty  and  grandeur.  Tho  upper,  or 
Horseshoe  Falls,  70  feet  high,  are  about  three  quarters  of  a 
mile  below  the  village.  The  Middle  Falls  are  about  ono 
quarter  of  a  mile  further  down  the  river.  Here  the  water 
pours  in  an  unbroken  sheet  into  a  chasm  110  feet  below, 
which  is  bounded  by  perpendicular  ledges.  A  cave,  called 
the  Devil's  Oven,  has  been  worn  into  the  rocks  on  the  west 
bank,  near  the  bottom  of  the  falls.  In  low  water  100  per- 
sons can  be  seated  in  it ;  but  when  the  river  is  high,  it  is 
filled  with  water.  Two  miles  below  th^  Middle  Falls,  be- 
fore reaching  the  third,  the  river  pursues  a  winding  course 
between  perpendicular  walls,  across  which  a  man  might  al- 
most leap,  then  descends  in  a  succession  of  rocky  steps  almost 
as  regular  as  a  staircase,'  dives  under  a  shelving  rock,  and 
I  descends  into  a  narrow  pass  about  15  feet  wide.  Descend- 
ing perpendicularly  for  20  feet,  it  strikes  against  the  base 
of  high  rocks,  whirls  back,  and,  turning  nearly  at  right 
angles,  falls  into  a  deep  pool  overhung  with   shelving 


32 


LAKES,   EIVERS,   AND  MOUNTAINS. 


.;li, 


rocks.    Sugar  Loaf,  an  isolated  mass  of  rock,  15  feet  in  di- 
ameter and  100  feet  high,  rises  from  the  river-bed  at  a 
bend  in  its  course  and  receives  nearly  the  whole  force  of 
the  rushing  waters.    These  falls  are  accessible  only  from 
the  west  side.    The  perpendicular  bank  on  the  west  of  the 
river  is  380  feet  high  at  one  point.      The  bridge  by  which 
the  railway  crosses  the  river  is  the  largest  wooden  railway 
bridge  in  the  world,  built  at  a  cost  of  $175,000,  and  stand- 
ing upon  13  strong  stone  piers  set  in  the  bed  of  the  river, 
and  rising  sufficiently  above  high-water  mark  to  be  secure 
against  freshets.     Above  these  piers  a  timber  trestle-work 
rises  234  feet,  on  the  top  of  which  the  track  of  the  road  is 
laid.    The  bridge  is  800  feet  long,  and  is  so  constructed 
that  any  timber  in  the  whole  structure  can  be  removed 
and  replaced  at  pleasure.      The  first  and  second  falls  can 
be  seen  from  the  bridge,  and  present  a  grand  appearance 
as  they  are  seen  in  the  distance  dashing  over  the  rocks  and 
plunging  into  the  black  basin.     In  some  places  the  rocks 
of  the  ravine  are  300  feet  high,  and  small  streams,  trick- 
ling over  the  top  of  this  wall,  dissolve  into  blue  mist  long 
before  they  reach  the  bottom.    The  Genesee  Valley  Canal 
crosses  the  river  on  an  aqueduct  just  above  the  bridge, 
then,  running  parallel  with  the  river,  passes  under  the 
railway  bridge  on  the  high  bluflf  of  rocks  forming  the  east 
bank  of  the  river.    The  perforations  for  a  tunnel  which 
was  commenced  and  then  abandoned,  may  be  seen  in  dri- 
\ing  from  the  hotel  to  the  bottom  of  the  ravine.    Alto- 
gether  this  place  will  well  repay  the  yipitor  who  has  suf 
ficient  leisure  for  a  stay  of  some  days.    The  view  from  be- 
low is  quite  necessary  to  one  who  would  enjoy  the  full 
grandeur  of  the  scene.     Portageville,  the  nearest  village, 
is  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  1|  miles  south  of  the  sta- 
tion, in  the  township  of  Genesee  Falls,  Wyoming  county, 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


33 


3ed  at  a 

5  force  of 

»nly  from 

est  of  tlie 

t)y  which 

n  railway 

ind  Btand- 

the  river, 

)  he  secure 

:estle-work 

the  road  is 

constructed 

3e  removed 

ad  falls  can 

appearance 

le  rocks  and 

,es  the  rocks 

•eams»  trick- 
lie  mist  long 
alley  Canal 
the  hridge, 
5S  under  the 
,ing  the  east 
Lunel  which 

|e  seen  in  dri-  , 
ravine.    Alto- 
who  has  sut 
iew  from  he- 
.njoy  the  full 
rarest  village, 
ith  of  the  sta- 
,niing  county, 


the  river  here  forming  the  boundary  between  the  two  coun- 
ties. There  is  a  large  and  good  hotel  near  the  station, 
and  another,  the  Ingham  House,  in  Portageville.  Stages 
run  from  the  hotel  to  the  bridge. 

Gainesville,  368  miles,  is  a  place  of  some  interest.  Good 
building-stone  is  quarried  in  the  vicinity ;  and  at  Gaines- 
ville Creek,  4  milea  from  the  station,  a  young  ladies'  semi- 
nary, accommodating  250  pupils,  trains  up  scholars  in  the 
famous  Mount  Holyoke  manner.  To  the  north-east  of 
Gainesville  Station  is  Silver  Lake,  3  miles  long,  the  scene 
of  action  of  the  "  Kraken,"  or  monster  serpent,  whose  al- 
leged performances  created  so  much  excitement  in  1855. 

Warsaw,  48  miles  from  Buffalo,  is  the  county-seat  of 
Wyoming  county.  The  village  is  about  a  mile  east  of  the 
station,  on  Oatka  Creek,  in  a  deep  valley,  on  the  west  slope 
of  which  the  railway  passes  through  the  township  at  a 
considerable  elevation.  Stages  run  daily  to  Arcade,  in  the 
south-western  corner  of  the  county,  25  miles,  and  to  Bata 
via,  the  county-seat  of  Genesee.  On  the  Arcade  stage-route 
is  Wethersfield  Springs,  6  miles  from  Warsaw,  a  place 
of  some  importance,  and  the  seat  of  the  "  Doolittle  Insti- 
tute," founded  and  endowed  by  Ormus  Doolittle,  Esq.  It 
was  the  early  home  of  the  Hon.  James  R.  Doolittle,  of 
Wisconsin. 

Attica  is  on  Tonawanda  Creek,  392  miles  from  New- 
York.  The  Buffalo  Division  of  the  Erie  Railway,  which 
diverges  from  the  main  line  at  Corning,  and  passes  through 
Avon  and  Bata  via,  here  reunites  with  the  North-western 
I  Division,  forming  a  single  line  from  this  point  to  Buffalo. 
[A  branch  of  the  New- York  Central  Railway  extends  from 
[here  to  Batavia. 

The  tourist's  interest  subsides  as  he  approaches  a  city, 
md  it  is  only  as  an  individual  member  of  some  grade  in 


34 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND  MOUNTAINS. 


Hociety  that  he  will,  generally,  travel  through  the  stont>. 
imved  streets.  Buffalo,  to  one  seeking  rural  pleasure, 
therefore,  will  cause  but  little  delay.  The  principal  things 
to  see  are  the  Mercantile  Library  rooms,  St.  Joseph's  (Ro- 
man Catholic)  Cathedral — the  most  imposing  in  the  State, 
far  superior  to  St.  Patrick's  in  New- York — the  Episcopal 
church  of  St.  Paul,  with  its  chime  of  bells ;  the  grain  eleva- 
tors at  the  water's  edge,  etc.  Other  objects  of  interest  will 
be  found,  according  to  each  visitor's  idiosyncrasies.  The 
chief  hotels  are  the  Mansion,  corner  of  Exchange  street, 
find  the  Tiffl,  farther  out,  both  on  Main  (the  principal) 
street.  The  city  was  founded  by  the  Holland  Land  Com- 
pany in  1801 ;  burned  by  the  British,  1814 ;  every  house 
was  destroyed  but  one,  which  is  still  standing  near  the 
corner  of  Mohawk  and  Main  streets.  In  1815,  buildings 
were  again  erected,  and  in  1825,  Congress  voted  $80,000 
for  the  sufferers.  The  principal  influence  in  producing 
the  rapid  growth  of  the  city  was  exerted  by  the  construc- 
tion of  the  Erie  Canal,  completed  in  October,  1825,  which 
has  ts  western  terminus  here.  Next  to  New- York  City, 
Buffalo  is  the  most  important  commercial  city  in  the  State. 
The  French,  who  were  its  first  visitors,  named  it "  Buffle  " — 
English,  Buffalo — from  the  wild  oxen  which  they  saw  in 
great  droves  around.  The  plan  upon  which  Joseph  Elli- 
cott  (who  assisted  his  brother  Andrew  in  laying  out  Wash- 
ington City)  laid  out  the  streets  of  Buffalo,  is  worth  noticing. 
The  streets  are  wide  and  straight,  and  generally  cross  each 
other  at  right  angles.  A  few  of  the  side  streets,  however,  en- 
ter Main  street  at  an  angle  of  45°.  These  latter  streets,  cross- 
ing the  others  at  their  points  of  intersection,  form  a  large 
number  of  places  or  squares,  give  variety  to  the  outlines  of 
the  city,  and  destroy  the  monotony  which  would  have  been 
produced  by  a  rigid  adherence  to  a  rectangular  plan. 


!^«; 


k      '^ 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND  MOUNTAINS. 


35 


t 


STATIONS  ON  OTHER  DIVISIONS. 

Blood's,  331  miles  from  New- York,  40  from  Corning, 
near  the  northern  boundary  of  Steuben  county,  on  the 
Corning,  Avon,  and  Rochester  Division,  is  an  important 
station,  from  its  connection  with  the  Canandaigua  Lake 
route.  A  daily  line  of  stages  runs  to  Naples,  at  the  head 
of  the  lake,  and  a  steamer  plies  daily  between  the  latter 
place  and  Canandaigua. 

For  Avon  Springs,  see  article  on  Mineral  Springs  op 
New-York. 

Conesus,  348  miles,  lies  between  Hemlock  and  Conesus 
Lakes,  two  beautiful  sheets  of  water.  Marrowback  Hills, 
in  the  eastern  part,  near  Hemlock  Lake,  rise  to  about  1200 
feet  above  it.  Conesus  is  widely  known  as  the  "  Round- 
Pie  Station,"  from  the  excellent  small  round  pies  long  kept 
for  sale  at  the  lunch-room  of  the  station-house. 

At  Livonia,  4  miles  further,  there  is  an  elm-tree  which 
will  interest  any  admirer  of  the  now  destroyed  "  Pittsfield 
Elm  "  in  Massachusetts.  That  venerable  tree  was  128  feet 
in  height,  and  for  90  feet  was  bare  of  branches.  The  town 
is  not  of  special  interest.       ^ 

Caledonia,  on  th^  Avon  and  Butfalo  branch,  59  miles 
from  the  latter  place,  is  in  the  northern  part  of  the  most 
northern  township  of  Livingston  county.  Settlement  made 
in  1797 ;  has  650  inhabitants.  At  this  place,  §■  of  a  mile 
from  the  station,  is  a  celebrated  spring,  remarkable  alike 
for  the  volume  and  purity  of  its  waters,  and  for  the  great 
supply  of  trout  originally  abounding  there,  and  still  kept 
up  by  artificial  means.  The  spring  is  now  the  property  of 
the  veteran  sportsman,  Seth  Green. 

At  Leroy,  52  miles  from  Buffalo,  381  from  New- York,  is 
situated  Ingham  University,  a  young  ladies'  college,  for- 


'  ST 


36 


LAKES,    RIVERS,    AND   MOUNTAINS. 


merly  presided  over  by  the  Rev.  Dr.  S.  H.  Cox,  father  of 
Bishop  Cox  of  the  Episcopal  Diocese  in  Western  New- York, 
and  now  under  the  nominal  charge  of  the  Rev.  Dr.  S.  D. 
Burchard.  In  the  eastern  part,  south  of  the  creek,  is  an 
extensive  tract  of  oak  openings,  covered  thickly  with  stone, 
and  hard  to  cultivate. 

Batavia,  Genesee  county,  396  miles  from  New- York,  37 
from  Buffalo,  was  settled  in  the  early  part  of  the  century. 
Five  branches  of  the  Central  Railway  converge  here — from 
Albany  by  Rochester,  from  Albany  by  Canandaigua,  from 
Buffalo,  from  Niagara  Palls  and  Canada,  and  from  Attica. 
The  village  has  a  population  of  3000.  It  was  here  that 
the  first  meeting  to  advocate  the  construction  of  the  Erie 
Canal  was  held  in  1809.  The  war  of  1813  put  an  end  to 
the  agitation  of  the  subject,  but  it  was  renewed  after  peace 
was  proclaimed.  The  abduction  of  Morgan,  the  alleged  be- 
trayer of  the  secrets  of  Freemasonry,  took  place  here.  He 
came  to  Batavia  to  write  and  print  his  work.  He  made  no  se- 
cret of  this  work,  and  soon  an  excitement  was  raised,  during 
which,  under  a  pretense  of  taking  him  to  Canandaigua  for 
trial  for  money  loaned  him,  conspirators  carried  him  off,  no 
one  knew  whither  until  long  after.  The  most  probable  con- 
clusion was,  that  the  Niagara  River  or  Lake  Erie  was  made 
his  grave.  The  publication  went  on  under  one  Miller.  A 
civil  war  arose,  and  men  armed  with  clubs  met  to  demolish 
the  office  ;  but  a  cannon  in  the  hands  of  the  citizens  kept 
them  off  until  the  book  was  published,  when  violence  ceased. 

For  Oak  Orchard  Acid  Springs,  see  article  on  Mineral 
Springs  of  New- York. 


LAKES,   KIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


37 


THE    ADIRONDACK  EEGION. 


The  wilderness  of  Northern  New  York,  commonly 
spoken  of  as  the  "Adirondack  Region,"  is  a  plateau  rang- 
ing from  1500  to  1800  feet  above  tide.  It  is  100  miles  in 
diameter.  On  the  north  and  east  it  approaches  within 
30  or  40  miles  of  the  Canada  line  and  Lake  Champlain  ; 
on  the  south,  within  15  or  20  miles  of  the  Mohawk  River, 
and  on  the  west,  within  the  same  distance  of  Black  River. 
It  embraces  nearly  the  whole  of  Essex,  Warren,  and 
Hamilton  counties,  the  south-west  portion  of  Clinton,  the 
south  half  of  Franklin,  the  south-eastern  third  of  St.  Law- 
rence, the  eastern  third  of  Lewis,  and  the  northern  half  of 
Herkimer.  Different  portions  of  it  are  known  under  differ- 
ent names.  The  northern  portion  is  called  the  Chateaugay 
Woods ;  the  St.  Regis  Woods  lie  next  below ;  then  comes 
the  Saranac  Region ;  then  that  of  Racket  Lake ;  to  the  east 
extend  the  Adirondacks ;  and  below,  south  and  south-west- 
erly, are  the  Lake  Pleasant  Region,  and  John  Brown's 
Tract. 

We  may  here  note,  from  Mr.  Street's  valuable  Woods 
and  Waters,  (to  which,  indeed,  we  are  mainly  indebted 
for  the  facts  in  this  article,)  some  of  the  principal  routes 
into  the  wilderness  from  Eastern,  Southern,  and  Western 
New- York. 

1.  Into  the  Chateaugay  Woods. —  1.  From  Platts- 
burgh  to  Dannemora  State  Prison,  and  Chazy  Lake,  35  or 
30  miles,  over  a  road. 

2.  From  Rouse's  Point  to  Chateaugay  Four  Corners  and 
Chateaugay  Lakes. 

II.  Into  the  Saranac  Region. —  3.  By  steamboat  to 
Port  Kent,  (or  steamboat  or  railway  to  Burlington  opposite,) 
on  Lake  Champlain.    Thence  by  post-coach  to  Keeseville 


s 


V/-  ■'  »■'■•■ 


^  I 


a: 


iiii 


38 


LAKES,    RIVERS,   AND  MOUNTAINS. 


(Essex  county)  4  miles.  From  Keeseville  40  miles  to 
Baker's  Saranac  Lake  House,  2  miles  short  of  the  Lower 
Saranac  Lake ;  or  to  Martin's,  on  the  bank  of  the  Lower 
Saranac ;  or  to  Bartlett's,  between  Round  Lake  and  Upper 
Saranac  Lake,  13  miles  from  Martin's. 

The  Keeseville  road  is  a  good,  traveled  road,  planked 
from  Keeseville  to  Franklin  Falls,  30  miles  from  Keese- 
ville. 

At  the  village  of  Au  Sable  Forks,  12  miles  from  Keese- 
ville, the  visitor  can  turn  off  into  a  road,  through  the  village 
of  Jay,  intersecting  the  Elizabethtown  road,  about  12 
miles  from  Baker's.  This  road  leads  through  the  famous 
Whiteface,  or  Wilmington  Notch. 

4.  By  steamboat  to  Westport  on  Lake  Champlain. 
Thence  to  Elizabethtown,  and  thence  to  Baker's,  or  Mar- 
tin's, or  Bartlett's.  This  route  is  about  the  dame  distance 
as  the  Keeseville  route,  but  the  road  is  by  no  means  so 
good. 

III.  Into  the  Adirondack,  Racket,  and  Hudson 
River  Regions. — 5.  From  Crown  Point,  on  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  to  Root's,  about  20  miles.  From  Root's  to  the  Adi- 
rondack Lower  Works,  20  miles ;  thence  to  Long  Lake, 
20  miles.  A  stage  runs  from  Root's  to  Long  Lake  usually 
once  a  week  during  the  summer. 

From  the  Lower  Works  to  Adirondack  Village  or  Upper 
Works,  by  water,  (through  Lake  Sanford,)  10  or  12  miles ; 
by  road,  ditto. 

From  the  Upper  Works  to  Mount  Tahawus,  (Blount 
Marcy,)  4  miles,  and  3  miles  to  top. 

From  the  Upper  Works  to  the  famous  Indian  Pass,  (the 
most  majestic  natural  wonder,  next  to  Niagara,  in  the 
State,)  4  miles. 

From  the  Indian  Pass  to  Scott's,  on  the  Elizabethtown 


I 


idk 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND  MOUNTAINS. 


39 


rpper 
dies ; 

^[ount 

|is,  (tlie 
In  the 

Ltown 


road,  (through  the  woods,  with  scarcely  a  path,)  7  miles ; 
thence  to  Baker's,  (over  a  road,)  14  miles. 

0.  From  Glenn's  Falls  to  Root's,  over  a  good  road,  30 
miles,  namely  : 

From  Glenn's  Falls  to  Lake  George,  9  miles ;  thence  to 
Warrensburgh,  6  miles ;  thence  to  Chester,  8  or  10  miles ; 
thence  to  Pottersville,  6  or  8  miles ;  thence  to  Root's,  and 
thence  to  Long  Lake,  or  the  Lower  or  the  Upper  Works  ; 
or,  from  Pottersville  to  the  Boreas  River,  15  miles. 

7.  From  Carthage,  in  Jefferson  county  (by  way  of  the 
Beach  road)  to  Long  Lake,  40  or  50  miles  ;  thence  to  Pen- 
dleton, 10  miles  ;  thence  to  Hudson  River  Bridge,  about  5 
miles  ;  thence  to  the  Lower  Works,  about  5  miles.  Can 
drive  the  whole  distance  from  Carthage  to  the  Lower 
Works. 

8.  From  Fort  Edward  to  Glenn's  Falls  and  Lake  George ; 
thence  to  Johnsburgh ;  thence  to  North  Creek  ;  thence  to 
Eagle  Lake  or  Tallow  Lake,  (the  middle  of  the  three  Blue 
Mountain  Lakes.)  From  North  Creek  to  Eagle  Lake,  20 
miles. 

9.  By  road  from  Saratoga  Springs  to  Lakes  Pleasant 
and  Piseco.  ^ 

IV.  Into  the  John  Brown  Tract  Region. — 10.  From 
Utica  by  railway  to  Booneville  ;  thence  to  Lyonsdale  and 
Port  Leyden,  7  miles  by  stage  road ;  thence  to  Deacon 
Abby's  place,  S^-  miles,  over  a  good  road ;  thence  to 
Arnold's,  (over  rather  a  poor  road,  although  passable  by 
wagon,)  14  miles. 

The  eastern  portion  of  the  plateau  is  exceedingly  moun- 
tainous. Here  lies  the  Adirondack  range,  or  group,  tho 
most  northerly  in  the  State,  extending  in  a  general  north- 
east direction  from  Little  Falls,  on  the  Mohawk  River,  to 
Cape  Trembleau  at  Lake  Champlain.   This  range  presents 


40 


LAKES,    RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


;| 


t    Iff' 


the  conical  summits  cloven  into  sharp  gray  peaks  peculiar 
to  its  hypersthene  formation,  and  attains  in  some  of  its 
peaks  more  than  the  height  of  one  mile — the  limit  of  eter- 
nal snow. 

These  i^eaks  are  Tahawus  or  Mount  Marcy,  (which  is  the 
central  and  talbst,  5467  feet  high,)  Mount  Mclntyre, 
Mount  Saint  Anthony,  (corrupted  to  Sanantoni,)  and  Mount 
Colden  ;  they  are  all  generally  isolated,  sloping  some- 
what moderately  toward  the  north,  but  precipitous  at  the 
south.  Otlier  summits  rise  north,  south,  and  west,  some 
equal  in  height  to  those  named  (except  Tahawus)  and 
others  but  little  inferior — Dix's  Peak,  Nipple  Top,  Blue 
Mountain,  Mount  Seward,  (a  cluster  of  peaks,)  Cove  Hill, 
Moose  Mountain,  Mackenzie's  Pond  Mountain,  and  White- 
face.  The  last  is  the  most  northern  of  all  the  high  crests 
of  the  wilderness,  and  hardly  inferior  in  elevation  to  Taha- 
wus, being  just  about  one  mile  high,  (5200  feet.)  From  its 
summit  30  lakes  may  be  seen.  The  region  lying  around 
the  south  base  of  Mount  Seward  was  called  by  the  Indians 
Cough-sa-ra-geh,  or  the  "  Dismal  Wilderness." 

In  the  middle  portion  of  the  plateau  the  mountains  aro 
generally  rounded,  and,  like  most  of  those  mentioned 
above,  waving  from  base  to  top  with  forest.  The  western 
portion  is  pleasantly  varied  by  hill  and  plain.  One  great 
valley  shaped  like  a  Y  crosses  the  whole  plateau  in  a 
north-east  direction.  It  begins  at  the  junction  of  Moose 
River  with  the  Black  River,  continues  70  miles  to  a 
point  6  miles  south  of  Upper  Saranac  Lake,  here  branch- 
ing northerly  to  Potsdam  in  Saint  Lawrence  county,  and 
north-easterly  to  Plattsburg  on  Lake  Champlain.  A  re- 
markable chain  of  lakes  and  streams  extends  along  this 
valley  and  its  north-eastern  branch,  linking,  (with  a  few 
carries,  and  with  the  exception  of  20  miles   of  rapids 


?   : 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


41 


ipids 


on  the  lower  end  of  Moose  River,)  Lake  Cliamplain, 
through  the  Saranac  River  and  Lakes,  the  Racket  River, 
Long,  Forked,  Racket  Lakes,  the  Eight  Lakes,  and  Moose 
and  Black  Rivers,  with  Lake  Ontario.  The  River  Saint 
Lawrence  is  linked  with  this  chain  by  the  Racket  River 
traversing  the  northern  branch  of  this  valley. 

11th.  From  Utica  by  railway  to  Boone ville ;  thence  to 
Booth's  Mills,  11  miles,  over  a  good  wagon  road ;  thence 
to  Arnold's  by  pack-horses,  (sent  by  Arnold  to  Booth's 
Mills,)  14|  miles,  over  a  bad  road. 

12th.  From  Utica  by  railway  to  Alder  Creek  ;  thence  by 
road  to  the  Reservoir  Lakes. 

13th.  From  the  village  of  Prospect  (Oneida  county,  and 
reached  by  railway,)  through  Herkimer  county,  to  More- 
house, in  Hamilton  county. 

14th.  From  Ogdensburg  to  Potsdam,  on  the  Racket  Riv- 
er, by  railway ;  thence  to  Colton  by  stage,  10  miles  ;  thence 
to  foot  of  the  Little  Bog  at  McEwen's,  on  the  Racket  River, 
12  miles,  by  private  conveyance,  over  a  good  road  ;  thence 
by  boat,  1|  miles,  to  Bog  Falls ;  then  a  short  carry  on  eafit 
side  of  river  ;  thence  to  Harris's  place,  4^  miles,  opposite 
the  mouth  of  the  Jordan  River ;  thence  3|  miles,  by  wagon 
road,  to  John  Ferry's;  thence  3  miles  farther  on,  same 
road,  to  foot  of  Moose  Head  Still  Water ;  thence  through 
the  latter,  6  miles ;  thence  9  miles  to  Racket  Pond ;  and 
thence  5  miles  to  Big  Tupper's  Lake. 

It  should  be  added  here,  that  two,  at  least,  of  these  en- 
trances to  the  Adirondacks  lie  upon  routes  highly  attrac- 
tive in  themselves  to  the  tourist.  The  fourth  and  last, 
"  into  the  John  Brown  Tract  region,"  starts  from  Booneville, 
which  is  upon  the  Utica  and  Black  River  Railway,  18 
miles  from  the  famous  Trenton  Falls,  on  the  same  road. 
(See  article  Trenton  Falls.) 


1^  -  ft!"  I^W»»^PW^W"^!" 


42 


LAKES,    PwlVETlS,    AND   MOUNTAINS. 


i  f  I' 


I 


a 


(I 


Tho  second  entrance  is  made  over  the  plank-road  lead- 
ing from  Port  Kent,  on  Lake  Cliamplain,  to  Keesoville. 
Midway  between  these  two  villages  occurs  tlio  Au  Sable 
Chasm,  of  late  years  beginning  to  bo  famous,  and  this 
spring  honored  witli  several  truthful  sketches  in  tho  Na- 
tional Academy  of  Design.    About  a  mile  and  a  half  from 
Keesoville,  the  Au  Sable  River  makes  a  leap  of  some 
30   feet,  into  a  semi-circular  basin  of  great   beauty  ;   a 
mile  further  down,  another  precipice,  greatly  resembling 
Niagara   in    general  contour,  dismisses  the  river  to  a 
course  150  feet  below,  amid  the  wildest  scenery.     Fol- 
lowing the  stream,  now  rapidly  narrowing,  deepening, 
and  foaming,  yet  further  down,  we  come  to  the  Chasm — 
a  section  fully  rivaling  in  grandeur  any  thing  east  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains.     At  the  narrowest  point  in  the  river, 
where  a  wedged  boulder  cramps  the  channel  to  a  width 
of  little  over  5  feet,  a  great  curiosity  is  noticed  in  that 
the  walls  of  the  river,  varying  hereabouts   from  90  to 
125  feet  in  height,  appear  on  one  side  inclined  and  worn, 
as  though  some  great  torrent  had  swept  over  them ;  while 
the  opposite  wall  stands  erect  and  jagged.     Still  lower 
down,  toward  the  lake,  (Champlain,)  the  walls  stand  apart 
about  50  feet,  more  than  100  feet  high,  descending  quite 
to  the  water's  edge,  in  a  sheer  perpendicular  line,  and 
extending  this  mammoth  canal,  with  occasional  widen- 
ings,  for  more  than  a  half-mile.     The  whole  region  is 
awfully  grand,  and  is  attracting  multitudes  of  artists 
every  year.      The  tourist,  going  to  the  ^oods,  will  do 
well  to  delay  a  day  at  Keeseville,  and  study  this  wonderful 
chasm.    The  Au  Sable  House,  at  Keeseville,  is  open  ail 
summer,  and  boasts  a  very  superior  table  and.  excellent 
rooms.     Board,  $2  per  day ;    $8  and  upward  per  week. 


i! 


LAKES,    RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


43 


Tlio  Chasm  IIouso  is  3  miles  from  the  villain,  just  by 
tlio  great  fall. 

All  the  wild  animals  of  our  northern  latitiulo,  the  pan- 
ther, bear,  wolf,  and  wild-cat,  are  here,  with  tho  moose, 
deer,  fisher,  sable,  otter,  mink,  and  muskrat.  The  mooso 
is  the  rarest  of  all.  The  eagle,  the  partridge,  the  loon, 
the  duck,  are  likewise  found ;  lake  trout  swarm  in  the 
broad  waters,  and  speckled  trout  in  the  cold,  clear  spring- 
brooks  and  rapid  streams.  Ten  or  twelve  years  ago,  this 
wilderness  hardly  contained  a  hut  or  shanty,  and  was 
rarely  invaded  by  visitors.  But  of  late  the  number  of 
sportsmen  and  exi)lorer8  has  gradually  but  greatly  in 
creased.  The  trout,  however,  are  as  abundant  as  ever,  as 
are  also  the  deer ;  but  the  latter  have  grown  more  timid, 
and  are  less  certainly  found.  The  shout  of  the  loon,  too, 
now  rarely  meets  the  ear.  There  are  no  settlements  of 
any  size ;  but  the  edges  of  the  wilderness  are  thinly  in- 
habited by  hunters  and  trappers,  who  pierce  its  deepest 
recesses  in  their  light  boats,  and  act  as  guides  to  visitors 
in  summer. 

The  centre  of  the  plateau  comprises  the  region  of  the 
Saranac  Lakes,  the  Racket  River  from  Racket  Lake  to 
Perciefield  Falls,  and  a  tract  around  Tupper's  Lake.  In  it 
are  found  all  the  distinctive  features  of  the  plateau — broad 
and  beautiful  expanses  of  water  ;  the  loveliest  river  of  the 
forest ;  the  prettiest  cascades ;  one  of  the  highest  moun- 
tains, commanding  the  very  grandest  prospect  of  all ;  and, 
save  one,  the  sublimest  gorge.  The  chief  and  almost  the 
only  home  of  the  moose  lies  within  it ;  trout  swarm  in  the 
myriad  brooks ;  and  the  deer  are  as  plentiful  as  in  any 
other  spot. 


II, 

:  ills 


:ii 


4i 


— 1 


■w&vfvxi  1.  AlXXiSt 


THE  CONNECTICUT  VALLEY. 

A  Plkasant  Uoutk  to  tiiic  Wiuti-:  Mountains  and 
Canada. — Thc^  best  routo  from  Now- York  to  the  Wliito 
Moinitahis  jind  Quebec  is  tlinjii^di  tbo  Connecticut  Vulloy. 
It  is  70  inilcH  sliorter  than  tiny  other. 

In  leaviujUf  New-York  for  .Montreal,  tbo  tourist  who  has 
no  time  to  spare  will  tako  tbo  12.15  p.m.  train,  arriving  at 
Si)ringliel(l  at  G  o'clock.  Here  you  bave  balf  an  hour  for 
8up])er.  From  Sprinjo^field  to  Saint  All)anH,  sleeping-cars 
are  run  on  all  nigbt  trains,  froinnrtbrou^bwitboutcbanofo. 
You  take  breakfast  at  Saint  Albans  at  G  A.M.,  and  arrive  at 
Montreal  at  9.30  A.M.  Retnrninj?,  you  leave  Montreal  at 
3.30  r.M,,  tako  supper  at  Saint  Albans,  breakfast  at  Spring- 
field, and  dinner  in  New- York. 

But  tbo  pleasure  tourist  will  not  rusli  over  tbe  ground 
like  tbis.  Ho  will  take  tbe  New-IIaven  and  Hartford  boat 
at  New- York,  and  enjoy  a  deligbtful  sail  upon  tbe  Sound. 
Tbis  will  allow  of  leisure  for  a  ramble  about  Now-IIaven, 
or  Hartford,  or  botli,  and  time  can  well  be  spent  in  tliese 
beautiful  cities.  Tbe  New-Haven  House  in  tbe  former, 
and  tbe  Allvn  House  in  tbe  latter,  are  tbe  best  botels, 
Tbe  true  point  of  departure  will  be  Springfield. 

In  proceeding  to  tbo  Wbite  Mountains,  Lake  Mempbre- 
magog,  Quebec,  Montreal,  Mount  Mansfield,  or  intermedi- 
ate points,  you  will  take  tbe  cars  of  tbe  Connecticut  IlivcT 
Bailway,  in  l^pringfield,  >n  tbo  north  side  of  tbe  depot. 
If  you  are  unacquainted  with  tbe  route,  remember  that 
tbe  cars  going  either  north  or  south,  enter  and  leave  iho 
Springfield  depot  at  its  western  end. 

Between  Springfield  and  I^ake  Mem", ''irtimagog  there  is 
no  change  of  cars.  An  elegantly  furn;sh'^d  ladies*  car 
runs  through  both  ways  on  the  morning  trains.      Going 


tela. 


pot. 
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Crystal  Cascade,  White  Mountains. 


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LAKES,    RIVE  US,    AXD    MOUNTAINS. 


45 


o 


north  on  the  train  which  leaves  Springfield  at  7.45  a.m., 
you  stop  about  20  minutes  at  Bellows  Falls,  where  you 
can  take  dinner  at  the  refreshment-room,  or  wait  until  the 
arrival  of  the  train  at  White  River  Junction  at  1.15  p.m. 
At  this  place  you  have  half  an  hour  for  dinner,  either  in 
going  or  returning  from  the  White  Mountains.  Adjoining 
the  refreshment-room  there  is  a  dining-hall,  wliere  you 
will  find  a  good  dinner.  At  Wells  River,  40  miles  from 
White  River  Junction,  you  change  cars  in  going  to  the 
White  Mountains.  From  there  to  Littleton  the  distance 
by  the  White  Mountains  Railway  is  20  miles.  From  Lit- 
tleton you  proceed  by  stage  to  Profile  House,  11  miles, 
and  to  Crav/ford  House,  24  miles. 

The  tourist  should  bear  in  mind  that  the  Crawford 
House  is  in  the  White  ]>Iountains,  and  the  Profile  House 
in  the  Fran^onia  Mountains.  If  you  call  for  a  ticket  for 
the  White  Mountains,  the  agent  will  give  you  one  to  the 
Crawford  House.  You  will  find  it  to  your  advantage 
to  purchase  one  to  the  Profile  House,  as  this  will  save  you 
13  miles  of  staging  the  same  day.  If  you  leave  White 
River  Junction  at  8.20  A.M.,  you  reach  the  Profile  House  at 
1,  and  the  Crawford  House  at  4  p.m.  If  you  leave  at  1.45 
P.M.,  (the  morning  train  from  Springfield,)  you  arrive  at 
the  Profile  House  at  6.30,  and  at  the  Crawford  House  at  9.30. 

At  Lake  Memphremagog,  105  miles  from  White  River 
Junction,  and  229  from  Springfield,  the  cars  stop  at  the 
door  of  the  Memphremagog  House,  on  the  shore  of  the 
lake.  Leaving  Springfield  at  7.45  A.M.,  you  arrive  there 
at  6.30  P.M.  The  next  morning  you  can  leave  with  Capt. 
Fogg  on  the  steamer  Mountain  Maid,  for  a  trip  through 
the  lake,  which  is  30  miles  in  length.  You  can  stop  at 
tlie  Mountain  House,  12  miles  from  the  Memphremagog 
House,  and  ascend  Owl's  Head,  which  is  nearly  3000  fee* 


46 


LAKES,   RIVERS,    AND  MOUNTAINS. 


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above  the  lalrp 

f^l^ay,  at  Shorbroolp  1^  '  *"  "'«  «™nd  Trunk 

Montreal.  '°"'^'''  """^  P^'^^'^  thence  to  Que)  ^  or 

In  going  to  Mount  ]\f-.n»fi  1 1 

►summit  House.     The  rpmo,-    i         ^"^^^  ^  nnles  from 
■'""Pli-shed  on  horseback  "'"  ''''  ^^^  -^i^'-nce  is  a! 

«IDES  ABOUl.  HARTF07„^       . 

,       «-;<i  ••  to  Tu«b,e  Down  B;;4T^*'"^  '"''^  '"'  -«- 
;oad;  to  Talcott  Mountain  9  ^l     '""'' ^-^^^  "^^  Albany 

f^V*  '"''"'•  *°  Wethe^fieM  fir*'-  *°  ^-'"Hart 
4  miles;  over  Ne win oton  Mn     .  *""•  *''  G'astenburv 

Hill,  to  Bioomma,  :^:ZZ'Z'  '*  """'^'-  '^  ^-pS 

some  7  miles.  '*  *°  Sliipman's  at  Eocky  HiJi, 

cWtts  on  the  ContS^l;:  *-'^-*  '-"  ^»  Ma^a- 
16^6.    It  «  ehiefly  noted  for     ,!  i      '"^  ^""^  ««'«ed  i„ 

tlie  residence  of  Dr.  J  «  °^  f^P"*'  ^a^Pden  Park  and 
*«-•.  It  hasa,soai.t,'^° i;^'  ""^  -«-  -^  S 
«f  a  v.sit.  The  two  pr^nci  nT  b!  ■"'"''"'''■  '^''^  -orthy 
and  State ;  the  former  runnn  "''  '*''<'^*^  are  Main 

ter  to  the  Armory.  "'°^  ^'''  *e  depot,  and  the  ]a  " 

The  Smith  &  VVes^inr,  „•  .  , 
-<i  it  is  also  famo^ for  UsT  "^  "^^^'^^  «  «Pnngfie,d  • 
f  .-  wh,-ch  there  is  no  bet  ST  '°*^^'  "'^  *^-~: 

--'----^the;-:rnrs-^.ad. 


i 


48 


LAKES,    RIVERS,    AND   MOUNTAINS. 


for  all  tourists  throug^i  the  Connecticut  Valley.  There 
are  many  beautiful  drives  about  Springfield.  A  day  can 
be  spent  here  very  pleasantly  and  profitably.  Visitors  are 
allowed  to  inspect  the  operations  at  the  Armory,  a  mile 
from  the  depot. 

Passing  Chicopee,  and  its  famous  Ames  Manufacturing 
Works,  whence  come  so  many  elegant  bronzes,  you  soon 
look  out  upon  the  wonderful  dam  at  Holyoke,  and  in  a  few 
minutes  more  are  in  the  shadows  of  Mounts  Tom  and 
Holyoke.  Arrived  at  Northampton,  there  is  an  abundance 
to  attract  the  attention. 


Ill 


Southampton,  Holyoke,  and  Amiiekst. — Four  miles 
south-west  of  Northampton  is  Easthampton,  with  its  fac- 
tories, and  Willision  Seminary.  Six  miles  south-east  is 
South-Hadley,  famous  .'or  its  Mount  Holyoke  Seminary, 
founded  by  Mary  Lyon.  Florence,  the  little  village  that 
has  given  the  name  to  a  popular  sewing-machine,  is  only 
3  miles  from  Northampton. 

But  of  the  surroundings  of  this  lovely  town,  Amherst 
and  Mount  Holyoke  are  the  most  interesting.  Amherst  is 
7  miles  east,  and  is  noted  for  its  rare  natural  scenerv. 
Ux)on  the  crest  of  one  of  its  hills  tower  the  college  build- 
ings, whence  have  gone  forth  such  men  as  Mr.  Beecher, 
Dr.  Storrs,  Dr.  Hitchcock,  Dr.  Huntington,  and  Governor 
Bullock.  Back  of  the  town,  upon  a  beautiful  eminence, 
summer  visitors  find  a  comfortable  hotel,  known  as  the 
Orient  House.  There  are  mineral  springs  adjoining.  The 
Massachusetts  State  Agricultural  College  is  located  here. 

Mount  Holyoke  is  on  the  east  side  of  the  Connecticut, 
2  miles  from  Northampton.  It  is  1000  feet  in  height. 
Here  in  1821  was  built  the  first  house  erected  on  any 
mountain  in  New-England.    It  is  a  favorite  place  of  resort, 


WfBBBIP*" 


LAKES,   EIVEES,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


49 


ler, 
or 
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lie 
lie 
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ux, 
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nv 
)rt, 


and  during  a  single  season  from  15,000  to  20,000  people 
visit  its  summit,  coming  from  netxrly  every  Northern  and 
Western  State  in  the  Union.  The  view  is  beautiful  and 
picturesque,  and  is  i^ronounced  by  distinguished  travelers 
to  be  the  finest  m  America.  N.  P.  Willis,  and  President 
Hitchcock,  the  latter  distinguished  as  a  geologist,  have 
written  glowing  descriptions  of  its  unrivaled  beauty ;  while 
Jenny  Lind,  during  a  visit  to  it  when  on  her  concert-tour 
through  this  country,  spoke  of  it  in  terms  of  unqualified 
praise.  So  great  a  diversity  of  scenery  is  rarely  met  Avith. 
Mountain,  meadow,  river,  and  valley  are  harmoniously 
blended,  while  here  and  there  the  tall  spires  of  hundreds 
of  churches  are  seen  pointing  heavenward.  The  view  is 
much  more  extensive  than  one  would  supjiose,  reaching 
from  the  Green  Mountains  in  Vermont  and  Monadnock  in 
New-Hampshire  on  the  north,  to  East  and  West  Rocks  on 
the  Sound  in  the  south,  a  distance  of  more  than  100  miles. 
On  the  west,  Greylock  rears  its  stately  peak,  while  in  the 
east  the  rounded  form  of  Wachusett  meets  the  eye.  The 
view  embraces  no  less  than  ten  mountains  in  four  States, 
and  about  forty  villages.  The  proprietor  of  the  Prospect 
House,  J.  W.  French,  has  resided  on  the  mountain  nearly 
twenty  years,  and  half  of  that  time  both  summer  and 
winter.  Visitors  are  taken  to  the  summit  by  steam  power, 
an  inclined  railway  having  been  constructed  in  1854,  ex- 
tending 600  feet  down  the  mountain  to  the  carriage-road, 
where  it  is  to  connect  with  a  horse  railway  to  the  Connecti- 
cut River.  A  steamboat  was  built  in  the  spring  of  1866, 
by  Mr.  French,  of  the  Prospect  House,  and  makes  trips  on 
the  Connecticut,  carrying  passengers  to  and  from  the  ter- 
minus of  the  mountain  railway. 
The  summit  is  less  than  3  miles  from  Northampton, 


50 


LAKES,   BIVERS,   AND  MOUNTAINS. 


1 


) 


If 


nil 


from  which  place  it  is  easily  reached  by  carriages  or  other- 
wise. 

Distance  from  the  Prospect  House  to  Northampton,  3 
miles;  Springfield,  20;  Worcester,  76;  Boston,  120;  Al- 
bany, 122 ;  Hartford,  46 ;  New-Haven,  82  ;  New- York,  158  ; 
Greenfield,  22  ;  Brattleboro,  45  ;  Bellows  Falls,  70 ;  White 
River  Junction,  109. 

Perpendicular  elevation  of  Mount  Holyoke,  1000  feet. 
Carriage-road  from  base  to  feeding-stable,  f  of  a  mile. 
Railway  from  stable  to  summit,  600  feet.  Perpendicular 
ascent  from  stable,  365  feet.  First  house  built  in  1821. 
Second  house  built  in  1851.  Enlarged  to  present  size  in 
1861.  First  railway  in  1854.  Second  railway  in  1860. 
Present  track  laid  in  1866.  Number  of  passengers  carried 
over  its  track  to  1866,  125,000.  Number  of  acres  in  Ox- 
Bow  Island,  400.  Number  of  acres  in  Shepherd  Island, 
20.  Number  of  acres  in  Northampton  Meadows,  8000. 
Number  of  acres  in  Hadley  Meadows,  2700.  Number  of 
trees  in  West  Street,  Hadley,  811.  Length  of  West  Street, 
Hadley,  1  mile. 

Round  Hill,  a  beautiful  eminence  overlooking  the  town, 
with  its  water-cure  buildings,  and  its  grove  of  native  for- 
est-trees, will  be  noticed  in  the  north-west,  and  about  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  west  of  the  railway. 

Here  George  Bancroft,  the  historian,  and  J.  G.  Cogs- 
well, for  some  years  Librarian  of  the  Astor  Library,  had  a 
famous  classical  school — one  of  the  most  noted  in  this  coun- 
try. Dr.  H.  Halsted  now  occupies  the  building  for  a 
water-cure.  Jenny  Lind  spent  several  months  there  just 
after  her  marriage,  previous  to  returning  to  Europe.  The 
view  from  the  piazza  of  the  water-cure  is  extensive  and 
beautiful,  and  is  nowhere  surpassed. 

The  State  Lunatic  Hospital,  located  1  mile  west  of 


i'(  \ 


)gS- 

Ld  a 
lun- 
Ir  a 

Inst 
^lie 
ind 


of 


LAKES,   RIVERS,    AND   MOUNTAINS. 


51 


the  village,  is  a  large  and  elegant  structure.  The  erection 
of  the  building  was  commenced  in  185G,  and  completed  in 
1858. 

GREENFIELD. 

Passing  Whately,  Hatfield,  Soutli-Deerfield,  with  its 
Sugar-Loaf  Mountain,  and  Old  Deerfield,  with  its  Indian 
massacre  memories,  after  2  hours'  ride  from  Springfield, 
the  tourist  is  in  Greenfield,  one  of  the  neatest,  most  taste- 
ful, and  most  enjoyable  towns  in  all  New-England.  Tbe 
Mansion  House  is  a  capital  summer  hotel,  and  tl;ere  are 
delightful  drives  all  about.  Among  the  latter  we  would 
mention  that  to  Leyden  Glen,  the  Gorge  Road,  up  Green 
River  to  Still  Water,  in  Deerfield,  coming  back  by  the  Old 
Indian  House  to  Turner's  Falls,  to  Shelburne  Falls,  and 
Hoosac  Tunnel.  On  Rocky  Mountain,  about  a  mile  east  of 
the  town,  are  two  other  interesting  localities — the  Poet's 
Seat,  and  Bear's  Den.  From  the  former  there  are  views  of 
the  Connecticut  and  the  valley  in  the  east,  the  locality  of 
Turner's  Falls,  the  town  of  Montague,  and  the  valley  lying 
to  the  west.  From  Bear's  Den,  a  view  is  had  of  Deerfield 
and  the  meadows  around  that  town. 

Visitors  to  the  Hoosac  Tunnel  leave  the  cars  at  Green- 
field and  proceed  by  stage  through  the  village  of  Shel- 
burne Falls,  and  thence  along  the  Deerfield  River  to  the 
western  end  of  the  tunnel. 

MONADNOCK   MOUNTAIN. 

Just  as  the  train  approaches  Vernon  Station,  the  sum- 
mit of  Monadnock,  30  miles  eastward,  in  JafFrey,  N.  H., 
can  be  seen  through  the  valley  of  the  Ashuelot.  It  is 
3450  feet  above  the  sea,  and  ^s  the  first  land  seen  by  sail- 


52 


LAKES,    RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


ors  entering  Boston  Harbor  from  European  ports.  In  clear 
weather,  Bunker  Ilill  Monument  can  be  seen  with  the  aid 
of  the  glass.  From  the  summit,  forty  lakes  and  a  large 
number  of  villages  are  in  full  view,  and  the  scenery  around 
the  mountain  is  grand  and  beautiful.  A  large  hotel  has 
been  erected  half-way  to  the  summit,  and  is  under  the 
management  of  George  D.  Rice.  To  reach  it  from  the 
Connecticut  Valley,  the  tourist  shoird  leave  the  train  at 
South- Vernon,  proceed  to  Keene  by  the  Ashuelot  Railway, 
and  thence  to  Troy  on  the  Cheshire  Railway,  from  which 
place  a  stage  runs  to  the  hotel,  5  miles  distant.  Boston 
people  can  leave  the  city  by  the  early  morning  train,  visit 
the  mountain,  and  return  home  the  same  day. 


m 


BIIATTLEBORO. 

Brattleboro  is  a  bewitching  country  town,  distant  194 
miles  from  New-York,  250  from  Montreal,  and  125  from 
the  White  Mountains.  It  is  noted  for  its  water-cure, 
insane  hospital,  and  as  a  once  favorite  resort  of  Daniel 
Webster.  Larkin  G.  Mead,  the  artist,  calls  this  his  home. 
The  Wesselhoeft  House  is  a  very  pleasant  summer  house. 

Opposite  Brattleboro,  on  the  east  side  of  the  Connecticut, 
are  Wantastiquet  and  Mine  Mountains,  the  former  rising 
from  the  river  to  the  height  of  1061  feet.  The  latter 
extends  eastward  from  Wantastiquet,  and  is  only  sepa- 
rated from  it  by  a  narrow  gorge.  During  the  latter  part 
of  the  last  century,  a  party  sunk  a  shaft  many  feet  into 
the  solid  rock  on  Mine  Mountain,  in  search  of  silver,  which 
they  had  incredulously  been  led  to  believe  existed  there ; 
but  after  the  expenditure  of  a  large  sum  of  money,  the 
enterprise  was  abandoned. 


LAKES,   RIVERS,  AND  MOUNTAINS. 


53 


BELLOWS    FALLS. 


e: 


1 


Opposite  Bellows  Falls  Village,  in  New-Hampshire,  is 
Mount  Kilburn,  formerly  known  as  Fall  Mountain.  It  is  a 
little  over  800  feet  high,  and  from  the  summit  a  fine  view 
of  the  village  and  the  distant  mountain  peaks  is  had.  The 
early  settlers  gave  it  the  name  of  Fall  Mountain  from  the 
fact  that  at  its  base  are  the  Great  Falls  in  the  Connecticut. 
In  1850,  President  Hitchcock  and  the  students  of  Amherst 
and  Middlebury  Colleges  met  at  Bellows  Falls,  and  chris* 
tened  it  Mount  Kilburn,  in  honor  of  the  hero  who  fought 
the  Indians  so  gallantly  from  his  little  fort,  just  below  the 
south  end  of  the  mountain. 

Bellows  Falls  received  its  name  from  Col.  Bellows,  the 
founder  of  Walpole,  and  it  was  formerly  a  great  fishing 
place  w4th  the  Indians,  who  came  here  to  cstch  shad  and 
salmon. 

The  first  bridge  across  the  Connecticut  was  built  at  this 
place  in  1785,  and  was  365  feet  in  length.  For  eleven 
years  it  was  the  only  bridge  across  this  river. 

A  canal,  nearly  half  a  mile  in  length,  was  constructed 
many  years  ago  around  the  falls  on  the  western  side,  and 
it  was  thought  that  a  large  manufacturing  village  would 
at  some  future  day  be  built  here. 

Summer  tourists  have,  of  late  years,  spent  considerable 
time  here.  The  drives  in  the  vicinity  are  very  pleasant. 
A  favorite  one  with  old  residents  is  to  Warner's  Pond,  in 
Alstead,  N.  H.,  wl;ere  picnics  are  held. 

The  Island  House,  kept  by  Mr.  Charles  Towns,  is  one  of 
the  best  in  the  State,  and  has  long  been  a  favorite  with 
tourists.  It  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  eminence  east  of 
the  station,  and  overlooks  the  river  and  valley. 


54 


LAKES,   mVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


ASCUTNEY  MOUNTAIN. 

This  mountain,  which  is  seen  on  the  west  side  of  the  Con- 
necticut, is  3320  feet  high,  and  is  situated  in  Windsor  and 
Wethersfiehl,  Vt.  It  is  an  isolated  peak,  and  its  bold  and 
rocky  summit  forms  a  prominent  feature  in  the  landscape 
for  many  miles  around.  Three  deep  valleys  course  tlieir 
way  down  the  western  side  of  the  mountain,  and  from  this 
fact  it  is  stated  that  the  Indians  called  it  Ascutney,  signi- 
fying "  Three  Brothers."  The  view  from  the  sunmiit  is 
the  most  grand  and  extensive  of  any  in  Eastern  Vermont. 
Below  is  the  beautiful  Connecticut,  winding  itself  among 
the  hills  and  forests,  while  hundreds  of  farm-houses  and 
villages  are  scattered  seemingly  over  a  vast  plain.  A  road 
has  been  constructed  from  Windsor  to  the  summit,  a  dis- 
tance of  5  miles,  and  horses  and  guides  can  be  obtained 
of  Mr.  Cushing,  of  the  Windsor  House,  at  Windsor.  There 
IS  a  rude  house  on  the  mountain,  to  protect  the  tourist  in 
case  of  storm. 

WHITE   KIVER    JUNCTION. 

White  River  Junction  is  one  of  the  most  important  rail- 
road stations  on  the  line.  From  this  jjoint  trains  from  the 
North,  South,  East,  and  West  meet.  The  Vermont  Central 
Railway  here  passes  into  the  valley  of  White  River,  and 
pursues  a  more  westerly  course,  while  tl  Northern  New- 
Hampshire  road,  forming  a  junction  with  it,  crosses  the 
Connecticut  and  connects  at  Concord,  N.  H.,  with  other 
roads  leading  into  Boston.  The  Connecticut  and  Viva- 
3umpsic  Rivers  Railway  extends  from  this  place  in  a 
northerly  course,  crossing  White  River  at  its  mouth,  just 
north  of  the  station,  to  Newport,  on  Lake  Mempliremagog, 
passing  through  the  rich  and  fertile  valleys  of  the  Con- 
necticut and  Passumpsic  Rivers.    Travelers  to  the  White 


LAKES,    mVERS,    AND   MOUNTAINS. 


65 


■i; 


Mountains  tako  this  railway  to  Wulls  River,  wlioro  tlioy 
conn«'<  t  witli  the  railway  to  Littleton,  and  thonco  by  staj^i^ 
to  tlio  various  points  in  the  mountains. 

Ill  ffoing  either  to  tlio  White  Mountains  or  Mount  Man»= 
field,  thero  is  no  change  of  cars  at  White  River  Junction. 
If  the  tourist  is  goinj?  to  tlio  White  Mountains,  ho  should 
take  a  seat  in  the  forward  car  hefore  reaching  the  Junc- 
tion ;  and  if  to  Mount  Mansfield,  in  the  rear,  or  one  of  the 
Vermont  Central  cars. 

TrainH  stop  for  dinner  at  Wliito  River  Junction,  and  if 
the  White  Mountain  traveler  desires  rest,  the  Junction 
House  "Will  conif(jrtably  accommodate  him  over  night. 

TO  MOUNT  MANSFIELD  AND  MONTREAL. 

The  first  place  of  importance  that  tourists  pass  on  the 
Vermont  Central  Railway,  on  their  way  to  Mansfield  or 
Montreal,  is  Montpelier.  It  is  reached  by  a  short  branch 
road  from  Montpelier  Junction  ;  and  although  a  little  out 
of  the  way,  is  nevertheless  well  worthy  a  visit. 

Leaving  Montpelier  Junction,  the  tourist  enttsrs  the 
beautiful  valley  of  the  Winooski.  Her*'  is  seen  Camel's 
Hump,  the  second  highest  peak  in  the  State. 

At  Waterbur}  Station,  73  miles  from  White  River  Junc- 
tion and  31  miles  from  Burlington,  the  tourist  h  ives  the 
railway  to  visit  Mount  Mansfield,  going  10  miles  north  by 
stage  to  Stowe,  where  there  is  the  largest  and  most  com- 
plete summer  hotel  in  the  State.  This  village  is  situated 
in  quite  an  extensive  valley,  surrounded  by  beautiful  hills 
and  lofty  mountain  peaks,  and  for  a  quiet  summer  resort 
it  has  few  equal  ^.  The  Waterbury  Hotel,  kept  by  Mr.  N. 
P.  Keeler,  capable  of  accommodating  100  guests,  was 
recently  built,  and  has  no  superior  for  the  accommodation 
of  tourists.     The  drives  to  Bolton  Falls,  3  miles    .vest. 


60 


LAKES,    RIVERS,    AND   MOUXTAINB. 


wlifTo  tlnT<'  iH  a  luitiiral  brld^ci  over  tho  rlvc^r,  ar.l  ^  nillrH 
to  CanicrH  llimii),  as  well  an  tin;  many  othcrH,  an  [Oi'asant 
an<l  cliariuin^. 

To  viHit  Mount  iManHflold,  you  will  Ic^avo  tlui  rniKvay  at 
\N^\t(>rl)iiry  and  take;  th'^  Htajro  to  Stowe,  10  miles  imrtli- 
ward.  'V\w  siinimlt  of  MansHeld  in  H  miles  iroiii  Stowi?, 
but  this  is  the  head<iuarters  of  mountain  visitors,  as  here 
is  tlio  spacious  ManHticdd  House,  and  h(^re  hors(!S  and  car- 
riages are  provided  for  those  ffoin^  to  the  mountain. 

The  principal  drives  are  to  Mount  Mansfield,  8  miles; 
Smupf^lers'  Notch,  8  miles — one  of  the  most  "vvild  and 
romantic  places  in  the  country  ;  Binn^ham's  Falls,  ij  miles; 
Moss  (illen  Falls,  J3.}  miles;  (iold  Brook,  3  miles;  West 
Hill,  2  miles;  Morrisville  Falls,  8  miles;  Johnson  Falls, 
12  miles  ;  Ntjbraska,  (j  miles. 

During  the  summer  the  sta<?es  from  Rtowe  to  Water- 
bury  connect  with  all  the  x)rincii)al  trains. 

Burlino;ton  and  Baint  Albans  are  the  two  places  of  impor- 
tance on  the  line  of  the  Vermont  Central  between  JNIount 
Mansfield  and  Montreal.  The  former  of  these  placets  is 
more  fully  described  under  the  heading  of  Lake  Ciiam- 

PLAIN. 


TO  WHITE  MOUNTAINS  AND  LAKE  MEMPHREMAGOG. 

Returning  to  White  River  Junction,  let  us  continue  our 
journey  up  the  Connecticut  Valley  proper,  and  to  the 
grand  old  White  Hills. 

First  in  interest  we  pass  Hanover,  which  is  the  home  of 
Dartmouth  College.  Oxford  is  next  in  interest,  owing  to 
its  popularity  as  a  summer  resort.  It  is  one  of  the  most 
delightful  places  in  New-Hampshire. 

Bradford  is  the  second  most  important  town  on  the  route 
from  White  River  Junction  to  Newport,  Vt. 


loasunt 
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The  Plume,  White  Mountains. 


le  route 


LAKES,    RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


57 


T 


In  the  nortli-west  part  of  the  town,  in  Wright's  Moun- 
tain, is  a  cave  with  several  apartments,  called  Devil's  Den. 
It  is  thought  to  have  once  been  the  abode  of  human 
beings. 

In  this  town,  in  1813,  was  manufactured,  by  James  Wil- 
son, the  first  artificial  globe  made  in  the  United  States. 

Newbury  is  one  of  the  oldest  towns  on  the  upper  Con- 
necticut, and  few  places  present  greater  attractions  for  a 
quiet  summer  residence.  Here  are  the  celebrated  Noav- 
bury  Sulphur  Springs,  long  known  to  invalids  in  New- 
England.  They  are  in  the  valley,  east  of  the  depot,  where 
a  bath-house  has  been  fitted  up.  An  analysis  of  the  water 
has  been  made,  and  it  is  highly  recommended  by  able 
physicians. 

Directly  in  the  rear  of  Newbury  is  Mount  Pulaski,  an 
elevation  easy  of  access,  and  from  it  can  be  seen  a  wide 
extent  of  country.  The  tourist  should  ascend  its  summit 
and  look  upon  the  scenery  spread  before  him.  To  the 
right  is  the  valley  of  Haverhill,  with  its  long  street,  and 
directly  east  is  Moose  Hillock.  To  the  left  of  it  are  Sugar 
Loaf  and  Black  Mountains.  Further  beyond,  in  the  north- 
east, are  the  Franconia  Mountains,  and  in  a  pleasant  day 
Franconia  Notch  can  be  seen,  through  wdiich  tourists  pass 
to  the  White  Mountains.  The  Profile  House  is  only  about 
25  miles  from  Newbury. 

Leaving  Newbury  and  passing  the  Great  Ox-Bow,  you 
soon  come  to  the  pleasant  village  of  Wells  River,  in  the 
town  of  Newbury,  40  miles  from  White  River  Junction. 
Here  White  Mountain  tourists  change  cars  for  Littleton,  it 
being  the  junction  of  the  Boston  and  Montreal  and  White 
Mountains  Railways.  It  is  20  miles  to  Littleton,  from 
which  travelers  go  by  stage  11  miles  to  the  Profile  House, 


58 


LAKES,   RIVERS,    AND   MOUlSTrAINS. 


and  22  to  tlie  Crawford  House.     The  view  at  tins  point  is 


magnificent. 


^]   I 


NORTH  OF  THE  WHITE  MOUNTAINS. 

A  short  distance  above  the  mouth  of  the  Passumpsic, 
you  come  to  McLeran's.  Before  the  railway  was  built 
from  Wells  River  to  Littleton,  this  was  the  starting-point 
for  stages  to  the  White  Mountains.  The  falls  in  the  x^as- 
sumpsic  will  be  noticed  on  the  right. 

After  Passumpsic,  the  tourist  next  passes  Saint  Johns- 
bury,  a  beautiful  town,  made  famous  by  the  Messrs.  Fair- 
banks, of  scale  notoriety. 

Sixteen  miles  from  Saint  Johnsbury,  yon  reach  West- 
Burke,  near  which  is  Burke  Mountain,  2000  feet  in  height. 
At  this  station  passengers  leave  the  railway  for  Lake  Wil- 
loughby,  6  miles  distant.  Mr.  David  Trull,  proprietor 
of  the  West-Burke  Hotel,  near  the  station,  will  furnish 
the  tourist  conveyance  to  that  place  on  the  arrival  of 
the  trains.  Willoughby  is  one  of  the  must  remarkable 
lakes  in  this  country.  It  lies  between  two  mountains, 
which  rise  abruptly  from  its  shores  to  the  height  of  nearly 
2000  feet.  The  lake  is  from  half  a  mile  to  2  miles  wide, 
and  is  6  miles  long.  The  water  is  so 'deep,  in  places, 
that  no  bottom  has  been  found.  Mr.  Alonzo  Bemis  has 
erected  a  large  hotel  at  the  south  end  of  the  lake,  where 
tourists  can  get  good  accommodations.  It  is  a  wild  and 
romantic  spot,  and  to  the  lover  of  nature  it  presents  many 
attractions.  Mr.  Robert  Van  Arsdale,  of  Newark,  N.  J., 
has  built  a  summer  residence  at  the  south  end  of  the  lake, 
and  spends  the  summer  months  here.  A  good  view  of 
Willoughby  Mountain,  rising  from  the  east  shore  of  the 
lake,  is  had  before  you  reach  West-Burke  Station. 

Barton  Landing,  a  few  miles  farther  north,  is  the  point 


LAKES,    RIVEES,    AND    MOUNTAINS. 


59 


from  which  stages  run  to  the  delightful  village  of  Iras- 
burg,  3^  miles  westward.  The  Irasburg  House,  kept  by 
Rufus  B.  Richardson,  will  accommodate  about  100  guests. 

Leaving  Barton  Landing,  you  soon  reach  Coventry  Sta- 
tion. Continuing  northward,  you  come  to  a  bay  connected 
with  Lake  Mempremagog.  Passing  along  its  eastern 
bank,  you  cross  it  on  a  spile-bridge,  and  in  a  few  minutes 
are  landed  in  front  of  Memphremagog  House  in  Newport, 
upon  the  shore  of  the  lake. 

Fuller  descriptions  of  Lake  Memphremagog  and  Mount 
Mansfield  are  given  elsewhere. 

This  completes  the  routes  of  the  Connecticut  Valley, 
unless,  perchance,  one  desires  to  go  to  the  source  of  the 
Connecticut  River  and  catch  trout  in  beautiful  Lake  Um- 
bagog — a  thing  wdiich  we  advise  young  men  to  do.  There 
are  no  hotels  upon  the  shores  of  the  lake,  but  there  are 
pleasant  farm-houses. 

Speaking  of  the  Connecticut  Valley  last  season,  the 
Springfield  Republican  said :  "  All  through  the  Connecti- 
cut Valley  we  find  each  year  increasing  numbers  of  sum- 
mer visitors.  The  beautifully  shaded  villages  from  Hart- 
ford to  Lancaster  all  have  more  or  less  city  boarders. 
Some,  like  Brattleboro,  Northampton,  Deerfield,  Walpole, 
Windsor,  Charlestown,  Haverhill,  Hanover,  Orford,  Lan- 
caster, are  noted  resorts,  and  are  gay  through  the  summer 
weeks  with  the  people  and  the  fashions  of  the  towns. 
Brattleboro  has  fewer  guests,  however,  this  year  than 
usual;  Orford,  with  many  lust  season,  has  scarcely  any 
now;  but  the  others  have  full  complements;  and  these 
quiet  and  almost  decaying  old  towns  are  wakened  into 
new  vitality  by  this  new  branch  of  industry,  to  wit, '  board- 
ing.' Their  ar.  lent  hotels  are  brushing  the  cobwebs  off 
the  traditions  of  their  staging  days,  and  the  ci\11ization  of 


eo 


LAKES,    RIVERS,    AND   MOUNTAINS. 


New- York  and  Boston  more  and  more  permeates  and 
unsettles  society  in  the  remotest  of  country  towns. 

"  Springfield,  tliougli  as  invitinrr  as  Northampton  or 
Brattleboro,  entertains  but  few  at  this  season.  We  feel 
our  city  pride,  and  must  go,  instead  of  bidding  our  friends 
to  come.  The  mountains  and  the  seashore  are  our  favorite 
resorts.  These  hill-towns  to  the  west  of  us,  like  Bland- 
ford  and  Chester,  take  a  few  visitors,  and  could  have  hun- 
dreds of  our  citizens  and  their  families,  if  they  would  but 
provide  comfortable  board  for  them.  The  air  of  their  hills 
is  in  marked  contrast,  in  dryness  and  coolness,  to  that  of  the 
town,  and  many  an  invalid  person  or  child  is  revived  by 
even  a  few  days'  visit  to  them.  But  the  people  of  these 
villages  upon  the  hills  seem  too  unenterprising  or  unintel- 
ligent to  meet  the  demand  for  accommodations.  They 
will  soon  learn  their  opportunity  and  improve  it,  however. 
The  chance  is  too  good  a  one  to  be  long  neglected." 


I    ^ 


THE    WHITE    M0U:NTAINS.      ^ 

When  to  Go. — "  It  is  to  be  regretted,"  says  Starr  King, 
"  that  the  mountains  are  not  visited  during  the  splendid 
days  of  the  early  summer.  From  the  middle  of  June  to 
the  middle  of  July,  foliage  is  more  fresh ;  the  cloud-sce- 
nery is  nobler  ;  the  meadow-grass  has  a  more  golden  color  ; 
the  streams  are  usually  more  full  and  musical ;  and  there 
is  a  larger  proportion  of  the  '  long  light'  of  the  afternoon, 
which  kindles  the  landscape  into  the  richest  loveliness. 
The  mass  of  visitors  to  the  White  Mountains  go  during 
the  dog-days,  and  leave  when  the  finer  September  weather 
sets  in  with  its  prelude  touches  of  the  October  splendor. 
In  August  there  are  fewer  clear  skies  ;  there  is  more  fog  ; 
the  meadows  are  appareled  in  more  sober  green  ;   the 


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LAKES,    RIVERS,    AND   MOUNTATXS. 


61 


lii<]fhost  rocky  cr«;.sts  may  bo  wrapped  in  mistrt  for  days  in 
Biiccesaion  ;  and  a  travtilor  has  I'cwer  chances  of  makin«^ 
acquauitanoo  with  a  bracinjr  mountain  broozo.  The  hitter 
half  of  Juno  is  the  blossom  season  of  beauty  in  the  moun- 
tain districts  ;  the  first  half  of  October  is  the  time  of  its 
full-hued  fruitage." 

How  TO  Go. — For  tourists  whose  time  or  purse  will  not 
permit  them  to  journey  "  across  the  continent,"  the  White 
Mountains  of  New-llampshire  are  the  chief,  as  they  are 
the  most  fashionable,  of  all  mountain  resorts  in  tlui 
United  States.  They  cover  an  area  of  about  40  miles 
square,  in  Coos  county,  Northern  New-IIampshire,  and, 
under  the  general  title  of  the  "  White  Hills,"  two  groups 
of  mountains  are  included  ;  one,  the  Mount  Washington 
chain,  or  the  White  Mountains  proper ;  the  other,  tluj 
Franconia  range,  of  which  Mount  Lafayette,  1000  feet 
lower  than  Mount  Washington,  is  the  highest  summit. 
To  these  two,  the  highest  ranges  of  the  mountains  of 
New-Hampshire,  there  are  four  avenues  of  approach  :  the 
valleys  of  the  Saco,  the  Merrimack — or  rather  the  Pemi- 
gewasset,  its  main  source — the  Androscoggin,  and  the  trib- 
utaries of  the  Connecticut.  Railways  connect  with  every 
one  of  these  natural  paths,  except  the  Saco  ;  and,  by  each 
line,  one  may  reach  some  point  among  the  highest  hills 
on  the  evening  of  the  same  day  that  lie  leaves  Boston,  or 
in  about  17  hours  from  New- York. 

Briefly,  the  advantages  of  these  several  routes  are  as 
follows  :  by  the  Androscoggin  valley  to  Gorliam,  (giving 
this  as  the  chief  point  of  arrival,)  the  quickest  access  to 
the  Mount  Washington  chain  is  afforded,  (although  the 
Saco  Valley  route  reaches  the  Notch  most  speedily,)  bring- 
ing the  tourist  to  the  extreme  eastern  declivities.  By  the 
Saco  Valley  to  Weirs,  Centre  Harbor,  or  Alton,  on  Lako 


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62 


LAKES,   BIVERS,   AND  MOUNTAINS. 


W' 


Winnipisiogee,  (pronounced,  but  improperly  spelled,  Win* 
nipesaukee,)  the  tourist  comes  to  the  western  borders  of 
the  Mount  Washington  chain  by  the  delightful  lakfj- 
route,  the  most  generally  chosen  of  all  the  approaches  to 
the  whole  region.  By  the  Pemigewasset  (or  Merrimack) 
Valley  to  Plymouth,  the  quickest  access  to  the  Franconia 
chain  is  afforded,  coming  from  the  south-east.  And  lastly, 
by  the  Connecticut  Valley  to  Littleton,  the  north-western 
borders  of  the  Franconia  chain  are  reached,  with  15  miles 
less  staging  than  by  the  Pemigewasset  Valley ;  or  the 
White  Mountain  Notch  may  be  reached  more  quickly  by 
this  way  than  by  either  of  the  other  three,  with  the  ad- 
ditional advantage  (if  so  esteemed)  that  the  highest  ranges 
are  seen  first  of  all.  With  this  general  view  of  the  "  lay 
of  the  land,"  we  proceed  to  give  the  principal  routes 
which  may  enable  the  tourist,  coming  from  New- York  or 
Boston,  to  enter  the  mountain  region  by  each  of  the  four 
valleys  respectively.  And,  as  most  of  the  routes  properly 
begin  at  Boston,  we  may  first  state,  summarily,  the  best 
routes  thither  from  New- York  City. 

The  finest  "  Sound  steamers"  are  now  the  Bristol  and 
the  Proviuence,  leaving  Pier  40,  North  River,  every  day  at 
5  P.M.  By  these,  passengers  go  as  far  as  Bristol,  Ct., 
whence  proceed  by  rail  to  Boston,  5^  A.M.  Fare,  $5; 
supper  on  board,  $1 ;  the  same  prices  on  all  boats.  After 
these,  there  are  the  Fall  River  boats,  5  p.m..  Pier  28,  North 
River,  trans  ferring  the  passenger  to  railway  at  Newport, 
reaching  Boston  "  in  time  for  morning  trains."  Also,  the 
New-London  steamboats,  5  p.m.,  Pier  39,  North  River, 
transferring  to  the  New-London  and  Northern  and  the 
Worcester  Railways,  thence  to  Boston  in  early  morning. 
And,  finally,  there  are  two  all-rail  routes,  the  Springfield 
and  Worcester  line,  and  the  Shore  line  (two  ferries  this 


•^ 


tlie 
lis 


i 


i 


LAKES,    RIVERS, 


AND   MOUNTAINS. 


63 


way)  by  Now-London  and  Providence ;  both  start  from 
Twenty-seventh  street  depot  at  8  A.M.  and  8  p.m.,  (Sun- 
days, 5  P.M.,)  reaching  Boston  at  4  p.m.  and  G  a.m., 
(Mondays,  3  A.M. ;)  elegant  compartment-cars  (English 
style)  on  day  train,  and  good  sleeping-cars  at  night,  at  ex- 
tra charges.    Railway  fare,  $6. 

Androscoggin  Valley  Route. — Starting  now  anew 
from  Boston,  the  traveler  choosmg  the  Androscoggin  Val- 
ley route  will  take  the  Boston  and  Maine  Railway  to  Port- 
land, from  Ilaymarket  square,  passing  the  famous  Phillips 
Academies  of  Andover,  Mass.,  and  Exeter,  N.  H.,  on  his 
journey ;  or  the  Eastern  Railway  f  3m  Causeway  street, 
passing  through  Lynn,  Salem,  and  Newburyport,  Mass., 
and  Portsmouth,  N.  H. — (the  two  roads  unite  at  ^outh- 
Berwick,  Me.) — or  by  boat  from  India  wharf  daily,  (except 
Sunday,)  at  7  P.M. ;  or  from  Commercial  wharf  Mondays, 
Wednesdays,  and  Fridays,  at  8  a.m.,  to  Portland ;  thence, 
by  Gland  Trunk  Railway,  to  Gorliam,  where  is  the  Alpine 
House  ;  stage  to  Glen  House.  Time  by  this  route — New- 
York  to  Boston,  say  11  hours ;  Boston  to  Portland,  5 
hours ;  Portland  to  Gorliam,  4  or  5  hours ;  say  24  hours 
from  New- York  to  Gorliam. 

Saco  Valley  Route. — The  favorite  lake-trip  over  Win- 
nipisiogee  has  the  following  varieties,  all  good  :  From  Bos- 
ton, by  Boston  and  Lowell  and  Concord  Railways,  or  by  Bos 
ton  and  Maine,  and  Concord,  Manchester,  and  Lawrence 
Railways,  to  Concord,  N.  H. ;  thence  by  Boston,  Concord, 
and  Montreal  Railway  to  Weirs,  on  the  lake ;  thence  by 
steamer  Lady  of  the  Lake,  30  miles,  to  Centre  Harbor  Or 
Wolfborough  ;  thence  by  stage  ma  North-Con  way  to  Glen 
House.  Or  from  Boston,  by  Boston  and  Maine  Railway, 
to  Dover,  N.  H. ;  thence  by  Dover  and  Winnipisiogee 
Railway  to  Alton,  steamer  Chocorua  to  Wolfborough  and 


64 


LAKES,   RIVERS,    AND   MOUNTAINS. 


I 


i 


;,  ( 


Centre  Harbor* stage  to  North-Conway.  The  distance 
from  Centre  Harbor  to  the  Crawford  House,  at  the  Notch,  is 
63  miles  ;  Conway  is  33  miles  from  that  hotel. 

Pemigewasset  Valley  Route. — By  the  Boston,  Con- 
cord, and  Montreal  Railway,  taking  trains  which  connect 
with  that  road  from  the  station  either  of  the  Boston  and 
Maine  or  the  Boston  and  Lowell  Railway,  the  traveler 
bound  for  the  Franconia  Mountains  reaches  Plymouth, 
N.  H.,  120  miles  from  Boston,  a  little  after  noon.  Having 
dined  in  Plymouth,  he  takes  the  stage  for  the  Profile 
House,  in  the  Franconia  Notch,  30  miles  distant,  which 
will  be  reached  before  sunset.  The  old  Flume  House  has 
gone  to  decay. 

Connecticut  Valley  Route. — The  same  train  which 
is  left  at  Plymouth  by  those  who  wish  to  go  directly  by 
stage  to  the  Profile  House,  will  carry  passengers  some  70 
miles  north  of  Plymouth,  to  Littleton.  This  village  is  on 
the  Lower  Ammonoosuc  River,  very  near  its  junction  with 
the  Connecticut.  The  cars  that  leave  Boston  in  the  morn- 
ing reach  Littleton  about  5  in  the  afternoon.  From  Lit- 
tleton it  is  11  miles  to  the  Profile  House  in  the  Franconia 
Notch,  and  23  miles  to  the  Crawford  House,  near  the 
White  Mountain  Notch. 

Other  Routes  not  by  Boston. — Of  course,  there  is 
an  endless  variety  of  routes  beside  the  ones  already 
named ;  but  the  +ourist  will  not  thank  us  for  multiplying 
his  portable  pages  beyond  necessity.  We  may  add,  to  his 
great  benefit,  three  routes  only,  which  seek  the  White 
Mountains  by  a  shorter  eastward  journey  than  those  which 
traverse  Boston.  The  first  proceeds,  by  the  Boston  express 
train  from  Twenty-seventh  street  depot,  or  by  boat  and 
rail  through  Norwich,  to  Worcester,  Massachusetts,  thence 
direct  by  the  Worcester  and  Nashua  and  Concord  Railways 


! 


LAKES,    RIVERS,    AND   3I0UNTAINS. 


65 


to  Concord,  whence  he  may  proceed,  as  already  described, 
to  Weirs,  Plymouth,  or  Littleton,  which  are  distant  from 
Concord  in  the  order  named.  The  second  route  Sk'arts  from 
Twenty-seventh  street  also,  and  proceeds  to  Springfield, 
Massachusetts.  Here  the  traveler  changes  to  the  Connec- 
ticut River  road,  and  pursues  its  connections  through  Brat- 
tleboro.  Bellows  Falls,  White  River  Junction,  and  Wells 
River  to  Littleton.  To  the  tourist  who  is  already  familiar 
with  the  Hudson,  but  not  yet  with  the  quieter  Connecti- 
cut, this  route,  (although  it  can  not  include  the  lower 
river,)  following,  as  it  does,  the  latter  stream  all  the  way 
from  Hartford  nearly  to  its  fountains,  can  not  be  equaled 
for  attractiveness  ;  and  the  whole  day  which  it  consumes 
beyond  the  time  of  the  routes  already  named  will  by  no 
means  be  wasted  in  its  enjoyment.  The  third  route,  also 
occupying  two  days,  is  the  finest  possible  of  all  the  list, 
including  the  Hudson  River  trip  (see  article  Along  the 
Hudson  for  routes  to  Troy)  and  that  on  the  Connecticut 
River,  just  given,  beyond  Bellows  Falls,  beside  the  beauti- 
ful mountainous  region  of  Western  Vermont.  The  traveler 
will  reach  Troy  by  rail  or  boat  from  New- York,  and  go 
thence  to  Rutland  through  Eagle  Bridge,  (it  is  useless  to 
undertake  to  say  by  what  road,  until  the  interminable 
railway  quarrels  in  Western  Vermont  may  be  somewhat 
quieted,)  remaining  over  night ;  leave  in  the  morning  by 
Rutland  and  Burlington  Railway  for  Bellows  Falls,  and 
thereafter  pursue  the  course  of  the  route  just  given.  This 
completes  the  long  list  of  routes  which  may  be  confident- 
ly recommended. 

Where  to  Stay. — Arriving  at  Gorham,  the  traveler 
may  make  either  the  Alpine  or  the  Glen  House  his  point 
of  departure  for  the  Mount  Washington  chain.      The 


66 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


■< 


Crawford  House  is  situated  upon  tlie  other  (the  west)  side 
of  Mount  Washington. 

The  Alpine  House  is  situated  in  the  valley  at  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Androscoggin  and  Peabody  Rivers.  The  valley 
is  800  feet  above  the  sea,  and  its  breadth  is  so  great  that 
the  air  is  more  dry,  pure,  and  bracing  than  in  the  more 
narrow  passes  directly  under  the  lofty  summits.  The  pro- 
prietor is  Mr.  J.  R.  Hitchcock.  The  house  may  be  reached 
either  by  Grand  Trunk  Railway  to  Gorham  or  by  stage  from 
Centre  Harbor  ma  North-Conway  and  the  Glen,  or  from 
lattleton  via  Bethlehem,  Crawford  House,  White  Moun- 
tain Notch,  and  Glen  House ;  or  by  way  of  Lancaster  and 
Jefferson,  (Waumbeck  House.)  There  is  a  post-oiRce  and  a 
telegraph  station  near  by.  Post-oflBce  address,  Gorham, 
N.  H.  The  house  is  open  all  the  year.  Terms,  $4  per 
day.  From  this  point  there  is  a  fine  road  all  the  way — 16 
miles — to  the  Tip-Top  House  on  the  summit  of  Mount 
Washington.  The  distance  to  the  base,  at  Glen  House,  is 
8  miles.  Trains  arrive  at  Gorham  from  Portland  at  11 
A.M.  and  6  P.M. ;  leave  at  12  midnight  and  9  a.m.  for  Port- 
land. 

The  Glen  House,  8  miles  by  stage  south  from  Gorham, 
stands  on  a  plateau,  830  feet  above  the  Gorham  valley,  and 
1632  feet  above  tide-water  at  Portland,  in  the  midst  of  a 
magnificent  mountain  bowl.  No  public  house  among  the 
mountains  is  situated  so  near  the  Mount  Washington  range 
as  this,  four  of  the  highest  summits  being  in  full  view,  di- 
rectly in  front  of  the  hotel.  (The  height  of  Mount  Wash- 
ington is  6285  feet ;  Mount  Clay,  54O0 ;  Mount  Adams, 
5800  ;  Mount  Madison,  5361 ;  Mount  Jefferson,  5700.)  Mr. 
J.  M.  Thompson  is  proprietor  of  the  Glen  House,  and  can 
make  room  for  500  guests  from  June  1st  till  October  16th. 
There  is  a  telegraph  and  a  post-station  in  the  house.    Ad- 


5 


WiOBHaaSBAii 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND  MOTJNTAtXS. 


67 


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dress,  Glen  House,  N.  H.  Price  of  board,  $4  per  day. 
Stages  leave  for  the  Crawford  House  and  North-Conway 
at  8  A.M. ;  for  Gorliam  in  time  to  connect  with  trains.  The 
Notch  is  on  the  Crawford  road,  near  that  hotel.  The  as- 
cent of  Mount  Washington  is  now  most  commonly  made 
from  the  Glen  House  and  the  Alpine  House,  by  the  famous 
carriage-road  commenced  in  1855  and  fully  completed  in 
1861.  The  average  grade  is  12  feet  in  100,  and  the  steep- 
est grade  in  any  part,  which,  strange  to  say,  is  about  2^ 
miles  from  the  base,  is  16  feet  in  100  for  a  short  distance. 
The  bridle-path  formerly  went  up  the  mountain  side  in 
nearly  a  straight  line,  while  the  road  winds  around  the 
ledge  and  up  the  mountain-side,  making  nearly  double  the 
distance.  Most  travelers  deem  the  ascent  more  objection- 
able than  the  descent.  But  in  no  part  is  there  any  difficulty 
or  danger  in  the  ascent,  no  more  discomfort  being  experi- 
enced than  in  the  same  amount  of  carriage-riding  upon 
any  of  the  mountain  roads. 

The  tariff  of  tolls  on  the  carriage-road  is  as  follows : 

For  every  person  on  foot $0.32 

"  "          "       on  horseback, * 80 

"  "          "       in  carriages, 80 

"  "       snlky  with  one  horse, 6i 

"  "       carriage  with  4  wheels  for  2  persons, 64 

"  "          "         with  2  horses  and  4  wheels, 96 

"  "          "         with4horses, 1.28 

For  every  carriage  of  pleasure  or  otherwise,  the  like 
sums,  according  to  the  number  of  wheels  and  horses  draw- 
ing the  same.  Each  person  pays  the  toll  for  himself  in 
addition  to  the  price  for  his  seat  in  the  carriage,  and  the 
proprietor  pays  the  carriage-toll. 

The  Crawford  House,  100  rods  from  the  White  Moun- 
tain Notch,  and  in  the  midst  of  a  little  plateau  about  2000 


68 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


feet  above  the  sea,  is  kept  by  Messrs.  Doyle  and  Hartshorn, 
proprietors.  Post  and  telegraph  offices  in  the  house.  Board, 
$4.50  per  day ;  accommodations  for  250  guests.  The  hotel 
is  lighted  with  gas  throughout,  and  all  the  sleeping-rooms 
are  on  the  first  and  second  floors.  The  office  is  situated  in 
the  central  part  of  the  house,  and  generally  presents  as 
busy  a  scene  as  the  great  square  in  a  city.  Hither  every 
one  comes  to  talk  over  his  plans,  and  to  make  arrange- 
ments for  various  excursions,  or  for  continuing  his  journey 
to  other  points  of  interest.  One  should  be  careful,  as  soon 
as  he  arrives,  to  book  his  name  at  this  place  for  a  horse  to 
Mount  Washington,  if  he  intends  to  make  the  ascent  within 
a  few  days,  as  often  all  the  ponies  are  engaged  for  a  day  or 
two  beforehand.  The  price  of  a  horse  to  the  summit  and 
back,  with  guides  for  the  party,  is  $4  ;  the  bridle-path  is  9 
miles  in  asbent  to  the  Tip-Top  House.  The  steam  railway 
up  the  mountain  is  to  be  completed  by  the  opening  of  this 
(1808)  season,  and  its  base,  7  miles  from  the  hotel,  may  be 
reached  over  a  good  road.  The  nearness  of  the  summit  of 
Mount  Willard  is  one  of  the  attractions  at  the  Crawford  ; 
distance  only  3  miles,  over  a  good  bridle-path.  Stages 
arrive  at  the  House  from  Littleton  at  5  and  10  P.M. ;  from 
the  Profile  House  at  2  p.m.  ;  from  the  Glen  House  at 
5  P.M. ;  from  North-Conway  at  1  p.m.  Stages  leave 
house  for  Littleton  at  4  and  10  a.m.  ;  for  the  Profile  House, 
at  8  A.M. ;  for  the  Glen  House,  at  8  A.M. ;  and  for  Conway, 
at  8  A.M. 

The.  Tip-Top  House,  including  the  building  formerly 
known  as  the  Summit  House,  on  the  summit  of  Mount 
Washington,  more  than  6000  feet  above  the  sea,  is  a  mar- 
vel of  comfort  to  the  weary  traveler  who  has  for  hours 
been  longing  for  its  rest  and  convenience.  Mr.  J.  R. 
Hitchcock,  landlord  of  the  Alpine  House,  is  landlord  here 


LAKES,   RIVEE3,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


00 


)use, 
ray, 


also,  and  the  house  is  under  the  immediate  charp^e  of  Mr. 
A.  II.  Pahuer.  When  we  think  what  a  labor  it  has  been 
to  carry  all  provisions  to  such  an  elevation,  and  that  even 
fuel  must  be  taken  up  from  the  forests  far  below,  wo  can 
not  fail  to  admire  the  forethought  and  energy  that  hav(! 
kept  the  Summit  House  so  well.  Good  coffee  and  tea, 
with  milk,  fresh  eggs,  new  and  well-made  bread,  generally 
fresh  meats,  as  well  as  excellent  ham,  and  often  trout,  are 
found  on  the  plentifully  provided  table.  Those  who  as- 
cended Mount  Wasliington  before  there  was  any  shelter 
on  the  peak  from  gale  or  shower,  or  driving  scud,  or  snow 
squall,  that  often  awaited  and  overtook  them,  will  know 
how  those  are  favored  now  who  find  good  protection,  fire, 
and  a  hot  dinner  ready  on  the  top.  Sheets  of  paper  and 
envelopes,  each  with  an  engraving  of  the  Mountain  House 
and  Summit,  are  on  sale  there.  Letters  written  there  to 
friends  are  mailed  to  all  parts  of  the  country  by  the  pro- 
prietors of  the  hotel.  They  drop  the  summer  out  of  their 
calendar,  and  make  their  home  for  days  above  human 
fellowship,  amid  lightning  and  thunder,  blinding  fogs  and 
sweeping  sleet,  to  offer  such  service  to  travelers. 

The  Profile  House,  a  new  and  large  hotel,  accommodat- 
ing 500  guests,  open  from  June  1st  to  October  ICtli,  is 
situated  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Echo  Lake,  (lialf  a 
mile,)  Cannon  or  Profile  Mountain,  and  The  Profile,  (half 
a  mile,)  the  Flume  and  Pool,  (6  miles,)  and  Mount  La- 
fayette, (5  miles  over  bridle-path  to  summit.)  It  is  on  a 
level  plain,  a  few  acres  in  area,  in  the  bosom  of  the  hills, 
and  has  two  approaches :  on  the  north,  from  Bethlehem 
and  Littleton ;  on  the  south,  from  the  Flume  House  and 
Pemigewasset  Valley.  Terms,  $4.50  per  day ;  telegraph 
and  post-stations  in  the  house.  Stages  arrive  at  the  house 
from  Littleton  at  3  and  7^  p.m.  ;  from  Plymouth,  at  7  p.m. 


10 


LAKES,   EIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


; 


and  from  the  Crawford  House,  at  2  p.m.  Stages  leave  the 
liouso  for  Littleton,  7  a.m.  and  3  r.M. ;  for  Plymouth,  7 
A.M.,  (and  oftener  if  desired ;)  and  the  Crawford,  at  8  A.M. 

Tho  most  attractive  advertisement  of   the  Franconia 
Notch  to  the  traveling  public  is  the  rumor  of  the  Great 
Stone  Fa!^e,  that  hangs  upon  one  of  its  highest  cliffs.    If  its 
inclosing  walls  were  less  grand,  and  its  water  gems  less 
lovely,  travelers  would  be  still,  perhaps,  as  strongly  attract- 
ed to  the  spot,  that  they  might  see  a  mountain  which 
breaks  into  human  expression— a  piece  of  sculpture  older 
than  the  Sphinx— an  imitation  of  the  human  countenance, 
wliich  is  the  crown  of  all  beauty,  that  was  pushed  out 
from  the  corpse  strata  of  New-England  thousands  of  years 
before  Adam.    The  marvel  of  this  countenance,  outlined 
so  distinctly  against  the  sky  at  an  elevation  of  nearly 
1500  feet  above  the  road,  is  greatly  increased  by  the 
fact  that  it  is  composed  of  three  masses  of  rock  which 
are  not  in  perpendiccdar  line  with  each  other.    On  the 
brow  of  the  mountain  itself,  standing  on  the  visor  of  tho 
helmet  that  covers  the  face,  or  directly  underneath  it  on 
the  shore  of  the  little  lake,  there  is  no  intimation  of  any 
human  features  in  the  lawless  rocks.     Remove  but  a  few 
rods  either  -vay  from  the  guide-board  on  the  road,  where 
you  are  advised  to  look  up,  and  the  charm  is  dissolved. 
But  the  whole  mountain  from  which  the  Profile  starts  is 
one  of  the  noblest  specimens  of  majestic  rock  that  can  be 
seen  in  New-Hampshire.    One  may  tire  of    the  craggy 
countenance  sooner  than  of  the  sublime  front  and  vigor- 
ous slopes  of  Mount  Cannon  itself — especially  as  it  is  seen, 
with  its  great  patches  of  tawny  color,  in  driving  up  from 
the  lower  part  of  the  Notch  to  the  Profile  House. 

Other  hotels  which  are  not  actually  at  the  Mountains, 
but  Drove  to  be  necessary  to  the  traveler,  are  as  follows,  (a 


.^Uzz: 


leave  the 
nouth,  7 
it  8  A.M. 
ranconia 
le  Orcat 
s.    If  its 
sms  less 
r  attract- 
a  which 
ire  older 
benance, 
lied  out 
of  years 
outlined 
nearly 
by  the 
L  which 
On  the 
of  the 
it  on 
f  any 
a  few 
where 
lolved. 
,rts  is 
;an  be 

■aggy 
igor- 

1  seen, 
from 

jiains, 
^s,  (a 


\ 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS, 


n 


'',1 


I 


list  which  does  not,  of  course,  include  all  in  the  region, 
but  may  be  relied  on  as  accurate  and  entirely  adapted  for 
this  summer,  as  far  as  it  goes.) 

The  Bethlehem  House,  at  Bethlehem,  on  the  stage-road 
between  Littleton  (5  miles  distant)  and  the  Crawford— pass- 
ing the  old  Fabian— IIouso,  (17  miles  further,)  is  kept  by 
Mr.  K  R.  Abbott,  at  $3.50  per  day  for  transient  and  |8  to 
$15  per  week  for  permanent  boarders.  It  is  reached  only 
by  stages,  arriving  from  Littleton  at  1  and  6  p.m.  ;  from 
the  Profile  House,  at  10  A.M. ;  and  from  the  Crawford,  at  11 
A.M.  Stages  leave  Bethlehem  for  Littleton  at  7  A.M.  and 
2  r.M ;  for  the  Profile,  at  10^  A.M. ;  and  for  the  Crawford,  at 
11  ^  A.M.  Accommodations  for  200  guests  the  year  round ; 
post  and  telegraph  stations  convenient. 

The  old  Fabian  House  is  being  rebuilt. 

The  Lancaster  House,  16  miles  north  by  carriage-road 
from  Bethlehem,  is  also  open  the  year  round.  Proprietor, 
Mr.  E.  Stanton ;  accommodations  for  250  guests ;  board, 
$3.50  per  day,  or  $9  to  $15  per  week.  Bethlehem  is  a  postal 
station,  and  there  is  also  telegraphic  communication  with 
all  points.  The  Grand  Trunk  station,  connected  by  stage 
with  Lancaster,  is  Northumberland,  10  miles  to  the  north- 
east. Stages  arrive  at  Lancaster  from  trains  from  Port 
land  at  1  and  9  p.m.  ;  from  Montreal,  at  10  A.M.  Stages 
from  Littleton,  20  miles,  where  the  White  Mountain  Rail- 
way terminates  on  the  north,  arrive  at  9  P.M.  at  Lancaster. 
Stages  leave  Lancaster  for  Portland  {via  Northumberland) 
at  6  and  10  P.M. ;  for  Montreal,  at  6  p.m.  ;  for  Littleton  and 
White  Mountains  Railway  to  Wells  River  Junction,  at  5 
A.M.  The  location  of  this  house  is  an  excellent  one  for 
summer  boarding.  Good  board  may  also  be  obtained  at 
private  houses  in  the  village  for  $7  per  week. 

Sumner's  Hotel  is  located  at  the  post-town  of  Dalton, 


72 


1 1 


k 


^•VKKS,  BJVBKS,  AXB  MOU.VTA.Xs. 


'•n.st(.p     Tl.«««  •  "^  *"<^'  Matter  anrl  h  *•«       r 

'""'«  aro  $3  per  day,  and  «sT  /;.  '  ^''""«"''  ""d  tl.o 
-f 0  from  Littleton'  tstt    Jn^  f  ^'  "'^"''-     ^"'^-^ 
Saturdays,  and  leave  for  UtZJoT'"'  ''''"™''''^-'  "'"J 
The  VVau„,beek  House,  B  H  ;r„":'^r'''''^«''*«^«' 
"'«  postal  station  („o  te  elfpM  "f  ^V""'''^'''''  "  "« 
n»'e«  from  Lancaster  andTf  ^       "^"^'"'''"'  N.  II.,  8 
Booms  for  300  guests,  ZrTJ^T  ''^^-^-fora  II„„'J 
""^ek.    The  hotel  is  on  the  Wit  ^  ""''  ^'  *"  ^'^  I'-' 
from  Gorham,  (the  Alpine  l  ^T     ,      ^^""^  *^'''""«i''  road 
ain  Notch-a  ^^..T^    ,  "1"  *°  "^  ^hite  Mo„„ 
"■■•ect  road,  but  one  almost  alwai;","''^  '™'"  ">«  ""oat 
along  almost  the  whole  1  L^J^the      T'  '"'  "'"  "='-<^^y 
that  o^er  any  other  «tarrol!      """"  ''  »«">''«  ">"« 
,    When  Starr  King  wr^e  W  Ir/v""^  "'"  "^"""ntains. 
'anaented  the  want  of  a  hll  1      '''  ^'"''  '"  1859,  he 
-«,  remarking :  "  There  irrcfV" '^'""»''^<=''  "- 
o;- other  routes;  but  for  gldeu,     !??  *°  ''^  «"W<--1 
«t  studying  the  wildnessTd  1";    f  '"'  °PPo«uni.ies 
range,  the  Cherry  Moun7„  ''^"^  °^  t''"  sovereio-n 

New-Hampshire."  iZwZTll'^'''"^'  '^  ^'valn 
^ite  place  of  resort  for  t^L^'f  «--  -  also  a  favo 
«g  pure  mountain  air     St2l-    T  '^''''°"«  "^  "btaln- 
;f  the  house,  is  easily  ascJnTed?   '°""''''"' '"  *«  - - 
hotel,  With  a  glass,  ^JTonlt  „     °*  *^^  ^'^^'^  "^  the 
">fon  can  be  distLcfly  1""  ~!  "^  ^ount  Wash- 
hotel  to  the  White  MountaTn  lif  Ji       ''*''°'=^  ^""^  the 
Profile  House,  by  the  way  o    w^t  fi  I ''  "'"^^  '•  *"  «- 
28  miles;  to  the  Glen  House  bw^*'"'"  ""''  Bethlehem, 
o^  Madison,  .OmUes;toT:tilt,j:^-°^  . 


'^4 


LAKES,   RIVKBS,  AND  MOUNTAINS. 


78 


;humber- 
pom  Lan- 
open  all 
and  tlio 
Sta^ciS 
ays,  and 
at  6  A.M. 
or,  is  at 
^.  II.,  8 
House. 
$14  per 
ain  road 
B  Moun- 
18  most 
scenery 
er  than 
intains. 
^59,  he 
k  now 
njoyed 
unities 
ereign 
ral  in 
favo- 
tain- 
rear 
if  the 
^ash- 
the 
the 
em, 
ase 


THE   ASCENT   OF   MOUNT    WASHINGTON. 

ABRIDGED  FROM  THOMAS  STARR  KING'S  "  WHITE  HILLS." 

There  are  throo  paths  for  the  ascent  of  Mount  Wash- 
ington— one  from  the  Crawford  House  at  the  Notch,  one 
from  the  Whita  Mountain  House,  5  miles  beyond  the 
Notch,  and  one  from  the  Glen.  The  path  from  the  White 
Mountain  Ilcfuse  requires  the  shortest  horseback  ride. 
Parties  are  carried  by  wagons  up  the  side  of  Mount  Wash- 
ington to  a  point  less  than  3  miles  from  the  summit. 
The  bridle-path,  however,  is  quite  steep,  and  no  time  is 
gained  by  this  ascent.  The  rival  routes  are  those  from 
the  Notch  and  the  Glen.  Each  of  these  has  some  decided 
advantages  over  the  other.  The  Glen  route  is  the  short- 
est. For  the  first  4  miles  the  horses  keep  the  wide  and 
hard  track,  with  a  regular  ascent  of  1  foot  in  8,  which  was 
laid  out  for  a  carriage-road  to  the  summit,  but  never  com- 
pleted. This  is  a  great  gain  over  the  corduroy  a  •  "■  mud 
through  the  forests  of  Mount  Clinton,  which  bv^iong  to 
the  ascent  from  the  Notch. 

When  we  rise  ip  into  the  region  where  the  real  moun- 
tain scenery  opens,  the  views  from  the  two  paths  are 
entirely  different  in  character,  and  it  is  difficult  to  decide 
which  is  grander.  From  the  Notch,  as  soon  as  we  ride 
out  of  the  forest,  we  are  on  a  mountain  top.  We  have 
scaled  Mount  Clinton,  which  is  4200  feet  high.  Then  the 
path  follows  the  line  of  the  White  Mountain  ridge.  We 
descend  a  little,  and  soon  mount  the  beautiful  dome  of 
Mount  Pleasant,  which  is  500  feet  higher.  Descending 
this  to  the  narrow  line  of  the  ridge  again,  we  come  to 
Mount  Franklin,  a  little  more  than  100  feet  higher  than 
Pleasant,  less  marked  in  the  landscape,  but  very  difficult 
to  climb.    Beyond  this,  500  feet  higher  still,  are  tlie  dou- 


!f 


! 


iff  .• 


I 


74 


LAKES,   EIVEES,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


ble  peaks  of  Mr  ant  Monroe ;  and  then  winding  down  to 
the  Lake  of  the  Clouds,  from  whence  tlio  Ammonoosuc 
issues,'  we  stand  before  the  cone  of  Mount  Washington, 
which  springs  more  than  1000  feet  above  us.  The  views 
of  the  ravines  all  along  thia  route,  as  we  pass  over  the 
sharpest  portions  of  the  ridge,  and  see  them  sweeping  off 
each  way  from  the  path,  are  very  exciting.  And  there  is 
the  great  advantage  in  this  approach  to  He  noted  that,  if 
Mount  Washington  is  clouded,  and  the  other  summits  are 
clear,  travelers  do  not  lose  the  sensation  and  the  effects 
produced  by  standing  for  the  first  time  on  a  mountain 
peak.  '  '  -.-■:-'.     .•  •-/■•-.v  -:.,"..  '^'':. -/t"i^^^.^'.: 

By  the  Glen  route  we  cross  no  subordinate  peaks,  and 
do  not  follow  a  ridge  line  from  which  we  see  summits 
towering  here  and  there,  but  steadily  ascend  Mount  Wash- 
ington itself.  In  this  way  a  more  adequate  conception  is 
gained  of  its  immense  mass  and  majestic  architecture. 
After  we  pass  above  the  line  of  the  carriage-road  to  the 
barren  portion  of  the  mountain,  there  are  grand  pictures 
at  the  south  and  east  of  the  Androscoggin  Valley,  and 
the  long,  heavily-wooded  Carter  range.  Indeed,  nothing 
which  th<3  day  can  show  will  give  more  astonishment 
than  the  spectacle  which  opens  after  passing  through  the 
spectral  forest,  made  up  of  acres  of  trees,  leafless,  peeled, 
and  bleached,  and  ridiag  out  upon  the  ledge.  Those  who 
make  thus  their  first  acquaintance  v/ith  a  mountain  height 
will  feel,  in  looking  down  into  the  immense  hollow  in 
which  the  Glen  House  is  a  dot,  and  off"  upon  the  vast 
green  breastwork  of  Mount  Carter,  that  language  must 
be  stretched  and  intensified  to  answer  for  the  new  sensa- 
tions awakened.  We  shall  never  forget  the  phrase  which 
a  friend  once  used — an  artist  in  expression  as  in  feeling, 
and  not  given  under  strong  stimulant  to  superlatives — as 


.•<- 


s. 

ig  down  to 
nmonoosuc 
'^ashingfton. 

The  views 
38  over  the 
i^'eeping  off 
ad  there  is 
ted  that,  if 
immits  are 
the  effects 

mountain 

peaks,  and 

e  summits 

unt  Wash- 

nception  is 

chitecture. 

oad  to  the 

pictures 

alley,  and 

nothing 

nishment 

•ough  the 

s,  peeled, 

lose  who 

n  height 

ollow  in 

the  vast 

ge  must 

w  sensa- 

e  which 

feeling, 

ves — as 


t 


Berlin  Falls,  White  MountainB. 


'i  1 


I 


.HmiilM^M  ■.: 


M 


LAKES,   RIVBRS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


'75 


he  looked,  for  the  first  time,  from  the  ledge  upon  the 
square  miles  of  undulating  wilderness :  "  See  the  tumultu- 
ous bombast  of  the  landscape  I"  Yet  the  glory  of  the 
view  is,  after  all,  the  four  highest  companion  mountains 
of  the  range,  Clay,  Jefferson,  Adams,  Madison,  that  show 
themselves  in  a  bending  line  beyond  the  tremendous 
gorge  at  the  right  of  the  path,  absurdly  called  the  "  Gulf 
of  Mexico,"  and  are  visible  from  their  roots  to  their  sum- 
mits. These  mountains  are  not  seen  on  the  ascent  from 
the  Notch,  being  hidden  by  the  dome  of  Mount  Washing- 
ton itself.  On  the  Glen  path  these  grand  forms  tower  so 
near  us  that  it  seems  at  first  as  though  a  strong  arm 
might  throw  a  stone  across  the  Gulf  and  hit  them.  There 
should  be  a  resting-place  near  the  edge  of  the  ravine, 
where  parties  could  dismount  and  study  these  forms  at 
leisure.  Except  by  climbing  to  the  ridge  through  the 
unbroken  wilderness  of  the  northern  side,  there  is  no 
such  view  to  be  had  east  of  the  Mississippi  of  mountain 
architecture  and  sublimity. 

The  first  effect  of  standing  on  the  summit  of  Mount 
Washington  is  a  bewildering  of  the  senses  at  the  extent 
and  lawlessness  of  the  spectacle.  It  is  as  though  we 
were  looking  upon  a  chaos.  The  land  is  tossed  into  a 
tempest.  But  in  a  few  moments  we  become  accustomed 
to  this  and  begin  to  feel  the  joy  of  turning  round  and 
sweeping  a  horizon-line  that  in  parts  is  drawn  outside  of 
New-England.  Then  we  can  begin  to  inquire  into  the 
particulars  of  the  stupendous  diorama.  Northward,  if  the 
air  is  not  thick  with  haze,  we  look  beyond  the  Canada 
line.  Southward,  the  "  parded  land  "  stretches  across  the 
borders  of  Massachusetts,  before  it  melts  into  the  horizon. 
Do  you  see  a  dim  blue  pyramid  on  the  far  north-east,  look- 
ing scarcely  more  substantial  than  gossamer,  but  keeping 


■  ■  i.-iH«»i(m»1»,'  'I'"   '  f 


I    i 


r 


I    i 


76 


LAKES,   RIVERS,    AND   MOUNTAINS. 


its  place  stubbornly,  and  cutting  the  yellowish  horizon 
with  the  hue  of  Damascus  steel  ?  It  is  Katahdin  looming 
out  of  the  central  wilderness  of  Maine.  Almost  in  the 
same  line  on  the  south-west,  and  nearly  as  far  away,  do 
you  See  another  filmy  angle  in  the  base  of  the  sky  ?  It  is 
Monadnoc,  which  would  feel  prouder  than  Mont  Blanc,  or 
the  frost-sheeted  Chimborazo,  or  the  topmost  spire  of  the 
Himalaya,  if  it  could  know  that  the  genius  of  Mr.  Emer- 
son has  made  it  the  noblest  mountain  in  literature.  The 
nearer  range  of  the  Green  Mountains  are  plainly  visible  j 
and  behinU  them  Camel's  Hump  and  Mansfield  tower  in 
the  direction  of  Lake  Champlain.  The  silvery  patch  on 
the  north,  that  looks  at  first  like  a  small  pond,  is  Umba- 
gog ;  a  little  farther  away  due  south,  a  section  of  the  mir- 
ror of  Winnipiseogee  glistens.  Sebago  flashes  on  the 
south-east,  and  a  little  nearer,  the  twin  Lovell  Lakes,  that 
lie  more  prominently  on  the  map  of  our  history  than  on 
the  landscape.  Next,  the  monotony  of  the  scene  is  broken 
by  observing  the  various  forms  of  the  mountains  thai  are 
thick  as  "  meadow  mole-liills " — the  great  wedge  of  La- 
fayette, the  long,  thin  ridge  of  Carter,  the  broad-based 
and  solid  Pleasant  Mountain,  the  serrated  summit  of  Cho- 
corua,  the  beautiful  cone  of  Kearsarge,  the  cream-colored 
Stratford  peaks,  as  near  alike  in  size  and  shape  as  two 
Dromios.  Then  the  pathways  of  the  rivers  interest  us. 
The  line  of  the  Connecticut  we  can  follow  from  its  birth 
near  Canada  to  the  point  where  it  is  hidden  by  the  great 
Franconia  wall.  Its  water  is  not  visible ;  but  often  in  the 
morning  a  line  of  fog  lies  for  miles  over  the  lower  land, 
counterfeiting  the  serpentine  path  of  its  blue  water  that 
boimds  two  States.  Two  large  curves  of  the  Androscog- 
gin we  can  see.  Broken  portions  of  the  Saco  lie  like 
lumps  of  light  upon  the  open  valley  to  the  west  of  Kear- 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND  MOUNTAINS. 


11 


ill  horizon 
n  looming 
ost  in  the 
'  away,  do 
ky?    It  is 
;  Blanc,  or 
)ire  of  the 
Mr.  Emer- 
ure.    The 
[j  visible ; 
tower  in 
patch  on 
is  Umba- 
f  the  mir- 
s  on  the 
akes,  that 
than  on 
is  broken 
that  are 
re  of  La- 
ad-based 
of  Cho- 
colored 
as  two 
[rest  us. 
s  birth 
e  great 
in  the 
land, 
T  that 
oscog- 
e  like 
Kear« 


garge.  The  sources  of  the  Merrimack  are  on  the  farther 
slope  of  a  mountain  that  seems  to  be  not  more  than  the 
distance  of  a  rifle-shot.  Directly  under  our  feet  lies  the 
cold  Lake  of  the  Clouds,  whose  water  plunges  down  the 
wild  path  of  the  Ammonoosuc,  and  falls  more  than  a  mile 
before  the  ocean  drinks  it  at  New-Haven.  And  in  the 
sides  of  the  mountain,  every  wrinkle  east  or  west  that  is 
searched  by  the  sunbeams  or  cooled  by  shadows,  is  the 
channel  of  a  bounty  that  swells  one  of  the  three  great 
streams  of  New-England.  And  lastly,  we  notice  the  vari- 
ous beauty  of  the  valleys  that  slope  off  from  the  central 
range.  No  two  of  them  are  articulated  with  the  moun- 
tain by  the  same  angles  and  curves.  Stairways  of  charm- 
ing slope  and  bend  lead  down  into  their  sweet  and  many- 
colored  loveliness  and  bounty.  "  ^ 

The  most  unfavorable  time  for  visiting  the  summit  is 
in  the  noon  of  a  summer  day  when  the  air  is  hazy.  There 
are  no  shadows  then,  no  wonders  of  color,  no  vague  reaches 
of  distance.  And  yet,  because  the  air  is  genial  and  the 
cone  is  not  vailed  by  mist,  such  a  day  is  generally  ac- 
counted propitious  by  travelers.  It  is  better  to  encounter 
fogs,  or  sudden  showers,  especially  if  one  has  never  enjoyed 
before  an  unobstructed  prospect  from  the  peak,  than  to 
see  the  landscape  spiritless  under  a  solitary  noon.  Cloud- 
effects  are  the  most  surprising  and  fascinating  pageants 
which  the  ascent  of  the  mountain  can  disclose. 

THE  DELAWARE  WATEE  GAP. 

Brodhead's  Kittatinny  House  is  headquarters  for  the 
Delaware  Water  Gap,  being  beautifully  situated  on  the  side 
of  the  Kittatinny  Mountain,  and  commanding  a  view  of 
the  mouth  of  the  Gap  on  one  side,  and  the  outline  of  the 
Blue  Uidge,  with  the  fertile  and  beautiful  valley  of  the 


78 


LAKES,   RIVEUS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


I  ;1 


Delaware,  on  the  other.    The  season  here  is  always  a  gay 
one,  {ind  the  hotel  is  ever  filled  to  overflowing. 

Winging  away  from  New- York  by  the  Central  Railway 
)f  New-Jersey,  leaving  the  city  at  9  a.m.,  connecting  with 
ihe  Delaware,  Lackawanna,  and  Western  Railway  at  the 
Junction — or  by  the  Delaware  and  Belvidere  road  from 
Philadelphia,  the  tourist  finds  himself,  after  a  ride  (through 
wild  and  startling  scenery)  at  a  fearful  rate  of  speed  around 
the  base  of  the  mountains,  safely  lauded,  and,  at  scarcely  1^ 
o'clock,  at  the  little  station  at  the  foot  of  Kittatinny  Moun- 
tain. Stages  are  ready  at  the  depot  to  convey  guests  to 
the  Kittatinny  House,  and  a  few  moments'  ride  over  the 
steep,  winding  road,  and  one  is  standing  on  the  piazza, 
greeting  friends,  or  rushing  madly  toward  the  office  to 
secure  a  *^om  or  a  place  to  hang  up. 

If  you  fail  of  accommodation  at  the  Kittatinny,  tempo- 
rary sleeping  accommodations  may  be  obtained  at  the 
little  Senape  House,  opposite  the  depot — a  house,  by  the 
way,  which  can  barely  be  styled  a  trap  to  catch  travelers, 
where  the  landlord  "doesn't  take  lodgers  for  Brodhead 
when  the  Kittatinny  is  full" — and  whose  husk  mat- 
tresses and  straw  pillows  would  be  fully  indorsed  by  any 
prison  superintendent  or  almshouse  commissioner. 

The  company  at  the  Kittatinny  is  quiet  but  select ;  and 
while  there  is  no  lack  of  amusement — hops  on  Saturdays 
and  excursions  every  day — with  an  occasional  *•'  fair  for  the 
church,"  in  one  of  which,  on  a  Wednesday  and  Thursday 
of  last  summer,  they  realized  over  $1100  for  the  benefit 
of  the  Presbyterian  chapel,  there  seems  an  air  of  comfort 
and  sociability  seldom  or  never  met  with  among  hotel  peo- 
ple, except  at  the  Water  Gap,  or  at  some  such  secluded  and 
semi-occasional  retreat.  ' 

Folks  here  take  it  quietly  and  respectabV.    There  is 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


79 


plenty  to  see,  and  one  can  either  take  plenty  of  time  to  3ee 
it  in,  or  lie  can  run  the  whole  gauntlet  of  the  sights  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  between  Saturday  morning  and  Mon- 
day noon,  and  yet  carry  away  a  complete  and  satisfactory 
idea  of  the  Delaware  Water  Gap  and  its  surroundings. 

"  Squire  Jones,"  with  his  pretty  skiff,  the  Minnehaha,  is 
always  ready  to  show  Water  Gap  and  the  river,  where,  he 
the  climbing  fever  at  its  height,  one  can  go  with  the  guide 
up  the  rugged  and  dangerous  pathway  full  1600  feet,  and, 
standing  on  the  ledge,  out  of  reach  of  the  chilling  current 
of  air  from  the  valley  below,  obtain  a  view  of  moimtain 
scenery  sufficient  to  last  him  a  lifetime.  Or,  take  a  rest- 
ing-place some  300  feet  from  the  base  of  the  Jersey  Moun- 
tain, with  80  feet  depth  of  green  water  flowing  at  its  base, 
the  twin  giant  of  the  Pennsylvania  Mountain,  shaped  like 
a  huge  elephant,  rising  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  gap, 
with  the  brown,  forbidding  ledges  standing  out  upon  its 
rugged  sides,  and  the  serpentine  train  of  coal-cars  winding 
slowly  abound  the  base,  the  train  so  long  that  the  engine 
is  lost  from  view  on  cne  side  of  the  curve  before  the  red 
flag  signal  car  at  the  end  of  the  train  is  fairly  in  view  from 
the  other  end  of  the  curving  roadway. 

The  places  of  interest  to  be  seen  about  the  Water  Gap 
and  hidden  away  among  the  mountain  paths,  are,  many  of 
them,  connected  with  the  earlier  history  of  tlie  region ; 
and  the  number  of  Indian  legends  told  with  the  history 
of  the  spear-heads  and  antique  stones  in  the  hotel  ofiice, 
and  of  ancient  date,  are  many  of  them,  doubtless,  of  rather 
more  than  ancient  veracity.  Still  they  are  legends ;  and 
the  places  of  Indian  history  are  to  be  seen  and  to  be  ad 
mired ;  and  a  more  distinct  and  comprehensive  idea  can 
be  had  by  walking  through  the  mountain  paths  and  over 
the  ledges  of  rocks,  with  the  aid  of  Mr.  Brodhead's  photo- 


80 


t  ri' 


[/  5 


I.AKE8,  EIVEBS,  ANB  MOCOTAINS. 


grapliically  illustrated  GuitU>  n..i.  .,, 

«->jW  of  carriage  ,^,,^-^^^-^^^^^^^^  '>y  an  tofl„Ue 

Tl>e  one  great  drawback  to  lit!  ^cursioas. 

^^ater  Gap  as  a  PopuCL ^^  ^1:'  *'"'  ^•'"'-- 
datmg  spirit  of  the  railway  complv  B^  "°"-''«''«™"«'- 
«ach  way,  and  no  other  means  <^T  "'"'  *'"'''  "  ^'^V 

'vorld  at  large,  and  the  gr^at  ciLr°"'"''^"°'>  ^''"^  "'« 
"ews  at  all  on  Sunday  nullirr '"  ^'"'''"'''^'  '^'^  »« 
Of  «uch  a  place  and  ^.iT^S^J  "'  *'*'  '"'^"'"«^«« 
Mr.  Brodhcad  intends  an  «!    ^  "'*  '"'""^ed  that 

from  WYork,  and  to  i:^";™;  '"  ^^  ^^^^^  -' 
npon  the  controlling  spiSs  'I  trr  ,  '"''"''  «"««"''" 
Among  the  guests  at  the  holl  '^'^''^''""a  Bailway. 
Yo'-k  people,  who  take  the  ^ul^"  "'"''"^  ""'"^  ^«^- 

Having  done  the  Water  qZ        '"  "^  '^"''"  '^»^- 
can  be  done  in  a  day  or  two  H     "''f*  ^'^^^'  *"  "^  "  "'at 
W"  region  shall  be  neL^l  \"'"^  '"'"'^^  "''''^  ^chuyl 
splendid  valley  of  the  1'™'/°^'  «"  «-'  -"«  the 
ta3>ce  as  we  are  approacwTLL  "'?  "''''  '"  *^«  "^i- 
^ountains  with  their  ledgef^!f  if '^'^^'  """^  *«  ^^m  old 
merging  themselves  into    he  Wue'l       '""°  *'°°«  ^-' 
we  take  leave  of  the  Wat^R      ^     ""'  ""^  *^'«  distance 
and  the  falls,  and  w  '^7;*^ ''"'^''Mhe  Kittatinny 

~y  about  the  ^^.Z^SZL^Z'  '"^^ 

4rtTytsT:rre"^tefiTv''**"  ^''P'  --J  *»« 

leave  the  sullen-looking  [wfn  l!tl^'"f  ^ ^  «""««.  -« 
--  the  Lackawanna  road  WaTseTvif '"'' ""'  ^^^^ 
Following  the  winding  coarse  Jti:  r  '^  *"<!  Easton. 

-d,  aad  through  aC^      ' ttS;"' r"^°°* 

JeautifulJy  undulating 


LAKES,   EIVERS,   AND  MOUNTAINS. 


81 


L  infinite 
ions. 

Delaware 
ic<'.omino- 
wn  a  day 
with  the 
with  no 
vantages 
ned  that 
ecial  car 
suasion  " 
Railway. 
ay  New- 

T. 

i  it  that 
Schuyl- 
ivith  the 
the  dis- 
irim  old 
me  fast 
istance, 
atinny, 
ugged 


Id  the 
pe,  we 
speed 
|.ston. 
looth 
^ting 


country,  making  connections  at  Allcntown,  we  again  nes- 
tle down  among  the  mountains  at  a  hotel  which  is  merely 
a  fair  sample  of  the  accommodations  for  which  the  Schuyl- 
kill region  seems  to  be  remarkable,  and  of  which  the  least 
said  the  better. 

Over  one  of  the  dirtiest,  dustiest— and  prettiest — roads 
in  the  country,  after  a  ride  from  Reading,  through  tunnels 
and  around  curves,  at  a  rate  of  speed  which,  while  it  evin- 
ces conf  lence  in  a  well-graded  and  well-ballasted  railway, 
is  nevertheless  startling  to  the  quiet-going  traveler— we 
find  ourselves  suddenly  brought  to  a  stand-still  at  a  depot 
built  against  the  side  of  the  hill,  at  Pottsville,  the  western 
terminus  of  the  Philadelphia  and  Reading  Railway.  The 
town  is  a  busy  one,  built  upon  and  between  the  mountains, 
with  its  streets  running  at  right  angles.  The  smoke  from 
the  furnaces  and  rolling-mills  rising  up  from  among  the 
hills — ^where  every  body  talks  coal  or  iron,  with  an  occa- 
sional digression  on  church  music — and  where  every  one 
anxiously  inquires  the  state  of  the  market  on  coal,  arguing 
the  difference  in  prices  and  quality  between  red  and  white 
ash,  "  lump,"  "  broken,"  "  Qg^^'  "  stove,"  and  "  chestnut" 
— brings  to  us  at  once  a  vivid  consciousness  that  we  are  in 
the  Coal  Region  of  Pennsylvania. 

The  change  of  scenery  from  the  notches  of  the  Water 
Gap  to  the  line  of  the  Reading  road  and  the  Schuylkill  is 
very  striking;  the  one,  wild,  rugged  and  brown — the 
other,  softly  beautiful  and  green,  from  base  to  summit. 
Dotted  about  upon  the  mountain-sides,  and  breaking  in 
upon  the  scenery,  are  the  distant  views  of  coal  operations, 
with  the  heavy-timbered  breakers  looking  down  upon  the 
roads  below,  and  the  smoke  and  steam  from  the  engines 
and  pump  moving  slowly  upward  in  white  and  distinct 
lines. 


82 


LAKES,    RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


Shut  in  among  the  hills,  and  with  a  high-toned  and  ra- 
ther conservative  society,  Pottsville  is  the  moneyed  centre 
of  the  region,  vv^hero  the  operators  generally  come  to  make 
their  deposits,  and,  in  the  times  of  low  prices  and  high 
wages,  to  get  their  paper  "  done  "  at  varied  rates  of  dis- 
count ;  and  the  field  for  the  operation  of  brains  and  the 
use  of  capital,  as  shown  by  the  success  of  the  boldest  opera- 
tors, is  one  where  perseverance  is  well  rewarded  and 
success Thade  certain  by  energy. 

A  walk  of  a  mile  or  more  along  the  canal  brings  us  to 
Port  Carbon  Landing — the  grand  shipping-point,  where 
the  boats  are  loaded  for  New- York  and  Philadelphia  mar- 
kets. Here  the  scene  is  a  busy  one,  though  a  pair  of  white 
duck  pants  and  a  Panama  hat  are  rather  out  of  order  by 
way  of  costume.  At  the  further  end  of  the  basin,  and  at  a 
convenient  intersection  of  the  hundred  tracks  or  more  for 
the  laden  and  empty  coal-cars,  stands  the  office  of  Mr.  John 
Medlar,  the  shipping  agent,  where  reports  are  made,  orders 
given,  questions  answered,  the  bills  of  lading  made  out, 
signed,  and  dispatched.  On  either  side,  deep  down  in  the 
basin,  lie  the  boats,  loaded  or  awaiting  a  turn,  while  others 
are  receiving  their  cargoes  from  the  screens  and  shutes 
erected  next  to  the  little  sentry-box  offices  of  the  various 
overseers  who  control  the  loading  as  the  cars  are  brought 
down,  where  the  dirty-looking  boys  who  are  hired  by  the 
miners  to  pick  out  slate  (and  who  habitually  take  pains 
not  to  do  so)  get  their  directions  where  and  how  to  go  to 
work.  Adjacent  to  the  office  are  the  resting-place  stables 
for  the  mules,  the  weighiiig  lock,  and  the  dispatcher's 
office,  whence  the  boats  are  sent  forward  to  "  order,"  or  a 
market. 

Back  to  Pottsville  by  the  dusty  road,  and  stopping  in  at 
the  Reading  Railway  machine-shops  at  Palo  Alto,  we  take  a 


LAKES,    RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS 


83 


3d  and  ra- 
ffed centre 
le  to  make 
and  high 
tea  of  dis- 
s  and  the 
lest  opera- 
rded  and 

ings  us  to 
at,  where 
phia  mar- 
r  of  white 
order  bv 
,  and  at  a 
'  more  for 
Mr.  John 
ie,  orders 
lade  out, 
n  in  the 
le  others 
shutes 
various 
brought 
by  the 
e  pains 
|o  go  to 
stables 
-teller's 


ff 


or  a 


Ig  in  at 
take  a 


look  at  the  rolling  mill,  whore  the  men  at  work  before  the 
heated  furnaces,  naked  about  the  waist  and  with  dani})oned 
cloths  bound  above  thoir  foreheads,  look  like  so  many 
devils  hard  at  work  amid  the  crashing  reports  and  flying 
spai'ks  and  flakes,  as  the  iron  is  being  crushed  into  shape 
between  the  rollers,  or  cut  by  the  huge  circular  saw.  Wt 
shall  study  the  hotel  fare  with  no  dint  of  satisfaction,  and 
prepare  for  an  early  start  for  the  mines  in  the  morning. 

Under  the  care  of  a  driver  who  is  sutficiently  antiquated 
in  garb  and  years  to  be  "  up  "  in  the  windings  of  a  dan 
gerous  and  stony  mountain  roadway,  in  the  drizzling  rain 
and  fog,  wo  leave  the  hotel  soon  after  sunrise,  for  a  visit  to 
the  Girardville  Colliery,  and  o.  look  at  Ashland  and  the 
surroundings.  Leaving  Pottsville  by  the  main  street,  we 
are  soon  rumbling  along  the  unever.  road,  and  almost  as 
soon  as  we  ascend  the  hill  are  in  sight  of  the  coal  opera- 
tions about  tlie  village  of  Saint  Clair.  Surrounded  on  all 
sides  by  great  hills  of  refuse  coal,  as  we  descend  into  the 
valley  again,  the  view  before  us  is  grand  in  the  extreme. 
Meeting  at  the  base,  and  with  the  cheery  green  of  the 
hills  along  the  railway,  variegated  by  the  lines  of  brown 
and  black  stunted  shrubbery  and  out-croppings  of  coal,  the 
magnitude  of  the  immense  interests  at  work,  and  the 
amount  of  capital  invested  and  labor  required,  is  appa- 
rent on  all  sides.  Seven  or  eight  operations — most  of 
them  idle,  however,  with  only  the  pump  working  to  keep 
the  water  from,  gaining — may  be  seen  at  one  time,  and  the 
increasing  size  and  number  of  the  mountains  of  useless 
coal  and  dust,  somo  of  them  with  railways  built  out  upon 
them,  and  trains  of  small  cars  drawn  by  mules,  give  a 
novel  and  pleasing  effect,  and  some  idea  of  the  great  means 
of  wealth  of  the  Schuylkill  region. 

Not  to  delay  long  here,  we  keep  on  over  a  stony  and 


II  nl 


h 


!l 


i 


84 


LAKES,    RIVERS, 


AND   MOUNTAINS. 


tirosomo  road  with  pfren^  fiflaures  on  tlio  HuleH,  and  liun 
dredH  of  feet  of  stoep  prrcipico  in  convenient  i)roxiniity  for 
tuniblinpf  down  it.  Pasninff  one  or  two  abandoned  or 
"  worlved-out "  collieries,  whore  the  driver  will  point  out 
the  spot  where  a  house  and  its  conteni  i  were  swallowed  u^) 
by  the  cavin^-in  of  a  mine,  the  inmates  of  the  building 
barely  escapin,":?  with  their  lives,  wo  reach  tho  foot  of  the 
plane,  and  are  fairly  in  the  centre  of  the  coal  reg'on. 

As  fur  as  the  eye  can  reach,  tho  black  outline  and  glis- 
teninj]:  rails  of  the  Mahanoy  and  Broad  Mountain  Railway 
mark  the  course  of  the  operations  and  tho  valley,  and 
tho  rapid  descent  of  a  train  of  laden  cars  rushing?  down  the 
plane,  with  the  workmen  riding  up  in  the  empty  cars  on 
tho  other  track,  with  the  rumble  of  the  coal  passing? 
throuf^h  tho  breaker  built  upon  the  side  of  the  mountain, 
make  the  scene  one  of  peculiar  wildness  ;  while,  prettiest 
of  all,  just  at  the  foot  of  the  road,  the  white  and  lilac  tinted 
outlines  of  two  i)retty  houses,  built  on  terraces,  and  sur- 
rounded by  flower-beds  and  overlooking  the  brook  and 
trout-pond,  point  out  to  us  the  beautiful  though  almost 
secluded  mountain-homo  of  Mr.  Beyers,  of  the  Heading 
Railway. 

A  ride  of  an  hour,  tedious  and  toilsome,  over  a  rough 
road,  except  in  crossing  the  Broad  Mountain,  brings  us 
to  the  little  half-village  of  Girardville,  a  quiet  town  to  the 
right,  where  a  remarkably  smooth  and  prettily  shaded  i)ath 
leads  up  to  the  Girardville  Manor  House,  occupied  by  Mr- 
Charles  Conner,  superintendent  at  the  mine.  A  corresiwn- 
dent  of  the  JVew-  York  Gazette,  visiting  the  mines  last  sum- 
mer, thus  describes  his  experience,  under  Mr.  Conner's 
obliging  guardianship : 

"  Having  done  the  Manor  House  and  garden  with  a  drink 
of  cold  spring  water,  we  accepted  Lis  offer  of  the  loan  of 


( •■ 


IXS. 


ilw,  and  hun 
proximity  for 
.bandonod  or 
^111  point  out 
swallowed  up 
tho  building 
0  foot  of  the 

reg'on. 
ine  and  glis- 
itain  Railway 
)  valloy,  and 
ing  down  the 
nipty  cars  on 
coal  passing 
le  mountain, 
liile,  prettiest 
id  lilac  tinted 
^es,  and  sur- 
brook  and 
)ugli  almost 

le  Reading 

^er  a  rough 
brings  us 
town  to  the 
haded  path 
•ied  by  Mr* 
correspon- 
last  sum- 
Conner's 


*4 

o 

I 

A. 


I 


I 


[th  a  drink 
le  loan  of 


1  I 


V 


hi 


■ 


i 


'i 


LAKES,   KIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


85 


■>•!.• 


oil-clotli  coats  and  hats,  received  most  gratefully  his  sug- 
gestion  of  *  thick  boots  being  just  the  thing/  and  went 
up  into  the  dirty,  ugly-looking  breaker,  seeing  the  whole 
thing  from  the  platform  where  the  cars  are  unloaded  of 
their  large  blocks  of  coal,  down  the  steps  leading  to  the 
screen  for  making  the  various  sizes,  creeping  under  the 
wooden  pipes  arranged  for  washing  the  chestnut  and  pea 
coal,  and  then  down  upon  the  raihvay  beneath,  whence 
the  cars  are  loaded  for  the  '  landing.' 

"  Committed  to  care  of  Billy,  the  *  Inside  Boss/  whom  we 
found  to  be  a  pleasant,  chatty  old  fellow,  with  flaxen  hair, 
and  a  bright,  twinkling  eye,  and  decidedly  foreign  accent, 
wo  stopped  at  the  entrance  of  the  mine.  Agreeably  to 
Billy's  suggestion  to  get  fresh  oil  in  our  lamps,  as  the  con- 
sequence of  groping  around  in  the  darkness  of  a  coal  mine, 
with  an  extinguished  lamp,  might  not  be  pleasant,  we  fol- 
lowed him  into  the  opening  before  us,  boldly  enough  at 
the  outset,  but  rather  more  slowly  and  cautiously  after  a 
moment's  walk,  as  the  faint  glimmer  of  daylight  from  the 
opening  was  soon  lost  in  the  solemn  and  awful  blackness 
of  the  path  before  us.  The  sensation,  too,  of  cold,  almost 
suflBcient  to  cause  a  chilling  shudder,  and  the  sound  of 
water  splashing  about  our  feet  and  trickling  down  from 
the  roof  above  us,  and  down  the  sides  of  the  '  gangway, ' 
were  not  well  calculated  to  inspire  confidence  in  the  route 
we  were  about  to  travel.  A  short  distance  in  the  mine, 
we  became  accustomed  to  the  dampness,  and  began  to  see 
measurably  well,  by  an  attentive  pulling  up  of  the  cotton 
on  our  lamps,  and  a  little  straining  of  the  eyes. 

"  One  of  the  prettiest  effects  was  the  glow  and  dazzling 
brilliancy  of  the  lamps  on  the  miners'  hats,  some  distance 
ahead  of  us,  as  they  bobbed  up  and  down  in  the  darkness, 
4ind  we  were  enabled  to  detect  the  motions  of  the  miner 


86 


LAKES,    RIVERS, 


AND   arOUNTAINS. 


i:  f 


J     * 


by  the  rising  and  falling",  and  j  umping  about,  of  tlie  little 
star  of  flame  fastened  on  his  cap. 

"  Further  in,  we  were  pulled  aside  by  the  guide  to  allow 
a  lumbering  mule-train  to  pass,  and  then,  climbing  up 
through  a  hole  scarce  large  enough  to  crawl  into,  we  were 
standing  upright  in  a  vaulted  cavern,  with  roof,  floor,  and 
sides  of  glistening  coal,  with  tlie  light  of  our  uplifted  lamps 
tlirown  back  in  hundreds  of  sparkles  from  the  sharp  and 
glistening  corners  of  the  newly  fractured  '  Locust  Moun- 
tain.' 

"  These  openings,  which  are  known  as  '  brearjts,'  vary  in 
area  from  150  to  180  feet,  and  are  known  by  the  technical 
name  of  *  runs,'  being  openings  where  the  coal  is  worked 
by  blasting  and  picks,  aside  from  the  main  gangways — 
and  are  formed  by  working  the  veins  from  the  lower  stra- 
tum of  slate  upward,  in  the  direction  of  the  purest  vein, 
through  the  second  layer  of  slate  wliich  lies  above  it. 
Leaving  the  '  breast,'  and  still  following  the  course  of  the 
rail-track  in  the  gangway,  a  glimmer  of  faint  blue  light 
was  seen  on  one  side,  and  we  were  cautioned  to  hold  our 
lamps  high  to  avoid  the  current  of  fresh  cold  air  searching 
down  into  the  mine  from  the  long  and  jagged  excavation 
for  an  air-hole,  with  a  patch  of  daylight  looking  no  longer 
than  one's  hand.  Through  this  we  were  respectfully 
invited  to  creep  on  hands  and  knees,  following  Billy,  if 
we  saw  fit,  and  were  reassured  we  would  find  ourselves  on 
the  side  of  the  mountain,  a  long  walk's  distance  from  the 
opening. 

"  As  we  advanced,  the  way  became  more  difficult  in  tra- 
veling, and  we  were  fully  aware  of  the  necessity  of  care  in 
looking  above  as  well  as  on  the  sides,  from  one  or  two  un- 
ceremonious bumps  from  the  overhanging  masses  of  coal. 
The  *  breasts '  were  still  to  be  seen,  though  smaller — but  ^ 


»Wk.. 


AINS. 


LAKES,   KIVEKS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


87 


lit,  of  tlie  little 

guide  to  allow 
1,  climbing'  up 
1  into,  we  were 
roof,  floor,  and 

uplifted  lamps 
the  sharp  and 

Locust  Moun- 

pea:ts,'  vary  in 
the  technical 
eoal  is  worked 
1  gangways — 
the  lower  stra- 
e  purest  vein, 
lies  above  it. 
course  of  the 
int  blue  light 
to  hold  our 
air  searching 
ed  excav^ation 
ng  no  longer 
respectfully 
ing  Billy,  if 
ourselves  on 
nee  from  the 

flScult  in  tra- 
ity  of  care  in 
e  or  two  un- 
sses  of  coal, 
mailer — but 


the  veins  of  coal  became  deeper  and  purer,  and  the  marks 
of  heavy  blasts  in  the  solid  coal  were  visible  on  each  side, 
while  an  occasional  sensation  of  fatigue  and  a  slight  dif- 
ficulty in  breathing  gave  good  cause  for  heeding  our  guide's 
admonition,  '  Take  it  easy  till  the  end  of  the  gangway, 
and  save  your  breath  for  the  tramp  back.' 

*'  Glad  to  find  ourselves  at  the  end  of  the  path,  and  aston- 
ished to  learn  that  we  had  walked  nearly  a  mile  under 
ground  and  into  the  side  of  the  rugged  mountain  above  us, 
we  retraced  our  steps,  following  Billy  with  slow  and  cau- 
tious tread,  but  yet  with  no  sign  of  daylight,  and  the  little 
twinkling  stars  of  the  miner's  lights  a  long  way  off, 
doubly  brilliant  in  the  increasing  damp  and  darkness. 

"  Again  we  pass  the  mule  train  and  the  group  of  miners, 
but  were  not  allowed  to  do  so  till  we  had  '  paid  our  footing' 
to  the  men — a  custom,  we  believe,  to  which  all  visitors  are 
subject,  but  which  the  most  knowing  ones  generally  con- 
trive to  make  a  light  taxation.  Having  paid  tribute,  we 
were  allowed  to  proceed,  through  gangways  closed  by 
heavy  wooden  doors,  to  arrange  and  secure  a  good  circu 
lation  of  air ;  and  then  to  the  second  opening,  now  being 
*  driven ' — making  a  steep  slope,  where  the  track  is  being 
laid  for  an  almost  perpendicular  descent  into  the  mines,  at 
the  intersection  of  the  side  veins  and  the  present  gangway  ; 
and  finally  found  ourselves,  tired,  cold,  and  dirty,  with  dim- 
ly burning  lamps  and  sooty  faces  and  hands,  again  in  day- 
light, at  the  opening  of  the  *  drift,'  or  main  entrance. 

"Heeding  Mr.  Conner's  injunction  not  to  take  off  the 
coats  too  suddenly  after  the  cold  temperature  of  the  mines, 
we  thanked  old  Billy  for  his  courtesy,  sent  our  regards  to 
his  good  old  woman,  the  mother  of  fifteen  children,  boys 
and  girls,  as  he  had  taken  occasion  to  inform  us ;  and  then 
climbed  up  the  hill  to  the  opening  of  the  *  Buck  Mountain 


88 


LAKES,   KIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


.»    t 


H 


! 

I. 


f 


Vein '  Colliery,  soon  to  be  in  operation,  secured  specimens 
of  *  peacock,'  or  variegated  coal,  and  washed  off  at  the 
cooling  spring  at  the  Manor  House — having  taken  a  trip 
underground  that  your  correspondent  doesn't  care  to  take 
often,  yet,  having  taken  it,  does  not  regret,  and,  with  a 
pleasant  '  good  day'  from  the  Superintendent,  rode  hack, 
tired  and  damp." 

HARRISBURG  AND  VICINITY.    ^ 

The  natural  scenery  of  Pennsylvania  is  unusually  diver- 
sified and  beautiful.  About  one  fourth  of  her  territory  is 
occui)ied  by  mountain  ranges,  some  of  which  are  at  least 
2000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  These  ranges  of 
mountains  extend  over  a  breadth  of  200  miles,  including 
many  fruitful  valleys  and  charming  waters,  and  iron  and 
coal  deposits  that  are  unequaled  in  any  other  State  in  the 
Union. 

From  New- York  City  the  most  direct  route  to  Pennsyl- 
vania, is  via  the  Central  New-Jersey  or  AUentown  Railway, 
from  the  foot  of  Liberty  street.  By  stopping  at  th-e  Junc- 
tion, 59  miles  from  New- York,  and  taking  the  Delaware 
and  Lackawanna  cars,  the  tourist  may  reach  the  Delaware 
Water  Gap,  whose  wondrously  beautiful  scenery  is  worth 
looking  at,  (see  article  thereon,)  or  may  proceed  to  Scran- 
ton  and  Wilkesbarre,  in  the  Valley  of  the  Wyoming,  on 
the  north  branch  of  the  Susquehanna  River,  and  at  leisure 
explore  the  surrounding  coal-fields  or  review  the  scenes  of 
Campbell's  exquisite  poem  of  Gertrude  of  Wyoming. 

If  the  tourist  desire  to  reach  the  more  central  or  south- 
ern parts  ot  the  State,  he  may  continue  in  the  Central 
New-Jersey  cars  to  Easton,  a  thriving  place  at  the  forks  of 
the  Delaware  and  Lehigh  Rivers.  About  18  miles  west 
of  Eas-ton  is  the  quaint  Moravian  village  of  Bethlehem, 


INS. 


LAKES,   RIVERS,    AND   MOU.NTAINS. 


89 


red  specimens 
3d  off  at  the 
:  taken  a  trip 
't  care  to  take 
t,  and,  with  a 
nt,  rode  back, 


usually  diver- 
er  territory  is 
li  are  at  least 
3se  ranges  of 
les,  including 
and  iron  and 
r  State  in  the 

to  Pennsyl- 
)wn  Railway, 
at  th-e  Junc- 
le  Delaware 
le  Delaware 
ery  is  worth 
ed  to  Scran- 
/"yoming,  on 
tid  at  leisure 
he  scenes  of 
ming. 
al  or  south- 
he  Central 
he  forks  of 
miles  west 
ethlehem, 


founded  by  Count  Zinzendorf,  in  1741,  and  containing  a 
church  capable  of  seating  2000  persons.  A  few  miles  west 
of  tliat  is  Allentown,  built  upon  high  ground  near  the  Le- 
high River.  There  are  mineral  springs  there  which  are 
greatly  prized  for  the  efficacy  of  their  waters. 

Reading,  the  gieiit  centre  of  the  iron  interest  of  Penn- 
sylvania, is  but  20  miles  beyond  Allentown.  It  is  a  thriv- 
ing city,  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  very  interesting  land- 
scape, with  railways  leading  to  the  surrounding  coal  and 
iron  mines,  which  carry  to  her  doors  veins  of  inexhausti- 
ble wealth. 

Harrisburg,  the  capital  of  the  State,  is  54  miles  west  of 
Reading  by  railway,  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Susquehanna 
River.  From  the  dome  of  the  State  House  an  extended 
view  can  be  had  of  the  winding  river,  its  beautiful  islands, 
its  numerous  handsome  bridges,  and  the  surrounding 
mountains.  Taking  Harrisburg  as  a  centre,  the  pleasure- 
seeker  will  find  a  variety  of  resorts  to  choose  from,  either 
or  all  of  which  will  prove  attractive. 

Toward  Pittsburg  he  will  find  Mifflinton,  Lewistown, 
Huntingdon,  Hollidaysburg,  and  Altoona,  all  east  of  the 
Alleghany  Mountains,  and  in  the  beautiful  and  picturesque 
valley  of  the  Juniata.  If  he  affects  the  grand  and  rugged 
in  mountain  scenery  at  high  altitudes,  let  him  go  to  the 
Summit,  where  unequaled  panoramas  of  God's  works  will 
reward  his  effort ;  and  if  i»t  please  him,  he  may  examine 
the  result  of  man's  labor  in  subduing  nature  to  his  uses  in 
constructing  the  inclined  plane  for  transporting  merchan- 
dise across  the  mountain. 

Or,  from  Harrisburg  he  may  proceed  by  railway  directly 
•  up  the  Susquehanna  River  to  Sunbury  and  Northumber- 
land, two  quiet  villages,  surrounded  by  beautiful  scenery, 
and  thence  up  the  West  Branch  to  Lewisburg,  Milton, 


90 


LAKES,    KIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


!    I 


(     r 


^  f 


V 


Williamsport,  and  Lock  Haven,  all  of  which  have  great  at- 
tractions for  the  tourist. 

Starting  again  from  Harrisburg,  we  cross  the  Cumber- 
land Valley  Ridge  and  proceed  direct  tu  the  ancient  town  I 
of  York,  thence  to  Swiser's  Station,  and  from  thence  to 
Gettysburg,  where  the  decisive  battle  of  the  rebellion! 
was  fought.  The  National  Cemetery  and  battle-field  will 
always  prove  attractive  to  the  visitor.  Katalysine  Water 
is  also  dispensed  at  Gettysburg  for  the  cure  of  invalids. 

Starting  for  the  fourth  time  from  Harrisburg,  we  take 
the  Cumberland  Valley  Railway  and  proceed  to  Carlisle, 
a  pleasant  town;  the  seat  of  Dickinson  College,  an  excel- 
lent institution,  under  the  care  of  the  Methodist  denomi- 
nation.   Here,  too,  the  United  States  has  a  barracks  for 
training  troops, which,  before  the  rebellion,  was  commanded, 
by  General  Lee,  who  was,  therefore,  enabled  to  familiarize 
himself  with  the  strategetic  points  of  the  surrounding 
country.    Thirty-one  miles  west  is  Chambersburg,  which, 
previous  to  the  war,  was  regarded  the  most  beautiful  town 
of  the  State.    It  received  the  particular  attention  of  the 
rebels,  who  set  fire  to  it,  and  consumed  tw  i  millions  of 
dollars'  worth  of  property.     It  has  since  been  closely  re- 
built, wearing  the  appearance  of  a  city  rather  than  that  of 
the  rural  village  of  the  past,  with  fine  houses  surrounded 
by  beautiful  flower  and  vegetable-gardens,  and  all  the  evi- 
dences of  material  comfort.    Mine  host  of  the  National 
Hotel  will  make  all  guests  comfortable,  and  visitors  will 
find  that  the  vicinity  abounds  in  beautiful  scenery,  with 
most  superb  roads  for  riding  and  driving.    At  the  base  of 
the  neighboring  mountain,  valuable  mineral  springs  are 
much  patronized  by  invalids  seeking  health.    A  very  few 
miles  west  of  Chambersburg  is  Mount  Parnell,  from  which 
most  extended  views  of  the  adjoining  villages  may  be 


.  r 


A.1NS. 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND  MOUNTAINS. 


91 


[i  have  great  at- 

ss  the  Cumber- 

le  ancient  town 

from  thence  to 

f  the  rebellion 

battle-field  will 

ialysine  Water 

e  of  invalids. 

sburg,  we  take 

eed  to  Carlisle, 

>llege,  an  excel- 

hodist  denomi- 

a  barracks  for 

vas  commanded 

id  to  familiarize 

le  surrounding 

irsburg,  which, 

beautiful  town 

tention  of  the 

|wi  millions  of 

leen  closely  re- 

er  than  that  of 

les  surrounded 

,nd  all  the  evi- 

tlie  National 

visitors  will 

scenery,  with 

t  the  base  of 

1  springs  are 

A  very  few 

.1,  from  which 

lages  may  be 


had.    In  a  clear  atmosphere  the  scene  is  said  to  be  beau- 
tiful and  grand  beyond  description. 

WILLIAMSTOWN,    MASSACHUSETTS. 

Williamstown  is  tho  last  village  on  the  north-western 
border  of  tho  State  of  Massachusetts,  being  only  2  miles 
distant  from  Pownal,  Vermont,  and  about  the  same  dis- 
tance from  the  New- York  lino.  Beautiful  as  a  village, 
lesting  upon  and  between  two  hills,  and  surrounded  on  all 
sides  by  the  magnificent  Berkshire  mountains,  it  is  most 
attractive  as  a  point  of  departure  for  a  great  number  of 
delightful  retreats,  out  of  the  dry  and  dusty  track  of  the 
professional  tourist.  It  stands  at  a  considerable  altitude, 
and  boasts  the  purest  of  mountain  air — a  great  inducement 
to  the  young  men  who  flock  from  all  sections  to  the  ancient 
college  situated  in  and  giving  name  to  the  village,  founded 
under  bequest  of  Colonel  Ephraim  Williams,  in  1785. 

The  Mansion  House,  A.  G.  Bailey,  proprietor,  is  at  present 
the  only  public  house ;  though  limited  facilities  for  obtain- 
ing board  in  private  families  exist.  The  hotel  is  open  the 
year  round,  and  can  accommodate  125  guests.  Commence- 
ment week  at  Williams  College  comes  with  the  first  Wed- 
nesday in  August,  after  or  before  which  the  place  is  plea- 
santly quiet.  There  are  telegraph  and  mail  facilities. 
Terms  at  the  hotel,  $3  per  day  for  less  than  two  weeks, 
and  $10  to  $15  per  week  by  the  season. 

Williamstown  may  be  reached  from  New- York  by  at  least 
9  rlifferent  routes,  the  best  of  which  are :  by  People's  Line 
steamers  to  Troy,  arriving  6  A.M. ;  Troy  and  Boston  Rail- 
way to  Williamstown  direct,  arriving  at  10  o'clock — stage 
to  hotel  1  mile :  or  by  Hudson  River  or  Harlem  Railway, 
etc. :  or  by  New- York  and  New-Haven  Railway,  8  a.m.,  to 
Bridgeport;  thence  by  Housatonic  Railway  (through  the 


^■^^W^WWIlffTT 


li. 


i 


!  ( 


1    ! 

I 


'■i 


I 


02 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


beautiful  valley  of  that  name)  to  Pittsfield,  5  P.M. ;  Pitts 
field  and  North- Adams  Railway',  20  miles,  3  hours;  staof( 
from  Adams  to  Williamstown,  5  miles,  arriving  at  Mansion] 
House  8^  P.M.     Fare  by  the  New- York  route,  river  (witlil 
berth  and  meals  on  boat)  and  rail,  $4.95 ;  by  Housatonic, 
not  over  $5,  purchasing  tickets  at  New- York  for  Pittsfield,  | 
and  at  Pittsfield  for  Williamstown  direct  through. 

The  chief  attractions  of  the  neighborhood  of  Williams- 
town are  as  follows : 

To  those  disposed  or  obliged  to  confine  their  wander- 
ings near  headquarters,  there  is  Williams  College  with  its 
ancient  and  classical  memories,  geological  museum,  gym- 
nasium, (affording  excellent  bowling  privileges,  generally 
available,)  and  library ;  Flora's  Glen,  s,  pretty  enough  ram- 
ble up  the  wooded  banks  of  a  mountain  brook,  where  the 
poet  Bryant,  when  a  Sophomore  in  college,  wrote  Hiana- 
topsis;  Sand  Spring,  a  chalybeate  bath,  2  mUes  on  the 
Pownal  road;  and  some  fishing  in  the  Green  river  or 
rivulet,  ^  of  a  mile  from  the  hotel.  To  the  more  active 
visitor  there  are  equal  attractions :  Snow  Hole,  a  rugged 
mountain  ride  of  some  10  miles,  to  a  great  fissure  where 
stubborn  snow  delights  the  eye  in  any  month  of  summer  ; 
the  "  great  bore  of  Massachusetts,"  Hoosack  Tunnel,  the 
American  rival  of  Mont  Cenis,  4  miles  long — (to  be  and  to 
be  finished — when  ?)  distant  about  7  miles,  a  little  beyond 
North- Adams ;  the  Revolutionary  localities  on  the  road 
thither,  not  to  add  the  great  paper  and  woolen  factories  ; 
the  Natural  Biidge  ;  the  Cascades,  a  beautiful  silver  thread 
of  water  falling  30  feet,  half-way  to  Adams ;  but  chiefly, 
the  ride  and  visit  to  Lebanon  Springs  (Shakers)  and 
Sliaker  Village,  20  to  30  miles  to  the  south-east,  and  the 
grand  mountain  scenery.  Perhaps  the  easiest  mountain 
to  ascend  which  commands  a  great  view  is  Berlin,  reached 


'AINS. 


LAKES,    RIVERS, 


AND   MOUNTAINS. 


93 


d,  5  P.M. ;  Pitts- 
2  hours ;  stage; 

ring  at  Mansion 

ute,  river  (with 
by  Housatonic, 

'k  for  Pittsfield, 

liroug^h. 

)d  of  Williams- 

)  their  wander- 
college  with  its 
museum,  gym- 
eges,  generally 
by  enough  ram- 
•ook,  where  the 
,  wrote  Thana- 
\  mUes  on  the 
jfreen  river  or 
le  more  active 
lole,  a  rugged 
fissure  where 
,h  of  summer ; 
Ik  Tunnel,  the 
(to  be  and  to 
little  beyond 
on  the  road 
|len  factories  ; 
silver  thread 
but  chiefly, 
hakers)   and 
east,  and  the 
st  mountain 
frlin,  reached 


by  a  very  precipitous  carriage-road  of  about  10  miles  in  all 
from  the  hotel.  The  neighboring  peaks,  from  2500  to  3500 
feet  high,  and  the  interjacent  valleys,  afford  miniature 
Alpine  views,  too,  and  the  outstretched  landscape  of  Massa- 
chusetts adds  the  needed  beautiful  contrast.  Greylock 
Mountain,  distant  4  miles,  difficult  of  access,  is  the  highest 
peak  in  Massachusetts,  3500  feet.  It  is  commonly  consid- 
ered inaccessible  for  ladies  ;  but  gentlemen  form  parties  and 
camp  out  over-night  on  its  summit,  enjoying  a  peculiarly 
fine  view  at  sunrise.  Much  of  the  ascent  of  the  mountain 
itself  must  be  made  on  foot,  though  the  roads  to  the  base 
are  fine.  There  was  formerly  a  tower  on  the  top,  now 
wantonly  destroyed ;  but  with  little  difficulty  the  tree-tops 
are  surmounted  to  obtain  the  far-reacliing  view  which  richly 
rcj)ays  every  beholder. 

THE  RUTLAND  AND  BURLINGTON  RAILWAY. 

In  the  article  entitled  Williamstown,  Mass.,  we  call 
attention  to  the  charming  rural  scenery  which  one  may 
enjoy  in  every  direction  from  that  village  as  a  centre.  The 
route  thither  diverges  at  Eagle  Bridge  from  the  great 
northern  trunk  route  of  travel.  This  latter  we  now  pro- 
pose to  pursue  as  foT  as  Burlington,  whence  the  sketches 
of  Lake  CnAMPLAiN  and  Mansfield  and  Memphrema- 
GOG  will  direct  the  reader  northward  through  the  remain- 
der of  the  State  of  Vermont. 

Bennington. — The  town  of  Bennington  is  situated  in 
the  south-western  part  of  the  State  of  Vermont,  adjoining 
the  New- York  line  on  the  west,  and  with  only  one  town 
(Pownal)  between  it  and  the  Massachusetts  lino  on  the 
south.  It  derives  its  name  from  Benning  Went  worth, 
provincial  governor  of  New-Hampshire,  and  the  grantor  of 
the  charter  under  which,  in  1761,  the  town  was  originally 


i>y  ]■ 


■u 


I  I- 


1' 


94 


LAKES,   EIVERS,    AND   MOUNTAINS. 


orfvanizcd.     There  arc  at  present  three  villapfes  in  the 
town,  containing,  in  1800,  with  tlio  remainder  of  the  town, 
4392  inhabitants.    The  oldest  villajQfo,  now  called  Bennhi^ 
ton  Centre,  is  the  Benninp^on  of  Kcvolutionary  farno ;  the 
village  now  known  by  that  name  not  having  come  into 
existence  till  many  years  later.     These  are  1  mile  apart, 
and  are  about  5  miles  from  the  other,  North-Bennington, 
also  a  comparatively  new  village.     Bennington  is  more 
than  800  feet  above  tide-water,  and  being  so  close  to  the 
mountains,  is,  to  one  accustomed  to  the  heat  of  the  city, 
never  hot.     The  thermometer  seldom  rises  to  90,  and  this 
only  for  a  few  days  at  a  time.     The  nights  are  almost 
invariably  cool,  the  mercury  sinking  rapidly  with  the  sun. 
Among  the  many  objects  of  interest  in  the  old  village,  is 
the  once  famous  "  Catamount  Tavern,"  where  the  "  Coun- 
cil of  Safety,"  the  then  only  government  of  the  State,  held 
its  sittings ;  the  "  Council  Room "  being  still  preserved 
intact.    The  tavern  took  its  name  from  a  stuffed  catamount 
grinning  defiance  at  neighboring  New- York  from  the  top 
of  a  pole  in  its  front.     New- York  and  New-Hampshire  at 
that  time  both  claimed  jurisdictioi_  over   the  territory 
which  was  then  known  as  the  New-Hampshire  Grants. 
The  inhabitants  acknowledged  allegiance  to  New-Hamp- 
shire, but  denied  in  most  emphatic  terms  the  claims  of 
New- York ;  so  there  was  a  quarrel  which  lasted  almost 
from  the  first  settlement  of  the  State  until  it  was  admitted 
into  the  Union,  in  1791.     To  defend  their  claims  against 
New- York,  the  "  Green  Mountain  Boys  "  were  organized, 
with  Ethan  Allen  as  their  leader.     Here,  at  "Landlord 
Fay's,"  they  had  their  headquarters,  Allen's  house  being 
the  next  adjoining,  and  still  standing.  Under  Allen's  lead- 
ership they  became  famous,  and  soon  after  the  outbreak  of 
hostilities  with  Great  Britain,  were  organized  into  a  regi- 


AINS. 


LAKES,    RIVERS,    AND   MOUNTAINS. 


95 


t'illapfes  in  tlio 
Icr  of  the  town, 
called  Bennhiff- 
mary  fame ;  tlic 
ving  come  into 
re  1  mile  apart, 
rtli-Bcnnington, 
ington  is  more 
so  close  to  the 
cat  of  the  city, 
I  to  90,  and  this 
:hts  are  almost 
ly  with  the  sun. 
le  old  village,  is 
ere  the  "Coun- 
'  the  State,  held 
still  preserved 
ifFed  catamount 
•k  from  the  top 
v-Hampshire  at 
the  territory 
psliire  Grants. 
o  New-Hamp- 
tlie  claims  of 
lasted  almost 
was  admitted 
claims  against 
ere  organized, 
at  "Landlord 
Is  house  being 
T  Allen's  lead- 
le  outbreak  of 
kd  into  a  regi- 


mcnt,  with  Scth  Warner  as  colonel,  anci,  conjointly  with 
Stark's  troops,  won  the  Battle  of  Bennington,  August  10th, 
1777.  The  battle-ground  is  not  in  this  village,  nor,  indeed, 
in  the  town  of  Bennington,  nor  State  of  Vermont,  but  in 
Iloosack,  the  adjoining  town  in  the  State  of  New- Yolk.  It 
can  be  distinctly  seen  from  the  Observatory  mentioned 
hereafter,  and  the  exact  spot  is  pointed  out  where  John 
Stark  stood  when  he  made  the  famous  address  to  his 
troops :  "See  there,  men !  there  are  the  red-coats !  Before 
to-night  they  are  ours,  or  Molly  Stark  will  be  a  widow  I" 

ISIount  Anthony  is  the  chief  natural  object  of  interest  in 
this  vicinity.  It  stands  3  miles  behind  the  Mount  Anthony 
House,  on  a  by-path,  and  4|  miles  by  carriage-road.  A 
to^ver  was  erected  on  the  summit  in  1864,  100  feet  high  ; 
from  this,  one  of  the  finest  views  of  Vennont  is  to  be  had. 
There  are  accommodations  for  man  and  beast  at  this  obser- 
vatory. 

Bennington  also  boasts  fine  drives,  among  which  Peters- 
burg and  Prospect  Mountains  are  sought,  affording  delight- 
ful views.  On  the  road  beyond  Prospect,  at  Woodford,  we 
nass  the  Big  Pond,  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water.  Just  above 
it,  on  the  first  eminence  of  the  road,  we  cross  the  water- 
shed dividing  the  valleys  of  the  Hudson  and  the  Connecti- 
cut, at  a  point  2600  feet  above  tide- water. 

Besides  these  attractions,  there  is  good  trout-fishing  in 
the  Green  Mountain  streams  hereabout. 

Chief  hotel,  the  Mount  Anthony  House,  Messrs.  Rogers 
&  Nutting,  proprietors ;  rooms  for  200  guests ;  trains  "3 
times  daily;  station  distant  3  minutes'  walk.  Time  to 
Troy,  1 J  hours.  Route  from  New- York,  Hudson  River  by 
boat  or  rail  to  Troy ;  thence  to  Bennington,  by  Troy  and 
Boston,  etc. 

Manchester. — The  village  of  Manchester  dates  from 


If'^ 


isiM 


ill 


)\ 


I, 


1 1 


90 


LAKES,    RIVERS,    AND   3I0UNTATNS. 


tlio  year  1701 ,  and  boasts  many  brilliant  Revolutionary  me- 
mories, which  form  a  pleasing  contrast  to  its  present  quaint 
and  quiet  ap[)earanco.  It  is  situate  in  a  valley  between  th<^ 
(Jreen  and  P^tjuinox  mountain  ranges,  distant  50  miJ  ^s  north 
from  'J Toy,  80  south  from  Rutland,  and  40  north-east  from 
Saratoga,  on  the  Bennington  and  Rutland  Railway.  The 
plcasantest  methods  of  approach  from  New- York  City  are 
by  the  10  A.M.  train  from  Thirtieth  street,  or  the  People's 
lino  steamboat,  at  6  P.M. ;  fare,  about  $G.  During  some 
portion  of  last  summer,  an  unpleasant  change  at  Iloosack 
was  made  necessary  by  the  railway  quarrels  common  to 
Western  Vermont,  and  passengers  were  compelled  to  reach 
Bennington  from  Iloosack  (4  miles)  by  horse-cara  ;  but 
these  annoyances  are  seldom  left  without  speedy  settle- 
ment. 

The  village  is  quiet  and  beautiful,  particularly  notice 
able  for  its  white  marble  pavements,  taken  from  the 
abounding  quarries  near  by.  The  telegraph  and  mail 
facilities  are  complete,  and  the  stranger  finds  excellent 
provision  for  rest  and  refreshment  at  the  Equinox  House, 
situated  at  the  base  of  Equinox  Mountain ;  this  hotel  is 
open  from  June  until  December, 

The  chief  attractions  of  Manchester  are  in  its  mountain 
scenery,  its  fishing  and  drives,  etc.  The  "  Equinox  Com- 
pnny"  has  stocked  several  artificial  ponds  half  a  mile  from 
the  hotel  with  trout ;  and  besides  these,  several  natural 
lakes  afford  a  variety  for  the  angler.  The  village  and  all 
its  environs  boast  fine  roads,  among  which  is  one  leading 
to  the  house  upon  the  summit  of  Mount  Equinox. 

Mount  Dorset  is  an  almost  wholly  isolated  peak  of  tlio 
Green  Mountain  range,  5  miles  north  of  the  village.  Its 
eastern  side  is  dotted  wdth  valuable  quarries  of  white  mar- 
ble; the  south  is  noted  for  an  extensive  cave,  contain- 


LAKES,   RIVERS,    AND   SIOUNTAINS. 


97 


)lutionarymo- 
>re8ont  quaint 
y  between  tln^ 
50  miJ  ^8  north 
:)rtli-ea8t  from 
ailway.  Tlio 
York  City  are 
r  the  People's 
During  some 
rro  at  Iloosack 
l8  common  to 
)ellecl  to  reach 
^rse-cars  ;  but 
speedy  settle- 

cularly  notice 
en  from  the 
,ph  and  mail 
inds  excellent 
[uinox  House, 
this  hotel  is 

its  mountain 

^quinox  Com- 

If  a  mile  from 

reral  natural 

lllage  and  all 

one  leading 

lOX. 

[peak  of  the 

Tillage.    Its 

If  white  mar- 

Lve,  contain- 


ing five  chambcn-s,  three  or  four  passages,  a  spring  of 
water,  etc.  Stratton  Gap  in  a  beautiful  gk'n  following  the 
precipitous  course  of  a  rivulet,  made  memorable  by  Mr.  A. 
B.  Dunvnd,  of  New- York,  in  one  of  his  finest  paintings. 

But  the  crowning  glory  of  the  place  is  Mount  Ecjuinox 
itself.  From  its  summit,  2917  feet  above  the  village  and 
8813  above  tide-water,  may  be  seen,  upon  clear  days, 
Lakes  George  and  Cham  plain,  the  Franconia  (and  Kear- 
sarge)  Mountains  of  New-llampshirc,  Graylock,  tl:<'  Lighi^st 
peak  in  Massachusetts,  Killington  Mountain,  third  in  Ver- 
mont, and  the  Catskills,  and  Saratoga  Village,  in  New-York. 
Half-way  up  the  southern  side  is  a  table-rock,  affording 
a  fine  view  of  the  subjacent  valley ;  and  on  the  southern 
side  is  Skinner  Hollow,  a  deep  indentation  in  the  moun- 
tain, appearing  like  a  vast  amphitheatre,  containing  far 
within  its  recesses  a  marble  quarry,  a  cave  which  holds 
the  winter  snow  throughout  the  year,  and  a  stream  which 
mysteriously  seeks  its  outlet  through  a  neighboring 
cavern.  These,  with  other  attractions  in  nature,  render 
Manchester  a  very  pleasing  and  popular  resort. 

PouLTNEY.  —  The  village  of  Poultney,  of  some  2200 
souls,  on  the  Rutland  and  Washington  road  or  division,  67 
miles  from  Troy,  affords  many  attractions  as  a  summer 
retreat.  The  gravelly  soil  renders  the  roads  for  miles  in 
all  directions  superior  for  i)leasure  rides  to  macadamized 
roads.  The  scenery  of  mountain  and  valley  is  varied  and 
picturesque.  The  air  is  dry  and  pure,  and  especially  favor- 
able to  those  afflicted  with  pulmonary  complaints.  Sum- 
mer board  can  be  obtained  during  July  and  August  at  (the 
Rev.  J.  Newman's)  Ripley  College.  The  localities  interest 
ing  to  visit  in  the  vicinity  are  Lake  Austin,  Lake  Bomba 
zine,  Bird  Mountain,  Rutland,  Hydesville,  Castleton,  West 
Castleton,  Fairhaven,  Granville,  and  the  quarries  both  of 
slate  and  of  marble. 


08 


LAKES,   RIVERS,    AND   3I0UNTAINS. 


',M 


Lake  Bombazine,  mostly  in  the  town  of  Castleton,  is  a 
beautiful  sheet  of  water,  9  miles  lon^.  Those  fond  of  boating 
and  fishing,  may  here  find  ample  opportunity  for  their  favor- 
ite sport.  Bass,  both  Oswego  and  rock,  pickerel  and  perch 
are  abundant.  Mr.  Heath  keeps  the  hotel  at  Hydeville 
and  a  boat-house  at  Heath's  Ferry.  Larned's  House  is 
also  at  Heath's  Ferry.  The  works  of  the  West-Castleton 
Slate  Company,  situated  on  the  western  shore  of  Lake 
Bombazine,  are  the  most  extensive  of  their  kind  in  this 
country.  Slate  in  the  largest  slabs  and  of  the  best  quality 
is  qrtarried  here,  wrought  into  a  great  variety  of  forms, 
and  marbleized  to  imitate  different  kinds  of  marble.  The 
ride  from  Poultney  to  West-Castleton  and  return  presents 
a  beauty  and  variety  of  scenery  seldom  equaled. 

At  Lake  Austin  is  the  Saint  Catherine  House,  C.  W. 
Potter,  proprietor,  to  be  addressed  at  Wells,  Vt,  This 
hotel  opens  June  18th,  1868.  Visitors  for  Lake  Austin  stop 
at  Granville,  N.  Y.,  or  Poultney,  Vt.,  station. 

Rutland. — Rutland,  Vt.,  85  miles  from  Troy,  67  from 
Burlington,  is  a  county-seat  with  some  8000  inhabitants. 
Hotels,  Bardwell  and  Central,  both  near  the  depot.  The 
village  is  an  important  one  upon  our  route,  not  less  than 
four  railways  making  it  a  station.  There  is  a  restaurant 
in  the  large  and  commodious,  if  not  elegant,  depot.  The 
visitor  will  first  be  struck  with  the  peculiar  appearance 
which  the  streets  present,  on  account  of  their  being  paved 
with  white  marble.  The  quarries,  near  by,  will  abun- 
dantly repay  one  for  a  visit.  The  summit  of  the  hill  uj^on 
which  Rutland  stands  affords  a  fine  view.  Otter  Creek 
passes  through  the  village.  There  are  a  number  of  inter- 
esting localities  which  the  tourist  may  visit  from  Rutland 
as  his  headquarters. 

Kiilington  Peak,  called  the  third  mountain  of  Vermont, 


NS. 


^astletun,  is  a 
md  of  boating 
for  their  favor- 
irel  and  percli 

at  Hydeville 
ed's  House  is 
Vest-Castleton 
jliore  of  Lake 
•  kind  in  tins 
le  best  quality 
iety  of  forms, 
marble.  The 
eturn  i^resents 
ded. 

House,  C.  W. 
lis,  Vt,  This 
ke  Austin  stop 

L. 

Troy,  67  from 
lO  inhabitants. 
|e  depot.  The 
not  less  than 
s  a  restaurant 
,  depot.  The 
r  appearance 
r  being  paved 
y,  will  abun- 
the  hill  upon 
Otter  Creek 
mber  of  inter- 
Ifrom  Rutland 


Glen  LiUs  Falls.  White  Mountains. 


of  Vermont, 


i 


!! 


."    1 


LAKES,   RIVE.IS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


99 


rises  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  village,  and  is  the  most 
important,  perhaps,  of  the  many  notable  spots  hereabout. 
To  the  foot  of  the  mountain  the  distance  is  7  miles,  and  2 
miles  more  to  the  summit.  On  the  north  side  is  a  perpen- 
dicular  ledge  of  200  feet,  called  Capitol  Rock.  Mount  Ida, 
too,  is  not  far  off,  beyond  Killington  Peak,  as  seen  from 
Itutland,  and  northward  are  Mount  Pico  and  Castleton 
Ridge,  shutting  out  the  view  of  Lake  Champlain. 

Clarendon  Springs,  a  favorite  place  of  resort,  is  a  few 
miles  south  of  Rutland,  on  the  Rutland  and  Washington 
Railway.  Stages  run  from  West-Rutland  Station,  4  miles 
south  of  Rutland.  The  medicinal  virtues  of  these  waters, 
the  varied  and  beautiful  scenery,  the  pleasant  drives 
around,  and  the  excellent  hotel  accommodations,  make 
this  watering-place  a  very  desirable  summer  halt. 

MiDDLEBURY. — The  oldest  college  in  the  State  of  Ver- 
mont, founded  1800,  (commencement  second  week  in 
August,)  gives  a  classic  appearance  to  the  pleasant  town 
of  Middlebury,  situated  on  one  of  the  numerous  falls  of 
Otter  Creek.  The  principal  fall  of  this  stream,  40  feet 
high,  bears  the  distinctive  title  of  its  parent,  and  is  at 
Vergennes,  about  7  miles  from  Lake  Champlain,  46  miles 
from  Rutland,  and  21  miles  from  Burlington. 

The  Addison  House,  at  Middlebury,  is  a  large  and  excel- 
lent country  hotel,  and  is  a  favorite  point  of  departure  for 
a  very  interesting  region  of  Vermont.  Lake  Castleton, 
Belden's  Falls,  Elgin  Springs,  etc.,  are  but  a  short  distance 
away.    Carriages  may  be  had  at  reasonable  rates. 

Lake  Dunmore,  8  miles  by  stage,  is  a  wonderfully  pic- 
turesque  lake,  5  miles  long  and  3  wide,  surrounded  at 
most  points  by  bold  hills,  and  containing  plenty  of  fish 
A  good  summer  liotel  and  several  cottages  tempt  the 
tourist  to  delay  his  departure  indefinitely. 

Univcrsrtd  •  Ottawa  •  Un/versitjj 
Map  Ubrary 


100 


LAKES,   EIVERS,    AND   MOUNTAINS. 


') 


Bkandon  is  just  mid  way  (16  miles)  from  Rutland  and 
Middlebuiy.  It  is  interesting  for  its  mineral  resources ; 
particularly,  the  tourist  will  visit  two  caverns  of  limestone, 
tlie  largest  containing  two  apartments,  each  from  16  to  20 
feet  square.    The  entrance  is  20  feet  below  the  surface. 

Saint  Alban's. — On  the  direct  route  between  Burling- 
ton and  Montreal,  stands  St.  Alban's,  Vt.  The  Welden 
House,  Messrs.  Cool  &  McDonald,  is  a  large  and  first-class 
hotel,  with  a  sulphur  spring  within  its  control.  The 
scenery  near  Saint  Alban's  is  considered  unequaled,  espe- 
cially a  view  from  the  summit  of  Aldis  Hill  and  Bellevue. 
The  village  itself  is  very  attractive,  and  by  some  is  called 
the  most  beautiful  in  this  State.  The  famous  rebel  raid 
from  Canada  here  took  place,  Oct.  19th,  1864. 


il  { 


Ui 


'\ 


! 


If  !' 


MOGSILAUEE  MOUNTAIN,  WAKEEN,  N.  H. 

Moosilauke  Mountain  can  be  reached  by  one  of  the  re- 
gular lines  of  communication  northward  by  rail.  Leaving 
Concord,  N.  H.,  via  Concord  and  Montreal  Railway,  a  few 
hours'  ride  brings  you  to  the  little  town  of  Warren.  Here 
excursionists  will  find  accommodations  for  the  ascent  of 
the  mountain,  which  can  be  accomplished  on  foot  or  horse- 
back. The  proprietor  of  the  Prospect  House,  on  the  sum- 
mit of  the  mountain,  usually  accompanies  travelers  in 
their  ascent,  entertaining  them  with  wild  and  fantastic 
stories  of  bears  and  wolves — certainly  he  has  a  natural 
faculty  of  imparting  a  good  deal  of  the  genial  nature 
within  to  those  natures  without.  He  believes  "  it  of  no 
use  to  tell  a  story,  unless  you  call  the  mind  into  action.^* 

Viewed  from  the  south  side  of  the  town,  Moosilauke 
presents  two  peaks  bold,  bald,  and  distinct.  Standing  upon 
the  highest  of  these  and  turning  around  slowly  upon  your 
heel,  the  eye  comprehends,  to  the  northward,  the  Valley 


*^.i 


INS. 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


101 


Rutland  and 
ral  resources; 
3  of  limestone, 
from  16  to  20 
he  surface, 
veen  Burling- 
The  Welden 
and  first-class 
control.  The 
equaled,  espe- 
and  Bellevue. 
some  is  called 
)us  rebel  raid 


J,  N.  H. 
one  of  tlie  re- 
•ail.    Leaving 
ailway,  a  few 
/"arren.    Here 
lie  ascent  of 
foot  or  liorse- 
,  on  the  sum- 
travelers  in 
nd  fantastic 
as  a  natural 
enial  nature 
es  "  it  of  no 
to  action." 
Moosilauke 
nding  upon 
upon  your 
,  the  Valley 


of  the  Connecticut  and  the  table-lands  of  Canada  ;  to  the 
eastward,  the  finest  possible  view  of  the  White  and  Fran- 
conia  Mountains ;  to  the  southward,  the  ocean,  dimly  fleck- 
I  '  ing  the  horizon  ;  to  the  westward,  the  rolling  Green  Moun- 
\''  tains  of  Vermont,  with  Camel's  Hump  and  Mount  Marcy 
of  the  Catskill  Range,  New- York. 

Moosilauke,  from  its  height  and  isolated  position,  com- 
mands many  advantages  over  all  other  mountains  in  New- 
England.  The  view  from  Mount  Washington  is  more 
grand,  no  doubt.  But  the  surrounding  peaks  shut  down 
close  and  allow  you  no  distance,  the  charm  of  mountain 
Bcenery.  Moosilauke  has  every  thing  her  own  way.  No 
high  cliffs  say  to  you,  "  Thus  far,  and  no  farther."  The 
very  best  time  for  ascending  the  mountain  is  in  a  storm. 
A  clear  summer's  day,  "  tenderly  illumined,"  is  very  fine 
[  indeed. 

WILLOUGHBY  LAKE. 

In  the  town  of  Westmore,  in  Northern  Vermont,  30 
miles  from  the  Canada  line,  and  350  from  New- York 
City,  is  Willoughby  Lake,  whose  scenery  geologically 
resembles  that  of  the  Yo  Semite  Valley  in  California. 
The  lake  is  6  miles  long,  the  northern  end  curving  a 
little  to  the  east,  and  from  a  half  to  2  miles  wide.  Its 
depth  is  so  great  that  no  reliable  measurement  has  been 
made.  Between  the  mountains,  in  the  narrowest  place, 
where  the  water  is  the  deepest,  it  has  been  sounded  to  the 
depth  of  600  feet,  and  no  bottom  was  found.  On  either 
side  rises  a  huge  mountain  to  more  than  2000  feet.  Mount 
Willoughby,  on  the  east  side,  being  2638  feet  above  the 
lake,  and  3800  feet  above  the  sea.  A  carriage-road  was 
constructed  several  years  ago  along  the  eastern  shore,  from 
which  may  be  had  a  better  view  of  the  mighty  grandeur 


102 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND  MOUNTAINS. 


!    k 


•I!    t 


\'i 


of  Mount  Willougliby  than  from  any  other  point  near  its 
base.  For  nearly  2  miles  a  perpendicular  wall  of  granite 
rock,  intermingled  with  silicious  limestone,  rises  to  the 
height  of  GOO  feet,  while  below,  between  it  and  the  lake, 
the  side  of  the  mountain,  more  than  1000  feet  in  height, 
covered  with  huge  rocks,  is  little  less  than  perpendicular 
to  the  summit. 

Leaving  the  hotel  j  ust  south  of  the  lake,  you  enter  the 
woods,  and  after  a  walk  of  2  miles  through  the  forest  of 
maple,  beech,  and  spruce,  passing  two  springs  of  the  purest 
and  coldest  of  water,  you  reach  the  summit,  and  obtain  a 
grand  view.  East  are  the  Franconia  and  White  Moun- 
tains; the  Tip-Top  House  of  Mount  Washington  being 
easily  seen  with  a  glass  in  a  clear  day.  West  is  the  entire 
range  of  the  Green  Mountains,  among  which  can  be  seen 
the  summits  of  Killington  Peak,  Camel's  Hump,  Mount 
Mansfield,  and  Jay  Peak.  Between  these  two  great  moun- 
tain ranges,  and  within  your  vision,  are  ponds,  wide  forests, 
cultivated  fields,  farm-houses,  and  villages,  forming  a 
magnificent  scene.  Next,  going  further  to  the  west,  and 
approaching  close  to  the  precipice,  you  look  down  upon 
the  lake,  2500  feet  below.  The  purity  and  ''ansparency  of 
the  water  of  the  lake  is  here  observed.  Along  its  shores, 
for  several  miles,  every  rock  and  sunken  log  can  be  seen. 
From  here  is  a  view  of  the  entire  length  of  the  lake,  the 
eastern  shore  of  which  seems  almost  in  a  straight  line. 
Mount  Hor,  on  the  west  side,  and  Mount  Willoughby  on 
the  east,  have  the  appearance  of  once  having  been  U7iited. 

The  walks  and  drives  around  Willoughby  are  numerous 
and  pleasant.  That  down  the  lake  shore,  under  the  frown- 
ing walls  of  Mount  Willoughby,  will  first  claim  attention. 
The  scenery  down  the  entire  length  of  the  lake  is  grand 
and  beautiful,  although  not  so  rugged  as  it  is  before  reach- 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS.  103 


)r  point  near  its 
wall  of  granite 
ne,  rises  to  the 
it  and  tlie  lake, 
3  feet  in  lieiglit, 
a.  perpendicular 

e,  you  enter  the 
o-h  the  forest  of 
igs  of  the  purest 
lit,  and  obtain  a 
d  White  Moun- 
ishington  being 
''est  is  the  entire 
iiich  can  be  seen 
3  Hump,  Mount 
two  great  moun- 
ids,  wide  forests, 
ges,   forming  a 
to  the  west,  and 
ook  down  upon 
^ansparency  of 
long  its  shores, 
Off  can  be  seen, 
of  the  lake,  the 
a  straight  line. 
Willoughby  on 
ng  been  wiited. 
)y  are  numerous 
mder  the  frown- 
claim  attention, 
le  lake  is  grand 
is  before  reacli- 


•m 


incr  Point  of  Rocks.  The  distances  from  the  hotel  to  othei 
places  of  interest,  are  :  Island  Pond,  where  there  is  a  grand 
hotel,  20  miles ;  Newport,  by  team,  20 ;  Derby  Line,  22 ; 
Stanstead  Plain,  23;  Saint  Johnsbury,  22^;  Barton,  11; 
West-Charleston,  10 ;  Burke  Mountain,  10 ;  West-Burke. 
[6;  Newark,  6. 

On  the  road  to  Barton,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  east  ot 
the  depot,  is  the  Flume.  The  stream  from  May's  Pond 
passes  through  it,  descending  into  Crystal  Lake.  In  the 
Bolid  granite  rock  is  a  passage-way  for  the  water,  140  feet 
long,  10  feet  wide,  and  from  20  to  30  feet  in  depth.  The 
walls  rise  almost  perpendicularly,  and  are  as  smooth  as  if 
cut  by  the  hand  of  man.  Some  utilitarian  has  constructed 
0>  saw-mill  over  it,  and  turned  it  to  practical  account,  thus 
ilgreatly  marring  its  beauty.  It  is,  however,  well  worth 
visiting. 

Plunket  Falls,  in  Clyde  River,  at  Charleston,  12  miles 
I  from  Willoughby  Lake  House,  are  exceedingly  beautiful. 
i  Here  the  river  makes  a  descent  of  100  feet  in  a  half-mile, 
and  at  one  point  below  the  saw-mill  it  makes  almost  a  per- 
pendicular fall  of  30  feet.  Another  favorite  ride  from  the 
hotel  is  to  Newark  Hill,  from  which  can  be  seen  the 
White  and  Green  Mountain  ranges. 

Hotel. — Excepting  a  summer  residence,  built  by  a 
gentleman  of  Newark,  N.  J.,  and  the  houses  of  the  hotel, 
there  are  no  buildings  in  the  vicinity  of  Willoughby  Lake. 
The  place  is,  therefore,  commendable  chiefly  to  families 
desiring  a  quiet  summer  retreat,  surrounded  by  the  best 
of  mountain  and  lake  scenery,  and  withdrawn  from  the 
noisy  centres  of  travel.  The  Willoughby  Lake  House  has 
accommodations  for  50  to  100  boarders,  at  rural  terms. 
Proprietor,  Mr.  Alonzo  Bemis.  Carriages  wait  at  West 
Burke  Railway  Station,  6  miles  distant.     Lake  Memphre- 


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104 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


magog  is  28  miles  north  of  West-Burke,  and  White  Rivei 
Junction  77  i?outh.  The  hotel  is  supplied  with  pure,  cold 
spring  water,  brought  in  pipes  from  the  hillside.  From 
the  hotel  it  runs  north  into  the  lake,  and  thence  into  Lake 
Memphremagog  and  the  Saint  Lawrence.  About  20  rods 
in  the  rear  of  the  hotel  is  a  little  lakelet,  which  discharges 
into  a  small  stream  running  south  into  the  Passumpsic, 
and  thence  into  the  Connecticut.  It  is  situated  so  near  the 
water-shed  between  Long  Island  Sound  and  the  Saint  Law- 
rence, that  a  few  hours'  work  would  change  its  outlet  from 
the  Connecticut  to  the  Saint  Lawrence. 

Route. — From  New- York,  by  New-Haven,  Worcester, 
and  Springfield,  and  Connecticut  River  Railways;  from 
Boston,  by  Cheshire  Railway  to  Bellows  Falls ;  tlience  by 
Connecticut  and  Passumpsic  Railway  to  West-Burke 
Station,  where  the  hotel  carriages  may  be  found. 

UP  >LAK£    SUPERIOR. 

The  most  varied  summer  trip  that  can  be  taken  in  this 
country  is  up  Lake  Superior,  across  the  wilderness  to  Saint 
Paul,  and  down  the  Mississippi  River.  It  requires  four  or 
six  weeks,  and  costs  each  tourist  not  far  from  $300,  includ 
ing  hotel  and  all  expenses.  We  know  every  inch  of  the 
way,  and  can  assure  pleasure  and  health-seekers  that  they 
can  nowhere  find  safer  or  more  inspiring  recreation. 

The  best  months  in  the  year  for  the  Lake  Superior  trip 
are  July  and  August.  During  September  there  are  very 
likely  to  be  gales  upon  the  lakes.  The  tourist  can  take  the 
boat  at  Cleveland  or  Detroit,  and  will  be  about  5  days  in 
reaching  Ontonagon,  where  most  of  the  boats  stop,  or  C 
to  Superior  City,  the  extreme  end  of  the  lake,  and  where 
the  steamer  Keweenaw  alone  goes.  The  fare  is  about  $30 
from  Cleveland,  which  includes  state-room,  board,  and 


\.INS. 


LAKES,  RIVERS,    AND   MOUNTAIXS. 


105 


,d  White  Rivei 
with  pure,  cold  | 
lillside.  From  | 
lence  into  Lake 
About  20  rods 
hich  discharges 
he  Passuiiipsic, 
ated  so  near  the 
I  the  Saint  Law- 
}  its  outlet  from 


iren,  Worcester, 
Railways;  from 
ills;  thence  by 
to  West-Burke 
found. 


}G  taken  in  this 
.erness  to  Saint 
•equires  four  or 
|m  $300,  includ 
jery  inch  of  tho 
ekers  that  they 
creation. 
e  Superior  trip 
[there  are  very 
Lst  can  take  the 
|.bout  5  days  in 
^oats  stop,  or  6 
ike,  and  where 
•e  is  about  $30 
L,  board,  and 


every  thing.    The  names  of  tho  boats  for  the  year  1868  are 

as  follows  :  Northwest,  Capt.  Kirtland ;  Keweenaw,  Capt. 

■* Stewart;   Meteor,  Capt.  Wilson;   Northern  Light,  Capt. 

sMurch;  Concord,  Capt.  Mclntyre.    The  Northwest  will 

irun  between  Detroit  and  Portage,  leaving  Detroit  every 

'^Tuesday  evening.    This  steamer  will  make  occasional  cx- 

•IBursion  trips  about  the  north  shore  of  Lake  Superior.    Tho 

other  steamers  wall  run  from  Cleveland  to  Ontonagon,  150 

miles  below  Superior  City.    The  Keewenaw  will  run  to  tho 

Htter  place.    The  round  trip  will  occupy  2  weeks.    A 

iSleamer  will  leave  Detroit  every  Thursday  and  Saturday. 

jI  Very  many,  in  fact  the  majority  of  lake  tourists,  make 

like  round  trip  on  the  same  steamer.    This  costs  only 

#out  $00,  and  is  really  very  delightful.     The  steamers 


re  staunch  and  elegant,  and  life  upon  them  is  varied  by 

lucli  that  is  pleasant. 

The  navigation  of  the  upper  lakes  is  as  safe  as  traveling 
any  part  of  the  country.    Very  erroneous  impressions 

:ist  with  regard  to  this  matter,  because  of  several  disas-. 

jrs  which  occurred  during  autumn  gales.  The  very 
Itrongest  vessels  are  built  for  the  line,  and  the  most  expert 
officers  are  placed  in  charge.  We  know  enough  of  the  plea- 
lures  of  the  lake  trip  to  assure  tourists  that  they  will  be  de- 
lighted beyond  measure.    It  is  an  uncommon,  rather  than 

common  thing,  for  tourists  by  the  steamers  to  be  sea-sick. 

After  leaving  Detroit,  the  tourist  passes  through  Lake 
Jahit  Clair,  on  the  shores  of  which  are  many  elegant  resi- 
lences.  There  is  nothing  of  special  interest  till  you  have 
grossed  Lake  Huron  and  arrived  at  the  great  ship-canal  in  the 
Jaint  Mary's  River.  Twenty  miles  below  you  pass  Church's 
sanding,  noted  for  "raspberry-jam  "  and  Indian  curiosities. 

Under  River  Settlement  is  an  Indian  village  10  miles  be- 

)w.    At  the  Saut  Sainte  Marie,  or  "  Soo,"  as  every  body  in 


^H    II  ff  H- 

^^m     II  E  ^Mi 

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100 


LAKES,    RIVERS,    AND   MOUNTAINS. 


the  West  calls  it,  the  rapids  in  the  river  that  unite  Laki 
Huron  and  Superior  descend  20  feet  in  a  mile,  totally  ol 
structing  navigation.  The  ship-canal,  however,  which  hn 
recently  been  constructed  on  the  American  side,  obviate 
this  difficulty.  Steamers  of  a  large  class  now  pass  throug 
the  locks  into  Lake  Superior,  greatly  facilitating  trade  an 
commerce.  The  village  on  the  American  side  is  pleasantl 
situated  near  the  foot  of  the  rapids,  and  contains  a  cour 
house  and  jail ;  a  Presbyterian,  a  Methodist,  and  a  Roma 
Catholic  church;  2  hotels,  and  15  or  20  stores  and  store 
houses,  besides  a  few  manufacturing  establishments,  an( 
about  1200  inhabitants.  Many  of  the  inhabitants  and  In 
dians  in  the  vicinity  are  engaged  in  the  fur  trade  and  fisli 
eries,  the  latter  being  an  important  and  profitable  occupa 
tion.  Summer  visitors  flock  to  this  place  and  the  Lak( 
Superior  country  for  health  and  pleasure.  The  Chippewt 
House,  a  well-kept  hotel  on  the  American  side,  and  one  on 
the  Canadian  side  of  the  river,  both  aflbrd  good  accommo 
dations. 

Fort  Brady  is  an  old  and  important  United  States  mill 
tary  post  contiguous  to  this  frontier  village,  where  aru 
barracks  for  a  full  garrison  of  troops.  It  commands  the 
Saint  Mary's  River  and  the  approach  to  the  mouth  of  tlie 
canal. 

Saut  Sainte  Marie,  Ontario,  is  a  scattered  settlement,! 
where  is  located  a  part  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company.    Heroj 
is  a  steamboat  landing,  a  hotel,  and  2  or  3  stores,  including | 
the  lludson  Bay  Company's ;  and  it  has  from  500  to  600  in 
habitants.    Indians  of  the  Chippewa  tribe  reside  in  tlio 
vicinity  in  considerable  numbers,  they  having  the  exclusive 
right  to  take  fish  in  the  waters  contiguous  to  the  rapids, 
They  also  employ  themselves  in  running  the  rapids  in  theii 
frail  canoes,  when  desired  by  citizens  or  strangers. 


TAINS. 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS.  107 


that  unite  Lakes 
I  mile,  totally  ob 
vvever,  wliicli  has 
;aii  side,  obviates 
low  pass  througli 
itating  trade  and 
side  is  pleasantly 
contains  a  court- 
iist,  and  a  Homau 
stores  and  store-' 
tablishments,  and 
ihabitants  and  In- 
:ur  trade  and  fish 
profitable  occupa- 
ice  and  the  Lake 
).  The  Chippewa 
side,  and  one  on 
•d  good  accommo 

iiited  States  mill 
illage,  where  ari' 
;t  commands  the 
Itlie  mouth  of  tlie'l 

Itered  settlement 
Company.  Here 
stores,  including 
:om  500  to  600  in 
ibe  reside  in  the 
[ing  the  exclusive 
)us  to  the  rapids  J 
[he  rapids  in  tlieii  | 
strangers. 


This  canal,  which  connects  the  navigation  of  Lake  Supe- 
rior with  the  lower  lakes,  is  1  mile  in  length,  and  cost 
about  $1,000,000.    The  stupendous  task  of  building  it  was 
I  accomplished  in  the   years  1853,  '54,  '55,  by  the   Saint 
[ary's  Falls  Ship-Canal  Company,  under  a  contract  with 
"commissioners  appointed  by  the  authorities  of  the  State  of 
Michigan  to  secure  the  building  of  the  canal.    A  grant 
of  750,000  acres  of  the  public  land  had  previously  been 
made  by  Congress  to  the  State  of  Michigan  to  aid  in  the 
construction  of  this  important  work. 

This  grant  of  750,000  acres  was  given  to  the  parties  con- 
tracting for  the  building  of  the  canal,  provided  the  work 
should  be  completed  within  two  years  from  the  date  of 
|lie  contract.     The  work  was  commenced  May,  1853,  and 

mipleted  within  the  time  specified  in  the  contract,  {two 
fears!)  a  result  reached  under  many  disadvantages,  dur- 
ing a  very  sickly  season,  and  when  great*  difficulty  was 
experienced  in  obtaining  laborers ;  but  the  unremitting 
'■igor  of  those  who  had  the  charge  of  the  work  secured  its 
jompletion  in  the  most  substantial,  permanent,  and  accep- 
[table  manner.     During  much  of  the  time,  from  1200  to 
1600  men  were  employed  upon  the  work,  exclusive  of  the 
force  at  the  different  quarries  where  the  stone  was  cut  and 
i  prepared  for  the  locks,  beside  a  large  force  employed  in 
I  other  necessary  agencies,  such  as  getting  timber,   etc. 
The  stones  for  the  locks  were  cut  at  Anderden,  Canada, 
(near  Maiden,)  and  at  Marblehead,  near  Sandusky,  in  Ohio. 
Tliese  were  sent  in  vessels  to  the  work,  some  25  different 
sailing  vessels  being  employed  in  this  business. 

On  leaving  the  ship-canal  at  the  Saut,  the  steamer  as- 
cends a  beautiful  stretch  of  the  Saint  Mary's  River  for  10 
miles  before  reaching  Waiska  Bay,  being  an  expansion  of 


108 


LAKES,    RIVERS,    AND   MOUNTAINS. 


H    ii   i 


m 


II  1:3 


',»! 


,  li 


1 


I '''if 


i' 


tlio  river  of  about  5  miles.  Hero  the  shores  asRumc  a  hold 
a])[>('iinine(3  well  worthy  the  attention  of  the  traveler  befon- 
lauiK.'hinjjf  out  on  the  waters  of  the  broad  lake. 

Iro(|iiois  Point,  on  the  American  side^  and  Gros  Caj),  on 
the  Canadian  side,  are  next  passed,  15  miles  from  the  Saut 
Sainte  Marie.  The  latter  is  a  bold  promontory,  rising  some 
400  or  .jOO  feet  above  the  water,  with  still  higher  hills 
rising"  in  the  distance. 

Ton(|uamenon  Bay  is  next  entered,  and  a  scene  of  gran- 
deur is  presented  to  the  view ;  on  the  south-west,  or  Ameri- 
can shore,  the  land  rises  to  a  moderate  height,  while  on  the 
north-east,  or  Canada  shore,  the  land  rises  to  mountain 
height,  being  elevated  from  800  to  1000  feet,  running  ott' 
far  in  the  distance  toward  the  north. 

Parisien  and  other  islands,  attached  to  Canada,  are  pass- 
(kI  on  the  right,  the  bay  be*  t  about  25  miles  long  and  as 
many  broad ;  in  fact,  fori  ;  a  part  of  Lake  Superior, 
whose  pure  waters  are  in  full  view  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
reach. 

Uoulais  Bay  and  Point,  another  bold  headland,  lie  to 
the  north  of  Gros  Cap. 

The  Pictured  Rocks,  of  which  almost  fabulous  accounts 
are  given  by  travelers,  are  one  of  the  wonders  of  Lake  Su- 
l^erior.  Here  are  to  be  seen  the  Cascade  Falls  and  other 
objects  of  great  interest.  The  Amphitheatre,  Miners' 
Castle,  Chapel,  Grand  Portal,  and  Sail  Rock,  are  points  of 
great  picturesque  beauty. 

Just  opposite  the  Pictured  Rocks  is  Grand  Island,  125 
miles  distant  from  the  Saut,  about  10  miles  long  and  5 
wide,  lying  close  in  to  the  south  shore.  This  is  a  w^ild 
and  romantic  island.  There  are  several  romantic  bays 
and  inlets  protected  from  storms  which  are  frequent  on 


A  INS. 


IS  assume  a  bolii 

3  traveler  before 

ako. 

iid  Gros  Cap,  on 

;8  from  the  Saut 

ory,  rising  some 

ill  liiglier  hills 

a  scene  of  gran- 
i-west,  or  Ameri- 
j-ht,  while  on  the 
ics  to  mountain 
eet,  running  off 

/anada,  are  pass- 

iles  long  and  as 

Lake  Superior, 

as  the  eye  can 

leadland,  lie  to 

bulous  accounts 
ers  of  Lake  Sn- 
ails and  other 
leatre,  Miners' 
,  are  points  of 

md  Island,  125 
es  long  and  5 
This  is  a  wild 
romantic  bays 
re  frequent  on 


I 


9 


I 

i 


I! 


)  H    I 


atf>- 


rf/ffi 


0 


LAKES,   KIVEKS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


109 


Lake  Superior,  where  brook  trout  of  a  large  size  can  be 
caught  in  quantities.  The  forests  also  afford  a  delightful 
retreat. 

A  few  families  reside  on  the  south  shore,  facing  the 
mainland,  where  is  a  clearing  of  considerable  extent.  The 
main-shore  in  full  sight,  and  the  Pictured  Rocks,  visible 
from  its  eastern  shore,  altogether  add  a  charm  to  this  truly- 
Grand  Island,  unsurpassed  by  no  other  spot  in  this  Inter- 
esting region. 

Munising,  formerly  called  Grand  Islpnd  City,  lies  on  the 
south  side  of  Grand  Island  Bay,  here  about  3  miles  in  width. 
Here  is  a  steamboat  wharf  and  hotel,  together  with  a  few 
dwellings,  destined,  without  doubt,  to  become  a  favorite 
place  of  resort,  as  from  this  place  the  Pictured  Rocks  can 
be  easily  reached  by  canoes  or  small  boats  during  calm 
weather.  Trout  fishing  is  also  good  in  Ann's  River,  which 
enters  Grand  Island  Bay,  and  in  Miner's  River,  near  the 
Pictured  Rocks. 

The  bay  or  harbor  is  capacious,  deep,  and  easy  of  access 
from  the  east  or  west,  being  6  miles  in  length  by  from  2 
to  4  in  width,  with  a  depth  of  \7ater  of  100  feet  and  up- 
ward. It  is  perfectly  land-locked  by  liills  rising  from  100 
to  300  feet  high,  and  capacious  enough  to  contain  the  en- 
tire fleet  of  the  lakes. 

The  traveler  desirous  of  visiting  the  Pictured  Rocks 
should  take  advantage  of  one  of  the  steamers  or  propellers 
which  navigate  the  lake,  and  land  at  Grand  Island,  from 
which  he  can  proceed  to  make  the  tour  of  tne  interesting 
points  in  a  small  boat.  The  large  vessels  on  the  lake  do 
not  approach  sufficiently  near  the  cliffs  to  allow  the  traveler 
to  gather  more  than  a  general  idea  of  their  position  ai:d 
outlines.  To  be  able  to  appreciate  and  understand  their 
extraordinary  character,  it  is  indispensable  to  coast  along 


110  LAKES,   EIVEKS,   AND  MOUNTAINS. 


if 


.V 


:iii| 


in  close  proximity  to  the  cliff's,  and  pass  beneath  the  Grand 
Portal,  which  is  only  accessible  from  the  lake,  and  to  land 
and  enter  within  the  precincts  of  the  Chapel.    At  Grand 
Island,  boats,  men,  and  provisions  may  be  procured.    The 
traveler  should  lay  in  a  good  supply,  if  it  is  intended  to  be 
absent  long  enough  to  make  a  thorough  examination  of 
the  whole  series.    In  fact,  an  old  voyager  will  not  readily 
trust  himself  to  the  mercy  of  the  winds  and  waves  of  the 
lake  without  them,  as  he  may  not  unfrequently,  however 
auspicious  the  weather  when  starting,  find  himself  weather- 
bound for  days  together.     It  is  possible,  however,  in  one 
day,  to  start  from  Grand  Island,  see  the  most  interesting 
points,  and  return.    The  distance  from  William's  to  the 
Chapel — the  farthest  point  of  interest — is  about  15  miles. 
After  the  Pictured  Rocks,  Marquette  is  the  next  place  of 
interest.    This  is  the  largest  place  on  the  lake,  and  is 
chiefly  interesting  for  its  famous  iron  mines,  12  miles  back 
from  the  town. 

On  leaving  Marquette,  the  tourist  passes  Granite  Island, 
the  Huron  Isles,  and  Huron  Bay,  and  passes  through  Port- 
age Entry  to  Houghton  and  Hancock,  the  celebrated  min- 
ing towns  of  the  copper-veined  Keweenaw  Point.  Here  is 
the  place  to  witness  copper  mining.  The  other  stopping- 
places  on  the  lake  are  Copper  Harbor,  Eagle  Harbor,  On- 
tonagon, Bayfield,  and  finally  Superior  City.  Modt  of  the 
steamers  go  no  farther  than  Ontonagon,  and  here  is  also  a 
capital  place  to  witness  copper  mining.  Bayfield  is  a  gov- 
ernment post,  and  is  settled  all  about  by  Chippewa  Indians. 
Superior  City  is  splendidly  situated  at  the  head  of  the  lake, 
and  between  the  two  rivers.  Saint  Louis  and  Nemeji. 

From  Superior  City  the  tourist  should  not  fail  to  take  a 
sail  along  the  north  shore  of  Lake  Superior,  stopping  at  Bea 
ver  Bay,  Encampment  River,  and  Isle  Royal.    This  latter 


3« 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


Ill 


L  tlie  Grand 
Bind  to  land 
At  Grand 
!ured.    The 
ended  to  be 
ruination  of 
not  readily 
mYes  of  tlie 
ly,  however 
jelf  weatlier- 
rever,  in  one 
t  interesting 
lam's  to  the 
out  15  miles, 
next  place  of 
lake,  and  is 
,2  miles  back 

•anite  Island, 
hrough  Port- 
ebrated  min- 
int.    Here  is 
ler  stopping- 
Harbor,  On- 
Modt  of  the 
ere  is  also  a 
eld  is  a  gov- 
,ewa  Indians, 
of  the  lake, 
emeji. 
fail  to  take  a 
)X)ing  at  Bea 
This  latter 


M 


is  the  great  storehouse  for  agates  and  chlorastolites.  The 
tourist  should  also  sail  up  the  Saint  Louis  River  20  miles  to 
Saint  Louis  Falls,  which  have  a  fall  of  60  feet.  If  he  can  get 
his  craft  around  the  falls,  he  can  ascend  the  Saint  Louis  80 
miles  farther.  Adventurous  young  ladies  and  gentlemen 
will  accomplish  quite  a  feat  by  visiting  Black  River  Falls, 
12  miles  from  Superior  City. 

Tri- weekly  stages  go  from  Superior  City  to  Saint  Paul,  a 
distance  of  163  miles.  The  time  occupied  is  3  days,  and 
the  fare  about  $15.  It  is  a  wild  and  interesting  trip  to 
take. 

Altoge.ther,  the  Lake  Superior  trip  is  a  splendid  one  in- 
deed, especially  for  any  who  are  troubled  with  bronchial 
or  pulmonary  affections.  The  air  is  cool  and  dry,  and  ex- 
ceedingly invigorating. 

SAINT  LOUIS  AND  VICINITY. 

At  the  eastern  border  of  the  great  journey  "  across  the 
Continent,"  which  must  be  included  in  guide-books  of  our 
era,  stands  the  city  of  Saint  Louis.  Situated  as  it  is,  almost 
midway  between  two  oceans,  and  near  the  geographical 
centre  of  the  finest  agricultural  region  on  the  globe,  almost 
at  the  very  focus  toward  which  converge  the  Mississippi, 
the  Missouri,  the  Ohio,  and  the  Illinois  Rivers,  there  can 
be  no  doubt  that  it  is  destined  to  become,  at  no  distant 
period,  the  great  receiving  and  distributing  depot  of  most 
of  the  vast  region  drained  by  these  streams.  Its  natural 
advantages  as  a  commercial  emporium  may  be  confidently 
compared  with  those  of  any  other  inland  port  in  the  world. 
The  first  settlement  on  the  present  site  was  made  Feb.  15th, 
1764,  by  Pierre  Liqueste  Laclede,  leader  of  a  company  of 
merchants,  under  grant  from  the  Director-General  of  Louis- 
iana.   The  spot  was  carefully  selected,  after  comparison 


m  t 


"J».Mi|lUi««»-l"'<llft«^" 


■"    il     i 


^i! 


112 


LAKES,    KIVERS,  AND  3I0UNTAINS. 


with  many  other  points  on  the  Mississippi  shore.  In  1770, 
there  were  40  families  at  the  settlement.  The  first  brick 
house  was  erected  in  1813.  A  city  charter  was  given  1822. 
About  the  year  1825,  the  great  State  of  Illinois  began  to 
grow  and  increase,  and  this  gave  Saint  Louis  its  first  great 
impulse.  The  occupation  of  the  river  by  steamboat  trade, 
(the  first  steamer  arrived  at  the  city  in  1817,)  began  to  as- 
sume magnificent  proportions  in  1822,  and  is  now  unsur- 
passed by  any  western  city.  Present  population  not  far 
from  200,000.  Saint  Louis  was  taken  possession  of  Aug. 
11th,  1768,  by  a  company  of  Spanish  troops,  under  Captain 
Rious,  in  the  name  of  his  king,  and  remained  under  that 
control  until  its  transfer  to  the  United  States  in  1804.  The 
British  threatened  it  in  1780,  but  to  no  avail. 

Hotels. — Saint  Louis  has  been  able  to  boast  of  the  grand- 
est hotel  in  the  United  States ;  but  an  unlucky  fire  during 
the  spring  of  1867  destroyed  its  glory,  unless  the  visitor 
concede  to  the  fellow  of  the  Lindell,  the  Southern  House, 
an  equal  elegance.  The  Southern  stands  on  the  block 
bounded  by  Fourth,  Fifth,  Walnut,  and  Elm  streets,  and 
contains  500  rooms.  The  Planters'  Hotel,  on  Fourth  street, 
near  the  Court-House,  is  the  "  Astor"  of  Saint  Louis,  resem- 
bling that  ancient  structure  in  appearance  and  in  comfort, 
and  being  the  chief  old  established  house  of  entertain- 
ment. Next  after  the  Southern  and  the  Planters'  come 
Barnum's,  on  Walnut  and  Second  streets ;  and  yet  more 
moderate  in  price  is  the  Everett,  on  Fourth  near  Chestnut 
street.  The  "European  plan"  of  hotel-keeping  is  not 
known  among  the  chief  houses  in  this  city.  Horse-cars 
traverse  almost  all  portions  of  the  city  to  its  outer  limits. 

The  first  things  which  travelers  will  be  apt  to  notice 
v/ithin  the  city  of  St.  Louis,  after  the  everlasting  smoke 
from  bituminous  coal  to  which  all  western   cities  are 


■tt 


M 


II* 


LAKES,   raVEES,   AND   MOUNTAINS.  113 


i.  In  1770, 
first  brick 
Tiven  1823. 
is  began  to 
3  first  great 
iboat  trade, 
)egan  to  as- 
now  iinsur- 
ion  not  far 
ion  of  Aug. 
der  Captain 
under  that 
.1804.    The 

»f  the  grand- 
Y  fire  during 
s  the  visitor 
hern  House, 
the  block 
streets,  and 
•urth  street, 
louis,  resem- 
in  comfort. 
If  entertain- 
nters'  come 
d  yet  more 
lar  Chestnut 
liner  is  not 
Horse-cars 
ter  limits. 
t  to  notice 
Iting  smoke 
cities  are 


subject,  are,  the  beauty  of  the  building  material  used  for 
houses,  and  the  clean,  noiseless,  smooth  wooden  streets. 
The  famous  Nicholson  pavement  is  used  throughout  all 
the  recently  paved  sections.  The  material  used  in  the 
fronts  of  buildings  of  pretension  is  a  very  light  native 
stone,  most  nearly  approaching  cream-color,  quarried  not 
very  far  from  the  city.  It  affords  the  most  splendid  eflfects 
in  the  newer  buildings.  The  most  elegant  residence  street 
in  Saint  Louis,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  further  from  the 
river  than  the  late  Lindell  or  the  Everett,  is  Lucas  Place, 
a  short  but  wide  avenue,  paved  exceptionally  with  large 
oblong  blocks  of  white  granite,  which,  with  the  brilliant 
facades  of  the  mansions,  make  a  most  striking  and  attrac- 
tive appearance.  Lucas  Place  terminates  at  one  of  the 
few  miserable  parks — now  being  improved,  we  believe — 
which  detract  from  the  beauty  of  the  city.  There  is  at 
this  point  a  very  elegant  church  edifice,  of  the  Presbyte- 
rian denomination.  The  principal  business  street  of  the 
city  is  Fourth,  named  from  its  relative  position  back  from 
the  river,  to  which  it  runs  parallel.  Immediately  behind 
it  (Fifth)  is  the  next  street  of  importance.  The  older  por- 
tion of  the  town,  well  worthy  a  visit  for  its  remains  of  the 
French  civilization,  is  toward  the  south,  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  market  and  the  railway  depots  to  Iron  Mountain 
and  the  Pacific. 

Among  the  most  interesting  public  buildings  are  the 
Court-House,  on  Fourth  street,  with  an  elegantly  frescoed 
dome,  from  which  we  may  have  a  fine  view  of  the  city ; 
the  Mercantile  Library,  (with  the  best  public  hall,)  on 
Fifth  street,  where  are  some  of  the  finest  marbles  (Beatrice 
in  Prison,  Zenobia,  [copy  from  the  large  one,]  Puck,  and 
(Enone)  of  Miss  Harriet  Hosmer,  who  studied  here,  a  fine 
collection  of  old  paintings,  and  a  well-collected  library 


m 


114 


LAKES,   KIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


■j'i?|'  |t; 


'    'f* 


mi 


w;!|- 


the  Merchants'  Exchange  on  Main  (First)  and  Commercial 
streets — admission  by  permit  from  the  superintendent; 
the  Custom-House  and  Post-Office,  the  finest  abode  of  the 
mail  service  in  the  country,  apart  from  the  general  oiflce 
at  Washington,  situated  on  Third  and  Olive  streets. 

Outside  of  the  city  one  will  wish  to  see  the  curious  In- 
dian mounds  for  which  Saint  Louis  is  famous,  being  some 
times  called  therefrom,  "  the  Mound  City."  These  relics 
of  barbarism  are,  alas !  fast  disappearing,  to  the  dismay 
of  the  antiquarian  and  the  tourist,  as  the  city  pushes  its 
new  civilization  more  and  more  into  the  open  country 
about  it.  A  few  of  them,  however,  still  remain  near  the 
city,  or  within  it ;  we  may  call  attention  particularly  to  one, 
mentioned  in  Dana's  Hew  American  Cyclopmdia,  (to  which, 
indeed,  we  must  refer  our  reader  for  a  very  interesting  and 
instructive  essay,  [American  Antiquities,]  on  these  de- 
fensive or  sacred  tumuli,)  on  the  plain  of  Cahokia  in  Illinois, 
opposite  Saint  Louis.  This  is  700  feet  long  by  500  broad 
at  base,  and  is  90  feet  high,  covering  upward  of  8  acres  of 
ground,  and  having  20,000,000  cubic  feet  of  contents. 

The  great  flower-gardens  of  Mr.  Shaw,  (we  may  be  par- 
doned for  refreshing  the  reader's  memory  by  alluding  to 
the  lawsuit  against  this  gentleman,  which  Miss  Effie  Car- 
stang  brought  and  lost  some  years  ago,)  toward  Caronde- 
let  village,  southward,  and  the  United  States  fortifications 
by  the  river  at  that  point,  are  also  places  of  much  interest 
to  visit.    Horse-cars  run  to  the  Gardens. 

But  the  great  glory  of  Saint  Louis — that  which  the 
visitor  will  nolens  wlens  see  first  and  last — is  the  Mississip- 
pi River.  It  is  not  within  our  province  here  to  describe 
that  mighty  stream,  excepting  as  it  is  related  to  Saint 
Louis.  They  who  approach  by  steamboat  will  have  pre- 
viously become  somewhat  familiar  with  the  swiftly-flow- 


.  'ji 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


115 


ing,  muddy  waters,  the  flat-bottomed  boats,  which  seem 
to  be  endowed  with  almost  human  nervous  constitution, 
BO  delicately  are  they  strung  and  so  often  do  they  commit 
Buicide,  the  lofty,  ornamented,  black  smoke-pipes,  which 
are  almost  an  institution  and  a  sight  by  themselves,  and 
last,  but  not  least,  the  motley  throngs  who  gather  at  the 
levees  and  fill  the  saloons.  But  let  us  suppose  an  arrival 
by  land.  Coming  from  the  East,  the  tourist  crosses  the 
IMississippi  from  whatever  point  of  Illinois  Town  his  par- 
ticular railway  may  deposit  him,  on  a  ferry-boat  so  exceed- 
ingly primitive  that  he  can  hardly  credit  his  senses. 
Steam,  to  be  sure  ;  but  he  walks  or  rides  upon  the  vessel 
direct  from  a  muddy  shore,  from  no  dock  or  pier  to  speak 
of,  and  lands  again  at  the  Saint  Louis  levee  in  the  same 
singular  manner.  He  will  remember  the  boast  of  the 
Western  captain,  who  "  wouldn't  think  of  havin*  a  boat 
that  couldn't  run  on  the  sweat  of  a  water-pitcher,"  with 
astonishment  that  it  was,  after  all,  so  nearly  "  founded  on 
fact."  The  levee  is  a  sloping,  muddy  bank,  lined  on  the 
one  hand  with  most  ancient-looking  warehouses,  and 
washed — rather  cut  away — by  the  rushiiig  river.  Of  this 
hostility  of  the  river  we  shall  see  more,  presently,  at 
Alton.  Along  the  edge,  close  up  to  the  muddy  shore, 
come  the  light  draught  steamboats  in  such  multitude 
that,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  follow  the  levee  up  or  down, 
there  is  one  continuous  line  of  them  with  their  singular 
high  smoke-pipes.  When  these  vessels  are  on  their  way, 
the  smoke  of  the  bituminous  coal  used  in  the  West  rolls 
up  with  a  black  solidity  of  volume  that  gives  a  very  pic- 
turesque effect  to  the  scene.  . 

A  great  annoyance  to  temperate  travelers,  at  Saint  Louis, 
as  along  the  whole  line  of  the  Mississippi  below  the  Yel- 
lowstone, 2000  miles  up  the  Missouri  branch  from  Saint 


It      :! 


•rltl 


if)*'M 


116 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


Louis,  is  the  drinking-water.  The  waters  of  the  river  are 
sweet  and  delicious  to  the  taste,  and  those  accustomed  to 
them  consider  the  imposition  of  any  other  water  a  depri- 
vation. But  the  Yellowstone  River  (see  below,  in  sketch 
of  Alton,  etc.)  brings  down  to  the  Missouri,  and  so  to  the 
main  stream,  below  Alton,  a  yellow  mud,  which  renders 
the  waters  here  exceedingly  unpromising  to  the  eye,  and 
for  a  while,  to  the  taste.  It  is  of  some  service,  however, 
in  destroying  the  native  taste  of  the  Mississippi  itself  at 
this  point.  When  strangers  are  first  subjected  to  the  ne- 
cessity of  drinking  the  Mississippi  water — it  being  pumped 
up  to  a  reservoir  behind  the  city,  filtered  somewhat,  and 
supplied  for  use — ^they,  not  singularly,  decline  a  beverage 
which  appears  to  be  full  of  dirt,  to  taste  of  mud,  and  final- 
ly to  have  no  effect  whatever  towards  quenching  thirst ; 
and  to  some  it  is  productive  of  sickness.  A  week's  famili- 
arity with  it,  however,  will  make  it  as  delightful  as  a  cer- 
tain sovereign  syrup  is  said  to  be  to  children. 


\:. 


\m 


'Wi 


■|,;i 


THE  MEETING  OF  THE  WATERS  AT  ALTON. 

Since  we  have  alluded  to  the  savage  propensities  of 
the  Father  of  Waters,  let  us  ascend  to  the  place  where 
meet  the  two  great  branches.  Here  we  think  we  may 
offer  the  tourist  the  grandest  single  view  of  river  sce- 
nery to  be  found  in  all  the  country.  We  may  take  some 
one  of  the  numerous  smaller  steamboats  plying  between 
Saint  Louis  and  Alton,  and  sail  20  miles  against  the 
current  to  that  town.  Our  own  visit  was  in  the  after- 
noon of  a  beautiful  May  day.  We  reached  the  point 
where  the  two  streams  meet  and  seek  to  mingle,  just  as 
the  setting  sun,  surrounded  but  not  hidden  by  clouds 
of  sombre  face  and  silver  lining,  was  casting  his  last 
golden  rays  upon  the  water.    It  may  not  be  the  good  fox- 


LAKES,   EIVERS, 


AND  MOUNTAINS. 


117 


river  are 
tomed  to 
r  a  depri- 
n  sketcli 
30  to  tlie 
1  renders 
eye,  and 
however, 
i  itself  at 
to  the  ne- 
^  pumped 
what,  and 
,  beverage 
and  final- 
ng  thirst ; 
ik's  famili- 
il  as  a  cer- 


ON. 

insities  of 
ace  where 
k  we  may 
river  sce- 
ake  some 
between 
ainst  the 
the  after- 
the  point 
;le,  just  as 
ly  clouds 
his  last 
good  for- 


tune of  every  one  to  enjoy  so  fine  a  phase  of  the  sunlight ; 
but  to  stand  upon  the  deck  of  your  steamer,  looking  upon 
the  one  side  at  the  placid  Mississippi,  clear  and  limpid, 
flowing  beautifully  toward  the  sea ;  and  on  the  other  at 
the  foaming  Missouri,  rushing  down  upon  the  channel  of 
its  fellow  with  a  muddy,  furious  torrent  that  sweeps  all 
before  it,  and  destroys  forever  all  traces  of  that  gentle 
stream ;  this  is  delight  unbounded,  and  may  be  shared 
by  all  who  journey  over  the  Mississippi  waters.  Years 
ago,  there  stood  upon  the  eastern  bank,  just  at  the  con- 
fluence, the  village  of  Chippewa,  a  place  of  some  little 
population  and  business  ;  but  the  tremendous  vehemence 
with  which  the  Missouri  cast  itself  upon  the  clayey 
bank  proved  too  much  for  it  to  stand,  and  the  land  has 
gone  down  the  river  to  seek  the  ocean,  along  with  the 
other  accretions  from  the  north,  and  also  the  south.  All 
along  the  line  of  our  short  sail  we  may  behold  the  same  pro- 
cess almost  actually  going  on  before  us.  The  banks,  soft 
and  yielding,  are  losing  on  the  one  side,  (and  increasing 
on  the  other  in  a  less  proportion,)  as  the  rapid  current, 
knife-like,  cuts  off"  great  slices,  carrying  down  trees,  fences, 
any  thing  that  unwarily  remains  to  withstand  such  a  foe. 
It  is  a  most  singular  and  a  most  impressive  sight.  We 
do  not  wonder  that  the  Indians  selected  for  their  title  of 
the  river  a  name,  which,  while  it  robs  us  of  any  solemnity 
with  which  tlie  scene  might  inspire  us,  certainly  conveys 
to  the  mind  the  character  of  the  work  done,  and  the  re- 
sult— the  Missouri  is  the  "  mud  river." 

Alton  is  finely  situated  upon  the  eastern  bank  of  the 
Mississippi,  nearly  3  miles  above  the  actual  meeting  of 
the  waters.  Apart  from  what  political  interest  attaches 
to  the  town  as  the  home  and  grave  of  Lovejoy,  the  Aboli- 
tionist martyr  before  the  war,  we  hardly  need  to  mention 


118 


I 


LAKES,   RIVERS, 


AND  MOUNTAINS. 


any  tiling.  The  most  noticeable  object  is  the  high,  hard 
limestone  bluff,  upon  which  part  of  the  city  stands.  If,  as 
has  been  suggested,  the  powers  that  bo  should  cut  away 
some  200  acres  of  the  point  of  land  between  Alton  and 
the  point  where  the  Missouri  empties,  (according  to  the 
popular  phraseology — it  is  really  the  Mississippi  that  emp- 
ties, as  the  visitor  hero  will  see  at  once,)  the  Missouri 
would  hurl  its  raging  torrent  in  vain  against  that  magni- 
ficent bluff,  and  would  be  a  little  weakened  in  its  on- 
slaughts on  the  shores  below.  Perhaps  this  will  be  done 
some  time.  The  Yankee  nation  is  fond  of  conquering 
nature,  and  this  is  certainly  a  very  inviting  point  of  at- 
tack. 

THE  MISSOURI  IRON  REGION. 

Another  trip  from  Saint  Louis,  in  the  opposite  direction, 
takes  us  from  the  active  to  the  silent  forces  of  nature,  in 
the  famous  Iron  Region  of  the  State  of  Missouri.  In  the 
East,  a  visitor  would  stare  amazed  at  his  host  who  should 
invite  him  to  an  excursion  of  80  miles  ;  but  in  the  West, 
distance  is  not  counted  among  the  trials  of  life,  and  a  trip 
to  Pilot  Knob  and  its  neighbors,  from  Saint  Louis,  is 
esteemed  one  of  the  greatest  pleasures  to  which  a  cour- 
teous citizen  can  treat  his  guest. 

The  iron  mountains  of  Missouri,  wonderful  beyond  cre- 
dibility were  they  not  on  a  line  of  familiar  travel,  are 
situated  at  the  south-western  extremity  of  the  Saint  Louis 
and  Iron  Mountain  Railway,  87  miles  from  the  city. 
There  are  three  of  great  importance  and  note :  the  Iron 
Mountain,  the  Pilot  Knob,  and  the  Shepherd  Mountain, 
standing  near  together,  and  close  by  the  site  of  Fort  Pilot 
Knob,  where  the  rebel  Price,  during  the  late  war  was  ig- 
nominiously  defeated.  The  railway  hither  passes  a  great 
number  of  block-houses,  also  erected  for  Union  defense 


LAKES,    KIVERS,    AND    MOUNTAINS, 


119 


Th,  liard 
i.    If,  as 
;ut  away 
Iton  and 
g  to  the 
liat  eiup- 
Missouri 
tt  magni- 
n  its  on- 
[  be  done 
mquering 
)iiit  of  at- 


5  direction, 
nature,  in 
i.    In  tlie 
'lio  should 
the  West, 
and  a  trip 
Louis,  is 
Lch  a  cour- 


durinff  the  war.  There  is  also  a  very  superior  view  af- 
forded of  the  Mississippi  River  for  some  15  miles  beyond 
Carondelet,  as  the  railway  follows  the  line  of  the  river  for 
that  distance  on  tho  way  of  the  iron  region. 

The  Iron  Mountain  par  excellence  is  probably  a  solid 
mass  of  iron,  288  feet  above  the  surrounding  valleys,  co- 
vering an  area  of  500  acres.  Upon  the  surface  is,  where 
not  interrupted  by  the  works,  a  forest  of  oak-trees,  Thriving 
in  a  soil  which  is  wholly  composed  of  fragmentd  of  peroxide 
of  iron,  comminuted  and  coarse-mixed  together.  Excava- 
tion of  the  ore  of  this  mountain  was  commenced  in  1845, 
on  the  west  side  of  Little  Iron  Mountain,  a  i^rolongation 
of  the  larger  hill.  There  is  an  artesian  well  at  the  moun- 
tain. It  may  safely  be  said  that  the  quantity  of  iron 
upon  this  mountain  that  may  be  quarried,  without  need 
of  mining,  is  inexhaustible. 

The  Pilot  Knob  will  interest  a  visitor  more  than  the 
other,  not  merely  because  its  iron  is  purer  and  more  valu- 
able, but  because  of  the  appearance  of  the  summit,  giv- 
ing name  to  the  mountain.  It  is  G  miles  south  of  Iron 
Mountain,  and  is  an  isolated  conical  peak,  co^-ering  an 
area  of  360  acres,  and  rising  very  steeply  to  the  height  of 
500  feet  above  its  base,  which  is  537  feet  above  the  rail- 
way level  at  Saint  Louis.  Towards  the  top  the  rock  be- 
comes ferruginous,  and  ledges  and  loose  blocks  of  great 
size  of  pure  iron  ore  and  mixed  ore  and  rock  cover  the 
surface.  The  top  is  a  rocky  peak,  60  feet  high,  forming  a 
craggy  knob,  from  which  the  mountain  is  named. 

A  third  iron  supply  is  found  on  Shepherd  Mountain,  a 
little  over  a  mile  south-west  from  the  Knob.  This  is  600 
feet  high,  and  covers  an  area  of  800  acres.  The  iron  ore  is 
magnetic  and  specular,  and  is  found  in  great  imrity  upon 
the  mountain.    The  tourist  may  add  to  his  entertainment 


120 


LAKIW,    lUVERS,    AND    MOUNTAINS. 


m! 


in  lookinpf  upon  tlicso  great  natural  wonders  by  picturing 
to  liimself  tlioir  inexliaustibility,  and  the  unlimited  sup- 
I)lies  from  them,  wliicli  will  occupy  the  blaat-furnaces 
which  ghall,  us  the  West  grows,  begin  to  spring  up  in  the 
nearest  coal-districts. 

UP  THE  MISSISSIPPI   TO  SAINT  PAUL. 

Saint  Paul  is  best  known  as  a  healthful  resort  for  con- 
sumj^tives.  All  the  year  round  it  is  thronged  with  health- 
seekers.  It  is  now  universally  conceded  that  for  this  class 
of  unfortunates,  no  better  resort  can  be  found  the  world 
over.  Th'^  dry  and  crystalline  air  has  a  wonderfully  re- 
storative etfect  upon  those  whose  lungs  are  in  any  way 
diseased.  Even  the  cold  winter  air  does  not  prove  injuri 
ous  to  invalids.  The  State  of  Minnesota  is  proved  by  sta 
tistics  to  be  the  healthiest  in  the  Union,  and  there  is  not 
more  than  one  locality  on  the  face  of  the  earth  where  the 
death  rate  lo  so  small.  But  we  will  refer  readers,  for  more 
particulars  upon  this  part  of  the  sulvject,  to  the  Guide  to 
tlie  Koroh-  Wcfn,  a  new  edition  of  which  has  just  been  issued. 
We  purpose  in  this  article  to  speak  of  Minnesota  as  a  re- 
sort for  the  pleasure  tourist. 

When  tiie  tourist  goes  to  Minnesota,  he  never  fails  to 
visit  Saint  Paul.  This  is  the  largest  and  most  beautiful 
city  in  the  State ;  is  at  tli«  head  of  navigation  upon  the 
Mississippi,  and  is  distant  three  days  from  New- York,  or 
a  little  less  by  the  all  rail  'oute. 

The  best  route  for  the  summer  pleasure  tourist  is  by  rail 
to  La  Crosse,  on  tho  Mississippi,  by  way  of  the  Chicago 
and  North-western,  and  Milwaukee  and  La  Crosse  roads, 
and  thence  by  steamboat,  ISO  miles  up  the  river  tp  Saint 
Paul.  If  it  is  desired  to  visit  the  beautiful  city  of  Madison, 
Wisconsin,  so  famed  fci  it^s  natural  beauty,  wliicli  is  de- 


s. 


LAKES,    RIVERS,    AND   MOUXTAIXS. 


121 


>y  picturing 
imitcd  Bup- 
ast-funiaces 
\g  up  in  the 


A.UL. 

Bort  for  con- 
witli  liealtli- 
for  tins  class 
id  tlio  world 
)nderfully  re- 
in any  way 
prove  injurl 
trovod  by  sta 
d  there  is  not 
•th  where  the 
ers,  for  more 
the  Guide  to 
It  been  issued, 
esota  as  a  re- 


levcr  fails  to 
lost  beautiful 
[ion  upon  the 
Tew-York,  or    ^ 

[irist  is  by  rail 
the  Chicago 
I  Crosse  roads, 
river  tp  Saint 
|;y  of  Madison, 
wliich  is  de- 


I 

■3' 


scribed  elsewhere  in  this  volume,  the  tourist  will  take  the 
Prairie  Da  Chit'U  road  at  Watortown,  and  strike  the  Mis- 
sissippi at  a  point  further  down  than  by  the  other  route. 
The  faro  from  Now- York,  by  either  route,  is  $43.  The 
tourist  who  vis^l^s  Saint  Louis  and  the  magnificent  scenery 
at  its  meeting  the  Missouri,  (see  Saint  Louis  and  Vicini- 
ty,) may  combine  that  pleasure  and  this  by  taking  steamer 
between  Saint  Louis  or  Alton  and  La  Crosse.  This  plan 
win  secure  to  the  tourist  the  whole  "  upper  river,"  and 
just  glimpse  enough  of  the  swollen  flood  below  the  meet- 
ing of  the  two  great  branches,  to  afford  some  conception 
of  the  whole  "  lower  river." 

^  We  can  not  describe  too  enthusiastically  the  superb  sail 
up  the  upper  Mississippi.  The  scenery  is  very  like  that  of 
the  Hudson,  but  to  our  mind  much  finer.  Thackeray 
called  it  the  finest  he  had  ever  seen.  After  leaving  the 
lively  city  of  Winona,  the  boat  glides  into  the  waters  of 
Lake  Pepin,  the  bluffs  about  which  are  very  grand.  The 
stopping-places  are  Fountain  City,  Wabasha,  Reed's  Land- 
ing, Lake  City,  Prescott,  Red  Wing,  and  Hastings.  Eight 
miles  from  Lake  City,  and  opposite  Fontunac,  is  the  lively 
little  village  of  Maiden  Rock.  A  fine  little  steamer  plies 
regularly  between  these  places,  affording  visitors  a  fine 
opportunity  to  view  the  scenery  of  the  lake,  and  especially 
the  romantic  bluff  known  as  Maiden's  Rock.  At  Prescott 
you  can  change  to  the  boat  that  goes  50  miles  up  the  beau- 
tiful Saint  Croix,  a  detour  which  we  recommend  to  visitors. 
The  scenery  up  the  Saint  Croix  is  very  beautiful.  Stillwater 
is  the  largest  place  upon  the  river. 

On  reaching  Saint  Paul,  you  will  find  pleasant  quarters  at 
the  International  Hotel,  from  which  point  you  can  enjoy 
delightful  drives  to  Fort  Snelling  and  the  Falls  of  Minne: 
haha,  to  Lake  Como  and  Minneapolis,  and  to  White  Bear 


'"\A 


18 


I  Mfiiiii 


\ 


122 


LAKES,    RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


Lake.  The  luttor  is  a  superb  spot  for  fisliingf,  and  has  a 
sportsman's  hotel.  The  tourist  will  find  a  few  days  at 
Minneap'olis  (6  miles  above  Saint  Paul)  enjoyable.  From 
here  there  arc  tri-weekly  stages  to  Lake  Minnetonka,  a 
splendid  lake,  honored  with  a  pretty  steamer,  and  having 
two  hotels. 

Cars  run  from  Saint  Paul  to  Saint  Cloud,  on  the  line  of 
which  are  Big  Lake  and  Clear  Lake,  great  lakea  for  fisher- 
men. The  latter  has  a  summer  hotel.  There  is  a  tri-weekly 
line  of  stages  from  Saint  Cloud  to  Fort  Abercrombie,  on  the 
Red  River.  The  fare  is  $16.  There  is  a  daily  stage  line  from 
Saint  Cloud  to  Crow  Wing,  the  home  of  the  famous  Indian 
chief,  "  Hole-in-the-day."  From  Crow  Wing  you  can  go  by 
canoe  to  Vermilion  Lake,  or  -/.o  Lake  Superior.  From  Saint 
Paul  there  is  a  tri-weekly  line  of  stages  to  Lake  Superior. 
Fare,  $15. 

For  more  detailed  information  about  Minnesota  and  Da 
cotah,  we  refer  the  tourist  to  the  Invalid's  and  Tourisfs 
Guide  to  the  North-West y  compiled  by  the  editor  of  this 
volume,  and  containing  a  complete  map  of  the  North-west- 
ern country. 

MADISON-ON  THE-LAKES-A  WISCONSIN  BTJMMEE 

BE30RT. 

Not  only  as  a  thriving  State  capital,  but  as  a  delightful 
place  of  summer  resort,  Madison  deserves  the  attention 
of  the  tourist  eager  to  find  some  pleasant  novelty  off  the 
beaten  traek.  The  place  is  easily  accessible  by  railway  in 
six  hours  from  Chicago. 

Every  body  who  has  been  here  from  the  East  is  loud  in 
praises  of  this  charming  place.  It  lies  on  an  undulating 
isthmus  between  two  large  lakes,  and  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  three  others.    The  highest  elevation  is  crowned 


LAKES,   RIVERS,    AND   MOUNTAINS.  123 


,  and  has  a 
BW  doys  at 
ble.  From 
nnetonka,  a 
and  having 

1  the  line  of 
:e3  for  fisher- 
)  a  tri-weekly 
jnibie,  on  the 
age  line  from 
imons  Indian 
ovL  can  go  "by 
From  Saint 
ike  Superior. 

ssota  and  Da 
,nd  Tourisfs 
tditor  of  this 
North-wesl- 


with  the  Capitol  building,  a  structure  in  the  Corinthian 
style,  only  needing  the  contemplated  dome  to  be  the  finest 
State  capital  in  the  West.  From  the  grounds  that  sur- 
round it  the  streets  radiate  down  to  the  lakes,  and  a  pecu- 
liarly insular  effect  is  produced  from  the  fact  that  almost 
every  street  terminates  in  a  water  front.  The  city  is  oth- 
erwise well  built,  many  of  the  private  residences  evincing 
the  cultivated  taste  of  their  proprietors.  There  is  the 
usual  supply  of  churches  of  the  leading  denominations. 
Grace  Church  (Episcopal)  is  the  finest,  and  is  a- very  credi- 
table Gothic  building,  of  light-colored  stone.  The  interior 
is  well  finished,  and  the  body  of  the  church  is  patiently 
vraiting  for  a  spi/e,  and  seems,  without  it,  as  incomplete  as 
a  sturdy,  prosperous  young  man  without  a  blushing  bride. 
The  Catholics  have  a  church  here  also,  spire-less,  but  oth- 
erwise a  fine  edifice.  The  City  Hall  and  the  University 
are  other  buildings,  so  far  ahead  of  such  structures  as 
there  are  usually  found  in  towns  of  the  size  of  Madison, 
that  they  are  worthy  of  special  praise. 


BTJMMEE 

a  delightful 
he  attention 
Ivelty  off  the 
]y  railway  in 

ist  is  loud  in 
undulating 
immediate 
In  is  crowned 


1 


THE  LAKES. 

The  large  Lake  Mendota,  or  Fourth  Lake,  as  it  is  called, 
is  some  15  miles  in  circumference,  and  is  navigated  by 
a  little  mite  of  a  steamboat,  called  the  City  of  Madison, 
which,  at  i)resent,  goes  at  the  rate  pf  a  mile  an  hour,  but 
expects  soon  to  indulge  in  the  luxury  of  new  machinery, 
and  of  consequent  increased  speed.  The  sail  is  a  pleasant 
one,  the  chief  objective  point  being  the  State  Lunatic  Asy- 
lum, a  huge  structure  built  on  a  promontory  extending 
into  the  lake.  People  who  have  faith  in  fish,  say  that 
large  pickerel  abound  in  the  waters.  We  can  vouch  for 
perch  actually  as  large  as  your  little  finger.    The  tradi- 


i: 

\  <, 

'i 

h\ 

[ 

I; 

i 

1' 

\           'i 

i  ■ 

1         M'! 

i 

!' 

!t  1 

•l! 


124 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


tional  one  big  fish,  weighing  from  eight  to  fifteen  pounds, 
exists  here  as  elsewhere,  and  has  been  frequently  caught 
— ^in  piscine  legendary  lore. 

The  first  and  second  lakes  are  some  distance  from  the 
city.  Nearer  by  is  Dead  Lake,  a  small  sheet  of  water 
said  to  be  gradually  drying  up.  The  third  lake  is  the 
most  beautiful  of  all,  and  from  its  surface  the  finest  view 
of  the  city  is  obtained,  making  a  panorama  of  striking 
beauty.  A  lively  little  steamboat,  with  an  Indian  name 
of  forty-two  syllables,  plies  across  this  lake  to  the  Lake 
House. 

THE  HOTELS. 

The  Lake  House  is  a  spacious,  commodious  building, 
kept  in  first-rate  style  and  at  absurdly  low  rates  of 
charge,  by  a  well-known  New-Yorker,  Mr.  Frodsham,  for- 
merly of  the  Dusseldorf  Gallery,  and  a  magnate  in  art  cir- 
cles. Like  Charles  V.,  he  has  retired  to  this  convent — a 
mighty  comfortable  one,  by  the  way — and  amid  its  home- 
like walls,  decorated  with  rare  engravings  and  paintings 
that  attest  the  critical  taste  of  the  proprietor,  he  dispenses 
goodly  cheer  to  those  who  come  to  him  .as  boarders  and 
leave  him  as  friends.  In  home-feelingness  and  really  re- 
fined luxury,  this  hotel  is  only  surpassed  by  Mr.  Moore's 
well-known  hostelry  at  Trenton  Falls.  The  visitors  are 
chiefly  from  Saint  Louis. 

In  the  village  there  is  the  Vilas  House,  a  fairly  comfort- 
able place.  Its  best  feature  is  the  superb  view  from  the 
cupola,  embracing  the  entire  town,  the  lakes,  and  the  sur- 
rounding country.  Other  hotels  in  the  city  are  neat  and 
inviting,  so  that  Madison  is  more  really  attractive  than 
many  better  known  places. 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND  MOUNTAINS. 


125 


Bn  pounds, 
tly  caught 

B  from  tlie 
t  of  water 
lake  is  the 
finest  view 
of  striking 
dian  name 
0  the  Lake 


IS  building, 
w  rates  of 
Ddsham,  for- 
te in  art  cir- 
convent — a 
d  its  home- 
paintings 
e  dispenses 
•arders  and 
really  re- 
>Ir.  Moore's 
Ivisitors  are 


THE  C.  PITOL. 

The  Madisonians  are  proud  of  their  Capitol.  The 
Senate  and  Assembly  rooms  are  models  in  every  way, 
and  the  State  authorities  of  Illinois  will  find  it  difficult  to 
surpass  them  in  the  superb  new  structure  they  contem- 
plate building  at  Springfield.  The  Wisconsin  Historical 
Society  has  a  good  collection  of  local  curiosities  and  relics 
in  a  wing  of  the  Capitol ;  and  the  captured  rebel  flags, 
which  are  hung  on  inner  walls,  show  that  the  Wisconsin 
soldiers  were  busy  during  the  war.  The  Governor  of  the 
State,  Mr.  Fairchild,  is  a  veteran  who  lost  an  arm  at  Get- 
tysburg. 

THE  NEW-YORK  CENTRAL  RAILWAY. 

Setting  aside  the  questions  of  monopoly,  centralized 
power,  etc.,  it  certainly  was  a  great  benefit  to  the  travel- 
ing public  when,  in  1853,  one  continuous  railway  from 
Albany  and  Troy  to  the  western  border  of  the  State  of 
New- York  was  formed.  It  is  quite  within  the  memory  of 
persons  of  middle  age,  when  journeys  through  the  length 
o^  the  Empire  State  were  necessarily  made  by  "  packet" — 
Fi.  species  of  canal-boat — or  by  stage.  I.«ater  came  the 
separate  railways,  out  of  which,  14  in  number,  the  New- 
York  Central  Railway  Company  was  formed  in  1853. 
The  first  link  in  this  chain  of  railways  was  the  road  from 
Albany  to  Schenectady,  completed  in  1831.  This  was  fol- 
lowed by  the  construction  of  a  road  from  Schenectady  to 
Utica,  in  1835.  In  1839,  the  work  was  pushed  to  the  salt- 
marshes  of  Syracuse.  Antecedent  to  this,  in  1836,  a  short 
line  had  been  constructed  from  Syracuse  to  Auburn.  This 
was  then  continued  to  Rochester,  by  way  of  Canandaigua, 
in  1840,  making  a  continuous  line  of  233  miles.  Only  68 
miles  then  remained  to  complete  the  railway  to  Buffalo. 


f 


126 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


!  r 


Twelve  years,  however,  passed  away  before  it  was  com- 
pleted, and  not  till  1852  was  the  entire  line  open  to  travel. 
The  Hudson  River  Rail  way  having  been  completed  during 
the  previous  year,  the  whole  distance  from  New- York  City 
to  the  shores  of  Lake  Erie  was  then  traversed  by  continu- 
ous railway. 

Fares. — The  fare  on  the  Central  Railway  is  restricted 
by  State  law  to  2  cents  per  mile — a  regulation  which  the 
Company  have  repeatedly,  but  in  vain,  endeavored  to  have 
repealed.  The  traveler,  therefore,  may  purchase  his  ticket 
between  every  two  stations  at  almost  the  same  total  cost 
•with  a  through  ticket,  save  in  times  of  ruinous  competi- 
tion between  this  and  the  Erie  road*  There  are  no  com- 
mutation or  excursion  tickets  to  be  had  on  the  Central 
Railway.  The  number  of  miles  multiplied  by  2,  with  1 
or  2  cents  added  for  tax,  will  invariably  give  the  fare  be- 
tween any  two  points  between  the  eastern  and  western 
boundaries  of  the  State,  as  well  as,  for  the  most  part,  be- 
tween New- York  City  and  Albany. 

That  portion  of  this  great  route  with  which  at  present 
we  have  to  do,  has  two  termini  at  the  eastern  end,  one  at 
Albany  and  the  other  at  Troy,  which  meet,  after  17  miles, 
at  Schenectady.  It  then  continues  in  one  line  to  Syracuse, 
148  miles  from  Albany,  when  it  is  again  a  double  route  for 
the  remainder  of  the  way  ;  the  lower  line,  ma  Auburn  and 
Canandaigua,  known  as  the  "  Auburn"  or  "  Old  Road,"  be- 
ing "  looped  up"  to  the  other  at  Rochester,  about  midway 
between  Syracuse  and  Buffalo.  The  upper  route  is  called 
the  "Direct  Road,"  with  a  justness  which  the  traveler  by 
the  "  Old  "  way  will  cheerfully  accede.  The  Erie  Canal 
traverses  the  entire  State  nearly  on  the  same  line  with  the 
Central,  and  the  Mohawk  River  is  parallel  nearly  as  far  as 
Rome,  110  miles  from  Albany.     The  portion  of  country 


s. 


it  was  com- 
;n  to  travel, 
eted  during 
kV-York  City 
by  continu- 

is  restricted 
I  which  the 
>red  to  have 
se  his  ticket 
e  total  cost 
us  competi- 
are  no  com- 
the  Central 
)y  2,  with  1 
:lie  fare  be- 
md  western 
)st  part,  be- 

1  at  present 

end,  one  at 

er  17  miles, 

o  Syracuse, 

lie  route  for 

Luburn  and 

Road,"  be- 

ut  midway 

ite  is  called 

raveler  by 

Erie  Canal 

10  with  the 

iy  as  far  as 

of  country 


dMiMk.^ 


iif.f.i'ii*.. 


M 


\  m. 


^i     M    Mix 


I      'I 


LAKES,   RIVERS,  AND  MOUNTAINS.  127 


through  which  the  railway  passes  possesses,  moreover, 
much  historical  interest.  The  "  Fivo  Nations ''  once  occu- 
pied  most  of  the  country  along  the  route  ;  and  many  lo- 
calities visible  from  the  car-windows  were  the  scenes  of 
savaffe  warfare  and  fierce  conflicts  during  thr  Revolution. 

ATHENS  ROAD. 

The  new  branch  of  the  Central,  which  is  sometimes 
termed  "the  Athens  Cut-off,"  is  a  route  of  some  interest  to 
the  tourist.  It  commences  at  Athens,  in  Greene  county, 
opposite  Hudson,  on  the  Hudson  River,  and  runs  in  a  di- 
rection north  by  west  to  Schenectady,  saving  a  very  little 
time  and  distance. 

Athens  is  at  present  a  small  and  unimportant  village  of 
2000  inhabitants.  A  good  deal  of  limestone  is  quarried 
near  here,  and  three  small  lakes  in  the  western  part  of  the 
township  give  a  pleasant  variety  to  the  interior,, 

Coxsackie,  6  miles  from  Athens,  is  an  old  Dutch  vil- 
lage, settled  about  1652. 

Coeymans,  14  miles,  boasts  two  falls,  two  caves,  several 
mineral  springs,  a  lake,  a  subterranean  river,  and  a  fossil 
elephant.  The  falls  are  in  the  village  itself,  and  amount 
to  75  feet  in  all.  Lawson's  Lake  is  in  the  north-western 
part  of  the  township.  The  caves  belong  to  that  large 
class  of  limestone  ledges  and  hollows  which  characterize 
the  -eastern  part  (see  Caves  op  Schoharie)  of  the  State. 
The  larger  of  these  two  extends  660  feet  into  a  perpendi- 
cular ledge.  The  Feuri-Spruyt  Kill,  doubtless  frightened  at 
so  awful  a  cognomen,  dives  beneath  its  bed  for  a  half-mile. 
The  springs  are  impregnated  with  sulphate  of  magnesia. 
The  elephant  occurred  4  miles  west  of  the  river,  on  Mr. 
Shears's  farm.  The  other  stations,  as  far  as  the  crossing 
of  the  Albany  and  Susn[uehanna  Railway — namely,  Beth- 
lehem, Feurabush,  and  New-Scotland — have  their  glory  in 


128 


LAKES,   KIVERS,   AND  MOUNTAINS. 


' 


the  same  i^henomena.  Guilderland  Centre  and  Central 
Junction  are  not  important  stations,  and  beyond  the  latter 
3  miles  is  Schenectady. 

In  the  article  entitled  Along  the  Hudson  we  have  al- 
ready alluded  to  Albany  and  Troy  with  as  much  particu- 
larity, perhaps,  as  the  tourist  will  desire.  If  he  has  come 
from  the  east  or  north  to  begin  his  journey  with  us,  he  has 
probably  remained  over  night  at  the  Delavan  House,  Stan- 
wix  Hall,  Congress  Hall,  or  the  American,  in  Albany,  or 
the  Troy  House,  in  Troy ;  if  from  the  south,  he  has,  per- 
haps, been  enjoying  the  comforts  of  the  most  elegant 
steamboats  on  the  face  of  the  globe.  Terms  at  the  Dela- 
van and  Congress,  $4.50  per  day ;  at  Stanwix  Hall,  (most 
convenient  for  one  in  haste,)  $3.50 ;  the  American,  $2.50 
or  $3  per  day. 

Schenectady,  17  miles  from  Albany,  23  from  Troy,  is  the 
point  at  which  the  railways  from  Albany  and  Troy  meet, 
and  the  Saratoga  route  diverges.  Schenectady  is  upon 
the  right  bank  of  the  Mohawk  River.  It  is  one  of  the 
oldest  towns  in  the  State,  and  is  distinguished  as  the  seat 
of  Union  College,  founded  in  1795.  The  buildings  are  dis- 
cernible from  the  right-hand  windows  going  west.  The 
council-grounds  of  the  Mohawks  once  formed  the  site  of 
the  present  town.  A  trading-post  was  established  by  the 
Dutch  as  early  as  1620.  A  massacre  of  the  inhabitants  by 
the  French  and  Indians  occurred  here  in  1690.  In  1795, 
the  town  was  made  the  headquarters  of  the  Western  Navi- 
gatioij  Company,  organized  to  navigate  the  Mohawk  River 
to  Oneida  Lake.  Schenectady  was  incorporated  as  a  city 
in  1798. 

Leaving  Schenectady,  the  road  crosses  the  Mohawk 
River  and  the  Erie  Canal,  upon  a  bridge  nearly  1000  feet 
in  length. 


3.    i.' 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND  MOUNTAINS. 


129 


Central 
le  latter 


have  al- 
particu- 
as  come 
i,  lie  has 
se,  Stan- 
bany,  or 
las,  per- 
elegant 
[le  Dela- 
11,  (most 
n,  $2.50 

>y,  is  the 

:>y  meet, 

is  upon 

e  of  the 

he  seat 

are  dis- 

it.    The 

site  of 

by  the 

;ants  by 

n  1795, 

n  Navi- 

k  River 

8  a  city 

[ohawk 
)00  feet 


At  Hoffman's,  2G  miles,  (from  Albany,)  a  ferry  was  es- 
tablished in  1790  by  Hermanns  Vedder,  and  was  called 
Vedder's  Ferry  until  1835  ;  it  was  then  purchased  by  John 
Hoffman,  whoso  name  it  has  since  borne. 

Tribcs's  Hill,  39  miles,  is  a  place  of  some  interest.  Its 
name  is  derived  from  the  fact  that  the  Indians  were  accus- 
tomed to  assemble  on  a  mound  here  on  important  occa- 
sions, where  they  held  their  councils  and  listened  to  the 
eloquence  of  their  chieftains.  A  suspension  bridge  crosses 
the  Mohawk  here,  and  near  Schoharie  Creek  once  stood 
Fort  Hunter.  In  1710,  several  hundred  of  the  Palatinates, 
who  had  been  previously  located  on  the  Hudson  by  the 
bounty  of  Queen  Anne,  migrated  to  this  neighborhood  ;  in 
1 780,  they  were  massacred  by  the  son  of  Sir  William  John- 
son, in  command  of  some  Indians  and  Tories. 

Johnstown,  3  miles  north  of  Fonda,  which  is  44  miles 
west  of  Albany,  was  incorporated  in  1808  ;  it  lies  on  the 
southern  border  of  Montgomery  county.  This  i)lace  was 
once  the  residence  of  the  distinguished  Sir  William  John- 
son. This  gentleman  entered  the  wilderness  as  agent  for 
his  uncle.  Sir  Peter  Warren,  who  had  an  extensive  grant 
from  Great  Britain.  He  built  a  stone  mansion  here,  sur- 
passing in  cost  and  grandeur  every  dwelling  in  the  valley 
of  the  Mohawk.  By  his  tact  he  won  the  confidence  of  the 
Indians,  assuming  their  dress  and  learning  to  speak  their 
language,  and  entering  heartily  into  all  their  wild  sports. 
He  became  agent  for  Great  Britain,  and  was  of  great  serv- 
ice in  settling  disputes  with  the  Indians.  In  1759.  at  his 
call,  2000  Indian  braves  assembled,  and  were  led  by  him 
to  the  head  of  Lake  George,  where  he  defeated  the  French 
mider  Dieskau.  For  this.  Parliament  voted  him'  £5000, 
and  the  King  conferred  a  baronetcy  upon  him.  He  died 
in  1774,  having  spent  forty  years  in  the  wilderness.    Men- 


130 


LAKES,    RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


tion  of  liim  will  bo  found  also  in  the  articles  entitled  Sa- 
ratoga and  Lake  Ciiamplain. 

Palatine  Bridge,  55  miles,  derives  its  name  from  the 
German  Palatines  who  settled  hero  in  1713,  and  from  the 
bridge  which  crosses  the  Mohawk  and  separates  it  from 
Canajoharie.  Passengers  take  the  stage  here  for  Sharon 
Springs,  a  place  of  considerable  resort  during  the  summer 
season.  (See  Mineral  Springs  of  New- York.)  The 
ride  from  Canajoharie  to  the  springs,  a  distance  of  14 
miles,  is  one  of  the  most  picturesque  and  beautiful  to  be 
found  in  this  part  of  the  country. 

Fort  Plain,  58  miles,  was  the  scene  of  one  of  the  raids  of 
the  notorious  Brandt,  in  1780 ;  when  the  women  in  the 
forts,  th'^ir  h^.^bands  being  absent,  clothed  themselves  in 
male  aitire  and  frightened  the  redskins  away  by  their 
brave  appearance. 

At  Saint  Johnsville,  G4  miles  from  Albany,  2^  to  3  hours' 
ride,  is  the  first  eating-station  on  the  road,  and  the  best  in 
the  State. 

Little  Falls,  74  miles,  is  remarkable  for  a  bold  passage 
of  the  Mohawk  River  and  Erie  rianal  through  a  wild  and 
most  picturesque  defile.  The  scenery,  embracing  the  river, 
rapids,  and  cascades,  the  locks  and  windings  of  the  canal, 
the  bridges,  and  the  glimpses  far  away  of  the  valley  of  the 
Mohawk,  are  especially  beautiful. 

Richfield  Springs,  about  13  milos  from  Little  Falls,  is 
quite  a  pleasant  resort  in  summer,  r '^ar  the  head  of  Schuy- 
ler Lake.    (See  Mineral  Springs  of  New- York.) 

Utica  is  a  large,  flourishing,  and  handsome  town  on  the 
south  side  of  the  Mohawk  River.  The  Erie  Canal  and  the 
Central  Railway  pass  through  the  centre  of  the  city.  It 
contains  several  handsome  buildings,  among  which  are 
the  City  Hall  and  State  Lunatic  Asylum.    It  is  built  upon 


LAKES,    rwIVKRS,    AXD   MOUNTAINS. 


131 


tlio  site  of  old  Fort  Schuylor,  and  lias  now  a  population  of 
25,000.  Hotels :  Bajrff'a,  at  tlio  dnpot,  and  tlio  National. 
Visitors  to  Trenton  Falls  take  the  Black  Hivor  Railway 
trains  at  this  point,  the  distance  to  the  Falls  being  about 
20  miles.  Clinton,  8  miles  south-west  of  Utica,  accessible 
by  horse-cars,  is  the  seat  of  Hamilton  College,  incorporated 
in  1843. 

The  next  station  of  prominence  is  Rome,  109  miles,  where 
diverges  the  Rome,  Watcrtown,  an(;  Oswego  Railway  to 
Lake  Ontario,  nortliward.  This  jjlace  was  originally  called 
Fort  Stanwix,  from  a  fort  erected  here  in  1758.  After  the 
conquest  of  Canada  it  fell  into  decay,  but  was  repaired  dur- 
ing the  Revolution.  In  177  7,  General  Saint  Leger  besieged 
it,  but  was  compelled  to  raise  the  siege  by  the  arrival  of 
aid.  This  battlc-nKumd  lives  only  in  history  ;  not  a  trace 
of  it  now  remains  in  Rome.  Here  was  also  a  mile  of  por- 
tage, which  kept  asunder  the  waters  of  the  Mohawk  and 
Wood  Creek,  and  interrupted  the  navigation  from  Albany 
to  the  Lakes.  The  Indians  call  it  De-o-wain-sta  —  or 
"  carrying-place  for  canoes."  Over  this  interval  all  mer- 
chandise to  and  from  the  distant  West  had  to  be  conveyed 
by  men  and  ox-teams.  Then,  by  way  of  Wood  Creek  and 
Oneida  Lake,  it  reached  Lake  Ontario. 

Verona,  117  miles,  is  a  thrivinn-  village  in  the  midst  of  a 
rich  grazing  country.  A  short  distance  from  it  is  a  mineral 
spring,  said  to  possess  the  properties  of  the  Harrowgate 
waters  of  England. 

From  Verona  to  Manlius  the  railway,  first  approaching 
the  chain  of  small  inland  lakes  of  the  State,  runs  along  a 
line  parallel  with,  but  some  distance  frdm,  the  '=^outhern 
bank  of  Oneida  Lake. 

Oneida,  122  miles  from  Albany,  is  built  upon  a  portion 
of  the  territory  of  the  Oneida  Indians.    The  word  signifies 


I 


ll 

A 

^^1 

// 

^^u 

//; 

H 

/     / 

B9n 

/ 

w, 

' 

p.ji 

/   ^ 

1 

132 


LAKES,    RIVERS,    AND   MOUNTAINS. 


I      ^ 


"  tlio  people  of  tlio  stone."    This  tribe  had  a  traditioa  that 
a  certain  stone  followed  them  in  their  wanderings,  and  at 
length  rested  upon  a  lofty  hill,  upon  which  the  Indiana 
afterward  always  held  their  councils.  A  boulder  of  gneiss, 
lying  upon  a  farm  at  Stockbridge,  was  pointed  out  as  the 
object  of  their  veneration,  and  a  few  years  since  was  re- 
moved to  the  entrance  of  Utica  Cemetery,  where  it  still 
remains.    The  village  is  on  Oneida  Creek,  and  was  incor- 
porated in  1848.    On  the  banks  of  the  creek,  and  about  3 
miles  from  the  village,  a  society  called  the  Oneida  Com- 
munity is  located  upon  a  well-tilled  farm  of  390  acres. 
The  association,  which  includes  both  sexes,  was  organized 
by  John  II.  Noyes,  who  originated  their  peculiar  religious 
and  social  tenets,  in  1847.    They  form  a  general  commu- 
nity, holding  a  common  interest  in  all  things.     The  rela- 
tion of  the  sexes  is  placed,  not  like  that  of  civilized  socie- 
ties, on  the  basis  of  law  and  constraint,  neither  on  the 
opposite  one  of  mere  freedom,  but  on  that  of  "  inspiration." 
They  are  principally  engaged  in  gardening,  nurs'^-ry  busi- 
ness, milling,  and  the  manufacture  of  steel-traps,  sowing- 
silk,  traveling-bags,  cravats,  and  palm-leaf  hats.   The  men 
are  chiefly  engaged  upon  the  land,  and  the  women  in  other 
profitable  jjursuits.     They  also  publish  a  weekly  paper 
called  the  Circular. 

Chittenango  is  133  miles  west,  and  is  the  seat  of  the 
famous  sulphur  springs  known  by  its  name.  (See  article, 
Mineral  Springs  oe'  New- York.) 

Manlius,  140  miles,  is  situated  on  the  border  of  Limestone 
Creek,  where  a  branch  of  the  river  falls  over  a  precipice  100 
feet  high,  forming  a  fine  cascade,  and  a  pleasant  summer 
resort.  Near  this  place  are  sulphur  and  other  mineral 
springs,  but  they  have  not  yet  attracted  public  attention. 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND    MOUNTAINS. 


133 


In  tho  vicinity  are  tliroo  peculiar  ponds,  called  tUo  Qrocn 
Lakes,  from  the  color  of  their  waters. 

Eight  miles  further  on,  we  come  to  the  third  chief  sta- 
tion of  tho  road,  the  seat  of  government  of  tho  third  divi- 
sion of  the  Central  Railway,  the  "central  city"  of  tho  State — 
Syracuse.  It  is  a  favorite  place  for  holding  conventions, 
political,  religious,  and  what  not ;  but  not  a  place  of  much 
interest  to  the  tourist.  There  is  a  depot,  and  numberless 
qiiasi-resta\ira.nt8,  which  is  more  than  can  bo  said  for 
Utica.  Tho  passenger  going  west  will  be  better  fed  at 
Rochester,  81  miles  further  by  the  Direct  Road,  or  at  Cay- 
uga, by  tho  Auburn  Road,  37  miles.  The  Syracuse  House 
and  Globe  Hotel,  however,  are  near  the  depot  here,  and 
time  is  commonly  allowed  for  dinner. 

For  account  of  the  salt-works  and  springs  on  Onondaga 
Lake,  near  the  city,  see  Mineral  Springs  of  New- York. 
If  one  have  a  fancy  for  imagining  similarity  of  place  and 
circumstance,  he  may  think  Onondaga  the  Great  Salt 
La^te,  and  if  not  Syracuse,  at  least  Oneida,  the  city  of  the 
I.r/trfi  r>*.y  Saints;  while  in  point  of  fact,  that  notorious 
I  niK).  tui  3,  the  Book  of  Mormon  itself,  was  pretended  to 
.b'ive  b  n  dug  from  a  hill-side  at  Manchester,  Ontario 
rco  ;?t;^ ,  not  far  west  of  this. 

Passengers  for  Oswego,  and  Lake  Ontario  at  its  east  end, 
go  north  from  Syracuse  by  the  Syracuse  and  Oswego  Rail- 
way, 35  miles.  There  is  nothing  of  interest  on  the  road 
until  the  lake  city  is  reached.  Oswego  is  described  in 
Ontario  and  the  Saint  Lawrence. 

From  Syracuse  diverge  the  two  branches  called  the 
Direct,  and  the  Auburn  or  Old,  Roads.  The  passenger 
going  by  Clyde,  Lyons,  and  Palmyra  will  usually  have  to 
make  no  change  of  cars,  and  reaches  Rochester  an  hour 
sooner  than  he  who  goes  by  Auburn  and  Geneva.    The 


i'      I 

,(,     ■■     I 
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m:-. 


134 


LAKES,    RIVERS,    AND   MOUNTAINS. 


I; 


1,  i 


former  branch  is  much  the  more  agreeable  to  travelers  in 
haste,  or  who  dislike  frequent  stops ;  but  there  are  very- 
few  points  of  interest  along  its  route.  The  express  sta- 
tions are  Port  Byron,  Palmyra,  and  Lyons. 

DIRECT  ROAD. 

Savannah,  100  miles  from  ^*lbany,  33  from  Syracuse,  is 
named  from  the  resemblance  of  2000  acres  of  low,  marshy- 
land,  which  produces  abundance  of  long,  coarse  grass,  to 
the  Spanish  savannas.  The  region  generally  through  this 
division  is  not  very  pleasing.  Clyde,  on  Clyde  River,  6 
miles  beyond,  is  famous  for  the  extensive  fields  of  pepper- 
mint which  are  seen  beside  the  railway.  The  jilant  is 
grown  for  making  the  essence,  and  is  said  to  be  one  of  the 
most  remunerative  crops  that  can  be  cultivated.  About 
one  third  of  all  the  peppermint  grown  in  the  United  States 
is  raised  in  this  section. 

Fanaticism  seems  t)  have  made  its  home  in  Western 
New- York,  and  considerably  within  this  division.  Whe- 
ther this  was  because  of  the  original  occupancy  or  not,  we 
can  not  undertake  to  say ;  but  it  is  odd  that  Onondaga 
county,  which  extends  from  Manlius  to  Jordan  and  beyond 
Skaneateles,  should  have  been  the  residence  of  those  (On- 
ondaga) Indians  who  were  to  the  Iroquois  what  the  tribe 
of  Levi  Was  to  the  children  of  Israel — they  composed  the 
priesthood,  and  were  greatly  venerated.  The  Onondagas 
had  charge  of  the  sacred  council-fires  around  which  war 
was  resolved  upon  or  peace  decreed.  A  remnant  of  the 
ancient  race  of  Onondagas  still  reside  upon  the  Reserva- 
tion ;  their  number  is  about  400.  When  at  Newark,  13 
miles  beyond  Clyde,  we  are  reminded  that  spiritualism 
made  its  first  "rap"  near  by,  at  Hydesville,  a  small  place 
2  miles  distant,  where  it  was  first  heard  by  the  noted  "  Fox 


Lvelers  in 

are  very 

>ress  sta- 


acuse,  18 
,  marshy- 
grass,  to 
ugh  this 
River,  6 
pepper- 
plant  is 
L6  of  the 
About 
d  States 

Western 
Whe- 
not,  we 
ondaga 
beyond 
)se  (On- 
lo  tribe 
sed  the 
ndagas 
ch  war 
of  the 
eserva- 
ark,  13 
ualisra 
I  place 
I  "Fox 


«^o  Mormon,  .ettleSrjgS^ X^*^^'-  "'  ^^^P'^  S""", 
^va»  14  years  of  age.    l/S  T'  "  "'"*  ^"'»°"«  impostor 

"golden  plates,"  ^]Uch  1  Lr/'T' '"  *^"^  ">'  "- 
bore  a  very  bad  reputation"'-  "^''^  J-°""g  maa 
ji;«H,.  His  book  CSt:S*o"  rf  ^"'^  ^''  "'^" 
a  farmer  of  the  region  Jfort i n  w  '      *''"  '''P''°««  "f 

farm  therefor.    The  &r'st''T  ^  '  '''^'''  "^^^ffaged  his 

June,  1830,  with  ao  d  pes     pX"""  "'^  '''^^'^  «' ^^^'^ 
for  campmeetings  witif  tie  F    T'  f  '''°  "  ^"'^"^''^  «"« 
Of  the  Methodist^ChulVtL  ::„f  *''''''-*^-^  ^-=--"t 
ago  to  follow  a  clergyman  BT  IT  '°"''  ^"^  °'  '*'  ^'^^^^ 
to  secret  societies  and  oth";  e'Jreme  J'^' "'""  '^^P^^"'™ 
demnation  and  removal  fm,,,?,    .?       ""'^  <'''°^«''  '"^  con- 
«'ry.    The  sect  is  smilf^.ff  *?"-''-' %-copal  min 
and  in  some  parts  of  Ohio'andlTr-^  '"'''^'''^  hereabouts 
cUefly  bv  extreme  views  oSre"  'aTdT'  '!.'''^«'^^-'-<i 
Paimyra  and  Chili,  at  which  ktrl     '"''''"'•    ^^'^««n 
le^e  just  started,  the  "S  it^m    "  ""•'  '"""^  '^  -'- 
rather  a  monopoly  of  tlfo  sunl  """  ''""^^  ^'^^^ 

o-  linds  quitoconLon  "t  rXl^Tr^^*'"-"^'  ^^'-'> 
"monthly  at  Rochester,  is  thXf  ™        "'""'  P"'"^'^«'l 

Atrnmor  (old)  eoad 

-  =;r  Ts  teHf  r  r-  °^  ^—  - 

Seneca-lie  close  upon    nd  ,1,   r''"'''^-^''^^""-  ^^^ 
beautiful  towns  of  Aubur"  and  fi  ?  '"'  '■''"^'"^^=  "'« 

of  our  journey ;  and  indeed  we/""'"  '''"°"^  *»  «"«  Part 
-e  inland  lake  ^e.on:^;:-^;:;^^;- 


in  II 


136 


LAKES,   EI  VERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


^1 

i 


resorts  to  pleasure-seekers.  We  must  refer  tlie  reader  to 
our  sketches  of  The  Inland  I akes  of  New  York,  for 
more  detailed  reference  to  these  charming  little  sheets  of 
water  than  wo  can  give  in  this  steam-view. 

The  fourth  station  from  Syracuse  (17  miles)  on  the  Old 
Road  is  Ska.neateles — the  point  of  departure  for  the  lake  of 
that  name,  the  town  being  located  5  miles  distant.  This 
is  about  midway  between  Albany  and  Buffalo. 

Auburn  is  174  miles  from  Albany  and  2G  from  Syracuse. 
The  American  is  the  principal  hotel,  and  very  good,  though 
not  first-class.  If  not  absolutely  "  the  loveliest  village  of 
the  plain,"  the  reasons  are  two :  the  plain  here  is  filled  with 
the  most  beautiful  villages,  strangely  similar,  and  Auburn 
is  a  city.  The  visitor  will,  perhaps,  be  at  the  trouble  to 
see  Seward  Park,  the  home  of  our  present  national  Secre- 
tary of  State  ;  the  Theological  Seminary  of  the  Presbyterian 
Church,  headquarters  of  those  presbyteries  and  synods  of 
Central  New- York  which,  "  exscinded"  in  1837  from  the 
General  Assembly,  were  the  nucleus  of  the  since  great 
"  New  School"  branch  of  that  church.  The  State  Prison 
will  be  interesting  to  some  tourists,  possibly — more  par- 
ticularly, if  at  all,  for  the  Asylum  for  Insane  Convicts, 
which,  being  the  only  one  in  the  count:  is  well  worthy 
a  visit. 

The  cemetery,  called  Fort  Hill,  (where  the  Cayuga  chief 
Logan  lies  buried,)  i?  built  upon  an  eminence  which  evi- 
dently belongs  to  that  large  class  of  mysterious  mounds 
left  by  our  earliest  predecessors  upon  this  continent.  (See 
articles  on  Howe's  Cave,  Saint  Louis,  and  other  sites.) 
This  one  is  clearly  believed  to  be  a  fortification  of  that 
ancient  people  of  whom  the  present  Indians  can  give  us 
no  account,  being  far  out-dated  by  them.  They  doubtless 
belonged  to  the  same  general  stock  as  the  aborigines  of 


1' 


LAKES,    EIVEKS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


137 


Mexico,  the  Aztecs;  and  they  are  usually  called  the 
Mound-Builders,  or  the  Alleghans.  This  fort  is  supposed 
to  have  been  built  prior  to  the  discovery  of  the  continent 
by  Columbus,  and  occupied  by  them  for  several  centuries, 
until  at  last  the  Cayugas  overpowered  them.  These  latter 
called  the  place  Osco,  or  Was  Kough,  and  was  their  prin- 
cipal village  until  the  whites  came. 

Cayuga,  11  miles  west  of  Auburn,  is  a  good  eating- 
Etation,  at  the  foot  of  Cayuga  Lake.  The  merits  of  this 
beautiful  and  favorite  sheet  of  water  are  noticed  elsewhere, 
as  already  mentioned. 

Seneca  Falls,  5  miles  further — 190  from  Albany — is  sit- 
uated upon  the  banks  of  the  Seneca  River,  and  the  outlet 
of  Seneca  Lake.  The  river  is  about  14  miles  long,  and 
has  here  a  fall  of  50  feet,  which  furnishes  considerable 
water-power.  It  was  in  this  township  that  Mr£  Amelia 
Bloomer  first  introduced  the  dress  reform,  and  the  style  of 
dress  that  takes  her  name.  The  scene  of  Bayard  Taylor's 
Hannah  Thurston  is  laid  in  this  vicinity. 

Geneva,  (Kanadesaga  was  the  Indian  name,)  7  miles  be- 
yond Waterloo,  and  10  from  Seneca  Falls,  is  perhaps  the 
most  beautiful  village  upon  the  line,  having  the  special 
advantage  of  a  lake  view  from  the  ridge  or  terrace,  100 
feet  high,  along  which  runs  its  principal  residence  avenue. 
Hobart  College,  one  of  the  chief  institutions  of  the  Episco- 
l^al  Church,  is  located  on  this  avenue,  overlooking  the 
breadth  of  Seneca  Lake.  The  attractions  of  this  most 
beautiful  sheet  of  water  may  be  found  elsewhere  in  this  vol- 
ume. The  country  about  is  fertile  and  picturesque.  Several 
miles  out  is  the  "  Banner  Farm"  of  the  State,  belonging  to 
Gideon  Lee,  Esq.,  of  New- York  City  ;  and  a  short  distance 
from  the  village  is  another  monument  of  the  m  d- 
builders.    A  mile  and  a  half  north-west  of  the  villag*;  is  a 


138 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


II  i' 


plot  of  gronncl,  called  Old  Castle.  It  contains  an  Indian 
buryinfy-orround,  and  in  giving  up  the  country,  the  Indians 
stipulated  that  these  few  sacred  acres  should  never  bo 
plowed.     This  pledge  has  not  been  violated. 

Hotels. — The  Mansion  House,  and  the  United  States, 
$3.50  per  day, 

Clifton  is  64  miles  from  Syracuse,  40  from  Rochester, 
and  212  from  Albany.  It  is  the  site  of  the  famous  Clifton 
Springs,  under  which  title  they  are  discussed  elsewhere. 

Canandaigua  is  both  on  the  Central  and  on  the  Erie 
Railway,  223  miles  from  Albany.  The  name  is  a  corrup- 
tion of  Gan-a-dar-que,  "a  chosen  spot,"  named  by  the 
Seneca  Indians.  The  village  is  located  on  the  outlet  of 
Canandaigua  Lake,  and  is  the  capital  of  Ontario  county. 
It  is  equally  distinguished  for  the  picturesque  beauty  of 
its  situation,  and  the  elegance  of  its  buildings.  The  ground 
descends  gently  from  the  upper  part  of  the  village  toward 
the  lake,  of  which  it  commands  an  extensive  prospect. 
Population,  about  5000.  In  a  room  of  the  court-house  are 
suspended  the  portraits  of  many  of  the  most  distinguished 
pioneers  of  the  country,  and  many  important  officers  of  the 
United  States.  Brigham  Young,  the  Patriarch  of  Utah, 
was  long  a  resident  of  Canandaigua ;  and  Fayette,  where 
the  first  Mormon  society  was  formed,  in  1830,  three  years 
after  the  pretended  unearthing  of  the  golden  plat-^s,  is  in 
the  adjoining  county  of  Seneca. 

The  city  of  Rochester  is  distant  from  Syracuse  81  miles 
by  Direct  Road,  and  104  by  the  Auburn  Road.  Distances 
beyond  this  are  always  reckoned  by  the  first  route,  over 
which  the  express  trains  travel  71  m-  best  hotels  at  Ro- 
chester are :  Osburn  House,  Ma'.r  piret-t ;  Brackett  House 
and  Congress  Hall,  at  the  depot.  Tie  Ir  ?t  of  Jiese  charges 
$3.50  per  day,  and  being  of  limited  rAze,  accommodates 


LAKES, 


EIVERS,   AiTD   MOUNTAINS. 


139 


'I ; 


only  transient  boarders.  Its  table  is  the  best  in  the  city  ; 
the  other  houses  excel  in  rooms  and  situation,  and  charge 
about  $4  per  day .  The  Clinton  Hotel,  on  Exchange  street, 
is  a  good  second-class  house,  $3  per  day.  Horse-cars  com- 
municate with  both  the  distant  houses,  about  a  quarter- 
mile.  The  Erie  Railway,  or  "  Valley  depot,"  is  situated 
on  the  same  street  with  the  Clinton  Hotel,  nxore  than 
half  a  mile  from  the  Central  depot ;  horse-cars  passing 
the  former  run  within  one  block  of  the  latter. 

The  "  lions'*  of  Rochester  are  the  Falls  of  the  Genesee, 
which  may  be  found  described  under  the  proper  title  else- 
where. The  city-cars  run  within  a  short  distance  of  all 
three.  After  these,  one  wishes  to  visit  the  University  (Bap- 
tist) of  Rochester,  on  University  avenue,  nearly  2  miles  out 
Main  street.  This  elegant  edifice  contains  what  is  called 
the  finest  geological  collection  in  the  country.  The  Ro- 
chester Theological  (also  Baptist)  Seminary  has  a  very  un- 
promising building  at  present,  but  boasts  the  finest  theolo- 
gical library  save  one  (Union  Seminary,  New- York  City)  in 
the  United  States.  Saint  Mary's  Hospital  is  a  fine,  light 
granite  structure  further  out  in  the  same  direction.  The 
Arcade,  on  Main  street,  containing  the  post-office  and  a 
variety  of  stores,  is  worth  a  visit.  All  these  places  are 
reached  by  the  city  cars,  as  also  Mount  Hope  Cemetery,  a 
very  beautiful  ]}lace  near  tl\e  Genesee  River,  commanding 
from  its  tower  a  view  of  Lake  Ontario.  On  the  way 
thither,  after  crossing  the  river,  one  should  visit  the  fa- 
mous nurseries  (EUwanger  and  Barry's,  500  acres,  the 
chief)  which  are  the  greatest  and  finest  in  the  world. 
Rochester  is  the  great  centre  and  mart  of  the  Genesee 
Valley,  and  is  the  most  beautiful  city,  beyond  comparison, 
in  the  Empire  State,  both  in  its  business  and  residence 
streets.     Like  the  citizens  of  Providence,  its  thrifty  people 


II 


140 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


own  tlie  dwellings  tliey  occupy,  and  beautify  them  with 
delightful  public  spirit ;  but  for  a  stranger  seeking  a  board- 
ing-house, there  is  not  a  more  unpromising  place  imagin- 
able, unless  hotel-life  will  content  him. 


BUFFALO  ROAD. 

Passing  west  of  Rochester,  on  the  main  road  which  goes 
direct  to  Buffalo  through  Pcrgen  and  Batavia,  we  come 
upon  Chili,  10  miles  out,  only  interesting  to  any  one  for 
the  new  Free  Methodist  school  established  there. 

Byron,  253  miles  from  Albany,  is  a  small  station,  con- 
taining about  200  inhabitants.  A  sulphuric  acid  spring, 
popularly  known  as  the  Sour  Spring,  flows  from  a  hill 
near  the  village.     Gypsum  is  quarried  in  the  village. 

Batavia  and  Buffalo. — See  paragraphs  in  article  on  The 
Erie  Railway. 

The  Charlotte  branch  extends  from  Rochester  northward 
to  Lake  Ontario  at  the  port  of  Charlotte  (accented  on  the 
final  syllable)  6  miles.  The  ride  to  the  lake  is  a  charming 
one,  through  the  woods,  with  many  a  glimpse  of  the 
Genesee  River,  at  whose  mouth  it  ends ;  and  at  the  dock 
of  the  Ontario  Steamboat  Company  a  fine  view  of  the  lake 
may  be  had.  For  the  trip  on  Ontario,  see  article,  entitled 
LaivE  Ontario  and  the  Saint  Lawrence.  Passengers 
for  Toronto  from  New- York  come  thus  far  by  the  Central 
Railway,  and  take  steamboat  Corintliian.  Fare,  about 
$2.50,  including  meals  and  state-rooms.  Distance,  about 
70  miles.  Toronto  may  also  be  reached  by  the  fine  boats 
of  the  Ontario  Steamboat  (American  Express  Line)  Com- 
pany, whose  office  is  two  doors  from  Congress  Hall. 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAIJ/S. 


Ul 


PALLS  ROAD. 

Tlie  other  division  from  Rochester,  extending  on  a  more 
northerly  line  to  Niagara  Falls,  has  much  morb  interest 
than  the  Buffalo  Road  to  tourists.  It  is  commonly  called 
the  "  Falls  Road." 

Brockport,  17  miles  from  Rochester,  945  from  Albany,  is 
a  pleasant  village,  where  is  one  of  the  new  Normal  Schools 
of  the  State. 

Holley,  249  miles  from  Albany,  is  interesting  for  2  sul- 
l^hur  and  several  salt  springs  in  the  vicinity,  from  the  lat- 
ter of  which  salt  was  formerly  manufactured. 

Medina,  268  miles,  is  famous  for  its  quarries  of  Medina 
sandstone,  excellent  for  paving  purposes.  There  are  se- 
veral salt  springs  in  the  vicinity. 

Gasport,  278  miles,  derives  its  name  from  a  curious 
spring,  which  emits  an  inflammable  hydro-carbon  gas  or 
vapor.  An  enterprising  storekeeper  has  succeeded  in  con- 
verting this  vapor  to  a  useful  purpose  by  lighting  his 
store  with  it.  The  place  contains  a  church,  an  academy, 
and  800  inhabitants. 

Lockport,  284  miles,  is  very  well  worthy  a  visit,  both 
for  its  natural  and  its  architectural  attractions.  Here  are 
5  consecutive  locks  of  the  Erie  Canal,  which  overcome 
an  elevation  of  nearly  60  feet ;  the  surplus  water  afford- 
ing a  great  power  to  the  many  manufactories  of  the  vil- 
lage. In  the  construction  of  this  work  a  solid  limestone 
barrier  was  excavated  from  25  to  30  feet  in  depth,  62  feet 
in  width,  and  15  feet  for  a  tow-path.  Water  in  any  de- 
sirable quantity  may  be  drawn  from  the  Erie  level,  and 
returned  to  the  canal,  60  feet  below,  without  detriment  to 
navigation.  Fine  limestone  and  sandstone  flaggings  and 
building  materials  are  quarried  here,  affording  employ- 
ment to  several  hundred  men.    One  stratum  of  the  lime- 


V   \ 

PHI 


11 
I 


142 


LAKES,    RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


I'    i 


stone  is  filled  with  fossils,  and,  when  polished,  presents  a 
sinf^ular  and  beautiful  appearance.  It  is  used  for  orna- 
mental purposes. 

Suspension  Bridge  has  been  already  mentioned  in  the 
article  on  Niagara  Falls  ;  and  with  that  we  come  to  the 
end  of  our  journey,  since  we  have  nothing  to  note  on  the 
small  branch  of  the  railway  which  diverges  at  Lockport, 
running  to  Buffalo. 

THE  WYOMING  VALLEY. 

The  Susquehanna  River,  which  enters  the  Appalachian 
system  of  mountains  at  Towanda,  Bradford  county,  Pa., 
by  breaking  the  western  chain,  rolls  the  great  volume 
of  its  waters  over  a  rocky  bed,  through  several  ridges 
in  rapid  succession,  and  enters  the  Wyoming  Valley  by 
a  marked  mountain-pass  above  the  mouth  of  Lackawannock 
Creek,  called  Lackawannock  Gap ;  thence  flows  in  a  serpen- 
tine course  about  20  miles,  and  leaves  the  Valley  through 
another  opening  of  the  same  mountain,  called  Nanticoke 
Gap.  These  passages,  which  have  width  only  sufficient 
to  admit  the  river,  are  partly  faced  with  perpendicular 
rocks,  covered  by  a  thick  growth  of  pine  and  laurel-trees. 
The  river  is  in  most  places  about  200  yards  wide,  from  4 
to  20  feet  deep,  and  moves  with  a  very  gentle  current,  ex- 
cept at  the  rapids,  or  when  swelled  with  rain  or  melted 
snows.  Near  the  centre  of  the  valley  it  has  a  rapid,  called 
the  Wyoming  Falls,  and  another  at  the  lower  gap,  de- 
signated as  the  Nanticoke  Falls.  Several  tributary  streams 
fall  into  it  on  each  side,  after  traversing  rocky  passes,  form- 
ing beautiful  cascades  as  they  descend  to  the  plain.  From 
the  north-west  are  Toby's  Creek,  Moses's  Creek,  and  Island 
Run;  from  the  south-east  Mill  Creek,  Laurel  Run,  Solo- 
mon'b  Creek,  Nanticoke  Creek ;   all  affording  excellent 


LAKES,    RIVERS,   AND   MOUISTAINS. 


14; 


mill-sites  and  abounding  with  fisli,  cliiofly  tlio  speckled 
trout. 

The  particular  Valley  of  Wyominpf  is  a  continuation  of 
that  of  the  Lackawannock,  which  taken  together  have  an  ex- 
tent of  32  miles,  by  a  mean  breadth  of  2.^  miles.  Dr.  Silliman 
(the  elder)  has  thus  described  the  Valley :  "  Its  form  is  that 
of  a  very  long  oval  or  ellipsis.  It  is  bounded  by  grand 
mountain  barriers,  and  watered  by  n  noble  river  and  its 
tributaries.  The  first  glance  of  a  stranger  entering  it  at 
either  end,  or  crossing  the  mountain  ridges  which  divide 
it  (like  the  Happy  Valley  of  Abyssinia)  from  the  rest  of 
the  world,  fills  him  with  peculiar  pleasure,  produced  by  a 
fine  landscape,  containing  richness,  beauty,  and  grandeur. 
From  Prospect  Hill,  on  the  rocky  summit  of  the  eastern 
barrier,  and  from  Ross  Hill,  on  the  west,  the  Valley  of 
Wyoming  is  seen  in  one  view,  as  a  charming  whole,  and 
its  lofty  and  well-defined  boundaries  exclude  more  distant 
objects  from  mingling  in  the  scene.  Few  landscapes  that 
I  have  beheld  can  vie  with  the  Valley  of  Wyoming." 

In  story,  Wyoming  is  not  less  rich  than  in  natural 
beauty  and  mineral  treasure.  (For  the  mineral  wealth  of 
this  mountain  valley  is  as  remarkable  as  its  natural  attrac- 
tions. Iron  and  coal  abound.  The  whole  region  is  one  an- 
thracite coal-field,  in  depths  of  3  to  27  feet.)  Not  only  did 
the  aborigines  whom  our  forefathers  knew  make  this 
a  favorite  ground,  but  it  was  beloved  by  the  race  long  an- 
terior to  them,  whose  unexplained  monuments  alone  re- 
main to  us.  One  of  the  few  of  these  now  existing  at  all  is 
a  defensive  mound  or  rampart  in  Kingston  township,  on  a 
level  x)lain  upon  the  north  side  of  Toby's  Creek,  about  150 
feet  from  the  bank  and  a  half-mile  from  the  confluence 
with  the  Susquehanna.  When  the  Europeans  first  came 
to  Wyoming,  this  plain  was  covered  with  a  primitive 


.(     !       'I 


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,i  » 


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144 


LAKES,    mVEKS,   AND   MOUNTAIJSS. 


u 


forest,  chiefly  oak  and  yellow  pine ;  and  tlio  trees  on  the 
rampart  and  in  the  trench  were  as  large  as  tliose  in  any 
other  part  of  the  valley  ;  one  groat  oak  particularly,  upon 
being  cut  down,  was  ascertained  to  have  flourished  700 
years.  The  Indians  had  no  traditions  concerning  these 
fortifications,  nor  any  knowledge  of  their  use. 

The  terrible  Battle  of  Wyoming,  to  which,  alas  I  most 
of  us  are  indebted  chiefly  for  our  familiarity  with  the  name 
of  this  beautiful  tract,  and  which  has  been  so  often  a  iTuit- 
ful  theme  for  pen  and  pencil,  occurred  July  od,  1778.  The 
colonial  settlers,  who  had  previously  been  at  variance  on 
account  of  being  interested  in  charters  from  different  au- 
thorities, had,  at  the  breaking  out  of  the  Revolution,  united 
in  an  effort  to  form  a  home-guard  for  self-protection.  Two 
companies  thus  formed  were,  however,  ordered  to  join 
General  Washington,  and  a  third,  imperfectly  organized 
and  equipped,  in  1778,  was  unequal  to  the  terrible  need 
that  soon  arose.  A  body  of  400  British  and  700  Indians, 
chiefly  Senecas,  under  Colonel  John  Butler,  entered  the 
Valley  June  30th,  1778 ;  and  the  inhabitants  having  taken 
refuge  in  Fort  Forty,  (so  called  from  the  number  in  one  of 
the  bands  of  settlers,  those  from  Connecticut,)  a  feeble 
force  of  300  men,  (commanded  by  Colonel  Zebulon  Butler, 
a  continental  officer,)  gave  battle  on  the  3d  of  July,  and 
lost.  Then  followed  the  horrid  massacre  w  hich,  although 
it  is  now  certain  that  the  Indian  Brant  did  not  participate 
in  it,  and  that  the  whole  affair  has  been  exaggerated,  has 
had  few  parallels  in  American  history  until  the  era  of  se- 
cession. The  whole  number  of  sufferers  is  put  down  in 
Dana's  Cydopcedia  at  300.  Few  of  the  ill-fated  people  es- 
caped. Prisoners  were  grouped  around  large  stones,  and 
were  murdered  with  the  tomahawk,  amid  yells  and  incan- 
tations of  fiendish  triumph.     One  of  these  stones  of  in- 


ii 


LAKES,    RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


145 


liuman  pacrifico  may  yet  bo  Bocn  in  the  valley.  It  is 
called  Queen  Estlu  r's  Hock,  from  tho  half-breed  Indian 
woman  who  there  avenged  her  son's  death  by  tomahawk- 
ing 14  Soldiers,  and  lies  near  the  old  river-bank,  some  3 
miles  above  Fort  Forty.  Tho  villa<?o  of  Wilkesbarro  was 
burnt  at  this  time,  and  its  inhabitants  were  either  killed, 
taken  j)risoners,  or  scattered  in  the  surroundinf^^  forests. 
Tho  site  of  Fort  Forty  is  across  the  river  from  Wilkes- 
barro, past  tho  opposite  village  of  Kingston,  and  nearly 
west  of  Troy,  4.}  miles  distant.  At  this  spot,  where  the 
slain  were  buried,  there  now  stands  a  monument  comme- 
morative of  the  great  disaster.  It  is  an  obelisk  G2i  feet 
high,  made  of  granite  blocks  hewn  in  the  neighborhood. 
The  names  of  those  who  fell,  and  of  those  who  were  in  the 
battle  and  survived,  are  engraved  upon  marble  tablets  sei; 
in  the  base  of  the  monument.  This  praiseworthy  work 
was  done  by  the  exertions  of  the  ladies  of  Wyoming. 

Nanticoke  and  West-Xanticoke  are  little  coal-villagca 
at  tho  southern  extremity  of  the  Wyoming  Valley,  8  miles 
by  rail  from  Wilkesbarro,  where,  as  we  have  already  inti- 
mated, occur  some  of  the  boldest  passages  of  the  scenery 
of  tlio  Susquehanna.  A  beautiful  view  of  the  Wyomin,o-  is 
seen  looking  northward  from  the  hills  on  the  east  side  of 
the  river  near  Nanticoke ;  and  the  scenes  below,  from  the 
banks  of  the  river  and  tho  canal,  are  most  varied  and  de- 
lightful. Tho  coal-mines  of  this  neighborhood  may  easily 
bo  penetrated,  and  with  ample  remuneration  for  tho  ven- 
ture. 

Jessup's  is  a  very  cozy,  lone  inn,  upon  the  west  shore,  2 
or  3  miles  below  Nanticoke,  from  whence  are  seen  striking 
pictures  of  the  river  and  its  bold  mountain  banks  both 
above  and  below ;  the  hills  in  all  this  vicinity  are  impres- 
sively bold  and  lofty,  making  the  comparatively  narrow 


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33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  MSSO 

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146 


LAKES,   E     EBS, 


AND  MOUNTAINS. 


II  Ir 


channel  of  the  river  seem  yet  narrower.  Shickshinny  and 
Wapwallopen  are  little  places  yet  below,  in  the  midst 
of  a  rugged  hill  and  valley,  region. 

The  route  to  Wyoming  Valley  from  New- York  is  by  the 
New-Jersey  Central  Railway  to  Hampton  Junction,  59 
miles ;  thence  by  the  Delaware,  Lackawanna,  and  Western, 
83  miles,  to  Scranton;  and  thence  by  the  Lackawanna 
and  Blpomsbury  Railway,  17  miles,  to  Kingston,  opposite 
Wilkesbarre,  which  is  the  headquarters  of  the  valley  dis- 
;trict. 

The  route  from  Philadelphia  is  by  the  North  Pennsyl- 
vania  Railway  to  Bethlehem,  and  thence  by  the  Lehigh 
Valley  and  Lehigh  and  Susquehanna  Railways  to  Wilkes- 
barre. The  Wyoming  Valley  Hotel  is  one  of  the  best  in 
fthe  State,  with  ample  accommodations  for  250  guests. 
The  town  is  reached  by  stage,  one  mile  from  the  railway 
depot.  It  is  regularly  laid  off  in  wide,  well-shaded  streets, 
with  a  public  square  and  a  court-house  near  the  centre.  It 
contains  several  handsome  church  edifices,  and  a  popu- 
lation of  about  7000.  Among  its  principal  attractions  for 
tourists  are  Prospect  Rock,  which  commands  a  fine  view 
of  the  valley,  Battle  Monument,  Harvey's  Lake,  etc. 


•♦• 


IHE   HIGHLANDS   OF   NEW-JERSEY. 


mO 


i" 


11:1 

I!  I  ^ 


THE  MOBSIS  AND  ESSEX  EAILWAT. 

*  'There  can  be  no  more  pleasing  region  for  a  subui'ban 
summer  residence  for  New-Yorkers  than  the  line  of  the 
Morris  and  Essex  Railway,  in  the  State  of  New-Jersey. 
Within  the  past  few  years,  exiled  tax-payers  have  begun 
to  wake  up  to  the  charms  of  Morris  and  Essex  counties  in 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


147 


the  **  out-of-tlio-world  "  State,  and  now,  where  there  used 
to  be  but  two  stopping-stations,  there  are  upward  of  a 
dozen  within  20  miles  of  the  city.  Recently,  too,  the  in- 
creased facilities  which  the  extension  of  the  Morris  and 
Essex  Railway  to  Easton  have  offered  to  commerce,  have 
made  the  route  somewhat  widely  known  as  a  new  and 
most  direct  avenue  to  the  West.  The  whole  line  of  the 
railway,  as  far  as  Chatham  (26  miles)  at  least,  is  one  con- 
tinued garden,  such  as  one  sees  on  several  of  the  roads 
leading  through  the  suburbs  of  Boston.  The  laying  of  a 
new  grade  and  a  double  track,  with  the  inconvenient  in- 
crease of  business,  has  retarded  certain  improvements 
which  summer  tourists  will  miss  ;  but  the  region  opened 
by  the  road  is  too  attractive  ever  to  lose  the  prestige  which 
it  has  now  among  some  of  its  frequenters. 

Morristown,  now  a  city,  32  miles,  the  capital  of  Morris 
county,  is  splendidly  situated  on  tho  Whippany  River. 
It  is  noteworthy  as  having  been  the  headquarters  of  the 
American  army  on  two  occasions.  The  house  occupied  by 
General  Washington  is  still  visible  from  the  railway. 
The  town  contains  a  fine  public  square,  court-house,  and 
several  churches.  Population,  4000.  Speedwell  Lake  lies 
in  the  near  vicinity  of  the  liotels.  At  Chester,  12  miles  by 
stage,  (until  a  branch  railway  is  completed,)  summer 
board  may  be  found  at  moderate  prices  at  the  Young  La- 
dies' Institute,  Miss  Megie,  principal.  This  is  in  the  midst 
of  a  very  pleasant,  quiet  region,  which  affords  a  delight- 
ful retreat  for  persons  tired  of  the  noisier  places. 

Dover,  44  miles,  fare  $1.45,  is  headquarters  for  persons 
going  to  the  lakes  and  to  Schooley's  Mountain.  The 
Mansion  House,  by  I.  B.  Jolley,  is  the  best  hotel  in  the 
county,  open  all  the  ye^  r  round,  with  rooms  for  nearly  100 
guests.    The  excellent  livery-stable  of  Mr.  Jolley  is  in 


148 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND  MOUNTAINS. 


constant  activity  through  the  summer  season,  as  most 
parties  prefer  to  leave  the  railway  at  Dover  and  seek  the 
watering-places  by  stage  or  carriage  from  Jolley's.  The 
Stickle  House,  W.  Jones,  proprietor,  can  accommodate  50 
persons.  Distances  from  Dover  as  follows  :  to  Schooley's 
Mountain,  30  miles ;  to  Lake  Hopatcong,  (Brookland 
Pond,)  6  miles ;  Long  Pond,  10  miles ;  Green  Pond,  30 
miles  ;  Seneca wana  (Budd's)  Lake,  7  miles.  The  remain- 
ing lake  of  the  Highlands  of  Ne\\  -Jersey,  G:  eenwood,  is 
mentioned  in  the  article  on  The  Erie  Railway  ;  it  is  not 
usually  included  in  the  tour  from  Dover. 


BUDD'S  (SENECAWANA)  LAKE. 

Lake  Senecawana,  commonly  called  Budd's  Lake,  is  3 
miles  from  Stanhope,  on  the  Morris  and  Essex  Railway,  54 
miles  from  New- York  City.  Stages  run  from  all  trains 
during  the  summer  to  Forest  Grove  House,  on  a  hill  di- 
rectly in  front  of  the  lake.  Passengers  also  come  from 
Dover  as  already  stated.  The  entire  circumference  of 
Senecawana — it  is  quite  circular — is  not  more  than  3^ 
miles,  and  its  whole  surface  can  be  distinctly  seen  fro'n 
the  b^ilcony  of  the  hotel.  One  is  charmed  at  first  sight. 
The  white,  clear  water,  the  margin  of  which  is  lined  on 
every  side  with  dense  foliage ;  the  sloping  hill  and  culti- 
vated fields,  teeming,  a  little  later  in  the  season  than  this, 
(May,)  with  rich  cereals,  together  with  the  mountains  ap- 
pearing in  the  distance,  present  a  view  picturesque  and 
unique,  of  which  the  eye  never  tires.  Fishing  is  the  com- 
mon pastime.  The  piscatory  sportsman  is  not  satisfied 
with  his  finny  game  unless  he  bring  home  some  heavy 
pickerel.  This  lake,  occupying  one  of  the  healtliiest  locali- 
ties of  the  Highlands,  is  a  favorite  resort  of  the  ladies,  and 
ought  to  be  called  the  Ladies'  Lake.    It  is  so  easy  of  ac- 


I't' 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS.  149 


ied 


nd 
ac- 


cess, retired,  quiet,  neat,  and  sure  of  good  accommodations, 
they  always  feel  at  home.  They  are  not  afraid  to  sail,  or 
row,  or  ride  at  anchor,  as  their  boat  is  always  in  sight ; 
and  if  unsuccessful  in  angling,  they  seldom  fail  to  secure 
a  quantity  of  the  white,  fragrant  lilJes  which  grow  near 
the  shor**,  and  are  constantly  in  bloom. 

The  hotel,  kept  by  Messrs.  J.  M.  Sharp  &  Co.,  is  one 
well-knov.'n  in  select  metropolitan  circles,  and  is  always 
full  of  excellent  society.  There  are  rooms  for  about 
300  guests.  Teims,  $3  per  day,  $15  to  $31  per  week. 
Telegraph  stations  at  Stanhope  and  Dover. 

LAKE  HOFATCONG,  (BBOOKLAND  FOND.) 

Lake  Hopatcong  is  6  miles  south  from  Senecawana, 
(Budd's  Lake,)  and  4  from  Drakesville,  a  station  on  the 
Morris  and  Essex  Railway.  Stages  from  this  station  and 
from  Dover,  6  miles,  convey  passengers  to  the  hotel,  the 
Lake  Hopatcong  House.  Mr.  Hiker,  proprietor,  can  find 
room  for  some  75  guests  ;  but  the  accommodations  at  this 
lake  are  decidedly  inferior  to  those  elsewhere  in  the  High- 
lands, while  the  attractions  of  the  lake  itself  "^re  much 
greater.  There  is  no  telegraph  station  nearer  than  Dover, 
6  miles.  The  house  has  usually  a  large  and  fashionable 
patronage  during  the  summer,  including  a  number  of  the 
most  aristocratic  families  of  New- York  City.  Mr.  August 
Belmont  has  spent  a  num  jer  of  summers  here.  The  terms 
for  this,  as  well  as  for  the  other  houses  in  this  region,  will 
not  vary  far  from  those  given  for  Senecawana — $3  per  day, 
and  $15  to  $21  per  week. 

The  Indian  name  of  this  lake,  Hopatcong,  according  to 
George  Copway,  signifies  "  Stone  Water,"  or  "  Stone  over 
Water."  It  was  probaoly  given  to  it  on  account  of  an 
ancient  ridge  here,  which  is  a  regular  causeway  of  stone. 


150 


LAKES,   RIVERS,  AND  MOUNTAINS. 


running  from  an  island  nearly  across  to  tho  shore,  a  dis- 
tance of  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile.     It  was,  no  doubt, 
made  by  the  Indians,  and  was  a  work  of  great  labor.    The 
water  is  noW  a  little  above  it,  occasioned  by  the  raising  of 
the  lake  for  the  Morris  and  Essex  Canal,  which  is  supplied 
by  a  feeder  from  the  Hopatcong  outlet.    On  the  opposite 
shore  are,  or  used  to  be,  found  great  numbers  of  Indian 
arrows,  axes,  and  broken  jaiB ;  and  appearances  indicate 
it  was  the  site  of  an  Indian  village.    The  more  familiar 
name  applied  to  the  lake  by  the  country  people  round 
about  is  Brookland  Pond ;  and  the  chances  are,  that  a  visi- 
tor in  the  somewhat  primitive  region  close  around  the 
lake,  inquiring  for  "  Lake  Hopatcong,"  would  find  that  it 
had  never  been  heard  of.    Among  the  children  of  civiliza- 
tion, however,  the  local  title  is  ignored  for  the  Indian  one. 
The  lake  is  usually  said  to  be  9  miles  in  length,  though, 
measured  in  a  straight  line,  it  is  not  more  than  5^  miles. 
We  can  hardly  speak  of  direct  length  to  water  that 
abounds  in  islands  and  has  its  coves  and  bights  whose  in- 
dentations are  terminated  by  perpendicular  cliffs  or  exten- 
sive mountain  slopes.    The  scenery  here,  unlike  that  of 
Budd's  Lake,  is  ever  changing  with  your  change  of  posi- 
tion.   The  shore,  little  cultivated,  is  for  the  most  part  a 
forest,  whose  deciduous  foliage,  interspersed  with  a  variety 
of  evergreens,  presents  every  shade  of  green  from  the 
lightest  salix  to  the  darkest  cedar.     The  surface  of  the 
lake  is  720  feet  above  the  Hudson  at  New- York,  and  660 
feet  above  the  Delaware  at  Easton.    A  steamboat  crosses 
the  lake  several  times  a  day  in  the  service  of  the  canal. 
There  are  all  manner  of  recreations  possible  here,  the 
chief  being  fishing :  pickerel,  perch,  catfish,  eels,  and  sal- 
mon-trout are  the  principal  ones  caught.    Two  islands  of 
considerable  note  lie  over  against  each  other — Canfield 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


151 


and  Halsey — the  one  near  the  head  and  the  other  near  the 
foot  of  the  lake.  Canfield  Island  has  a  fine  garden  upon 
it ;  the  other  still  maintains  its  primeval  state,  and  is  the 
favorite  picnicking  ground  for  excursionists. 

J^Yom  Southard's  Peak,  a  few  yards  east  of  the  hotel, 
you  have  a  fine  view  of  the  surrounding  country  ;  on  the 
west  is  the  Delaware  Water  Gap,  and  on  the  cast  the 
Bloomfiold  Mountains. 


5ty 


al. 
,he 
al- 
of 

ad 


SCHOOLET'S  MOUNTAIN. 

Schooley's  Mountain,  the  most  famous  resort  in  the 
Highlands,  is  a  ridge  of  considerable  extent,  Budd's  Lake 
being  upon  one  part  of  its  summit.  There  are  two  hotels, 
both  well  known  and  well  kept — ^tlie  Belmont  House,  D. 
A.  Crowell,  proprietor,  300  guests,  and  the  Heath  House, 
same  capacity.  Telegraph  at  the  Belmont.  The  height 
of  the  mountain  is  about  1100  feet  above  the  sea.  Springs, 
containing  muriate  of  soda,  of  lime,  and  of  maf^nesia,  sul- 
phate of  lime,  carbonate  of  magnesia,  and  silex,  and  car- 
bonated oxide  of  iron,  are  near  its  summit.  The  drives  in 
the  region  are  very  fine  indeed,  and,  for  citizens  of  the  me- 
tropolis, there  is  no  more  delightful  resort  within  a  half- 
day's  journey.  The  society  at  the  mountain  is  always  ex- 
cellent.   Terms  as  at  the  lakes. 

Tourists  from  New-York  come  by  the  Morris  and  Essex 
Railway,  63  miles  to  Hackettstown,  and  thence  2^  miles 
by  stage.  The  ride  from  Dover,  20  miles,  is,  of  course, 
more  wearisome,  but  attractive  in  its  scenery.  There  is 
no  stage  to  or  from  Dover.  Visitors  from  the  south  pro- 
ceed ma  Philadelphia  and  New-Brunswick,  connecting 
with  the  NewJersey  Central  Railway  at  Bound  Brook, 
and  from  this  line  as  above. 


152 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


11 


THE  VALLET  OF  THE  NAXJGATUCK. 

Travelers  going  north  and  east  from  New- York  City 
may  find  a  very  beautiful  detour  from  the  regular  Connec- 
ticut Valley  route,  in  the  ra'lway  which  separates  from 
the  latter  at  Bridgeport,  and  pursues  the  direct  northerly 
course  of  a  small  but  beautiful  river,  called  the  Naugatuck. 
The  Housatonic  Railway,  taking  name  from  the  stream 
which  it  follows,  also  commences  at  Bridgeport,  having  its 
terminus  at  Pittsfield,  Mass.,  110  miles  distant.  The  Nau- 
gatuck Railway  follows  the  course  of  its  river  likewise, 
taking  advantage  of  the  passes,  which  it  secures,  through 
and  between  the  hills,  and  ends  at  Winsted,  63  miles. 
Bridgeport  is  reached  from  New- York  City  by  steamboat, 
from  Pier  35,  East  River,  at  12  M.,  or  by  railway,  from  27th 
Street,  at  8  A.M.  and  3  p.m.  The  morning  train  affords 
the  opportunity  to  see  the  country,  and  return  to  Bridge- 
port in  the  afternoon,  arriving  at  5.30  o'clock,  or  to  stop 
over  night,  and  in  the  morning  go  on  by  stage  from  Win- 
sted to  Canaan,  (Housatonic  Railway,)  Ct.,  whence  by 
rail  to  Pittsfield,  at  5.35  p.m.  Fare,  New- York  to  Bridge- 
port, $1.70 ;  Bridgeport  to  Winsted,  $2.05  ;  stage  fare,  15 
miles,  $1.50 ;  Canaan  to  Pittsfield,  about  $1.25.  Pittsfield 
is  51  miles  from  Springfield,  on  the  Boston  and  Albany 
(Western)  Railway. 

The  Housatonic  and  Naugatuck  Rivers  are  important 
mill-streams  which  give  life  and  activity  to  a  very  large 
number  of  factories  in  all  departments  of  mechanical  labor. 
Such  are  the  Wheeler  &  Wilson  Sewing-Machine  facto- 
ries, at  Bridgeport;  the  brass  and  copper-mills,  and  the 
clock-shops,  of  Phelps,  Dodge  and  Company,  at  Ansonia ; 
the  pin  factories,  at  Waterbury ;  the  25  or  30  paper-mills, 
in  Lee,  etc.  The  Housatonic  trip  is  made  the  subject  of  a 
separate  sketch.  •; 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAI.^S. 


153 


The  Naugatuck  River  rises  within  tlie  confines  of  Con- 
necticut, in  that  mountainous  corner  which  composes 
Litchfield  county.  The  country,  for  the  first  few  miles  of 
its  progress,  and  behind  it,  is  not  very  inviting  to  the  tra- 
veler ;  but  at  the  station  called  Litchfield,  where  the  rail- 
way first  meets  the  river  on  the  way  to  Bridgeport,  the 
scenery  becomes  very  pleasing.  Litchfield,  lying  2  or  3 
miles  west  of  the  station,  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of 
Connecticut  inland  villages.  It  is  the  county-seat,  and 
was  the  birth-place  of  Henry  Ward  Beecher.  (See  Hou- 
SATONio  Valley  sketch.)  Its  original  Indian  name  was 
Bantam — one  of  the  few  cases  where  the  whites  have  im- 
proved upon  the  aboriginal  title.  The  village  is  an  active, 
pleasant  place,  occupying  cliiefly  two  broad  avenues  at 
right  angles,  and  boastmg,  like  most  New-England  towns, 
a  fine  park  or  "  green."  In  the  immediate  vicinity.  Mount 
Tom  (not  the  companion  of  Holyoke)  rises  700  feet,  and 
one  of  the  largest  lakes  in  the  State  affords  good  fishing 
and  rowing. 

Before  we  betake  ourselves  to  the  river-rail  route,  let 
us  stop  a  moment  at  Winsted,  the  northern  terminus  of 
the  Naugatuck  Railway.  It  hardly  boasts  special  attrac-^ 
tions.  The  railway  terminus  is  at  the  western  end  of  the 
town,  in  what  is  called  West-Winsted.  On  the  summit  of 
the  hill,  behind  the  Beardsley  House,  (principal  hotel, 
wh3re  one  going  to  Canaan  will  stay  over  night ;  terms, 
$2.50  or  $3  per  day,)  there  is  a  charming  lake  of  clear 
and  deep  waters.  The  surrounding  country  does  not 
tempt  others  than  disciples  of  Izaak  Walton. 

Below  Litchfield,  and  quite  continuously  to  Derby,  the 
railway  traverses  the  banks  of  the  river,  amid  the  most  ro- 
mantic scenery.  Cramped  into  a  narrower  channel  by  the 
frowning  hills  which  shut  it  in  on  every  side,  and  dispute 


154 


LAKES,   EIVERS,  AND  MOUNTAINS. 


ml 


its  passage  with  a  Yankee  pertinacity,  the  Naugatuck  foams 
and  leaps  and  meanders  in  its  zeal  to  reach  the  open  ba- 
sin below.  There  can  be  no  more  channing  scenery  than 
that  here  afforded — where  a  railway,  not  important  enough 
to  undertake  the  removing  of  mountains  and  the  filling 
up  of  valleys,  simply  affords  us  an  opportunity  to  watch 
all  along  a  rapid  ride  the  changing  aspects  of  river  and 
woodland  scenery. 

Waterbury  marks  the  half  of  our  ride,  about  80  miles 
from  either  terminus.  There  is  absolutely  nothing  natu- 
ral to  see  here,  but  a  great  deal  of  industry.  Most  of  the 
15,000  inhabitants  are  in  one  way  or  another  connected 
with  the  many  manufactories  in  the  city.  Waterbury  is 
the  only  city  in  the  State,  west  of  New-Haven,  except 
Bridgeport.  Hotels — Adams  Hotel,  (near  the  depot,  second- 
class,)  and  Scovill  House,  a  quarter-mile  distant.  The  Pro- 
vidence, Hartford,  and  Fishkill  Railway  has  had  its  ter- 
minus here  for  some  years,  but  hopes  ultimately  to  reach 
the  Hudson  River  at  Fishkill,  j,nd  cross  it  by  a  now  pro- 
spective bridge.    (See  page  27.) 

The  Naugatuck  River  falls  into  the  Housatonic  at 
Perby,  18  miles  below  Waterbury,  14  from  Bridgeport. 
The  main  river  here  swells  to  nearly  a  mile  in  width,  and 
presents  a  very  beautiful  view.  Contracts  have  been 
made  for  a  stone  bridge  across  the  Naugatuck  at  the  nar- 
rows, in  Derby.  Its  complete  cost  will  be  about  $20,000. 
The  Housatonic  Railway  does  not  come  within  5  or  6  miles 
of  the  river  which  names  it,  at  this  point.  Beyond  this, 
the  Naugatuck  Railway  folk  vs  the  shore  of  the  Housa- 
tonic (which  is  navigable  up  to  Derby  from  the  Soimd) 
until  it  crosses  at  Stratford ;  from  there  to  Bridgeport  the 
cars  run  upon  the  track  of  the  New- York  and  New-Haven 
Company,  and  our  especial  attention  ceases. 


LAKES,  RIVERS,  AND  MOUNTAINS. 


155 


WOODSTOCK,    CT. 

Woodstock  is  situated  in  Windham  county,  in  the  north- 
eastern corner  of  tlie  State  of  Connecticut,  surrounded  by 
a  country  of  pfreat  beauty,  embracing  within  its  reach  the 
varied  attractions  of  lake  and  woodland,  hill  and  dale, 
beautiful  drives,  etc.  It  is  really  one  of  the  most  delight- 
ful retreats  in  Nevv-England.  Overlooking  a  valley 
stretching  for  80  miles  north  and  south,  the  view  from 
the  piazza  of  the  hotel  is  one  of  exquisite  loveliness.  A 
mile  away  is  Woodstock  Lake,  skirted  by  primeval  woods 
and  abounding  in  fish.  Henry  Ward  Beecher,  our  au- 
thority for  Connecticut  scenery,  says :  "  Its  like  I  do  not 
know  anywhere.  It  is  a  miniature  Mount  Holyoke  ;  and 
its  prospect,  the  Connecticut  Valley  in  miniature." 

Hotel. — Elmwood  Hall,  Mr.  Amasa  Chandler,  proprie- 
tor, is  open  from  June  15th  to  the  close  of  the  season.  It 
has  a  fine  "  common"  in  front  of  the  house,  and  a  park  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  street.  Visitors  to  this  place  leave 
the  Norwich  and  Worcester  Railway  at  Putnam.  Car- 
riages from  the  hotel  wait  at  every  train,  and  a  mail-coach 
leaves  Putnam  for  Woodstock,  daily,  at  5  o'clock  P.M. 

MANSFIELB   AND   MEMFHBEMAOOG. 

Mount  Mansfield,  the  loftiest  (4469  feet)  of  the  Green 
Hills,  is  15  miles  from  Waterbury  Station.  It  is  easily 
reached  from  the  village  of  Underhill  Centre  on  the  north, 
or  yet  more  easily  from  the  pleasant  village  of  Stowe  on 
the  south,  both  of  which  points  may  be  reached  from  the 
Vermont  Central  road  —  Underhill  from  Jonesville  Sta- 
tion, and  Stowe  from  Waterbury.  Stages  leave  Water- 
bury  for  Stowe  (10  miles)  on  arrival  of  trains.  Mansfield 
is  20  miles  from  Burlington.  Stowe  is  a  pretty  country 
village,  lying  in  the  valley  between  Mansfield  and  Wor- 


150 


LAKES,   HI  VERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS, 


ccster  Mountains,  and  one  of  tlio  loveliest  possible  spots  for 
a  summer  rcHidenco  among  the  mountains.  The  walks 
and  drives  in  the  vicinity  are  delijflitful.  Sunset  Hill,  cast 
of  tlie  hotel,  commands  a  fine  view  of  Mansfield  as  well  as 
the  surrounding  country.  The  principal  drives  are:  to 
Mount  ^Mansfield,  8  miles ;  Smuffgler's  Notch,  8  miles — 
one  of  the  most  wild  and  romantic  places  in  the  country  ; 
Bingham's  Falls,  5  miles;  Moss  Glen  Falls,  3i^  miles; 
Gold  Brook,  3  miles  ;  West  Hill,  2  miles  ;  Morrisvillo  Falls, 
8  miles  ;  Johnson  Falls,  13  miles  ;  Nebraska,  0  milob.  The 
chief  hotel  at  Stowo  is  the  Mount  Mansfield  House,  kept  by 
Mr.  Leonard  Lovo.  Rooms  for  400  guests ;  billiard-tables, 
bowling-alley,  and  a  fine  livery  stable.  The  summit  of  the 
mountain  is  8  miles  distant,  as  stated  above  ;  but  the  hotel 
accommodations  hero  make  Stowo  the  favorite  point  of  de- 
parture. The  Summit  House,  on  the  top  of  Mansfield,  can 
accommodate  100  guests.  The  terms  at  each  house  (same 
proprietors)  are  $3.50  per  day. 

Before  reaching  the  village  of  Stowo,  or  from  the  ob- 
ser^^atory  of  the  Mansfield  Hotel,  the  tourist  can  get  a  good 
view  of  Mount  Mansfield.  The  outline  of  the  summit 
resembles  human  features.  Old  Mansfield,  as  is  imagined, 
is  in  a  reclining  posture,  his  face  turned  upward.  The 
north  peak  represents  the  chin,  the  middle  the  nose,  and 
the  southern  the  forehead.  This  mountain  is  the  highest 
in  Vermont,  and  from  it  can  be  seen  elevations  in  every 
county  in  the  State.  The  chin  is  4348  feet  above  the  sea, 
3800  feet  above  the  village  of  Stowe,  and  340  above  the 
nose.    The  nose  is  IGO  feet  above  the  forehead. 

The  view  from  the  summit  is  very  extensive.  The 
Winooski  is  hardly  seen,  except  here  and  there,  resem- 
bling the  smallest  possible  rivulet.  On  either  hand,  as 
far  as  you  can  see,  the  eye  rests  upon  hundreds  of  mountain 


ol 


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f 

1 


LAKES,   UIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


157 


peaks,  Btnitcliing  away  into  tlio  thick,  dark  hazo  vliicli 
BurrouiulH  tlioin.  \\'e8t  lies  the  pfroat  valli^y  of  tho  Cham- 
plain,  and  still  boyond,  10  miles  distant,  is  tlio  lake  itselt', 
tho  wholo  h'njuftli  of  which  comes  under  tho  eyo.  A  few 
miles  from  its  western  shore  riso  tho  lofty  peaks  of  tlio 
famous  Adirondacks.  North  is  the  wid.e-spread  valley  of 
the  Saint  Lawrence ;  and  in  favorable  weather,  with  tho 
aid  of  the  glass,  steamtirs  can  bo  seen  upon  its  waters. 
Montreal  Mountain,  with  tho  city  (visible  only  in  the  best 
weather)  at  its  base.  Jay  Peak,  and  Owl's  Head,  the  latter 
•rising  from  the  west  bank  of  Lake  Memphremagog,  form 
prominent  features  in  tho  landscape.  In  tho  east,  Fran- 
conia  range  and  the  White  Mountains,  00  miles  distant, 
limit  the  vision,  while  the  intervening  space  is  covered 
with  numberless  hills  and  mountains.  South  can  be  seen 
Camel's  Hump,  Killington  Peak,  and  Ascutney. 

The  Valley  and  River  op  Winooski. — The  Winooski 
traverses  almost  tho  entire  breadth  of  Northern  Vermont. 
Rising  in  Caledonia  county,  its  course  is  generally  west- 
ward to  Lake  Champlain,  40  miles  from  which  it  passes 
through  Montpelier.  Some  of  its  valley  passages  are 
scenes  of  great  pastoral  beauty,  strongly  contrasted  with 
high  mountain  surroundings,  the  singularly-formed  peak 
of  Camel's  Hump  continually  showing  itself,  sometimes 
barely  peeping  over  intervening  ranges,  and  again — as 
near  the  middle  of  the  valley  stretch — coming  into  full 
display.  In  places,  the  Winooski  is  a  wild,  turbulent 
water,  dashing  over  stern  precipices  and  through  rugged 
defiles.  It  is  found  in  this  rough  mood  just  above  the  vil- 
lage of  Winooski,  a  few  miles  fron.  Burlington,  where  tho 
waters  rush  in  rapid  and  cascade  through  a  ravine  100 
feet  deep.  This  picture  is  favorably  seen  from  the  railway. 
Passing  on  into  the  open  valley  lands  which  succeed. 


If 

IS. 


.58 


LAKES,    EIVERS,   AND  M^'UNTAINS. 


Mount  Camel's  Hump  comes  finely  into  view,  as  the  cen- 
tral and  crowning  point  of  one  of  the  sweetest  pictures  of 
all  this  region.  This  is,  next  to  Mansfield,  the  highest 
of  all  the  Green  Mountain  peaks,  having  an  elevation  of 
4188  feet.  It  may  be  ascended,  without  much  diflSculty, 
from  any  side,  though  the  usual  point  of  leaving  the  rail- 
way is  at  Ridley's,  going  south  from  which  one  can  reach 
the  summit  of  Camel's  Hump,  6  miles  distant,  by  private 
teams.  A  good  carriage-road  has  been  constructed  3  miles 
up  the  mountain,  and  the  remainder  of  the  way  is  accom- 
plished on  horseback.  Not  far  from  the  summit  is  a  spring- 
of  excellent  water,  and  also  a  house  for  the  accommodation 
of  visitors.  The  view  from  the  summit  is  similar  to  that 
from  Mount  Mansfield.  The  height  above  the  sea  is  4083 
feet,  and  some  over  3800  above  Winooski  River.  The 
peculiar  outline  of  its  summit,  which  suggests  its  name, 
and  its  comparatively  isolated  position,  make  it  a  conspicu- 
ous object  for  many  miles  around.  The  mountain  is 
crowned  by  jagged,  barren  rocks,  and  the  imposing  scene 
which  the  lofty  heights  overlook  is  in  no  way  obstructed 
by  the  forest  vail,  which  often  disappoints  the  hopeful 
climber  of  forbidden  mountain-tops.  Bolton  Falls,  a  few 
miles  below  Waterbury,  affords  a  pleasant  excursion  from 
the  Hump.  The  high  bluffs  on  either  side  of  the  river 
were  evidently  once  united,  forming  a  natural  bridge. 
Through  it  the  river  has  finally  worn  a  deep  and  narrow 
channel.  Perpendicular  and  overhanging  rocks  form  the 
gorge,  while  huge  boulders,  piled  together,  nearly  bridge 
the  river  at  low  water.  Just  after  passing  the  falls,  the 
tourist  can  get  a  good  view  of  them  from  the  car- window, 
where  he  win  notice  the  foaming  stream  and  the  project- 
ing rocks  above. 
Lake  MEMPEHEMAGOG.^-Overshadowed  by  lofty  moun- 


% 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


159 


tain  peaks  wliicli  rise  io  the  height  of  nearly  3000  feet, 
and  bordered  by  dense  forests  and  grassy  slopes,  in  North- 
ern Vermont  and  the  Province  of  Quebec,  is  Lake  Mem- 
phremagog — "  the  Beautiful  Water."  In  general  appear- 
ance  it  resembles  Lake  lioricon  in  Northern  New- York.  It 
is  30  miles  long  and  2  wide,  and  lies  in  a  deep  and  narrow 
basin.  About  one  third  of  the  lake  is  in  Vermont  and  the  re- 
mainder in  Canada.  There  are  no  marshes  or  ponds  of  stag- 
nant water  along  its  banks,  and  its  rock-bound  shores'  and 
wooded  islands  give  it  a  picturesque  appearance.  Fed  by 
mountain  streams,  pure  and  cold,  it  is  the  home  of  the 
prince  of  the  finny  tribo,  the  speckled  trout,  which  hero 
attains  unusual  proportions.  It  is  no  uncommon  thing  to 
catch  those  that  weigh  from  10  to  15  pounds,  while  old 
fishermen,  who  are  posted  on  favorite  localities,  will  occa- 
sionally show  you  one  weighing  from  30  to  40.  The  best 
fishing  places  are  near  the  Mountain  House,  at  the  base  of 
Owls  Head,  where  the  water  is  the  coldest  and  deepest. 

The  principal  hotels  on  the  lake«are :  Memphremagog 
House,  Mr.  Lafayette  Buck,  proprietor,  at  Newport,  Ver- 
mont, south  end,  or  head,  of  the  lake ;  Mountain  House, 
Mr.  A.  Co  Jennings,  proprietor,  at  Owl's  Head,  (mountain,) 
12  miles  from  Newport ;  and  the  Parks  House,  a  new  hotel, 
at  Magog,  Quebec  Province,  at  the  head  of  the  Magog  River 
through  which  the  lake  waters  reach  the  Saint  Lawrence. 
The  terms  at  these  houses  will  not  be  found  as  high  as  at 
the  Newport  by  the  sea,  as  this  is  within  the  influence  of 
Vermont  moderation  and  hospitality.  The  Memphrema- 
gog is  the  largest  and  most  popular  of  the  three  hotels, 
accommodating  some  300  guests.  Terms,  $3.50  per  day, 
$21  for  one  and  $35  for  two  weeks.  It  stands  directly 
upon  the  bank  of  the  lake,  fronting  the  bridges  and  the 
railway,  as  well  as  the  steamboat  landing,  and  from  its 


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160 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


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ii; 


windows  and  broad  piazzas  an  excellent  view  of  the  lake, 
the  mountains,  and  the  surrounding  country,  is  to  be  had. 
The  view  of  the  lake  is  especially  fine,  embrpcing  various 
bays  and  promontories,  with  the  famous  Owl's  Head  in  the 
centre  of  the  picture,  and  Bear  Mountain  and  Mount  Ele- 
phantis  upon  either  hand.  The  merit  of  the  Mountain 
House  consists  in  its  contiguity  to  Owl'..  Head,  (see  below,) 
which  tourists  generally  wish  to  climb.  The  house  stands 
upon  the  shore  of  a  pleasant  bay  of  the  lake.  The  Parks 
House  is  located  nearest  to  Montreal,  (see  routes  below,) 
and  affords  a  fine  opportunity  for  becoming  familiar  with 
Canadian  towns,  people,  and  customs. 

Newport,  Vermont,  the  principal  and  only  important  town 
on  Lake  Memphremagog,  is  beautifully  situated  upon  a 
promontory  projecting  boldly  out  from  the  western  shore 
of  Lake  Memphremagog,  about  3  miles  from  its  head. 
This  promontory,  long  known  as  Pickerel  Point,  consists 
of  a  lofty  eminence  called  Prospect  Hill,  with  a  consider- 
able area  at  its  foot,  upon  which  the  village  is  built.  Its 
extremity  approaching  within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  the 
eastern  shore,  this  point  was  early  selected  as  the  proper 
locality  for  a  bridge,  and  for  many  years  the  village  was 
known  as  Lakebridge,  a  name  which  it  would  perhaps 
have  been  well  to  retain.  Six  years  ago,  Newport  num- 
bered but  ten  or  twelve  houses ;  now  it  is  a  large  vil- 
lage, containing  many  tasteful  residences,  both  of  citizens 
residing  permanently,  and  of  others  who  make  this  their 
summer  home.  Several  large  manufacturing  establish- 
ments give  life  to  the  place,  and  employment  to  its  inhabi- 
tants, while  numerous  stores  make  it  the  centre  of  local 
trade  for  a  large  section  of  the  surrounding  country.  Four 
bridges,  two  for  ordinary  travel  and  two  belonging  to  the 
Passumpsic  Railway,  cross  the  lake  here,  and  large  wharves 


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LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


161 


furnish  facilities  for  the  navigation  of  the  lake,  most  of 
which  centres  at  this  point,  the  bridges  preventing  steam- 
boats from  ascending  farther. 

The  fine  new  iron  steamboat  Lady  of  the  Lake  makes 
two  trips  daily  over  the  lake,  from  Newport,  7.30  a.m.  and 
1.15  P.M.  to  Magog,  returning  at  10.30  A.M.  and  4.30  P.M. 
There  is  a  great  number  of  interesting  points  on  the  route, 
which  will  be  agreeably  noted  by  the  captain  as  you  pass, 
and  therefore  do  not  need  mention  in  detail  here.  The 
chief  places  are  :  Mason's  Point  and  Cavern,  the  Mountain 
House  Wharf,  Skinner's  (Smugglers')  Cave,  Balance  Rock, 
Concert  Pond,  near  Mount  Elephantis;  Georgeville,  (20 
miles  from  Newport  and  7i  from  Owl's  Head,  and  having 
one  or  two  hotels ;)  Knowlton's  Landing,  (whence  stage  to 
Waterloo,  20  miles,  connecting  with  railway  for  Saint 
John's  and  Montreal ;)  and  Magog,  at  the  foot  of  the  lake. 
Near  Magog  is  Mount  Orford,  3300  feet  high,  the  most 
extensive  mountain  in  Quebec.  It  is  5  miles  from  Magog, 
and  a  carriage-road  has  been  constructed  to  its  summit. 

Next  to  the  enjoyment  of  the  lake  itself,  the  view  from 
the  summit  of  Owl's  Head  is  the  great  attraction  at  Mem- 
phremagog.  The  mountain  is  conical  in  shape,  and  3000 
feet  high.  Looking  south,  you  see  Clyde,  Barton,  and 
Black  Rivers,  Newport,  all  the  islands  on  the  lake,  and 
the  lake  itself  from  end  to  end.  To  the  north,  Durham's 
Point,  Dewey's  Point,  Knowlton  Bay,  the  Outlet,  Orford 
Mountain,  and  countless  other  objects.  To  the  east,  Sey- 
mour Lake,  Stanstead  Plain,  Rock  Island,  Salem  Pond, 
Charleston  Pond,  Derby  Centre,  Willoughby  Lake,  White 
Mountains,  Little  Magog,  Massawippee  Lake,  Georgeville, 
etc.  To  the  west,  the  continuation  of  the  Green  Mountain 
Range.  To  the  north-west,  the  Sugar  Loaf  and  Ridge 
Mountain,  Broom  Lake,  and  North  and  South  Troy.    In  a 


! 


Ir 


162 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND  MOUNTAINS. 


clear  day,  Montreal  can  be  distinctly  seen  in  the  north- 
west. 

The  tourist  from  New- York  City  will  start  from  Twenty- 
seventh  Street  depot  at  8  A.M.,  (best,)  or  3  or  8  P.M.,  and 
pass  througih  New-Haven,  Springfield,  Greenfield,  Bellows 
Falls,  White  River  Junction,  etc.      The  Bostonian  will  go 
by  Lawrence,  Manchester,  and  Concord,  to  White  River 
Junction,  unless  he  choose  to  take  the  less  direct  route  to 
Greenfield  or  Bellows  Falls,  where  he  will  strike  the  route 
of  New- York  passengers.     The  journey  by  rail  for  the 
whole  distance  to  the  lake  is  fine,  einbracing  much  of  the 
best  scenery  of  New -Hampshire  or  the  Connecticut  Valley, 
according  to  the  route  selected  ;  but  that  on  the  Passump- 
sic  Railway  is  the  best  of  all.    This  road,  from  White  River 
Junction,  continues  up  the  Connecticut  River,  crossing 
White  River  at  its  mouth,  and  passes  through  the  pictur- 
esque Passumpsic  Valley,  guarded  by  massive  hills  on  either 
side.     From  car- windows,  the  tourist  catches  glimpses  of 
the  sparkling  and  bubbling  brooks  as  the  train  speeds 
along ;   of  silvery  ponds  and  miniature  lakes ;   of  lofty 
mountain  peaks,  and  deep  valleys  and  glens  ;  and  of  rich 
and  expansive  meadows,  and  thrifty  Vermont  farms,  some 
of  which  sit  right  on  the  cap  of  the  hill.    After  leaving 
the  Passumpsic,  and  passing  the  summit  between  the 
waters  flowing  to  the  Sound  and  those  flowing  to  the 
Saint  Lawrence,  the  route  lies  through  the  lovely  Barton 
River  Valley,  until  it  reaches  the  lake.       ■       . 

The  distance  from  New- York  to  Newport,  Vermont,  is 
365  miles,  requiring  15  hours*  ride.  Through  fare,  $10.50. 
To  designate  the  route  a  little  more  fully,  we  may  say  : 
Leaving  Twenty-seventh  Street  depot  at  8  a.m.,  you  arrive 
at  the  Massasoit  House,  Springfield,  in  time  for  a  comfort- 
able and  capital  dinner ;  leaving  at  2  p.m.,  sup  and  sleep 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


163 


at  tlio  Island  House,  Bellows  Falls.  Leaving  at  11.45 
A.M.,  dine  at  White  River  Junction,  and  reach  the  Mem- 
phremagog  House,  at  Newport,  at  6.30  p.m.  This  method 
aflFords  a  complete  daylight  view  of  the  railway  scenery 
above  briefly  described. 


n 


-♦♦•- 


THE   MAINE   FOREST. 

The  most  interesting  route  for  the  tourist  in  Maine  to 
take  is  perhaps  that  which  leads  through  the  hills,  lakes, 
and  forests  of  the  north  ;  but  we  warn  him,  beforehand, 
that  it  will  not  be  one  of  ease.  Rugged  roads  and  scant 
physical  comforts  will  not  be  his  most  severe  trial ;  ^br,  in 
many  places,  he  will  not  find  road  or  inn  at  all,  but  must 
trudge  along  painfully  on  foot,  or  by  rude  skiff  over  the 
lakes,  and  trust  to  his  rifle  and  his  rod  to  supply  his 
larder. 

A  great  portion  of  the  State  is  yet  covered  by  dense  for- 
ests, the  utilization  of  which  is  the  chief  occupation  and 
support  of  its  inhabitants.  The  most  fertile  lands  lie  in 
the  central  southern  regions,  between  the  Penobscot  River 
on  the  east  and  the  Kennebec  on  the  west,  and  in  the  val- 
ley borders  of  other  waters.  The  leading  objects  of  inter- 
est to  tourists  are  the  mountain  ranges,  which  are  bold 
and  imposing — one  summit,  that  of  Katahdin,  having  an 
elevation  of  5385  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The 
lakes  are  numerous,  sometimes  of  great  extent,  and  often 
very  beautiful.  They  are  to  be  found  throughout  the 
State,  and  more  especially  among  the  mountains  in  the 
north.  Indeed,  it  is  estimated  that  one  tenth  part  of  the 
whole  area  of  Maine  is  covered  by  water.  The  rivers  are 
numerous  and  large,  and  present  everywhere  scenes  of 


n ! 


i:    * 


164 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND  MOUNTAIXS. 


great  and  varied  beauty.  Tlio  Atlantic  coast,  wliicli  occu- 
pies the  whole  southern  line  of  the  State,  is  the  finest  in 
the  Union,  in  its  remarkably  bold,  rocky  character,  and  in 
its  beautiful  harbors,  bays,  islands,  and  beaches.  The  sea- 
islands  of  Maine  are  over  400  in  number  ;  many  of  them 
are  very  large,  and  covered  by  fertile  and  inhabited  lands. 
The  climate,  though  marked  by  extremes,  both  of  heat 
and  cold,  is  yet  everywhere  most  healthful,  its  rigor  being 
materially  modified  by  the  proximity  of  the  ocean. 

In  these  wildest  regions  the  exploration  may  be  made 
with  great  satisfaction  by  a  party  well  provided  with  all 
needed  tent-equipage,  and  with  all  the  paraphernalia  of 
the  chase  ;  for  deer,  and  the  moose,  and  the  wild-fowl  are 
abundant  in  the  woods,  and  the  finest  fish  may  be  freely 
taken  in  the  waters.  Still,  he  may  traverse  most  of  the 
mountain-lands  and  lakes  by  the  roads  and  paths  of  the 
lumbermen,  who  have  invaded  all  the  region ;  and  he  may 
bivouac,  as  comfortably  as  should  content  an  orthodox  for- 
ester, in  the  humble  shanties  erected  by  the  hardy  back- 
woodsmen. The  mountains  of  Maine  are  broken  and  dis- 
tinct peaks.  A  range,  which  seems  to  be  an  irregular 
continuation  of  the  White  Hills  of  New-Hampshire,  ex- 
tends along  the  western  side  of  the  State  for  many  miles, 
and,  verginfif  toward  the  north-east,  terminates  in  Mars 
Hill.  This  chain  divides  the  waters  which  flow  north  into 
the  River  Saint  John  from  those  which  pass  southward  to 
the  Atlantic.  Many  beautiful  lakes  lie  within  this  territory. 
The  wilderness  of  Northern  New- York  (see  The  Adiron- 
DACKs)  has  many  features  in  common  with  the  northern 
mountain  and  lake  region  of  Maine. 


MOOSEHEAD  LAKE. 

Moosehead  Lake,  the  largest  in  Maine,  is  among  the 
northern  hills.    It  is  35  miles  long,  and,  at  one  point,  is  10 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   A^^D  MOUNTAINS. 


165 


miles  in  breadth,  though  near  the  centre  there  is  a  pass 
not  over  a  mile  across.  Its  waters  are  deep,  and  furnish 
ample  occupation  to  the  angler  in  their  stores  of  trout  and 
other  fish.  This  lake  may  be  traversed  in  the  steamboats 
employed  in  towing  lumber  to  the  Kennebec.  A  summer 
hotel  occupies  a  very  picturesque  site  upon  the  shore  at 
Greenville,  at  the  foot  of  the  lake.  The  Kineo  House, 
midway,  the  usual  stopping-place,  has  recently  been 
burned.  There  are  numerous  islands  on  the  Moosehead 
Lake,  some  of  which  are  of  great  interest.  On  the  west 
side,  Mount  Kineo  overhangs  the  water  at  an  elevation  of 
600  feet.  Its  summit  reveals  a  picture  of  forest  beauty 
well  worth  the  climbing  to  see.  The  roads  thither,  lying 
through  forest-land,  are  recesnarily  somewhat  rough  and 
lonely.  This  lake  is  the  source  of  the  great  Kennebec 
River,  by  whose  channels  (150  miles)  its  waters  reach  the 
sea.  The  readiest  approach  from  Boston  or  Portland  is 
via  Newport  or  Bangor,  on  the  Portland  and  Bangor  Rail- 
way. Stages  leave  both  these  stations  for  the  lake,  60  miles 
distant.    Fare  from  Bangor,  $4.50. 

There  is  a  steamer  over  the  lake  every  day,  passing  the 
finest  scenery  to  be  enjoyed  on  any  Maine  Lake.  This, 
too,  is  the  best  point  of  departure  for  excursions  in  birch 
canoes.  '  ' 


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THE  ANDBOSCOGGIN  LAKES.  .        v 

Lake  Umbagog  lies  partly  in  Maine  and  partly  in  New- 
Hampshire.  Its  length  is  about  12  miles,  and  its  breadth 
varies  from  1  to  5  miles.  The  outlet  of  Umbagog  and  the 
Margallaway  River  forms  the  Androscoggin. 

Androscoggin  and  Moosetocknoguntic  Lakes  are  in  the 
vicinity  of  Umbagog.  These  lakes  may  be  reached  by 
stage  from  Bethel,  which  is  on  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway, 


I': 


i!  [] 


160 


LAKES,   BITERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


and  noted  for  fishing.    Hotel  in  Upton.    J.  O.  Rich,  a 
famous  '▼uido  and  trapper,  lives  at  Upton, 

SEBAGO. 

Sobago  Pond,  a  beautiful  lake  12  miles  long*,  and  from 
7  to  8  miles  broad,  is  about  20  miles  from  Portland,  on  a 
route  thence  to  Conway  and  the  White  Mountains.  It  is 
connected  with  Portland  by  the  Cumberland  and  Oxford 
Canal. 

THE  OBAND  LAKES. 

The  best  place  for  salmon-trout  is  on  the  Grand  Lakes, 
in  Washington  county.  The  Rev.  Dr.  Bethune  came  here 
repeatedly.  Go  by  steamer  to  Calais  and  railway  to 
Princeton,  where  guides  and  information  may  be  ob- 
tained. Or,  go  by  stage  from  Bangor— a  very  tedious 
route. 

THE  MOUNTAINS. 

Sugar-Loaf  Mountain,  upon  the  Seboois  River,  north- 
east of  Mount  Katahdin,  is  nearly  2000  feet  high,  and 
from  its  summit  a  magnificent  view  is  commanded,  wliich 
embraces  some  50  mountain  peaks  and  nearly  a  score  of 
picturesque  lakes.  Bigelow,  Saddleback,  Squaw,  Bald, 
Gilead,  the  Speckled  Mountain,  the  Blue  Mountain,  and 
other  heights,  with  intervening  waterfalls  and  brooks,  are 
in  the  neighborhqod. 

Mount  Katahdin,  with  its  peaks  5385  feet  above  the 
sea,  is  the  loftiest  summit  in  the  State,  and  is  the  ultima 
thule,  at  present,  of  general  travel  in  this  direction.  The 
ordinary  access  is  in  stages  from  Bangor  over  the  Aroos- 
took road,  starting  in  tolerable  coaches  on  a  tolerable  road, 
and  changing  always  in  both  from  bad  to  worse.    A  plea- 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND  MOUNTAINS. 


167 


sant  routo  for  tho  adventurer  is  down  the  west  branch  of 
tho  Penobscot,  in  a  canco,  from  Moosohead  Lake.  "  Birch- 
es," as  tho  boats  are  called,  and  guides,  may  bo  procured 
at  tho  foot  of  Mooschead,  or  at  tho  house,  near  tho  centre 
of  tho  lake.  By  this  approach,  Katahdin  is  seen  in  much 
finer  outlines  than  from  tho  eastward. 

THE  VALLEY  OF   THE   HOUSATONIG. 

Henry  Ward  Beechcr  says,  in  his  Star  Papers  :  "  Of  all 
the  railroads  near  New- York,  none  can  compare  for  beauty 
of  scenery  with  tho  Housatonlc  from  Newtown  up  to  Pitts- 
field,  but  especially  from  New-Milford  to  Lenox." 

Let  this  bo  your  authority,  reader,  and  go  ;  but  see  to 
it,  first,  that  you  have  Mr.  Beecher's  tastes,  and  not  a  Sa- 
ratogian's  or  a  sea-bather's.  To  the  question,  "  What  do 
you  do  for  amusement  ?"  in  a  summering  by  the  Housa- 
tonlc, he  replies :  "  We  do  not  receive  company,  or  make 
calls,  or  ride  about  among  a  caravan  of  dandy  vehicles,  or 
*  go  with  the  multitude'  in  a-swimming,  or  any  thing  else 
that  implies  excitement  or  company.  We  have  a  select 
few  here,  to  whom  quiet  is  enjoyment.  We  look  at  the 
picture-gallery  of  God  in  the  heavens,  with  never  two 
days'  pictures  alike ;  we  sit  down  with  our  books  on  the 
brow  of  the  breezy  hill,  under  an  old  chestnut  tree,  ard 
read — sometimes  the  book,  sometimes  the  landscape,  and 
sometimes  the  highland  clouds  ;  we  wait  till  the  evening 
sun  begins  to  emit  rose-colored  light,  and  then  we  take 
rides  along  the  edges  of  woods,  upon  unfrequented  roads, 
across  suspicious  bridges,  along  forest-paths  leading  no 
one  knows  where,  and  coming  out  just  at  the  very  spot  we 
did  not  expect.  .  .  .  But  on  other  days  we  vary  the 
entertainment,  for  there  is  an  inexhaustible  variety." 

In  this  spirit,  the  rest-seeker  from  the  great  city  will 


103 


LAKES,   RIVEUS,    AND   MOUNTAINS. 


h 


thank  Ood  for  tlio  ITousatonic  Vnlloy,  coming  onco  nnd 
again.    Are  you  ready,  now,  to  go  ? 

Start,  tlien,  by  the  cleanest  place  of  departure  from  Now- 
York,  the  Twenty-seventh  Street  depot,  by  the  Ncw-IIaven 
lino.  Your  fare  to  Bridgeport,  where  you  leave  the  trunk 
lino  and  change  to  tho  Ilousatonic  Railway,  is  $1.70 — un- 
less you  choose  to  take  tho  Bridgeport  steamboat,  from 
Pier  85,  East  Rivor,  and  then  it  will  be  $1  only,  or  even 
less.  Tlio  Ilousatonic  road  will  want  3  cents  per  milo  for 
any  distance  short  of  its  northern  terminus,  at  Pittsfield, 
Mass.,  but  will  convey  you  the  whole  of  those  110  miles 
for  |3  ;  and  as  the  Harlem  Railway  also  tickets  passengers 
to  Pittsfield,  (by  Chatham  Four  Corners  and  tho  Western 
Railway,)  the  through  faro  from  New- York  City  is  but 
$3.90  on  either  road.  The  best  time  to  leave  the  city  i'S  8 
A.M.,  connecting  at  Bridgeport  for  Pittsfield  at  10.30  ;  tli3 
train  reaches  Pittsfield  at  3.50  p.m.  ;  the  ride  is  a  long, 
slow  one,  but  not  tedious  to  any  one  who  enjoys  comfort- 
able, almost  dustless  cars,  polite  conductors,  and  unceasing 
beauty  of  scenery.  There  is  also  an  afternoon  train,  which 
leaves  New- York  at  3  p.m.,  reaching  Pittsfield  at  11  p.m. 

The  Ilousatonic  River,  whose  banks  the  railway  of  its 
own  name  follows  from  New-Milford  to  Pittsfield,  near  its 
head-waters,  rises  among  the  Taconic  Mountains,  (the 
"Berkshire  Hills,"  as  the  natives  fondly  call  them,)  in 
North-western  Massachusetts.  It  flows  almost  due  south 
as  far  as  the  lower  border  of  Litchfield  county,  Connecti- 
cut, bends  greatly  to  the  east,  and  reaches  Long  Island 
g'ound  at  Stratford,  nearly  20  miles  east  of  the  point  where 
a  straight  course  would  have  terminated.  The  Naugatuck 
Railway  follows  its  shore -line  as  far  as  Derby,  where  navi- 
gation ends ;  thence  the  road  sets  itself  a  hard  task  in 
chasing  the  nimble  Naugatuck,  (see  sketch  of  the  Nauga- 


LAKES,    niVEIiS,    AXD    MOUNTAINS. 


ICO 


TUCK  Vatj.et.)  Tlio  ITonsatonic  botvvoon  Stratford  nnd 
Derby  is  ii  broad,  beautiful  Btroam,  ratbor  maintaining  tbo 
dipfiu.y  of  navipablo  water,  liowtivor,  to  tho  doirimont  of 
its  scon(»ry ;  and  tho  railway,  wb(;thor  approciatinj?  this 
fact  or  Icil  away  by  tbo  irresistiblo  attractions  of  Nowtown, 
dticlimoH  to  souk  its  aci][uamtanco  for  tho  first  30  miles  of 
Us  rails. 

Bridgeport,  68  miles  from  New-York  City,  is  tho  south- 
ern torminus — our  starting-point — of  tho  Naugatuck  and 
Housatonic  Ilailwa3'S.  Any  one  particularly  interested  iin 
BO  wing-machine  factories  or  clam-bakes  will  stop  here  and 
visit  tho  former — a  multitude— and  go  boating  for  tlio 
latter  ;  or  if  one  wishes  to  see  a  pretty  ridge  of  city  coun- 
try-seats, ho  will  go  up  the  "  Golden  Hill,"  back  of  tho 
depot,  and  see  that  of  which  Bridgeport  is  proud.  Other- 
wise we  will  start  at  once.  There  is  a  mediocre  restaurant 
In  the  depot,  at  which  it  is  possible  to  eat  if  one  must.  A 
good  dinner,  however,  waits  at  Kent  Station,  48  miles  up, 
at  12.53  o'clock  noon. 

This  village  of  Kent,  by  the  way — for  we  shall  hardly 
need  to  delay  for  the  brook-side,  loaf-covered  ride  below, 
nor  the  long-awaited  rippling  of  the  river  near  New-Mil- 
ford — is  a  very  queer,  quiet  place.  President  Woolsey,  of 
Yale  University,  spends  his  summers  here,  among  the 
Scaghticoke  Indians,  or  what  few  are  left  of  them,  on  the 
banks  of  the  Housatonic.  Kent  Plains  are  very  pretty, 
and  so  quiet  1  During  tho  war  most  of  the  men  went  to 
the  front,  and  there  was  a  period  when,  if  a  horse  cast  a 
shoe,  he  must  go  to  the  next  village  for  help,  for  there  was 
no  blacksmith  in  Kent  I  The  river  all  through  the  village 
is  charming ;  there  are  two  pretty  lakelets,  called  respec- 
tively by  the  names  of  Hatch  and  Swift,  both  visible  from 
the  railway  ;  and,  best  of  all,  there  is,  near  the  Orthodox 


I 


170 


LAKES,   EIVEES,   AND  MOUNTAIXS. 


;!! 


Hi 


church,  a  hill,  which  rises  sheer  from  the  Plains  1000  feet, 
and  at  the  summit  is  Spectacle  Pond — a  couple  of  oval 
sheets  of  black  water,  connected  by  a  strait,  just  as  the 
name  imports.  You  will  never  have  a  finer  view  either, 
that  may  with  strictness  be  called  a  "mountain-view," 
than  from  the  height  overlooking  this  double  lake.  Look- 
ing to  the  west,  you  may  behold  five  closely-placed  ranges 
of  mountains,  spread  out  like  the  fingers  of  one's  hand, 
with  not  space  enough  between  to  afford  ariy  relief  from 
the  lofty  scene  ;  the  fifth  range  are  the  Catskills,  of  New- 
York,  60  miles  distant.  Then,  descending  and  crossing 
the  river — magnificent  when  swollen — we  have  varied  op- 
portunity for  delight  in  very  Wales-like  scenery  of  abrupt 
mountain-sides,  rapid  water,  and  rocky  banks. 

Mr.  Beecher's  Star  Papers  are  full  of  loving  reminis- 
cences of  all  this  region ;  for  we  are  now  in  the  vicinity 
(Litchfield,  in  the  county  of  which  is  Kent)  of  his  birth  ; 
and  we  can  not  do  better  than  to  quote  his  words,  with 
such  added  notes  as  may  make  random  letters  available 
for  a  tourist.    The  parentheses  shall  be  our  own : 

"If  one  has  not  leisure  for  detailed  explorations,  and 
can  spend  but  a  week,  let  him  begin,  say  at  Sharon  or  Sa- 
lisbury, both  in  Connecticut  and  both  accessible  (Sharon 
Station)  from  the  Harlem  Railroad,  (or  from  Canaan,  73 
miles  from  Bridgeport,  on  the  Housatonic.)  On  either 
side,  to  the  east  and  to  the  west,  ever-varying  mountain- 
forms  frame  the  horizon.  There  is  a  constant  succession 
of  hills  swelling  into  mountains,  and  of  mountains  flowing 
down  into  hills.  The  hues  of  green  in  trees,  in  grasses, 
and  in  various  harvests,  are  endlessly  contrasted.  There 
are  no  forests  so  beautiful  as  those  made  up  of  both  ever- 
green and  deciduous  trees.  At  Salisbury,  you  come  under 
the  shadow  of  the  Taconic  range.    Here  you  may  well 


LAKES,   EIVERS,   AND  MOUNTAINS. 


171 


spend  a  week,  (a  good  hotel  for  families  will  help  you  to 
decide,)  for  the  sake  of  the  rides  and  the  objects  of  curiosi- 
ty.   Four  miles  to  the  east  are  the  Falls  of  the  Housatonic, 
called  Canaan  Falls,  (railway  station,  Canaan,  where  stage 
connects,  15  miles,  with  Winsted,  on  the  Naugatuck  Rail- 
way,) very  beautiful,  and  worthy  of  much  longer  study 
than  they  usually  get.    Prospect  Hill,  not  far  from  Falls 
Village,  (67  miles  up,)  affords  altogether  the  most  beauti- 
ful view  of  any  of  the  many  peaks  with  which  this  neigh- 
borhood abounds.     Many  mountain-tops  of  far  greater 
celebrity  afford  less  various  and  beautiful  views.    Near  to 
it  is  the  Wolf's  Den,  a  savage  cleft  in  the  rocks,  through 
which  you  grope  as  if  you  had  forsaken  light  and  hope 
forever.    On  the  west  of  Salisbury  you  ascend  Mount  Riga 
to  Bald  Peak,  thence  to  Brace  Mountain,  thence  to  the 
Dome,  thence  to  that  grand  ravine  and  its  wild  water, 
Bash-Bish — a  ride,  in  all,  of  about  18  miles,  and  wholly 
along  the  mountain-bowl.     On  the  eastern  side  of  this 
range,  and  about  4  miles  from  Norton's  House,  in  Salis- 
bury, where  you  will,  of  course,  put  up,  is  Sage's  Ravine, 
which  is  the  antithesis  of  Bash-Bish.    Sage's  Ravine,  not 
without  grandeur,  has  its  principal  attractions  in  its  beau- 
ty ;  Bash-Bish,  far  from  destitute  of  beauty,  is  yet  most  re- 
markable for  grandeur.    I  would  willingly  make  the  jour- 
ney once  a  month  from  New- York  to  see  either  of  them. 
Just  beyond  Sage's  Ravine,  very  beautiful  falls  may  be 
seen  after  heavy  rains,  which  have  been  named  Norton's 
Falls.    Besides  these  and  other  mountain  scenery,  there 
are  the  Twin  Lakes  on  the  north  of  Salisbury,  and  the  two 
lakes  on  the  south,  around  which  the  rides  are  extremely 
beautiful.    But  they  should  always  be  afternoon  rides ;  for 
these  discreet  lakes  do  not  choose  to  give  out  their  full 
charms  except  at  about  an  hour  before  sunset.    The  rides 


i.' 


172 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   M0UI5 TAINS. 


\l 


in  all  this  neighborhood  are  very  fine,  and  a  week  at  Sails- 
bury,  if  the  weather  be  fine  and  your  disposition  reason- 
able, will  be  apt  to  tompt  you  back  again  and  again. 

"From  Salisbury  to  Williamstown,  and  then  to  Ben- 
nington, in  Vermont,  there  stretches  a  country  of  valleys, 
lakes,  and  mountains  that  is  yet  to  be  as  celebrated  as  the 
lake-district  of  England  and  the  hill-country  of  Palestine. 
"  From  Salisbury  to  Great  Barrington,  the  road  lies  along 
the  base  of  the  mountains,  and,  indeed,  is  called  the  under- 
mountain  road.    Great  Barrington  is  one  of  those  places 
which  one  never  enters  without  wishing  never  to  leave. 
It  rests  beneath  the  branches  of  great  numbers  of  the  state- 
liest elms.  It  is  a  place  to  be  desired  as  a  summer  residence." 
West  of  Great  Barrington,  4  miles  by  stage,  (or  6  miles 
by  stage  from  Hillsdale,  on  the  Harlem  Railway,)  is  South- 
Egremont,  in  Berkshire  county.    Here  there  is  a  delight- 
ful summer  hotel,  the  Mount  Everett  House,  Mr.  John 
Miller,  proprietor,  capable  of  accommodating  50  guests 
from  June  1st  to  November  1st,    The  mountain-scenery, 
the  quiet  village  with  its  excellent  roads,  the  fine  trout- 
streams,  and  the  luxurious  table  which  the  private  farm 
and  garden  afford  the  hotel,  render  the  place  a  delightful 
residence  for  the  warm  weather. 

"  Next  to  the  north  (of  Great  Barrington)  is  Stockbridge, 
famed  for  its  meadow-elms,  for  the  picturesque  beauty  ad- 
jacent, for  the  quiet  beauty  of  a  village  which  sleeps  along 
a  level  plain  just  under  the  rim  of  hills.  If  you  wish  to 
be  filled  and  satisfied  with  the  serenest  delight,  ride  to  the 
summit  of  this  encircling  hill-ridge,  in  a  summer's  after- 
noon, while  the  sun  is  but  an  hour  high.  The  Housatonic 
winds,  in  great  circuits,  all  through  the  valley,  carrying 
willows  and  alders  with  it  wherever  it  goes.  The  horizon 
on  every  side  is  piled  and  terraced  with  mountains.    Ab- 


LAKES,    RIVERS,    AND   MOUNTAINS. 


173 


rupt  and  isolated  mountains  bolt  up  here  and  there  over 
the  whole  stretch  of  plain,  covered  with  evergreens.  Upon 
the  northern  ridge  lived  the  worthy  Dr.  West,  known  and 
honored  among  New-England  theologians.  It  is  but  re- 
cently that  his  old  house  was  demolished.  And  this  very 
spot  we  came  near  purchasing  for  a  summer  home." 

This  spot,  which  Mr.  Beecher  so  admired  and  desired, 
has  become  the  summer  residence  of  Rev.  Henry  M.  Field, 
D.D.,  of  the  Eoangelist ;  and  when  the  eminent  Scotch  di- 
vine, Dr.  James  McCosh,  was  in  this  country,  in  1866,  he 
spent  a  week  with  his  friend  Robert  Carter,  the  New- York 
publisher,  in  this  neighborhood,  and  several  times  visited 
Dr.  Field,  and  used  to  stand  on  the  piazza  and  look  off* 
upon  the  landscape  with  infinite  delight,  saying  that  the 
view  was  equal,  if  not  superior,  to  any  in  Scotland ;  a  re- 
mark which  he  explained  by  adding  that  Walter  Scott  al- 
ways said,  "  The  most  beautiful  scenery  in  Scotland  was 
between  the  Highlands  and  the  Lowlands,  where  the  rug- 
ged northern  peaks  melt  down  into  gentler  heights,  with 
soft,  winding  valleys  between" — and  such,  he  observed, 
was  exactly  the  character  of  the  scenery  here.  On  the 
same  hill  is  the  country-seat  of  David  Dudley  Field,  Esq., 
of  New- York,  who  is  the  largest  landholder  in  the  town, 
in  which  he  owns  about  1000  acres.  Between  the  dwell- 
ings of  the  two  brothers,  and  on  the  latter's  estate,  is  an 
ancient  house  of  much  historical  interest,  being  built  by 
the  General  Court  of  Massachusetts,  long  before  the  Revo- 
lution, for  the  missionary  Sargent,  who  came  here  to  preach 
the  Gospel  to  the  Indians,  Stockbridge  being  the  seat  of  a 
powerful  tribe.  The  Indian  bury  ing-ground  is  still  pointed 
out  a  little  west  of  the  Congregational  church.  In  the 
village  also  still  stands  the  house  in  which,  more  than  a 
hundred  years  ago,  Jonathan  Edwards  wrote  his  famous 


I 


III 


»' 


174 


LAKES.    RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


book  on  the  Freedom  of  the  Will.  At  another  point  in 
Stockbridge  is  the  Ice  Glen,  a  romantic  fissure  in  the  high 
rocks  overhanging  the  road,  where  parties  delight,  in  snm- 
luer,  to  find  a  store  of  ice  laid  up  in  Nature's  hidden  places. 

The  whole  beautiful  valley  stretches  away,  charmingly 
varied  by  the  meandering  Housatonic,  almost  as  far  as  the 
eye  can  reach,  with  the  white  houses  dotting  the  green 
fields  and  meadows  here  and  there,  and  the  brown  roads 
following  feebly  the  example  of  the  river.  A  sunset-scene 
once  enjoyed  here  may  not  soon  be  forgotten. 

Around  Stockbridge  are  many  charming  drives.  Every 
ascent  of  a  hill,  and  .almost  every  turn  in  the  road,  opens  a 
new  landscape  before  the  eye.  There  is  an  excellent  hotel, 
(Stockbridge  House,  Mr.  Heaton,  proprietor  $3  per  day,) 
which.is  usually  well  filled  with  refugees  from  the  arid  city. 

"  Going  north,  (6  miles,)  we  come  to  Lenox,  known  for 
the  singular  purity  and  exhilarating  effects  of  its  air  and 
for  the  beauty  of  its  mountain  scenery.  If  one  spends  July 
or  October  in  Lenox,  he  will  hardly  seek  another  home  for 
summer.  The  church  stands  upon  the  highest  point  in 
the  village,  and  if,  in  summer,  one  stands  in  the  door  and 
gazes  upon  the  vast  panorama,  he  might,  without  half  the 
Psalmist's  devotion,  prefer  to  stand  in  the  door  of  the  Lord's 
house  to  a  dwelling  in  tent,  tabernacle,  or  mansion.'*  Here 
is  the  burial-ground  in  which  Mrs.  Fanny  Kemble  Butler 
expressed  once  her  desire  to  rest  when  her  work  on  earth 
shall  be  over.  "  I  will  not  rise  to  trouble  any  one,"  said 
she,  "  if  they  will  let  me  sleep  there.  I  will  ask  only  to 
be  permitted,  once  in  a  while,  to  raise  my  head  and  look 
out  upon  this  glorious  scene  I" 

Mr.  Beecher's  words  are  sustained  by  the  great  throng 
of  Boston  fashionables  who  affect  Lenox,  almost  to  the  ex- 
clusion of  the  people  of  the  tov»^n.    For  three  months  of 


LAKES,    RIVERS,    AND   MOUNTAINS. 


ns 


Bummer  Lenox  is  a  very  crowded  resort.  It  shows  the  in- 
flux of  city  people  by  a  hotel  at  city  prices.  So,  too,  there 
are  many  who  delight  to  spend  their  resting-season  in  Lee. 
The  hotel  has  been  burnt,  and  is  not  yet  rebuilt.  Hotel 
terras  in  Lenox  are  $4  per  day, 

Pittsfield  is  the  northern  terminus  of  the  Housatonic 
Railway,  and  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  villages  in  all 
New-England.  Populaiioii,  about  11,000.  The  only  hotel 
at  present  is  the  American  House,  just  up  the  hill  from  the 
railway  station  ;  terms,  $3.50  per  day,  and  a  reduction  for 
permanent  board.  The  principal  buildings  of  importance 
are :  the  new  Roman  Catholic  cathedral,  the  finest  in 
Western  Massachusetts  ;  Maplewood  Seminary,  for  young 
ladies,  near  by ;  the  Berkshire  Medical  College,  at  the 
other  end  of  South  street,  (the  chief  avenue  ;)  and  Dr.  John 
Todd's  elegant  stone  church.  The  Pittsfield  Elm,  which 
was  and  is  not,  was  one  of  the  finest  and  one  of  the  famous 
trees  of  the  country.  It  stood  in  the  park  opposite  to 
which  is  the  Congregational  (Dr.  Todd's)  church.  Its  re- 
markable height,  138  feet,  was  enhanced  by  the  entire 
lack  of  limbs  for  the  first  90  feet.  Under  this  tree  Ethan 
Allen  mustered  many  of  his  "  boys"  who  marched  on  Ti- 
conderoga  during  the  Revolution.  When  the  old  relic 
had  become  so  decayed  as  to  necessitate  its  destruction, 
July  24th,  1864,  it  was  esteemed  a  general  calamity, 
and  specimens  of  the  wood  are  yet  exposed  for  sale  at  Mr. 
Burnell's  news-store,  as  precious  tokens  of  past  glory.  The 
concentric  rings  showed  the  Old  Elm  to  be  340  years  old. 

The  drives  about  Pittsfield  are  charming  in  all  direc- 
tions, nature  and  art  having  combined  to  make  the  roads 
delightfully  smooth.  Particularly  we  commend  the  rides 
to  Williamstown,  20  miles ;  to  the  Shaker  Village,  (Leba- 
non Springs,)  in  New- York,  about  15  miles;  but,  above 


i\ 


176 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND  MOUNTAINS. 


all,  stop  on  the  latter  road  at  Lanesboro  Pond.  This  ex- 
quisite  little  sheet  of  water  is  nearly  the  head- water  of  the 
Ilousatonic,  and  the  views  about  it,  particularly  that  of 
old  Greylock  Mountain  and  its  twin  peak,  Saddle-Back, 
(see  WiLLiAMSTOWN,)  are  worth  studying  for  a  day  at 
least.  In  the  village  is  a  pretty  little  pond,  called  Silver 
Lake,  and  a  mile  or  two  out  is  the  fine  trotting-park  of  the 
Berkshire  Pleasure  Association. 

North  of  Pittsfield  runs  the  Pittsfield  and  North-Adams 
Railway,  20  miles,  a  very  primitive,  uninviting  freight- 
road,  but  passing  through  a  charming  country,  especially 
affording  some  fine  views  of  Greylock.  At  Adams  is  the  fine 
new  Wilson  House,  erected  and  named  for  Mr.  James  Wil- 
son, of  sewing-machine  distinction,  and  affording  first-class 
accommodations.  Terms,  about  $4  per  day.  This  is  an  ex 
cellent  point  of  departure  for  the  places  described  in  the 
sketch  of  WiLLiAMSTOWN, which  place  is  but  5  miles  distant. 

Cummington  lies  in  the  heart  of  the  hills  which  form 
the  southern  continuation  of  the  Green  Mountain  range, 
and  embraces  some  of  the  most  picturesque  scenery  of 
Western  Massachusetts.  The  Westfield  River,  known  as 
the  Agawam  where  it  empties  into  the  Connecticut,  oppo- 
site Springfield,  winds  through  the  town  for  a  distance  of 
8  miles,  forming  a  deep  and  narrow  valley,  from  which 
the  hills  recede  at  a  height  of  300  or  400  feet,  in  ridges  or 
table-lands  of  wide  extent,  broken  into  varied  undulations 
by  small  brooks  and  rivulets.  A  fair  supply  of  trout  is 
found  in  these  lesser  streams,  and  the  visitor,  in  riding 
over  the  range  on  either  side  the  valley,  gains  many  bold, 
far-reaching,  and  inspiriting  views.  Cummington  is  chiefly 
noted  as  the  birthplace  of  the  poet  Bryant,  who  has  bought 
the  old  family  home,  (see  Flora's  Glen,  in  Williams- 
town  sketch.)    On  the  north  is  the  town  of  Plaii^field, 


!■' 


Taghkanic  Falls,  N.  T. 


,-^-"  i, 


.  .v^  -^«i 


yt^.^  ^.z::i 


LAKES,    RIVERS,    AND   MOUNTAINS. 


177 


•I' 


which  contains  the  old  homestead  of  Gerard  Halleck,  and 
is  known  as  the  place  where  Dr.  Kinjif,  the  missionary,  first 
began  his  studies.  On  the  south  is  the  town  of  Worthing- 
ton,  resting  on  a  beautiful  table-land,  and  noted  as  the 
birthplace  and  final  resting-place  of  Brigadier-General 
Price,  of  the  New- York  Volunteers. 

Cummington  is  reached  by  rail  via  Northampton  to 
Williamsburg,  thence  by  stage  12  miles  ;  or  by  Boston  and 
Albany  Railway  to  Hinsdale  or  Pittsfield,  and  thence  from 
the  former  place  by  stage  11  miles,  or  from  the  latter  by 
carriage  23  miles ;  or  by  rail  to  North- Adams,  and  by 
stage  to  Plainfield,  15  miles.  A  ride  over  the  mountain,  a 
spur  of  the  Hoosick  from  North- Adams  to  Cummington, 
24  miles,  presents  some  of  the  finest  views  in  Massachu- 
setts. Old  Greylock,  the  highest  point  in  the  State,  and 
the  valleys  of  the  branches  of  the  Hoosick,  one  stretching 
south  to  the  heart  of  Berkshire  and  the  other  running  far 
among  the  hills  of  Vermont,  lie  before  the  tourist  and  en- 
able him  to  take  in  at  a  glance  the  rich  beauty  of  the 
famed  Berkshire  hills.  Cummington  has  two  hotels,  and 
several  private  houses  where  board  can  be  obtained  at 
very  moderate  prices.  Mails  daily ;  nearest  telegraph 
station  at  Hinsdale,  11  miles. 


THE  SUSQUEHANNA  EIVEB. 

The  Susquehanna  is  the  largest  and  most  beautiful  of 
the  rivers  of  Pennsylvania,  traversing  as  it  does  its  entire 
breadth  from  north  to  south,  and  in  its  most  interesting 
and  most  important  regions.  It  lies  about  midway  be- 
tween the  centre  and  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  State, 
and  flows  in  a  zigzag  course,  now  south-east  and  now  south- 
west, and  so  on  over  and  over,  following  very  much  the 
windings  of  the  Delaware,  which  separates  the  State  from 


178 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND  MOUNTAINS. 


New- Jersey.  The  Pennsylvania  Canal  accompanies  it 
throughout  its  course  from  Wyoming  on  the  north  to  the 
Chesapeake  Bay  on  the  south.  All  the  great  railways 
intersect  or  approach  its  waters  at  some  point  or  other, 
and  the  richest  coal-lands  of  the  State  lie  contiguous  to  its 
banks.  The  Susquehanna,  in  its  main  branch,  rises  in 
Otsego  Lake,  in  the  east  central  part  of  New- York,  and 
pursues  a  very  tortuous  but  generally  south-west  course. 
This  Main,  or  North,  or  East  Branch,  as  it  is  severally 
called,  when  it  reaches  the  central  part  of  Pennsylvania, 
after  a  course  of  250  miles,  is  joined  at  Northumberland 
by  the  West  Branch,  200  miles  long,  which  flows  from  the 
declivities  of  the  AUeghanies.  The  course  of  this  arm  of 
the  river  is  nearly  eastward,  and,  like  the  North  Branch, 
through  a  country  abounding  with  coal  and  other  valuable 
l^roducts.  It  is  also  followed  by  a  canal  for  more  than  a 
hundred  miles  up.  The  route  of  the  Erie  Railway  is  upon 
or  near  the  banks  of  the  North  Branch  of  the  Susque- 
hanna in  Southern  New- York,  and  occasionally  across  the 
Pennsylvania  line  for  50  miles,  first  touching  the  river  near 
the  Cascade  Bridge,  nearly  200  miles  froru  New- York, 
passing  the  cities  of  Binghamton  and  Owego,  and  finally 
losing  sight  of  it  just  beyond  Barton,  250  miles  from  the 
metropolis.  The  Northern  Central  Railway  of  Pennsyl- 
vania is  along  its  banks  from  Williamsport  down  to 
Goldsborough,  106  miles,  below  -v^rhich  it  is  crossed  only, 
not  followed  by,  steam  civilization.  Nearly  the  whole  of  the 
Lackawanna  and  Bloomsburg  Railway  (only  excepting 
the  9  miles  from  Scranton  to  Pittston)  lies  along  the  East 
Branch  between  Pittston  and  Northumberland.  Nanti- 
coke  and  Shickshinny  are  on  this  route,  which  may  be 
reached  from  New- York  City  by  the  Morris  and  Essex 
Railway  to  Washington,  70  miles,  thence  to  Scranton,  77 


r 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


179 


miles  further.  Tho  entire  length  of  the  Susquehanna  is 
about  500  miles,  and  tho  country  which  it  traverses  is  of 
every  aspect,  from  tho  quiet  vale  or  cultivated  farm  to  the 
wildest  horrors  of  the  stern  mountain  pass.  The  region 
most  sought,  and  deservedly  so,  by  the  tourist  in  quest  of 
landscape  beauties,  is  that  around  and  below  the  Valley  of 
Wyoming.  (See  article  under  that  title.)  From  this 
point  down  many  miles  to  Northumberland,  where  the 
West-Branch  comes  in,  the  scenery  is  everywhere  striking- 
ly fine  ;  but  the  best  and  boldest  mountain  passes  extend 
from  5  to  10  miles  below  the  southern  outlet  of  Wyo- 
ming, around  Nanticoke  and  Shickshinny.  This  is  tho 
region  par  excellence  for  the  study  of  the  artist.  Portions, 
also,  of  the  West-Branch,  though  not  yet  very  much  visit- 
ed, are  remarkably  fine. 

THE  JTJNIATA  BIVEB. 

What  scenery  can  arrest  the  hasty,  longing  gaze  of  the 
railway  traveler  more  certainly  than  that  of  the  famed 
and  lovely  blue  Juniata  ?  Along  its  charming  banks  the 
Pennsylvania  Central  Railway  carries  its  passengers, 
often  at  a  terrible  altitude,  from  beyond  Huntingdon  to 
Duncannon,  where  it  joins  the  Susquehanna — 90  miles* 
ride.  It  rises  in  the  south  central  part  of  Pennsylvania, 
and,  flowing  eastward,  falls  into  the  Susquehanna  at  this 
point,  about  14  miles  above  Harrisburg.  The  landscape 
of  the  Junip.ta  is  in  the  highest  degree  picturesque,  and 
many  romantic  summer  haunts  will  be  found  among  its 
valleys ;  though  at  present  very  little  tarry  is  made  in  tho 
region,  from  its  attractions  being  little  known,  and  the 
comforts  of  the  traveler  being  as  yet  but  inadequately 
provided  for.  The  mountain  background,  as  we  look  con- 
tinually across  the  river  from  the  cars,  is  often  strikingly 


180  LAKES,    lllVKKS,    AND   MOUNTAINS. 


\xM  and  l)cautifiil.  The  Little  Juniata,  wliich,  with  tho 
FrankHtovvn  Branch,  forms  tlie  main  rivor,  is  a  stream  of 
wild,  romantic  beauty.  Tho  entire  length  of  tho  Juniata, 
includinji:  its  hranchcs,  Is  estimated  at  nearly  150  miles, 
and  its  (M\tiro  course  is  throuj?h  a  ref?ion  of  mountains  in 
which  iron  ore  is  abundant,  and  of  fertile  limestone  val- 
leys. Tho  Kaystown  Branch,  which  rises  In  tho  south- 
west part  of  Bedford  county,  enters  tho  Juniata  near 
Huntingdon. 

NORTH-CAROLINA. 

To  a  tourist  wishing  to  go  into  new  grounds,  tho  State 
of  North-Carolina  will  afford  an  interesting  field  for  six  or 
eight  summer  weeks.  Ho  need  not  bo  alarmed  on  the 
score  of  health.  West  of  Raleigh,  there  is  no  more  dan- 
ger than  in  any  part  of  the  State  of  New- York  in  any 
season  of  tho  year.  • 

We  shall  indicate  in  a  brief,  clear  way  the  course  ho 
may  steer,  and  point  out  tho  things  it  will  be  worth  while 
to  see. 

By  the  Annamcssex  route,  one  leaves  New- York  in  the 
evening  and  next  day  dines  in  Norfolk  ;  or  he  may  stop  at 
Fortress  Monroe  a  few  hours,  and  go  to  Norfolk  in  the  after- 
noon. Next  day  to  Weldon,  N.  C,  and  thence  to  Raleigh. 
Through  tickets  may  bo  had  to  Raleigh.  Stop  a  day  or 
two  in  this  beautiful  little  City  of  Oaks.  Mr.  Blair,  at 
the  Yarborough  House,  will  take  care  of  you.  Visit  the 
Capitol,  the  Institute  of  the  Blind,  and  the  Insane  Asylum. 
The  streets  are  delightfully  shaded,  and  there  are  pleasant 
drives  in  the  vicinity. 

Twenty-six  miles  west,  you  may  debark  at  Durham's 
and  find  a  "  daily  track"  which  will  carry  you  the  samo 
night  to  Chapel  Hiil,  the  seat  of  the  University  of  North- 


LAIvES,   KIVKRS,   AND   MOUNTAINS.  181 


Cftrollna,  a  boaiitifiil  villa<r(',  intcrcHting  on  account  of  its 
venerablo  inHtitution  of  loarnlnpf. 

You  return  to  the  railway,  and  j?o  wiht  71  niilcH  to 
Tlinrli  Point,  wlioro  a  Rta^o  moots  you  to  take  you  to  Sa- 
loni,  an  old  and  V(!ry  intorostinj?  town,  Ixdonj^inj?  to  tlio 
Moravians,  and  romindinj?  you  of  tlio  nic(T  kinds  of  (Jor- 
man  villanroa.  If  you  liavo  novor  boon  in  a  Moravian 
town,  you  will  do  woll  to  stop  a  day  and  call  upon  tho 
biHhop,  who  will  rocoivo  you  politely,  and  show  and  tell 
you  many  instructive  things  in  regard  to  tho  Unitas  Fra- 
trum. 

Go  from  Salem  to  tho  Pilot  Mountain,  by  hired  convey- 
ance, distanco  about  20  miles.  Tho  Pilot  lifts  itself, 
solitary  and  alone,  no  other  mountain  near,  about  3000 
feet  about  the  level  of  tho  sea.  Its  position  and  form, 
rather  than  its  h(Mght,  make  it  an  object  of  interest.  You 
have  fine  views  from  the  top.  As  you  travel  all  about  that 
region,  tho  Pilot  seems  always  in  view,  and  to  the  nomadic 
aborigines  of  the  country  it  was  such  a  guide  as  to  win 
for  itself  tho  name  it  bears. 

The  tourist  may  return  to  Salem  and  so  back  to  tho 
railway  ;  but,  if  conveyance  can  be  had  at  the  Pilot  Moun^ 
tain  to  Statesville,  it  will  bo  better.  If  you  go  back  to  Sar 
lem  and  thence  to  Lexington,  your  next  place  is  Salisbury. 
There  take  the  Western  North-Carolina  Railway  to  Mop- 
gantown,  passing  through  Statesville.  But,  if  you  have 
gone  by  private  conveyance  over  to  Statesville  from  tho 
Pilot,  there  take  ticket  to  Morgantown. 

Sixty  miles  of  staging  through  a  glorious  country 
bring  the  tourist  to  Ashoville.  Mark,  you  are  not  driving 
through  on  husiness.  It  is  for  pleasure  and  health  that  you 
go.  Take  it  along  reasonably,  but  keep  moving,  and  you 
will  grow  stronger  and  happier.    Asheville  is  a  central 


182 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


and  interesting  place  in  Western  North-Carolina.  Persons 
g(^  there  and  make  that  a  sort  of  headquarters.  Horses  and 
vehicles  can  be  had  there  to  go  in  any  direction.  There 
are  plenty  of  stopping-places  in  the  several  routes  above 
named  to  Asheville,  and  indeed,  all  through  tho  mountains 
the  stranger  will  meet  a  simple  but  cordial  hospitality ;  he 
will  often  find  elegance  and  refinement. 

In  Buncomoc  he  will  go  to  the  Sulphur  Springs,  5  miles 
west  of  Asheville  ,;  he  will  go  to  Pisgah,  N.  C,  20  miles 
south-west  of  Asheville ;  he  will  especially  go  to  the 
Black  Mountain,  "  grand,  gloomy,  and  peculiar,"  in  the 
summit  of  the  highest  point  of  which  rest  the  remains  of 
the  1p  e  Dr.  Mitchell,  the  martyr  to  science.  There  are 
many  interesting  peaks  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Blacik 
Mountain. 

There  is  an  indefinite  number  of  beautiful  streams  in 
Buncombe  county;  there  is  the  rugged  course  of  the 
French  Broad,  with  a  scenery  mocking  that  of  the  Rhine ; 
the  beautiful  Swannanoa  River,  and  many  lesser  mountain 
streams  that  afford  fine  trout-fishing. 

In  McDowell,  the  stranger  will  go  to  the  Sinville  Falls, 
and  to  a  nameless  cave  in  the  Blue  Ridge,  not  yet  fully 
explored. 

In  Burke,  he  will  go  to  the  Table  Rock.  In  Burke  and 
McDowell,  there  are  beautiful  mountain  streams.  The  sce- 
nery along  several  of  them,  especially  along  the  Sinville 
River,  is  grand. 

In  Rutherford  county,  he  will  go  to  Chimney  Rock  and 
thg  Falls  there.  The  Broad  River  (a  branch)  is  a  beauti- 
ful and  interesting  stream. 

In  Polk,  he  will  go  to  see  the  Tryon  Mountain ;  from  the 
south  face  of  this  there  is  one  of  the  handsomest  land- 
scape views  to  be  found  anywhere ;  to  the  east  and  south 
it  is  boundless. 


LAKES,   RIVErwS, 


AND   MOUNTAINS. 


183 


In  Henderson  county,  the  country  is  beautifully  undu- 
lating, and  portions  of  it,  near  the  summit  of  the  Blue 
Ridge,  are  elegantly  improved  by  gentlemen  of  wealth, 
who  have  summer  places  there.  The  celebrated  Bute 
Mountain  Gap  is  in  this  county.  At  many  points  in  this 
county  we  can  not  tell  where  we  cross  the  Blue  Ridge. 

The  county  of  Transylvania  is  the  most  beautiful  county 
in  the  State.  There  are  many  interesting  points  in  this 
county :  Table  Rock,  Caesar's  Head,  Falls  of  the  French 
Broad,  Falls  of  the  Davidson  River,  beautiful  and  clear 
streams,  sometimes  moving  on  slowly,  at  others  rushing 
furiously.  There  are  some  very  beautiful  farms,  pome  in 
a  high  state  of  cultivation,  in  this  county. 

In  Jackson  county,  he  will  go  to  see  the  Whiteside 
Mountain,  a  great  and  grand  curiosity. 

Macon,  Clay,  and  Cherokee  are  noted  for  tho  grandeur  of 
th.oir  mountains  and  the  beauty  o^  their  streams  ;  they  are 
highly  adapted  to  grazing  purposes,  and  in  many  places 
it  is  beyond  question  that  the  grape  culture  would  succeed. 
Whoever  goes  to  Macon,  should  see  Silas  McDowell,  Esq., 
an  old,  intelligent,  and  most  interesting  man.  He  knows 
much  of  the  mountains  ^nd  is  in  many  ways  interesting. 

Strangers  can  always  find  means  of  transportation  in 
the  mountains,  and  living  there  is  cheap.  Appetites  cost 
nothing  and  health  is  indigenous. 

One  c-^-n  go  from  New- York  to  Greenville,  Tenn.,  or 
Greenville,  S.  C,  by  rail.  Asheville  is  sixty  miles  from 
each  of  these  places,  same  distance  as  Morgantown,  N.  C. 
If  the  business  or  pleasuie  of  the  tourist  should  lead  him 
by  either  route,  he  will  have  a  good  time. 

All  we  are  able  to  do  for  North-Carolina  in  this  edition 
is  to  indicate  general  routes.  The  tourist  will  avail  him- 
self, of  course,  of  information  to  be  derived  from  intelli- 


t 


Kp™> 


184 


LAKES,    RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


gent  people  along  his  line  of  travel.  In  our  next  edition 
we  hope  to  bo  more  specific,  but  for  this  summer  what  we 
give  is  sufficient.  We  beg  to  urge  a  North-Carolina  trip 
as  new  and  fresh.  He  that  hath  "  done"  only  the  Adiron- 
dacks,  and  hath  not  explored  Western  North-Carolina,  is 
hardly  half  a  mountain  man. 


-•♦♦- 


CAVES. 

The  State  of  Kentucky,  in  the  United  States  of  America, 
boasts  the  largest  known  cave  in  the  world.  Nearly  all 
the  great  caves  are  in  limestone  rocks,  of  comparatively 
recent  date.  They  are  produced  by  the  action  of  the  water, 
which,  running  in  little  streams  through  the  strata,  and 
carrying  with  it  carbonic  acid  gas,  (by  which  limestone 
is  rendered  soluble,)  particles  of  the  rock  are  taken  up 
and  removed.  Thus  the  rock  is  hollowed  out  more  rapidly 
than  others  of  ia  softer  nature  are  excavated  by  any  mechan- 
ical action ;  and  the  work  goes  silently  and  steadily  on 
through  long  geological  periods,  until  subterranean  pas- 
sages of  wonderful  beauty  and  extent  are  formed. 

Comparatively  few  of  the  caves  in  this  country  have 
attracted  great  attention  from  tourists.  Even  the  T.i  in- 
moth  Cave  of  Kentucky — the  greatest  natural  woii  ier, 
after  Niagara  Falls,  commonly  known  in  America  until 
the  recent  "  across  the  Continent"  travel — ^lias  been  seen 
by  but  very  few  people,  and  can  hardly  claim  a  place  here 
on  any  score  but  that  of  its  neglected  magnificence.  Weir's 
Cave,  in  Augusta  county,  17  miles  north-east  of  Staunton, 
Va. ;  Big  Saltpetre  Cave,  in  Marion  county.  Mo. ;  and 
Howe's,  Ball's  and  other  caves  in  Schoharie  county,  N.  Y., 
have  never  attained  much  more  than  a  local  distinction. 


LAKES,    RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


185 


(The  last  named  of  these*  alone,  from  their  contiguity  to 
the  city  whence  our  routes  mainly  start,  are  described 
below.) 

THE   MAMMOTH  CAVE. 

Tourists  from  New- York  City,  going  to  the  Mammoth 
Cave,  have  an  abundant  if  not  bewildering  choice  of 
routes.  By  the  Erie  and  the  Atlantic  and  Great  Western 
Railways,  one  has  the  famous  broad-gauge  cars,  the  fine 
scenery  of  the  Upper  Susquehanna  and  the  Delaware,  and 
a  glimpse  at  the  Oil  Region.  By  the  Pennsylvania  Cen- 
tral, and  by  way  of  Zanesville  to  Cincinnati,  the  startling 
railway  ride  over  the  mountains,  and  the  way  through  the 
beautiful  rolling  country  of  Ohio,  afford  delightful  con- 
trasts. By  the  Camden  and  Amboy  monopoly,  and  the 
Baltimore  and  Ohio,  one  may  see  the  flattest  and  the  bold- 
est railway  riding  this  side  the  Rocky  Mountain  passes. 
And  so  you  may  take  your  choice  of  routes  to  Cincinnati. 
Regular  fare,  $22.40 ;  probably  lower  during  the  summer. 
From  Cincinnati  to  Louisville,  the  best  way  to  go  is  by 
steamboat,  leaving  at  5  or  6  p.m.,  and  reaching  Louisville 
in  the  early  morning.  Or,  if  one  chooses  to  see  this  part  of 
the  Ohio  River  by  day,  he  may  leave  Cincinnati  at  noon, 
and  reach  Louisville  in  about  12  hours;  so  that,  after  a 
half  night's  rest,  he  can  start  with  those  who  came  by  the- 
night  boat,  for  Nashville.  Fare,  $3.50,  includes  meals  and 
state-rooms.  The  tourist  leaves  Louisville  for  Cave  City, 
the  station  for  the  Cave,  on  the  Louisville  and  Nashville 
Railway,  about  7  o'clock,  and  reaches  the  "  city"  by  noon. 
Here  begins  the  series  of  absurdities,  impositions,  and 
annoyances,  which  Southern  hotel-keepers  and  their  fel- 
lows deem  necessary  to  the  securing  of  their  fortunes.  The 
stage  for  the  Cave  does  not  leave  Cave  City  until  2  p.m.  ; 
meanwhile,  dine  at  the  Cave  City  Hotel ;  $4  per  day.   The 


186 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


I; 
II       \ 


stage-journey  is  8  miles,  fare  $2;  but  as  tlie  proprietor 
seems  to  have  a  doubt  of  your  safe  return,  he  insists  upon 
payment  of  $4,  which  entitles  you  to  a  return.  The  ride 
over  to  the  Cave  is  through  a  very  picturesque  country  ; 
and  you  may  as  well  enjoy  it,  for  you  can  not  see  the  great 
phenomenon  until  morning.  Whether  the  proj^rietor  of 
the  Mammoth  Cave  Hotel  thinks  people  never  visit  the 
l^lace  twice,  we  know  not ;  but  all  his  plans  seem  arranged 
on  that  basis.  There  are  no  guides  to  be  had  until  morn- 
ing ;  and  of  course  no  one  will  forget  the  many  examples 
of  people  lost  in  the  labyrinths  of  the  Cave,  to  venture  in 
alone.  So  you  will  stay  at  the  Mammoth  Cave  Hotel,  $4.50 
per  day,  rooms  for  300  or  400  guests,  a  plain  wooden  ca- 
ravansary, until  morning. 

The  charge  for  a  guide  is  $1  or  $3,  according  to  his  ser- 
vices. Garments,  suitable  to  be  worn  in  the  long  tramp, 
are  furnished  gratis  by  the  guide.  There  are  two  routes 
taken  in  the  Cave,  called  respectively  the  Long  and  the 
Short  Route.  The  former,  for  which  the  guide's  services 
cost  $3,  extends  9  miles  and  return,  and  occupies  nearly 
or  quite  all  of  one  day.  It  is,  of  course,  performed  on  foot, 
the  "sailing"  on  the  Lethe  River  and  Echo  River  being 
quite  inconsiderable;  and  a  person  not  accustomed  to  a 
good  deal  of  fatigue  will  find  it  a  laborious  enjoyment. 
Every  one  knows,  or  should  know,  the  general  nature  of 
the  route  through  mines  and  caves,  (see  Down  in  the 
Mines  sketch,)  and  we  shall  not  need  here  to  undertake  a 
detailed  account  of  the  Mammoth  Cave  wonders.  The 
Short  Route  (charge  fc7  guide,  $1)  diverges  from  the  other 
at  the  distance  of  less  than  a  mile  within  the  entrance, 
and  is  more  picturesque  ;  its  extent  is  3  miles,  and  return, 
as  many  more.  There  are  thus  in  all  24  miles  of  usual 
travel ;  but  there  are  probably  150  miles  of  journeying 


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LAKES,   RIYEES,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


187 


possible  witliin  tlio  Cave,  much  of  it  quite  unexplored. 
Of  course,  in  this  are  counted  all  the  different  roads  and 
passages,  etc.,  in  all  directions.  But  you  can  not  make 
both  journeys  in  one  day,  were  you  ever  so  well  disposed  ; 
the  landlord  has  determined,  in  case  you  wish  to  make 
both,  to  enjoy  another  night's  draught  on  your  purse.  When 
you  return  from  one  route  to  the  entrance,  you  find  that 
the  guides  for  the  other  have  gone  for  the  day ;  to-morrow 
they  will  be  at  your  service. 

These  and  other  trifles  are  the  annoyances  of  which  the 
tourist  wishes  to  learn  beforehand ;  the  agreeable  things 
alone  are  welcome  as  surprises.  Of  the  latter  he  will  not 
exhaust  the  supply  in  Mammoth  Cave  in  less  than  two 
days  ;  but  either  route  alone  is  sufficient  to  give  one  some 
adequate  idea  of  the  great  natural  curiosity  of  Kentucky. 

THE  CAVES  OF  SCHOHARIE  COUNTY. 

After  the  great  caves  of  Kentucky  and  Virginia — and 
the  recent  "  Big  Saltpetre"  of  Marion  county,  Missouri — 
the  coun  y  of  Schoharie,  New- York  State,  affords  some  of 
the  most  interesting  subterranean  resorts  in  the  world. 
They  may  be  conveniently  reached  from  New- York  City 
by  way  of  Albany  and  the  Albany  and  Susquehanna  Rail- 
way. Stations,  Schoharie,  36  miles,  and  Howe's  Cave,  39 
miles  from  Albany ;  regular  all-rail  fare  from  New- York, 
$4.30.  Trains  leave  Albany  at  7.30  A.M.,  and  2  and  5  P.M., 
reaching  Howe's  Cave  at  9.40  a.m.,  and  3.58  and  8.37  p.m. 
Howe's  Cave,  which  is  much  the  most  interesting  one,  is 
visible  (a  short  walk  only)  from  the  station.  Ball's  Cave, 
nearly  as  large  and  important,  is  situated  some  2  miles 
(conveyance,  private  carriages)  from  the  station  of  Scho- 
harie. At  the  latter  place  there  are  several  hotels,  the 
chief  the  Mansion  and  the  Franklin  ;  terms,  about  $3.50 


188 


LAKES,    RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


per  day.  At  the  Cave  Station  there  is  a  more  pretentious 
house,  a  little  higher  in  its  prices.  Guides,  oil-skins,  etc., 
may  bo  obtained  at  these  houses. 

The  limestone  region  in  the  northern  part  of  this  county 
of  Schoharie  (not  very  far  from  Sharon  Springs)  contains  a 
number  of  caves,  very  interesting  in  their  size,  passages, 
and  minerals.  The  largest  is  Howe's  Cave,  named  for  its 
discoverer  and  owner,  Lester  Howe,  in  May,  1842.  Author- 
ities give  its  extent  variously  at  from  3  to  20  miles,  but 
it  probably  has  an  actual  length  of  between  3  and  4  miles. 
The  entrance  is  about  50  feet  below  the  Cobles  Kill.  Several 
spacious  chambers  detain  the  wondering  visitor ;  particu- 
larly the  Chapel,  called  so  from  the  usual  cause,  a  rude 
resemblance  to  an  assembly-room.  Next,  one  comes  upon 
a  low  i^assage-way,  not  high  enough  to  enable  one  to  pass 
except  on  all-fours ;  and  after  this  is  a  miniature  subter- 
ranean lake,  30  feet  long,  20  wide,  and  10  deep,  with  clear, 
limpid  waters.  By  listening  intently  at  certain  points  in 
the  journey,  the  singular  sound  of  a  hidden  river,  hurry- 
ing on  its  course,  and  even  of  an  invisible  waterfall,  may 
be  heard  in  the  distance.  The  cavern  follows  the  course 
of  a  brook  much  of  its  remaining  distance,  and  continues 
full  of  its  wonderful  surprises  and  beauties.  Whoever 
may  have  the  patience — for  it  hardly  requires  courage — 
to  follow  it  to  the  end,  will  be  richly  repaid. 

Ball's  Cave,  2  miles  from  Schoharie  Station,  for  which 
distance  carriages  may  be  had  at  the  hotels,  is  almost 
equally  attractive  to  the  student  of  the  hidden  or  the 
mysterious.  A  subterranean  stream  may  be  explored  for 
a  considerable  distance  here,  with  a  boat  kept  in  the  cave 
for  the  use  of  visitors.  There  are  several  cascades  in  its 
course. 

In  the  vicinity  there  are  many  curiosities  and  attrac- 


LAKES,   RIVERS,  AND  MOUNTAINS. 


189 


tions,  both  natural  and  aboriginal.  Utsayantha  Lake,  a 
small  sheet  of  water  in  Jefferson  township,  affords  a  sunlit 
contrast  to  the  Lethean  waters  of  the  caverns.  There  are 
numerous  other  caves  to  visit,  if  two  do  not  satisfy  the 
tourist. 

Not  very  far  from  Howe's  Cave,  in  the  eastern  part  of 
the  county,  upon  Schoharie  Cre^k,  there  was  once  another 
very  interesting  curiosity,  now  quite  destroyed.  Near  the 
village  of  Sloansville,  by  the  side  of  a  path  leading  to 
Fort  Hunter,  was  a  stone  heap  thrown  up  by  the  Indians, 
who  from  some  superstitious  reason  prevalent  among  them, 
never  failed  to  add  a  stone  to  the  pile  when  they  might 
pass  it.  A  writer  in  1753,  (the  Rev.  Gideon  Hawley,)  re- 
marks that  this  heap  had  been  accumulating  for  ages,  and 
that  his  native  guide  could  or  would  give  no  other  reason 
for  the  observance  than  that  his  father  practiced  the  rite, 
and  enjoined  it  upon  him.  He  did  not  like  to  talk  about 
it.  The  writer  believed  the  custom  to  h-^  ve  reference  to 
an  offering  "to  the  Unknown  God."  The  heap  gave 
name  to  the  Stone  Heap  Patent,  granted  September  15th, 
1770.  The  heap  was  4  rods  long,  1  or  2  wide,  and  10 
to  15  feet  high  ;  it  consisted  of  small,  flat  stones.  There 
have  been  similar  stone  heaps  noticed  elsewhere  in  the 
State.  No  trace  of  this  monument  now  remains,  in  the 
original  form,  the  unpoetic  land-owner  having  used  the 
stones,  without  ceremony,  for  a  fence. 


190 


LA.KES,    RIVERS,    AND   MOUNTAINS. 


THE  LAKES   OF   NEW-YOKK. 


i: 


The  great  lake  of  North-eastern  New- York,  called  by 
the  Indians  Saranac,  but  among  us  always  known  by 
the  name  of  the  French  discoverer,  lies  directly  upon  the 
most  fashionable  route  of  summer  travel.    Tourists  visit- 
ing the  Hudson  and  Lake  Horicon,  or  the  Saint  Lawrence 
country,  find  Lake  Champlain  directly  on  their  way.    It  is 
most  directly  available  from  New- York  or  Boston  by  rail 
to  Troy,  and  thence  by  Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  Railway 
to  Whitehall,  at  the  head  of  the  Lake.     Here  the  fine 
steamboats  of  the  Lake  Champlain  Company  start  upon 
their  journey.    Their  names  are:  the  Adirondac,  (new  and 
finest,)  Canada,  United  States,  and  Montreal.     They  leave 
Whitehall  at  11  A.M.  and  8.30  P.M.,  arriving,  one  at  Rouse's 
Point  at  8.45  p.m.,  and  the  other  at  Plattsburg  at  5.30  p.m. 
Going  south,  (up  the  lake,)  one  leaves  Plattsburg  at  8  A.M., 
reaching  Whitehall  at  5  p.m.  ;  the  other  leaves  Rouse's 
Point  at  6  p.m.,  (leaving  Montreal — ^the  great  train  of  the 
day,  by  Grand  Trunk  and  Vermont  Central  roads — at  4 
P.M.,)  and  arrives  at  Whitehall  at  6  A.M.    The  connections 
between  the  boats  and  the  railways  in  Vermont  are  not  as 
direct  or  certain  as  they  should  be.    A  good  deal  of  the 
lake  can  also  be  seen  by  passengers  on  the  Rutland  and 
Burlington  Railway ;  but  the  road  between  Rutland  and 
Troy  is,  chiefly,  not  near  the  lake.    There  is  no  railway 
on  the  western  (New- York)  side,  though  one  is  now  pro- 
jected. 


LAKEfc^l 


'5 


RIVEUS,   AND   MOU:STAINS. 


191 


Samuel  Champlain  discovered  and  named  this  lake  on 
his  third  voyage  from  France,  on  July  4tli,  1G09,  having 
been  declared  General  Lieutenant  of  Canada  by  King 
Henry  IV.  War  having  broken  out  between  the  Iroquois 
Indians  on  one  side,  and  the  Ilurons,  Algonquins,  and  other 
tribes  on  the  other,  Cliamplain  had  attached  himself  to  tlio 
latter  party  from  prudential  motives  in  regard  to  his  col- 
ony, and  went  with  the  Hurons  on  an  unsuccessful  expedi- 
tion against  their  foes.  It  was  on  this  journey  that  he  first 
beheld  the  lake.  His  unprovoked  hostility  to  the  Iroquois 
laid  the  foundation  for  their  long  wars  with  the  French, 
and  their  alliance,  afterward,  with  the  English.  lie  died 
in  1633. 

Lake  Champlain  is  126  miles  long,  and  varies  in  breadth 
from  40  rods  to  15  miles ;  depth,  54  to  282  feet ;  navigable 
throughout  its  whole  length  for  vessels  of  100  tons.  Its 
outlet,  the  Sorel  River,  carries  its  waters  to  the  River  Saint 
Lawrence.  (See  article  on  that  tour.)  On  the  south,  com- 
munication is  had  by  small  boats  with  the  Hudson  River, 
through  the  Cliamplain  Canal.  Navigation  closes  on 
Champlain  by  the  end  of  December,  and  usually  opens  by 
the  first  of  April ;  but  the  last  winter  season  was  unusually 
severe.  The  waters  of  the  lake  abound  with  bass,  pick- 
erel, salmon,  trout,  and  other  varieties  of  fish.  The  scenery 
of  the  region  is  not  to  be  surpassed.  The  Vermont  shores 
are,  for  the  most  part,  fertile  and  highly  cultivated,  delight- 
ing the  eye ;  while  on  the  New- York  side  a  grand  contrast 
is  afforded  in  the  wild,  rocky,  and  barren  country  which, 
at  a  short  distance  inland,  develops  into  the  mountainous 
and  lake  region  of  the  Adirondacks.  That  famous  range 
begins  at  Cape  Trembleau,  near  Port  Kent,  1500  feet  high, 
and  extends  south-westerly  to  Little  Falls,  on  the  ^lohawk 
River. 


192 


LAKES,    lUVEUS,   AND    MOUNTAINS. 


n 


\  ' 


Starting  fn^m  Wliitolmll  at  11  A.M.,  wo  travel  for  40 
miles  iii)on  that  narrow  portion  of  tho  lake  which  seems 
rather  to  belonpf  to  a  great  river.  Tho  first  boat-landing 
is  at  BenHon'n,  l.'J  miles  down  tho  lake — a  small  village  on 
tho  (right-hand)  Vermont  shore ;  tho  next  at  Oswell,  20 
miles  on  tlu;  same  side ;  and  then  wo  come  to  Fort  Tic^"*- 
deroga,  21  miles  from  Whitehall.  Hero  is  a  good  hotel,  «.»a 
some  distance  back  from  the  lake,  commanding  a  very 
pleasing  view  of  it,  stands  tho  old  fort  itself.  This  land- 
ing is  the  point  of  dt;parturo  for  Lake  Iloricon.  (See  arti- 
cle on  Lake  George.)  Tho  place  is  notable  for  its  water- 
power,  (think  of  using  tho  lovely  waters  of  Iloricon  to  turn 
a  saw-mill!)  its  graphite  works,  and  its  lumber  business. 
Particularly,  however,  visitorp  care  for  tho  old  fort,  now 
quite  a  ruin,  with  its  supposed  underground  passages, 
magazine,  etc.  The  French  built  tho  fort  in  1755,  and  called 
it  Carillon,  ("  chime  of  bells,")  in  allusion  to  the  water- 
falls on  the  Iloricon  outlet,  near  it.  It  was  soon  afterward 
called  by  its  present  Indian  name.  Sir  William  Johnson, 
of  tho  British  army,  would  have  undertaken  its  reduction, 
in  the  same  year,  (1755,)  in  the  interest  of  that  long  ques- 
tion of  supremacy  of  the  lake  between  the  French  and 
English ;  but  learning  that  the  former  had  reeaforced  it 
strongly,  ho  was  content  to  fortify  Will?  m  Henry,  at 
Caldwell.  Montcalm  reduced  that  fort,  ho  >r,  on  the  3d 
of  August,  1757.  General  Amherst  laid  siege  to  Ticonde- 
roga  in  1759  with  12,000  men,  and  the  French  were  obliged 
to  abandon  it,  July  30tli.  Crown  Point  was  also  abandoned 
soon  after.  The  English  Government  then  enlarged  and 
strengthened  the  two  fortresses  at  a  cost  of  $10,000,000, 
making  them  the  best  in  the  country.  After  the  cession  of 
Canada,  in  1763,  the  fort  was  allowed  to  fall  into  partial 
decay,  and  had  but  a  small  garrison ;  and  Ethan  Allen 


LAKli:S,    IIIVEUS,    AND    MOUKTAIXS. 


193 


BurpriHcd  aiul  captured  it,  May  lOtli,  1775 — ono  of  tho  firHt 
fruits  of  tho  uprising?  of  the  colonii'a.  Ihirpfoyno  C()iiip<^llcd 
its  evacuation  a;x«^iii  July  4th,  1777, and  licpt  it  ^ill  liis  «ur- 
rondcr.  It  was  last  occupiod  as  a  point  of  iiiiportanco  by 
General  llaldeman,  with  a  company  of  British  soldiers,  in 
1780. 

Two  miles  further  is  Shoreham,  an  iinimpor'tant  landing 
(to  us)  on  iho  east  shore.  Crown  Point  comes  next,  i]5 
miles  down.  The  French  erected  tho  Fort  Frederick  hero 
in  1731,  wiiilo  the  French  settlements  ahmj?  the  lake  were 
Bpringing"  up.  Its  history  is  closely  allied  with  that  of 
Ticondero^a,  and  its  present  appearance  is  not  more  prom- 
ising. Sir  William  Johnson  intended  to  have  moved 
upon  Crown  Point,  as  well  as  Ticonderoga,  when  ho  was 
obliged  to  retire  to  William  Henry.  The  whole  region 
camo  into  tho  hands  of  tho  English  in  1759 ;  and  Allen 
took  both  these  fortresses,  as  has  been  already  stated. 

Port  Henry  is  an  interesting  landing  and  town,  44  miles 
from  Whitehall,  in  tho  midst'of  some  of  tho  most  pleasing, 
quiet  scenery  on  the  lake. 

Westport,  and  Essex,  55  and  C5  jnilcs,  arc  at  tho  base  of 
tho  mountainous  region  which  has  been  already  alluded 
to.  And  at  Port  Kent,  the  next  landing  on  tho  New- York 
side,  90  miles  do^^  n,  tourists  who  are  wise  enough  not  to 
lose  tho  scenery  of  tho  Au  Sablo  Chasm,  leave  the  boat 
and  take  stage  over  the  plank-road  to  Keeseville.  Tho 
Adirondack  region  is  entered  from  four  of  these  landing- 
places  on  the  lake :  Crown  Point,  Westport,  Essex,  and 
Port  Kent.  For  descriptions  of  tho  routes  to  tho  Adiron- 
dack Forest,  and  of  tho  grand  Walled  Banks  of  tho  Au 
Sable,  see  article  entitled  The  Adirondacks.  While  tho 
boat  stops  at  Port  Kent,  however,  the  traveler  ■who 
remains  on  board  will  have  time  to  observe  the  fine  old 


!  M 


i 


I 


194 


LAKES,    TwIVERS,    AND   MOUNTAINS. 


■^ 


Stone  mansion  of  Colonel  Elkanah  Watson,  upon  the  hill 
just  back  of  the  lake.  Colonel  Watson  originated  the 
first  agricultural  society  in  the  State  of  New- York,  and 
his  record  of  a  journey  which  he  made  at  the  age  of  19,  in 
the  year  1777,  is  the  best  account  which  we  possess  of  the 
principal  towns  and  villages  of  the  colonies  in  the  Revo- 
lutionary period.  He  died  in  1843,  and  his  children  still 
occupy  the  old  place. 

Opposite  Port  Kent,  or  nearly  so,  (the  lake  is  here  10 
miles  wide,  and  clear  of  islands,)  lies  the  late  town,  now 
city,  of  Burlington,  in  Vermont.    There  are  but  two  cities 
in  the  State  of  Vermont — ^Vergennes,  population  128  ^,  (last 
census,)  and  Burlington,  7713,  incorporated  within  5  years. 
There  is  not  a  great  deal  to  see  in  Burlington,  its  charm 
to  the  tourist  being  rather  in  its  views  of  the  lake  and  the 
mountains  and  forests  beyond.    In  this  respect,  we  venture 
to  declare  it  the  finest  lake-view  in  the  counLry.    Standing 
in  the  cupola  of  the  University,  on  the  summit  of  the  hill 
behind  the  city,  we  behold,  upon  the  north,  Plattsburg,  the 
great  islands  of  the  lake  and  their  circumjacent  waters, 
and  the  landscapes  of  Vermont  and  the  Canadian  Domin- 
ion.    On  the  eastward  view.  Mount  Mansfield  and  the 
chain  of  the  Green  Mountains,  running  down  to  Mount 
Lebanon  and  Camel's  Hump  toward  the  southward,  shut 
out  the  great  Connecticut  Valley,  and  leave  a  very  attrac- 
tive view  instead.    The  little  creek  and  village  of  Winooski 
lies  at  the  foot  of  Burlington  liill,  toward  the  north-east ; 
and  beyond  it  the  Vermont  country  stretches  away  in  a 
remarkable  similaritj^  to  Western  prairie-land.     To  the 
south-west  lies  a  great  expanse  of  lake,  as  far  as  Fort 
Ticonderoga.    But  the  western  view  is  the  one  which  will 
first  catch  our  eye,  and  to  vv^hich  we  shall  oftenest  return. 
Ten  miles'  width  of  the  lake  makes  a  capital  foreground 


p 


LAKES,    PwIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


195 


for  the  famous  wilderness  of  Nortliern  New-York,  above 
whose  unbroken  forests  rise  the  towering  peaks  of  Mcln- 
tyre,  White  Face,  and  Tahawus,  (Marcy,)  to  an  altitude, 
at  the  greatest,  of  GOOO  feet.  We  have  counted  more  than 
60  peaks  within  the  scope  of  our  vision  in  tliis  most  mag- 
nificent and  inspiriting  \iew. 

If  the  tourist  has  a  little  time  to  spend  about  Burling- 
ton, he  Avill  visit  the  tomb  of  Ethan  Allen,  in  the  cemetery 
just  above  the  village  of  Winooski,  on  Burlington  Hill — 
a  very  fine  shaft  of  native  granite,  which  will,  some  time 
or  other,  be  surmounted  with  a  statue.  Allen  died  here 
February  13th,  1789.  The  University  of  Vermont,  founded 
1791,  will  receive  some  attention  as  the  tourist  seeks  its 
cupola ;  particularly  he  will  notice  the  corner-stone  of  one 
of  the  more  recent  dormitory  buildings,  laid  by  General 
La  Fayette  during  his  visit  to  America  in  1825.  The  ele- 
gant and  picturesque  residence  of  the  late  Bishop  Hopkins, 
and  his  seminary,  at  Rocky  Point,  2  or  3  miles  down  the 
shore  of  the  lake,  will  well  repay  a  visit.  Visitors  are 
made  quite  welcome  to  inspect  the  establishment. 

Hotels. — The  American  House,  fronting  the  square  in 
the  centre  of  the  city,  half-way  up  to  the  University,  and 
the  Lake  House,  close  to  the  depots,  are  the  principal  pub- 
lic houses.  Terms,  $3.50  per  day.  The  visitor  coming  by 
boat  should  not  fail  to  see  the  depot  of  the  Vermont  Cen- 
tral and  the  Rutland  and  Burlington  Railways,  close  by 
the  fine  steamboat  wharf;  it  is  one  of  the  most  ornate  in 
the  country.  From  Burlington,  tourists  start  for  the  White 
Mountains,  Mount  Mansfield,  and  Montreal  by  rail.  For 
the  first,  see  article  entitled  The  White  Mountains; 
the  route  to  the  second  is  given  on  page  56. 

Plattsburg,  105  miles  from  Whitehall,  09  from  Rouse's 
Point,  is  the  next  station  on  our  journey.    This  is  a  village, 


196 


LAKES,    ElVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


II! 


ll 


'  M : 


III 


with  some  8000  inliabitants,  of  Clinton  county,  New- York, 
standing  upon  Cumberland  Bay,  at  the  mouth,  and  on 
both  sides  of  the  Saranac  River.    Hotel,  Fouquet's ;  terms, 
$3  per  day.     The  spot  is  not  interesting  for  any  thing 
present,  but  has  high  historical  distinction.     Cumberland 
Bay  was  the  scene  of  the  victory  of  McDonough  and  Ma- 
comb over  the  British  naval  and  land  forces,  under  Commo- 
dore Downie  and  Sir  George  Provost,  and  familiarly  known 
as  the  Battle  of  Lake  Champlain.     Here  the  American 
commodore  awaited  the  arrival  of  the  British  fleet,  which 
passed  Cumberland  Head  about  8  o'clock  in  the  morning 
of  September  11th,  1814.    The  first  gun  from  the  fleet  was 
the  signal  for  commencing  the  attack  on  land.    Sir  George 
Provost,  with  about  14,000  men,  furiously  assaulted  the 
defenses  of  the  town,  whilst  the  battle  raged  between  the 
fleets,  in  full  view  of  the  armies.     General  Macomb,  with 
about  3000  men,  mostly  undisciplined,  foiled  the  repeated 
assaults  of  the  enemy,  until  the  capture  of  the  British 
fleet,  after  an  action  of  about  two  hours,  obliged  the  lat- 
ter to  retire,  with  the  loss  of  2500  men  and  a  large  portion 
of  his  baggage  and  amunition. 

Twenty-five  miles  farther  we  reach  Rouse's  Point,  on 
the  west  or  New- York  side  of  the  lake.  This  is  our  last 
landing  before  we  enter  Canada.  Montreal  is  now  44 
miles  distant,  and  may  be  reached  direct  only  by  rail,  (Mon- 
treal and  Champlain ;)  time,  a  little  less  than  2  hours ; 
fare,  $2.  The  River  Sorel  (see  article  River  Saint  Law- 
BENCE,  near  the  end)  is  the  outlet  of  Lake  Champlain,  car- 
rying its  waters  to  the  Saint  Lawrence  in  a  course  of  80 
miles,  emptying  at  the  head  of  Lake  Saint  Peter  on  that 
river.  Its  breadth  and  rapidity  are  greatest  at  this  (south- 
ern) end.  Near  the  centre  of  its  course  it  expands  into  the 
basin  of  Chambly.     It  is  called  by  not  less  than  four 


is         : 


LAKES,    RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


197 


■ll!!^ 


names.  The  Northern  Railway  runs  from  Rouse's  Point 
to  Ogdensburg,  118  miles,  $4 ;  passengers  for  the  Thousand 
Islands,  above  Ogdensburg,  or  the  Rapids  below,  in  the 
River  Saint  Lawrence,  take  this  route. 


LAKE  (HOBICON)  GEORGE. 

The  very  best  way  to  arrive  at  Lake  George  (assuming 
that  you  are  in  its  neighborhood)  is  by  the  stage  from  Fort 
Ti,  and  the  afternoon  boat  to  Fort  William  Henry :  the 
very  best  way  to  leave  Lake  George  is  to  take  the  4  a.m. 
special  stage  from  William  Henry  Hotel  to  Moreau  Sta- 
tion. By  the  first,  you  assure  yourself  of  a  sunset  on  the 
lake,  with  all  the  glorious,  deepening  shadows  of  the  after- 
noon introducing  it ;  and  by  the  latter,  you  see  the  dawn 
breaking  over  the  hills  and  piercing  into  the  depths  of  the 
water  between  them,  as — ^believe  us — you  never  can  see  it 
on  the  piazza  of  the  great  lodging-house,  or,  probably, 
anywhere  else. 

Americans  should  call  this  lake  by  its  native  name  of 
Horicon,  ("  the  silvery  waters,")  although  that  is  not  the 
only  title  which  the  Indians  gave  it.  It  was  discovered  by 
the  French  in  1609,  and  by  them  called  Saint  Sacrement ; 
and  they  regularly  transported  its  pure  waters  to  Canada, 
as  New-Yorkers  now  import  the  waters  of  the  Jordan,  for 
baptismal  purposes.  The  English  afterward  honored 
King  George  I.  by  re-naming  the  beautiful  lake  for  him. 
We  shall  not  be  expected  to  remind  the  reader  that  Revo- 
lutionary stories  fill  all  the  waters,  hang  over  all  the  cliffs, 
and  rustle  in  all  the  trees  throughout  this  whole  region. 

The  tourist  may  approach  Lake  Horicon  either  from 
north  or  south,  but  only  by  stage.  The  least  staging  is  by 
Fort  Ticonderoga  (generally  called  "  Fort  Ti "  hereabout) 
route.     Fort  Ti   is  34  miles  (by  boat  only)  north  from 


I  I 


198 


LAKES,   KITE RS,   AND   MOUNTAINS, 


f 


Wliitehall,  which  is  the  southern  terminus  of  tlie  Lake 
Champlain  steamboat  line,  and  a  station  on  the  Rensselaer 
and  Saratoga  Railway,  73  miles  north-east  from  Albany,  20 
miles  south-west  of  Rutland.  A  line  of  stages,  4  miles,  75 
cents  I  connects  Fort  Ticonderoga  with  the  nameless  foot  of 
Horicon,  where  the  steamboat  Minne-ha-ha  stands  waiting 
to  convey  its  noisy,  happy,  numerous  load  to  Caldwell  or 
elsewhere.  Fare  to  Caldwell,  $3,  with  privilege  of  return 
same  day  free.  The  approach  by  the  southern  or  upper 
end  of  the  lake  (most  New- York  waters  flow  northward, 
V.  p.  30  in  article  on  Erie  Railway,)  is  as  follows :  leaving 
the  Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  Railway  at  Moreau  Station, 
48  miles  from  Albany,  47  from  Rutland,  stages  run  (through 
Glenn's  Falls,  on  the  Hudson)  to  Caldwell  direct,  13  miles, 
fare  $1.50 — a  beautiful  though  fatiguing  ride,  in  excellent 
coaches. 

Let  us  suppose  ourselves  arrived  from  Lake  Champlain, 
after  a  4  mile  "  outside  "  stage-ride  over  a  romantic  road, 
following  the  wild  course  of  the  passage,  full  of  bold  rap- 
ids and  striking  cascades,  by  which  Horicon  reaches  the 
waters  of  Lake  Champlain.  (Ladies,  as  well  as  gentlemen, 
customarily  avail  themselves  here  of  the  ample  and  excel- 
lent seats  upon  the  tops  of  the  stages,  and  we  counsel  our 
fair  readers  to  suflfer  no  timidity  to  withhold  them  from 
the  enjoyment  of  this  beautiful  ride,  which  can  only  be 
secured  in  this  way.)  Our  baggage  and  ourselves  trans- 
ferred to  the  Minne-ha-ha,  we  are  ready  to  listen  to  the 
welcome  information  which  an  employe  of  the  boat  com- 
pany kindly  proclaims.  Prisoner's  Island,  2  miles  up, 
where  the  English  confined  their  captives  during  the  wars 
of  long  ago,  and  Howe's  Landing,  on  the  west  from  the 
island,  are  the  first  points  of  interest.  Lord  Howe  fell  in 
the  English  attack  upon  Ticonderoga  in  1758,  and  this 


LAKES,    RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


199 


landing  is  named  for  him.  Bogers's  Slide  on  tlio  right, 
and  Anthony's  Nose  on  the  left,  are  two  promontories  some 
2  miles  further  up  the  lake,  which  form  a  sort  of  gateway 
to  a  grand  and  beautiful  bay.  The  Slide  (400  feet  high) 
is  named  for  Major  Rogers,  (1758,)  who  tricked  some  red- 
skins into  the  belief  that  he  slid  down  its  face  prior  to  his 
escape  to  Fort  George.  By  looking  at  the  precipice,  the 
tourist  will  see  that  he  didn't.  Anthony's  Nose,  opposite, 
is  less  interesting — but  the  pass  will  remind  one  of  that 
other  Nose  of  Anthony,  on  the  Hudson  River,  where  the 
Dunderberg  answers  to  the  Slide. 

The  lake  now  broadens  suddenly,  as  we  leave  Rogers's 
Slide  and  Anthony's  Nose,  and  gains  from  the  people  here 
the  misnomer  of  "bay,"  as  far  as  Sabbath-day  Point,  7 
miles  distant.  The  greatest  width  is  about  4  miles ;  and 
the  little  village  of  Hague,  on  the  western  (right-hand) 
side,  3  miles  south  from  the  Slide,  monopolizes  this  broad 
extent.  The  well  known  Garfield's  Hotel  here  was  formerly 
a  chosen  resort  of  fishermen  and  artists :  it  was  burned 
4  or  5  years  ago,  but  was  rebuilt  last  summer,  and  was 
opened  at  moderate  prices — $2.50  or  $3  per  day.  Hague 
is  the  point  of  departure  for  Lake  Pharaoh,  a  favorite  trout- 
pond,  12  miles  to  the  north-west,  surrounded  by  wild  and 
picturesque  scenery. 

At  Sabbath-day  Point,  on  the  west  shore,  the  sterility 
which  hardly  the  western  shore  escapes,  and  which  cha- 
racterizes the  whole  eastern  side  of  the  lake  throughout  its 
length,  breaks  a  little,  and  for  a  brief  space  our  eyes  feast 
upon  fertile,  level  land.  The  Point  is  a  narrow  bit  of 
meadow-land,  which  projects  far  into  the  lake ;  along  its 
edge  we  may  glance  down  to  the  pebbles  beneath  the  pure 
water,  and  lose  ourselves  in  the  sweetness  and  beauty  of 
our  surroundings.    Good  reader,  take  our  advice  here,  and 


I 


! 


200 


LAKES,   EIVERS,  AND  MOUNTAINS. 


leave  military  stories  to  your  neighbor ;  stand  aside,  and 
think  of  this  spot  without  its  traditions  or  its  history,  suf- 
fering Nature  alone  to  work  the  charm  of  her  silence  upon 
you.  Think  here,  if  you  will,  of  the  baptismal  waters 
beneath  whose  depths  you  may  look,  seven  fathoms  down, 
upon  the  yellow  sand ;  of  the  chief  islands,  which  may 
mark  Sabbaths  in  the  calendar  that  Horicon  keeps  by  her 
islands ;  and  forget,  beyond  these,  all  but  the  Point,  the 
Sabbath  it  honors,  and  the  Lord  of  both. 

After  passing  Sabbath-day  Point,  we  begin  to  come  upon 
the  islands  of  Horicon  in  multitudes ;  and  here,  as  we  wan- 
der about  among  them,  the  cicerone  will  say  that  "  these 
islands  are  said  to  greatly  resemble  the  celebrated  Thou- 
sand Isles  of  the  Saint  Lawrence."   The  parallel  may  fairly 
be  extended  further.   Excepting  only  the  rapids  and  the  poi- 
sonous water,  (see  sketch  of  Saint  Lawkence,)  this  littlo 
Caniderioit  ("  the  tail  of  the  lake,"  as  the  Indians  some- 
times called  it,  from  its  relation  to  Champlain)  affords  a 
complete  epitome — a  pocket  edition,  bound  in  blue  and  gold 
— of  the  whole  great  tour  of  the  Saint  Lawrence.      Every 
thing  is  miniatured,  but  the  copy  is  faithful :  the  "  thou- 
sand isles " — here  they  correspond  (in  theory)  in  number 
to  the  days  of  the  year — with  their  singular  channels, 
their  abounding  fish,  their  rustic  summer-houses,  and  the 
unutterable   beauty  of  their  pebble-fringed  e  Iges ;   the 
mountainous  country  round  about,  now  lofty  and  abrupt 
enough  to  recall  the  Saguenay  walls,  and  now  receding 
like  the  pretty  village-dotted  banks  from  Quebec  to  Tadous- 
sac ;  the  long,  river-like  views ;  the  oft-broadening  stream, 
like  the  Lakes  Saint  Louis  and  Saint  Peter,  on  the  Saint 
Lawrence,  extending    suddenly  and    again  closing    the 
inroads  of  the  water  upon  the  banks,  and  the  gay  crowds 
(here  in  miniature  again — ^most  often  children  have  the 


} 


LAKES,    RIVERS,    AND   MOUNTAINS. 


201 


majority  at  tlio  little  docks.)  But  the  comparison  may 
hardly  bo  continued  when  we  look  down  into  the  lake. 
The  waters  of  Horicon  are  pellucid,  exposing  the  sandy 
bed  to  view  to  the  depth  of  40  feet ;  but  the  liquid  emerald 
which,  flowing  over  Niagara,  was  called  by  the  natives 
Ontario — "beautiful" — comes  down  very  little  changed  in 
hue  to  fill  the  channels  of  the  Saint  Lawrence.  The  com- 
parisons ambitiously  drawn,  also,  between  Horicon  and 
the  European  Lomond  and  Geneva,  are  not  Avholly  unjust. 

The  islands  of  Horicon  are  said  to  equal  in  number  the 
days  of  the  year,  as  the  round  number,  1000,  is  applied  to 
the  Isles  of  the  Saint  Lawrence.  The  number  is  exagge- 
rated hero,  as  it  is  underrated  there ;  but  the  notion  is  a 
pleasing  one,  and  surely  quite  harmless!  The  lake  is 
indebted  to  them  for  its  beauty,  as  to  its  mountain  sides 
for  its  magnificence.  Their  variety  is  charming,  both  as 
to  form  and  aspect.  Some  are  of  considerable  extent,  level 
and  cultivated ;  others  rise  in  rugged  cliffs  from  the  water, 
their  summits  crowned  with  tufts  of  vegetation,  and  their 
crevices  filled  with  clinging  shrubs  and  stunted  trees ; 
some  are  bare  rocks,  on  which  the  water-fowl  make  their 
nests ;  and  many  are  mere  points,  rising  but  a  few  feet 
above  the  water ;  but  all  are  beautiful  and  interesting  to 
those  who  have  the  good  fortune  to  traverse  their  laby- 
rinths. In  the  absence  of  an  engraving  to  suggest  to  our 
readers  these  peculiar  attractions  of  Horicon,  we  may  avail 
ourselves  of  a  brief  pen-picture  by  the  eminent  artist,  T. 
Addison  Richards,  N.  A. : 

"  With  every  changing  hour,"  he  writes,  "  dawn,  sun- 
set, and  night — with  the  varying  weather — from  the  calm 
of  drowsy  morning  to  the  eve  of  gathering  storm — these 
islands  are  found  in  ever-changing  phases.  As  they  sleep 
for  a  moment  in  the  deep  quiet  of  a  passing  cloud-shadow, 


i 


w 


liiil 


\ 


202 


LAKES,    RIVERS,    AND   MOUNTAIXS. 


you  sigh  for  rest  in  their  cooling  bowers.  Anon  tlio  sun 
hrealvs  over  tlicm,  and  you  arc  still  as  eager  to  mingle  in 
their  now  wild  and  lawless  revelry.  You  may  shako  up 
the  lake  liko  a  kaleidoscope,  seeing  with  every  varying 
change  a  new  i)icturo,  by  shnply  varying  your  relative 
position  to  these  islands.  Now  you  have  a  fore-ground  of 
pebbly  beach,  or,  perchance,  of  jagged  rock  or  of  forest 
debris,  with  the  spreading  water  and  the  distance-tinted 
hills,  to  fill  up  the  canvas ;  or,  peeping  beneath  the  pen- 
dent boughs  of  the  beech  and  maple,  an  Arcadian  bower 
discloses  vistas  of  radiant  beauty." 

The  islands  surround  us  liko  ncreids  until,  yes,  after,  wo 
are  fairly  in  the  Narrows.  At  this  point  tho  hills  extend 
into  tho  lake  and  contract  it  very  considerably,  while  tho 
height  of  tho  mountains  renders  tho  contraction  more  im- 
pressive and  apparent,  giving  to  our  view  the  boldest  and 
most  pictures(xue  parts  of  the  shores  of  Lake  George.  Tho 
water  hero  is  400  feet  deep,  and  wonderfully  pellucid,  per- 
mitting tho  eye  to  penetrate  far  into  its  depths.  The  Black 
(2300<eet)  and  Buck  Mountains  stand  on  the  eastern  shoro, 
the  latter  toward  tho  south.  At  tho  base  of  Black  Moun- 
tain are  some  ten  or  a  dozen  turtle-shaped  islands,  which 
lie  as  if  threateningly  guarding  the  approach :  for  theso 
some  patriotic  nomenclator  has,  within  a  year  or  two, 
thought  up  the  name  of  "Gunboats"  as  appropriate. 
Tongue  (sometimes  also  called  Black)  Mountain,  on  tho 
western  side,  is  so  named  from  its  projecting  down  into 
the  lake  like  a  tonguo. 

Just  above  the  Narrows,  on  the  eastern  side,  lies  Four- 
teen-mile Island,  so  named  (correctly)  from  its  distance 
from  Caldwell.  Derrom's  Hotel,  on  this  island,  is  by  soma 
considered  the  best  eating-place  on  the  lake — terms,  $2  per 
day,  $10  to  $12  per  week. 


LAKES,    RIVEIIS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


203 


Bolton,  at  tho  Houtli-woRtorn  tmd  of  tho  NorthvvoBt  Bay, 
h  a  smull  villanro,  with  a  liotol  (terms  low)  which  can 
accomiuodato  70  or  80  giieMts,  (a  favorito  i)laco  for  fami- 
lies,) and  18  usually  crowded,  like  most  of  the  i)iibllc 
houses  on  IToricon. 

Trout  PaviUon,  on  tho  oast,  4  milcp  diap^onal  from  Bol- 
ton, is  a  hotel  (no  village)  kept  by  J.  Cronkhill,  at  tho  very 
best  fisliing  grounds  on  tho  lake.  Terms,  same  as  at  Der- 
roni's. 

Between  Bolton  and  Caldwell  there  are  one  or  two  fish- 
ermen's houses,  where  parties  out  late  sometimes  stay  over 
night ;  hut  of  regular  accommodation,  there  is  an  entire 
lack. 

In  tho  middle  of  tho  lake,  12  miles  from  Caldwell,  lies 
Doom  or  Twelve-milo  Island,  where  Secretary  Seward's 
Saint  Thomas  earthquake  was  falsely  reported  to  have  spent 
a  day  or  two  on  its  northern  tour  last  summer.  The  story 
was  "  manufactured  out  of  whole  cloth ;"  no  volcanic  dis- 
turhunce  has  been  known  upon  it. 

Caldwell  is  a  place  of  no  interest  to  the  tourist,  save  for 
its  ruined  Revolutionary  forts.  Fort  William  Henry  stood 
upon  the  ground  now  occupied  by  tho  hotel  bearing  ita 
name.  An  inhuman  riassacre  of  1500  men  of  Colonel  Mon- 
roe's (English)  garrison,  by  Indians  allied  with  the  French 
army,  occurred  here  August  9th,  1757.  About  a  mile  sout'h- 
east  from  the  site  of  Fort  William  Henry  are  the  ruins  of 
Fort  George,  which  we  shall  pass  on  the  road  to  Glenn's 
Falls. 

There  are  two  first-class  hotels  at  Caldwell,  where  I^ake 
Horicon  ends.  The  Fort  William  Henry  Hotel,  Daniel 
Giile,  proprietor,  we  can  commend  as  excellent  in  table 
and  rooms.  A  band  of  music  is  employed  during  the 
height  of  the  season,  and  the  piazzas  in  front  command  a 


i\ 


204 


LAKES,   KIVEllf},   AND   M0UNTAIX3. 


I  !  1 


priculcss  view  of  tlio  liiko.  At  tlio  steauihoat  dock,  a  few 
BtcpsUowii  from  tlio  pia/za,  row-boats  may  bo  had  in  abun- 
dance, upon  roaaonablo  tonus.  TorniH  of  tliis  Iiouho,  $4 
per  day,  ^2')  per  week  ;  acconiiuodations  for  say  350  quests. 
The  Lake  1  louse  is  auotber  excellent  house,  whose  i)iaz7.a 
commands  a  fine  view  of  tho  ruins  of  Fort  George,  tlio 
French  Mountain,  and  Rattlesnake  Hill,  and  of  the  islands 
and  hills  ilown  tho  lake.  Terms,  $18  to  $'25  per  week  ; 
rooms  for  150  j^uests.  Desides  these  two  chief  houses, 
there  are  stweral  smaller  inns  or  taverns,  chielly  frequented 
by  the  residents  of  the  region,  for  whom  Caldwell  is  on 
important  halting-place  on  tho  great  water-route  between 
Albany  and  tho  north  country. 

Before  wo  bid  farewell  to  Lake  Iloricon,  we  should 
assure  our  nature-loving  readers  of  a  pleasure  upon  tho 
water  near  tho  echoing  hills,  close  to  Caldwell.  About  1 
mile  from  the  steamboat  dock,  a  merry  row-boat  party  will 
find  the  shores  of  the  lake  flinging  back  their  songs  and 
laughter  with  delightful  insolence ;  and  a  little  attention 
will  discern  four  distinct  and  ringing  echoes,  aj^parently 
from  all  points  of  tho  compass.  A  more  serene  enjoyment 
than  a  row  on  this  lake,  just  after  tea  and  before  daylight 
has  wholly  withdnavn,  can  hardly  bo  commended  to  a 
tourist  in  America. 

The  Road  to  Moreau. — Let  us  again  urgently  entreat, 
dear  reader,  that  our  experience  may  persuade  you  to  make 
up  a  party  for  an  ea-rlj  ride  to  Glenn's  Falls.  The  regular 
stage  leaves  the  Fort  Williar»i  Henry  at  7  a.m. — the  same 
*imc  taken  by  tho  boat  for  Fort  Ti :  but  if  a  sufficient 
number  of  passenvirer'=<  av^  booked  the  night  previous,  mine 
host  wilx  see  that  you  go  as  early  as  4  o'clock,  which 
enables  you  to  connect  at  8.19  at  Moreau  with  the  train 
reaching  Albany  at  10.50  A.M.,  New- York  5.15  p.m.    Regu- 


'  r» 


LAKES,   RIVEliS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


205 


ike 
liar 
[mo 
lent 
line 
licli 
lain 


lar  faro  from  tlio  hotel  to  Moreau,  $1.50;  and  if  a  wliolo 
Btag«^loatl  (nay  12)  take  tliis  extra  stage,  there  will  not  (as 
otherwise  there  will)  bo  extra  charge.  The  start  ien  an 
early  one  ;  but  the  back  glances  at  the  lake,  from  the  top 
of  the  stage,  as  the  morning  sun  glorifies  it,  are  worth  a 
c'ay's  journey.  One  experience  of  each  of  the  two  morning 
stoges,  has  more  than  satisfied  the  present  writer  of  tho 
value  of  the  above  advice. 

Four  miles  from  the  lake,  we  pass  a  dark  glen,  in  which 
lie  hidden  the  storied  waters  of  Bloody  Pond,  and  close  by 
is  tho  historic  old  boulder,  remembered  as  Williams's  Rock. 
Near  this  last-mentioned  spot.  Colonel  Williams,  founder 
of  Williams  College,  in  Massachusetts,  was  killed  in  an 
engagement  with  the  French  and  Indians,  September  8tli, 
1775.  The  slain  in  this  unfortunate  battle  were  cast  into 
the  waters  near  by,  since  called  Bloody  Pond.  It  is  now 
quiet  enough,  under  its  surface  of  slimo  and  dank  lilies. 

Glenn's  Falls,  9  miles  from  Iloricon,  was  the  scene  (18G0) 
of  one  of  those  devastating  fires  wliich  seem  for  some  years 
to  have  been  preparing  the  Empire  State  for  the  visit  of 
Mr.  Seward's  earthquake.  Tho  village,  with  a  population 
of  5000  souls,  was  one  of  the  most  universally  admired  in 
the  State ;  and  its  rebuilding  has  even  added  to  its  ele- 
gance. It  stands  upon  a  fall  in  the  upper  Hudson,  from 
which  it  takes  its  name.  The  passage  of  the  river  is 
through  a  rude  ravine,  in  a  descent  of  75  feet  over  a  rocky 
precipice  of  900  feet  in  length.  The  water  descends  in  a 
succession  of  leaps  over  rugged  rocks,  amid  which  it  boils 
and  foams,  spurts  and  thunders,  in  magnificent  style,  espe- 
cially when  the  river  is  in  full-flood,  as  it  finds  its  way 
through  the  wild  ravine,  and  emerges  into  the  quiet  lands 
below.    Within  the  roar  of  these  rapids  were  laid  some  of 


! 
r 


kru- 


206 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


the  scenes  in  Fenimore  Cooper's  noTel  of  the  Last  of  the 
Mohicans. 

The  ride  over  the  plank  road  beyond  the  falls  is  a  mat- 
ter of  no  especial  interest,  and  is  only  valuable  for  inducing 
an  appetite,  if  you  left  the  lak^.  lunch  less.  Perhaps  this 
is  not  a  merit ;  for  when  we  reach  Moreau  Station,  we  find 
a  good  country  breakfast  smoking  on  the  table  for  us,  and 
only  about  four  minutes  to  eat  it  in.  There  is  a  capital 
restaurant  in  the  union  railway  depot  at  Troy,  but  the  trains 
connect  too  closely  to  allow  more  time  here,  and  the  next 
available  eating-point  will  be  Poughkeepsie.  A  four-min- 
ute breakfast,  therefore,  or  a  hurried  lunch  before  leaving 
Horicon,  must  be  counted  in  the  price  of  this  sunrise. 


LAKE  MAHOPAC  AND  VICINITY. 

Of  inlnnd  lakes  or  waterinj[:'-places  within  a  few  miles' 
ride  of  the  great  metropolis,  none  is  more  popular  as  an 
elegant  resort  than  Lake  Mahopac.  By  the  Harlem  E  ail- 
way,  one  may  go  in  2  hours  to  Croton  Falls,  (51  miles,  fare 
$1.50,)  whence  stages  (5  miles  west,  75  cents  regular  fare) 
run  in  less  than  an  hour  to  the  hoteh  and  boarding-houses 
on  the  shores  of  the  lake.  There  are  three  first-class 
hotels :  Gregory's,  Thompson's,  and  Baldwin's.  Gregory's 
(L.  H.  Gregory,  proprietor)  is  the  best  known  of  the  three, 
lighted  with  gas,  and  having  telegraph  and  mail  facilities 
within  its  grounds ;  rooms  for  250  to  300  guests ;  terms, 
$4  per  day,  $21  to  $25  per  week.  At  either  Thompson's 
(N.  L.  Thompson,  proprietor)  or  Baldwin's  (R.  D.  Baldwin, 
proprietor)  there  are  accommodations  for  as  many  more 
boarders,  at  terms  ranging  from  $18  to  $21  per  week,  $4 
per  day.  Bowling  and  billiards  may  be  enjoyed  at  these 
two  houses.    New- York  papers  arrive  at  all  the  hotels  at 


It' 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


207 


Lass 


Jms, 
m's 
dn, 
Lore 


^ese 
at 


11  A.3f.  from  Peekskill.  The  season  begins  about  June  1st, 
and  continues  four  months  ;  a  few  people  come  as  early  as 
May.  Post-ofl5ce  address,  Maliopac,  Putnam  county,,  New- 
York.  Besides  these  hotels,  there  is  a  large  number'  of 
boarding-houses,  able  to  accommodate  some  500  persons. 
The  estimate  we  have  given  of  the  hotel  capabilities  is  a 
comfortable  minimum ;  many  more  persons  could  be 
packed  away  on  occasion,  but  the  hotels  at  Mahopac  are 
not  Saratoga  trunks.  For  example,  Mr.  Gregory  has  sup- 
plied 500  people  with  dinners  on  a  single  day,  and  the 
other  two  houses  are  capable  of  similar  phenomena.  Slos- 
son's,  at  the  east  end,  and  Dean's,  near  the  outlet,  (west,) 
are  the  chief  of  the  boarding-houses,  and  are  capable  of 
ke<3ping  125  gues+s  each,  at  $12  or  $15  to  $18  per  week. 
The  smaller  houses  will  charge  about  $10  to  $15. 

Lake  Mahopac  is  very  beautifully  situated,  14  miles 
from  the  Hudson  at  Peekskill,  and  2  from  the  Croton 
River,  at  an  elevation  of  about  1000  feet  above  tide-water 
and  700  or  800  above  Croton  Dam.  It  has  no  inlet,  being 
spring-fed,  like  Seneca.  The  outlet  is  on  the  western 
side,  and  discharges  the  waters  into  Croton  River  just 
above  the  great  dam.  There  are  three  islands  in  the  lake, 
called  Blackberry,  Petrie,  and  Fairy  Islands — the  latter  the 
smallest,  but  boasting  an  elegant  cottage.  Petrie  has  an 
area  of  10  acres,  and  is  the  favorite  picnicking  ground. 
The  other  island  is  of  four  times  this  extent.  There  is 
some  fishing  in  the  lake,  chiefly  for  black  bass.  The 
roads,  and  the  farming  country  through  which  they  pass, 
are  excellent  and  attractive.  The  favorite  drives  are  to 
Croton  Dam  and  Water- works,  16  miles  south ;  Carmel, 
county-seat  of  Putnam,  5  miles  north-east ;  Somers,  over 
in  Westchester  county,  etc.  But  the  great  charm  of  this 
resort  is  in  the  fact  that  it  is  the  centre,  chief,  and  reser- 


208 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


voir  (with  two  exceptions)  of  a  group  of  23  lakes,  lying 
within  a  circumference  of  12  miles  radius.  All  but  3  or  4 
of  these  lakelets  feed  the  famous  river  which  supplies  the 
metropolis  with  its  drinking-water;  and  Lake  Mahopac, 
""^eing  one  of  these,  presents  therefore  an  additional  attrac- 
tion in  the  beauty  and  sweetness  of  its  contents.  Mahopac 
is  nearly  circular  in  form,  2  miles  in  diameter,  but  about 

9  miles  in  circumference,  owing  to  the  deep  indentations 
which  it  makes  at  many  points.  There  is  a  good  road 
lying  along  the  shore  for  about  half  this  circumference, 
and  it  is  intended  to  complete  it  soon  for  the  entire  dis- 
tance. 

The  nearest  of  the  lakelets  are  but  a  few  rods  distant 
from  Mahopac,  as  follows :  Kirk,  20  rods  west,  1  mile  long ; 
Mud,  50  rods  east,  |r  of  a  mile  in  diameter ;  Wixon,  ^  a 
mile  north,  same  size;  and  Carmel  (north)  and  Gilead, 
(south-east,)  3  miles  distant,  each  about  1  mile  by  i^  a  mile 
in  extent.  Besides  these,  we  may  name  more  particularly 
several  of  the  larger  lakes  of  the  group. 

OsKEWANNA  Lake. — Oskewanna  Lake  is  8  or  9  miles 
distant  from  Peekskill. 

Mr.  Lee  has  established  a  hotel  here,  with  rooms  for  150 
guests ;  terms,  $3  per  day,  $10  to  $14  per  week. 

Osceola  Lake. — Between  Lakes  Mahopac  and  Mohegan, 
5  Tuiles  from  the  former,  at  Jefferson  Valley,  lies  Osceola 
Lake,  about  |-  of  a  mile  in  diameter. 

Jacob's  Hotel  here  was  built  last  summer,  and  will 
accommodate  50  boarders — probably  at  $15  per  week. 

Lake  Mohegan. — Lake  Mohegan  is  at  Jefferson  Valley, 

10  miles  south-west  of  Mahopac,  on  the  Peekskill  road. 
There  is  a  boarding-house  here  (Mr.  Jones's)  capable  of 

keeping  30  or  40  persons ;  terms,  $3  per  day,  $15  per 
week. 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


209 


Lake  Wacabac— 4^  miles  east  of  KatonaL  Station,  on 
tlie  Harlem  Railway,  lias  a  new  Iiotel,  (Mead's,)  where 
some  75  people  may  find  entertair  ment  for  $3  per  day,  $10 
to  $15  per  week. 

Peach  Lake.— This  is  al  >ut  as  far  from  Croton  Falls 
Station  as  Wacabac  from  Katonah,  and  Vail's  Hotel 
resembles  Meade's  in  size  and  charges.  These  two  lakes 
are  each  less  than  a  mile  in  diameter. 


I 


OHATTTATTQUA  LAKE. 

Chautauqua  is  furthest  west  of  the  many  "  eyes  of  the  land- 
scape "  which  brighten  the  face  of  the  great  Empire  State. 
It  lies  in  Chautauqua  county,  which  is  bounded  on  two 
sides  by  Pennsylvania,  and  is  18  miles  long  by  1  to  8  in 
width.  It  is  said  to  be  the  highest  navigable  water  on 
the  American  continent,  being  730  feet  above  Lake  Erie, 
and  1290  above  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  Steamboats  run  from 
Maysville,  at  its  northern  extremity,  to  the  commencement 
of  the  outlet,  whence  small  boats  can  descend  to  the  Alle- 
ghany River.  The  name  it  bears  is  a  corruption  of  an 
Indian  phrase,  signifying  "  a  foggy  place,"  and  was  given 
in  consequence  of  the  mists  which  frequently  rise  from  the 
surface  of  the  lake. 

Hotels. — At  Maysville,  the  Fox  House,  by  Horace  Fox. 
Besides  this,  the  same  proprietor  opened  last  year  a  hotel, 
with  rooms  for  50  or  60  guests,  near  the  depot,  and  on  the 
very  shore  of  the  lake,  called  Chautauqua  Lake  Honse. 
Besides  the  steamer  which  plies  regularly  between  Mays- 
ville and  Jamestown,  there  is  a  neat  and  commodious 
steamer  for  pleasure  parties,  who  wish  "  to  do  the  lake  " 
more  extensively.  Maysville  is  one  of  the  most  healthful 
and  delightful  places  of  resort  in  the  State,  retired  and 


'I'  ■ 


210 


LAKES,    RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


select.  The  Atlantic  and  Great  Western  Railway  trains 
stop  at  Jamestown,  wliicli  is  at  the  southern  extremity  of 
Chautauqua,  449  miles  from  New- York  (changing  from 
Erie  Railway  at  Salamanca).  The  home  residence  of  Gov- 
ernor Fenton  may  be  seen  from  the  car-windows  on  the 
left,  ffoinir  west,  at  this  station. 


fill 

Hi 


Hr 


CANANDAIGUA  LAKE. 

Among  the  "  interior  lakes,"  navigable,  of  the  State  of 
New- York,  is  included  Canandaigua  Lake.  This  beautiful 
sheet  of  water  lie^  668  feet  above  tide- water,  chiefly  within 
Ontario  county,  but  overpassing  slightly  the  north-western 
boundary  of  the  county  of  Yates ;  thus  being  nearly  paral- 
lel with  Crooked  Lake,  which  lies  to  the  south-east,  both 
forming  with  Seneca  and  Cayuga  a  sort  of  inverted  V  upon 
the  map.  Canandaigua  and  Crooked  Lakes  are  13  miles 
apart. 

Canandaigua  is  the  point  of  arrival  for  this  lake,  and  is 
upon  both  the  New- York  Central  and  Erie  routes.  The 
"  Auburn,"  or  "  Old  Road  "  of  the  Central,  brings  the  pas- 
senger to  Canandaigua,  75  miles  west  from  Syracuse,  223 
from  Albany.  The  Erie  Railway  connects  with  Canan- 
daigua by  the  Northern  Central,  formerly  called  at  this 
section  the  "  Canandaigua  Branch  "  of  the  Erie,  from  El- 
mira.  The  Northern  Central  makes  nearly  a  due  northerly 
course  from  Harrisburg,  Pa.,  through  Williamsport,  Pa.,/ 
and  Elmira  and  Watkins,  N.  Y.,  (see  article  on  Seneca 
Lake,)  to  this  town. 

A  steamboat  makes  eight  trips  between  Canandaigua 
and  Naples  (on  the  inlet,  4  miles  above  the  lake)  each  day. 

The  shores  are  generally  high  and  rocky,  forcing  the 
settlements  back  from  the  water  some  distance.    At  Seneca 


LAKES,   ElVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


211 


Point,  10  miles  from  Canandaigua,  there  is  a  landing",  and 
a  pleasant  summer  hotel  called  the  Lake  House,  Mr.  C.  D. 
Castle,  landlord.  Terms,  $2. 50  to  $3  pei  day ;  $12  to  $15 
(probably)  per  week.  This  house  boasts  fine  ball  and  bil- 
liard-rooms, and  a  half-mile  track  near  it,  with  a  beautiful 
grove.  There  is  also  a  deep  glen,  2  miles  long,  in  the  vi- 
cinity ;  and  Canandaigua  is  well-known  for  its  gas-springs, 
chiefly  in  the  hollows  at  Bristol,  East-Bloomfield,  and  Eich- 
mond.    There  is  also  a  sulphur-spring  at  Canandaigua. 


SENECA  LAKE-THE  WATKINS  GLEN. 

The  principal  watering  places  within  a  reasonable  dis- 
tance of  New- York  have  been  so  thoroughly  visited  and 
digested  that  the  pleasure-seeking  public  sigh  for  some 
new  world  to  conquer,  oi  some  new  place  to  "  do."  Not 
all  of  our  roaming  citizens  are  ignorant  of  the  beautiful 
place  which  we  are  about  to  describe,  and  there  is  but  one 
opinion  as  to  its  enchanting  beauty  among  those  who  have 
seen  it. 

The  village  of  Watkins  is  situated  at  the  head  of  Se- 
neca Lake,  distant  about  11  hours'  ride  from  New- York. 
The  route  thither  from  this  city  is  by  the  Erie  Railway  -to 
Elmira,  and  thence  by  the  Nortbern  Central  of  Pennsyl- 
vania to  Watkins — 22  miles  north.  The  village  itself  is  a 
thriving,  well-to-do  town  of  some  3000  inhabitants,  with 
two  large,  excellent  hotels — the  Jefferson  House  and  the 
Fall  Brook  House — and  several  smaller  ones.  It  lies  on 
the  level  valley  close  about  the  south-west  corner  of  the 
lake,  creeping  up  the  hill-side,  and  extending  along  the 
shore. 

The  Glen,  of  which  we  design  more  particularly  to 
write,  is  a  deep  gorge  in  the  hill,  through  which  a  stream 


212 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


of  water  tumbles,  and  reaches  the  plain  at  the  south  end 
of  the  village.  Passing  up  the  main  street,  which  is  called 
Franklin,  about  half  a  mile  from  our  hotel,  we  turn 
abruptly  to  the  right  and  enter  a  huge  amphitheatre, 
whose  lofty  walls  of  perpendicular  rock  seem  to  hang  20ft 
or  300  feet  above  our  heads.  At  the  upper  (west)  end, 
these  walls  approach  close  together  and  seem  to  join,  but, 
in  fact,  they  lap,  and  between  their  jaws,  by  a  winding, 
intricate  stairway,  we  ascend,  and  are  within  what  is 
called  the  First  Glen.  A  narrow  path  has  been  cut  in  the 
rocks  by  which  we  walk  along  somewhat  timidly,  step- 
ping here  and  there  on  a  stray  speck  of  sunshine,  which 
has  leaked  through  a  crevice  in  the  rocks.  Looking  up, 
we  see  that  the  rocks,  at  a  dizzy  height,  have  sloped 
inwardly,  so  as  almost  to  meet  at  the  top.  Trees  grow 
thickly  on  the  brink  and  clinging  to  the  walls.  What 
with  the  trees  and  impending  rocks,  very  little  sunlight 
finds  its  way  within,  and  the  result  is  a  grateful  one  on 
a  hot  day.  This  Glen  is  a  trifle  less  than  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  in  length,  and  at  its  upper  extremity  has  a  beautiful 
waterfall  of  some  70  or  80  feet  in  the  clear.  Ascending 
an  almost  perpendicular  stairway  of  50  odd  steps,  directly  in 
the  face  of  this  fall,  we  climb  up  the  bank,  and  after  rest- 
ing awhile  at  the  Mountain  House,  a  well-kept  refresh- 
ment saloon,  where  sometimes  500  thirsty  visitors  are 
"  creamed  "  and  "  lemonaded  "  at  (Jnce,  we  proceed  with 
our  journey.  The  Second  Glen  is  as  quiet  and  gentle  as 
the  first  was  romantic  and  wild.  It  is  about  1000  feet  in 
length,  with  a  perfectly  level  floor,  over  which  the  stream 
is  spread  not  half  an  inch  deep.  The  sides  are  of  lofty,  per- 
pendicular rock,  and  of  a  perfectly  oval  form.  It  is  called 
the  Amphitheatre,  and  the  r.ame  is  even  more  appropriate 
than  at  the  entrance,  where  we  used  it.    At  the  upper  end 


LAKES,   KIVERS,   AND  MOUNTAINS. 


213 


is  a  fall  similar  to  tlie  ono  at  the  head  of  the  glen  below, 
over  which  we  pass  and  visit  in  succession  the  Third, 
Fourth,  and  Fifth  Glens,  each  one  noted  for  its  romantic  and 
peculiar  grandeur.  The  scenery  is  no  less  wild  than  in 
the  First  Glen,  but  the  rocky  walls  are  not  so  high.  On  the 
other  hand,  they  are  much  nearer  together — in  some  places 
it  being  almost  possible  to  touch  both  sides  with  the  ex- 
tended hands — while  the  stream  passionately  foams  and 
rushes  through  its  smooth  channel  below.  The  succession 
of  cascades,  pools,  rapids,  and  lofty  falls  in  endless  pro- 
fusion almost  bewilders  the  visitor,  and  he  finds  it  impos- 
sible to  keep  the  run  of  all  of  them.  In  the  Fourth  Glen  is 
a  beautiful  fall  called  the  Rainbow  Fall,  formed  by  water 
from  the  hill-side  trickling  down  the  mossy  bank.  The 
path  lies  behind  and  under  this  fall,  and,  when  the  sun 
strikes  the  water,  the  prismatic  effect  is  very  beautiful. 
We  have  now  traveled  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the 
plain,  and  having  come  to  the  end  of  our  journey,  turn 
back  by  the  same  path,  as  far  as  the  Mountain  House. 
After  our  up-hill  journey,  we  are  not  unwilling  to  sit  down 
for  a  few  minutes,  and  can  well  employ  the  time  with  the 
stereoscope  in  looking  over  a  series  of  47  photographs  of 
the  various  scenes  of  interest  on  our  trip,  which  are  as 
fine  specimens  of  out-door  photography  as  are  taken  in 
this  country. 

At  the  Mountain  House  we  leave  the  ravine  and  climb 
the  mountain  which  forms  its  side.  When  we  get  to  the 
top,  a  splendid  panorama  greets  our  eye.  Directly  at  our 
feet,  some  500  or  600  feet  below  us,  lies  the  village.  It 
seems  so  near,  that  imagination  almost  furnishes  the  con- 
versation to  our  ear,  between  those  two  men  at  the  corner, 
or  of  fliat  innocent  flirtation  in  yonder  shady  lawn.  Be- 
yond the  village,  stretching  away  in  front  of  us  for  more 


214 


LAKES,    RIVERS,    AND   MOUNTAINS. 


than  20  miles,  is  Seneca  Lake — its  deep,  never-freezing 
waters,  of  a  deep  sea-green,  sparkling  and  rippling  in  the 
sun.  The  hills  on  either  side  slope  gently  down  to  the 
water  and  are  cultivated  to  the  very  shore.  Within  a  few 
years  it  has  been  discovered  that  the  west  bank  offers  admi- 
rable facilities  f'  r  grape  culture,  and  hundreds  of  acres  are 
now  laid  out  as  vineyards. 

The  hills  about  Watkins  afford  an  almost  endless  suc- 
cession of  drives,  on  which  new  and  constantly  changing 
scenery  unfolds  like  a  panorama.  The  air  is  pure  and 
bracing,  and  the  fierce  heat  of  the  mid-summer  sun  is  tem- 
pered by  the  gentle  breezes  wafted  over  the  waters. 

There  are  two  remarkable  characteristics  of  Seneca 
Lake.  First,  its  great  depth.  The  lake  has  been  sounded 
in  some  parts,  and  bottom  found  at  a  depth  of  over  700  feet. 
In  other  places  the  same  length  of  line  fails  to  reach  the 
bed.  The  bottom  at  some  points  goes  off  almost  perpen- 
dicularly, and  the  writer  of  this  sketch  has  dropped  a 
plummet,  not  50  feet  from  shore,  to  the  depth  of  over  150 
feet  before  reaching  bottom.  Another  peculiarity  is,  that 
the  lake  never  freezes.  But  twice  within  the  recollection 
of  the  inhabitants  have  the  boats  been  stopped  running  by 
ice.  One  occasion  was  in  1855,  and  the  other  during  the 
past  winter.  On  neither  of  these  occasions,  however,  has 
the  entire  surface  been  covered  with  ice :  only  about  one 
third  of  the  length  at  each  end  becomes  frozen,  leaving  10 
or  12  miles  of  open  water  in  the  centre.  The  writer  has 
passed  over  the  lake  in  a  steamboat,  from  dock  to  dock,  in 
January,  with  the  thermometer  marking  10°  below  zero, 
and  not  seen  enough  ice  in  the  water  to  cool  a  pitcher-full. 
There  are  two  passenger-boats  on  the  lake,  which  make 
semi-diurnal  trips  from  Watkins  to  Geneva ;  the  A.  W. 
Lanffdon,   which  leaves  Watkins   for  Geneva    about  8 


LAKES,    RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


215 


o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  returning,  leaves  Geneva  at  4 
P.M.,  and  the  D.  S.  Magee,  Capt.  D.  P.  Dey,  which  leaves 
Geneva  at  9  a.m.,  and  Watkins  at  3  p.m.  The  Magee  is 
the  favorite  with  travelers  generally,  her  accommodations 
being  delightfully  cozy  and  her  table  superb. 

The  most  direct  route  to  Watkins  from  New- York  City 
is  by  the  Erie  Railway  to  Elmira,  274  miles  ;  there  chang- 
ing to  the  Northern  Central  of  Pennsylvania,  (whose  trains 
connect  with  those  on  the  Erie,)  north  22  miles  to  Wat- 
kins. Tickets  can  be  bought  from  New- York  to  Geneva 
for  $7.25,  the  same  fare  as  to  Watkins,  (Geneva  being  a 
competing  point  on  the  New- York  Central,)  and  the  tourist 
at  his  leisure  can  go  down  the  lake.  Under  the  present 
competition,  however,  it  is  cheaper  to  buy  a  ticket  on  the 
Erie  to  Rochester  for  $5,  leave  the  cars  at  Elmira,  and  pay 
65  cents  thence  to  Watkins.  The  Northern  Central  runs 
through  Watkins  to  Canandaigua,  where  direct  connec- 
tions are  made  with  the  New- York  Central  trains,  making 
this  the  shortest  route  from  New- York  to  Niagara  Falls. 


CAYUGA  LAKE  AND  TAGHKANIC  FALLS. 

If,  years  ago,  a  distinguished  poet  remarked  of  Tren- 
ton Falls,  that  it  was  "  a  niche  in  the  long  corridor  of 
travel  between  Albany  and  Bufiklo — a  side-scene  out  of 
ear-shot  of  the  crowd — a  recess  in  a  window,  whither  you 
draw  a  friend  by  the  button  for  the  sake  of  chit-chat  at 
ease,"  surely  the  well-informed  tourist  will  hesitate  to  re- 
peat the  words  at  that  popular  resort  now.  They  more 
fitly  belong  to  the  lakes  Seneca  and  Cayuga — ^more,  too, 
to  the  latter  than  the  former.  Trenton  Falls  are  but  a 
railway-step  from  one  of  the  most  prominent  cities  of  the 
State  ;  these  twin  lakes  lie  upon  that  out-of-the  way,  indi- 
rect, unpopular  branch  of  the  Central  Railway  known  as 


210 


LAKES,   lUVEUS,    AND   MOUNTAINS. 


*'  tho  Old  Road."  Thanks  to  tlio  wcaltli  and  elci^aiico  of 
Geneva,  and  to  the  grovvin;?  fame  of  tho  Wutkins  Glon, 
Seneca  Lake  is  now  tolerably  well-known  to  tourlHts  ;  but 
the  charms  of  ('ayiif?a  have  hitherto  been  proclaimed  only 
by  local  writers,  and  too  often  escape  the  notice  of  the  loi. 
tcrer  alonf?  the  "corridor."  Tho  two  lakes  are  marvel- 
cusly  similar,  in  length,  width,  direction,  and  even  tho 
general  manner  of  their  scenery  ;  whihi  at  tho  southern 
extremity  each  has  her  own  peculiar  attraelion,  yet  with 
the  same  almost  amusing  evidence  of  twiushij).  Henoca 
has  a  rocky,  wooded  ravine,  whose  attraction  is  in  its  walls 
and  passages ;  Cayuga  has  a  ravine,  too ;  but  here  the 
wonder  is  at  the  waterfall,  tho  highest  in  the  State.  The 
two  ravines,  like  the  two  lakes,  are  the  complements  of 
each  other,  and  the  tourist  Vv'ill  be  sure  of  repentance 
some  day  if  he  miss  seeing  them  both. 

Cayuga,  like  Seneca  Lake,  is  reached  best  by  the  New- 
York  Central  Railway,  though  it  is  also  approached  from 
tho  Erie  side.  Route  from  New- York  City :  Hudson  River 
to  Albany  or  Troy ;  Central  Railway  to  Syracuse  direct, 
where  passengers  for  Auburn,  Cayuga,  Q(Mieva,etc.,  change 
cars.  Time,  (n''"'  rail,)  13^  hours  ;  regular  fare,  (consider- 
ably less  ia  Buuimer,)  $7.  Cayuga  Station  (refrcshment- 
saloon  in  the  building)  is  at  the  foot  of  the  lake,  and  steam- 
boats (Aurora  and  Kate  Morgan)  leave  at  9  A.M.  and  3 
P.M.  for  Ithaca.  The  wharf  is  but  a  few  steps  from  the 
rail-track;  th(^  railway  crosses  the  extreme  north  end  of 
the  lake  a  little  beyond  this  station. 

By  the  Erie  Railway,  one  leaves  Cliambers  Street  (Pa- 
vonia)  Ferry,  New- York,  at  7  p.m.,  and  changes  at  Owego 
to  train  leaving  for  Ithaca  at  5.51  a.m.,  where  it  connects 
with  the  steamboats  leaving  for  Cayuga  at  7  A.M.  and  3 
P.M     Fare  to  Ithaca,  $7.50  ;  to  Cayuga,  $8.40. 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND  MOUXTAIXS. 


217 


Loavinpf  Caynga,  and  going  up  the  lake  toward  tlio 
south,  (for  tho  wtranger  must  rcmoiubor  that  tho  waters  of 
New- York  State  are  on  tlie  northerly  side  of  the  Allegliuny 
watiT-sliod,  and  so  flow  from  the  south  toward  tlie  Saint  Law- 
rence and  llio  North-Atlantic,)  tho  first  landing  is  Spring- 
port.  On  the  outcropping  (upper  Helderberg)  limestone 
bluff  here,  the  present  Emperor  of  tho  French  made  liis 
camping^round  for  some  time  hiring  his  residence  in 
America.  The  town  is  a  beautiful  one,  like  all  its  fellows 
here,  and  boasts  a  mill-pond  which  is  wholly  fed  by 
springs,  like  Lake  Seneca.  Aurora,  next  landing,  is  con- 
Bidered  the  prettiest  town  in  New- York  State  ;  anu  whether 
Louis  Napoleon  gave  tho  first  impulse  or  not,  its  people 
certainly  resemble  the  Parisian  government  in  driving 
from  its  borders,  as  fast  as  possible,  all  evidence  of  poverty 
or  toil.  Thus  one  can  almost  see  the  wrathful  glances  of 
these  haughty  townsfolk  toward  a  large  iron  factory  which 
alone  mars  the  beauty  of  tho  bank.  There  are  a  number 
of  very  fine  residences  visible  from  deck,  of  which  Colonel 
(ex-Congressman)  Morgan's  is  the  chief.  The  residence 
of  Mr.  \V.  H.  Bogart,  the  "Sentinel"  of  tho  Wo7-ld,  is 
somcwhnt  inappropriately  located  on  this  inland  shore. 
Further  on,  across  the  lake,  near  Frog  Point,  or  Trumans- 
burg,  as  the  landing  for  Taghkanic  Falls  is  unmelodi- 
ously  named,  tho  effect  produced  by  several  of  the  many 
wild  ravines  of  this  region  will  be  noticed.  They  come 
down  the  sloping  bank  of  the  lake  at  such  regular  inter- 
vals as  to  induce  the  fancy  uf  great  building-lots,  devised 
by  Nature  for  the  benefit  of  imaginative  re?l-estate  asso- 
ciations. But  tho  chief  ravine,  whose  present  misnomer 
is  Ilalsey's  Creek,  will  demanu  and  receive  more  interested 
consideration. 

TAGiiiiANic  Falls.— The  tourist  may  land  here,  visit 


218 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   iVXD   MOUNTAIN^. 


the  falls  hurriedly,  and  gut  back  to  the  wlmrf  ii\  time 
to  take  tho  eanie  boat,  after  it  has  completed  its  trip  to 
Ithaca  and  returned  hitlier.  A  ^viHer  course,  however, 
will  at  least  ho  to  8[)end  a  day  at  tho  Tails.  Leiivieg  tho 
boat,  you  find  a  stage  ready  to  convey  you  up  the  steep 
hill  (1  mile — 25  cents)  to  the  Taghkanic  11ouh«^,  just  in 
front  of  'laghkanic  Falls,  tho  highest  in  New- York 
State.  Mr.  J.  S.  Ilalsey  is  landlord  here,  imd  ims  the  repu- 
tation of  keeping  an  excellent  country  hotel  ;  terms, 
$3.50  per  day,  $14  per  week.  Po8t-olli(;e  address,  Tru- 
mansburg,  Tompkins  County,  Now- York.  Telegraph  sta- 
tion at  Ithaca,  10  miles.  Families  may  bo  e specially  re- 
'Commended  hither. 

Ilalsey,  or  Taghkanic,  Creek  is  one  of  tho  largest  of 
1;he  water-courses  which  intersect  tho  fertile  farming  lands 
lying  between  the  twin  lakes,  Cayuga  and  Seneca.  Tak- 
ing its  rise  in  the  highlands  midway  between  them,  it 
flows  in  an  easterly  course,  until  at  length  it  unites  its 
waters  with  those  of  tho  calm  Cayuga.  Flowing  with  a 
gradual  and  gentle  descent  through  a  rich  and  flourishing 
•country,  its  banks  aro  dotted  with  numerous  mills  and 
manufacturing  establishments,  until,  at  the  distance  of  a 
mile  and  a  half  from  the  lake,  it  would  appear  that  Na- 
ture had  determined  to  check  its  further  progress  by  erect- 
ing an  impassable  barrier.  This  is  a  rocky  ledge,  rising 
some  50  or  CO  feet  directly  in  tho  path  of  the  little  river. 
But  tho  stream  has  succeeded  in  excavating  for  itself  a 
channel  from  100  to  400  feet  in  depth,  and  400  feet  across 
at  its  lower  extremity.  Through  this  yawning  chasm, 
which  is  properly  the  Taghkanic  ravine,  the  victiorious 
waters  hurry  on  to  the  precipice,  half  a  mile  further 
down,  where,  on  account  of  a  difference  in  the  structure 
of  the  rock,  while  the  height  of  the  banks  remains  un- 


LAKES,    KIVKRS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


219 


' 


diminiHli(!(l,  the  etroam  falls  porpondicularly  215  fcot  into 
a  rocky  luisin,  thuH  forming  a  cataract  nioro  tliaa  50  feet 
Lig-lier  than  Niagara. 

The  jagjjr<*(l  rock  rift,  through  which  tho  riv(;r  rolls  bo- 
fore  it  makes  tlio  plunge,  is  some  200  fec^t  in  depth,  tho 
rocky  channel  becoming  a  triangle  at  the  brink,  and  tho 
water  plunges  some  215  feet  (as  already  stated)  more  to 
the  bottorii,  where  tho  ravine  is  upward  of  400  feet  per- 
pcndicuhir.  "  Tho  fall  is,  in  truth,"  says  Dr.  Gcorgo  13. 
Cheever,  who  visited  tho  place  in  1851),  "  tho  Staubbach 
of  Switzerland  most  absolutely  reproduced,  and  of  con- 
centrated beauty  and  grandeur." 

To  obtain  tho  best  view  of  tho  falls,  it  is  necessary  to 
descend  to  the  bed  of  tho  ravine,  and  follow  it  upward 
until  wo  stand  at  tho  foot  of  the  precipice.  Tho  descent 
is  a  very  wearisome  and  displeasing  one,  being  over  seve- 
ral very  rickety,  ill- made  wooden  stair- cases,  which  occupy 
one's  closest  attention  ;  but  tho  ramble  up  tho  ravine  is 
extremely  entertaining.  The  visitor  will  also  bo  amply 
repaid  for  a  journey  along  tho  base  of  the  cliff  to  tho  lake 
—  if,  indeed,  ho  will  not  find  a  walk  of  a  mile  by  that  way 
preferable  to  tho  tedious  climb  up  tho  pseudo-stairway 
again.  A  visit  to  the  ravine  and  Upper  Fall  above,  par- 
ticularly to  the  point  of  tho  triangle  over  which  tho  wa- 
ter of  the  chief  fall  leaps,  is  also  indispensable  to  a  com- 
plete comprehension  of  Taghkanic. 

Ithaca  is  the  principal  town  on  Cayuga  Lake,  38  miles 
from  Cayuga,  and  is  the  southern  terminus  of  the  lake 
and  our  journey  over  it. 

Tliere  are  15  falls  in  and  about  the  town  of  Ithaca,  namely, 
j^ail  ^>eek,  150  feet ;  Forest,  70;  Foaming,  70  ;  Rocky  and 
'ir'piiammer ;  all  on  the  same  stream,  (Fall  Creek  ;)  En- 
licM   ,  ICO,  on  Five-Mile  Creek ;  three  on  Buttermilk  Creek, 


220 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAIXS. 


tlie  second  called  by  its  name,  and  the  third  the  Pulpit 
Fall ;  the  three  beinj[?  respectively  130,  100,  and  30  feet  in 
height ;  the  three  falls  on  Lick  Brook,  of  which  the  high- 
est quite  rivals  Taghkanic,  it  is  thought ;  Well  Fall,  50 
feet,  otherwise  called  the  Cornell,  on  Six-Mile  Creek  ;  the 
Wisner,  the  second,  100  feet,  and  the  third,  Quarry,  on  the 
Cascadilla. 

The  Clinton  House,  S.  D.  Thompson,  proprietor,  can  ac- 
commodate 100  guests  the  year  round.  Terms,  $3  per 
day. 

LAKE  MOHENSICK. 

Mohensick,  together  with  its  neighbors,  Mahopac  and 
Mohegan,  is  a  tributary  of  the  Croton.  We  wisli  that  we 
could  paint  a  picture  or  write  a  verse  about  Mohensick ; 
but  the  experience  of  Byles  Gridley  and  his  dead  book 
constrains  us  to  drop  the  brush  and  to  let  Pegasus  go  to 
grass,  for  there's  plenty  of  it  here.  There  was  a  very 
pretty  picture  of  it  in  the  Academy  of  Design,  last  winter, 
but  the  artist  called  it  by  its  old  Dutch  sobriquet  of 
Crum  Pond. 

The  lake  lies  about  o  miles  east  of  Peekskill,  and  about 
900  feet  above  the  Hudson.  Its  circumference  is  between 
4  and  5  miles,  and  from  the  hills,  which  surround  it,  there 
are  some  of  the  finest  views  our  eyes  have  ever  beheld. 
"  Far  to  the  westward,  through  the  haze,  peak  piled  on 
peak  and  folded  to  the  sky,  the  (Eternal  hills  sweep  and 
spread  and  broaden  like  a  dream.  Grander  than  the  ocean 
itself,  there  is  nothing  more  majestic  than  where  God 
sweeps  his  horizon  with  his  glorious  pencil  of  mountain 
blue." 

LAKE  LUZERNE. 

Luzerne  is  23  miles  by  the  Adirondack  Railway  from 
Saratoga.  This  road  was  started  15  or  30  years  ago  with  the 
design  of  going  to  Sackett's  Harbor.     It  met  a  good  many 


it 
in 
h~ 
)0 
le 


31 


LAKES,    KIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


221 


^ 


reverses,  and  passed  tlirou<?li  the  hands  of  a  number  of 
American  companies.  In  1859,  some  wealthy  English  capi- 
talists took  hold  of  it,  but  became  frightened  at  the  com- 
mencement of  the  war,  and  refused  to  put  any  more  money 
into  it.  Finally,  2  or  3  years  ago,  Mr.  Durant,  of  the  Union 
Pacific  Hail  way,  came  into  it,  and  it  was  built  to  Luzerne 
and  3  miles  beyond,  and  commenced  running.  A  charter 
was  obtained  to  run  it  from  Saratoga  to  a  point  on  Lake 
Ontario,  a  little  above  Cape  Vincent.  It  is  designed  to 
have  it  pass  the  Adirondack  Iron- Works,  and  develop 
those  immense  mines  of  the  best  ore  in  the  world.  It  will 
also  pass  through  a  vast  tract  of  great  lumber  wealth 
which  has  heretofore  been  inaccessible.  The  road  runs 
from  Saratoga  straight  up  into  the  mountains.  It  ascends 
700  feet  the  first  6  miles,  and  toward  Luzerne  it  is  built 
over  a  succession  of  hills  and  gorges  and  streams  that 
render  the  scenery  exceedingly  jiicturesque.  Sometimes 
the  sandy  peaks  rise  70  or  80  feet  above  the  track,  and  a 
few  rods  further  the  train  will  pass  over  a  trestle-work  at 
an  elevation  of  as  many  feet  from  the  valley  below.  One 
trestle-work  is  1310  feet  long,  and  31  feet  high  in  the 
highest  part — much  longer  than  the  long  trestle-work  on 
the  Athens  line.  The  scene,  in  passing  over  the  Sacan- 
daga,  near  where  it  joins  the  Hudson,  is  especially  fine. 
The  bridge  must  be  400  or  500  feet  in  length,  and  it  is  96 
feet  high  from  the  bed  of  the  river  to  the  track.  At  one 
side,  half  the  distance  down,  is  a  bridge,  which  used  to  be 
considered  rather  high,  connecting  with  the  wagon  road, 
on  a  lower  point  of  the  side-hill.  The  railway  passes 
within  a  mile  of  Corinth  Falls.  Above  the  Falls  the  river  is 
expanded ;  but  as  it  approaches  there,  it  contracts  between 
the  limestone  rocks  to  a  width  of  50  feet,  and  leaps  down  a 
precipice  CO  feet  high,  in  one  unbroken  sheet.  From  the 
road  are  seen  also  the  Catskills  in  the  distance  on  the 


222 


LAKES, 


RIVERS,   AND  MOUNTAINS. 


f    I 


,1* 
III 


south-west,  and  the  nearer  Kaidairosseras  Range  on  the 
east. 

Arrived  at  Luzerne,  we  pass  over  the  Hudson,  which,  at 
the  north  of  the  bridge,  rushes  through  a  narrow  gorge 
of  rocks  not  more  than  20  feet  wide  at  places,  expand- 
ing below  the  bridge  over  a  level  plain  to  a  shallowness 
which  enables  one  to  ford  it  without  much  difficulty.  From 
this  high  bridge  it  is  said  that  a  man  once  sprang  into  the 
rapids  for  fun ;  and  when  he  came  out,  he  was  so  fright- 
ened that  he  declared  that  he  "  wouldn't  'a  done  it  agin 
for  $5." 

Here,  near  the  Hudson,  in  the  same  house  which  Gen. 
Dix  occupied,  Mr.  Pierrepont,  of  Brooklyn,  in  honor  of 
whom  Pierrepont  street  in  that  city  was  named,  resides. 
His  magnificent  residence  on  Brooklyn  Heights  overlooks, 
across  the  East  River  and  the  Battery,  the  mouth  of  the 
Hudson,  where  it  is  2  miles  wide.  His  summer  residence 
here  overlooks  the  Hudson,  narrowed  to  a  width  of  20  feet. 

A  little  further  along  is  Mr.  George  Rockwell's  famous 
and  favorite  hotel,  where  venison  and  trout  are  a  staple 
dish,  and  where  the  happiness  of  the  host  is  in  exact  ratio 
to  the  appetite  of  his  guests.  Mr.  Rockwell's  two  sons 
keep  the  best  house  on  Lake  George. 

And,  by  the  way,  it  may  be  mentioned  that  this  is  a 
very  picturesque  route  to  Horicon.  From  Luzerne  to  the 
lake  the  stage  ride  is  only  about  10  i  'les,  over  a  very 
pleasant  road,  while  by  Moreau  it  is  1^  miles  over  wea- 
risome though  beautiful  road. 

There  are  about  150  people  generally  stopping  for  a 
time  at  Luzerne.  Among  other  amusements  they  have 
picnics.  You  cross  the  lake  in  boats,  and  land  at 
Stewart's  Bridge.  Thence  you  take  wagons,  drawn  each 
by  two  yoke  of  oxen,  by  a  winding  road  up  the  mountain. 


\l 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAIKS. 


223 


f 


Mr.  Lebeau,  Conf^rcssman  from  Long  Island,  lias  a 
beautiful  summer  residence  overlooking  Lake  Luzerne. 
Out  on  the  lake,  rowing  with  his  family,  we  found  Mr.  L. 
J.  A.  Papineau,  of  Montreal,  the  son  of  the  leader  of  the 
Papineau  Rebellion  in  Canada,  in  1836.  A  reward  being 
offered  for  his  tiead,  he  escaped  across  the  border  in  a  tin 
box,  in  a  peddler's  wagon,  with  holes  in  it  to  supply  air, 
and  took  refuge  with  Chancellor  Walworth,  of  Saratoga. 


CEOTON  LAKE. 

Croton  Lake  is  most  directly  reached  by  the  Harlem  Rail- 
way cars  to  Mount  Kisco,  a  promising  village  37  miles 
from  New- York.  The  past  few  years  have  witnessed  a 
remarkable  increase  in  its  size  and  importance.  A  new 
depot  is  now  occupied,  and  a  special  train,  leaving  New- 
York  at  6  P.M.  (extended  from  White  Plains)  was  escab- 
lished  last  year.  Also,  it  may  be  mentioned,  the  Albany 
express  makes  this  one  of  its  stopping-places.  The  lake  is 
about  3  miles  westward,  and  the  drive  is  '^ery  charming 
over  a  rolling  country  characteristic  of  Putnam  county, 
and  the  eye  is  delighted  with  views  of  beautiful  and  diver- 
sified scenery. 

Winding  along  may  be  seen  the  sparkling  Kisco,  tracing 
its  course  through  green  meadows  and  leafy  groves,  until 
it  finally  joins  the  lake.  Soon  we  reach  the  lake,  most 
pleasantly  situated  in  a  valley ;  it  is  about  6  miles  long, 
with  an  average  width  of  about  one  eighth  of  a  mile. 

There  is  no  hotel  here,  save  at  the  Dam  ;  but  a  number 
of  farmers,  in  the  summer  months,  receive  boarders.  Excel- 
lent fare  is  obtainable,  and  moderate  charges  are  the  rule, 
not  the  exception. 

About  2  miles  from  the  dam  is  Pine's  Bridge,  made  his 
torical  from  the  well-known  fact  of  its  being  located  near 


224 


LAKES,   EIVKRS,   AND   MOUNTAIx  ";. 


i','^. 


1: 


1 4' ' 


tlie  spot  wliere  Major  Andre  crossed,  tlie  same  day  of  his 
capcure,  near  Tarrjtown.  Close  by  this  locality  are  the 
summer  residences  of  Mr.  Dunsconib,  and  Mr.  George  E. 
L,  Hyatt,  merchant,  of  New- York. 

The  shape  of  the  lake  is  rather  irregular,  which  we  may 
attribute  to  its  origin  as  a  river ;  this  adds  to  its  attraction 
by  affording,  by  its  many  little  coves  and  miniature  capes, 
a  novelty  of  scene  as  we  sail  in  admiration  over  its  surface. 
The  views  of  the  eurrounding  country,  especially  from  the 
summits  of  the  neighboring  hills,  arc  very  attractive.  A 
varied  landscape  of  woodland  scenery,  and  undulating  hills 
clothed  in  emerald,  or  the  golden  hue  of  the  ripening  grain 
greet  the  eye,  gently  relieved  by  the  placid  waters  below. 

At  the  head  of  the  lake,  in  the  vicinity  of  a  small  moun- 
tain known  as  Muscootp.,  the  scenery  is  quite  wild  and  pic- 
turesque. 

Here  may  the  true  lover  of  the  country  find  scope  for 
enjoyment ;  for  there  is  a  charm  in  the  aeclusion  and  sere- 
nity of  the  place  that  can  not  fail  to  meet  his  sincere  appre- 
ciation. Untrammeled  with  the  social  requirements,  and 
removed  from  the  glitter  and  frivolity  of  fashionable 
watering-places,  he  can  here  consult  happiness  and  com- 
fort, and  freely  partake  of  the  pleasure  Nature  offers  to  her 
votaries. 

"  Rejoice,  O  Croton  1  in  thy  summer  pride, 
Decked  forth  in  beauty  as  an  Eastern  bride. 
The  green  hills  round  thee  beam  with  azure  smiles, 
And  fairy-like  peep  out  thy  sunny  isles ; 
Thy  placid  bosom  wooed  with  soft  embrace, 
As  heaven's  own  hues  are  mirrored  on  thy  face, 
Dear  as  the  charm  we  linger  on  to  see, 
That  marks  the  couch  of  sleeping  infancy. 
Then  have  I  gazed,  as  if  on  beauty's  cheek, 
Thy  look  so  calm  and  gentle,  pure  and  meek, 


«» 


i 


K!  11 


LAKES,    RIVERS,   AND    MOUNTAINS. 


225 


Breathing  such  lore  and  tenderness,  we  might  deem 
Earth's  cares  and  frailties  were  but  all  a  dream ; 
The  world  shut  out— no  sorrow  could  prevail 
Within  the  precincts  of  this  peaceful  vale  ; 
For  thy  fair  stream,  soft  murmuring  as  it  flows, 
Soothes  every  wayward  passion  to  repose ; 
'Mid  bnsy  Fancy's  pictures  we  might  dwell, 
Aud  close  our  days  within  thy  quiet  dell." 


CROOKED  LAKE. 


There  is  no  more  pleasing  summer  retreat  in  the  State 
of  New- York  tlian  Crooked  Lake,  or,  as  die  newspapers 
sav  it  is  to  be  hereafter,  Keuka  Lake.  It  is  accessible  by 
the  Erie  and  Northern  Central  Railways  through  Elmira 
to  Penn  Yan,  23  miles  beyond  Watkins,and  319  from  New- 
York  City.  Fare,  $7.50.  A  new  steamboat  is  to  be  placed 
upon  the  lake  this  summer,  and  will  ply  daily  betw^een 
Penn  Yan,  at  the  foot,  or  north  end,  and  Hammondsport, 
in  Urbana  township,  at  the  head  water,  the  latter  the 
centre  of  the  famous  grape-growing  and  wine-making 
region.  The  sheltered  situation  of  the  hill-slopes  about 
the  foot  of  the  lake  affords  peculiar  opportunities  for  grape- 
culture.  Both  towns  are  of  considerable  importance,  and 
visitors  will  find  ample  hotel  accommodations  at  low  rates. 

The  lake  is  situated  within  the  limits  of  both  Steuben 
and  Yates  counties,  and  is  about  18  miles  long,  with  a 
breadth  at  the  greatest  of  1^  miles.  At  the  north  end  it 
is  divided  by  a  promontory  of  great  beauty  into  two  forks 
or  branches,  one  5,  and  the  other  8  or  9  miles  long.  The 
scenery  along  the  shores  is  of  a  very  picturesque  character, 
and  the  place  is  quite  a  favorite  resovt  with  Western  New- 
York  people. 


226 


LAKES,   RIVERS,   AND   MOUNTAINS. 


iiA 


Ik'  • 


OWASCO  LAKE. 

A  favorite  resort  for  Syracuse  people  is  O'ifasco  Lake,  a 
"beautiful  sheet  of  water  11  miles  long,  and  from  one  half 
to  three  quarters  of  a  mile  in  breadth.  It  is  situated  in 
Cayuga  county,  and  is  much  admired  for  the  boldness  of 
the  bluffs  which  shut  it  i  through  much  of  its  length. 
The  steamboat  Owasco  makes  daily  trips  from  Moravia  to 
Owasco  Village.  At  the  former  place  there  are  the  Mora- 
via House  and  the  Skidmore,  the  latter,  we  underptand, 
being  refurnished  and  refitted  for  this  summer.  Terms, 
about  $2.50  per  day ;  $16  per  week.  Board  may  also  be 
obtained  at  the  farm-houses  which  mark  the  shore  all 
through  its  length.  There  is  a  small  hotel  or  tavern,  call- 
ed the  Bennington  House,  at  Owasco,  at  the  head  of  the 
lake,  at  which  the  most  primitive  prices  which  remain 
in  this  "  greenback  era  "  will  be  found. 

There  are  a  number  of  places  of  interest  to  people 
desirous  of  quiet  country  retreats  ;  such  are  Martin's  Cor- 
ners, Scipio,  Smith's  Corners,  etc.  Auburn,  on  the  New- 
York  Central  Railway,  (under  the  head  of  which  it  may  be 
found  mentioned  at  length,)  is  7  miles  from  the  lake,  and  is 
its  nearest  railway  station.  It  stands  upon  Owasco  Outlet. 
Upon  the  eastern  tributary  of  this  stream,  in  the  town  of 
Moravia,  is  a  cascade  called  Dry  Falls,  because  it  ceases  to 
flow  in  the  summer.  A  little  below  this  invisible  cascade 
is  a  circular  recess  in  the  face  of  the  perpendicular  pre- 
cipice, 42  feet  deep,  and  surrounded  by  a  limestone  arch, 
55  feet  high  and  12  feet  long.  Upon  this  arch  rises  a  lofty 
hill  covered  with  trees  of  a  primitive  forest.  There  is 
much  else  of  interest  in  and  about  the  lake  ;  such  as  Mill 
Brook  Fall,  80  feet  high ;  a  large  spring  of  highly  inflam- 
mable gas,  (carburetted  hydrogen,)  in  the  neighboring  low- 
lands ;  a  quarry  of  fine  flagging-stone,  etc. 


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SPEIKGS  AN"D  FALLS. 


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/*» 


THE  IIIXERAL  STRIi^GS  OF  NEW-YOEK. 


Tho  Empire  State  is  the  most  notable  in  tlio  North  for 
the  abundance  and  excellence  of  its  uiermal  and  mineral 
springs ;  tlie  chief  one,  at  Saratoga,  having  such  attrac- 
tions as  fairly  to  outrival  the  great  cataract  at  the  opposite 
extremity  of  the  State  in  the  interest  of  tho  summer  tou- 
rist. Saratoga  and  Syracuse  have  the  only  important 
saline  springs  ;  there  are  no  chalybeate  nor  carbonated 
springs,  and  only  one  or  two  localities  where  thermal 
waters  attract  visitors.  The  other  resorts  belonging  un- 
der tills  head  are  of  the  sulphur  class,  and  are  quite  nu- 
merous.   We  shall  consider  all  these  separately  below. 

SARATOGA  SPRINGS. 

Saratoga  is  a  town  of  about  8000  inhabitants,  built  up 
in  a  somewhat  rambling  and  uneven  manner,  but  with 
many  pleasant  streets  overhung  with  shade-trees.  About 
15,000  people  visit  it  during  the  summer. 

How  TO  GET  TO  IT. — It  is  32  miles  above  Albany,  and 
on  the  route  to  Lake  George.  .The  Hudson  River  boats  to 
Albany,  and  the  Albany,  Saratoga,  and  Whitehall  Railway 
from  Albany,  is  the  pleasantest  route  from  New- York.  At 
Cohoes,  on  this  railway,  the  Cohoes  Falls  can  be  seen  from 
the  west  windows  of  the  cars.  Passengers  from  the  West, 
East,  and  North  take  the  cars  from  Albany,  or  come  down 
by  way  of  Lake  George.     From  the  depot  to  Congress 


N 


SPRINGS  AXD   FALLS. 


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Si)rinn:f?,  or  to  tho  Inrr^o  hotels,  is  only  two  or  tlirco  min- 
utes' walk. 

Tho  followhiir  is  a  tahlo  of  distances  from  various  cities 
in  tho  Union  to  Saratoga  Springs  : 


Washington, 41-2 

New-York, 1.^2 

IJoHton a32 

PhiliuU'Iplilii, 274 

Rvltlmore, 372 

Albany 32 

Troy 31 

Cincinnati 714 

Cliicugo, 841 


Mi/cff. 

Niajjara, 811 

Ouebcc 803 

Montreal 213 

Wliitc  Mountains, 323 

Portland, liiO 

St.  Louis, 1030 

LouiHvillo K76 

liichmond, 543 

New-Orlcuns, 2203 


The  Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  Railway  passes  through 
the  village,  connecting,  at  Troy,  with  the  Hudson  River 
and  Harlem  Railways  from  New- York ;  at  Allmny,  with 
the  People's  Line  of  Steamers  on  the  Hudson  River,  and  tho 
Boston  and  Alhany  Railway  from  the  east ;  at  Sclienectady, 
with  the  New- York  Central  Railway  from  the  west ;  and 
at  Rutland,  with  tho  Rutland  and.  Burlington  Railway 
from  both  north  and  east ;  and  at  Whitehall,  with  tho 
Lake  Champlain  feteamers.  Trains  on  the  Rensselaer  and 
Saratoga  Railway  run  each  way  twice  a  day  during  the 
winter  months,  and  three  or  more  times  a  dav  during  the 
summer  months,  connecting  at  above-named  points  with 
trains  and  steamers  from  all  portions  of  the  Northern, 
Eastern,  and  Western  States,  and  Canada.  Passengers  by 
the  day-boats  on  the  Hudson  River  have  a  full  view  of  the 
magnificent  Highlands  of  the  Hudson,  and  of  the  Catskill 
Mountains,  and  reach  Saratoga  the  same  evening.  Lake 
Horicon,  Lake  Champlain,  the  Green  Mountains,  the  Thou- 
sand Islands,  Niagara  Falls,  Trenton  Falls,  Richfield,  Sha- 
ron and  Lebanon  Springs,  are  all  within  a  day's  travel  of 
Saratoga. 

The  principal  street  of  the  town  is  Broadway,  on  which 


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8 


are  situated  the  l&xgQ  hotels,  and  which  leads  to  the  Con- 
gress and  Columbia  Springs,  and  the  Congress  Spring 
Grove. 

This  grove  and  park  is  owned  and  kept  in  order  by  the 
Congress  and  Empire  Spring  Company,  and  is  exceedingly 
beautiful.  A  hill,  in  the  shape  of  a  horse-shoe,  covered 
with  handsome  trees  and  laid  out  in  smooth  walks,  encir- 
cles the  low  ground  in  which  the  spring  is  situated. 

At  the  other  side  of  the  grove  is  Circular  street,  on 
which  are  the  handsomest  residences  in  the  place.  There 
are  also  fine  residences  on  Franklin  street,  on  the  upper 
and  lower  ends  of  Broadway,  and  on  other  streets.  The 
two  principal  hotels.  Congress  Hall  and  Union  Hall,  stand 
opposite  each  other,  near  Congress  Spring  and  Grove.  A 
little  further  down,  and  with  the  Wasliington  Spring  in 
its  grounds,  is  the  Clarendon.  North  of  Union  Hall  are 
the  American  Hotel  and  the  Marvin  House. 


THE  HOTELS. 

Congress  Hall. — The  new  hotel,  which  has  just  been 
completed,  on  the  site  of  the  old  Congress  Hall,  (burned 
May,  1866,)  is  said  to  be  the  largest  hotel  in  the  country. 
It  is  situated  on  the  east  side  of  Broadway,  with  the  Union 
Hotel  opposite  it  on  the  west,  and  the  Congress  Spring  and 
Grove  opposite  it  on  the  south.  It  has  a  front  of  400  feet 
on  Broadway,  and  300  feet  on  Spring  street,  and  runs 
through  from  Broadway  to  Putnam  street.  The  old  Con- 
gress Hall  had  only  198  feet  front.  The  new  house  is 
made  so  much  larger  by  the  addition  of  41  feet  on  the 
south,  bought  from  the  grouiids  occupied  by  the  Congress 
Spring  bottling-house,  and  by  the  addition  of  40  feet  on 
the  north,  which  was  left  by  cutting  through  a  new  street. 
It  stands  upon  a  steep  side-hill,  so  that  there  are  two  stores 


SPRINGS   AND   PALLS. 


in  the  rear  and  a  row  of  eleven  stores  at  the  south  side, 
under  the  main  or  first  floor. 

The  foundations,  which  rest  almost  entirely  upon  the 
solid  rock  underlying  Saratoga,  were  laid  October,  1867. 
The  new  Congress  Hall  is  built  entirely  of  brick,  and  as 
an  additional  precaution  against  fire,  has  seven  fire-proof 
brick  walls  extending  through  the  whole  structure,  from 
foundation  to  roof;  so  that  if  a  fire  should  break  out  in  any 
part,  it  could  be  checked  before  communicating  with  otaer 
parts  of  the  house.  The  foundations  are  of  iron,  stone,  and 
brick;  and  there  is  no  connection  by  wooden  timbers 
between  the  seven  different  compartments. 

The  square  space  between  the  front  building  and  the 
two  wings  is  prettily  laid  out,  and  planted  with  trees,  with 
a  balcony  overlooking  it.  The  front  of  the  building  has  a 
French  roof ;  and  is  five  stories  in  height.  The  front  piazza 
is  20  feet  wide  and  240  feet  long  on  Broadway,  and  14  feet 
wide  and  60  feet  long  on  Spring  street.  In  the  centre  of 
the  top  is  an  observatory,  carried  up  to  the  height  of 
another  story,  containing  additional  rooms.  It  is  75  feet 
from  the  ground,  thus  affording  a  view  of  all  the  vicinity ; 
and  being  60  feet  in  length  by  48  feet  in  width,  ^vili  accom- 
modate a  large  number  of  people  who  desire  to  sit  in  this 
elevated  position  and  receive  the  benefit  of  the  evening 
breezes.  At  the  ends,  also,  are  observatories,  constructed 
in  the  same  style  with  the  one  in  the  centre,  40  by  35  feet. 
These  are  elegantly  designed,  and  add  greatly  to  the 
beauty  of  the  building. 

The  house  is  built  as  a  resort  for  the  most  fashionable 
people  who  visit  the  place.  The  rooms  are  large  and  com- 
modious. Every  hall  is  10  feet  wide,  running  the  whole 
length  (400  feet)  of  the  front  on  each  floor.  Every  modern 
appliance  for  convenience,  comfort,  or  luxury  that  can  be 


SP.TIINGS  AND  FALLS. 


4 


T 


found  in  any  Now- York  hotel,  is  brought  into  requisition 
here.  A  row  of  tall  and  thriving  elm-trees  stands  in  front 
of  the  house.  It  has  a  beautiful  dining-room,  which  can 
also  be  used  a,?  a  ball-room,  and  has  also  very  large  parlors 
for  nightly  hops. 

The  building  was  erected  by  Mr.  Henry  H.  Hawthorne, 
well  known  as  one  of  the  influential  men  of  the  place,  and 
as  the  proprietor  of  the  old  Congress  Hall.  The  wealthy 
citizens,  appreciating  the  loss  to  the  town  by  the  burn- 
ing of  Congress  Hall,  held  several  meetings,  August,  1806, 
to  take  into  consideration  the  subject  of  rebuilding  it. 
It  was  finally  decided  that  Mr.  Hawthorne  should  give  a 
mortgage  of  $400,000  on  the  building  as  completed,  the 
furniture,  the  land,  and  also  the  land  and  buildings  occu- 
pied for  wash-house,  etc.,  and  that  subscriptions  should  be 
taken  for  bonds  based  on  this  mortgage.  The  principal 
is  payable  in  ten  annual  payments,  commencing  the  first 
day  of  September,  1870,  and  included  in  the  coupons.  The 
mortgage  was  given  and  recorded,  and  subscriptions  made 
by  citizens,  not  only  of  Saratoga,  but  of  New- York,  Boston, 
Chicago,  Cincinnati,  St.  Louis,  New-Orleans,  and  other 
cities. 

The  Congress  opens  on  the  15th  of  June.  The  price  is 
ordinarily  $4.50  per  day.  It  has  800  rooms,  and  accom- 
modates about  1300  people. 

The  Union  Hotel. — Tils  hotel,  which  is  kept  by  the 
Leland  Brothers,  was  the  first  hotel  built  at  the  Springs, 
and  was  commenced  in  the  year  1800,  and  opened  in  the 
spring  of  1802.  It  was  built  by  Mr.  Gideon  Putnam,  and 
was  called  Putnam's  Tavern.  It  was  surrounded  by  a 
wilderness ;  there  were  only  two  or  three  cabins  in  the 
vicinity,  and  though  it  was  then  only  70  feet  front,  it  was 
considered  a  very  large  building  for  such  a  place.     Con- 


0  SPRINGS  AND  FALLS. 

gress  Spring  had  been  discovered  only  8  years,  (tliougli  the 
High  Rock  Spring  had  been  visited  by  Sir  William  John- 
son  24  years  previous ;)  but  Putnam  was  n  Yankee  from 
Sutton,  Mass.,  and  he  saw  there  was  a  great  future  for  the 
place.  His  sign  at  that  time  was  a  rudely-painted  repre- 
sentation of  the  original  General  Israel  Putnam  entering 
the  den  of  the  wolf.  Putnam  died  in  1812,  and  his  two 
sons,  Rockwell  and  Washington  Putnam,  kept  it  until 
1849.  Mr.  Henry  H.  Hawthorne,  proprietor  of  the  old 
Congress  Hall  and  of  the  new  Congress  Hall,  during  that 
year  bought  out  Rockwell's  interest ;  and  in  1854  Mr.  Ains- 
worth  bought  Washington's  interest.  In  the  fall  it  was 
sold  to  George  Putnam,  who  kept  it  until  1864,  when  it 
was  bought  by  Leland  Brothers.  It  has  received  vast  addi- 
tions and  improvements,  until  it  now  covers  with  its  wings, 
its  grounds,  its  opera-house,  and  its  adjacent  buildings,  a 
whole  block  of  7  acres.  It  is  650  feet  in  length.  Its 
grounds  are  beautifully  shaded  by  elms,  under  which  the 
band  plays  every  afternoon ;  its  broad  piazzas  and  elegant 
parlors  afford  seats  and  promenades  for  crowds  of  splen- 
didly-dressed ladies.  The  interior  of  the  opera-house  is 
handsomer  than  any  building  in  town.  There  is  a  large 
ball-room,  and  there  are  billiard  and  bowling-alleys  for 
both  ladies  and  gentlemen.  The  dining-room  is  250  feet 
long,  53. feet  wide,  and  20  feet  high,  and  will  seat  1200 
people. 

The  Union  can  accommodate  1200  peo^jle  easily.  Mr.  0. 
G.  Brown,  with  all  the  details  of  800  rooms  continually  in 
his  mind's  eye,  disposes  of  the  guests  in  the  most  affable 
and  expeditious  manner,  no  matter  how  many  there  are, 
or  how  excited  they  may  be ;  and  Dr.  Del  Corral,  who 
understands  half  a  dozen  languages,  hears  the  complaints 
of  any  of  the  foreign  guests  who  prefer  to  express  them- 


r 


i 


SPRINGS  AND  PALLS. 


)0 


10 

Its 


I 

i 


selves  in  their  native  tongue.  Warren,  or  William,  or 
George  Leland  is  always  on  hand,  and  nobody  doubts  the 
ability  of  any  gentleman  of  that  name  "  to  keep  a  hotel." 

It  will  open  June  1st.  The  price  will  be  $35  per  week, 
or  $4.50  per  day. 

The  Clarendon. — This  hotel  was  built  in  1860,  and  is 
kept  by  Charles  Leland,  who  is  also  the  lessee  of  the  Delavan 
Ilouse,  Albany.  It  is  very  aristocratic,  and  accommodates 
the  wealthy  visitors  who  prefer  to  keep  a  little  outside  of 
the  whirl  of  gayety  which  characterizes  the  larger  hotels. 
It  is  magnificently  circled  by  elms,  faces  Congress  Grove, 
and  has  the  Washington,  or  Champagne,  Spring  in  its 
grounds,  from  which  one  can  get  spring-water  lemonades. 
It  accommodates  about  500  persons.  It  opens  on  June 
1st,  with  the  same  prices  as  the  Congress. 

The  American. — This  house  is  on  the  next  block  north 
of  the  Union,  and  is  kept  by  Mr.  Wm.  McCaffrey.  Mr. 
Breslin,  who  was  associated  with  Mr.  McCaffrey  last  sum- 
mer, has  been  captured  by  the  Congress.  The  American 
is  a  very  pleasant  house,  and  accommodates  about  350 
guests.  It  is  open  all  the  year  round,  with  a  scale  of  prices 
not  quite  as  high  as  the  larger  hotels. 

Other  Hotels  and  Houses. — The  Marvin  House  will 
accommodate  250 ;  the  Continental,  200 ;  the  Columbian, 
200 ;  the  Pavilion,  100 ;  the  Everett,  100 ;  the  Wasliing- 
ton,  100 ;  the  Mont  Eagle,  100 ;  White's,  100 ;  Dr.  Hamil- 
ton's Medical  Institute,  150;  Dr.  Strong's  Water  Cure, 
100;  Dr.  Bedortha's  Water  Cure,  150;  Mrs.  Wilbur's,  100; 
the  Empire,  75  ;  the  Commercial,  75 ;  the  New- York,  50 ; 
the  Broadway,  50 ;  the  Mount  Pleasant,  50. 

At  the  water-cures,  and  at  the  Continental  and  Colum- 
bian, many  clergymen  and  people  who  do  not  mingle  in 
fashionable    frivolities,   make    their   headquarters.     On 


8 


SPRINGS  AND  FALLS. 


Franklin  street  there  arc  a  number  of  fine  boarding- 
houses,  including  Mrs.  Weeks's  and  Mrs.  Spooner's,  and 
also  many  in  the  upper  part  of  the  town,  which  are  more 
quiet  than  the  hotels,  and  quite  pleasant,  with  shaded 
piazzas  and  pretty  croquet-grounds.  Botird  can  bo  ob- 
tained at  prices  ranging  from  $10  to  $20  per  week. 


!l 


THE  SPRINGS. 

High  Rock. — This  spring  is  the  first  the  waters  of 
which  were  drunk  by  a  white  man,  and  it  is  the  natural 
curiosity  of  Saratoga.  It  was  visited  by  Sir  William  John- 
son in  17G7,  while  Saratoga  was  yet  a  wilderness ;  the  In- 
dians bringing  him  to  it  on  a  litter,  so  that  he  might  par- 
take of  its  healing  waters. 

The  water  flows  from  an  aperture,  or  cylindrical  open- 
ing, a  foot  in  diameter,  in  a  conical-shaped  rock,  3i  feet  in 
height  and  24J-  feet  in  circumference.  This  rock  is  the 
result  of  the  deposits  of  the  mineral  substance  of  the 
water.  The  water,  flowing  up  through  the  centre,  and 
running  over  its  sides  for  hundreds  of  years,  increased 
it  to  its  present  dimensions.  At  some  period  not  long 
ago,  when,  as  the  Indians  say,  the  Great  Spirit  became 
angry,  the  water  ceased  to  flow  over  the  rock,  but  re- 
mained at  a  short  depth  from  the  top  of  the  opening,  so 
that  it  could  be  dipped  out.  The  cause  of  the  stoppage 
of  the  overflow  is  explained  on  the  more  material  theory 
that  the  rock  was  cracked  by  the  fall  of  a  tree. 

In  1866 — a  century  after  its  discovery  by  the  white 
man — Messrs.  Seymour  and  Ainsworth  and  William  Mc- 
Caffrey bought  thf  spring  and  made  preparations  to  tube 
it.  A  slight  excavation  showed  that  the  rock  only  ex- 
tended a  few  inches  below  the  surface,  and  it  was  easily 


oarding- 
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irc  more 
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I  be  ob- 


aters  of 

natural 

im  Jolin- 

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il.T:-..-'.''"''  , 

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5  .•   1 


, 


SPRINGS  AND  FALLS.  0 

removed.  Within  it  was  a  chamber  about  two  feet  in 
diameter,  and  below,  a  pit  formed  by  tlio  bubblinif  wa- 
ter, about  10  feet  in  depth,  in  which  were  found  a  largo 
number  of  tumblers  lost  in  dipping  water.  All  around, 
the  soil  was  filled  with  incrustations  formed  by  the 
deposit  from  the  water;  but  immediately  beneath  tho 
rock  lay  tho  body  of  a  tree,  18  inches  in  diameter,  which 
still  retained  its  fom.,  and  was  sufficiently  firm  to  be  sawed 
in  sections  and  pulled  out.  This  tree  must  have  fallen 
before  the  formation  of  tho  surface  rock  commenced,  and 
had  probably  lain  there  hundreds  of  years.  Several  feet 
further  down,  the  body  of  an  oak,  8  inches  in  diameter, 
was  found,  which  has  suffered  very  little  decay. 

The  spring  has  been  tubed  down  to  tho  solid  rock  from 
which  it  flows ;  a  tasteful  pagoda  has  been  erected  over 
it,  and  a  bottling-house  by  the  side,  and  the  water  is  notv 
sold  very  extensively. 

Congress  Spring. — ^More  of  the  water  of  this  spring  is 
sold  and  drunk  than  of  any  other.  It  is  owned  by  a  com- 
pany, which  also  owns  the  Columbian  and  Empire  Springs. 
It  represents  200  or  300  stockholders,  and  has  a  capital  of 
$1,000,000.  The  work  of  bottling  is  carried  on  day  and 
night,  the  year  round,  except  during  a  portion  of  the  sum- 
mer season,  when  for  certain  hours  of  the  day  there  is  so 
much  used  that  the  supply  is  limited.  For  visitors,  the 
water  is  dipped  out  by  boys  from  the  tube  rising  out  of  the 
ground  under  the  pavilion  at  the  entrance  of  Congress 
Spring  Park.  For  bottling,  it  is  brought  across  the  street 
through  a  pipe  by  a  pump,  worked  by  a  small  steam- 
engine.  It  enters  a  "drum,"  holding  a  few  gallons,  and 
from  this  a  tapering  tube  descends,  which  fits  into  the 
neck  of  the  bottles.  The  bottles  are  filled  one  at  a  time, 
and  immediately  corked.    About  4800  may  be  filled  in  24 


10 


SPRINGS  AND  FALLS. 


houra  by  steady  work.  80,000  dozens  of  bottles  of  the  Em- 
pire water  were  sold  last  year,  and  about  4000  dozens  of 
the  Columbian. 

The  Congress  Spring  was  discovered  in  1792—25  years 
after  Sir  William  Johnson  visited  the  High  Hock  Spring. 
The  discoverers  were  three  gentlemen  who  were  hunting 
in  this  valley,  one  of  whom — John  Taylor  Oilman,  of  New- 
Hampshire — was  then  a  member  of  Congress,  which  fact 
suggested  the  name  of  the  spring.  The  low  ground  about 
the  sprmg  was  then  a  swamp,  and  the  mineral  water 
issued  in  a  small  stream  from  an  aperture  in  the  side  of 
the  rock  which  formed  tl.o  margin  of  the  brook. 

It  was  caught  by  holding  a  glass  to  the  side  of  the  rock ; 
and  as  this  means  soon  became  insufficient  to  satisfy  the 
demands  of  visitors,  an  effort  was  made  to  confine  it.  The 
result  was  the  complete  loss  of  the  water  for  some  time. 
Gideon  Putnam,  that  enterprising  settler  of  Saratoga, 
observed  bubbles  breaking  up  from  the  middle  of  the 
brook,  a  few  feet  south  of  the  rock.  He  turned  the  stream 
from  its  course,  and  dug  down  about  8  feet,  when  the  min- 
eral water  rose  from  several  places  in  the  marl.  He  pre- 
pared a  square  tube  of  planks,  and,  placing  it  over  several 
of  the  little  fountains,  replaced  the  earth  around  it,  and 
thus  secured  the  spring.  It  was  iSrst  bottled  as  an  article 
of  merchandise  in  1823,  and  is  now  sent  to  all  portions  of 
the  world. 

Since  then,  springs  have  been  developed  all  along  the 
valley,  commencing  at  the  Washington  Spring,  in  the 
grounds  of  the  Clarendon  Hotel,  600  feet  south-west  of 
Congress  Spring.  This  was  tubed  by  Gideon  Putnam, 
but  it  was  not  until  1858  that  the  tube  was  extended  down 
to  the  solid  rock.  A  shaft,  11  feet  square,  was  first  sunk 
30  feet  deep  to  the  rock.     The  stream  was  then  found  to 


SPRINGS   AND   TALLS. 


11 


md 


of 


tlie 
Itlie 

of 
iin, 
)wn 

ink 
to 


como  from  p  lateral  direction,  and  a  tunnel  was  excavated 
80  feet  long.  At  this  point  the  earth  gave  way,  and  the 
water  and  gas  flowed  in  so  suddenly  that  the  workmen 
were  scarcely  able  to  escape,  leaving  their  tools  behind 
them.  In  15  minutes  as  much  as  12,000  gallons  of  water, 
and  twice  the  quantity  of  carbonic  acid  gas,  filled  the  ex- 
cavation. A  rotary  pump,  worked  by  a  steam-engine,  was 
incapable  of  removing  the  water,  and  a  second  shaft  was 
sunk  near  the  end  of  the  tunnel.  At  the  depth  of  28  feet 
the  water  also  burst  into  this,  so  that  it  had  to  be  aban- 
doned. Still  another  shaft  was  then  sunk,  20  feet  in 
diameter,  in  a  Sc  rith-easterly  direction  from  the  others, 
and  was  held  by  a  strong  coffer-dam.  When  the  rock  was 
reached,  two  formations  were  found  issuing  from  a  fissure, 
one  of  these  being  tubed,  the  water  soon  rose  to  the 
surface. 

The  Columbian  Spring  is  but  a  few  rods  south-west 
of  the  Congress,  in  the  Congress  Park.  It  contains  much 
more  iron  than  the  Congress  Spring,  j  nd  is  drunk  during 
the  day.  Persons  drinking  it  before  breakfast  are  apt  to 
have  a  headache;  while  the  Congress  should  only  be 
drunk  upon  an  empty  stomach. 

About  30  rods  to  the  north-east  of  the  Congress,  and  in 
the  rear  of  Congress  Hall,  is  the  Hamilton  Spring.  It  is 
owned  by  Mrs.  White,  and  is  not  bottled.  20  rods  north 
of  the  Hamilton  is  the  Putnam  Spring,  which  is  a]> 
proached  through  an  alley-way  from  Broadway.  It  is  a 
fine  water,  and  has  a  bathing  establishment  connected 
with  it.  Still  to  the  north  is  the  Pavilion  Fountain, 
which  is  situated  in  what  was  once  called  the  Willow 
Walk,  back  of  the  site  of  the  old  Columbian  Hotel,  which 
was  burned.  The  walk  is  now  not  much  frequented,  and 
the  water  not  much  used.     FoUowinsr  the  course  of  the 


12 


SPRINGS  AND  FALLS. 


,'il. 


valley,  the  Flat  Rock  Spring  was  situated  next,  but  it  is 
now  lost,  having  mostly  disappeared  when  the  Pavilion 
was  tubed.  The  next  spring  to  the  north  is  the  Seltzer 
Spring,  which  was  formerly  called  the  Barrel  Spring,  for 
the  reason  that  a  barrel  was  first  used  to  confine  the 
water,  which  flowed  over  the  ground.  In  I860,  the  spring 
was  tubed.  After  digging  through  4  feet  of  muck,  a  solid 
mass  of  calcareous  tufa  was  found,  4  feet  in  thickness, 
fonned  in  the  same  manner  as  the  High  Rock,  by  the 
deposits  of  the  water. 

An  analysis  showed  it  to  be  composed  principally  of 
carbonate  of  lime,  carbonate  of  magnesia,  oxide  of  iron, 
and  silica.  In  the  process  of  excavation,  a  birch-tree  was 
also  found  in  the  calcareous  deposit.  Tliis  spring  differs 
from  the  others  in  rising  through  a  glass  tube,  3  feet  in 
height,  over  the  rim  of  which  it  flows.  The  bubbles  can 
be  seen  rising  up  through  the  tube,  while  at  intervals  of 
about  a  minute  there  is  an  excessive  escape  of  gas,  causing 
much  larger  bubbles  and  a  greater  agitation  of  the  water. 
This  spring  is  named  the  Seltzer,  on  account  of  the  resem- 
blance of  the  water  to  the  Seltzer  of  Germany.  High 
Rock  Spring,  with  its  water  bubbling  up  through  the 
aperture  in  the  conical  rock  4  feet  high,  is  less  than  100 
feet  to  the  north. 

Star  Spring,  formerly  called  the  President  and  the 
Iodine,  is  a  few  rods  north  of  the  High  Rock.  Next  to  the 
north  is  the  Empire  Spring.  The  Saratoga  A  Spring  is 
on  the  road  leading  to  the  Tea  Springs. 

Excelsior  Spring. — This  is  situated  nearly  2  miles  to 
the  east  of  the  hotels,  and  is  one  of  10  mineral  springs,  none 
of  which  are  used  except  this.  The  tubing  is  50  feet  deep, 
to  the  Trenton  lime-rock,  through  which  it  flows  through 


SPRINGS   AND  FALLS. 


13 


it  is 
ilion 
rzER 
J,  for 
I  the 
pring 
solid 
:ness, 
y  tlie 

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iron, 
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differs 
•eet  in 
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HiGH 
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an  100 

Qd  the 
to  the 
ring  is 

Qiles  to 
rs,  none 
et  deep, 
hrough 


several  crevices.  There  is  a  beautiful  walk  through  a 
grove  to  this  spring,  and  also  a  pleasant  drive. 

Other  Springs. — The  Eureka  Spring  is  also  still  fur- 
ther from  the  town,  and  is  surrounded  by  beautiful 
scenery.  In  South-Argyle,  Washington  county,  to  the 
east,  there  is  a  mineral  fountain  called  Reed's  Spring,  the 
water  of  which,  however,  is  not  equal  to  that  of  Saratoga 
Springs.  About  10  miles  south-east  of  Congress  Spring  is 
Paradise  Spring,  formerly  called  Quaker  Spring,  which 
has  been  bottled  in  small  quantities.  About  2  miles 
south-west  of  the  hotel  is  a  spri:  \g  near  the  railway  track, 
at  the  westerly  side  of  the  embankment.  It  is  only  used 
by  the  j^eople  in  the  viciuity. 

Near  the  side  of  Saratoga  Lake,  opposite  Moon's  Lake 
House,  there  is  a  sulphur  spring,  which  is  sometimes  vis- 
ited by  persons  driving  around  the  lake. 

USE  AND  PROPERTIES  OF  THE  SPRINGS. 

Directions  are  given  in  little  circulars,  at  each  of  the 
springs,  for  their  use.  The  Congress  and  Empire  are  used 
in  the  morning,  as  a  cathartic.  Drink  leisurely  two  or 
three  glasses,  take  a  walk  around  the  beautiful  gi'ounds, 
Dnd  returning  to  the  spring,  drink  another  glass  or  two,  if 
you  please,  and  be  at  breakfast  in  20  to  30  minutes  after ; 
but  before  eating,  sip  a  cup  of  tea  or  coffee.  The  Colum- 
bian and  Washington  are  drunk  during  the  day.  The 
Columbian  should  only  be  drunk  in  quantities  of  a  glass 
or  half  a  glass  at  a  time,  or  headache  is  likely  to  result. 

The  analysis  of  some  of  the  principal  springs  is  as  follows : 

HIGH  ROCK  SPRING. 
To  one  Gallon.  Grains. 

Chloride  of  Sodium 190.233 

Carbonate  of  Magnesia 63.100 


14 


SPRINGS  AND  PALLS, 


Ji  ; 


i  11 


Carbonate  of  Lime •'l.SaS 

Carbonate  of  Soda 18.421 

Carbonate  of  Iron 4.233 

Iodide  of  Soda 2.177 

Silex  and  Alumina 8.600 

Hydro-Bromate  of  Potash—a  small  quantity. 

SoUd  contents 851.197 

CONGRESS  SPRING. 

To  one  Gallon.  Grains. 

Chloride  of  Sodium 385.000 

Hydriodate  of  Soda 3.500 

Bi-Carbonate  of  Soda 8.982 

Bi-Carbonate  of  Magnesia 95.788 

Carbonate  of  Lime 9.809 

Carbonate  of  Iron 5.075 

Silex  and  Alumina 500 

Hydro-Bromate  of  Potash— a  trace. 

Solid  contents  in  a  Gallon 59T.943 

Carbonic  Acid  Gas 311  cubic  inches. 

Atmospheric  Air 7     "       " 

Gaseous  contents  in  a  Gallon 318  cubic  inches. 

EMPIRE  SPRING. 

To  one  Gallon.  Grains, 

Chloride  of  Sodium 269.096 

I?i-Carbonate  of  Lime 141.824 

Bi-Carbonate  of  Magnesia 41.984 

Bi-Carbonate  of  Soda 30.848 

Hydriodate  of  Soda  or  Iodine 12.000 

Bi-Carbonate  of  Iron— a  trace. 

Solid  contents  in  a  Gallon 496.852 

Specific  gravity 1.039 

Carbonic  Acid  Gas 315  cubic  inches. 

Atmospheric  Air 5     "       " 

COLUMBIAN  SPRING. 

To  one  Gallon.  y  Grains, 

Chloride  of  Sodium 267.00 

Bi-Carbonate  of  Soda 15.40 


SPKINGS  AND  FALLS. 


15 


.  a.583 
.  18.431 
.  4.233 
.  2.177 
.    2.500 

.351.197 

Grains, 
.385.000 
.  3.500 
.  8.982 
.  95.788 
.  9.809 
.  5.075 
,.       500 


a. 

...269.096 
..141.824 
..  41.984 
..  30.848 
..  12.000 

.  .496.352 
...  1.039 
.68. 


Grains. 
...267.00 
....  15.40 


! 


u 


Bi-Carbonate  of  Magnesia 46.71 

Hydriodate  of  Soda 2.5q 

Carbonate  of  Lime 68.00 

Carbonate  of  Iron 5.58 

Silex 2.05 

Hydro-Bromate  of  Potash— scarcely  a  trace. 

Solid  contents  in  a  Gallon , 407.30 

Carbonic  Acid  Gas 272.06  inches. 

Atmospheric  Air 4.50     '■ 

276.56  inches. 
EXCELSIOR  SPRING. 

To  one  Gallon.  Grains, 

Chloride  of  Sodium 370.642 

Carbonate  of  Lime 77.000 

Carbonate  of  Magnesia 32.333 

Carbonate  of  Soda 15.000  ' 

Silicate  of  Potassa 7.000 

Carbonate  of  Iron 2.215 

Sulphate  of  Soda 1.321 

Silicate  of  Soda 4.000 

Iodide  of  Soda   4.235 

Bromide  of  Potassa— a  trace. 
Sulphate  of  Strontia— a  trace. 

Solid  contents  in  a  Gallon 514.746 

Carbonic  Acid 250  cubic  inches. 

Atmosphere 3    "        " 

Gaseous  contents 253  cubic  inches. 

PUTNAM  SPRING. 
To  one  Gallon.  Grains. 

Chloride  of  Sodium 220.000 

Carbonate  of  Sodti 15.321 

Carbonate  of  Magnesia 45.500 

Carbonate  of  Lime 70.433 

Carbonate  of  Iron 5.333 

Iodide  of  Soda 2.500 

Bromide  of  Potash— a  trace. 

Silex  and  Alumina I.6OO 

Solid  contents 360.587 


i  I 


i  i 

i 

I 


i,\ 


I    I 


■f 


16 


SPRINGS   AND   FALLS. 


Carbonic  Acid 317.753 

Atmospheric  Air 8.080 

Gaseous  contents 320.833 

Temperature 48** 

HAMILTON  SPRING. 

To  on£  Gallon.  Grains. 

Chloride  of  Sodium 298.656 

Carbonate  of  Soda 34.250 

Carbonate  of  Lime 97.996 

Carbonate  of  Magnesia 39.066 

Carbonate  of  Iron 4.625 

Iodide  of  Soda 3.593 

Silex  and  Alumina 1.000 

Solid  contents 479.191 

Carbonic  Acid 320.777 

Atmospheric  Air 1.461 

Gaseous  contents 322.233 

Temperature 48'* 

The  mineral  waters,  as  will  be  seen,  contain  large  por- 
tions of  chloride  of  sodium,  carbonate  of  soda,  carbonate  of 
lime,  carbonate  of  mapfnesia,  carbonate  of  iron,  iodide  of 
soda,  and  traces  of  silex,  alumina,  and  hydrobromate  of 
potash.  These  solid  contents  passing  over  the  ground,  are 
precipitated,  and  form  a  rock,  as  is  most  wonderfully 
shown  in  the  High  Rock.  The  waters  contain  great 
quantities  of  carbonic  acid  gas,  giving  them  the  power  of 
dissolving  minerals,  forcing  them  up,  and  agitating  the 
top  of  the  springs  with  bubbles  by  its  continual  escape. 
The  waters  may  be  used  in  making  bread  instead  of  yeast. 
The  gas  may  be  procured  by  preparing  a  bladder,  securing 
to  its  mouth  a  stop-cock,  fitting  to  this  the  small  aperture 
of  a  large  glass  funnel,  inverting  the  funnel  over  the 
spring,  emptying  the  bladder  of  air,  and  allowing  it  to 
fill  with  gas.    Press  some  of  this  gas  into  a  tumbler,  and. 


« 


s 
3 


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m    I 


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^^.'     " 


SPRINGS   AND  PALLS. 


17 


of  course,  a  lighted  candle  will  go  out  in  it,  and  a  mouse 
will  die  in  it  in  less  than  a  minute.  The  water  is  quite 
cold,  and  remains  at  the  same  temperature  winter  and 
summer.  It  becomes  quite  pleasant  to  the  taste  after  a 
short  time,  and  the  inhabitants  drink  it  to  quench  thirst. 

The  water  of  some  of  the  springs,  and  especially  of  the 
Excelsior,  is  put  up  and  sent  away  in  barrels,  to  be  sold  on 
draught,  but  it  has  been  found  very  difficult  to  preserve 
the  water  in  the  condition  in  which  it  is  drawn  from  the 
spring.  In  many  of  the  drug-stores,  where  it  is  sold  on 
draught ;  it  is  necessary  to  charge  it  artificially  with  the 
carbonic  acid  gas  which  it  has  lost  in  transportation.  The 
high  price  of  mineral  waters  away  from  Saratoga  is  owing 
chiefly  to  the  cost  of  the  bottles  and  of  transportation. 

The  Congress  and  Empire  Spring  Company  being  una- 
ble to  procure  all  the  bottles  which  they  needed,  have  es- 
tablished manufactories  of  their  own  at  a  village  near 
Saratoga,  which  they  have  called  Congressville,  and  will 
thus  in  future  be  able  to  supply  the  greater  demand.  If 
the  water  could  be  confined  in  large  quantities  so  as  to  re- 
tain its  gaseous  and  mineral  qualities  after  transportation, 
it  could  be  sent  away  by  hundreds  of  hogsheads,  the  flow 
from  some  of  the  springs  being  estimated  at  between  one 
and  two  hundred  gallons  per  minute.  The  flow  of  the 
Congress  water,  however,  is  not  more  than  two  quarts  per 
minute,  and  but  very  little  of  it  is  now  wasted. 

Drives. — The  principal  drive,  and  the  only  one  patron- 
ized to  any  extent,  is  the  dusty  road  to  Moon's  Lake  House. 
This  is  a  most  delightful  place  on  the  shore  of  Lake  Sara- 
toga ,which  lies  below,  (down  a  steep  hill,)  and  is  spread  out 
beyond,  presenting  a  most  charming  view.  At  the  Lake 
House  the  prices  are  high,  the  game  dinners  are  good,  and 
the  fried  potatoes  are  noted  all  over  the  world,  but  can  be 


1 


M! 


:y 


:l 


18 


SPRINGS  AND  FALLS. 


imitated  nowhere  else;  they  are  done  up  in  papers  like 
confectionery,  and  the  gayly-dressed  ladies  riding  home  in 
fine  carriages  may  be  seen  eating  them  with  their  fingers 
with  beatific  expressions  on  their  countenances.  On  either 
side  of  the  lake  the  drive  is  very  pleasant.  Lake  Saratoga 
is  9  miles  in  length,  and  at  its  broadest  part,  Opposite 
Snake  Hill,  is  between  4  and  5  miles  wide.  Formerly, 
it  abounded  in  trout,  but  is  now  filled  with  the  black 
or  Oswego  bass,  pickerel,  muscalonge,  and  perch. 

A  small  steamboat  is  run  on  the  lake  during  the  summer 
time,  and  stages  run  from  Saratoga  to  the  lake.  Lake 
Saratoga  empties  by  a  small  stream  called  Fish  Creek  into 
the  Hudson. 

Coming  back  by  another  route  to  the  town,  the  drive 
passes  Lake  Lovely,  which  is  much  smaller  than  Lake 
Saratoga.  On  the  eastern  shore,  steep  declivities  rise  up 
from  the  water's  edge,  covered  with  tangled  ferns  and  hem- 
locks, some  of  which,  the  growth  of  centuries,  rise  above 
their  fellows  till  their  tops,  resembling  so  many  spires, 
seem  lost  in  the  clouds.  In  the  rainy  seasons,  very  consi- 
derable torrents  pour  down  the  sides  of  these  precipitous 
banks,  tumbling  through  the  deep  ravines  and  glens  into 
the  lake,  and  in  a  few  places  forming  cataracts  of  some 
magnitude.  One  of  these  glens,  on  the  eastern  bank  of 
the  lake,  nearly  opposite  Abel's  Lake  House,  forms  an 
echo  almost  as  distinct  and  powerful  as  the  celebrated  one 
in  the  ruined  bastion  of  the  old  French  fortress  at  Crown 
Point.  Another  small  body  of  water  near  here  is  called 
Barhydt's  Lake. 

A  drive  of  16  miles  on  the  road  to  Mount  Pleasant  leads 
to  Prospect  or  Waring  Hill,  which  is  2000  feet  above  fide- 
water,  and  commands  a  fine  view. 


SPRINGS  AND  FALLS. 


19 


drive 
Lake 
se  up 
hem- 
above 
pires, 
consi- 
itous 
into 
Bome 
kof 
s  an 
d  one 
rown 
ailed 

I  leads 
tlde- 


Tlio  Saratoga  Battle  Ground  is  at  Stillwater,  quite  a  dis- 
tance out  of  town,  but  easily  reached  by  a  carriage-road. 

A  very  beautiful  drive,  but  perhaps  a  pleasanter  ride  on 
the  Adirondack  Railway,  is  to  Luzerne,  (see  the  article 
on  Lake  Luzerne  elsewhere,)  which  is  situated  about 
22  miles  from  the  springs.  On  the  border  of  the  lower 
spurs  of  the  Adirondacks  there  * ;  fine  fishing  and  hunting; 
there ;  the  mountain  air  is  exhilarating,  and  a  row  on  the 
lake  to  gather  water-lilies  is  very  delightful.  Passing 
from  the  depot  over  the  Hudson,  wliich  is  here  bridged, 
and  rushes  through  a  narrow  gorge  of  rocks  not  more  than 
20  feet  wide  at  places,  the  traveler  finds  George  llock- 
well's  hotel,  where  dinners  of  trout  and  venison  can  be  ob- 
tained at  proper  notice,  that  can  not  be  surpassed.  From 
this  hotel  a  stage  goes  to  Lake  George,  which  is  only  10 
miles  away  and  the  route  is  more  picturesque  than  that  by 
way  of  Moreau. 

THE    RACE-COURSE 

is  on  the  road  to  Saratoga  Lake,  only  half  a  mile  from  the 
springs.  It  was  laid  out  by  Charles  H.  Ballard,  and  is  the 
finest  race-course  in  the  country.  It  is  a  level  mile-track 
with  commodious  stands,  and  is  kept  in  excellent  order. 
The  races  last  about  a  week. 

CHURCHES,  ETC. 

Saratoga  has  a  Presbyterian,  a  Baptist,  a  Methodist,  an 
Episcopalian,  a  Congregationalist,  and  a  Catholic  church. 
The  Universalist  Society  usually  arrange  for  services  at 
Leland's  Opera-House.  Ministers  from  various  parts  of 
the  country,  stopping  at  Saratoga  for  a  season,  frequently 
fill  the  pulpits  of  some  of  the  churches.  Dr.  Cuyler,  of 
Brooklyn,  who  has  spent  his  summers  at  Saratoga  for  many 
years,  usually  preaches  nearly  every  Sunday,  and  crowds 


20 


SPRINGS  AND   PALLS. 


go  to  hear  him.    The  Young  Men's  Christian  Association 
have  a  fine  room  and  hold  daily  prayer-meetings. 

BURNING    OF    HOTELS. 

Twenty-five  years  ago,  the  Pavilion  Hotel,  which  was 
the  favorite  resort  at  that  time,  was  destroyed  by  fire.  The 
grounds  where  it  stood  are  now  occupied  by  the  Presby- 
terian church.  Since  then  nearly  the  whole  of  the  east 
side  of  Broadway,  from  the  church  to  Congrfess  Spring,  has 
been  burned  over  by  successive  fires.  On  July  4th,  18G4, 
Dr.  Bedortha's  water-cure  establishment,  a  famous  resort, 
capable  of  accommodating  200  guests,  was  burned,  and  of 
a  loss  of  $75,000  only  $18,000  was  covered  by  insurance. 

In  June,  1865,  the  United  States  Hotel,  worth  $300,000, 
and  capable  of  accommodating  800  guests,  was  des- 
troyed, and  with  it  also  the  Marvin  House.  The  Marvin 
House  is  rebuilt,  but  coming  down  from  the  depot  the 
ruins  of  the  United  States  are  still  seen.  The  old  Csngress 
Hall,  valued  at  $300,000,  and  capable  of  accommodating 
800  persons,  was  burned  in  the  latter  part  of  June,  1866. 
The  Columbian  Hotel,  valued  at  $50,000,  was  burned  Au- 
gust, 1866.  It  has  been  rebuilt.  No  litres  have  been  lost 
at  these  fires ;  but  the  people  of  the  lown  have  been  ad- 
monished of  the  necessity  of  an  efficient  fire  department, 
and  have  established  one. 


THE  BOUTINE  OF  SARATOGA  LIFE. 

For  a  lady :  rise  and  dress ;  go  down  to  the  spring ;  drink 
to  the  music  of  the  band ;  walk  around  the  park ;  bow  to 
gentlemen  and  chat  a  little  ;  drink  again ;  breakfast ;  see 
who  comes  in  on  the  train;  take  a  siesta;  walk  in  the 
parlors ;  bow  to  gentlemen  ;  have  a  little  small-talk  with 
gentlemen  ;  have  some  gossip  with  ladies ;  dress  for  din- 


SPRINGS   AND   PALLS. 


21 


ner  ;  take  dinner,  an  Lour  and  a  half;  sit  in  the  grounds 
and  hear  the  music  of  the  band  ;  ride  to  the  lake  ;  see  who 
comes  by  the  evening  train  ;  dress  for  tea  ;  get  tea ;  dress 
for  the  hop  ;  attend  the  hop ;  chat  awhile  in  the  parlors  and 
listen  to  a  song  from  some  guest ;  go  to  bed.  Varied  by 
croquet ;  the  ladies'  bowling  alley  ;  visit  to  the  Indian  en- 
campment ;  other  springs  ;  the  grand  ball  once  a  week  or 
oftencr ;  a  performance  now  and  then  at  the  Opera-House ; 
and  the  Races.  For  a  gentleman  :  smoking  on  the  stoop, 
billiards,  euchre,  and  the  bar,  to  vary  a  similar  routine. 
For  some,  a  night  at  the  gambling-houses — Morrissey's,  on 
Matilda  street,  with  open  doors  and  brilliant  lights,  and 
Hill's  and  Hazelboom's,  near  the  Union  Hotel  grounds. 


SYRACTJSE-SALT  SPTilNGS. 

The  salt  springs,  at  Lake  Onondaga,  at  the  head  of 
which  (where  Onondaga  Creek  comes  in)  the  city  of  Syra- 
cuse is  situated,  have  been  known  to  the  pale-faced  race 
since  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century,  and  are  the 
most  valuable  in  the  country,  furnishing  half  the  domestic 
supply.  The  productive  springs  are  in  great  part  found 
in  the  marshy  lands  surrounding  the  lake,  which  is  an 
uninteresting  sheet  of  water,  6  miles  long  and  1  wide,  lying 
directly  upon  the  side  of  the  Central  Railway.  A  stratum 
of  marl,  3  to  12  feet  thick,  underlaid  by  a  marly  clay, 
forms  an  impervious  barrier  between  the  water  raised  from 
the  wells  and  that  of  the  lake.  Welh  are  sunk  or  bored 
in  the  lowlands  around  the  lake  to  various  depths,  from 
200  to  300  feet,  and  from  these  the  salt  water  is  forced 
up  by  pumps  into  the  reservoirs  from  which  the  evapo- 
rating works  are  supplied. 

There  are,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  salt-works,  and  easily 


22 


SPRINGS  AND   FALLS. 


readied  by  horse-cars  from  the  city,  several  saline  springs 
wlioso  waters  are  very  popular  among  the  Syracusans, 
and  are  growing  in  favor  elsewhere.  Occasional  visitors 
delayed  over  a  train  seldom  fail  to  drink  of  the  Excelsior, 
which  is,  moreover,  to  be  had  "  bottled"  at  many  towns 
and  villages  in  Central  New- York. 

Syracuse  may  be  reached  by  Hudson  River  steamboat  or 
rail,  and  New- York  Central  Railway  direct,  300  miles  from 
New- York,  first-class  fare  by  mil,  $0.25.  At  Oswego, 
35  miles  north  of  Syracuse,  by  Syracuse  and  Oswego  Kail- 
way,  fare  $1.25,  there  have  been  a  number  of  small 
sulphur  springs  discovered  within  4  years,  on  the  banks 
of  the  Oswego  River.  The  lake  view,  (Ontario,)  from  the 
Pier  at  Oswego,  will  repay  a  visitor  for  his  trouble  in  look- 
ing for  it. 

LEBANON-THEBMAL  SPRINGS. 

The  principal,  if  not  the  only,  thermal  springs  in  the 
State  of  New- York  are  at  New-Lebanon,  in  Columbia 
county.  There  is  a  great  variety  of  routes :  the  quickest, 
by  Harlem  and  Western  (Boston  and  Albany)  Railways  to 
Canaan  Station,  whence  stage  5  miles  to  Columbia  Hall,  a 
first-class,  excellent  hotel,  within  the  grounds  of  which  are 
the  springs.  The  water  holds  a  permanent  temperature  of 
73  degrees  Fahrenheit,  and  is  abundant  enough  to  work 
a  mill.  The  village  of  New-Lebanon,  or  the  celebrated 
Shaker  settlement,  founded  by  the  disciples  of  Ann  Lee  a 
century  ago,  is  2  miles  from  the  springs,  and  is  a  i)oint  of 
great  interest  to  the  visitors  there,  especially  on  Sunday 
when  their  singular  forms  of  worship  may  be  witnessed. 
This  is  the  most  perfectly  arranged  and  constituted  of  the 
18  Shaker  communities,  and  here  the  hierarchy  of  the 
"  Millennial  Church"  reside.   The  ride  thither  is  charming, 


springs 

•acusans, 

visitors 

CELSIOR, 

ly  towns 

tnboat  or 
iles  from 
Oswego, 
?go  Kail- 
of  small 
le  banks 
from  tlie 
3  in  look- 


ll".  iC 

Ml 


Ts  in  tlie 
Columbia 
quickest, 
ilways  to 
a  Hall,  a 
vliicli  are 
jrature  of 
.  to  work 
elebrated 
Lnn  Lee  a 
I  point  of 
Sunday 
dtncssed, 
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ill 


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mm 


SPRINGS  AND  FALLS. 


23 


the  society  in  summer  at  the  Columbia  Hall  very  select, 
aiid  the  whole  region  one  of  the  most  quietly  delightful, 
Sabbath-like"  retreats  to  be  found.  Pittsfield  and  Williams- 
town  (see  articles  on  Williamstown  and  Housatonio 
Valley)  are  about  25  miles  distant  from  the  springs. 

SULFHUB  SFBINGS. 

The  sulphur  waters  of  the  State  are  found  especially  at 
Clifton,  Avon,  Richfield,  Sharon,  Columbia,  (town  of  Stock- 
port,) Massena,  and  Chittenango. 

One  of  the  most  recently  popularized  of  these  resorts  is 

Columbia. — There  are  3  springs  which  together  bear  this 
name,  bubbling  up  in  meadow-land,  just  in  view  of  the  Cat- 
skills  and  the  Hudson-,  in  the  town  of  Stockport,  Columbia 
county,  4  miles  from  Hudson.  Mr.  Charles  B.  Nash  open- 
ed the  hotel  here  in  1854,  since  which  time  the  place  has 
been  steadily  growing  in  public  favor.  Hudson  River  Rail- 
way, or  boat,  to  Hudson,  125  miles  from  New- York  City. 

Sharon  is  one  of  the  most  curious  watering-places  in  the 
State,  owing  to  the  existence  of  5  different  kinds  of  springs 
clustered  closely  together.  These  are  respectively  white  sul- 
phur, magnesia,  (these  two  the  principal  ones,)  blue  sulphur, 
chalybeate,  and  pure  water.  The  village  and  the  springs 
lie  in  a  ravine  900  feet  above  the  valley  of  the  Mohawk, 
distant  10  miles  (stage  over  plank-road)  from  Palatine 
Bridge,  a  station  201  miles  from  New- York  City,  on  the 
Central  Railway.  The  spring  waters  tumble  over  a  ledge 
of  perpendicular  rocks,  with  a  descent  of  some  65  feet,  in 
sufficient  volume  and  force  to  turn  a  mill.  The  magnesia 
and  the  sulphur  springs  much  resemble  the  White  Sul- 
phur of  Virginia. 

The  famous  Cherry  Valley,  of  Revolutionary  memory, 
is  in  the  vicinity  of  Sharon  Springs,  accessible  also  from 


24 


SPEINGS   AND   FALLS. 


r  Ifi 


I     1/ 


Palatine  Bridge,  and  from  Canajoliarie,  on  the  Erie  Canal, 
from  which  it  lies  about  26  miles  in  a  south-west  direction. 
Otsego  Lake  and  Cooperstown,  famous  as  the  home  of  the 
late  Fenimore  Cooper,  the  novelist,  are  also  near  by.  Prin- 
cipal hotel  at  Sharon,  the  Pavilion,  built  in  1835,  a  first- 
class,  excellent  house. 

Richfield. — Twenty-two  miles  west  of  Sharon  is  the 
village  of  Richfield  Springs,  half-way  between  the  Mohawk 
Valley  and  Cooperstown,  (Otsego  Lake,)  upon  a  narrow  plain 
near  the  head  of  Canaderaja  or  Schuyler's  Lake.  The  tour- 
ist from  New-Y brk  City  will  take  the  river  to  Albany  as  be- 
fore, and  the  Central  Railway  to  Herkimer,  81  miles  irom 
Albany,  227  miles  from  New-York.  The  Spring  House  is 
the  principal  hotel,  and  the  springs  are  situate  within  its 
limits.  The  pretty  lake  near  by  affords  excellent  fishing  and 
lovely  roads  for  driving  or  sauntering ;.  and  Otsego,  v/ith 
its  memories  of  Cooper,  besides  Cherry  Valley,  is  within  a 
few  miles'  ride. 

Clifton. — The  Clifton  Spa  House  was  erected  as  a  dis- 
pensary in  1806,  when  the  springs,  then  gushing  out  on 
the  borders  of  a  rough  marsh  and  tangled  forest,  were 
visited  by  invalids  from  the  surrounding  country.  For  50 
years  these  waters  have  been  famous  for  their  cure  of  bil- 
ious and  cutaneous  disorders ;  and  yet  it  is  only  since  1845, 
that  they  have  been  much  known  beyond  the  region  of 
Central  New- York.  They  are  now  one  of  the  most  popu- 
lar watering-places,  perhaps  the  most  so,  on  the  Central 
Railway.  Location,  212  miles  from  Albany,  on  the  "  old 
(or  *  Auburn')  road,"  from  Syracuse  to  Rochester  by  way  of 
Auburn  and  Geneva.  Passengers  going  west  by  the  chief 
trains  of  the  Central  Railway  are  generally  obliged  to 
change  cars  at  Syracuse — a  good  opportunity  to  stop  at 
Onondaga  Lake.     (See  article  entitled  Sybacusb  Salt 


SPRINGS  AND   FALLS, 


25 


Irie  Canal, 
,  direction, 
mie  of  tTiG 
by.    Prin- 
35,  a  first- 

Ton  is  tlie 
le  T^Ioliawk 
arrow  plain 
Tlie  tour- 
Lbanyasbe- 
miles  from 
ng  House  is 
,e  within  its 
tfisliingand 
Otsego,  with 
■^  is  within  a 

:tocL  as  a  dis- 
hing out  on 
forest,  were 

itry.    For  5^ 
r  cure  of  hil- 
ly since  1845, 
the  region  of 
le  most  popu- 
1  the  Central 
•,  on  the  "  old 
sterhywayof 
3t  by  the  chief 
Uy  obliged  to 
lityto  stop  at 
rRACTJSB  Salt 


Springs.)  Passengers  going  cast  also  generally  leave  the 
chief  trains  at  Rochester,  as  the  most  direct  route  is 
through  Lyons  and  Clyde,  to  the  north,  and  the  fast 
.through-trains  take  this  branch  route  in  preference  to  the 
Auburn  Road.  The  fare  on  the  New- York  Central  Railway 
for  any  distance,  through  or  way,  is  always  3  cents  pel 
mile. 

iS.VON  is  a  quiet,  beautiful  resort,  situated  on  that  branch,. 
cr  the  Erie  Railway  which  connects  Rochester  with  the 
main  road  at  Corning,  a  5  hours'  ride.  Avon  is  20  miles  from 
Rochester,  which  is  375  from  New- York  by  the  Central 
Road.  Passengers  from  New- York  City  by  the  Erie  need 
to  buy  tickets  for  Rochester,  as  the  competition  makes 
the  fare  to  that  point,  though  it  is  further,  cheaper  than 
the  fare  to  Corning  or  Avon.  Change  cars  at  Corning. 
By  the  Central  Road  the  passenger  comes  from  Albany  to 
Rochester,  and  riding  a  half-mile  in  State  street  car„  from 
the  Central  to  the  Erie  depot,  takes  Erie  cars  for  Avon. 
The  regular  fare  would  be  $7.90  to  Rochester,  (by  Central,) 
and  $2.50  more  to  Avon,  from  New- York  ;  but  the  summer 
competition  always  reduces  this  to  about  $5  or  $6  in  all, 
if  the  Erie  route  or  the  Hudson  River  boat  be  taken.  The 
tourist  bound  for  Avon  may  advantageously  stop  on  his 
way  to  visit  the  three  falls  of  the  Genesee  at  Rochester. 
(See  article  on  Genesee  Falls.)  Knickerbocker  Hall  ia 
the  chief  hotel. 

There  are  two  springs  a  mile  or  less  west  of  the  village. 
Carriages  always  in  waiting  at  the  trains. 

Massena  Springs.— The  Massena  group  of  springs,  of 
which  the  Saint  Regis  is  the  principal,  are  situated  on 
the  verge  of  the  Raquette  River,  (a  rapid  and  beautiful 
stream  which  rises  in  the  centre  of  the  Adirondack  region, 
and  empties  into  the  Saint  Lawrence,  opposite  Cornwall 


i/ 


.26 


SPKINGS   AND   FALLS. 


: 


>.     . 


!        I 


Ilsland,)  and  are  within  5  miles  of  the  celebrated  Long 
-Sault  Rapids.  The  springs  belong  to  the  sulphur  class, 
and,  it  is  said,  their  efficacy  was  discovered  by  the  natives, 
who  observed  that  the  animals  of  the  neighboring 
woods  used  persistently  to  come  to  drink  their  health- 
giving  draughts. 

Persons  leaving  New- York  by  the  afternoon  express 
train  on  the  Harlem  Railway  arrive  in  Albany  in  time  to 
connect  with  the  night  train  on  the  Central  Railway,  with 
sleeping-cars  attached,  and  without  change  to  Watertown, 
where  sufficient  time  is  allowed  for  breakfast ;  then  pro- 
ceeding, arrive  at  Potsdam  Junction  about  noon.  Those 
who  dislike  night  travel  can  take  the  7.30  morning  express 
train  on  the  Hudson  River  Railway,  and  go  through  to 
Watertown  ma  Central  and  Rome  and  Watertown  Rail- 
ways, remain  over  night  at  Watertown,  (this  is  one  of  the 
most  charming  little  towns  in  the  State,)  and  take  the 
morning  train  for  the  springs  as  above  mentionod.  An- 
other very  delightful  trip  may  be  arranged  thus :  Take 
morning  boat  on  Hudson  River  for  Albany,  and  railway  to 
Saratoga;  on  leaving  Saratoga,  take  the  Saratoga  and 
Whitehall  Railway  for  Moreau  Station,  connecting  with 
^^tage  for  Caldwell's,  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Ploricon.  The 
steamer  leaves  Caldwell's  every  morning  for  the  upper 
end  of  the  lake,  connecting  with  morning  boats  on  Lake 
Champlain,  and  arriving  at  Rouse's  Point  same  evening. 
Sleep  on  the  boat  and  take  early  train  for  Potsdam  June 
tion,  where  carriages  will  be  found  in  waiting  to  convey 
passengers  to  the  springs.  The  tourist  by  this  route  passes 
through  some  of  the  most  picturesque  and  beautiful  sce- 
nery in  the  country.  A  more  rapid  trip  may  be  made  by 
taking  the  mornr  g  express  trains  from  New- York,  con- 
necting with  night  boats  on  Lake  Champlain,  and  arriving 


ited  Long 
)hur  class, 
le  natives, 
dgliboring 
sir  liealth- 

n  express 
in  time  to 
Iway,  with 
i^atertown, 
then  pro- 
m.    Those 
ng  express 
lirough  to 
town  Rail- 
one  of  the 
d  take  the 
on  3d.    An- 
us :    Take 
railway  to 
ratoga  and 
cting  with 
icon.    The 
the  upper 
ts  on  Lake 
e  evening, 
dam  June 
to  convey 
'oute  passes 
■autiful  sce- 
te  made  by 
-York,  con- 
nd  arriving 


IV 


-'r::W- :':'":''-'!      -'■"'- 


» 


SPRINGS  AND  PALLS. 


27 


at  Rouse's  Point  in  time  to  take  morning  train  for  Brasher 
Falls  and  stage  to  the  springs. 

Travelers  leaving  Boston  by  the  5  p.m.  express  train  on 
the  Vermont  and  Canada,  and  Vermont,  Central  and  Sulli- 
van Railways,  go  through  without  change  of  cars  to  Rouse's 
Point,  connecting  with  morning  train  on  the  northern 
(Ogdensburgh)  Railway  for  Potsdam  Junction  or  Brasher 
Falls. 

At  the  springs  there  is  a  lively  little  village,  in  which 
the  United  States  Hotel,  Messrs.  Crocker  &  Co.  proprietors, 
affords  every  convenience  necessary  to  travelers. 

Chittenango. — The  village  of  Chittenango,  in  Madison 
county,  lies  on  the  banks  of  the  Erie  Canal,  at  the  entrance 
to  the  deep,  narrow  valley  through  which  the  Chittenango 
Creek,  the  outlet  of  Cazenovia  Lake,  makes  its  way  towards 
the  immense  plain  that  extends  from  Syracuse  to  Rome, 
and  over  which  it  flows  to  Oneida  Lake,  8  miles  distant. 
A.  long  mile  up  the  valley  from  the  village,  near  the  east- 
ern bank  of  the  stream,  gush  out,  from  a  shelving  ledge 
of  rocks,  the  celebrated  sulphureous  fountains.  Along 
that  mile,  the  hills  rise  high  on  each  side  of  the  narrow 
valley,  and  for  a  considerable  distance  the  road  traverses 
an  oozy  swamp,  in  the  midst  of  which  is  a  small  edifice 
covering  the  more  ancient  mineral  fountain  in  that  region, 
known  as  Yates's  Spring.  It  is  now  but  little  visited. 
There  are  both  sulphur  and  iron  springs,  both  pronounced 
by  geologists  to  be  the  finest  in  the  State.  Invalids  are 
much  benefited  by  the  baths,  under  the  immediate  charge 
of  a  physician  of  high  standing  and  many  years'  practice, 
first  in  Cincinnati  and  afterward  in  New- York,  in  both 
places  gaining  an  enviable  reputation  in  the  profession. 
The  hotels  and  cottages  (there  are  4  of  the  latter)  will 
accommodate  100  boarders,  with  an  excellent  table,  good 


\ 


I 


28 


SPEINGS  AND  FALLS. 


beds,  plenty  of  amusements  in  tlie  way  of  bowling,  bil- 
liards, and  croquet.  The  whole  establishment  presents 
a  tidy  and  inviting  appearance  quite  refreshing.  The 
country  for  miles  around  abounds  in  fine  scenery,  ex- 
cellent roads,  and  good  fishing. 

The  best  route  to  this  place  is  by  the  People's  Line  of 
steamers,  leaving  Pier  41,  Nortli  River,  at  6  p.m.,  reach- 
ing Albany  in  time  for  breakfast.  The  train  leaves  on  the 
New- York  Central  Railway  at  7  o'clock,  arriving  at  Chit- 
tenango  station  at  12  o'clock,  where  there  are  stages  in 
readiness  on  the  arrival  of  each  train  to  convey  passengers 
to  the  hotel,  where  a  sumptuous  dinner,  much  needed, 
will  be  ready. 

Cherky  Valley. — Not  far  from  Sharon  Springs  is 
Cherry  Valley,  at  the  head  of  the  valley  of  Cherry  Valley 
Creek.  It  Is  a  small  village,  in  the  interesting  township 
of  the  same  name,  and  has  long  been  well  known  as  the 
seat  of  a  fine  young  ladies'  academy,  the  oldest  west  of 
Schenectady.  The  first  principal  of  the  institution  was 
the  famous  Rev.  Solomon  Spaulding,  whose  harmless  anti- 
quarian, aboriginal  nc  vel,  written  for  his  own  amusement 
solely,  was  made  the  basis  of  that  great  fraud — the  Book 
of  Mormon.  Mount  Independence,  near  the  centre  of  the 
township,  is  a  rocky  eminence  2000  feet  above  the  sea. 
Tekaharanea  Falls,  160  feet  high,  are  to  be  seen  on  a  small 
creek  near  by.  The  sulphur  springs,  in  the  vicinity  of 
these  falls,  are  a  place  of  some  resort.  A  new  hotel  is  to 
be  erected  this  summer,  with  bath-houses,  etc.,  in  the  best 
style  of  summer  resorts.  Board  may  be  had  at  $5  per 
week.  An  additional  attraction  is  to  be  enjoyed  in  the 
brine  springs,  which  are  near  by,  in  the  village  called  Salt 
Springs ville.     Route,  same  as  to  Sharon. 


SPRINGS  AND  FALLS. 


29 


bowling-,  bil- 
ent  presents 
shing.  The 
scenery,  ex- 

:)le's  Line  of 
P.M.,  reach- 
eaves  on  the 
mg  at  Chit- 
re  stages  in 
Y  passengers 
uch  needed, 

Springs  is 
lerry  Valley 
ig  township 
nown  as  the 
est  west  of 
itution  was 
rmless  anti- 
amusement 
— the  Book 
ntre  of  the 
ve  the  sea. 
on  a  small 
vicinity  of 
hotel  is  to 
in  the  best 
at  $5  per 
yed  in  the 
called  Salt 


•■* 


OAK   OBCHABD   ACID    SPBINOS. 

The  Oak  Orchard  Acid  Springs  are  situated  about  13 
miles  north-west  of  Batavia,  N.  Y.,  in  the  town  of  Ala- 
bama, on  Oak  Orchard  Creek.  Railway  station,  Batavia, 
accessible  either  by  the  Erie  or  the  Central  road.  These 
curious  springs  are  nine  in  number,  all  located  within  a  cir- 
cle 50  rods  in  diameter,  three  of  them  issuing  from  a  mound 
within  10  feet  of  each  other.  In  no  two  of  them  is  the  water 
alike.  They  are  found,  by  analysis,  to  contain,  besides  other 
mineral  substances,  a  quantity  of  free  sulphuric  acid.  Large 
quantities  of  the  water  are  bottled  and  sold.  These  are 
the  principal  acid  springs  in  the  State  of  New- York. 

VALLONIA   SPBINOS. 

A  little  east  of  the  centre  of  Broome  county,  New- York, 
lies  the  postal  village  of  Valionia  Springs,  in  the  town- 
ship of  Colesville.  It  takes  its  name  from  the  valuable 
mineral  waters  which  render  the  place  an  excellent  resort 
for  persons  desiring  health,  country  life,  and  quiet.  The 
charming  Susquehanna  River  is  but  one  mile  distant,  the 
town  lying  upon  the  uplands  400  to  700  feet  above  its  val- 
ley. The  scenery  of  the  surrounding  country  is  wild  and 
romantic,  and  there  is  abundance  of  game  and  fish  to  de- 
light visitors  with  more  material  preferences. 

Hotel,  the  Spring  House,  J.  B.  Sands,  proprietor. 
Route  from  Albany,  via  morning  train  on  the  Albany  and 
Susquehanna  Railway,  114  miles,  to  Alton,  thence  by 
stage  to  the  house. 

BALLSTON  SPA,  NEW-YOBK. 

The  village  of  Ballston  Spa  lies  about  7  miles  south- 
west  from   the    great  Saratoga  Springs.      Its  mineral 


I 


30 


SPRINGS  AND  PALLS. 


springs,  which  alone  make  the  place  a  popular  resort, 
comprise  the  Sans  Souci,  Low's  Park,  the  New  and  the 
Old  Washington,  and  the  Sulphur.  With  the  exception 
of  the  Idst-named,  these  evidently  belong  to  the  same  class 
with  the  Saratoga  group.  They  may  bo  called  acidulo- 
Baline,  or  carbonated  saline  waters. 

The  Sans  Souci  Hotel,  Mr.  George  Smith,  proprietor, 
is  a  first-class,  large  house,  well-known  and  popular. 


THE  mmUl  SPRIXGS  OF  YERM05T. 

The  State  of  Vermont  boasts  a  number  of  fine  mineral 
Springs,  most  of  them  not  very  satisfactorily  analyzed, 
and  in  the  north-western  corner.  For  reference  to  the 
oldest  of  the  popular  springs  in  the  State,  those  at  Claren- 
don, see  sketch  of  the  Rutland  and  Burlington  Rail- 
way. Public  interest  has  of  late  been  centring  in  the  com- 
paratively new  springs  in  the  towns  of  Sheldon  and  High- 
gate,  and  on  Alburg  Bay,  close  to  the  Canada  and  Lake 
Champlain  borders.  There  are  four  separate  tracts  of  land 
occupied  with  these. 

HISSISQTTOI.  1 

The  Missisquoi  Springs  are  situated  about  10  miles  in  a 
north-easterly  direction  from  Saint  Alban's, Vermont,  which 
is  the  nearest  point  of  railway  communication,  and  2  miles 
north  of  the  village  of  Sheldon.  Their  name  is  taken 
from  the  beautiful  wdnding  Missisquoi  River,  which  flows 
immediately  in  front  of  them.     They  are  13  in  number. 


SrUINGS   AND   FALLS. 


31 


►pular  resort, 
New  and  the 
the  exception 
he  same  class 
ailed  acidulo- 

h,  proprietor, 
popular. 


ST. 


f  fine  mineral 
rily  analyzed, 
rence  to  the 
ose  at  Claren- 
NGTON  Rail- 
g  in  the  com- 
•n  and  High- 
a  and  Lake 
racts  of  land 


0  miles  in  a 
pnont,  which 

and  2  miles 
le  is  taken 
diich  flows 

1  in  number, 


all  within  the  space  of  an  acre  of  land,  and  all  possessed, 
apparently,  of  difforent  mineral  qualities,  having  distinc- 
tive tastes  and  colors,  and,  so  far  as  tried,  proving  unlike 
in  effect.  One  spring  is  cathartic,  although  the  Missis- 
quoi  is  not,  but  is  a  diuretic ;  another  is  ottensive  to  the 
taste  and  smell,  while  the  chief  one  is  usually  free  from 
all  unpleasant  odor,  and  its  mineral  properties  are  scarcely 
perceptible,  being  only  known  by  its  effects.  This  spring 
is  now  called  the  Missisquoi,  and  has  been  known  to  the 
few  in  the  immediate  neighborhood,  for  many  years,  as 
affording  a  remedy  for  cutaneous  diseases,  although  it  is 
only  within  the  last  few  years  that  it  has  risen  rapidly  in 
public  estimation.  The  other  springs,  with  a  single  excep- 
tion, have  been  discovered  lately.  One,  the  cathartic,  is 
already  proving  a  remedial  agent  for  dyspepsia  and  dis- 
eases of  the  liver.  The  specific  virtues  and  uses  of  the 
others  remain  for  time  to  develop.  The  character  of  the 
soil  around  the  springs  is  peculiar,  there  being  a  fine  and 
extensive  vein  of  fuller's  earth  passing  through  them, 
while  at  the  bottom  of  the  Missisquoi  are  deposits  of  mi- 
neral substances,  consisting  principally  of  pyrites  and 
quartz.  This  spring  is  from  4  to  5  feet  deep,  and  the 
water  rises  in  small  jets  through  the  minute  apertures  of 
a  white  marble-like  hard-pan.  Its  flow  is  uniform,  neither 
increasing  by  rains  nor  diminishing  in  droughts.  The 
iMissisquoi  is  the  only  one  of  the  group  that  has  been  ana- 
lyzed. 

Visitors  for  Missisquoi  take  the  Montreal  train  from 
Burlington  and  stop  at  Saint  Alban's,  where  they  may 
either  remain  at  the  Weldon  House,  (the  finest  hotel  in 
Northern  Vermont,  $3.50  per  day,)  or  take  stage  10  miles 
for  (Wright's)  Central  Hotel,  ($2.50  to  $3  per  day,)  at 
Sheldon.  This  is  in  close  contiguity  to  the  Vermont 
Spring,  and  not  very  far  from  the  Highgate. 


32 


SPRINGS   AND   FALLS. 


VEBMONT  SFBING. 

This  spring?  is  on  the  southerly  bank  of  the  Missisquoi 
River,  about  three  fourths  of  a  mile  from  the  village  of 
Sheldon,  and  3  miles  above  the  Missisquoi  Spring.  The 
side-hill  rising  above  the  spring  is  shaded  with  a  beautiful 
grove  of  second-growth  maple,  birch,  poplar,  and  hemlock, 
and  forms  one  of  the  chief  attractions  of  the  immediate 
locality.  A  neat  house  has  been  built  over  the  spring, 
and  all  necessary  appliances  are  provided  for  bottling  the 
water  after  the  most  approved  manner.  The  curative 
powers  are  mostly  in  the  direction  of  cutaneous  diseases. 
Besides  the  hotel  mentioned  above  at  Sheldon,  the  farm- 
houses in  the  vicinity  afford  very  pleasant  accommodations 
at  $8  or  $10  to  $12  per  week,  the  latter  price  being  the 
hotel  terms.  The  region  is  comparatively  new  and  unfa- 
miliar at  present,  but  more  public  houses  are  to  be  erected 
Bpeedily. 

HIOHGATE  SPEINQ 

Is  in  the  western  part  of  the  township  of  Highgate, 
13  miles  from  Saint  Alban's,  and  about  1  mile  be- 
low the  Missisquoi  Spring,  on  the  river  of  that  name. 
The  railway  from  Saint  Alban's  to  Montreal  passes  between 
the  hotel  and  the  spring-house.  The  Franklin  House, 
large  and  commodious,  is  a  delightful  summer  retreat, 
(terms,  $2.50  to  $3  per  day.)  In  the  rear  of  the  hotel, 
on  a  gentle  eminence,  is  a  grove  of  native  trees,  which 
add  greatly  to  the  beauty  of  the  place. 

The  nearest  telegraph  station  for  these  three  localities 
is  at  Saint  Alban's. 

ALBUBG  SPBINQ. 

The  springs  thus  far  described  are  located  upon  the 
Missisquoi  River,  10  to  13  miles  inland  from  Lake  Cham- 


y 


SPRINGS   AND   FALLS. 


33 


ho  Missisquoi 
ho  village  of 
Spring.    The 
ith  a  beautiful 
and  hemlock, 
he  immediate 
3r  the  spring, 
r  bottling  the 
The  curative 
leous  diseases, 
don,  the  farm- 
commodations 
[•ice  being  the 
new  and  unfa- 
e  to  be  erected 


I  of  Highgate, 

Lt   1   mile  be- 

»f  that  name. 

passes  between 

inklin  House, 

imer  retreat, 

of  the  hotel, 

trees,  which 


plain.  Tho  Alburn  Spring  is  at  Albiirg  Bay,  standing 
upon  a  \  fiiiiiHula  between  the  Canada  line,  Mis.siwiuoi 
Bay,  and  tlie  Uicluilieu  or  Sorel  Riv(T,  (Clianii)luiii  outlet,) 
opposite  Grand  Isle  in  tho  lake.  There  is  a  fine  hotel 
'  hero,  wliicli  will  bo  ready  for  visitors  this  sununer,  Juno 
1st,  but  will  hereafter  be  open  all  tho  year  round.  The 
proprietor,  Mr.  11.  J.  Severance,  may  be  addressed  at  "  Al- 
burg  Springs,  Grand  Isle  county,  Vermont."  Telegraph 
Station  at  tho  railway  station,  (same  name,)  one  mile  from 
the  hotel.  Rooms  for  150  guests  ;  prices  this  summer,  $8 
to  $20  per  week,  $1.50  to  $3.50  per  day.  Besides  tho 
spring,  tho  vicinity  is  very  attractive  to  tourists,  the  lake 
and  mountain  scenery,  particularly  the  drives  along 
Champlain,  being  very  fine.  Phillipsburg  and  Highgate 
9xe  6  miles  distant,  and  the  Canada  line  8  miles. 

How  Reached. — The  route  by  which  tourists  may 
reach  all  these  springs,  is,  from  New- York,  by  rail  or 
Steamboat  to  Troy,  thence  by  Troy  and  Boston,  Rutland 
and  Washington,  and  Vermont  Central  to  tho  stations  as 
given.  At  Essex  Junction,  5  miles  north  of  Burlington, 
passengers  must  see  to  it  for  themselves  that  they  are  on 
Jthe  right  route,  as  the  well-known  Vermont  Railway  dis- 
|a,greements  render  the  railway  people  very  unsatisfactory 

their  directions. 


iree  localities 


bed  upon  the 
Lake  Cham- 


34 


SPRINGS  AND  FALLS. 


THE  imUl  SPRINGS   OF  PENXSYLYAXIA. 


LI 


in,  ■ 


CBESSON. 

Cresson  is  situated  in  Cambria  county,  Pa.,  on  tlio 
line  of  tlie  Pennsylvania  Central  Railway,  102  miles  from 
Pittsburg,  254  from  Philadelphia,  328  from  Ne\v^-York, 
and  236  from  Baltimore.  It  is  nearly  at  the  summit  of  the 
Alleghany  water-shed,  (en  the  western  slope,)  and  is  2400 
feet  above  the  sea  level.  A  more  commanding  situation 
for  the  hotel  might  have  been  chosen  than  its  present  one 
on  the  summit ;  but  the  present  one  was  selected  on  ac- 
count of  coiivenience  to  the  railway.  The  property  is 
owned  and  controlled  by  the  Cresson  Springs  Company, 
and  consists  of  about  300  acres,  neatly  fenced  in  from  the 
surrounding  wilderness.  The  improvements  are,  one  large, 
comfortable  hotel,  the  Mountain  House,  south  of  the  rail- 
way, and  a  smaller  one  on  the  north  ;  also  17  stylish  cot- 
tages, built  on  the  mountain  side,  owned  principally  by 
wealthy  persons  from  Pittsburg,  Philadelphia,  Steuben- 
ville,  etc.  These  houses,  all  together,  will  accommodate 
about  500  guests,  and  are  usually  well  patronized,  cliiefly 
from  the  West.  Of  the  salubrity  of  the  climate  there  can 
be  no  question.  The  benefit  which  invalids  receive  from 
a  few  days*  residence  is  wonderful.  The  clearness,  purity, 
and  bracing  nature  of  the  air  are  noticed  at  once.  The 
thermometer  rarely  reaches  75°  in  the  hottest  part  of  the 
hottest  days  of  summer.  The  nights  are  always  cool,  and 
guests  sleep  under  blankets  the  entire  season.  Indeed, 
last  season,  except  during  one  week,  fires  were  quite  wel- 
come both  night  and  morning.  The  drives  around  the 
place  are  excellent,  and  abound  with  fine  scenery.  Plank 
walks  radiate  in  all  directions,  to  most  enchanting  walks. 


SPRINGS  AND  FALLS. 


35 


JSYLYASIA. 


y,  Pa.,  on  tlio 
102  miles  from 
•om  Ne^y-York, 
e  summit  of  tlie 
pe,)  and  is  2400 
inding  situation 
1  its  present  one 
I  selected  on  ac- 
rhe  property  is 
•rings  Company, 
iced  in  from  the 
ts  are,  one  large, 
outli  of  the  rail- 
17  stylish  cot- 
principally  by 
slphia,  Steuben- 
Lll  accommodate 
tronized,  cliiefly 
imate  there  can 
ids  receive  from 
earness,  purity, 
L  at  once.    The 
test  part  of  the 
ilways  cool,  and 
eason.    Indeed, 
were  quite  wel- 
^ves  around  the 
icenery.    Plank 
shanting  walks. 


The  usual  amusements  common  to  summer  resorts,  bil- 
liards, ten-pins,  etc.,  etc.,  may  be  indulged  in,  and  a  fine 
livery-stable  is  attached  to  the  Mountain  House. 

There  are  7  springs  of  different  kinds  within  easy  walk- 
ing distance  of  the  hotel.  The  chief  one,  which  lies  about 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  back,  is  of  a  chalybeate  nature,  and  its 
beneficial  effects  have  been  experienced  by  many.  This 
spring  is  situated  on  the  Old  Alleghany  (State)  Postage 
Railway,  or  rather  on  the  i  uins  of  it.  This  work  may  be 
considered  as  an  object  of  curiosity,  showing,  as  it  does, 
what  an  ancient  railroad  was.  It  was  purchased  by  the 
Pennsylvania  Railway  Company  in  1854,  and  abandoned 
the  next  vear.  As  it  now  remains,  it  looks  like  a  victim 
to  the  progressiveness  of  our  age. 

Its  accessibility  makes  Cresson  one  of  the  most  desirable 
of  resorts,  as  it  is  on  the  great  short  line  route  botween 
the  East  and  the  West,  with  trains  running  to  all  points, 
indeed,  to  all  the  principal  cities,  without  change  of  cars. 
For  instance,  there  is  no  change  between  Cresson  and 
New- York,  Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  Pittsburg,  Cincin- 
nati, and  Chicago,  and  but  one  to  Clevelr  nd.  Thus  the 
•  merchant  from  these  places,  bound  East,  can  bring  his 
family  here,  stop  a  few  days,  then  leave  them,  and  pursue 
I  his  journey  further;  when  his  business  has  been  trins- 
j  acted,  return  to  Cresson,  and  escort  his  brood  westward. 
[Hundreds  of  merchants  do  this  yearly. 

The  Pennsylvania  Railway  Company  is  very  obliging 

I  to  guests  at  Cresson,  and  special  trains  are  lurnished  at  a 

I  Bmall  cost,  to  persons  wishing  to  view  carefully  the  mag- 

|nificent  scenery  along  this  part  of  the  road — the  finest, 

save  that  of  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio,  in  the  East.    The 

elegant  station-house  at  Cresson  serves  the  double  purpose 

of  accommodating  the  people  of  the  hotels  and  the  passen- 


vn 


36 


SPRINGS  AND  FALLS. 


I 


vif 


gers  from  a  branch  railway,  wliicli  lias  its  terminus  at  tli 
place,  (tlie  Ebensburg  and  Cresson  branch.) 

Withhi  6  or  7  miles  good  trout-fishing  may  be  had  ;  anc 
in  its  season,  there  is  a  fair  show  of  game.  Several  yeai 
ago,  there  was  fine  shooting  within  a  short  distance,  bu 
the  hundred  trains  a  day  on  the  railway  have  scared  th 
game  further  into  the  mountains. 

Cresson  is  rapidly  improving.  This  year,  the  founda 
tions  of  a  large  brick  hotel  will  be  laid,  and  ere  the  seasoi 
of  18G9  arrives,  there  will  be  room  for  upward  of  100( 
visitors. 

The  i)rice  of  board  will  be  fixed  this  season  at  $30  pe 
■week,  one  third  being  deducted  if  the  visitor  rents  a  cot 
tage.  The  tables  are  excellently  kept.  The  first  house  wil 
be  kept,  as  usual,  by  that  agreeable  gentleman,  Mr 
George  W.  Mullin,  assisted  by  his  brother,  Mr.  A.  Gordor 
Mullin. 

CARLISLE   AND    DOUBLING    GAP.] 

Carlisle  Springs  are  within  a  short  distance  of  the  vih 
lage  of  Carlisle,  Pa.,  and  are  much  patronized  by  fami- 
lies  from  Philadelphia  and  Baltimore,  on  account  of  theii 
quiet  retirement,  as  well  as  the  excellent  accommodations 
found  there.  Doubling  Gap  Springs  are  but  a  few  miles 
away,  near  Newville,  where  pure  mountain  air  and  varied 
and  attractive  scenery  may  be  enjoyed  to  repletion.  These 
latter  springs  enjoy  rather  a  local  reputation  only ;  but 
there  is  no  lack  of  interest  eitheif  in  the  place  or  the 
society  to  be  found  there.  Either  of  the  springs  named 
may  be  profitably  visited  by  the  tourists  seeking  health  or 
recreation.  Route  from  New- York  City,  at  8  a.m.,  by  Mor- 
ris and  Essex  (the  more  picturesque)  or  the  New-Jersey 
Central  to  Easton,  84  or  72  miles,  Eastern  Pennsylvania,  to 


SPPwINGS   AND  FALLS. 


37 


terminus  at  tliis 
ii.) 

nay  be  had  ;  and, 
J.  Several  years 
lort  distance,  but 

have  scared  the 

rear,  the  founda- 

nd  ere  the  season 

upward  of  1000 

3eason  at  $30  per 
isitor  rents  a  cot- 
le  first  house  will 
gentleman,  Mr. 
3r,  Mr.  A.  Gordon 

GAP.] 

Istance  of  the  vil- 
Ironized  by  fami- 
account  of  their 
accommodations 
but  a  few  miles 
in  air  and  varied 
repletion.  These 
iation  only  ;  but 
|he  place  or  the 
springs  named 
leeking  health  or 
Lt  8  A.M.,byMo^ 
tlle  New-Jersey 
Pennsylvania,  to  J 


Reading,  13G  miles,  and  Lebanon  Valley  Railways  to  Harris- 
burg,  200  miles  ;  thence  by  Cumberland  VaHey  Railway 
to  Carlisle,  18  miles,  reaching  there  at  about  5  p,:m. 

For  many  years  Carlisle  was  distinguished  as  being  th« 
most  aristocratic  place  in  a^  the  commonwealth  of  Pennsyl 
vania ;  but  it  was  rather  an  aristocracy  of  intellect  than  of 
wealth.  Judge  Gibson,  late  Chief-Justice  of  the  Supremo 
Court  of  the  State,  resided  here.  His  legal  decisions  are 
to-day  regarded  with  deep  reverence  by  the  best  legal 
minds  at  the  bar.  Dickinson  College  (Methodist)  is  located 
here,  and  is  flourishing  under  the  management  of  an  able 
corps  of  professors.  Near  the  suburbs  of  the  borough  are 
the  beautiful  United  States  barracks,  which  the  rebel 
General  Lee  was  magnanimous  enough  to  spare  from  de- 
struction during  his  invasion  into  Pennsylvania,  on  account 
of  pleasant  reminiscences  connected  therewitli,  while  he 
commanded  a  cavalry  regiment  there  as  an  officer  of  the 
United  States.  It  is  within  easy  walliing  distance,  and  is 
always  a  great  point  of  interest  to  strangers. 

BEDFOKD. 

Bedford  Springs,  located  one  mile  from  the  village  of 
Bedford,  on  the  Raystown  branch  of  the  Juniata,  is  an  at- 
tractive place  for  invalid  summer  resort.  The  water  con- 
tains carbonic  acid,  sulphate  of  magnesia,  sulphate  of  lime, 
and  muriate  of  soda.  Excellent  hotel  accommodation  fo2 
visitors. 

Route,  ma  Huntingdon,  on  the  Pennsylvania  Central 
Railway,  106  miles  from  Harrisburg,  204  from  Phila- 
delphia, 151  from  Pittsburg ;  thence  by  the  Huntingdon 
and  Broad  Top  road  to  Mount  Dallas,  44  miles ;  thence  by 
stage,  6  miles. 


38 


SPRINGS   AND   FALLS. 


I!  ! 


GETTYSBURG. 

Since  the  Katalysine  water  has  come  into  celebrity  as 
one  of  the  great  mineral  beverages  of  the  land,  Gettys- 
burg must  be  accounted,  oddly  enough,  among  the  water- 
ing places  of  interest  to  the  tourist.  A  new  and  spacious 
hotel  is  to  be  opened  this  season,  and  certainly  there  are 
attractions  of  a  certain  sort  at  no  point  in  the  country 
more  interesting  than  at  this  "  high- water  mark  of  the  Re- 
bellion." The  spring,  owned  by  the  Lithea  Spring  As- 
sociation, is  said  to  resemble  in  effect  the  German  Vichy ; 
but  it  is  nearly  tasteless.  It  is  situated  about  2  miles 
west  of  the  town. 

Route. — From  New- York  City  one  may  come  in  one 
day,  by  the  route  given  in  the  sketch  of  Carlisle,  above, 
to  Harrisburg  ;  then  along  the  Susquehanna  River  on  the 
Northern  Central  Railway  to  Hanover,  46  miles,  then  by 
the  Gettysburg  Railway,  30  miles. 

A  day,  well  employed,  will  suffice  to  show  the  stranger, 
at  Gettysburg,  the  battle-field  and  cemetery,  while  a 
second  and  third  may  be  spent  in  visiting  the  springs  and 
the  several  objects  of  interest  \^  Rnd  around  the  village. 
The  battle  was  fought  on  the  1st,  2d,  and  3d  of  July,  1863, 
between  the  Union  forces,  under  General  Meade,  and  the 
Confederate  army,  under  General  Lee,  in  which  the  latter 
was  vanquished,  with  a  loss  in  killed,  wounded,  and  pri- 
soners, of  23,000  men.  The  best  approach  to  the  battle- 
field is  that  by  the  Baltimore  turnpike,  which  leads  south- 
wardly from  the  village  directly  to  Cemetery  Hill,  distant 
half  a  mile  from  the  Eagle  Hotel.  Cemetery  Hill  forms 
the  central  and  most  striking  feature  at  Gettysburg.  Here 
General  Howard  established  his  headquarters ;  upon  this 
point  the  heaviest  fire  of  the  enemy  was  concentrated; 


|i       is 


SPRINGS  AND   FALLS. 


39 


ito  celebrity  as 
e  land,  Gettys- 
Long  the  water- 
w  and  spacious 
ainly  there  are 
in  the  country 
mark  of  the  Re- 
lea  Spring  As- 
3erman  Vichy ; 
about  2  miles 

y  come  in  one 

lrlisle,  above, 

aa  River  on  the 

miles,  then  by 

the  stranger, 

itery,  while  a 

|lie  springs  and 

nd  the  village. 

of  July,  1863, 

lleade,  and  the 

Ihich  the  latter 

ided,  and  pri- 

to  the  battle- 

'\i  leads  south- 

|y  Hill,  distant 

sry  Hill  forms 

sburg.    Here 

|rs;  upon  this 

concentrated ; 


and  here  is  most  appropriately  located  the  Nation^  1  Ceme- 
tery, where  are  interred  a  large  number  of  the  Union 
soldiers.      It  was  known  as  Cemetery  Hill  long  before 
the  battle,  the  eastern  slope  of  it  having  been  inclosed 
and  used  as  the  village  burying-ground.     This  should 
also  be  visited  by  the  traveler.     The  view  from  the  crest 
of  the  hill  is  open  and  extended,  affording  every  facility, 
with  the  aid  of  the  accompanying  map,  for  following  the 
movements  of  the  respective  armies.    As  the  inspection  of 
the  cemeteries  must  be  made  on  foot,  the  visitor  will  save 
time  and  labor  by  following  the  route  here  indicated.   The 
Village  Cemetery,  sometimes  called  the  Citizens'  Cemetery, 
in  contradistinction  to  the  National  or  Soldiers'  Cemetery, 
which  adjoins  it,  is  entered  through  a  lofty  arched  gate- 
way from  the  Baltimore  road.   Following  the  main  avenue 
southward,  a  short  walk  brings  the  visitor  to  a  circular 
lot,  well-nigh  covered  with  stones,  which  are  to  be  used  in 
the  construction  of  a  vault.    They  present  an  aspect  at 
once  striking  and  suggestive.    They  cover  the  spot  se- 
lected by  General  Howard  on  the  morning  of  the  engage- 
ment as  his  headquarters,  and  here  the  heaviest  fire  of  the 
rebel  batteries,  numbering  nearly  200  guns,  was  concen- 
trated.   With  wise  and  kindly  forethought,  that  officer 
had  ordered  the  monuments  and  tomb-stones  which  sur- 
rounded the  spot  to  be  taken  down,  so  that  while  some 
were  unavoidably  injured,  comparatively  few  were  destroy- 
ed.    The  marble  monumen!;  erected  to  General  Gettys,  the 
founder  and  early  proprietor  of  Gettysburg,  which  occupies 
a  prominent  position  on  the  right  of  the  avenue  between 
the  ent 'ance  and  this  lot,  is  worthy  of  notice.     Standing 
on  Cemetery  Hill,  the  visitor  has  the  key  to  the  position 
of  the  Union  forces  during  those  eventful  "  three  days  of 
July."    Cemetery  Hill  proper  is  the  termination  of  the 


(1/ 


i 


ml 


i     i!'l 


Mil!' I 


i  N 


idii 


ili 


40 


SPRINGS  AND  FALLS. 


ridge  wliicli  runs  southward  between  the  roads  leading  re« 
spectively  to  Taney  town  and  Eminettsburg.  The  view 
from  this  hill  is  extensive  and  varied.  Westward  the 
horizon  is  hounded  by  the  long  range  of  the  South  Moun- 
tain, beyond  which  lie  Chambersburg  and  Ilagerstown. 
In  the  same  direction,  a  little  to  the  right,  and  rather  more 
than  a  mile  distant,  is  the  Seminary,  near  which  began  the 
battle  of  the  1st,  which  terminated  so  disastrously  to 
Reynolds's  corps.  From  Seminary  Ridge,  General  Lee 
opened  a  furious  bombardment  of  the  Union  position  on 
Cemetery  Hill.  The  cemetery  is  inclosed  with  a  neat 
railing.  On  the  gateway  are  inscribed  the  names  (18  in 
number)  of  the  States  represented  by  those  buried  within. 
The  monument,  the  foundation  of  which  was  laid  Novem- 
ber 19th,  18G3,  will  be  completed  July  4th,  1868.  The  de- 
signer and  contractor  is  James  G.  Batterson,  of  Hartford,  Ct., 
and  the  cost  will  be  $47,000.  It  will  be  60  feet  high,  and 
crowned  with  a  statue  of  Liberty.  At  the  base  of  the  pe- 
destal are  four  buttresses,  surmounted  with  allegorical 
statues,  representing  War,  History,  Peace,  and  Plenty. 
The  monument  occupies  the  crown  of  the  hill,  and  around 
it,  in  semi-circular  slopes,  are  ranged  the  dead,  each  State 
being  represented  by  a  separate  section.  The  divisions 
between  the  States  are  marked  by  alleys  and  pathways, 
radiating  from  the  monument  to  the  outer  circle,  the 
coffin-rows  being  divided  by  continuous  granite  blocks 
about  6  inches  high,  upon  which  are  inscribed  the  name 
and  regiment  of  each  soldier,  as  far  as  ascertained.  Be- 
tween Emettsburg  pike  and  Cemetery  Hill  lies  the  scene 
of  Pickett's  bloody  and  disastrous  charge,  in  which  18,000 
men  are  estimated  to  have  been  engaged.  Following 
Cemetery  Ridge,  and  keeping  before  him  Round  Top 
Mountain,  says  the  historian  of  the  Army  of  the  Potomac. 


SPRINGS  AND  FALLS. 


41 


ds  leading  re- 

The  view 

i^estward  the 

South  Moun- 

Hagerstown. 

d  rather  more 

ich  began  the 

sastrously  to 

General  Lee 

a  position  on 

with  a  neat 

names  (18  in 

)uried  within. 

5  laid  Novem- 

368.    The  de- 

•  Hartford,  Ct., 

eet  high,  and 

ise  of  the  pe- 

1  allegorical 

and  Plenty. 

,  and  around 

d,  each  State 

he  divisiona 

d  pathways, 

r  circle,  the 

nite  blocks 

d  the  name 

tained.    Be- 

s  the  scene 

[vhich  18,000 

Following 

Round  Top 

le  Potomac. 


a  short  walk  will  bring  the  visitor  to  one  of  the  most  in- 
teresting spots  on  this  famous  battle-field.  "This  is  a 
bunch  of  wood  to  which  a  few — it  may  be  a  score  or  two — 
of  the  boldest  and  bravest  that  led  the  van  of  Pickett's 
charging  column,  on  the  2d  of  July,  attained.  Thus  far  the 
swelling  surge  of  invasion  threw  its  spray,  dashing  itself 
to  pieces  on  the  rocky  bulwark  of  Northern  valor.  Let  us 
call  this  the  high- water  mark  of  the  Rebellion."  Seminary 
Ridge,  College  Ilill,  Gulp's  Hill,  Round  Top,  and  Little 
Round  Top,  are  generally  visited.  Willoughby  Run, 
where  General  Buford's  cavalry  held  in  check  the  rebel 
column  under  Hill  for  nearly  two  hours,  is  pointed  out 


THE  MINERAL  SPKIXGS  OP  VIRGINIA. 

The  hotel  charges  at  these  Springs  will  not  exceed  $3, 
nor  be  lower  than  $2.50  per  day,  and  will  be  about  $80  per 
month.  Excursion  tickets,  at  reduced  rates,  will  be  fur- 
n'^hed  during  the  summer  by  the  New-Jersey  Railway 
and  Transportation  Company,  foot  of  Cortlandt  street, 
New-York  City.  ^ 

Travelers  from  every  portion  of  the  Union  can  now,  by 
railway,  reach  Covington,  the  present  terminus  of  the 
Virginia  Central  road,  about  20  miles  distant  from  the 
Wliite  Sulphur. 

Persons  wishing  to  reach  the  Springs  from  the  North 
and  East,  as  well  as  those  from  the  South,  who  pass 
through  Petersburg  or  Richmond,  should  make  Staun- 
ton, 100  miles  east  of  the  Springs,  a  point  in  their  travel. 

Those  traveling  from  the  South  or  South-west  have  a 
continuous  chain  of  railway  routes,  either  by  way  of 
Richmond  or  by  Knoxville,  Tenn.    Those  taking  the  lat- 


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SPRINGS   AND   FALLS. 


43 


ter  route  may  proce(3d  from  Knoxville  by  way  of  Lynch- 
burg to  Charlottesville,  wnere  they  take  the  cars  on  the 
Central  road  by  way  of  Staunton  to  Covington  ;  or,  if  they 
prefer,  they  may  leave  the  cars  at  Bonsack's,  and  proceed 
in  stage-coaches,  about  03  miles,  to  the  White  Sulphur. 

Persons  traveling  from  the  West  ought  either  to  take 
the  cars  at  Memphis  and  proceed  by  way  of  Knoxville,  or 
come  by  way  of  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  road  to  Washing- 
ton, and  thence  by  Staunton  to  Covington.  On  either  of 
these  routes,  after  leaving  the  railway,  the  traveler  will 
find  excellent  stage-coaches  to  convey  him  without  delay, 
over  well-ffraded  roads  and  amidst  beautiful  mountain 
scenery,  to  the  Springs. 

As  soon  as  the  Covington  and  Ohio  road,  which  connects 
with  the  Virginia  Central,  is  completed  to  the  White  Sul- 
phur, which  will  soon  be  the  case,  there  will  be  continuous 
railway  routes  to  the  Springs  from  every  great  section  of 
our  country.  Even  now  there  is  great  expedition  in  the 
travel,  there  being  but  20  miles  of  necessary  staging  to 
reach  them  from  any  quarter.  Travelers  at  this  time 
leaving  Baltimore,  Washington,  or  Richmond  in  the 
morning,  can,  with  comfort,  arrive  at  the  White  Sulphur 
to  breakfast  the  following  morning,  or  at.  a  much  earlier 
hour  if  it  were  desired. 


THE  VIRGINIA  SFBINGS. 

EOUTES. 

Travelers  to  any  of  the  principal  springs  in  the  moun- 
tains of  Virginia,  either  from  the  North,  East,  or  West, 
to  avail  themselves  most  largely  of  railway  facilities,  must 
necessarily  make  Staunton  a  point  in  their  journey. 

From  Staunton,  the  Rockbridge  and  Bath  Alum,  the 
Warm,  Hot,  Healing,  White  Sulphur,  Salt,  and  Red  Sul- 


44 


SPBINGS   AND   PALLS. 


pbnr  Springs,  are  conveniently  reached  by  railway,  with 
small  amount  of  sta;?in^,  and  in  the  order  in  which  they 
are  here  sot  down.  The  Sweet,  and  Red  Sweet  (now  called 
the  Sweet  Chalybeate)  Springs  are  on  the  same  general 
route,  and  are  reached  by  a  detour  of  17  miles  from  the 
White  Sulphur. 

The  Yellow,  the  Montgomery  White,  the  Alleghany, 
Coyner's,  and  Blue  Ridge  Springs,  are  reached  by  the 
traveler  going  east  on  the  Virginia  and  Tennessee  Rail, 
way,  in  the  order  in  which  they  are  here  enumerated. 


SWEET  CHALYBEATE  SmiNGS. 

These  springs,  so  well  known  to  the  public  who  have 
been  in  the  habit  of  visiting  the  Virginia  springs,  are  situa- 
ted on  the  southern  border  of  Alleghany  county,  1  *nile 
west  of  the  Old  Sweet  Springs,  and  IG  south-east  he 
Greenbrier  White  Sulphur.  They  are  20  miles  from  Co- 
vington, the  present  terminus  of  the  Virginia  Central  Rail- 
way, with  which  they  are  connected  by  a  good  road,  over 
which  stage-coaches  run  daily  through  the  summer  season. 

They  are  48  miles  west  from  Bonsack's  Depot,  on  the  Vir- 
ginia and  Tennessee  Railway,  and  a  like  distance  from  Sa- 
lem Depot,  on  the  same  road.  Between  these  depots  and  the 
springs,  good  coaches  run  daily  during  the  watering  season. 

These  springs  were  formerly  known  by  the  name  of  the 
"Red  Sweet,"  from  their  abundant  red  deposit  of  ferru- 
ginous matter,  and  their  general  resemblance  to  the  waters 
of  the  Old  Sweet  Springs. 

But  many  of  the  friends  of  the  waters  have  advised  that 
they  be  called  Sweet  Chalybeate  Springs,  with  a  view  of 
enabling  the  public  more  clearly  to  distinguish  between 
them  and  the  "  Old  Sweet,"  which  are  but  1  mile  distant. 

There  is  thought  to  be  a  propriety  in  such  a  change  of 


SrniXGS   AND  PALLS. 


45 


railway,  witli 
n  which  they 
it  (now  called 
iamo  general 
ilea  from  the 

B  Alleghany, 
died  by  tho 
nnessee  Rail, 
merated. 


lie  who  have 
iga,  are  situa- 
mnty,  1  mile 
h-east  he 
iles  from  Co- 
Central  Rail- 
)d  road,  over 
nmer  season. 
>t,  on  the  Vir- 
nce  from  Sa- 

pots  and  the 
ering  season. 

name  of  the 
)sit  of  ferru- 
;o  the  waters 

advised  that 
th  a  view  of 
lish  between 
mile  distant, 
a  change  of 


J;. 

M 


'1 


name,  not  only  becaiwo  it  will  enable  tho  distant  public 
and  straugL'i's  in  our  mountains  to  <listinguish  more  readily 
between  the  two  springs,  which,  altliough  similar  in  tho 
character  of  their  waters  in  some  respects,  ditlbr  essentially 
in  some  others,  and  especially  in  refenmco  to  tho  relative 
amount  of  iron  contained  in  each.  In  these  springs,  a  very 
large  relative  amount  of  that  ingredient  prevails ;  there 
is  thought  to  be  a  peculiar  propriety  in  designating  them 
Sweet  Chalybeate,  inasmuch  as  the  name  chalybeate  bet- 
ter conforms  to  a  correct  nomenclature  of  calling  waters 
after  the  leading  and  most  efficient  ingredients  in  their 
composition. 

It  would  seem  desirable,  indeed,  that  a  general  reforma- 
tion should  take  place  in  the  naming  of  our  mineral  foun- 
tains, by  which  their  names  would  more  meaningly  and 
clearly  convey  correct  ideas  of  their  medicinal  qualities. 
This,  while  it  would  conform  to  the  demands  of  modern 
chemistry,  at  the  same  time  would  save  the  stranger  and 
the  uninitiated  from  the  common  mistake  of  confounding 
waters  of  dissimilar  chemical  and  medicinal  character ; 
and  this,  mainly,  in  consequence  of  the  unmeaning  but 
often  similar  names  which  they  bear. 

As  samples  of  this  inconvenience,  fruitful  of  error,  it  may 
be  mentioned  that  we  have  perhaps  a  score  of  sulphur 
waters  in  the  State,  designated  as  "White  ;"  several  under 
the  initiatory  cognomen  of  "  Blue,"  "  Gray,"  and  "  Black ;" 
and  three  springs  in  this  immediate  region,  of  which  this 
is  one,  whose  distinctive  designation  is  "Red."  These 
facts,  which  might  be  extensively  multiplied,  are  cited  to 
show  the  reasonableness,  nay,  the  importance,  of  correcting 
the  nomenclature  of  our  springs,  and  in  apology  for  the 
desire,  that  these  heretofore  known  as  the  Red  Sweet  may 
hereafter  be  known  as  the  Sweet  Chalybeate. 


"P  >p,i^«Tl'.vv**<'  ww-w-^'^PF"—  11^7  i_^Pw^.(m^n^|p^^w)-"-»wij.(iJi    J" 


46 


SPRINGS  AND  FALLS. 


(  ' 


The  property  upon  which  these  springs  are  situated  wai 
purchasod  many  years  ago  by  a  gentleman  of  South-Care 
Ijna,  in  reference  to  its  medicinal  waters,  and  the  valuable 
land  that  surrounds  them.  Subsequently,  it  was  ownec 
and  considerably  improved  by  Mr.  Philip  Rodgers,  who  foi 
many  years  kept  the  old  Sweet  Springs.  In  1845,  the  pro^ 
perty  came  into  the  possession  of  John  R.  Sampson,  Esq.,! 
who  made  valuable  additions  to  the  improvements.  Itl 
was  afterward  owned  and  kept  with  great  reputation  as  a 
watering-place  for  several  years  by  Mr.  C.  Bias.  The  pre- 
sent owner  purchased  the  property  in  1862.  The  spring 
buildings,  now  in  good  repair,  are  ample  for  the  accommo- 
dation of  not  less  than  400  persons. 

Routes. — From  any  point  North  or  West,  ma  Washing- 
ton, Gordonsville.  Staunton,  to  Covington,  by  rail ;  thence 
by  a  line  of  stage-coaches  20  miles  to  the  springs. 

Travelers  from  the  South-west,  on  the  Virginia  and 
Tennessee  Railway,  have  their  choice  of  pursidng  the 
railway  line  by  way  of  Lynchburg  to  Covington,  or  of 
leaving  the  cars  at  Salem  or  Bonsack's,  and  taking  stage- 
coaches 40  miles  across  the  mountains  to  the  springs. 

Those  traveling  from  the  South,  ma  Petersburg  or  Rich- 
mond, have  an  option  to  pass  up  the  Central  Railway  to 
Covington,  or  to  take  the  South  Side  Railway  to  Lynch- 
burg, and  the  Virginia  and  Tennessee  Railway  to  Bon- 
sack's or  Salem,  and  thence  stage-coaches  to  the  springs. 

There  are  daily  communications  by  stage  between  these 
springs  and  the  White  Sulphur,  and  also  with  the  Alum, 
Healing,  Hot,  and  Warm  Springs. 


SALT  SULPHUR  SPRINGS. 

The  Salt  Sulphur  Springs,  three  in  number,  are  about 
24  miles  south  from  the  White  Sulphur,  in  Monroe  county, 


_£: 


SPRINGS  AND  FALLS. 


47 


are  situated  was 
1  of  South-Caro- 
ind  the  valuable 
y,  it  \ias  owned 
lodgers,  who  fop 
[n  1845,  the  pro- 
Sampson,  Esq., 
provements.  It 
reputation  as  a 
Bias.  The  pre- 
62.  The  spring 
)r  the  accommo- 

it,  via  Washing- 
by  rail ;  thence 
prings. 

3  Virginia  and 
pursidng  the 
vington,  or  of 
d  taking  stage- 
e  springs, 
•sburg  or  Rich- 
ral  Railway  to 
ay  to  Lynch- 
Iway  to  Bon- 
tlie  springs, 
between  these 
[ith  the  Alum, 


)er,  are  about 
)nroe  county, 


'  and  near  Union  county-seat.  They  are  surrounded  by 
mountains :  Peter's  Mountain  south  and  east,  the  Allegha- 
ny to  the  north,  and  Swope's  Mountain  to  the  west,  near 
the  base  of  which  are  the  springs  themselves.  Messrs. 
Erskine  and  Caruthers  own  the  property,  and  can  accom- 
modate 350  guests. 

The  Salt  Sulphur  was  discovered  in  consequence  of  hav- 
ing been  observed  as  a  favorite  "  lick"  for  deer  and  buffa- 
loes,  by  Mr.  Erwin  Benson,  in  1805.  It  is  inclosed  in  a 
marble  reservoir  two  feet  square  and  two  feet  ten  inches 
deep,  with  a  pavilion. 

The  Iodine  or  New  Spring  was  discovered  by  the  pro- 
prietors in  1838,  while  opening  a  drain  for  the  water  of  the 
first.  Owing  to  a  large  deposit  of  sulphur,  in  combination 
with  some  peculiar 'organic  matter  which  floats  as  a  pel- 
licle on  the  surface,  this  water  is  less  limpid  than  that  of 
the  Salt.  Under  a  strong  sun  it  occasionally  deposits  a 
beautiful  pink  sediment. 

The  Upper  or  Old  Spring  was  discovered  by  Mr.  Alex- 
•  ander  Hutcherson,  in  1803,  while  searching  for  salt  water 
on  Indian  Creek.  The  water  of  this  is  now  almost  ex- 
clusively used  for  the  baths,  having  been  superseded  as  a 
drink  by  the  Salt  Sulphur  proper. 

RED  SULPHUR. 

The  Red  Sulphur  Springs  are  in  the  southern  part  of 
Monroe  county,  42  miles  from  the  White  Sulphur,  17  from 
the  Salt,  39  from  the  Sweet,  and  32  from  the  Blue  Sulphur 
Springs.  They  have  been  famous  for  more  than  fifty 
years,  and  have  accommodations  for  350  guests. 

A  few  miles  to  the  south-west  is  a  recently  improved 
sulphur  spring  on  New  River,  Giles  county.  The  waters, 
not  yet.  analyzed,  belong  to  the  sulphur  class.    The  ao- 


I     ! 


!  I 


48 


SPRINGS   AND  FALLS. 


commodations  are  good,  and  the  vicinity  is  liiglily  attraj 
live  and  romantic.     The  celebrated  Salt  Pond  is  near  b] 
Route,  stage  from  Newborn  or  Christiansburg,  on  the  Vi^ 
ginia  and  Tennessee  Railway,  or  from  the  Red,  Salt,  o| 
Montgomery  White  Sulphur  Springs. 

SWEET  SPRINGS. 

The  sweet  springs  are  in  the  eastern  part  of  Monro^ 
county,  17  miles  south-east  of  the  White  Sulphur,  and  2S 
east  of  the  Salt  Sulphur ;  discovered,  1764  ;  the  first  ii 
this  section  of  the  State.  Analyzed  in  1774  by  Bishop 
Madison,  President  of  William  and  Mary  College.  The 
location  is  in  a  beautiful  valley,  5  miles  long,  by  a  half 
mile  to  three  fourths  wide  ;  bounded  on  the  north  by  the 
Alleghanies,  and  south  by  the  Sweet  Spring  Mountain. 
Accommodations  for  600  to  700  guests,  and  these  are  to  be 
doubled  soon.    Contents,  salt,  iron,  and  earth. 

HOT  SPRINGS. 

The  Hot  Springs  are  in  Bath  county,  35  miles  north- 
east of  the  White  Sulphur,  and  21  west  of  Millborough 
Depot.  There  are  six  baths,  at  different  temperatures, 
from  100°  to  106°  of  heat.  In  each  of  these,  arrangements 
are  made  for  the  sweat,  plunge,  or  douche  bath. 

"WARM  SPRINGS. 

The  Warm  Springs  are  situated  in  a  narrow  valley  at 
the  western  base  of  the  mountain  bearing  their  name,  in 
Bath  county,  50  miles  west  of  Staunton,  and  5  miles  north- 
east of  the  Hot  Springs.  Their  reputation  is  80  yearg 
old  and  more.  They  were  early  in  great  favor,  and  were 
frequented  before  any  other  in  the  State  but  the  Sweet 
Springs  were  known. 


SPRINGS   AND   FALLS. 


49 


is  highly  attrac. 
Pond  is  near  by. 
sburof,  on  the  Vir- 
the  Red,  Salt,  or 


I  part  of  Monroe 
)  Sulphur,  and  22 
764  ;  the  first  in 
1774  by  Bishop 
y  College.  The 
1  long,  by  a  half 
the  north  by  the 
pring  Mountain, 
d  these  are  to  be 
arth. 


85  miles  north- 
of  Millborough 
temperatures, 
>,  arrangements 
jatli. 


irrow  valley  at 
their  name,  in 
5  miles  north- 
)n  is  80  yearg 
avor,  and  were 
Jut  the  Sweet 


HEALING  SPRINGS. 

Bath  county  is  named  for  its  thermal  springs,  for  which 
the  chain  of  valleys  which  lie  at  the  base  of  the  Warm 
Spring  ^lountain  is  so  remarkable.  This  is  located  in 
Falling  Spring  Valley,  the  southernmost  of  the  group. 
There  are  three  separate  fountains  here  ;  two  close  to  each 
other,  and  the  third  200  yards  distant,  in  the  same  ravine. 
Uniform  temperature,  84°  Fahrenheit.  They  have  not 
been  analyzed.  No  accommodations  were  provided  here 
for  a  long  time,  owing  to  a  bitter  feud  between  the  par- 
ties to  whom  the  tract  belonged  ;  but  the  great  demand  of 
late  for  mineral  waters  has  somewhat  improved  the  con- 
dition of  the  place.     See  the  table  of  Virginia  Springs. 

ROCKBRIDGE  ALTTSI. 

Being  outside  the  great  "spring  circle,"  this  valuable 
fountain  was  long  neglected,  though  known  60  years  ago ; 
but  there  are  now  accommodations  for  600  to  800  visitors, 
which  will  probably  be  much  increased  by  the  opening  of 
the  present  season.  Messrs.  Frazier  &  Randolph  are  the 
proprietors.  There  are  five  fountains,  each  slightly  differ- 
ing from  the  other,  percolating  through  a  heavy  slate- 
stone  cliff.  A  chalybeate  spring  adds  attraction  to  the 
place,  a  few  hundred  yards  from  the  others. 

BATH  ALUM. 

The  Bath  Alum  Springs  are  situated  near  the  eastern 
base  of  the  same  mountain,  on  the  main  stage-road  from 
Staunton  to  the  Warm  Springs  themselves,  45  miles  west 
of  the  former  and  5  east  of  the  latter.  The  grounds  have 
been  improved  within  5  years  by  Mr.  John  W.  Frazier. 
The  waters  fall  from  a  slatestone  cliff,  12  or  15  feet  high. 
Good  and  extensive  accommodations  may  be  had  here. 


!  'i 


)  1 


{ 


:''!ij 


\'\ 


l' 


■ilt' 


!l   I 


50 


SPRINGS   AND  FALLS. 


ROCKBRIDGE  BATHS. 


These  are  in  Rockbridge  county,  on  the  stage-road  from| 
Ijexington  to  Goshen  depot,  on  the  Virginia  Central  Rail- 
way, about  midway.    Tliere  are  two  baths,  and  hotel  ac- 
commodations for  150  to  200  guests. 

daggar's  spring. 

Daggar's  Spring  is  in  the  extreme  north-western  corner 
of  Botetourt  county,  30  miles  east  of  the  Alleghanies,  and 
just  at  the  western  base  of  the  Garden  Mountain,  on  the 
main  road  from  Lynchburg  to  White  Sulphur  Springs,  by 
way  of  the  James  River  Canal.  The  Natural  Bridge  of 
Virginia  is  19  miles  west,  by  a  direct  road,  and  28  miles 
by  way  of  Buchanan,  the  usual  route.  The  spring  takes 
its  name  from  its  discoverer,  who  opened  the  place  for  a 
resort,  some  40  years  ago.  Mr.  Shields  is  the  present  pro- 
prietor, and  he  finds  places  for  200  guests,  at  his  popular 
hotel.  The  society  here  is  chiefly  local,  and  most  agree- 
able. The  spring  is  of  the  sulphur  class.  Distance  from 
the  White  Sulphur,  the  Sweet,  and  the  Sweet  Chalybeate 
Springs,  each  about  43  miles. 

COLD  SULPHUR. 

This  is  7  miles  east  of  Rockbridge  Alum,  and  2  miles 
west  of  Goshen  depot,  Rockbridge  county,  on  the  Virginia 
Central  Railway.  Accommodations  for  100  guests,  at  Mr. 
Leech's  hotel. 

YARIETY   SPRINGS 

Is  the  appropriate  name  given  to  a  series  of  fountains 
impregnated  with  alumina,  iron,  sulphur,  the  characteris- 
tics of  the  Healing  Spring,  etc.  They  are  situated  in  Au- 
gusta county,  17  miles  west  of  Staunton,  near  Pond  Gap 
Station,  Virginia  Central  Railway.    The  springs  are  quite 


'lii 


SPRINGS   AND  FALLS. 


51 


stage-road  from 
La  Central  Rail- 
3,  and  hotel  ac- 


-  western  corner 

lleghanies,  and 

iuntain,  on  the 

liur  Springs,  hy 

iiral  Bridge  of 

i,  and  28  miles 

e  spring  takes 

the  place  for  a 

he  present  pro- 

at  his  popular 

|nd  most  agree- 

Distance  from 

et  Chalybeate 


I,  and  2  miles 
the  Virginia 
Iguests,  at  Mr. 


of  fountains 
characteris- 
luated  in  Au- 
l-r  Pond  Gap 

igs  are  quite 


new,  and  the  accommodations  are  yet  incomplete;  hut 
considerable  local  patronage  has  been  already  bestowed. 

stribling's. 

Tliis  popular  watering-place,  30  years  old,  was  named 
for  its  first  energetic  proprietor,  Mr.  Erasmus  Stribling. 
Location,  13  miles  north  of  Staunton,  in  Augusta  county  ; 
stage  communication.  These  are  sulphur,  alum,  and  cha- 
lybeate springs.  The  climate  here  is  peculiarly  good,  and 
visitors  stay  quite  late  in  the  season. 

kawley's  spring 

Is  called  the  best  chalybeate  water  in  Virginia.  It  is 
situated  on  the  southern  slope  of  the  North  Mountain,  in 
Rockingham  county,  12  miles  north-west  of  Harrisonburg, 
and  120  miles  north-east  of  the  White  Sulphur.  Accom- 
modations for  150  guests. 

burner's  springs,  or  the  seven  fountains. 

Are  situated  on  the  western  base  of  Massanutten  Moun- 
tain, in  Shenandoah  county.  Reached  from  Woodstock,  8 
miles.  The  central  spring  is  sulphur,  the  others  are  free- 
stone, slate,  limestone,  and  carbonic  acid. 

SHANNONDALE. 

On  a  peninsula  of  the  Shannondale  River,  called  the 
Horseshoe,  in  Jefferson  county,  are  three  springs,  similar 
to  the  celebrated  Bedford  water — saline  chalybeate.  Ac- 
commodation for  150  persons  ;  scenery  unsurpassed. 

BATH  OR  BERKELEY  SPRINGS. 

The  Berkeley  Springs,  in  the  town  of  Bath,  Morgan 
county,  were  very  famous  in  the  colonial  times,  when  the 
accommodations  were  eminently  primitive.    The  amuse- 


ii 


'ill 


l^    !1 


52 


SPRINGS   AND   FALLS. 


ments  in  those  days  were  of  a  character  not  now  deemed 
most  fitting  for  the  quiet  elegance  of  a  watering-plcce. 
After  the  Ke volution,  the  accommodations  were  greatly  im- 
proved and  increased  ;  but  Saratoga  and  theWhite  Sulphur 
began  to  rival  Berkeley,  and  their  superior  arrangements 
soon  left  her  far  behind  in  the  race.  In  1844,  a  fire  des- 
troyed fourteen  buildings,  and  one  half  the  hotel  accommo- 
dation. In  1845,  however.  Col.  John  Stmther,  lessee  of  the 
property,  commenced  building  an  elegant  hotel,  which 
was  finished  in  1848.  This,  and  the  completion  of  the 
Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railway,  have  restored  the  ancient 
prosperity  of  Berkeley  Springs  ;  and  now  she  entertains 
in  every  season  some  1200  to  1500  visitors.  There  are 
three  large  springs,  and  a  number  of  smaller  ones,  forming 
a  bold  and  beautiful  stream  which,  lower  down,  supplies 
a  number  of  mills  with  water-power.  The  water  is  light, 
sparkling,  and  tasteless.  Elegant  accommodations  for 
bathing  ;  the  ladies'  building  has  nine  private  baths,  and 
a  plunge  bath  30  by  16  feet,  of  white  marble  ;  and  that  for 
gentlemen  has  ten  bathing-rooms,  with  a  swimming-bath 
60  by  30  feet.  Strother's  Hotel  will  accommodate  400 
persons  ;  O'Ferrall's,  150 ;  other  places,  150  more. 

There  are  several  other  yet  unimproved  sulphur  and 
chalybeate  springs,  of  which  Ornick's  and  Capon  are  the 
chief. 

KOUTE. 

By  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railway  to  Sir  John's  Depot,  130 
miles  west  of  Baltimore,  and  49  miles  east  of  Cumberland ; 
thence  2^  miles  by  stage  to  the  springs. 

YELLOW  SPRINGS. 

The  Yellow  Springs  are  situated  in  an  elevated  part  of 
Montgomery  county,  4  miles  from  Christiansburg,  on  the 


SPRINGS  AND  FALLS. 


53 


Virginia  and  Tennessee  Railway.  They  are  5  miles  from 
Montgomery  White  Sulphur,  13  from  the  AUeghanies,  3o 
from  Salt  Sulphur,  and  60  from  Greenbrier  White  Sulphur. 
The  hotel  buildings  here  are  new,  pleasant,  and  well- 
shaded  by  great  forest-trees.  The  resort  dates  back  60 
years. 


;i 


•♦• 


OHIO  WHITE   SULPHUR  SPRING. 

Near  the  geographical  centre  of  Ohio,  in  Delaware 
county,  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Scioto,  surrounded  by  a 
country  broken,  hilly,  and  beautiful,  are  the  famous  White 
Sulphur  Springs  of  Ohio.  The  place  has  been  known  as 
Hart's  Spring,  for  more  than  20  years.  The  buildings  of 
the  public  houses  are  pleasantly  placed  on  an  undulating 
plateau  120  feet  above  the  Scioto,  800  feet  back.  There 
are  accommodations  for  600  guests.  Bath-houses  of  all  the 
improved  kinds,  with  steam-heating  apparatus,  are  pro- 
vided. The  steady  force  with  which  the  sulphur  water  is 
expelled  from  its  subterranean  channel  is  one  of  the  won- 
ders of  nature,  quite  unexplained  hitherto. 

Near  this  Sulphur  Spring  are  three  other  mineral  foun- 
tains, respectively  chalybeate,  magnesian,  and  saline  chaly- 
beate. 

THE  BLUE  LICK  SPRINGS  OF  KENTUCKY. 

Sulphurous  saline  waters  are  found  in  several  foun- 
tains on  the  bank  of  Licking  River,  in  Nicholas  county, 
24  miles  from  the  Ohio,  and  on  the  main  road  from  Mays- 
ville  to  Lexington.  Salt  was  manufactured  here  until 
within  18  years.  The  waters  are  among  the  most  popular 
in  the  country,  being  extensively  sent  out  for  commerce,  as 
well  as  used  by  the  visitors. 


ev 


I 


54 


SPRINGS  AND   FALLS. 


I 

:  H 

I'*  !f,  .■ 


■IP 


TBENTON  FALLS. 

Few  of  the  many  places  of  resort  in  our  country  give 
more  thorough  satisfaction  to  the  visitor  than  Trenton 
Falls.  Not  only  are  the  falls  magnificent  as  a  spectacle 
of  natural  beauty,  but  their  vicinity  includes  localities 
equally  charming.  Indeed,  were  there  no  cataract  at 
all,  the  magnificent  gorge  through  which  the  stream 
runs,  and  the  rich  beauty  of  its  banks,  would  alone  repay 
the  visitor. 

There  are  two  hotels  at  the  falls,  the  finest  being 
Moore's  Trenton  Falls  House.  Mr.  Moore,  who  was  for- 
merly a  New- York  merchant,  came  into  possession  of  the 
property  a  number  of  years  ago,  and,  leaving  the  excite- 
ment of  business  life  in  the  metropolis,  devoted  his  atten- 
tion to  this  delightful  spot.  He  added  considerably  to  the 
buildings,  and,  being  a  man  of  refined,  artistic  taste,  im- 
parted to  it  all  the  graces  with  which  culture  and  taste 
adorn  a  home.  Indeed,  this  is  the  peculiar  charm  of  the 
Trenton  Falls  Hotel.  It  is  not  a  mere  hotel,  but,  even  to 
the  transient  traveler,  is  a  beautiful  home.  Its  rooms  are 
quietly  and  elegantly  furnished  ;  its  walls  are  hung  with 
rare  paintings  and  engravings,  while  here  and  there  are 
displayed  original  sketches  by  some  of  our  leading  artists, 
to  whom  Trenton  Falls  is  a  familiar  haunt.  In  the  music- 
room  is  a  large  and  superior  pipe-organ,  and  among  the 
guests  can  usually  be  found  some  one  or  more  who  know 
how  to  elicit  its  rich  harmonies. 

In  more  material  features,  this  hotel  is  not  wanting. 
The  rooms  are  clean  and  spacious,  and  no  one  could  ask 
for  a  better  table.  Dinner  is  served  at  about  one  o'clock, 
and  tea  on  the  arrival  of  the  coach  bringing  passengers 
from  the  railway  station.  The  advent  of  this  vehicle, 
which  also  carries  the  mail,  is  one  of  the  daily  excitements 
at  this  place,  and  the  guests  always  throng  the  wide  and 


SPRINGS  AND  FALLS. 


65 


ctieerful  piazza  to  look  among  tlio  new-comers  for  any 
friends  to  whom  they  may  add  their  greetings  to  the  cor- 
dial welcome  which  tliis  attractive  hotel  always  seems  to 
extend  to  the  travelers  who  may  seek  its  pleasant  hospi- 
tality. 

Visitors  thus  usually  reach  Trenton  Falls  just  before 
tea.  The  route  from  New- York  is  by  the  Hudson  River 
Railway  or  steamboats  to  Albany,  thence  by  the  New- 
York  Central  Road  to  Utica,  where  passengers  take  the 
Black  River  Road,  and,  after  a  couple  of  hours'  ride  north- 
ward, reach  the  Trenton  Falls  Station.  Here,  coaches  are 
in  waiting  to  convey  them  direct  to  the  hotel.  t 

After  a  night's  rest,  the  exploration  of  the  vicinity  be- 
gins. Directly  behind  the  house  is  a  woodland  grove,  and 
a  path  winding  through  it  brings  one  to  the  brink  of  the 
river  near  the  first  fall.  There  is  also  a  steep  staircase 
leading  directly  down  to  the  edge  of  the  stream,  which 
just  below  the  hotel  emerges  from  the  magnificent  ravine 
through  which  it  courses,  to  meander  through  smiling 
meadows  and  quiet  farms.  A  path  has  been  cut  along  the 
edge  of  this  ravine,  and  it  is  quite  possible  to  ascend  the 
stream  to  beyoni  the  highest  fall,  thus  exploring  at  lei 
sure  all  its  numerous  beauties.  At  this  starting-point  the 
visitor  find  the  river  to  be  very  narrow — ^in  times  of  drought 
not  over  10  feet  wide,  and  in  seasons  of  freshets  over  20 — 
and  hemmed  in  on  either  side  by  perpendicular  walls  of 
rock.  Forty-five  rods  below  is  the  outlet  of  the  chasm, 
and  37  rods  above,  the  first  fall.  The  pathway  in  this 
latter  direction  has  been  blasted  under  an  overhanging 
rock,  and,  though  apparently  dangerous,  is  in  reality  quite 
safe  to  all  excepting  the  peculiarly  nervous.  Thousands 
of  ladies  every  year  pass  along  this  narrow  way,  but  there 
is  no  record  of  accident.  At  some  points  this  pathway  ia 
as  much  as  20  feet  above  the  level  of  the  stream,  and  the 


!l; 


56 


SPRINGS  AND  PALLS. 


rapids  are  here  peculiarly  grand.  In  a  few  moments 
Sherman's  Fall  is  reached,  the  water  dashing  over  an 
immense  parapet  of  rock,  while  on  either  side  the  rocky- 
walls  of  the  gorge  ascend  in  sheer  precipices  to  a  fearful 
height.  The  pathway  leads  over  broken  rocks,  continually 
ascending  until  the  delighted  visitor  finds  himself  on  a 
level  with  the  parapet  wall,  whence  he  can  gaze  down 
into  the  chasm  of  dashing  waters.  Of  course,  the  force  and 
beauty  of  this  fall  varies  with  the  condition  of  the  stream  ; 
but  even  when  the  water  is  at  the  lowest,  it  is  still 
grand,  and,  indeed,  were  there  no  water  at  all,  the  chasm 
itself  ,and  wild  grandeur  of  distorted  rocks  around  would 
render  the  spot  a  notable  one.  The  falling  water  here 
often  takes  a  rich  amber  hue. 

Beyond  this  fall  the  stream  grows  wider.  More  rapids 
are  passed,  and  the  pathway  leads  under  a  mass  of  pro- 
jecting rock  where  all  visitors  must  bend  low.  Just  be- 
yond this  point  a  vast  flat  rock  expands  out  toward  the 
middle  of  the  stream,  and,  stepping  upon  this,  a  full  and 
glorious  view  of  the  High  Falls  is  suddenly  obtained.  Mr. 
Sherman's  excellent  description,  written  thirty  years  ago, 
is  still  exactly  applicable :  "The  eye,  elevated  at  a  con- 
siderable angle,  beholds  a  perpendicular  rock  100  feet 
high,  extending  across  the  opening  in  a  diagonal  line 
from  the  mountainous  walls  on  each  side,  rising  70  or  80 
feet  still  higher.  Over  this  the  whole  river  descends,  first 
perpendicularly  about  40  feet,  the  main  body  rushing  to 
the  left.  On  the  right  it  pours  down  in  a  beautiful  white 
sheet.  For  a  short  distance  in  the  middle  the  rock  is  left 
entirely  naked,  exhibiting  a  perpendicular  and  bold  breast 
work,  as  though  reared  by  art  to  divide  the  beautiful  white 
sheet  on  the  one  side  from  the  overwhelming  fury  of  the 
water  on  the  other.  They  unite  on  a  flat  below ;  then, 
with  a  tumultuous  foam,  veer  suddenly  down  an  inclina* 


SPRINGS   AND   FALLS. 


57 


t3 

an 

[Ul 

lly 
1  a 
iwn 

and 

im; 

still 

asm 

onlcL 

liere 

aplds 

[  pro- 
it  be- 

d  tlie 

1  and 
Mr. 

Is  ago, 
con- 
feet 

W  line 
or  80 
Is,  first 
ling  to 
white 
is  left 
[breast 
wliite 
of  the 
;  then, 
,aclina- 


lion  of  rocky  steps,  wlicnco  the  whole  river  is  precipitated 
into  a  wide,  deep,  and  dark  basin,  40  feet  underneath, 
mountainous  walls  rising  on  each  side  of  the  stream  near- 
ly 200  feet,  tall  hemlocks  and  bending  cedars  extending 
their  branches  on  the  verge  above,  small  shrubbery  varie- 
gating here  and  there  their  stupendous  and  naked  sides. 
On  the  right  of  the  basin  a  charming  verdure  entirely 
overspreads  a  smoothly  rounding  and  majestic  prominence, 
which  reaches  half-way  up  the  towering  summit,  and  over 
the  whole  sky  minglos  with  retiring  evergreens,  until, 
verging  in  perspective  to  the  distant  angle  of  incidence, 
they  are  lost  in  the  ethereal  expanse  beyond.  Such  are 
the  High  Falls,  which  the  pen  may  fuintly  describe,  and 
of  which  the  pencil  may  portray  the  outline  ;  but  Nature 
reserves  to  herself  the  prerogative  of  giving  to  her  visitors 
the  rapturous  impression." 

One  of  the  mo'^t  delightful  times  at  which  to  visit  this 
bewitching  spot  is  late  in  the  afternoon,  when  the  shadow 
from  the  hill  and  forest  on  the  west  bank  of  the  stream 
begins  to  creei^  up  the  rocky  front  of  the  eastern  side, 
driving  the  rich  sunlight  up  the  red  rock  and  from  the 
richly  variegated  foliage.  At  the  summit  of  the  falls  a 
rude  house  of  refreshment  has  been  built,  from  the  balcony 
of  which  a  fine  view  may  be  obtained  of  the  falls  and  of 
the  river  beyond. 

For  the  charms  of  this  enchanting  locality  do  not  end 
here.  About  40  rods  further  up  the  stream — now  stretch- 
ing out  into  a  wide  though  shallow  river — is  the  so-called 
Mill  Dam  Fall,  14  feet  high  and  extending  across  the  en- 
tire stream.  When  the  water  is  high,  this  fall  is  exqui- 
sitely beautiful,  for  its  graceful  uniformity  is  then  broken 
by  a  scries  of  semi-circular  jets  of  water  formed  by  pro- 
jecting bits  of  rock,  between  and  not  over  which  the 


ii* 


58 


SrRINGS  AND   FALLS. 


I 


Ji 


¥  II 


■   lllil        III    I 


water  runs  when  the  stream  is  low.  Friendly  boulders 
lie  on  the  bed  of  the  river  a  few  rods  below  this  fall,  by 
means  of  which  it  is  frequently  possible  to  get  almost  to 
the  middle  of  the  stream. 

A  little  farther  on,  the  river  again  suddenly  contracts, 
forming  that  scene  of  wild  beauty  known  as  the  Aluam- 
BBA,  including  a  cascade.  Still  further  (after  passing  a 
curious  circular  hole,  5  or  G  feet  deep,  and  called  both  the 
PoTAsn  Kettle  and  Jacob's  Well)  is  the  extraordinary 
spot  known  as  The  Rocky  Heart,  where  the  water,  in 
its  circumscribed  limits,  has  worn  for  itself  a  deep  hole  or 
bay,  in  the  outline  of  which  the  imaginative  can  discern 
the  shape  of  a  heart.  It  is  only  safe  to  pass  a  few  rods  be- 
yond t^  is  point,  a  huge  projecting  rock  forming  a  sudden 
end  to  the  hitherto  conveuient  pathway.  Looking  up  the 
chasm  from  this  point,  it  still  appears  most  wildly  invit- 
ing ;  and  it  is  well  that  the  tourist  s  re  ute  ends  at  this  cli- 
max of  wild  beauty ;  for  a  few  rods  further  the  gorge  ends, 
and  the  tamer  Bcnnery  of  low  I 'fuks  and  cultivated  fields 
is  resumed. 

To  those  interested  in  geology,  the  vicinity  of  Trenton 
Falls  offers  special  attractions.  There  is  an  abundance  of 
fossil  remains,  and  the  various  strata  of  the  rocks  are  dis- 
played to  the  greatest  possible  advantage.  Mr.  Sher- 
man— who,  by  the  way,  built  the  hotel  at  the  Falls  and 
first  directed  public  attention  thereto — includes  in  his  ac- 
count from  which  we  have  already  quoted  an  interesting 
treatise  on  these  geological  formations.  It  is  contii^ned  in 
an  elegant  little  volume,  oditod  by  the  In.te  N.  P.  "Willis, 
entiUeu  Trenton  Falls,  Picturesque  and  Descriptive,  to  bo 
had  at  the  hotel.  Mr.  Willis,  by  the  way,  was  a  great  ad- 
mirer of  this  delightful  spot,  and  frequently  wrote  about 
it  in  the  Home  Journal,  besides  describing  it  more  fully 


SPRINGS   AND   FALLS. 


59 


it  to 
acts, 

UAM- 

U  tlie 
tinary 
ter,  in 
ole  or 
Ascern 
3ds  lie- 
sudden 
up  the 
y  invit- 
^liia  cli- 
(i  ends, 
1  fields 

Trenton 
lance  of 
are  dis- 
|r.  Slier- 
[alls  and 
his  ac- 
^eresting 
allied  in 
.Willis, 
ive,  to  bo 
[great  ad- 
jlG  about 
ore  fully 


in  a  story  called  Edith  Linscy,  one  of  his  earliest  produc- 
tions. Mrs.  Fanny  Kemble  has  devoted  to  it  a  graceful 
ode,  and  hundreds  of  newspaper  writers  have  made  it  tlio 
subject  of  communications  more  or  less  appropriate.  In 
every  instance  this  beautiful  stream  and  its  noble  cascades 
have  received  unstinted  praise,  to  which  every  fresh  visitor 
adds  his  or  her  approving  word.  Many,  fresh  from  Nia- 
gara, declare  their  preference  for  Trenton  Falls ;  but  the 
two  are  so  utterly  different  that  they  can  not  be  fairly 
compared.  At  Trenton  there  is  little  of  that  impressive 
immensity  that  is  the  awful  peculiarity  of  Niagara ;  but 
in  mere  beauty  and  variety  it  is  superior. 

Walks. — The  vicinity  of  Trenton  Falls  offers  some  de- 
lightful rambles.  It  is  worth  while  to  go  to  the  bridge 
which  crosses  the  stream  a  short  distance  below  the  chasm, 
cross  it,  and  ascend  the  sloping  hills  beyond,  whence  there 
is  a  fine  view  of  the  surrounding  country  with  its  rolling 
elevations  and  its  richly  cultivated  fields.  While  on  this 
side  of  the  river  it  is  well  to  follow  a  comparatively  un- 
frequented pathway  through  the  woods  along  the  summit 
of  the  cliff,  occasionally  catching  glimpses  of  the  river  roll- 
ing turbulently  far  below  in  its  narrow  gorge,  and  to  per- 
severe until  the  High  Falls  is  reached.  Another  pleasant 
walk  is  along  the  banks  of  the  stream,  on  the  same  side  with 
+he  hotel,  to  Prospect  Village,  3  miles  distant.  Here  is  an- 
other fall,  a  bridge,  with  a  gloomy  ravine,  and  a  pictur- 
esque old  mill,  forming  altogether  a  scene  of  rare  beauty, 
though  far  different  in  character  from  those  previously  de- 
scribed. Indeed,  this  cascade  at  Prospect  is  not  sufficiently 
appreciated ;  but  no  visitor  to  Trenton  should  leave  the 
locality  without  witnessing  this  charming  sight.  Among 
other  places  of  interest  in  the  vicinity  are  the  Trout  Ponds, 
Cold  Brook,  Hinkley's  Mills,  Baron  Steuben's  Monument 


60 


SPRINGS   AND   FALLS. 


at  Rcmsen,  and  Star's  Hill,  commandinof  a  fine  vie\r. 
These  localit  s  arc  rather  too  distant  from  the  hotel  to  be 
included  under  the  head  of  "  walks/'  and  should  be  visited 
in  carriages.  The  view  from  Star's  Hill  includes  the  whole 
region  of  country  southward  to  the  ISIohawk  and  to  the 
hills  of  Clinton  and  Sharon  ;  to  the  west,  Lake  Oneida  can 
be  seen,  and  to  the  east  the  mountains  of  Vermont  and  the 
Adirondack  range.  Far  to  the  north  stretches  that  vast 
primeval  forest  which  covers  so  largo  a  portion  of  North- 
ern New- York,  and  extends  in  its  unbroken  solitude  even 
to  the  distant  Saint  Lawrence. 

How  LOITG  TO  STAY. — Trenton  Falls  are  often  visited  by 
picnic  i^arties,  who  arrive  in  the  morning,  stay  a  few  hours, 
and  depart  in  the  afternoon.  Such  is  the  custom  of  too 
many  tourists.  Of  course,  in  even  this  brief  interval  it  is 
possible  to  walk  through  the  gorge  from  the  staircr.se  near 
the  hotel  to  the  Rocky  Heart,  and  to  gain  even  a  vivid  im- 
pression of  the  Falls  ;  but  this  hurried  visit  is  by  no  means 
thorouq-hlv  satisfactory.  It  seems  almost  sacrilegious  to 
gulp  down,  as  it  were,  in  one  brief  day  the  rare  beauties 
of  this  exquisite  shrine  of  nature.  To  fully  appreciate  it, 
one  should  see  tlie  scenery  by  the  rich  light  of  late  after- 
noon and  early  twilight,  and,  if  possible,  by  moonlight  too. 
Even  these  two  days  will  not  allow  time  enough  to  visit 
the  places  of  interest  in  the  vicinity,  and  a  week  is  not  too 
much  for  even  the  transient  tourist  to  devote  to  this  charm- 
ing locality.  If  detained  over  the  Sabbath,  places  of  wor- 
ship will  be  found  at  Trentoi;  Village,  including  the  old- 
est Unitarian  church  in  the  State. 

ExPEXSES. — Mr.  Moore,  at  his  first-class  hotel,  charges 
less  than  in  most  other  hotels  of  the  same  rank.  By  the 
week,  we  believe,,  the  price  is  |21,  and  by  the  day  not  more 
than  $4;  if  as  much. 


3  vicv:, 
3I  to  be 
!  visited 
e  wliole 
.  to  the 
3ida  can 
and  tlie 
liat  vast 
[  Nortli- 
Ldo  even 

isited  \)J 
!W  hours, 
m  of  too 
jrval  it  is 
cr.se  near 
vivid  im- 
no  means 
?gious  to 
;  beauties 
rcciate  it, 
ate  after- 
licrlit  too. 
.1  to  visit 
b  not  too 
is  charm- 
s  of  wor- 
the  old- 


Falls  of  Minnehaha,  Minnesota. 


I'*' 


charpres 

By  the 

not  more 


SPEINGS  AND   FALLS. 


61 


GENESEE  FALLS. 


The  Falls  of  the  Genesee  River,  at  Rocliester,  are  to  be 
reached  cither  by  the  New- York  Central  or  the  Erie  Rail- 
way. Rochester  is  375  miles  distant  from  the  metropolis 
by  the  forme ;,  and  385  by  the  latter  route.  A  sketch  of 
the  "Flour  City"  may  be  found  in  the  article  entitled 
New-York  Central  Railway.  Hotels;  the  Osburn, 
Brackett,  Congress,  and  Clinton;  the  first  most  remote, 
the  last  a  quarter-mile  distant,  and  the  other  two  close  to 
the  Central  depot  and  nearest  the  Falls.  The  city  horse- 
cars  run  to  a  point  below  the  third  fall,  about  4  miles 
from  the  Central  depot,  and  4^  or  5  from  the  Erie  or 
"Valley"  depot.  The  Middle  Fall  is  also,  owing  to  the 
position  of  the  road,  convenient  of  access  from  the  great 
highway  from  the  city  to  Lake  Ontario,  the  favorite  sum- 
mer drive  of  Rochester  people.  Public  hacks  may  be 
found  at  any  street  corner.  Walbridge's  stables,  on  Fitz- 
liugli  Street,  3  squares  from  the  Brackett,  Congress,  or 
Clinton,  afford  excellent  livery  teams.  The  different  cata- 
racts of  the  Genesee  evidently  formed  at  one  time  a  single 
cascade ;  but  the  differen  degrees  of  hardness  of  the  seve- 
ral rocks  have  caused  an  unequal  retrograde  movement 
of  the  falls,  until  they  have  assumed  their  present  posi- 
tion. At  the  Upper  Falls,  just  nortli  of  the  New- York 
Central  Railway  bridge,  the  water  descends  96  feet  over 
the  perpendicular  face  of  Niagara  limestone,  underlaid  by 
shale.  At  this  place  the  noted  Sam  Patch  made  his  last 
and  fatal  leap.  There  is  no  good  provision  made  for  a 
view  of  the  falls,  and  the  visitor  who  would  enjoy  their 
beauty  must  be  content  to  take  very  primitive  methods  of 
observation.  There  is  an  "  observatory  "  in  a  hier-garten, 
near  the  brink,  on  the  eastern  side,  (there  is  no  view  what- 


62 


SPRINGS   AND   FALLS. 


ever  to  be  obtained  from  the  west  bank,  owing  mainly  to 
the  many  mills  which  have  usurped  the  water-power 
there,)  but  as  it  is  on  a  level  with  the  fall,  it  affords  a 
very  indifferent  prospect.  One  must  clamber  down  the 
clayey  bank,  at  about  a  quarter-mile  below  the  fall,  and 
then  walk  up  the  narrow  ledge  at  the  bottom  of  this  cliff, 
again,  to  the  basin  beneath  the  fall.  Here  he  has  a  view 
which  repays  him  for  his  trouble.  In  his  face  is  the  great 
fall,  and  on  the  side,  along  the  west  bank  or  cliff,  are 
a  great  number  of  petty  falls — miniature  Taghkanics — 
caused  by  the  overflow  of  the  mills,  wliich  crowd  each 
other,  with  a  most  covetous  look,  on  the  dangerous 
brink. 

Below  the  Upper  Falls  the  river  flows  between  nearly 
perpendicular  walls,  about  If  miles  to  the  Middle  Falls, 
where  it  has  a  descent  of  35  feet.  One  hundred  rods  be- 
low, it  descends  84  feet  at  the  Lower  Falls,  over  a  ledge 
of  Medina  sand-stone,  to  the  level  of  Lake  Ontario.  This 
is  by  far  the  most  picturesque  point  in  the  river  below  the 
city.  One  will  best  enjoy  it  on  the  west  bank,  although, 
to  have  seen  and  appreciated  the  whole,  he  must  visit 
also  the  other.  To  do  this,  nothing  will  do  but  a  retracing 
of  his  steps  from  the  Lower  Fall  to  the  Upper,  where  he 
may  cross  the  only  available  bridge — that  of  the  railway — 
and  go  down  to  the  Lower  Fall  again  on  the  east  bank. 
The  horse-cars,  fortunately  for  economists,  reach  the  Low- 
er Fall  on  the  west  side.  The  banks  of  the  river,  through- 
out much  of  its  length,  indeed,  but  particularly  here,  re- 
minds one  most  strikingly  of  the  gorge  through  which 
flows  the  Niagara  River.  Several  sulphur  springs  flow 
out  of  the  rocks  below  the  Middle  Fall. 

Below  the  Lower  Fall  are  numerous  rapids,  which  con- 
tinue to  Carthage,  the  end  of  navigation  on  the  Genesee 


m 


4 


ily  to 
)ower 
rds  a 
11  tlie 
1,  and 
s  cliff, 
i  view 
I  great 
ff,  are 
Lilies — 
i  each 
gerous 

nearly 

3  Falls, 

ods  he- 

a  ledge 
Tliia 

low  the 
;hough, 
Lst  visit 
itracing 
here  he 
jlway— 
it  hank. 
|he  Low- 
^irough- 
|here,  re- 
[\  which 
[igs  flow 

lich  con- 
Genesee 


SPRINGS  AND   FALLS. 


63 


River  from  Lake  Ontario.  The  post-office  at  the  village 
of  Genesee  Falls  is  called  Portageville,  while  Portage  Sta- 
tion is  on  the  Buffalo  hranch  of  the  New- York  and  Erie 
Railway,  30  miles  from  "^'nrnellsville.  For  the  fine  scene- 
ry there,  see  Erie  Rail'  \y. 


NIAGARA. 

Until  commerce  and  curiosity  shall  so  populate  the 
Great  West  as  to  render  it  possible  to  determine  reliably 
the  wonders  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  region,  Niagara  Falls 
must  certainly  hold  the  place  of  the  first  wonder  of  the 
natural  world.  It  is  only  recently  that  its  preeminence 
has  been  disputed.  Travelers  from  the  Great  Snake  River, 
in  Oregon,  have  brougbt  back  word  to  wondering  (and 
distant)  audiences  of  a  cataract  upon  that  stream  which, 
possessing  all  the  volume  of  Niagara,  surpasses  its  height 
by  nearly  100  feet.  It  is  not  a  little  distressing  to  the 
tourist  to  know,  while  he  stands  by  the  hitherto  unrivaled 
precipice,  that  perhaps,  after  all,  he  is  only  gazing  upon  a 
second-class  fall ;  but  then  there  may  be  consolation  in  the 
other  reflection,  that,  unlike  Alexander,  he  shall  not  be 
obliged  to  sigh  for  more  worlds  to  conquer. 

We  may  observe  at  once  three  recessions — "backings 
out,"  the  London  Saturday  Itemew  would  probably  ele- 
gantly say — concerning  the  great  wonder  of  New- York. 
Its  precipice  has  been  gradually  receding,  of  its  own  sove- 
reign will,  (which  who  shall  hinder?  as  was  truly  ob- 
served once  in  Irish,)  from  Lake  Ontario  toward  Lake 
Erie,  from  time  immemorial ;  its  popularity,  of  late  years, 
has  been  likewise  declining  ;  and  now  the  glory  of  its  pre- 
eminence is  threatened.    For,  not  to  dwell  longer  on  the 


64 


SPRINGS  AND  FALLS. 


ii  ■ 


/     IIB 


familiar  geological  fact  and  the  now  oft-repeated  compari- 
son, it  can  not  be  denied  tliat  Niagara  Falls  is  no  longer 
the  favorite  resort  of  the  heau  monde.  Saratoga,  Newport, 
Long  Branch,  the  mountains,  the  Saint  Lawrence  retreats, 
are  the  places  where  one  must  chiefly  look  for  the  fash- 
ionables of  to-day.  At  the  Falls  one  will  be  more  likely 
to  find  newly-married  couples  who  have  long  been  looking 
forward  to  their  honeymoon  and  the  Niagara  visit  with 
almost  equal  anticipations  ;  commercial  travelers,  forcing 
Niagara  upon  their  programme  to  their  temporary  pecu- 
niary loss ;  excursion  parties  from  New- York  and  Penn- 
sylvania ;  and  a  good  many  people  just  like  himself.  But 
of  all  fashionable  or  quondam  fashionable  resorts,  Niagara 
especially  is  to  be  visited,  and  is  visited,  not  for  its  fashion 
and  folly,  but  for  itself — its  own  glorious,  magnificent  self : 
and  itself  we  will  now  wholly  regard. 

There  are  two  ways  to  see  Niagara,  which  we  will  call 
the  costly  way  and  the  careful  way ;  the  first  under  con- 
trol of  a  hackman,  and  the  second  on  foot,  as  reason,  study, 
and  a  free  moral  agency  may  direct.  We  prefer  the  latter. 
Most  guide-books  give  the  first  in  detail,  which  is  not  ne- 
cessary; the  only  essentials  being,  to  arrive  at  Niagara 
Falls,  put  up  at  the  biggest  and  costliest  hotel,  commit 
yourself  unreservedly  to  a  member  of  the  Niagara  Falls 
Order  of  Thugs,  (see  paragraph  on  The  Hackmen  mid- 
way in  this  article,)  and  go  in  the  order  he  may  choose, 
with  such  frequent  money-lettings  as  he  may  prescribe,  to 
the  following  places  :  Brock's  Monument,  at  Queenstown, 
(7  miles,)  Lewistown  and  its  Suspension  Bridge,  at  the 
same  point,  Lundy's  Lane,  the  Whirlpool,  the  Devil's  Run, 
the  Great  Suspension  Bridge,  the  Burning  Spring,  the  Mu- 
seum, near  Table  Rock,  the  place  where  Table  Rock  was. 
Fort  Schlosser,  (that  was,)  Navy  Island,  Grand  Island,  the 


'h  I 


i 


tgara 
limit 
^alls 
mid- 
)ose, 
)e,  to 
[own, 
tlie 
|Run, 
Mu- 
was, 
L  tlie 


.1 


U 


:,  I 


*''Piiijiii''iiiPniiw^p§lll@PIP 


FL 


SPRINGS  AND  FALLS. 


G5 


Rapids  above  the  Falls,  and  so  on.  Some  views  of  Niagara 
Falls  are  often  included  during  this  experience. 

A  pleasure-traveler  at  this  great  point  on  his  journey 
should  make  up  his  mind  at  the  outset  to  two  things  :  that 
ho  can  not  make  the  tour  of  Niagara  Falls  as  he  can  visit 
most  places,  in  a  railway  car  or  a  carriage,  in  a  delay  of  a 
few  hours  ;  and  that,  whatever  he  do,  a  first,  comparative- 
ly brief  visit  will  never  enable  him  to  "  appreciate  "  the 
great  cataract  as  he  will  afterward.  If  he  shall  make  a 
foot-tour  of  the  region,  he  will  give  himself  a  peculiar 
aptitude  to  take  in  the  spirit  of  the  scene,  will  be  able  and 
anxious  to  delay  longer  at  the  really  important  points, 
and  will  be  very  unlikely  to  waste  his  time  in  seeing  curi- 
osities hi  which  nothing  but  a  morbid  regret  at  the  Bar- 
num's  Museum  fires  could  interest  him.  The  route  usually 
taken  by  visitors  to  the  Falls  ought  to  be  divided  into 
two  parts — one,  consisting  of  the  cataracts  and  their  walls, 
and  nothing  else  ;  the  other,  belonging  to  a  beautiful  rail- 
way ride  (which  ms  oy  lose)  down  to  Ontario,  and  includ- 
ing Lundy's  Lane  or  Chippewa,  Lewiston,  the  two  Sus- 
pension Bridges,  etc.  If  one  is  not  to  visit  the  River  Saint 
Lawrence,  indeed,  perhaps  a  carriage-ride  to  the  Rapids 
above  the  Falls  may  be  advisable ;  but  the  view  on  the 
bridge  connecting  Goat  Island  to  the  mainland  will  com- 
monly be  more  stitisfactory. 

With  the  convictions,  then,  that  the  great  cataract  de- 
mands time  and  trouble,  and  is  to  be  treated  as  a  friend 
who  improves  on  acquaintance,  let  the  tourist  set  out  on 
his  foot-journey.  Five  minutes'  w^alk  from  the  New- York 
Central  Railway  depot  at  "  Niagara  Falls" — not  Suspension 
Bridge  depot — will  bring  him,  passing  between  the  Cata- 
ract and  International  Hotels,  to  the  street  or  road  which 
leads  across  the  iron  bridge  above  the  American  Falls 


66 


SPEINGS  AND  PALLS. 


II 


Hii 


(passage  both  ways,  25  cents)  to  Goat  or  Iris  Island,  pass- 
ing Bath  Island.    Upon  this  bridge  one  should  stop  for 
the  view  both  above  and  below.     The  latter  is  the  less  im- 
portant, but  affords  a  fine  preparation  for  the  mighty  scene 
at  the  tower  ;  the  waters,  hurrying  over  rocks  and  stones 
from  the  Kapids  above,  give  one  a  keen  sense  of  the  ever- 
lasting activity  which  so  stirs  the  soul  to  sympathy.    But 
above,  as  far  as  the  limit  of  the  waters  reaches,  the  toss- 
ing, furious  rapids  present  a  scene  which  some  pronounce 
the  grandest  at  Niagara.     The  visitor  will  delay  here 
profitably  some  time.     The  walk  directly  across  through 
the  shady  grove  on  Goat  Island,  over  a  road  moistened 
with  the  spray  from  the  great  cataract,  whose  distant  roar 
moves  one  indescribably,  is  full  of  cl     ms.    At  the  end  of 
this  walk  is  the  Terrapin  To/ver,  from  the  summit  of 
which  may  be  had  the  finest  view,  not  of  the  whole  fall, 
but  of  the  "  agony  of  the  waters  "  in  the  centre  of  the 
Horseshoe.    The  depth  at  that  point  has  been  estimated — 
enormously,  one  must  say — at  30  feet.    The  views  across 
the  great  sweep  to  the  Canada  shore,  up  the  torrent  until 
it  meets  the  horizon,  and  down  through  the  magnificent 
gorge  below  the  fall  to  Suspension  Bridge,  are  among  tlie 
great  experiences  of  a  visitor  here.     One  will  wish  also  to 
walk  to  the  u^iper  end  of  the  island,  and  see  the  Three 
Sisters  (islands)  and  the  view  up  the  river  from  the  low 
standpoint  of  the  shore.    The  roads  and  paths  through  the 
woods  on  Goat  Island  are  highly  attractive.    (We  are  in- 
debted to  Mr.  G.  M.  Colburn,  of  the  International,  for  the 
following  information,  now  first  published:   The  Three 
Sister  Islands,  opposite  the  Hermit's  Cascade,  are  now 
open  to  visitors.      During  the  past  winter  three   truss- 
bridges  have  been  thrown  across,  connecting  them  with 
Goat  Island.     Very  few  persons  have  ever  been  on  them 


SPRINGS    ANT>   FALLS. 


•1 


,  pass- 
;op  for 
iss  im- 
'  scene 
stones 
)  ever- 
.    But 
0  toss- 
Liounce 
y  hero 
irougli 
istened 
nt  roar 
end  of 
mit  of 
3le  fall, 

of  the 
latod — 

across 
it  until 
iiificent 
mg  t'.j.e 

also  to 
Three 

le  low 
LTgh  the 

are  in- 

for  the 
Three 

re  now 
truss- 

m  with 

n  them 


until  the  past  winter,  and  it  has  opened  some  wild  natural 
objects  of  interest  for  all.  About  $0000  have  l)0(>n  ex- 
ponded  by  Mr.  D.  J.  Townsend,  for  the  Porter  estate,  in 
building  the  bridges,  walks,  drives,  etc.) 

Keturning  from  Terrapin  Tower,  one  will  l)est  complete 
his  studies  of  the  Horseshoe  Fall.  The  Canadian  shore 
then  will  be  reached  by  the  little  row-boat  which  plies 
from  the  foot  of  an  inclined  plane  at  no  considerable  dis- 
tance from  the  "  Museum"  at  the  iron  bridge.  Ferriage 
and  railway  charge,  25  c»mts ;  there  is  a  staircase  at  the 
side  of  the  railway,  the  tedious  walk  up  or  down  which 
reduc<^s  the  charire  by  half  a  d'me.  The  row  across  the 
river  is  perfectly  safe,  a  fact  wliich  wo  should  liar  lly  feel 
obliged  to  state  had  we  not  known  even  strong  men  who 
hesitated  at  the  brink  of  the  tossing  flood.  There  is  a  pe- 
culiar and  fine  front-view  of  the  Horseshoe  Fall  on  this 
diabasis. 

Landed  in  Canada,  the  visitor  finds  the  road  leading  to 
the  plateau  above  on  a  steep  incline ;  but  the  fatigue  of 
the  climb  is  forgotten  whenever  he  turns  to  look  at  the 
great  cataract,  or  the  American  and  Central  Falls,  nearly 
opposite  him.  At  the  summit  he  finds  himself  on  a  i  )ore 
beautiful  plateau  than  he  has  yet  enjoyed  on  the  American 
side,  stretching  away  as  far  as  the  I^ake  Ontario  shore  on 
the  south,  and  meeting  the  river  just  above  its  precipice. 
The  Clifton  House,  near  at  hand,  will  be  worthy  a  visit,  as 
it  is  a  fine  specimen  of  a  well-kept,  rather  old-fashioned, 
elegant  English  public-housi  .  (See  paragraph  on  Hotels 
below.) 

The  Hackmen. — Along  the  plateau,  up  to  the  site  of 
Table  Rock,  (which  has  fallen  piecemeal,  until  now  only 
its  root  remains,)  the  visitor  would  enjoy  a  delightful 
walk,  surrounded  with  beauty,  grandeur,  and  sublimity, 


V 


11 


■villi 


»nn 


68 


SPRINGS   AND   FALLS. 


but  for  one  thinf?— the  ciirso  of  Niagara,  the  Miorht  of  the 
huulHcape,  tlie  ^ad-flios  that  hovor  even  over  the  brink  of 
th(!  cataract — tlio  hackmon.  You  -will  oncoiinttT  them 
eviTywhero,  poor  victim  !  but  this  table-land  seems  to  us 
their  peculiar  al)ode,  hive,  headquarters.  Some  one  who 
has  never  visited  Niagara  has  divided  the  human  race  into 
"  men,  women,  and  the  Beecher  family ;"  had  he  come 
here,  ho  would  have  said,  "  pale-faces,  Indians,  and  Nia- 
gara hackmen."  These  pests  accost  you  at  every  turn  in 
the  road,  and  at  every  point  where  it  does  not  turn  ;  on 
Table  Rock  and  under  it  ;*  in  the  seclusion  of  Goat  Island, 
starting  forth  from  behind  trees,  and,  one  would  almost 
think,  springing  from  the  earth ;  haunting  the  Cave  of 
the  Winds,  and  hanging  on  the  verge  of  the  precipice  at 
Terrapin  Tower — burrs,  barnacles,  bores.    That  they  are 


*  Outrages  at  Niaoaha  Falls.— A  journal  in  Westorn  Ne-w- 
York  says:  "Those  who  have  visited  Niagara  Falls /at  any  time 
within  the  past  ten  years,  and  ventured  upon  the  Canadian  side,  to 
view  the  stupendous  cataract  from  the  famous  Table  Rock,  have,  as 
a  rule,  experienced  the  annoyances  of  a  lawless  gang  of  fellows  who 
seem  subject  to  no  code  of  either  International  or  British  law,  but 
who  adopt  the  most  direct  means  of  relieving  the  pockets  of  their 
victims  of  as  much  money  as  possible,  making  exorbitant  charges  for 
imaginary  services,  and  frequently  resorting  to  force  in  extorting 
their  demands,  A  Canadian  paper,  the  Evening  Times^  of  Hamilton, 
Ontario,  has  recently  been  warning  the  public  against  the  dangers  of 
the  locality,  and  showing  up  one  Saul  Davis,  the  alleged  leader  in  the 
outrages  described,  and  proprietor  of  an  establishment  '^v^hich  most 
visitors  have  cause  to  remember,  known  as  the  '  Table-Rock  House.' 
A  libel  suit  is  the  consequence,  and  the  defendant  therefore  appeals 
for  evidence  to  sustain  his  statements  to  Americans,  who  have  prin- 
cipally been  the  victims  of  the  plaintiflf's  persecutions.  Those  who 
have  suffered  at  the  hands  of  attaches  of  the  so-called  Table-Rock 
House,  and  who  would  be  willing  to  narrate  their  wrongs  in  court 
and  serve  a  cause  of  humanity,  are  desired  to  communicate  with  the 
office  of  the  journal  mentioned." 


SPRINGS  AND  FALLS. 


C9 


a  scpamto  ppocu'S  of  boast  appears  from  tlio  fact  that  orili- 
nary  means  will  not  rid  ono  of  tliem  ;  they  stick  to  you 
with  more  pertinacity  than  did  the  lirst  postal  currency, 
and  a  repulse  that  would  annihilate  a  New- York  newsboy 
BeenicJ  only  to  indicate  to  them  your  desire  for  their  further 
acquaintance.  In  short,  the  hackmen  of  Niagara  are  in- 
tolerable. If  there  can  be  any  use  to  which  the  ideal  "  poor 
Indian"  of  Niagara,  who  is  privileged  to 


(I 


-see  God  in  clouds  and  hear  him  in  the  wind," 


rting 


s  of 

the 

lost 

ise.' 

)eals 

)rin- 

.'•ho 

lock 

lourt 

the 


icitliout  the  hindrance  of  these  hackmen,  can  bo  put  by 
Government,  we  think  it  would  bo  to  educate  them  up  to 
such  a  civilized  condition  as  to  render  them  liable  to  hack- 
men,  and  then  give  them  liberty  to  use  the  aboriginal 
tomahawk  against  the  common  foe. 

The  best  evasion  of  the  hack-difficulty  possible  is  for 
visitors  to  engage  carriages  at  the  offices  of  the  hotels. 
A  hotel  official  facetiously  writes  us  that  "  the  hack  sys- 
te::i  is  not  perfect ;"  but  "  the  legal  rates  are  |2.0G  per 
hour  iov  a  carnage,  not  fa  taci,  person,  as  many  are  led 
to  believe."  Let  our  T..idei.; .  tj  orefore,  disregard  the  lies 
which  the  hackm'^n  or  tlie  sf  r^^  t  will  be  sure  to  tell  them, 
and  abide  by  the  hg^)  p"'.v.7l,  ions.  Let  us  also  remind  the 
reader  that  these  hackmen  receive  a  x')ercentage  (25  cents 
on  the  dollar)  for  all  the  custom,  whether  of  "  going  be- 
hind the  sheet,"  purchasing  or  observing  curiosities  at 
Saul  Davis's  "  Table  Rock  Museum."  This  caution  will 
disclose  the  text  from  which  their  eloquent  orations  are 
drawn. 

To  resume  :  the  visitor  who  can  succeed  in  keeping  ofi' 
these  wretches,  and  the  others  of  whom  mention  has  been 
made  in  a  foot-note,  will  enjoy,  upon  this  Canada  side,  the 
grandest  of  the  views  of  the  great  fall.    We  leave  to  our 


TO 


SmiNGS   AND   FALLS. 


fill 


reader's  discretion  the  journey  below  Table  Rock,  where 
is  the  personal  danger  alluded  to  above,  and  the  venture 
behind  the  main  sheet  a  very  short  distance  when  the 
wind  is  right ;  the  view  there  is  fine,  of  course,  but  hardly 
essential.    A  little  beyond  Table  Rock  one  may  gain  the 
view  which  inspired  Gignoux's  famous  masterpiece.     A 
short  or  long  walk  further  up  the  river,  according  to  one's 
time  or  opportunity,  will  always  repay  the  trouble  it  costs. 
Returning  to  the  American  side  and  the  toll-gate  to 
Goat  Island,  the  visitor  will  cross  from  the  mainland  and 
take  the  right-hand  path  for  the  Cave  of  the  Winds.   This 
is  under  the  Central  Fall,  (see  statistics  below,)  which  is 
between  the  Horseshoe  and  the  American.    The  cave  is 
100  feet  high  and  the  same  in  width,  and  is  reached  by 
Biddle's  Stairs,  descending  spirally.    You  can  pass  safely 
into  the  recess  behind  the  water  to  a  platform  beyond. 
INIagical  rainbow-pictures  are  formed  at  this  spot ;  some- 
times bows  of  entire  circles,  and  two  or  three  at  once,  are 
seen.    At  the  foot  of  Goat  Island  the  Three  Profiles  form 
an  object  of  curious  interest.    These  x^rofiles,  seemingly 
some  two  feet  long,  are  to  be  seen,  one  directly  above  the 
other,  as  you  look  across  the  first  sheet  of  water,  directly 
under  the  lowest  point  of  rock.     Luna  Island  is  reached 
by  a  foot-bridge,  from,  the  right  of  Goat  Island.     It  has  an 
area  of  some  three  quarters  of  an  acre.     The  efiective  rain- 
bow forms  seen  at  this  point  have  given  it  the  name  it 
bears. 

It  was  upon  the  west  side  of  Goat  Island,  near  Riddle's 
Stairs,  that  the  renowned  jumper,  Sam  Patch,  made  two 
successful  leaps  into  the  waters  below,  saying,  as  he  went 
off,  to  the  throng  of  spectators,  that  "  one  thing  might  be 
done  as  well  as  another  !" 

We  have  now  completed  the  tour  of  Niagara  Falls  pro- 


SPRINGS  AND   FALLS. 


Tl 


per  ;  there  remain  the  places  wliicli  we  have  said  belong 
rather  to  the  Lewiston  journey.  These  are  given  below, 
•under  the  separate  title  of  Niagara  River.  The  reader 
will  find  some  few  facts  concerning  the  river  in  the  beo-in- 
ning  of  the  sketch  of  Lake  Ontario.  He  will  wifjh  now 
to  have  the  statistical  information  regarding  the  Falls,  the 
way  to  get  to  them  from  New- York,  the  hotels,  etc. 

Niagara  Falls  were  seen  by  Father  Hennepin,  a  Jesuit 
missionary,  in  1678,  before  any  other  wliite  person  ever 
looked  upon  them.  A  sketch  which  he  made  is  copied  in 
Hall's  State  Geological  Beport,  and  proves  some  interesting 
facts  about  the  Falls.  There  was  then  a  third  fall,  (or 
fourth,  counting  the  Central  as  one,)  from  the  Canadian 
side  toward  the  east,  across  the  line  of  the  main  fall,  and 
caused  by  a  great  rock  wliicli  turned  the  divided  current 
in  this  direction.  This  rock  fell  a  few  years  prior  to  1750. 
Lyell,  the  famous  geologist,  thinks  the  falls  have  receded 
and  do  recede  about  a  foot  every  year,  varying,  however, 
with  the  formation  of  the  rock  which  they  encounter. 
The  present  encountered  "  Niagara  limestone"  is  very  dif- 
ficult to  cat.  The  height  of  the  Horseshoe  Fall  is  164  feet 
on  the  American  and  150  on  the  Canadian  side ;  width, 
475  feet.  Goat  Island,  however,  occupies  about  one  fourth 
of  the  space  with  its  70  acres.  The  American  and  Central 
Falls  descend  154  feet,  the  former  being  660  and  the  latter 
243  feet  wide.  The  amount  of  water  discharged  is  com- 
puted to  be  100,000,000  of  tons  per  hour.  More  water 
passes  in  these  fearful  torrents  in  seven  seconds  than  is 
conveyed  through  Croton  aqueduct  in  twenty-four  hours. 
At  the  Horseshoe  Fall  the  concussion  of  the  falling  waters 
with  those  in  the  depths  below  occasions  a  spray  that  vails 
the  cataract  two  thirds  up  its  height.  Above  this  impene- 
trable foam,  to  the  height  of  50  feet  above  the  fall,  a  cloud 


ii 


K' 


t 
I 


I-  t 


'Hi 


11  V 
I!. 


■i 


72 


SPRINGS  AND  FALLS. 


of  ligliter  spray  rises,  wliicli,  when  tlie  sun  shines  upon  it 
in  the  proper  direction,  displays  niagnificent  solar  rain- 
bows. The  sound  of  the  fall  varies  greatly,  much  of  the 
time  being  audible  only  a  little  way  off,  and  again  rolling 
over  Lalvc  Ontario,  even  to  Toronto,  46  miles  distant.  The 
name  Niagara  signifies  "  Thunder  of  Waters."  The  Cat 
Ijidians,  who  dwelt  near  it,  used  to  endeavor  to  propitiate 
the  si^irit  of  its  waters  by  annually  sacrificing  a  human 
victim  at  its  shrine.  The  most  beautiful  Indian  maiden 
was  selected  for  this  honor.  In  the  presence  of  a  great  as- 
semblage, she  was  placed  in  a  white  canoe,  with  the  finest 
fruits  and  flowers,  and  the  fragile  bark,  pushed  out  into 
the  stream,  carried  her  over  this  awful  portal  to  eternity. 

Routes. — To  reach  Niagara  from  New -York  City,  one 
may  take  either  Hudson  River  boats,  or  Harlem  Railway, 
or  Hudson  River  Railway  to  Athens,  Albany,  or  Troy ; 
thence  by  New- York  Central  Railway  to  Suspension  Bridge 
or  Niagara  Falls,  according  to  the  hotel  at  which  one  shall 
stop.  Or,  the  Erie  Railway  will  bring  passengers  from 
New- York  to  Buffalo,  and  thence  by  Central  Railway,  21 
miles,  to  Niagara  Falls,  or,  22  miles,  to  the  Bridge.  Pas- 
sengers from  Boston  take  the  New- York  Central  at  Alba- 
ny ;  those  from  the  West  may  come  by  Buffalo  or  (better) 
the  Great  Western  Railway  of  Canada,  which  crosses  the 
Bridge  and  lands  one  at  the  Suspension  Bridge  depot. 
The  fare  from  New- York  to  Niagara  (either  station)  is 
regularly  $9.35  ;  but  this  is  sometimes  reduced  even  as 
low  as  $5,  on  account  of  the  great  competition.  One  may 
also  reach  the  Falls  from  Lake  Ontario  or  Toronto  by 
steamboat  to  Lewist<;n  and  New- York  Central  cars  to  the 
Bridge  or  Falls. 

HoTELS.~The  International  is  the  largest,  and  is  a  little 
square  from  the  depot  at  Niagara  Falls 


more  than  one 


m  as 
may 
\o  by 
the 


o 

o 

o 
o 

CO 


P 
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little 
Falls 


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SPRINGS   AND   FALLS. 


^3 


Station.  It  is  cliicfly  the  favorite  amon<^  transient  tourists 
wlio  are  only  to  stay  a  day  or  so,  as  '>>ne  is  most  sure  of 
always  getting  a  room  at  tliis  immense  house.  Prices, 
$4.50  per  day.  Telegraph  and  mail  facilities  here  as  at 
all  the  l^ouses  nore  or  less.  Omnibus  meets  all  trains. 
Season  begins  May  9th,  lasting  six  months.  Proprietor, 
Mr.  James  T.  Fulton. 

The  Cataract  House,  (omnibus  at  depot,)  closely  adjoin, 
ing  the  International,  is  gay  and  fashionable,  more  apt  to 
be  crowded  with  i^ermanent  guests,  and  not  materially 
different  in  rooms  or  table  from  its  neighbor.  Its  rear 
balconies  command  exquisite  views  of  the  Rapids  and  Goat 
Island.  Terms  and  season  the  same  as  the  International. 
Proprietors,  Messrs.  Whitney,  Jerauld  &  Co. 

The  Clifton  House  is  on  the  Canada  side,  kept  by  Messrs. 
Bromley,  Shears  &  Co.,  (postal  address,  Niagara  Falls,  N.Y.) 
Rooms  for  250  to  300  guests  ;  terms,  $4  i^er  day  in  Ame- 
rican currency ;  telegraph  in  office  ;  railway  station  2  miles 
distant,  either  on  Canada  or  New- York  side,  at  the  Bridge. 
It  is  the  favorite  resort  of  foreigners  and  Southerners,  and 
commands  the  finest  views  of  the  Falls  that  can  be  had 
from  any  house.  Its  omnibus  meets  all  trains,  preventing 
any  necessity  for  enduring  hack-extortions.  Open  from 
May  15th  to  November  1st. 

The  Monteagle  House  is  the  principal  hotel  at  the  Sus- 
pension Bridge  depot,  2  miles  from  the  depot  at  Niagara 
Falls.  Proprietor,  Mr.  H.  L.  De  Camp.  Terms,  $3.50  per 
day ;  $14  to  $18  per  week.  Rooms  for  200  guests,  from 
May  1st  to  November  1st.  Telegraph  in  railway  depot. 
This  is  a  very  agreeable,  quiet  house,  where  one  who  pre- 
fers to  be  at  I  little  distance  from  the  Falls,  and  to  spend 
some  time,  ^vill  find  it  pleasant  to  stop.  The  hotel  omni- 
bus conveys  passengers  to  and  from  the  depot,  a  distance 


;  • 


I  ; 


i 


! 


I 


u 


SPRINGS  AND  FALLS. 


of  less  tlian  a  quarter  of  a  milo.  Mr.  Tfe  Camp  also  is.eeps 
the  New-York  Central  House,  a  very  pleasant  little  inn, 
standing  a  few  feet  from  tlie  depot  at  tlie  Bridge,  with 
accommodations  for  100  guests,  and  a  plain  but  good 
table.  For  travelers  consulting  economy,  or  convenience 
to  the  cars  at  the  Bridge,  we  would  especially  recommend 
it.    Terms,  $3  per  day. 


'f  : 


NIAGARA  RIVER  TO  LEWISTON. 

The  great  wonder  of  the  world  which  the  tourist  comes 
to  see  on  the  precipice  of  the  Niagara  River,  is  supple- 
mented and  sometimes  belittled  by  the  cupidity  of  men. 
But  there  is  a  great  deal  of  interesting  scenery,  and  a 
number  of  important  historical  localities,,  upon  the  whole 
length  of  the  river  between  the  two  great  lakes  which  the 
Niagara  joins.  If  the  reader  please,  we  will  separate  these 
from  the  tour  i)roper  of  the  Falls,  and  collect  them  here. 

The  most  usual  mode  of  conveyance  from  Buifalo  to  the 
Falls  of  Niagara,  and  thence  to  Lake  Ontario,  or  into 
Canada,  is  by  the  Buffalo,  Niagara  Falls,  and  Lewiston 
Branch  of  the  New- York  Central  Railway,  28  miles  in 
length.  It  runs  through  Tonawanda,  11  miles  ;  Niagara 
Falls,  22  miles ;  Suspension  Bridge,  24  miles,  connecting 
with  the  Great  Western  Railway  of  Canada,  and  termi- 
nates at  Lewiston,  the  head  of  navigation  on  Niagara 
River,  28  miles. 

Another  route  is  by  the  steamboats  of  the  Ontario 
Steamboat,  (American  Express  Line  Company,)  from  Buf- 
falo to  Toronto,  ma  Welland  River  and  Canal.  A  third 
route  is  from  Buffalo  by  a  railway  on  the  Canada  side,  but 
under  the  Erie  direction,  called  the  Erie  and  Ontario,  start- 
ing from  the  Lake  Huron  (Grand  Trunk)  depot.  By  this 
route  one  passes  in  full  view  of  the  Falls,  to  the  Clifton 


SmiNGS  AND  FALLS. 


75 


ieeps 
inn, 
with 
good 
lience 
mend 


comes 
apple- 
men, 
and  a 
whole 
ch  tlie 
3  tliese 
I  here, 
to  the 
)r  into 
wiston 
lies  in 
iagara 
ecting 
termi- 
iagara 

>ntario 
n  Buf- 
third 
ie,  hut 
),  start- 
By  this 
Clifton 


House,  3  miles  helow  Chippewa;  Suspension  Bridge,  5 
miles ;  Queonstown  11  miles,  terminating  at  Niagara,  Pro- 
vince of  Ontario,  35  miles  from  Buffalo. 

As  the  stcamhoat  leaves  Buffalo,  a  fine  view  may  he  ob- 
tained of  Lake  Erie  and  both  shores  of  Niagara  River. 
On  the  Canada  side,  the  first  objects  of  interest  are  the 
ruins  of  old  Fort  Erie,  captured  by  the  Americans,  July  3d, 
1814.  It  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  lake,  opposite  the 
site  of  a  strong  fortress  which  the  United  States  have 
erected  for  the  protection  of  the  river  and  the  city  of 
Buffalo. 

The  Niagara  River  commences  at  Bird  Island,  nearly 
opposite  the  mouth  of  Buffalo  harbor,  and  passes  by  the 
site  of  old  Fo]'t  Erie  and  Waterloo  (3  miles  distant)  on  the 
Canada  side.  At  the  latter  place  a  steam  fei'ryboat  plies 
across  the  river  to  Black  Rock,  now  forming  a  j)art  of  the 
city  of  Buffalo.  It  is  here  proposed  to  construct  a  railway 
bridge  across  the  stream,  about  1800  feet  in  width.  The 
Buffalo  and  Lake  Huron  Branch  of  the  Grand  Trunk  (Ca- 
nadian) Railway  starts  from  this  point,  and  extends  to 
Goderich,  on  Lake  Huron,  crossing  the  Great  Western 
Railway  at  Paris. 

Grand  Island,  attached  to  Erie  county,  N.  Y,,  is  passed 
on  the  right  as  we  descend  the  river.  This  was  the  spot 
on  which  Major  M.  M.  Noah,  formerly  a  prominent  mem- 
ber of  the  New- York  press,  hoped  to  assemble  all  the 
Hebrew  populations  of  the  world.  Near  the  ferry  there 
was  once  an  observatory,  or  i)agoda,  100  feet  high,  f;oni 
which  a  grand  view  of  the  region  was  gained.  This  spot 
is  called  Point  View.  The  island  is  10  miles  long,  from 
north  to  south,  and  7  wide;  has  11,000  acres;  is  partly 
cleared  and  cultivated,  while  the  larger  portion  is  covered 
with  a  large  gro-v^iih  of  oaks  and  other  forest-trees. 


!  I 


.1^ 


mmsssi 


76 


SrrjNGS   AND   FALLS. 


I ; 


•  Squaw  Island  and  Strawberry  Island  are  both  small 
islands  lying  on  the  American  side  of  the  stream,  near  the 
head  of  Grand  Island.  The  river  is  here  used  in  part  for 
the  Erie  Canal,  a  pier  extending  from  S(iuaw  Island  to 
Bird  Island,  forming"  a  large  basin,  called  Black  Rock 
Harbor. 

Cayuga  Island  and  Buckhorn  Island  are  small  bodies  of 
land  belonging  to  the  United  States,  situated  immediately 
below  Grand  Island. 

Navy  Island,  lying  opposite  the  village  of  Chippewa, 
18  miles  below  the  head  of  the  river,  is  a  celebrated  island 
belonging  to  the  Canadians,  having  been  taken  ]iossession 
of  by  the  sympathizing  patriots  in  1837,  when  a  partial  re- 
bellion occurred  in  Upper  and  Lower  Canada. 

There  are,  in  all,  upward  of  30  islands  lying  in  the 
Niagara  River  above  the  falls.  Those  just  named  are  the 
chief,  and  almost  the  only  ones  worth  naming. 

Tonawanda,  11  miles  below  Buffalo,  is  situated  at  the 
mouth  of  Tonawanda  Creek,  opposite  Grand  Island.  The 
Erie  Canal  here  enters  the  creek,  which  it  follows  for 
several  miles  on  its  course  toward  Lockport.  A  railway 
also  runs  to  Lockport,  connecting  with  the  New- York  Cen- 
tral Railway,  extending  to  Albany.  A  ship-canal  is  pro- 
posed to  be  constructed  from  Tonawanda  to  some  eligible 
point  on  Lake  Ontario,  thus  forming  a  rival  to  the  Welland 
Canal  of  Canada. 

Chippewa,  20  miles  below  Buffalo,  and  2  miles  above 
the  Falls,  is  on  the  west  side  of  Niagara  River,  at  the 
mouth  of  a  creek  of  the  same  name,  which  is  navigable  to 
Port  Robinson,  some  8  or  10  miles  west,  the  latter  place 
being  on  the  line  of  the  Welland  Canal.  The  village  of 
Chippewa  contains  a  population  of  about  1000  souls. 
Steamboats  and  lake  craf^  of  a  large  size  are  built  at  this 


SPKINGS  AND  FALLS. 


1 


place  for  tlio  trade  of  Lake  Erie  and  the  Upper  Lakes.  It 
has  obtained  a  plac  >  in  history  on  account  of  the  bloody 
battle  which  was  fouf]rht  near  it  in  the  war  of  1813, 
between  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain.  The  battle 
was  fought  on  the  5th  of  July,  1814,  on  the  plains  a  short 
distance  south  of  the  steamboat  landino-.  The  American 
forces  were  commanded  by  Brigadier-General  Winfield 
Scott,  in  the  absence  of  Major-General  Jacob  Brown,  aid 
the  British  by  Major-General  Riall.  The  latter,  after  an 
obstinate  and  sanguinary  fight,  was  defeated  with  con- 
siderable loss. 

Drummonds\ille,  one  mile  west  of  the  Falls,  and  situat- 
ed on  Lundy's  Lane,  is  celebrated  as  the  scene  of  another 
sanguinary  engagement  between  the  American  and  British 
forces,  July  25tli,  1814. 

Schlosser's  Landing,  2  miles  above  Niagara  Falls  vil- 
lage, is  a  noted  steamboat  landing,  opposite  Chippewa, 
from  whence  the  steamer  Caroline  was  cut  adrift  by  the 
British  and  destroyed,  by  being  precipitated  over  the  Falls 
during  the  Canadian  rebellion,  December  29th,  1837. 

The  ship  or  steamboat  channel  runs  along  the  bank  of 
Giand  Island  to  nearly  opposite  Chippewa,  .vhere  the 
whole  stream  unites  before  plunging  over  the  Falls  of 
Niagara,  being  again  separated  at  the  head  of  Goat  Island. 
From  this  point  the  awe-struck  traveler  can  scan  the  quiet 
waters  above,  and  the  raging  rapids  below,  preparing  to 
plunge  over  the  cataract.  Below  Navy  Island,  between 
Chippewa  and  Schlosser,  the  river  is  nearly  3  miles  in 
wddth,  but  soon  narrows  to  1  mile,  when  the  rapids 
commence  and  continue  for  about  1  mile  before  reaching 
the  edge  of  the  precipice  at  the  Horse-Shoe  Fall.  At  the 
commencement  of  the  rapids,  "  the  bed  of  the  river  de- 
clines, the  channel  contracts,  numerous  large  rocks  heave 


78 


SPRINGS  AND   FALLS. 


up  tlio  rolling  surges  and  dispute  tlio  passage  of  the  now 
raging  and  foaming  floods.  The  mighty  torrent,  leaping 
down  successive  ledges,  dashing  over  opposing  elevations, 
hurled  back  by  ridges,  and  repelled  from  shores  and  is- 
lands— plunging,  boiling,  roaring — seems  a  mad  wilder- 
ness of  waters  striving  against  its  better  fate,  and  hurried 
on  to  destruction  by  its  own  blind  and  reckless  impetuosity. 
Were  there  no  catarnct,  these  rapids  would  yet  make  Nia- 
gara the  wonder  of  the  world." 

Iris  or  Goat  Island  commences  near  the  head  of  the  ra- 
pids, and  extends  to  the  precipice,  of  which  it  forms  a  part, 
separating  the  American  Fall  from  the  Canadian  or  Horse- 
Shoe  Fall.  It  is  about  half  a  mile  in  length,  80  rods  wide, 
and  contains  over  GO  acres  of  arable  land,  being  for  the 
most  part  covered  with  a  heavy  growth  of  forest-trees  of  a 
variety  of  species,  and  native  plants  and  flowers.  A  portion 
of  the  island,  however,  has  been  cleared  off,  and  a  garden 
inclosed,  in  which  are  some  excellent  fruit-trees,  and  a 
variety  of  native  and  foreign  plants  and  flowers,  and  a 
fish-pond.  The  island  is  remarkably  cool,  shady,  and  plea- 
sant, and  is  an  object  of  unceasing  admiration  from  year 
to  year.  Comfortable  seats  and  arbors  are  placed  at  the 
most  interesting  points,  where  the  visitor  can  sit  at  ease 
and  enjoy  the  beautiful  and  sublime  views  presented  to 
his  sight,  often  entranced  by  a  deafening  roar  of  mighty 
waters  in  their  descent,  accompanied  by  changing  rain- 
bows of  the  most  gorgeous  description. 

Among  the  places  pointed  out  as  interesting  to  visitors, 
near  the  Falls,  is  Bender's  Cave,  midway  between  the  Sus- 
pension Bridge  and  the  Clifton  House.  It  is  a  recess,  6 
feet  high  and  20  in  length,  made  by  a  decomposition  of  the 
limestone.  Termination  Rock  occupies  a  recess  behind 
the  centre  of  the  Horse- Shoe  Fall,  reached  by  the  descent 


SPRINGS   AND   FALLS. 


10 


tors, 

ISus- 

6 

tlie 

lind 

Icent 


of  a  spiral  stairway  from  Table  Rock,  tbo  traverse  for  a 
short  distance  of  the  rude  mar<[^o  of  the  river,  and  then 
of  a  narrow  path  over  a  frightful  ledgo  and  through  the 
blinding  spray,  behind  the  mighty  fall.  Before  descend- 
ing, visitors  should  make  a  complete  change  of  toilet  for  a 
rough  costume  more  suitable  for  the  stormy  and  rather 
damp  journey  before  them.  The  Museum,  (see  p.  189) 
near  Table  Hock,  contains  specimens  of  minerals,  birds, 
fishes,  and  animals,  many  of  which  were  collected  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  Falls.  Admittance,  which  includes 
the  use  of  the  dress,  and  admission  behind  the  sheet,  50 
cents.  The  Burning  Spring  is  near  the  water,  2  miles 
above  the  Falls.  The  carbonated  sulphuretted  hydrogen 
gas  here  gives  out  a  brilliant  flame  when  lighted.  (Before 
visiting  this  place,  the  tourist  will  do  well  to  read  the  note 
on  page  189,  under  the  sketch  of  Niagara  Falls.) 

Below  the  Falls,  the  first  objects  of  interest  are  the 
Ferry  Stairs  and  Point  View  on  the  American  side.  About 
30  rods  below  the  Ferry  Stairs  is  the  spot  where  the  her- 
mit Abbot  was  drowned.  Half  a  mile  below  the  latter 
point  is  Catlin's  Cave,  formerly  much  frequented. 

The  Suspension  Bridge,  the  greatest  artificial  curiosity 
in  America,  is  situated  two  miles  and  a  half  below  the 
Falls.  Its  total  length,  from  centre  to  centre  of  the  towers, 
is  800  feet ;  its  height  above  the  water,  258  feet.  The  first 
bridge,  which  was  built  by  Mr.  Charles  Ellet,  was  a  very 
light  and  fairy-like  affair,  in  comparison  with  the  pre&ient 
substantial  structure.  The  bridge,  as  it  now  stands,  was 
constructed  under  the  direction  of  Mr.  John  A.  Roebling, 
at  a  cost  of  $500,000.  Here  has  recently  sprung  into  exis- 
tence the  village  of  Suspension  Bridge,  on  the  American 
side,  and  Clifton,  on  the  Canadian  side  of  the  river,  here 
being  about  800  feet  in  width,  with  perpendicular  banks 
of  325  feet. 


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SPRINGS  AND  TAI-LS. 


80 

,v  „York  Central)  from  Suspension 
The  railway  ride  (^"^"^J^^^      JdcBt  in  tUe  world 

perhaps  none  can  ^^f^^  ^  ^^le  below  the  hridge. 

^  The  Whirlpool  and  R»P'^/    ^  ^„rthy  a  visit.    The 
a^esigUtsofgreatinteres^^andwelW       y^^^^    .^^^ 

Wlurlpool,  3  miles  ^^"J^^Jebr^ted  Maelstrom  on  the 
,embles  in  its  -V^^^^^^^^  „y  the  ri.er  mahing 
coast  of  Norway.    It  ^^  ^^^'^^^re  narrower  than  at  any 
nearly  a  right  angle,  ^^^^'^^ZO  rods  wide,  the  current 
other  place,  not  bemg  more  than  6  .^  ^^^  ^^^^^  ,o 

inning  with  ^^^l^^jZ^n^^^^^'^'^^^Z, 
feet  above  the  sides.   Tb^tt  ^^^  ^ank  to    he 

ttent.  There  is  a  P''*  ^^J;^^  ,,  somewhat  dif&cult  to 
Whirlpool  on  ^*\»f  i-^^J^tm^Lod  almost  every  day. 
descend  and  '«='^"f ' '*  ^  .^r  down,  is  also  a  pomt  o 
The  Devil's  Hole,  1  mile  fart^  p„„_  ^  ,^all 

'at  attraction,  --f^!  J^?  Entiish  soldiers  were  pre- 
ftream,  where  a  ^'^^^l^i^;^^  by  Indians  durmg 
cipitated  in  their  A'S^*  «°^  ^^  amphitheatre  of  bigh 
the  old  French  war  in  1759-    ^  ti,e  vaUey  of 

ground  spreads  around  and  pe^c  T    ^^  ^  ^^^^^^ 
the  Devil's  Hole,  with  tbe  excep  ^  ^^^^^  j„,,,, 

trmedbyBloodyBux^fromj^Uich  J  ^^^ 

there  is  no  escai^-  -^^^^^^  '^^^cted  with  the  Devi  s 

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SPRINGS  AND  FALLS. 


81 


ment  on  the  Canadian  side,  and  -he  Suspension  ^Bridge  at 
LeT"iston.  Queenstown  is  well  worthy  a  visit  from  the  so- 
journer at  the  Falls,  and  affords  a  most  delightful  drive. 
It  is  historically  as  well  as  pictorially  interesting.  Here 
General  Brock  and  his  aid-de-camp  McDonnell  fell,  Octo- 
ber 11th,  1812.  Brock's  Monument,  which  crowns  the 
heights  above  the  village,  is  185  feet  high,  surmoimted  by 
a  dome  of  9  feet,  which  is  reached  by  a  spiral  flight  of  250 
steps  from  the  base  inside.  The  remains  of  Brock  and  his 
comrade  lie  in  stone  sarcophagi  beneath,  having  been  re- 
moved thither  from  Fort  George.  This  is  the  second  mo- 
nument erected  on  the  spot,  the  first  having  been  destroy- 
ed by  Lett,  in  1840.  The  Suspension  Bridge,  at  this  point, 
was  built  by  two  joint-stock  companies,  one  incorporated 
by  the  Legislature  of  New-York  State,  and  the  other  by 
the  Provincial  Parliament.  The  roadway  is  849  feet  long, 
20  feet  wide,  60  feet  above  the  water ;  cost,  $58,000 ;  erect- 
ed, 1850.  The  Niagara  River  is  navigable  from  Lewiston 
to  its  mouth  at  Fort  Niagara,  a  farther  distance  of  7  miles, 
or  14  below  the  Falls  of  Niagara.  See  sketch  entitled 
Lake  Ontario  and  River  Saint  Lawrence,  which 
takes  up  the  journey  at  Lewiston,  and  continues  it  to  the 
Gulf  of  Saint  Lawrence. 

Before  we  leave  our  readers  to  put  our  counsels  to  prac- 
tice and  test,  let  us  add  one  or  two  cautions.  Especially 
beware  of  hackmen ;  look  upon  them  as  sworn  raiders  on 
your  pockets,  and  it  you  must  employ  them,  make  your  bar- 
gain at  the  start.  Kez^t  in  importance,  let  us  advise,  that 
you  be  not  deceived  by  any  appearance  of  water  or  cliff,  so 
aa  to  venture  into  danger.  And  finally,  what  we  hope  you 
will  read,  friend,  before  you  come  within  sight  of  the 
Great  Cataract,  don't  be  absurd,  and  leave  your  umbrella 
in  the  cars  because  you  see  water  falling  from  a  cliff  in- 
Btead  of  out  of  the  sky. 


82 


SPRINGS   AND   FALLS. 


BAKEB'S  FALLS. 

This  romantic  locality  is  but  little  known  to  the  travel 
ing  public.  It  is  a  cataract  in  xhe  Hudson  River,  between 
the  villages  of  Fort  Edward  and  Sandy  Hill,  in  both 
of  which  places  (only  2  or  3  miles  apart)  there  are 
comfortable  inns.  The  Falls  are  easily  accessible  to  the 
pedestrian,  and  are  well  worthy  a  visit.  Tourists  on  the 
way  to  Lake  George  will  do  well  to  lie  over  a  day  at  Fort 
Edward,  and  visit  the  finest  falls  which  the  Hudson  River 
can  boast  of.  That  magnificent  stream  is  unusually  free 
from  these  picturesque  obstructions,  and  Baker's  Falls  are 
by  no  means  unworthy  even  the  noble  Hudson.  The  wa- 
ter here  shoots  down  a  steep  descent  of  ledges,  in  all  76 
feet  in  60  rods,  forming  a  scene  of  great  beauty,  and  af- 
fording an  extensive  water-power. 

PASSAIC  FALLS,  FATEBSON. 

Paterson,  N.  J.,  on  the  Erie  Railway,  is  celebrated  as 
affording  one  of  the  most  romantic  waterfalls  in  the  coun. 
try,  and  the  neighboring  scene  is  of  a  highly  picturesque 
character.  The  fall  in  the  Passaic  River,  originally  70 
feet,  (50  feet  in  the  perpendicular  line,)  has  been  increased 
to  about  90  feet  by  a  dam  above.  From  this  dam  a  short 
sluice  conducts  the  water  into  a  basin  or  reservoir,  partly 
made  by  art  and  partly  by  nature.  A  causeway  has  been 
raised  across  an  immense  chasm,  walled  in  by  rocks,  pre- 
senting almost  perpendicular  sides  from  the  bottom  to  the 
upper  edge  of  the  precipice.  The  rocks  being  of  basaltic 
character,  are  rectilinear  in  form  and  perpendicular  in  their 
position,  and  this  accounts  for  the  comparatively  smooth 
sides  of  this  immense  excavation.  Below  the  causeway 
the  chasm  continues  in  its  natural  state  and  receives  the 
remaining  waters  of  the  river  a  few  rods  below.    Branch- 


SPEIXG8  AND  FALLS. 


83 


ing  off  from  the  larger  opening,  there  is  another,  running 
nearly  parallel  with  the  river,  which  gradually  diminishes 
to  a  mere  crevice  between  the  perpendicular  sides  of  the 
rock.  Into  this  crevice  the  waters  of  the  Passaic,  sudden- 
ly turning  from  their  course,  leap  and  dash  with  an  impe- 
tuosity converting  the  whole  mass  into  foam.  Seven 
miles  from  Paterson,  the  river  passes  through  the  roman- 
tic and  picturesque  village  of  Acquackononck,  and  soon 
reaches  the  immense  flats  which  border  the  Hudson  River 
and  the  Bay  of  New-York  on  the  Jersey  side. 


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SEASDE  RESORTS. 


LONG  BEANCH,  N.  J. 

HABiTWiS  of  the  "  Branch  "  become  accustomed  to  the 
designations  of  "  The  Shore,"  "  The  Lower  Pole,"  and 
"The  Pole."  The  first  is  applied  to  the  sea-shore, 
skirted  by  hotels  and  summer  cottages,  at  a  convenient 
distance  from  the  beach,  upon  which,  when  the  white  flag 
indicates  the  proper  bathing  hour,  the  most  grotesque 
groups,  clad  in  parti-colored  costumes,  are  congregated, 
sporting  in  the  surf  with  hilarious  abandon. 

The  "  Pole  "  indicates  the  village  of  Long  Branch,  and 
at  a  point  where  two  roads  intersect  the  main  village 
street,  a  majestic  liberty-pole  has  been  maintained  with 
laudable  patriotism  many  years.  This  village,  some 
two  miles  from  the  shore,  was  founded  by  the  fishermen, 
whose  humble  tenements  there  found  greater  protection 
from  the  wintry  blasts. 

The  "  Lower  Pole,"  where  a  humbler  pole  is  erected, 
is  a  collection  of  houses,  within  half  a  mile  of  the  shore, 
occupied  by  the  proprietors  and  others  interested  in  the 
hotel  and  business  establishments  of  the  sea-shore,  who 
are  thus  conveniently  near  to  look  after  their  interests 
during  the  stagnancy  of  the  bleak  winters. 

It  is  well  known  that  Philadelphians  formerly  drove 
to  this  point,  then  an  Indian  camping-ground,  for  bathing 
purposes ;  a  boarding-house  was  erected. for  their  accom- 


SEASIDE  BESOBTS. 


modation,  near  the  present  Meiropolita  i  Hotel ;  from  tliis 
pioneer  enterprise  gradually  spring  others,  as  the  increas- 
ing demand  for  accommodation  would  justify. 

This  leading  resort,  some  32  miles  from  New- York,  has 
risen  to  a  remarkable  degree  of  fL7or  and  prosperity.  Last 
year  some  50,000  guests  were  there  during  the  summer. 
The  leading  hotels  pride  themselves  on  their  tables  and 
accommodations,  and  the  bathing  arrangements  are  such, 
that  years  have  passed  by  without  a  serious  accident,  al- 
though bathers  disregard  all  rules,  ofttimes  with  a  sui- 
cidal recklessness.  Many  of  the  cottages  and  improved 
grounds  are  elaborate  and  costly.  Some  7.0  new  ones 
have  been  erected  during  +he  winter,  and  some  property 
has  increased  in  value  sixteen-fold  in  four  years,  real  es- 
tate having  increased  here  some  $4,000,000,  as  shown  by 
the  tax  lists. 

Among  some  elegant  artistic  efforts,  for  which  this  place 
has  been  drawn  upon,  is  an  oil  painting  by  Rosenberg, 
"  Long  Branch  by  Moonlight ;"  the  scene  being  laid  at  the 
bluff  fronting  the  Continental  Hotel.  It  is  a  gem,  and  the 
largest  painting  we  have  seen  of  any  watering-place.  A 
collection  of  100  photographic  views  of  the  vicinity,  with 
letter-press  sketches,  is  also  issued  for  this  season.  A 
map  showing  the  various  drives,  resorts,  cottages,  (occu- 
pants,) etc.,  is  also  announced  for  1868,  for  the  assistance 
of  strangers  in  their  peregrinations. 

Hotels. — The  largest  and  principal  hotels  are,  the  Me- 
tropolitan, Continental,  Mansion  House,  Howland's  and 
Stetson's,  designated  in  their  geographical  order.  The  Me 
tropolitan  was  rebuilt  in  1865  by  the  present  firm,  of  Cooper 
&  Laird,  (Joseph  H.  Cooper  and  Samuel  Laird.)  It  is  a  fine 
structure,  in  L  form,  located  some  300  yards  short  of  the 
Sea  Shore  Railway  terminus,  with  a  depot  on  the  premises. 


SEASIDE    BESOBTS. 


i 


I 

8 


Capacity,  some  600  guests  ;  terms,  $3  to  $5  per  day.  A 
Philadelphia  band  is  engaged  for  the  season. 

The  Continental  Hotel,  immediately  south  of  the  depots^ 
was  built  by  the  present  proprietors,  Messrs.  Sprague  & 
Stokes,  in  1866,  embracing  the  old  National  and  Congress 
Hall  hotels,  as  wings  to  the  new  structure,  presenting  a 
solid  frontage  of  700  feet,  with  half  a  mile  of  galleries.  A 
portion  of  the  building  extends  back  250  feet.  The  dining- 
room  is  75  by  200  feet,  the  largest  ball-room  on  the  Branch, 
if  not  at  any  watering-place.  The  billiard-room  has  nine 
tables.  Bowling-alleys,  shooting-galleries,  brass  and  string 
bands,  and  other  accessories  are  abundantly  provided.  Ca- 
pacity, 800  guests ;  terms,  $3  to  $5  per  day. 

The  Mansion  House  was  originally  built  as  the  pioneer 
hotel ;  it  has  been  owned  and  kept  by  Mr.  Samuel  Laird 
for  a  number  of  years ;  location,  adjoining  the  Continental 
on  the  south.  The  house  and  grounds  are  well  kept  up. 
The  New- York  Seventh  Regiment  band  furnishes  the 
music.  Billiard-room  in  a  separate  building.  Capacity, 
some  300  to  400;  terms,  $4  per  day  or  $25  per  week; 
usually  remains  open  later  than  other  houses. 

Howland's  Hotel  will  be  conducted  this  season  by  two  of 
the  original  proprietors,  Messrs.  Howland  &  White,  Mr. 
Herbert  having  retired.  The  original  portion  of  tliis 
structure  was  built  over  40  years  since.  It  has  been  largely 
patronized  by  Philadelphia  families  of  retired  dispositions, 
by  some  of  them  since  the  first  opening.  Mr.  Howland  has 
conducted  it  some  25  years.  Capacity,  over  300  guests; 
prices  ranging  same  as  other  first-class  houses ;  location, 
north  of  the  Stetson. 

The  Stetson  House  is  located  over  a  mile  south  of  the 
depots,  at  the  farther  end  of  the  beach.  It  was  built  by  a 
company  in  1866,  and  leased  to  Charles  A.  Stetson^  Jr.,  &  Co. 


SEASIDE  BESOBTS. 


«k!t 


It  is  handsomely  furnished ;  the  appointments  are  exten- 
sive ;  a  billiard  and  bar-room,  etc.,  provided  in  a  building 
detached  from  the  main  structure.  The  latter  is  in  L  form, 
presenting  two  fronts;  distinct  in  appear£fnce  from  any 
other  house  in  having  no  upper  galleries ;  rows  of  tall  col- 
umns from  the  ground  floor  supporting  the  projecting  roof. 
Capacity,  600  to  800 ;  terms,  $5  per  day. 

Gilmore,  of  Boston,  furnished  last  year  the  bands  for 
this  house  and  the  Continental.  He  will  furnish  his  in- 
imitable music  this  year  to  the  Stetson  at  least. 

The  Pavilion  Hotel  is  situated  about  half  a  mile  south  of 
the  depots,  S.  C.  Morris,  proprietor. 

The  Bath  (or  Green's)  Hotel,  formerly  located  south  of 
the  above,  destroyed  by  fire  in  the  spring  of  1867,  will  not 
be  rebuilt.    Three  cottages  are  erected  on  the  site. 

The  United  States  Hotel,  a  little  south  of  the  Mansion, 
recently  bought  by  New- York  capitalists,  has  been  leased, 
and  will  be  open  from  July  1st. 

.  The  Clarendon,  the  nearest  to  the  depots,  conducted  last 
year  by  Jenkinson,  (now  of  the  Highlands,)  will  be  con- 
ducted by  Mrs.  Mortimer,  who  last  season  had  the  Cooper 
Cottage. 

The  Atlantic,  kept  by  Cristala,  about  half  a  mile  north 
of  the  Metropolitan,  is  largely  patronized  by  those  of  the 
Israelitish  faith. 

Cooper  Cottage,  near  the  Metropolitan,  is  a  popular 
boarding-house,  with  rooms  for  100  guests.  Samuel  Laird, 
proprietor.    $3  per  day,  or  $17.50  per  week. 

Charles  Jackson's  Cottage,  on  the  Pleasure  Bay  road,  cor- 
ner Loi)^  Branch  avenue,  is  of  a  similar  character,  though 
not  so  large. 

These  hotels  generally  open  early  in  jTine,  and  close 
late  in  September. 


SEASIDE   EESOETS. 


\ 


They  are  all  upon  tlie  beach  shores,  with  bathing-grounds 
attached,  the  principal  houses  having  separate  gas-works. 
A  company  has  been  formed  with  the  intention  of  erect- 
ing public  gas-works  in  time  to  supply  the  sea-shore  this 
summer,  and  the  village  in  the  fall. 

The  Dunbarton  House  is  located  some  4  miles  back 
from  the  Branch  shore,  on  a  fine  prominence,  a  short  dis- 
tance from  Oceanport  Station,  kept  by  Mrs.  Downs,  of  Fifth 
avenue,  New- York  The  vicinity  abounds  in  private 
boarding-houses,  at  prices  ranging  from  $8  to  $15  per 
week,  and  many  private  families  bring  into  requisition 
every  available  room  during  the  "  season." 

At  Deal,  some  five  miles  south  from  the  railway  ter- 
minus, are  two  hotels,  Hathaway's  having  been  exten- 
sively rebuilt  this  spring.  The  bluff  does  not  extend  to  this 
point.  With  the  new  buildings,  Hathaway  will  accom- 
modate 400  guests.  Abner  Allen's  Hotel  accommodates 
250  guests.  The  prices  at  Deal  are  moderate,  and  the 
houses  keep  open  through,  tho  entire  season.  Telegraph 
and  post-office  at  Deal. 

Shark  River,  a  short  distance  beyond  Deal,  is  a  pleasant 
drive  from  the  "  Branch  ;"  and,  during  the  summer,  is  the 
rendezvous  for  picnic  parties  and  excursionists,  who  resort 
thither  for  boating,  crabbing,  and  to  sit  in  judgment  upon 
the  relative  excellence  of  these  bivalves  and  those  found 
at  Pleasure  Bay. 


FLEASlTBi:  BAY. 


This  is  an  attractive  resort,  about  a  mile  north  of  the 
depot,  on  the  Shrewsbury  river,  for  lovers  of  boating,  fish- 
ing, and  aquatic  sports,  and  where  bivalves,  crabs,  and 
shell-fi.sh  in  considerable  variety  are  found,  and  served  up 


6 


SEASIDE  BESOBTS. 


4 


in  a  style  of  cuisine  of  the  first  order.  The  New-York 
Hotel  is  the  principal  house,  built  and  opened  by  Isaac  P. 
Cooper,  in  1867.  Good  accommodation.  Rates,  $2.50  per 
day,  or  $15  per  week.  "  Old  man  West,"  in  the  imme- 
diate vicinity,  and  Price's  Hotel,  also  afford  good  entertain- 
ment.    Open  May  1st  to  October  1st. 

Attbactive  Points. — The  drives  are  moptly  over  well- 
graveled  turnpikes,  that  skirting  the  principal  bluff  being 
regularly  sprinkled.  Mineral  Spring  is  near  Oceanville, 
a  drive  of  two  miles  from  the  Stetson  House.  The  waters 
are  highly  medicinal,  as  a  tonic,  one  gallon  containing 
one  and  a  quarter  grains  of  carbonate  of  iron.  These 
springs  are  romantically  located,  and  form  a  pleasant  resort. 
A  fine  park  of  over  200  acres  is  being  elegantly  improved, 
with  choice  shrubbery,  etc.,  and  already  fo.'ms  a  splendid 
drive  upon  the  bluflf,  south  of  Stetson's,  toward  Deal. 
This  has  been  mapped  out,  and  the  improvements  de- 
signed, in  detail,  by  Olmstead,  of  the  Central  Park,  New 
York.  The  wrecking  station,  with  life-car,  etc.,  seen  upon 
the  beach  in  approaching  the  above  park,  is  well  worth  a 
visit ;  and  the  ofliicer  in  charge,  Mr.  Charles  H.  Green,  re- 
sides at  the  old  Green  homestead  "•lard  by,  and  will  ex- 
plain the  modus  operandi  of  the  various  apparatus.  The 
grounds  of  John  Hoey,  Esq.,  are  on  Cedar  avenue,  a  short 
distance  beyond  the  Stetson,  and  are  magnificently  im- 
proved. They  are  thrown  open  to  the  public  to  as  great 
an  extent  as  is  compatible  with  the  labor  necessarily  be- 
stowed on  them.  A  drive  to  Eatontown  leads  past  "  Tur- 
tle Mills,"  a  most  picturesque  view.  The  road  over  the 
dam,  skirted  by  willows,  the  mill-race,  and  the  mill,  still 
running,  though  built  before  the  Revolution.  Another 
fine  view  is  from  Newman  Springs,  in  the  vicmity  of 
Eatontown  and  Shrewsbury.    At  this  point  the  famed 


! 


SEASIDE  RESORTS. 


irt 


Le 


! 


Navesink  River  takes  its  rise.  Nauvoo  is  a  cluster  of 
fishermen's  residences  and  ice-houses,  upon  the  beach,  a 
few  miles  north  ot  the  shore,  on  the  large  tract  of  Dr.  A. 
V.  Conover,  who  rents  it  for  a  nominal  sum  to  the  fisher- 
men. GifFord,  the  New- York  artist,  has  made  this  the 
subject  of  a  fine  painting.  The  euphonious  designation  of 
Nauvoo  is  a  synonym  for  Salt  Lake  City,  probably  sug- 
gested by  the  salting  of  quantities  of  fish  for  market.  The 
return  scene  on  this  beach,  of  the  men  and  boats,  is  some- 
times highly  romantic. 

Post-Offices,  etc. — Branch  Shore  Post-Office,  N.  J.,  is 
at  the  Continental  Hotel,  and  all  letters  for  hotels  on  the 
beach  should  be  so  addressed.  Telegraph  offices  at  depots, 
Continental,  Stetson's,  and  intermediate  points. 

Hack  Hire,  etc. — To  prevent  extortion,  a  recent  ordi- 
nance forbids  hackmen  to  charge  more  than  $2  per  hour. 
Omnibuses  charge  25  cents  from  the  depot  to  any  hotel. 
Mr.  Cooper,  of  Pleasure  Bay,  will  run  an  omnibus  to  his 
hotel,  irom  any  point  on  the  beach,  for  the  same  price,  and 
ten  cents  between  different  points  along  the  beach. 

Base  Ball. — This  popular  exercise  is  much  in  vogue  at 
the  shore.  The  "  Sea  Sides"  have  played  some  very  suc- 
cessful match  games.  The  "  Chelsea  Club"  is  a  recent 
organization  of  amateur  gentlemen. 

Routes  to  Long  Branch. — The  oldest  and  permanent 
route  is  by  the  Raritan  and  Delaware  Bay  Railway  by 
boat  from  Pier  32  North  River,  .it  4  p.m.,  connecting  at 
Port  Monmouth  with  trains.  Returning,  leave  Branch 
Shore  at  7.15  a.m.  These  trains  run  throughout  the 
year.  During  summer,  some  four  trains  eadi  way  are  run. 
Boats  touch  also  at  Pier  1,  North  River.  Time-tables  in 
the  daily  papers.  Commutation  fare,  $90  per  annum,  or 
about  $20  per  month. 


8 


SEASIDE   BESOBTS. 


Sea  Shore  Railway.  —  By  this  road,  whicli  runs 
during  the  summer  season,  boats  leave  foot  of  Clarkson 
street,  connecting  at  Sandy  Hook  with  trains  running 
along  the  shore  to  the  Highlands,  and  the  Long  Branch 
terminus.  From  the  15th  of  June  to  15th  September, 
leave  New- York  at  10.30  a.m.,  and  4.00  and  5.15  p.m. 
Leave  Long  Branch  at  7.15  A.M.,  12.45  and  6.15  P.M. 
Fare  on  either  road  $1,  or  $1.50  for  the  round  trip. 


HIGHLANDS   OF  NAVESINK. 

These  commanding  bluffs  are  upon  the  line  of  the  Sea 
Shore  Railway,  24  miles  from  New- York,  or  reached  by 
stage,  7  miles  from  Highland  Station,  on  the  Raritan  and 
Delaware  Bay  Railway,  some  7  miles  from  Long  Branch. 
The  Red  Bank  boats  touch  at  the  dock. 

Hotels. — Thompson's  Atlantic  Pavilion  is  the  oldest 
and  principal  house,  on  a  sloping  lawn  upon  the  bluff, 
looking  seaward.  The  steamboat  Stewart,  belonging  to 
the  proprietor,  conveys  guests  across  the  river  to  the  depot 
and  to  the  bathing-grounds,  for  excursions,  etc.  Opens  1st 
June  and  until  late  in  the  fall.  Rates  of  charge,  $3  per 
day,  und  lower  to  families. 

Schenck's  Hotel  is  leased  by  Charles  Jenkinson  from 
Long  Branch,  and  is  opened  on  a  much  improved  scale. 
Opening  and  terms  about  the  same. 

Attractions. — The  well-known  U.  S.  light-house  build- 
ing rears  its  massive  towers  behind  these  hotels.  The 
views  from  the  bluffs  are  splendid,  and  the  scenery  and 
walks  rugged  and  romantic.  Elegantly  improved  cottages 
are  springing  up  on  every  side.  The  Neptune  Club  House 
in  this  vicinity  forms  a  delightful  resort  for  +he  members 
and  their  friends  through  the  summer. 


SEASIDE  KBSOBTS. 


)0t 


)er 


BED  BANK,  N.  J. 

The  view  of  this  pretty  town,  from  over  the  Shrewsbury 
River,  upon  which  it  is  located,  is,  in  the  summer  season, 
one  of  surpassing  loveliness.  The  environs  are  attractive, 
and  afford  subjects  for  many  off-hand  sketches.  Hence  it 
is  the  chosen  summer  residence  of  Arthur  Lumley  and 
other  artists. 

The  sailii.^,  boating,  fishing,  crabbing,  etc.,  are  very  fine, 
and  shell-fish  abound  in  profusion.  The  river  affords  salt- 
water bathing. 

Hotels.— The  Globe  Hotel,  kept  by  Hendrickson,  is  a 
standard,  well-kept  house  throughout  the  year.  French's 
Hotel  is  at  the  depot. 

The  "  Riverside "  and  "  Atkins' "  are  summer  houses, 
open  from  June  to  October.  Rates,  from  $2.50  to  $3.50 
per  day. 

Routes. — By  the  Raritan  and  Delaware  Bay  Railway, 
on  express  trains,  same  time  as  to  Long  Branch.  Time, 
one  hour  from  New- York. 

By  steamboats  Sea  Bird  and  Helen,  from  Kew-Yorfc, 
changing  time  half-hour  each  day  with  the  tide.  Monthly 
time-tables  in  advance  in  New-York  papers.  The  distance 
is  about  the  same  as  that  of  the  Highlands. 


lorn 
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NEWFOBT,  ANB  SUBBOVNDINGS. 

To  Newport,  the  most  elegant  watering-placo  of  the 
United  States,  as  Saratoga  is  the  most  popular,  there  is  a 
great  variety  of  routes  from  New-York  City,,  the  chief  dif- 
ference in  them  being  according  to  a  traveler's,  preference 
for  the  rapid  rail  journey,  a  voyage  partly  by  river,  or  one 
by  the  Sound.  The  nearest  approach  to  an.  all-rail  route 
begins  at  Twenty-seventh  street  depot,  New- York,  8  A.M., 


I 


10 


SEASIDE   RESORTS. 


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M 

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> 

and  readies  Providence  in  8  hours  by  the  Shore  Line,  going 
thence  to  Newport  direct  by  steamboat  in  2  hours — a  con- 
stantly interesting  sail.  Or  one  may  take  the  Hartford 
boat  from  Peck  Slip,  East  River,  and  from  Hartford  take 
the  Providence,  Hartford,  and  Fishkill  (more  properly  called 
the  Boston,  Atlantic,  and  Erie)  Railway,  4  hours  to  Provi- 
dence, whence  by  boat  as  before.  The  principal  and  most 
fashionable  route,  however,  is  that  through  Long  Island 
Sound,  by  the  Fall  River  Line  of  steamers,  from  Pier  28 
North  River,  foot  of  Murray  street.  New- York  City,  5  r.M., 
to  Newport  direct,  arriving  early  in  the  morning.  The 
boats,  which  are  among  the  finest  on  the  Sound,  are  the 
Metropolis,  Capt.  Simmons,  and  the  Ne^vport,  Capt.  Brown. 
Fore,  $4;  state-room  and  supper,  $1  each.  A  messenger 
of  Dodd's  Express  will  call  for  baggage  to  go  by  this  line, 
hi  New- York  and  Brooklyn,  upon  notice  being  left  at 
offices — foot  of  Cortlandt  street,  North  River,  and  944  Broad- 
wtj,  New- York,  and  at  No.  1  Court  street,  Brooklyn. 

Arrived  at  Newport,  the  visitor  finds  any  number  of 
stages  at  the  wharf  or  depot,  ready  to  convey  him  to  a 
hotel.  The  Ocean  House  is  the  most  fashionable,  and  the 
nearest  to  the  beach,  being  on  Bellevue  avenue,  corner  of 
Bowery  street.,  about  half  a  mile  up  from  the  wharf.  Ca- 
pacity for  600  guests ;  generally  open  from  June  15th  to 
September  lOtli ;  telegraph  office  in  the  house  ;  post-office 
near ;  New- York  and  Boston  papers  always  on  hand ;  table 
tolerable ;  terms,  $5  per  day — same  by  the  week  or  season. 
The  Atlantic  House  is  situated  at  the  corner  of  Pelham  and 
Touro  streets,  directly  opposite  Touro  Park  and  the  Old 
Stone  Mill.  It  is  kept  by  William  W.  Hazard,  assisted  by 
John  Peckham  as  clerk,  and  the  post-office  address  is  Box 
893,  Newport,  R.  I.  It  will  accommodate  250  guests,  and 
is  generally  open  from  May  to  October.    The  house  is 


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i^f 


SEASIDK   RESORTS. 


It 


■■>'• 


t-ii: 


lighted  by  gas  and  licatod  by  eteara— a  very  important 
item  to  those  who  sojourn  in  Newport.    Tlicro  is  a  tolis 
graph  station  near  by.    The  Atlantic  House  was  used  by 
the  Government  as  a  Naval  School  during?  the  late  civil 
war.    Always  supplied  with  New- York  and  Boston  papers. 
The  Aquidneck  House  is  situated  at  the  corner  of  IVliiam 
and  Came  streets,  just  below  the  Atlantic.    It  is  kept  by 
William  Hodges,  assisted  by  B.  A.  Winslow,  as  clerk. 
Post-office  address.  Box  777,  Newport,  R.  I.    It  will  accom- 
modate 150  guests,  and  is  open  the  year  round.    The  Pel- 
ham  Street  House  is  a  short  distance  below  the  Aquidneck, 
at  12  Pelham  street ;  proprietor,  James  T.  Potter ;  Box  770, 
post-ofTice  address ;  open  all  the  year,  and  will  accommo- 
date GO  persons;  terms  for  the  summer  of  18G8,  $2.50  per 
day,  and  $12  per  week.     The  Perry  House  is  situated 
opposite  Washington  Square,  at  the  head  of  Long,  or 
Steamboat  Wharf;  proprietor,  George  W.  Hodges;  Box 
784.     Tliis  house  is  nearly  new,  first  class,  accommodating 
150  guests,  and  is  the  nearest  the  railway,  wharf,  and  tlio 
business  part  of  the  city.     Shanahan's  Opera-IIouse  adjoins 
it — the  finest  theatre,  outside  of  Boston,  in  New-England, 
128  by  50  feet,  seating  1000  persons.    The  prices  at  the  Perry 
House  are,  for  the  summer,  from  $3.50  to  $4  per  day, 
according  to  rooms  taken;   $15  to  $25   per  week.      In 
the  winter  the  charge  is  $3  per  day.    The  United  States 
Hotel  (George  H.  Copeland,  Box  787)  is  on  the  corner  of 
Thames  and  Pelham  streets,  near  the  Providence  boat 
landing,  in  the  business  section.     Capacity,  60  guests; 
open   all   the  year;    prices  from   $2.50  to  $3   per  day. 
There  are  also  many  large  boarding-houses  in  and  near 
Newport,  which  are  always  well  patronized.    The  most 
popular  method  of  living,  however,  among  the  leaders  of 
fashion,  has  become  the  dwelling  in  cottages,  purchased  or 


12 


SEASIDE  BESOBTS. 


;, 


rented  for  the  eummer,  and  really  among  the  finest  attrac- 
tions of  the  place  as  a  summer  resort,  albeit  their  increase 
has  been  marked  by  a  falling  off  in  hotel  patronage.  The 
extreme  charges  of  the  leading  hotels  have  seriously  injur- 
ed the  popularity  of  Newport  with  such  tourists  as  can  not 
afford  time  or  money  for  the  elegant  cottage-life. 

The  facilities  for  surf-bathing  at  Newport  are  not  excelled 
by  any  place  in  this  country.  There  are  three  fine  beaches, 
called  Easton's,  Sachuest's,  and  Smith's.  Easton's  is  the 
one  generally  used  by  the  majority;  and  it  is  so  situated 
that  there  is  no  danger  to  the  bathers  from  under-currents, 
while  the  breakers  follow  each  other  in  majestic  succession. 
This  beach  is  about  half  a  mile  from  the  principal  hotels, 
and  public  conveyances  ply  regularly  to  and  fro. 

The  drives  about  Newport  are  excellent.  In  1867,  a  new 
one  was  made  by  the  city  authorities,  commencing  at  Belle- 
vue  avenue,  near  the  Ocean  House,  and  continuing  south 
2  miles;  thence  west  3  miles,  along  the  shore;  thence 
north  1  mile ;  and  thence  north-east  to  Bellevue  avenue,  3 
miles.  The  entire  drive  is  10  miles  long,  80  feet  vdde,  and 
is  macadamized.  It  is  pronounced  the  best  one  in  the  coun- 
try, and  some  of  the  finest  residences  in  the  city  are  located 
on  it.  An  unobstructed  view  of  the  Atlantic  Ocean  is  afford- 
ed for  nearly  the  entire  length  of  this  road. 

Near  Sachiiest  Beach,  at  the  northern  extremity  of  the 
Bluff,  is  a  dark  chasm  called  Purgatory.  By  actual  meas- 
urement, the  chasm  is  160  feet  in  length ;  from  8  to  14  feet 
wide  at  the  top ;  from  2  to  24  feet  wide  at  the  bottom ;  50 
feet  depth  at  th(3  outer  edge ;  and  10  feet  of  water  at  low 
tide.  Near  by  are  the  Hanging  Rocks,  within  whose 
shadow  it  is  said  that  Bishop  Berkeley  wrote  his  Minute 
Philosopher.  The  Glen  and  the  Spouting  Cave  are  charm- 
ing places  to  ride  to,  when  the  weather  invites.    Lily  Pond, 


I 


\ 


Ac^M 


SEASIDE    RESORTS. 


13 


Lcst  attrac- 
ir  increase 
age.  The 
usly  injur- 
as  can  not 

ot  excelled 
le  beaches, 
on's  is  the 
30  situated 
jr-currents, 
succession, 
pal  hotels, 
>. 

1867,  a  new 
\g  at  Belle- 
ling  south 
re;  thence 
avenue,  3 
wide,  and 
the  coun- 
re  located 
n  is  afFord- 

lity  of  the 
Itual  meas- 

to  14  feet 
lottom;  50 
Iter  at  low 
tin  whose 
ts  Minute 
ire  charm- 

Aly  Pond, 


I 


the  largest  sheet  of  spring  water  on  the  island,  is  easily 
reached  from  Spouting  Cave.  The  waters  of  the  pond 
swarm  with  perch. 

The  city  of  Newport  is  so  ancient,  and  once  so  prominent 
a  town,  that  it  would  be  of  interest  to  the  visitor,  wholly 
apart  from  its  present  fashionable  relations.  Indeed,  New- 
port may  be  said  properly  to  be  two  places — an  old  metro, 
polls,  and  a  watering-place ;  a^d,  like  Quebec  reversed,  it 
has  its  upper,  or  new  town,  and  its  lower,  or  old  town. 
The  harbor  is  one  of  the  best  and  deepest  in  the  world. 
The  entrance  to  it  is  2  miles  in  width,  29  fathoms  in  depth, 
and  in  only  one  instance  has  it  been  closed  by  ice  since  the 
first  settlement.  As  late  as  1769,  the  city  exceeded  New- 
York  in  the  extent  of  her  foreign  and  domestic  commerce. 
In  the  Revolution,  the  British  long  held  possession  of  the 
place,  during  which  time  (till  1797)  the  population  decreas- 
ed from  12,000  to  4000.  Among  the  interesting  relics  to 
be  found  in  the  town  are :  Franklin's  printing-press,  im- 
ported by  James  Franklin  in  1720.  It  is  in  the  oflBlce 
of  the  Neicport  Mercury y  established  in  1758.  Upon  this 
press  the  first  newspaper  issued  (1732)  was  printed.  The 
Chair  of  State,  in  which  Benedict  Arnold  sat  at  the  recej)- 
tion  of  the  charter  in  1663,  is  in  the  possession  of  the  Gould 
family.  The  First  Baptist  Church,  founded  in  1638,  and 
claimed  as  the  oldest  church  in  Rhode  Island,  is  worthy  a 
\isit. 

Newport  was  the  birthplace  of  the  gifted  miniature- 
painter  Malbone,  and  Gilbert  Stuart's  place  of  nativity 
may  be  seen  in  Narraganset,  across  the  bay.  Stuart  made 
two  copies  of  his  great  Washington  picture  for  Rhode 
Island,  one  of  which  may  be  seen  in  the  State-house  at 
Newport,  and  the  other  in  that  at  Providence. 

The  Old  Stone  Mill,  in  Touro  Park,  opposite  the  Atlan- 


i 


':^ 


14 


SEASIDE    RESORTS. 


tic  House,  is  f«  curiosity,  and  is  tenderly  erred  for  by  the 
city  authorities.  It  is  sometimes  caKed  the  Hound 
Tower.  The  origin  and  early  history  of  this  "old 
mill"  is  a  mystery,  and  has  led  to  many  fruitless 
conjectures.  Some  antiquarians  claim  for  it  the  honor 
of  having  afforded  a  secure  shelter  to  tlie  Norsemen, 
who,  they  say,  built  it  as  a  lookout  and  a  tower  of  de- 
fense; but  the  modern  observers  deny  it  this  enviable 
renown,  and  maintain  that  it  was  built  by  Governor 
Benedict  Arnold,  the  first  charter  governor  of  the 
colony,  who  owned  the  property  at  the  time  of  his  death, 
and  calls  it  in  his  will  "  my  stone-built  windmill."  Red- 
wood Library,  near  the  opera-house,  established  by  Abra- 
ham Redwood  in  1750,  contains  one  of  the  very  best  col- 
lections of  paintings,  choice  books,  and  statuary  in  the 
country.  The  Jewish  Synagogue,  on  Touro  street,  was 
built  in  1672,  and  up  to  the  Revolutionary  War  was  regu- 
larly opened  for  worship,  and  was  the  only  place  in  New- 
England  where  Hebrew  was  chanted  and  read  weekly. 
There  were  many  families  of  wealthy  and  influential  Jews 
in  Newport  at  that  time ;  now  there  are  none.  Abraham 
Touro  left  $20,000  in  charge  of  the  town  authorities,  the 
interest  to  be  expended  in  keeping  the  synagogue  and 
grounds,  and  street  leading  to  it,  in  repair;  and  the 
wishes  of  the  donor  have  been  carefully  complied  with. 
Besides  these  places,  the  visitor  should  see  the  Perry 
Monument,  Commodore  Perry's  house,  built  in  1763,  and 
long  known  as  the  "  Granary ;"  the  fortifications  in  the 
harbor.  Fort  Adams,  Fort  Wolcott,  Fort  Brown,  and  the 
Dumplings.  Fort  Adams,  on  Brenton  Point,  is  one  of  the 
largest  works  in  the  United  States,  mounting  460  guns. 

Passing  now  out  of  Newport  itself,  we  find  ourselves  in 
the  midst  of  a  most  interesting  and  beautiful  region. 


for  by  the 
he    Round 

this  "old 
y  fruitless 

the  honor 
Norsemen, 
wer  of  de- 
s  enviable 

Governor 
or   of    the 

his  death, 
ill."  Red- 
d  by  Abra- 
y  best  col- 
iry  in  the 
street,  was 

was  regu- 
e  in  Ncw- 
d  weekly, 
iitial  Jews 

Abraham 
)rities,  the 

ogue  and 
and  the 

lied  with. 

he  Perry 

1763,  and 

QS  in  the 
and  the 

ne  of  the 
guns. 

•selves  in 

1  region. 


SEASIDE  EESORTS. 


15 


Half-way  between  Pro\idence  and  Newport,  the  two  cap- 
itals of  great  Rhode  Island,  is  Rocky  Point,  a  favorite 
resort.  Marked  Rock  is  another  famous  excursion  place, 
a  few  miles  higher  up  the  bay.  It  is  reached  in  40 
minutes  from  Providence  by  boat.  The  towns  of  Warren 
and  Bristol,  across  the  bay,  are  each  worthy  of  a  visit. 
They  may  both  be  reached  several  times  a  day  from  Prov- 
idence, xia  the  Warren  and  Bristol  Railway.  Mount  Hope, 
the  famous  home  of  the  renowned  King  Philip,  the  last 
of  the  Wampanoags,  is  just  below  Bristol,  upon  Mount 
Hope  Bay,  an  arm  of  the  Narraganset  on  the  east.  From 
the  crown  of  this  picturesque  height  is  beheld  a  fine  pano- 
rama of  the  beautiful  Rhode  Island  waters.  In  summer- 
time, boats  ply  twice  a  day  on  excursion  trips  from  Provi- 
dence to  various  rural  points  down  the  bay,  charging  50 
cents  only  for  the  round  trip.  Rocky  Point  is  the  most 
favored  of  all  these  rural  recesses.  Thousands  visit  it  in 
the  course  of  the  season,  and  feast  upon  delicious  clams, 
just  drawn  from  the  water,  and  roasted  on  the  shore  in 
heated,  seaweed,  upon  true  and  orthodox  "clam-bake" 
principles.  The  hotel  is  large  and  well  fitted  up,  with 
100  acres  of  ground,  bathing-houses,  and  an  observatory, 
about  125  feet  above  the  summit  of  the  hill.  Bowling- 
alleys,  billiard-rooms,  pistol- galleries,  etc.,  are  on  the 
grounds,  and  boarders  at  the  hotel  have  the  use  of  them 
at  reduced  rates.  Proprietors,  Messrs.  De  Camp  &  Cole. 
Rooms  for  200  to  400  guests  ;  prices,  $4  per  day,  $25  for 
single  persons,  and  $20  for  each  of  two  together,  per  week. 
The  city  of  Providence  is  beautiful,  and  a  very  worthy 
place  for  the  tourist  to  spend  a  little  time  in ;  but  it  is 
said  to  be  the  wealthiest  city  (proportionately  to  its  popu- 
lation) in  America,  and  the  self-possession  resulting  there- 
from has  hindered  the  establishing  of  any  hotels  worth 
the  name;  the  visitor  will  therefore  make  the  tour  of 


16 


SEASIDE   EESOBTS. 


'  5 


tlie  city  to  advantage  "vvitliin  the  sunny  liours  of  a  single 
day.  Very  moderate  accommodation  can  be  had  at  the 
Aldrich  House,  (new,)  near  the  railway  depot,  and  the 
City  Hotel,  (old,)  near  Broad  street. 

The  city  was  founded  by  Roger  Williams  in  1G36,  and  is 
the  seat  of  Brown  (Baptist)  University,  a  very  interesting 
place  to  see.  Providence  Avas  once  a  very  important  com- 
mercial depot,  its  rich  ships  crossing  all  seas ;  and  at  tlie 
present  day  the  city  is  equally  distinguished  for  its  manu- 
facturing  and  commercial  enterprise.  In  the  former  de- 
partment of  human  achievement  it  early  took  the  lead, 
which  it  still  keeps,  the  first  cotton-mill  which  was  built 
in  America  being  still  in  use  in  its  surburban  village  oi 
Pawtucket;  and  some  of  the  heaviest  mills  and  print- 
works of  the  Union  being  now  in  operation  within  its 
limits.  It  has  also  extensive  manufactories  of  machinery 
and  jewelry. 

At  Hunt's  Mill,  three  or  four  miles  distant,  is  a  beauti- 
ful brook  with  a  picturesque  little  cascade,  a  drive  to 
which  is  among  the  morning  or  evening  pleasures  of  the 
Providence  people  and  their  guests.  Vue  de  I'Eau  is  the 
name  of  a  picturesque  and  spacious  summer  hotel,  perched 
upon  a  high  terrace  4  miles  below  the  city,  overlook- 
ing the  bay  and  its  beauties  for  many  miles  around. 

The  What  Cheer  Rock,  where  Williams  landed,  on  the 
shore  of  a  bay  in  Seekonk  River,  is  a  place  of  much  beauty 
as  well  as  historic  merit. 

At  Portsmouth  Grove  the  celebrated  Rhode  Island  Coal 
Mines  are  located.  The  south  and  main  shaft  is  worked 
by  the  Mount  Hope  Coal  Mine  Company.  It  is  worked 
down  1265  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  earth,  on  a  slope 
of  33  degrees.  15,000  tons  of  coal  are  mined  annually. 
It  is  supplied  with  engines  and  breakers,  and  with  frio- 


iH. 


~^^**^lSSfiBftb«6 


i"imri-iiiri  ,\iW-^ 


*.'  '  '•_ '  *  I  *»^TtjTTr.yrWn- 


SEASIDE  RESORTS. 


17 


of  a  single 
had  at  the 

it,  and  the 

1G36,  and  is 
interesting 
ortant  com- 

and  at  tlie 
>r  its  nianii- 
former  de- 
k  the  lead, 

was  built 

L  village  oi 

and  i^rint- 

within  its 

machinery 

a  beauti- 

drive  to 

ires  of  the 

au  is  the 

,  perched 

overlook- 

md. 

id,  on  the 
ch  beauty 

and  Coal 
worked 
worked 
n  a  slo];)e 
nnually, 
i^ith  frio- 


tion  gear  for  hauling  of  the  most  improved  pattern,  and 
has  a  wharf  and  railway  tracks  to  facilitate  shipping. 

The  north  shaft  is  worked  by  Messrs.  Crocker  &  Broth- 
ers, (Taunton  Copper  Company,)  who  have  a  smelting-works 
on  the  ground  and  another  in  Taunton,  and  they  use  this 
coal  exclusively  at  both  places,  and  consider  it  the  best 
for  smelting  copper  and  zinc  ores.  They  mine  from  8000 
to  10,000  tons  annually,  using  about  40  tons  par  day  for 
generating  steam.  This  shaft  is  600  feet  below  the  sur- 
face, on  a  slope.  The  quality  is  constantly  improving 
and  the  supply  is  thought  to  be  inexhaustible. 

The  coal  is  a  very  sharp  red  ash,  possessing  a  large  pro- 
portion of  carbon,  and  an  entire  absence  of  sulphur.  It  is 
extensively  used  in  stoves  and  modern  furnaces,  and  is 
considered  a  superior  fuel. 

A  large  army  hospital  was  located  hero  during  our  late 
civil  war. 

The  northern  limit  of  this  town  is  the  dividing-line  be- 
tween Rhode  Island  and  Massachusetts.  It  is  quite  a  re- 
sort during  the  summer  season,  and  the  best  of  fishing, 
boating,  and  bathing  privileges  can  be  obtained.  The 
Lawton  House,  seen  about  a  mile  from  the  station,  is  a 
new  one,  furnished  with  all  necessary  modern  improve- 
ments, and  kept  in  first-class  style. 

A  turnpike  road  diverges  from  here  toward  Seconnet 
Point,  distant  to  the  south  about  13  miles,  passing  through 
Tiverton  Four  Corners  and  Little  Compton. 

The  Seconnet  River  is  crossed  at  Tiverton,  opposite  the 
Lawton  House,  on  a  substantial  stone  bridge,  several  hun- 
dred feet  in  length,  and  the  railway  crosses  on  a  bridge 
about  1500  feet  long,  built  in  a  most  improved  manner, 
with  a  pivot  draw-bridge,  and  70  feet  of  water  under  it  in 
the  main  channel,  the  whole  costing  $75,000. 


i 


18 


SEASIDE   RESORTS. 


Tiverton  was  once  noted  as  the  location  of  tlie  battle- 
grounds of  the  Indians  in  earlier  years,  and  there  are 
many  places  that  bear  aboriginal  names  in  consequence. 
The  surrounding  view  from  Tiverton  Heights  is  a  beau- 
tiful one. 

The  road  from  Tiverton  to  Newport,  14  miles,  is  laid 
along  the  west  shore  of  the  island  of  Rhode  Island ; 
and  an  excellent  view  of  Narragansett  Bay,  with  its 
islands,  is  given.  This  is  one  of  the  pleasantest  railway 
rides  in  New-England  in  the  summer  season. 

Fall  lliver,  north-east  from  Newport,  and  the  terminus 
of  the  Fall  River  line  of  steamboats  before  communication 
by  rail  was  completed,  takes  its  name  from  a  stream  by 
that  name,  which  here  falls  into  the  bay  from  the  east,  by 
a  descent  of  over  130  feet.  This  river  forms  the  outlet  of 
Watuppa  Ponds,  which  lie  about  3  miles  east  of  the  city, 
and  from  which  comes  the  principal  water-power  of  the 
place.  Fall  River  is  almost  without  a  parallel  in  respect 
to  the  union  of  an  extensive  hydraulic  power  with  a  posi- 
tion immediately  ujDon  navigable  water.  At  its  highest 
elevation,  it  is  150  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The 
sunset  views  from  here  have  been  pronounced  as  beautiful 
as  those  of  Italy,  and  the  surrounding  scenery  is  thought 
to  be  superior  to  any  in  New-England.  The  harbor  is 
safe,  easy  of  access,  and  of  sufficient  depth  for  the  largest 
ships. 

Mount  Hope  is  situated  on  one  of  the  islands  across  the 
bay,  and  was  once  the  home  of  the  Indian  King  Philip 
and  his  tribe.  Probably  in  no  place  in  New-England  can 
be  heard  so  many  legends  of  the  Indian  tribes,  and  no- 
where are  the  names  of  the  celebrated  chiefs  so  well 
perpetuated. 


^^aii^. 


F  the  battle- 
d  tliere  are 
jonsequence. 
s  is  a  beau- 

liles,  is  laid 
ode  Island; 
y,  with  its 
test  railway 

;ho  terminus 

amunication 

a  stream  by 

the  cast,  by 

the  outlet  of 

of  the  city, 

(ower  of  the 

il  in  respect 

With  a  posi- 

its  highest 

le  sea.    The 

las  beautiful 

is  thought 

|e  harbor  is 

the  largest 

across  the 

ling  Philip 

Lgland  can 

5S,  and  no- 

80  well 


SEASIDE    KESORTS. 


THE  CONNECTICUT   SHOrtE. 


19 


STRATFORD,  CT. 

An  early  arrival  by  the  boat  at  New-IIavcn  enabled  us 
to  take  the  first  train  westward,  which  in  half  an  hour  left 
US  at  Stratford.  Tliis  village,  like  nearly  all  the  settle- 
mcLts  in  this  part  of  New-England,  was  settled  early  in 
the  17th  century.  The  green,  or  public  square,  where  the 
church  stands,  dates  back  to  about  1750.  The  quiet  streets, 
and  ancient,  towering  trees,  under  which  wander  the  beaten 
paths,  not  strictly  lined  out,  but  v.'inding  through  the 
green  turf,  impress  the  visitor  with  a  Sunday  feeling, 
and  remind  him  of  English  villages,  till  some  ambitious, 
heavy-corniced  dwelling,  erected  by  some  townsman  come 
home  rich  from  the  city,  banishes  the  idea,  and  recalls  the 
progressiveness  of  this  "  great  country."  Tliere  is  no  inn 
here,  and  the  rule  for  the  wicked  stranger  who  invades 
the  place  is,  that  he  pass  on  or  starve.  Our  errand  carried 
us  to  the  shore,  and  from  thence  can  be  seen,  and  reached 
by  such  as  love  to  go  down  to  the  Sound  in  cockle-shell 
boats,  a  house  of  resort  for  fishermen  and  transient  visitorsj 
kept  by  Mr.  George  Smith— a  place  which  has  the  appear- 
ance of  a  pleasant  sportsman's  retreat.  The  shore  here  is 
flat,  marshy,  and  uninviting,  and  we  being  faint  with  hun 
ger,  besieged  by  a  legion  of  fierce  and  fell  mosquitoes,  ap- 
parently bent  on  avenging  the  wrongs  of  their  Indian 
predecessors,  and  obliged  to  hold  our  only  intercourse  at 
that  eaTly  hour  with  a  deaf  citizen  by  writing  with  chalk 
on  his  door,  beat  a  retreat,  and  took  the  next  train  west- 
ward. 

FAIRFIELD. 

Fairfield,  our  next  stopping-place,  lies  three  miles  west 


II 

r    I 


I    I 


20  SEASIDE  BESORTS. 

of  Bridgeport.    The  busy  streets  and  glaring  piles  of  brick 
wliicli  Bridgeport  boasts,  were  passed  by  without  a  tear. 
But  the  shady  walks,  the  flowers,  the  delightful  dwellings, 
with  their  lawns  and  gardens,  the  air  of  quiet  refinement 
at  Fairfield,  might  well  tempt  the  weary  traveler  to  stop 
and  seek  repose.      He  would  not  bo  disappointed  under 
the  quiet,  hospitable  roof  of  the  Fairfield  House,  where 
mine  host  is  capable  and  kind,  and  the  table  is  certain  to 
please.     Fairfield  has  one  of  the  finest  bathing  beaches  on 
the  Sound.    It  lies  within  half  a  mile  of  the  village,  and 
the  sea-view  from  it  is  limitless  and  ocean-like.     The 
neighboring  country  is  gently  rolling,  liighly  cultivated, 
and  affords  beautiful  drives.    Like  many  New-England 
villages,  peaceful  Fairfield  has  its  history  of  blood  and 
terror.    The  infamous  Tryon  attacked  and  burned  the 
whole  place  in  July,  1779.    We  copy  from  Dr.  Dwight's 
graphic  description  the  following  :    "  While  the  town  was 
in  flames,  a  thunder-storm  overspread  the  heavens,  just  as 
night  came  on.    The  conflagration  of  near  200  houses 
illumined  the  earth,  the  skirts  of  the  cloud,  and  the  waves 
of  the  Sound,  with  a  union  of  gloom  and  grandeur.    The 
sky  speedily  was  hung  with  the  deepest  darkness,  wher- 
ever not  tinged  by  the  melancholy  lustre  of  the  flames.   At 
intervals,  the  lightnings  blazed  with  a  vivid  and  terrible 
splendor.    The  thunder  rolled  along,  and  beneath,  the 
roaring  of  the  fires  filled  up  the  intervals  with  a  deep  and 
hollow  sound.    Add  to  this,  the  sharp  sound  of  muskets 
occasionally  discharged,  the  groans  here  and  there  of  the 
wounded  and  dying,  and  the  shouts  of  triumph ;  then  place 
before  your  eyes  crowds  of  miserable  sufferers,  mingled 
with  bodies  of  militia,  and  from  the  neighboring  hills 
taking  a  farewell  prospect  of  their  property  and  their 
dwellings,  their  happiness  and  their  hopes — and  you  will 


iJLLJZJL^Jg's^^gfti'^"'*' 


SEASIDE   RESORTS. 


21 


fonn  a  just  but  imperfect  picture  of  tlio  burning  of 
Fairfield." 

As  the  present  court-house  and  church  were  built  to 
resemble  the  old  ones  as  nearly  as  possible,  the  village 
green  presents  much  the  same  api^earance  as  in  1779. 

SAVIN  KOCK,  NEAE  NEW-HAVEN. 

Savin  Rock  is  a  popular  summer  resort,  especially  ■with 
New-Haven  people.  There  is  a  pleasant  hotel  called  the 
Rock  House,  accommodating  130  guests.  It  is  four  miles 
southward  of  New-Haven,  and  a  mile  from  the  New-Haven 
Depot  on  the  New- York  and  New-Haven  Railway.  During 
the  summer,  stages  run  hourly  between  New-Haven  and 
the  Rock  House.  Telegraph  station  at  the  house.  Messrs. 
Burgess  &  Renshaw  are  the  proprietors,  to  whom  all 
letters  should  be  addressed  at  New-Haven.  Prices  from 
$15  to  $25  per  week. 

OTJILFOBD. 

We  now  returned  eastward,  the  many  trains  on  the  New- 
Haven  Railway  enabling  us  to  go  at  almost  any  time,  and 
proceeded  by  the  Shore  Line  as  far  as  the  ancient  town  of 
Guilford,  which,  like  Stratford,  dates  from  about  1639, 
and  where  is  or  was,  recently  still  standing  in  good  repair, 
a  stone  house  built  in  1640.  In  this  building  was  solemn- 
ized the  first  marriage  in  the  town,  and  a  sumptuous  wed- 
ding supper  was  provided  of  pork  and  peas 

The  Sea-Side  Hotel  here  is  on  the  shore,  half  a  mile  from 
the  railway.  It  is  a  roomy  and  pleasant  building,  with  a 
noble  piazza  or  porch,  and  a  good  lawn.  The  host  is  fully 
impressed  with  the  gravity  of  his  position  as  commandant 
of  the  central  spot  around  which,  in  his  view,  New-England 
revolves.    The  company  is  agreeable  and  somewhat  fash- 


I     ! 


11 


22 


SEASIDE   KESORTS. 


ionablo,  and  doubtless  slicds  additional  lustra  upon  mino 
host,  thus  enhancing  the  splendor  of  his  naturally  lofty 
position.  The  country  here  is  flat  and  uninteresting,  and 
the  bathing  inconvenient,  being  upon  a  stony  and  muddy 
bottom. 

The  Guilford  Point  House  is  kept  by  the  veteran  Capt. 
Hunt.  Accommodations  for  100  guests,  from  June  20th  to 
September  20th.  Telegraph  oflice  at  the  railway  station, 
half  a  mile  distant.  Trains  from  New-IIaven  at  7.30  and 
11.30  A.M.,  and  4  and  7  r.M.  Hotel  terms,  $3  per  day,  $18 
per  week.  Fine  fishing,  sailing,  driving,  and  a  host  of 
pretty  girls,  combine  to  make  the  place  irresistible.  If  you 
doubt  it,  skeptic,  start  bo?dly  forth  some  Saturday  after- 
noon, as  did  your  humble  servant,  and  return  a  champion 
of  ito  excellences. 

There  was,  till  within  a  few  years,  a  fine  hotel  at  Sa- 
chem's Head  in  this  town,  which  was  destroyed  by  fire. 
The  name  was  derived  from  the  execution  by  the  cele- 
brated IJncas  of  a  captive  Pequot  chiet,  whose  head  was 
cut  off  and  placed  in  the  crotch  of  a  large  oak  here,  where 
the  skull  remained  for  many  years. 

BRANFORD  AND  INDIAN  POINT. 

We  next  took  a  return  train  to  Branford,  which  is  a 
centre  from  which  at  least  half  a  dozen  different  resorts 
may  be  visited.  There  is  the  Double  Beach  House  with 
its  magnificent  old  oak,  known  for  half  a  century  back  as 
one  of  the  finest  trees  in  this  vicinity,  and  its  pretty  little 
isthmus  of  sand,  washed  on  both  sides  by  the  clear  waters, 
and  leading  to  a  picturesque  rocky  and  shady  knoll,  whence 
a  broad  and  lovely  view  of  the  sail-dotted  Sound  is  to  be 
had,  tempting  you  to  linger  there  for  hours. 

The  Double  Beach  House,  F.  B.  Linsley,  proprietor,  is 


( s\ 


SEASIDE   PwESO^wTS. 


23 


TO  upon  mino 
[iturally  lofty 
;crestinp,  and 
y  and  muddy- 
veteran  Capt. 
Juno  20tli  to 
Iway  station, 
n.  at  7.30  and 
per  day,  $18 
id  a  host  of 
tible.    If  you 
turday  after- 
i  a  champion 

hotel  at  Sa- 
yed  by  fire, 
by  the  cele- 
le  head  was 
here,  where 


which  is  a 
pent  resorts 
[ouse  with 
iry  back  as 
|)retty  little 
3ar  waters, 
^11,  whence 
id  is  to  be 

)prietor,  is 


1 

I 


quite  near  the  Branford  Point  House,  and  is  a  very  ^ocd 
point  for  lovers  of  fishinrr.  It  has  accommodations  for 
100  guests,  and  is  open  from  January  to  the  1st  of  Oc- 
tober. The  post-oifico  address  is  Branford,  Ct.  This  is 
not  one  of  the  hip^h-priced  houses.  Terms,  $3  per  day, 
$17.50  per  wci*k.  S[)lendid  place  for  youn*?  men  fond  of 
yachting  and  fishing.  Route,  New- York  and  New-IIaven, 
and  New-Haven  and  New-London  Railways. 

There  is  the  Monteveso,  a  new  hotel  standing  on  the 
shore,  with  a  fine  beach  running  immediately  in  frojit,  and 
which  is,  we  believe,  as  airy  and  well-kept  a  house  as  might 
be  wished,  though  it  has  the  draw-back  of  being  destitute 
of  shade-trees.  There  is  Pino  Orchard,  noted  for  the  excel- 
lence with  which  the  Sheltons  serve  up  their  sea  food,  and 
which  is  a  quiet  little  house,  usually  occupied  for  the  sea- 
son by  permanent  boarders.  There  are  tho  small  hotels 
at  Stony  Creek,  to  be  reached  also  more  easily  from  tho 
station  of  that  name,  and  which  are  favorite  resorts  for  tho 
people  from  inland  Connecticut.  Tho  pleasant  house  kept 
by  N.  C.  Frink,  at  Indian  Point,  deserves  more  than  passing 
notice.  Though  his  buildings  and  rooms  are  small,  his 
activity  and  efforts  to  make  his  guests  enjoy  themselves 
are  unbounded.  This  is  the  best  i^lace  to  go  to  for  a  few 
days  of  rowing  or  sailing  among  the  numerous  picturesque 
islands  which  form  the  groups  laid  down  as  the  Thim- 
bles, and  which  afford  a  specimen  of  scenery  unique  in 
this  part  of  the  country  so  far  as  I  know.  In  one  of  these 
is  a  secure  harbor,  (iuite  concealed  by  high  rocks  and  trees 
from  the  view  of  any  one  passing  ahmg  the  Sound,  and 
large  enough  for  several  small  vessels  to  lie  in.  It  was  a 
resort  of  Kidd,  the  pirate,  who  lay  there  ready  to  pounce 
upon  the  unsuspecting  vessels  "as  they  sailed,  as  they 
sailed,"  and  whither,  when  pursued,  he  could  retreat,  and 


24 


SEASIDE   RESORTS. 


suddenly  disappear  from  his  enemy  as  if  swallowed  up  l)y 
the  waves.  Like  all  of  Kidd's  haunts,  the  islan  'g  have 
their  legends  of  buried  treasure  anionjj  the  rocks.  They 
ore  now  much  frequented  by  lovers  of  black-fishing  and 
duck-shooting',  and  the  bay  of  Stony  Creek  has  long  been 
famous  for  its  exceedingly  fine  oysters  and  other  shell-fish, 
of  which  the  guests  of  Mr.  Frink  Avill  have  abundant  op- 
portunity to  judge.  Deponent  can  speak  with  knowledge 
of  the  sweetness  of  the  small  lobsters,  and  the  magnificent 
grandeur  of  the  great  Stony  Creek  oysters.  A  word  to  the 
wise,  etc. 

Finally,  let  us  introduce  the  "  forlorn  and  weary  brother  " 
for  whom  these  jottings  are  intended,  to  the  spot  of  all  oth- 
ers where  he  will  find  panacea  for  all  his  ills.  At  the  head 
of  the  rocky-shored  and  island-sprinkled  bay  of  Branford, 
ho  who  is  lucky  enough  to  get  his  first  view  from  the  wa- 
ter will  observe  a  long,  irregular  row  of  white  buildings, 
sharply  relieved  against  a  background  of  hills  and  trees. 
As  he  approaches,  he  will  see  a  large  covered  saloon  or 
pavilion,  centrally  placed  in  the  building,  open  on  both 
sides  to  give  easy  passage  to  the  ever  fresh  sea  breeze,  and 
tenanted  by  provokingly  cool  and  comfortable-looking  per- 
sonages. Hastening  to  land,  ho  will  perceive  numerous 
sa.  .-boats  of  all  sizes,  kept  by  sundry  bold  if  not  ancient 
mariners,  for  the  amusement  of  the  visitors.  A  billiard- 
room,  a  bowling-alley,  a  croquet-ground,  a  fine  grove,  lawn, 
and  flower-garden,  and,  not  least  of  all,  a  kitchen- garden, 
"which  promises  varied  and  abundant  provender  enough 
for  the  most  rigid  vegetarian,  next  meet  his  gaze,  and 
cause  his  features  to  relax  from  the  knitted  frown  of  obser- 
vation to  the  complacent  smoothness  of  satisfaction.  As 
he  joins  the  group  of  cool  and  happy  ones  in  the  open 
saloon,  he  is  aware  of  a  magnificent  view  of  Branford  Har- 


^laH^ 


"  ««*  "r  "ipni,!"  ••  " 


SEASIDE    RESORTS. 


25 


1  lowed  lip  l)y 
islan  's  Imvo 
rocks.  Tlicy 
i-fishin^  and 
as  long  been 
lor  shell-fish, 
ibundant  op. 
I  knowledge 
magnificent 
.  word  to  tliG 

iiy  brother  " 

ot  of  all  oth- 

At  the  head 

of  Branford, 

rom  the  wa- 

3  buildings, 

and  trees. 

saloon  or 

en  on  both 

Drceze,  and 

poking  per- 

numerous 

lot  ancient 

A  billiard- 

ove,  lawn, 

en-garden, 

r  enough 

gaze,  and 

1  of  obser- 

ition.    As 

the  open 

ford  Har- 


i 


bor,  boand(Hl  by  low,  wooded  hills,  spocked  with  rocky 
islets,  and  stretching  out  beyond  into  the  ocean-like  ex- 
pause  of  the  blue,  glittering  Sound.  White  sails  flit  across 
the  rippled  surface,  and  far  oft*  appear  and  vanish,  as  if  seek- 
ing the  isles  of  the  blest.  The  breeze  freshens,  the  S(^a 
darkens,  ever-changing  cloud-shapes  vary  and  adorn  the 
Bky,  and  the  declining  sun  begins  to  cast  a  roseate  splendor 
over  the  water,  like  the  bloom  of  the  gardens  of  P.'Viu  iso. 
Move  not,  until  he  sinks  into  darkness,  and  moonlight  sil- 
vers all  the  sea !  The  flood  of  light  is  thrown  in  a  broad 
pathway  far  out  upon  the  watery  waste — and  one  weird- 
looking  sail  of  some  homeward-bound  vessel  glides  through 
it  like  a  ghost.  You  watch  it  with  half-unconscious  inter- 
est ;  it  seems  to  lead  and  beckon  you  into  a  dreamy  reverie, 
until,  when  you  lose  it  in  the  distance,  you  turn  away  with 
a  sigh  that  such  moments  come  but  seldom  in  life,  or  rather 
that  we  so  seldom  are  in  tone  to  appreciate  the  beauty  and 
suggestiveness  which  Nature  is  continually  flinging  broad- 
cast before  us. 

On  this  charming  spot  is  the  Branford  Point  House,  kept 
by  Mr.  King,  so  long  and  well  known  to  the  citizens  of 
New-Haven  as  an  accomplished  and  attentive  landlord. 
For  the  past  two  years  he  has  been  gradually  improving 
and  embellishing  this  place,  until  it  is  now  one  of  the 
pleasantest  retreats  on  the  coast,  and  has  gained  a  reputa- 
tion which,  as  is  testified  by  his  need  of  constant  enlarge- 
ment, is  advancing  year  by  year.  Here  we  ended  our  day 
of  wandering,  somewhat  distracted  by  the  diverse  attrac- 
tions before  us,  but  in  a  mood  fully  appreciative  of  them 
all,  and  can  sincerely  recommend  those  who  delight  in 
boating,  bathing,  sea-views,  shady  walks,  or  a  cool  loung- 
ing spot  while  the  dog-star  rules,  to  follow  our  example. 

The  Branford  Point  House  is  8  miles  from  New-Haven, 


20 


SEARTUE   EESOrwTS. 


cast  of  the  city,  and  is  reached  by  cars  on  the  New-London 
and  New-Haven  Railway,  which  runs  within  a  mile  of  the 
hotel,  or  by  stages  from  New-Haven.  It  will  accommo- 
date 200  guests,  and  has  long  been  a  favorite  resort 
with  persons  residing  in  all  parts  of  the  country.  Prifcos, 
per  week,  $12  to  $25.  The  post-office  address  is  Branford, 
at  which  place  there  is  also  a  telegraph  station.  Trains 
leave  New-Haven  at  6.40,  10.5j,  3.15,  G.05  and  11.15.  Ex- 
cclleiit  fishing  and  boating.     Qood  i)lace  for  families. 


1  i 


INDIAN  NECK. 

This  is  a  cozy  little  resort,  5  miles  from  Branford  Station. 
There  are  several  pleasant  boarding-houses,  but  no  hotel. 
Accommodations  for  50  guests  at  the  Indian  Neck  House. 
A  charming  place  for  bathing  and  boating,  and  very  quiet. 
Families  will  find  it  a  desirable  resort.  Address  Benjamin 
E.  Goodrich,  Indian  Neck,  Branford,  Ct.  Price,  $10  per 
week. 

East-Lyme,  or  "Niantic."  This  pretty  village,  gene- 
rally known  as  NiantiCy  is  delightfully  situated  in  full 
view  of  the  Sound,  on  Niantic  Bay,  at  the  mouth  of  Ne- 
hantic  (or  Niantic)  River.  A  long,  narrow  peninsula,  upon 
which  the  railway  is  constructed,  lies  between  the  latter 
and  the  former,  which  are  united  by  a  narrow  channel, 
spanned  by  the  railway  bridge.  It  is  a  popular  place  of 
summer  seaside  resort,  for  fishing,  bathing,  etc. 


NEW-LONDON. 

New-London  is  the  favorite  among  all  the  summer  re- 
sorts on  the  Sound,  its  nearness  to  Providence,  Hartford, 
New-Haven,  Boston,  and  New- York,  rendering  it  very  ac- 
cessible.   Tlie  plying  of  the  steamers  between  here  and 


vf^samrnmsmmm 


SEASIDE   EESORT^. 


27 


'  ^^ew-London 
a  mile  of  tlie 
ill  accommo- 
vorite   resort 
itry.    Prices, 
I  is  Branford, 
ion.    Trains 
11.15.    Ex- 
milies. 


brd  Station. 
It  no  hotel, 
eck  House, 
very  quiet. 
3  Benjamin 
e,  $10  per 

ige,  gene- 
id  in  full 
ith  of  JS'e- 
sula,  upon 
■lie  latter 
channel, 
place  of 


imer  re- 
artford, 
I'ery  ac- 
re and 


the  metropolis,  in  connection  with  the  railway  to  all  points 
in  and  out  of  New-England,  also  aid  to  popularize  New- 
London. 

A  Stagnant  Town. — *' New-London,"  writes  Junius 
Browne, "  is  a  stagnant  old  town  that  imagines  it  has  three 
or  four  or  five  thousand  inhabitants,  but  which  does  not 
seem  to  have  more  than  half  as  many.  Nothing  moves 
there  except  the  fish  and  the  boats  in  the  harbor.  The 
natives,  who  loiter  around  corner  groceries  and  fish -stalls, 
live  so  somnolently  that,  when  any  thing  happens,  they 
pinch  themselves  to  determine  if  they  are  awake.  The 
restlessness  of  the  American  character  does  not  belong  to 
them.  Believing  they  have  done  their  work  in  being 
born,  they  leave  affairs  to  the  guidance  o-f  Clotlio  and 
her  sisters.  Catching  fish  and  eating  them  comprehend 
the  whole  of  existence ;  and  sitting  in  the  shade  and  smok- 
ing, the  highest  luxuries  they  long  for. 

"  We  have  an  esoteric  conviction  that  New-London  was 
one  of  the  antediluvian  villages,  which  was  at  the  time  of 
the  Cataclysm  too  lazy  to  drown,  and  consequently  floated 
off  to  the  far  West,  and,  after  centuries  of  aqueous  con- 
tinuance, lodged  against  a  point  of  Connecticut,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Thames  -River,  and  has  remained  there  ever 
since." 

Patronage  of  the  Hotel. — The  Pequot,  with  its  8 
cottages,  will  accommodate  about  500  persons,  and  has 
generally  300  within  its  boundaries.  A  number  of  fami- 
lies are  usually  here  from  New- York.  The  price  of  board 
at  the  Pequot  is  $5  per  day,  which  is  very  willingly  paid, 
with  liberal  outlays  for  "  extras,"  by  those  who  think  they 
obtain  "  exclusivencss,"  and  value  it  as  the  immediate 
jewel  of  their  serenely  complacent  souls. 

The  other  houses  of  summer  resort  are  the  Ocean,  on 


28 


SEASIDE  RESORTS. 


tlie  otiier  side  of  tlie  harbor,  and  Thompson's,  further  up 
the  river,  in  Groton.  They  are  said  to  be  well  patronized, 
but  not  by  New-Yorkers.  They  make  no  such  pretension 
to  fashion  as  the  Pequot,  which  entirely  ignores  their  ex- 
istence. 

The  villages  and  cottages  about  New-London  are  very 
beautiful,  but  would  appear  better  if  they  had  less  the 
air  of  being  starched  every  morning  and  ironed  out  every 
night.  Several  on  the  Harbor  road  we  have  never  seen 
surpassed  for  elaborate  completeness  and  artificial  pre- 
cision. Men  are  employed  to  roll  the  grass  and  gravel- 
walks  constantly,  place  every  pebble  in  its  place,  and  clip 
every  green  blade  which,  after  microscopic  inspection,  is 
one  hundredth  of  an  inch  above  its  fellow. 

Edwin  Booth,  William  Stuart,  and  other  New-Yorkers 
have  cottages  here. 


BOCKY  POINT. 

The  Point  is  pleasant  and  cool-looking,  and  the  opportu- 
nities for  bathing  and  fishing  are  excellent.  A  number  of 
people  from  New-England,  New- York  State,  and  the  West, 
gather  here  to  spend  the  summer,  prefer  -r  :» the  quiet  and 
informality,  the  grateful  insouciance  ui'  .  i^;  Point,  to  the 
greater  gayety,  the  fashionable  display,  and  the  rigid 
social  exactions  of  Newport  and  Saratoga. 

STONINGTON 

is  of  course  not  changed.  It  looks  exactly  as  it  did  twenty 
years  ago.  Indeed,  no  one  would  believe  the  staid  inha- 
bitants of  the  place  had  moved  in  that  time.  They  might 
have  slept,  for  all  they  have  done  in  developing  or  improv- 


mn^vM 


SEASIDE   RESORTS. 


29 


n's,  further  up 
ell  patronized, 
ich  pretension 
Lores  their  ex- 

idon  are  very 
liad  less  the 
led  out  every 
e  never  seen 
irtificial  pre- 
and  gravel- 
ice,  and  clip 
nspection,  is 

rew-Yorkers 


le  opportu- 
number  of 
the  West, 
quiet  and 
int,  to  the 
the  rigid 


d  twenty 
lid  inha- 
7  might 
improv- 


ing their  old-fashioned  village.  The  glory  of  Stonington 
is  in  the  past.  It  looks  backward  for  its  fame,  and  to  the 
present  and  all  the  future  for  its  drowsy  content.  The 
motto  of  Metternich,  Quieta  non  mover e,  is  adopted  here, 
and  ^ever  will  be  altered. 

Stonington  was  settled  in  16G0,  or  thereabout,  and  forty 
or  fifty  years  ago  was  an  important  commercial  and  trad- 
ing point.  Its  whaling  interests  were  next  to  those  of 
Newport,  and  for  a  long  while  it  enjoyed  a  monopoly  of 
sealing.  Men  now  living  went  to  the  Shetlands  on  threa 
years'  voyages,  in  vessels  of  40  or  50  tons. 

Its  present  population  is  less  than  4000,  augmented 
by  a  few  hundreds  every  summer,  and  not  likely  to  in- 
crease during  the  present  century.  There  is  a  good  deal 
of  private  wealth  here,  mostly  in  the  hands  o'f  retired 
whale  and  seal-men ;  and  the  town  can  boast  of  a  number 
of  handsome  residences.  Stonington  has,  like  most  New- 
England  villages,  white,  gable-ended,  green-shuttered, 
cool-piazzaed  houses,  with  shrubbery  and  pleasant  grounds 
about  them,  relieved  by  small,  time-worn  frame  tenements, 
Buffering  from  architectural  marasmus. 

The  hotels  are  three,  the  Wadawanuck,  Tremont,  and 
Steamboat  House,  though  the  last  two  are  very  small,  and 
patronized  only  by  transient  people.  The  Wadawanuck 
is  the  only  hotel  worthy  the  name ;  is  comfortable  and 
pleasantly  situated,  occupying  an  entire  square  with  its 
inclosing  grounds,  which  are  handsomely  laid  out.  Tho 
piazzas  are  broad,  the  table  is  very  good,  and  the  chambers 
are  plain,  but  neat  and  airy. 

The  Wadawanuck  accommodates  about  150  persons 
with  entire  convenience,  but  can  increase  the  number  to 
200  if  necessary.  The  price  of  board  is  $3.50  per  day,  and 
tho  patrons  of  the  hotel  are  mostly  families  who  come  hero 


f 


A7V.;,t>  --r^y    l^-JJfcM' 


4     :l 


30 


SEASIDE  EESOlfiTS. 


None  Of  the  features  of  a  felLoir 
are  visible  here.    Those  who  vMo  •  ^''^'"^"g-Place  life 

to  &d  their  pleasures  in  each  If       7,°"  '"^^  "-V'^^tei 
«!  riding,  fislUng,  and  talkW  ' '"''  '''"^''-  ^««f»<="on 

Captain  R    F   t 

Warren-Stanton,  X^-Si  cS'  ^.^''"''^^^PWa. 
liams,  and  Eph«.in»  P.  William  gt^Tr  ^'"^''  ^-  ^^^1" 
^nie  residences  in  Stonington  ''°''  ^'^^'^  I"^d- 

IfABBAGAWSETT  PffiH,  B.  I 

Narragansett   Pier   in  e„  ^i  t-. 

Of  the  sea-shore  at  thrnfoTh  JT *°"'  ^^  ''  ^'*-*«^ 
about  one  hour's  sail  fromTwport  TT''"  ^''^'  """i 
-  watering-place  for  over  twen7y:l'"^  ''^^"  ''»--  - 

At  first  the  patronage  was  liJuT 
■nodations,  there  being  at  Ztf'  "^  ^'"^  '^^  «<=<=o«- 
tog-house,  Benjamin  lldwe n  '"*  °°''  ^'^^''^^  ^o-^^' 

became  more  gineralirtnlwn  07"'*°'-     ^'  "^  P'"<=e 
tion  to  the  business  wWchT  "  ^""""^  ""'^  ^ttea- 

«  few  years.    At  prlluw      ''^"'^  ^""'^''^^^  within 
tog-houses,  each  aceommXlT"' ^'^'^  ^""^  '^"-'I- 
besides   a   number   of  c^l"?   T,''  *"  '"^  ^"««t«. 
femilies.    A  new  hotel  isTn^       ^^""^   *«   ^-^"ted    by 
Matthewson  &  Vrn-it^rnlT'  """""  ""'  ^^^^ 
't  the  coming  season     The  d        ^'""  '"*'""''"  *°  °Pen 
«tiU  exceeds  the  supply  L  fa'ran     '""  ''<=— "''ations 
"^d  many  have  purch^^d  iir'^'^ ''  '""^  ^''"^'^  "^""wn, 
—er  residences.    aZJZ^:^:^'' '"  ^^^'='»'- 
t-oned  a  splendid  beach  for  batll  T  "'^  ^'  '^<^^- 


SEASIDE   RESORTS. 


31 


water  deepens  gradually,  which,  with  an  absence  of  strong 
currents,  renders  it  perfectly  safe.  Excellent  fishing  from 
rocks  or  boats,  while  the  adjacent  country  affords  many 
pleasant  drives  and  rambles.  Narragansett  Pier  Post-OfRco 
has  recently  been  established,  at  which  mails  are  received 
twice  daily.  Any  of  the  hotels  are  within  twenty  min- 
utes' walk  of  the  beach.  Telegraph  station  at  Kingston 
Depot.  It  is  accessible  from  New- York  by  steamboat 
(from  Pier  No.  34,  North  river)  to  Stonington,  thence  by 
gjtonington  Railway  to  Kingston,  or  by  the  "  Shore  Line" 
Railway,  (from  corner  Twenty-seventh  street  and  Fourth 
avenue,)  stopping  at  Kingston.  From  Boston  there  are 
several  trains  daily,  via  Providence.  Stages  connect  at 
Kingston  with  every  train.  The  price  of  board  for  the 
coming  season  will  be  from  $13  to  $15  per  week  for  single 
rooms,  and  from  $25  to  $30  per  week  for  double  rooms, 
according  to  size  and  number  of  occupants. 


HOTELS. 


NAME  OF  PROP'r. 

No. 

Prices  for  Rooms 

NAME  OF  UOUSK. 

WHKN  OPEN. 

80 

Single 

Double. 

Harlwen     House 

Benj.  Iladwen.., 

$15  00 

$25to$30 

In  June. 

Narragansett  " 

Esbon  Taylor..,. 

60 

15  00 

25  00 

July  to  October. 

Revere            " 

Jas.  II.  Rodman. 

55 

15  00 

24  00 

June  15  to  Oct.  15 

Whaley           " 

Wra.  E.  Whaley.. 

50 

July  to  Oct. 

Sea  View         " 

Wm.  J.  Browning 

50 

12  50 

25  00 

June  to  Oct. 

Atlantic           " 

Abijah  Browning 

80 

15  00 

25  00 

June  to  Oct. 

Mettatoxet      " 

John  H.  Caswell 

65 

16  00 

25  OJ 

June  to  Oct. 

Atwood            " 

Joshua  C.  Tucker 

175 

June. 

Mansion          " 

W.  G.  Caswell. . . 

50 

15  00 

June  to  Oct. 

Applications  to  any  of  the  above-named  proprietors 
should  be  addressed  to  Narragansett  Pier  Post- Office, 
Washington  county,  R.  I. 


32 


SEASIDE    EESORTS. 


n 


EAST-^AMFTON,  LONG  ISLAND. 

Of  places  which  the  blase  tourist  or  the  invalid  covets  most ; 
where  there  are  no  hotels  nor  hops ;  to  which  Mr.  Potiphar 
doesn't  find  "  all  the  parvenus  going,"  and  consequently 
doesn't  rush  himself;  where  there  are  tombstones  two 
hundred  years  old,  and  a  similar  quaintness  pervading 
every  thing  ;  where  nobody  knows  enough  to  keep  a  hotel, 
but  every  body  will  entertain  "company,"  (at  $10  per 
week ;)  of  such  places  East-Hampton,  on  the  Long  Island 
coast,  is  one.  There  is  capital  surf-bathing  at  fifteen 
minutes'  distance  from  the  town.  The  means  of  access 
are  by  steamboat  River  Queen,  Peck  Slip,  to  Sag  Harbor, 
L.  I.,  thence  by  stage  six  or  seven  miles  over  a  j^leasant 
road ;  or  by  th§  Long  Island  Railway,  from  foot  of  Atlantic 
street,  Brooklyn. 

PATCHOGTTE,  L.  I. 

Long  Branch  in  its  success,  and  Newport  in  its  desola- 
tion, have  had  their  share  of  attention;  but,  Patchog.  3, 
thy  praises  at  last  will  be  sung.  Go  to  the  Long  Island 
depot,  and  procure  a  ticket  for  Medford,  where  do  you  find 
the  stage  which  will  take  you  thither,  4  miles,  for  40 
cents.  There  are  two  lines ;  but  ask  for  Sill's  stage.  Sill 
is  huge ;  Sill  weighs  two  hundred  and  fifty  avoirdupois. 
When  he  gets  upon  his  seat,  it  bends — it  cracks !  But  he 
is  clever,  and  it  is  a  pleasure  to  ride  in  a  comfortable  stage. 
The  ride  to  Patchogue  is  a  pleasant  one,  through  the 
woods  all  the  way.  There  are  two  or  three  pretty  good 
hotels  in  the  place ;  but  if  you  can  get  in,  go  to  Mrs. 
Willett's.  When  you  see  her,  you  will  say  "Grandmo- 
ther" in  spite  of  yourself.  Her  house  is  a  farm-house, 
large  and  roomy,  with  nice,  old-fashioned  bedsteads,  and 


MMIIi 


■asm 


SEASIDE   RESORTS. 


83 


sucli  linen  as  you  will  find  only  in  New-Enc^lantl  and  Pat- 
cliogue.  But  the  food !  Such  delicious  coffee  and  cream— 
Buch  frcfsh  vegetables !  Such  fresh  fish — as  blue-fi^h  and 
other  members  of  the  finny  tribe — such  clam  fritters !  and 
so  might  we  go  on  ad  infinitum.  But  go  and  eat  for  your- 
selves, and  remember  us  who  told  you  the  good  news. 

Patchogue  has  about  3000  inhabitants.  It  has  the  look 
of  a  Xew-England  village,  and  the  people  are  like  New- 
England  people.  This  charming  little  village  is  about 
three  quarters  of  a  mile  from  the  water.  But  you  have 
no  need  that  wo  should  tell  you  of  the  bay  which  runs 
from  one  end  of  Long  Island  to  the  other.  The  bay  is 
about  four  miles  wide,  and  wlien  you  cross  the  sand-bar, 
whion  is,  perhaps,  200  yards  across,  you  come  to  the  ocean. 

Go  down  about  the  middle  of  August  and  Captain  Dan 
will  take  you  out  blue-fishing.  That's  fun,  you  know.  As 
you  know,  Mrs.  Oakes  Smith,  the  distinguished  writer, 
lives  here,  and  is  much  respected  and  liked. 

LA  TOURETTE  HOUSE,  BERGEN  POINT. 

Within  half  an  hour's  distance  of  the  Empire  City  lies 
a  charming  little  watering-place,  Bergen  Point,  to  wit, 
which  is  unknown  and  undreamt-of  by  the  general  throng 
of  i)leasure-seekers,  and  which  consequently  may  be  said 
to  "waste  its  sweetness  on  the  desert  air."  The  place  has 
many  advantages  of  scenery  and  location  to  recommend  it, 
besides  its  sea-side  situation.  It  is  buried  in  the  pictu- 
resque woods  of  New-Jersey,  is  easy  of  access,  and  has 
such  genial,  invigorating  air,  that  it  is  a  wonder  it  has  re- 
mained so  long  unknown,  and,  like  the  happy  valley  of 
Rasselas,  enjoyed  only  by  a  favored  few.  The  ride  down 
by  road,  either  by  the  New-Jersey  Central  Railway,  or  the 
"  dummy  engine,"  or  again  by  the  best  means  of  all,  a  fast 


I 


■ 
1. 


i.V 


34 


SEASIDE   RESORTS. 


team,  propares  one  for  tlio  thorough  quietness  and  seclu- 
sion of  the  Point.  The  plank-road  alonof  'tlio  sea-shore 
is  the  most  picturesque  route  of  all.  It  winds  all  along 
the  many  curvatures  of  tlie  Jersey  shore ;  here  it  goes 
awhile  inland ;  again  it  skirts  the  marshy  flats ;  and  then 
again  it  runs  close  hy  the  water,  and  one  is  enabled  to 
have  a  delightful  view  of  the  Bay  of  New- York  and  the 
wood-crowned  steeps  of  Staten  Island. 

Tlia  best  charm  of  Bergen  Point,  however,  is  its  hotel, 
which  is  unlike  most  of  the  country  shanties  usually  digni- 
fied with  that  title.  No  exorbitant  charges  frighten  the 
visitor  away  after  he  has  jjerused  that  interesting  docu- 
ment, his  first  week's  bill ;  and  the  landlord,  Dr.  Armena, 
understands  the  difficult  art  of  playing  "mine  host "  with 
ease  and  propriety.  La  Tourette  House,  the  hotel  mansion, 
is  a  fine,  rambling  structure,  situated  at  the  very  apex  of 
the  Point,  and  looking  down  on  the  Kill  Van  Kidl  and 
over  Staten  Island.  It  is  surrounded  with  trees,  and  stands 
in  its  own  grounds  like  a. private  gentleman's  residence. 
The  hotel  makes  up  300  beds,  and  has  accommodation  for 
nearly  600  visitors,  including  the  scenic  lot,  "  men,  women, 
and  children,"  although  the  ladies  ought,  in  deference,  to 
be  placed  first.  This  spot  is  so  retired  and  shut  out  from 
the  world  that  one  is  forcibly  reminded  of  Horace's  praise 
of  a  country  life,  and  is  irresistibly  led  to  the  conclusion 
that  here  only  can  one  enjoy  that  charmed  existence — 
8oUcitm  jucunda  oUivia  vitm — "  a  sweet  forgetfulness  of  the 
ills  of  life."  Bergen  Point  can  be  reached  by  water  as 
well  as  by  land,  to  wit :  Two  boats,  the  Magenta,  from 
the  foot  of  Barclay  street,  and  the  Red  Jacket,  from  Liber- 
ty street,  run  hither  twice  a  day,  and  only  occupy  half  an 
hour  in  conveying  the  country-seeking  Manhattanese  to 
this  blissful  oasis  of  comfort  and  retirement. 


*;.^^-,.L^ 


aavMwtm 


id  seclu- 
»ea-sliore 
11  along 
it  <]foes 
ind  then 
abled  to 
and  the 

ts  hotel, 

[y  digni- 

iten  the 

ig  docii- 

Vrmena, 

t "  with 

iiansion, 

apex  of 

all  and 

I  stands 

idence. 

Ition  for 

►vomen, 

nee,  to 

t  from 

];)raiso 

elusion 

mce — 

of  tho 

liter  as 

from 

iiber- 

ilf  an 

)se  to 


SEASIDE  RESORTS. 


STATEN  ISLAND 


35 


Is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  spots,  with  its  sea-girt  shores, 
hills,  splendid  villas  and  cottages,  to  visit  in  this  region. 
In  natural  beauties  it  strongly  resembles  the  famed  Isle  of 
Wight,  the  favorite  summer  residence  of  the  Queen  of  Eng- 
land. The  island  is  only  a  few  miles  from  the  city,  and 
reached  every  hour  by  steamers,  its  most  distant  landing 
requiring  not  much  over  GO  minutes. 

The  Quarantine  boats  start  from  the  foot  of  the  Battery, 
commencing  as  early  as  sunrise,  making  several  landings  on 
the  east  side  of  the  island.  These  all  connect  with  a  shore 
horse-railway,  running  down  to  the  harrows,  where  has 
been  recently  built  perhaps  the  most  admirable  United 
States  fort  on  the  coast,  protecting  the  lower  and  upper 
bay  and  its  main  channel.  Very  few  finer  prospects  of 
land  and  ocean  can  be  found  in  any  region  finer  than 
from  this  high  bluflT.  There  are  located  along  the  banks 
some  of  the  finest  country  residences  of  New- York  citi- 
zens, the  A  spin  walls  foremost.  Private  and  public  board- 
ing-houses are  to  be  found,  with  churches  and  good  schools. 
At  the  middle  (Quarantine)  landing  commences  the  Staten 
Island  Railway,  running  through  its  whole  distance  of  12 
or  14  miles  to  the  terminus  opposite  Perth- Amboy,  with 
which  it  connects,  by  a  new  steamboat,  in  a  few  minutes. 
This  road  passes  through  the  most  cultivated  farming 
region  of  the  island,  on  the  south  side,  keeping  the  mag- 
nifi,cent  Lower  Bay  in  view  nearly  all  the  time,  and  distant 
Sandy  Hook  with  its  lights,  and  the  bold  hills  of  Mon- 
mouth. Tottenville,  at  the  end  of  the  road,  is  a  very 
beautiful,  growing  village,  with  fine  fishing,  oysters,  and 
bathing.  Fare,  25  cents  each  way.  We  know  of  no  more 
pleasant  trip  than  this.  To  extend  it  a  little,  cross  over 
to  Amboy  and  take  the  railway  back  to  the  city,  passing 


i,f': 


30 


SEASIDE   RESORTS. 


I  II 


*      i\\ 

\  i 


1 1 


I 


ii    I 


tlironnrli  Woodbridgo,  "Railway,  Elizabeth,  and  Jersey  City, 
in  a  coiiplo  of  liourH.  From  Tottenville,  once  or  twice  a 
day,  steamboats  also  run  to  New- York,  and  at  times  con- 
nect with  Keyport,  N.  J.  Near  Tottenville  stands  the  old 
Billop  House,  well  worth  a  visit.  It  is  a  hi<?h,  prominent 
stone  edifice,  now  very  venerable.  Its  associations  arc 
very  interesting.  Col.  Billop  was  the  British  militia  officer 
of  the  island  during  the  Revolution,  and  in  this  house,  after 
the  unfortunate  battle  on  Long  Island,  Lord  Howe  met  a 
deputation  from  Congress,  to  consult  about  the  national 
quarrel.  Franklin  and  Rutledge  were  among  them.  Hero 
they  met,  did  nothing  but  talk,  and  dismissed.  The  old 
mansion  has  remained  unaltered  ever  since — a  privilege 
■which  all  old  famed  houses  can  not  boast. 

The  ferry-boats  to  the  north  shore  of  the  island  leave 
hourly,  from  the  foot  of  Dey  street,  by  steamers  Huguenot, 
Thomas  Hunt,  and  Pomona ;  fare,  13  cents  ;  passage  within 
the  hour.  The  landings  are,  New-Brighton,  Snug  Harbor, 
Factoryville,  Port  Richmond,  and  Mariner's  Harbor,  each  a 
mile  or  two  from  its  neighbor.  For  a  short  sail  over  the 
fine  bay  and  its  unrivaled  scenery,  no  trip  is  easier  made 
or  more  charming,  and  thousands  enjoy  it.  New-Brighton 
is  a  popular  spot,  with  its  fine  houses  and  extensive  hotels, 
and  these  are  immensely  patronized.  The  horse-railway 
is  now  being  finished,  connecting  the  Narrows  with  a  point 
opposite  Elizabeth  Port,  N.  J.,  and  following  the  winding 
shore  of  this  lovely  island  the  whole  way. 

The  Sailors'  Snug  Harbor  is  a  pleasant  walk  from  New- 
Brighton,  and  one  of  the  noblest  institutions  of  any  land. 
There  are  some  300  old  seamen,  supported  for  life,  if  they 
wish,  from  the  liberal  legacy  of  a  Scotchman  who  died  years 
ago  in  New- York  City.  The  buildings  and  grounds,  embrac- 
ing 40  acres,  have  been  expensively  improved.    The  farthest 


I  \ 


■  ;_  J--  ■'r't^'!y'g:!'^?^''?¥ifHiiiiiiii  "  -iiiffnrr"~-i 


■'     'pi 

i  M 


9 


H  -!,! ' 


ii' 


Arched  Eocks,  Lake  Superior. 


i 


I     • 


I    ••    .  f         > 


SEASIDE   KESOrwTS. 


37 


lan(lin«jr  on  tlio  north  yido  of  tlu/  island  is  nt  the  iionor  Pier, 
not  fur  from  ]-]lizabotli  Port,  and  op[)()sit«  Xtnvark  Bay  and 
its  lipfht-liouscs.  Tliis  i)oint  is  readied  by  the  steamer 
Kod  Jack(;t  twice  a  day  on  her  way  to  tlio  Central  liailway 
depot  at  Elizabeth  Port,  and  this  forms  a  connection  be- 
tween  the  island  and  that  point  for  passenrrcrs  or  vehicles. 
Mariner's  Harbor  is  tho  last  landin*?  of  the  North  Shore 
steamers.  Before  tho  Long  Pier  is  reached,  there  is  tho 
Willow  Grove  Hotel,  (German,)  a  popular  pic-nic  ground 
directly  on  the  shore,  with  fine  oysters  and  fishing.  The 
long  bridge  of  the  Central  Railway  spanning  Newark  Bay 
is  directly  in  front  view,  and  is  one  of  the  most  perfect 
works  of  the  kind  to  be  found  anywhere. 

The  north  side  of  the  island  can  also  be  reached  now  by 
the  Central  Xew- Jersey  Railway,  from  the  foot  of  Liberty 
street.  On  the  way  to  Elizabeth  it  stops  at  Bergen  Point, 
and  thence  you  can  cross  the  Kills  to  Port  Richmond.  In 
tho  evening  this  new  route  may  be  used  later  than  tho 
boats.  The  Newark  and  Elizabeth  steamers  also  stop  at 
Bergen  Point.  The  steamboat  for  Rossville  and  Totten- 
ville  at  the  west  end  leaves  the  foot  of  Murray  street  twico 
daily.  There  are  no  steamboat  landings  on  the  south  side, 
owing  to  its  exposed  condition  on  the  lower  bay. 

There  are  few  rides  and  drives  so  fine  as  those  on  tho 
island  for  variety  and  loveliness  of  scenery.  It  is  only 
about  a  dozen  miles  long  and  from  3  to  5  broad,  divided  by 
a  ridge  of  hills  running  east  and  west.  On  the  north  sido 
the  visitor  enjoys  the  variegated  view^s  of  the  ever-moving 
panorama  of  the  Kills,  and  its  sails  and  steamers,  with  the 
far-distant  spires  and  masts  of  New- York,  and  the  nearer 
at  Newark  and  Elizabeth.  The  majestic  hills  and  moun- 
tains of  New-Jersey  bound  the  far-ofi'view.  Then  turning  his 
horses  toward  the  south,  and  climbing  the  gentle  ridge,  in 


:» 

1  .It 


m 


38 


SEASIDE  RESORTS. 


half  an  hour  the  tourist  reaches  the  summit  level,  and  the 
view  becomes  at  once  entirely  changed.  Now,  you  have  the 
land  and  water,  the  Lower  Bay,  Sandy  Hook  and  its  lights, 
the  Highlands  of  Navesink,  Coney  and  Long  Islands,  with 
their  shining  white  sand,  the  hills  of  Monmouth  on  the  west, 
t^nd  following  them,  at  last  the  eye  takes  in  the  distant 
magnificent  Atlantic.  We  know  no  region  like  Staten 
Island  which  thus  strikingly  unites  inland  and  water  and 
sea  views  within  its  own  borders,  so  easily  accessible. 


CONEY  ISLAND  AND  VICINITY 

Is  distant  from  the  Battery,  New- York,  10  miLs,  by  steam- 
boat during  the  summer  season,  and  from  Fulton  Ferry, 
Brooklyn, about  the  same  distance,  bystreet-cars  to  Green- 
w^ood  Cemetery,  4  miles,  and  thence  by  "  dummy"  train  to 
Coney  Island,  6  miles,  passing  through  Bath  and  New- 
Utrecht.  Also  by  street-cars  from  Fulton  Ferry,  ma  Prospect 
Park  and  Coney  Island  Plank-Road.  The  island  is  formed  by 
the  Atlantic  Ocean  on  the  south  and  east  and  Coney  Island 
Creek  on  the  north,  which  runs  from  Gravesend  Bay,  about 
2  miles  above  Fort  Hamilton,  in  New- York  Harbor,  to 
Rockaway  Inlet,  to  the  east,  and  is  5  miles  in  length.  The 
island  is  about  4:^  miles  long  by  about  one  half  wide  in  its 
extreme  width.  Sandy  Hook  is  a  little  south  of  west,  10 
miles  distant.  Sheep's  Head  Bay  is  about  2  miles  to 
the  eastward.  Coney  Island  is  noted  for  the  "  best  beach 
on  the  Atlantic  coast,"  ard  its  proximity  to  New- York 
makes  it  a  popular  place  during  the  summer  months. 
There  is  an  unbroken  view  of  the  ocean.  There  is  but 
one  hotel  of  any  pretensions,  but  several  smaller  ones, 
where  clam  and  fish  dinners  are  served,  and  good  bathing 
privileges  can  be  enjoyed  near  all  of  them. 
Felter's  Hotel  is  situated  on  the  eastern  end  of  the 


iMMiiiiHiiii 


SEASIDE    EESOKTS. 


39 


I,  and  the 
■  have  the 
its  ligJits, 
nds,  with 
the  west, 
e  distant 
e  Staten 
'ater  and 
ble. 


y  steam- 
i  Ferry, 
)  Green- 
train  to 
Kew- 
rospect 
medby 
Island 
about 
5or,  to 
The 
in  its 

3St,  10 
[es  to 
beach 
York 
>nths. 
but 
ones, 
hing 

the 


island,  3  miles  from  the  boat-landing,  and  close  by  the 
depots  of  both  railway  lines.  It  is  near  the  beach,  and  has 
an  excellent  garden  and  3  acres  of  i)lay-ground  attached. 
Also  bowling-alleys,  billiard-rooms,  and  stabling  for  100 
horses.  The  house  contains  80  rooms,  furnished  in  first- 
class  style,  and  has  large  parlors  and  reception  and  dining- 
rooms,  and  claims  a  first-class  table  among  its  attractions. 
The  view  from  the  verandas  surroimding  the  house  is  a 
splendid  one,  and  takes  in  New- York  Bay,  Staten  Island, 
and  the  Atlantic  Ocean  to  the  front,  and  the  environs  of 
Brooklyn  to  the  rear.  Bass  and  blue-fish  are  numerous  in 
th^  Bay,  and  also  in  the  creek  which  helps  to  form  the 
island,  where  weak-fish  and  soft-shell  crabs  are  also  found 
in  plenty.  The  drives  from  the  islai.d  are  mostly  over 
plank-roads,  while  that  on  the  beach,  for  3  miles,  is^ex- 
cellent.  Fort  Hq,milton  is  5  miles  distant ;  Sheep's  Head 
Bay,  4  miles ;  Flatbush,  5  miles ;  Prospect  Park,  Brook- 
lyn, 6  miles.  The  house  is  open  from  May  1st  to  the  last 
of  Octol)er,  18G8.  Price,  per  day,  $3.50 ;  per  week,  821. 
Samuel  W.  Felter,  proprietor. 

Pavilion  Hotel,  west  end  of  Coney  Island,  9i  miles  from 
Fulton  Ferry,  and  about  10  miles  from  the  Battery.  By 
O'Neill,  proprietor.    Principally  used  as  a  restaurant. 

Point  Comfort  House. — By  John  McPherson.  Near 
the  above,  and  used  for  same  purposes. 

TivoLi  House. — Situated  about  2  miles  from  the  steam- 
boat lauding,  and  at  the  terminus  of  the  dummy  rail- 
way. Used  principally  as  a  restauiant,  on  the  European 
plan.  Benjamin  William  Hook,  proprietor.  Open  from 
May  25tli  until  September  10th. 

Sea- View  House, — By  John  [McPherson.  Same  pur- 
poses as  "  Tivoli  House." 

Wyckofp  House. — By  George  E.  Green,    ('ontains  40 


.li' 


40 


SEASIDE   RESORTS. 


1!)^ 


rooms,  and  is  .at  the  terminus  of  the  Coney  Island  Street 
Railway.    Used  for  boarders,  and  open  the  year  round. 
Green's    Hotel.  —  Adjoining  Wyckoff   House.     By 


George  E.  Green. 


Restaurant,  etc. 


CONEY  ISLAND  FLANK-KOAD. 

Windsor  Terrace  is  on  the  Coney  Island  Plank-Road, 
3^  miles  from  Fulton  Ferry,  and  6  from  Coney  Island.  It 
is  opposite  the  New  Prospect  Park,  in  Brooklyn,  and  is  in 
a  beautiful  situation,  commanding  an  extensive  view  of 
the  park,  skating-pond,  and  the  Kings  county  parade- 
ground.  There  is  a  look-out  in  front,  on  Prospect  Hill, 
250  feet  high,  from  which  a  good  view  of  New- York, 
Brooklyn,  New- York  Harbor,  and  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  etc., 
can  be  had.  The  house  contains  18  rooms,  is  entirely 
new,  and  it  is  intended  to  make  it  a  first-class  place.  Wil- 
liam Ward  Hopkins,  proprietor. 

Tunison's  Hotel.— Coney  Island  Plank-Road,  5  miles 
from  Fulton  Ferry  and  4  from  Coney  Island.  By  M. 
C.  Tunison.  Family  house,,  for  the  pleasure  and  conve- 
nience of  riding  parties. 

Post's  Hotel.  —  Coney  Island  Plank-Road,  7^  miles 
from  Fulton  Ferry,  and  2|  from  Coney  Island.  Hicks 
Post,  proprietor.     Same  purpose  as  above. 

Conroy's  Hotel. — Coney  Island  Plank-Road,  8J  miles 
from  Fulton  Ferry,  and  1^  from  Coney  Island.  By  J.  W. 
Conroy.    Same  as  above. 

CAPE    MAY. 

Few  among  the  standard  and  recognized  places  of  sum- 
mer  resort  enjoy  a  wider  celebrity  than  Cape  May,  and 
of  late  years,  since  railway  communication  has  made  it 
more  accessible,  its  list  of  visitors  has  lar^oely  increasad. 


lam 


SEASIDE   RESORTS. 


41 


/ 


It  is  the  favorite  resort  of  Philadelpliians,  and  even  the 
growing  popularity  of  its  new  rival,  Atlantic  City,  has  af- 
fected it  but  slightly.  The  easiest  way  to  reach  it  from 
New  York  is  by  railway  to  Camden,  opposite  Philadelphia, 
and  thence  by  a  four  hours'  railway  ride,  passing  through 
Vineland,  and  a  number  of  other  towns,  to  Cape  May. 
The  route  is  not  particularly  interesting,  the  southern 
part  of  New-Jersey  being  flat  and  tame,  as  regards  scenery  ; 
but  the  attractions  awaiting  the  visitor  at  the  end  of  his 
journey  are  quite  enough  to  compensate  for  the  tedium  of 
the  route. 

Cape  May  is  at  the  extreme  southern  point  of  New- 
Jersey,  where  the  Delaware  Bay  enters  into  the  sea.  The 
little  insulated  bit  of  land  on  which  all  the  hotels  stand, 
is  known  as  Cape  Island,  and  occupies  an  area  of  about  250 
acres.  The  village  has  a  permanent  population  of  about 
1200  souls  ;  but  in  the  summer  season,  the  numerous  visi- 
tors to  the  place  swell  the  number  of  Cape  May  denizens  to 
thousands.  It  is  then  a  gay  and  brilliant  place.  Over  a 
dozen  hotels  are  crowded  with  health-seeking  myriads  from 
New- York  and  Philadelphia,  and  especially  from  Baltimore 
and  Washington.  In  the  more  prosperous  days  of  the 
South,  before  the  war.  Cape  May  was  the  favorite  resort  of 
Southerners,  many  coming  from  as  far  as  New-Orleans,  Cape 
May  being  the  nearest  place  of  sea-side  resort  for  them.  At 
present,  they  do  not  come  in  such  large  numbers  ;  but  as 
times  improve,  it  is  expected  that  they  will  return  to  their 
old  haunts.  In  the  West,  Cape  May  is  w^ell  known.  Saint 
Louis,  Cincinnati,  and  Pittsburg  being  all  represented  in 
her  huge  hotels. 

The  season  at  this  admired  place  of  resort  usually  be- 
gins about  the  first  of  June — that  is,  the  hotels  open  then  ; 
but  the  season  is  not  at  its  height  till  the  first  of  July,  or 


n  m 


'    '' -, .  ■ 


iZi-' 


-:  h 


\^\'\ 


a  r 


vw. 


«  i 


42 


SEASIDE  RESORTS. 


tliereaboiits.  The  usual  recreations  of  a  sea-side  resort  can 
1)0  found  liere  to  perfection.  The  beach,  over  5  miles 
long,  is  very  hard  and  compact,  and  ofiers  an  unsurpassed 
course  for  driving.  Bathing  is,  of  course,  the  feature  of 
the  day,  and  is  attended  with  all  its  usual  health-giving 
and  mirth-producing  concomitants.  In  the  evening,  t-trolls 
along  the  beach  or  on  the  hotel  piazzas,  offer  attractions 
to  those  who  do  not  care  to  join  the  groups  of  gay*  dancers 
in  the  parlors.  Occasionally  concerts  of  more  than  ave- 
rage merit  are  given  by  vocalists  from  the  metropolis. 

On  leaving  the  cars,  at  the  station,  the  traveler  can 
either  walk  to  the  hotels  or  enter  the  omnibuses,  which 
convey  passengers  to  them  without  charge.  The  distance 
from  the  railway  depot  is  but  trifling. 

There  are  some  fifteen  or  sixteen  hotels  at  Cape  May, 
though  two  of  them  of  wide  celebrity  in  their  day — the 
Mount  Vernon  and  the  Mansion — have  been  destroyed  by 
fire.  The  leading  hotel  at  Cape  May  is  undoubtedly 
"  Congress  Hall,"  kept  by  Mr.  Cake,  of  the  Wadsworth 
House  in  New- York.  It  is  an  immense  structure,  capable 
of  accommodating  1000  guests,  and  noted  for  tlie  excel- 
lence of  its  management  and  the  variety  of  its  table. 
The  i^rice  of  board  at  this  establishment  is  $4  a  day,  or 
$25  a  week. 

Another  first-class  house  is  the  Columbia,  which  has  ac- 
commodations for  700  guests.  Of  a  similar  grade  is  the 
United  States  Hotel,  v/here  450  tourists  can  find  all  they 
need  in  the  way  of  food  and  lodging.     Other  hotels  are : 


Delaware  House,  accommodating 
Atlantic  Hotel,  " 

Centre  House, 
Washington  Hotel, 
Tremont 


n 


300  persons. 

400       " 

400 

200       " 

150       " 


■^1—    -^  - 


SEASIDE   RESORTS. 


43 


esort  can 
5  miles 
iurpassed 
at  lire  of 
li-giving 
^•,  strolls 
tractions 
dancers 
lan  ave- 
olis. 

jler  can 
},  which 
distance 

)e  May, 
ly— the 
)yed  by 
ibtedly 
sworth 
aj^ablo 

excel- 

table. 
lay,  or 

las  ac- 
is  the 
they 
ire: 


National  Hotel,  accommodating 
City  "  " 

Sherman  House,  " 

American  Hotel, 
Merchants'  Hotel, 


250  persona. 
200       " 
250       " 
150 
150       " 


Still  another  hotel  will  be  opened  this  summer,  (1868.) 
It  has  a  veranda  20  feet  wide,  and  will  probably  be  called 
the  West-Jersey  Hotel. 

The  Cape  May  hotels  are  built  almost  on  the  beach  it- 
self, and,  of  course,  in  full  view  of  the  ocean.  The  present 
prospects  of  the  place  are  most  flattering,  and  this  favorite 
old  watering-place  seems  determined  that  none  of  its 
younger  rivals  shall  surpass  it. 

EOCKAWAY  BEACH,  LONG  ISLAND. 

We  remember  when  Rockaway  Beach,  a  dozen  years 
ago,  at  the  old  Pavilion,  about  6  miles  east  of  the  present 
Sea  View,  was  the  most  fashionable  resort  in  the  immedi- 
ate vicinity  of  New- York.  That  location  is  now  an  Irish 
settlement,  and  the  beach  has  been  spoiled,  they  say,  by  a 
sand-bar. 

The  Beach  has  lost  much  of  its  distinction  now,  but  still 
affords  a  pleasant  sea-side  resort  for  city-tied  and  tired 
people.  The  Bay  View  House  is  in  a  very  fine  position, 
facing  Jamaica  Bay.  It  is  built  upon  made  land  entirely. 
Less  than  a  year  ago  the  high  tide  covered  the  present 
site  of  the  hotel  with  a  depth  of  about  five  feet.  The 
terms  at  the  Bay  View  were,  last  season,  $4  per  day,  and 
$17.50  by  the  week.  The  terms  across  the  bay  at  the  Sea 
View,  where  is  the  surf,  are  $3  per  day,  and  $15  to  $18 
by  the  week.  The  house  is  lighted  by  gas  manufactured 
on  the  premises.  Lessee  and  landlord,  Mr.  A.  D.  Failing. 
Further  information  can  be  had  from  the  Secretary  and 
Treasurer  of  the  company  owning  the  dummy  railway 


hi. 

.1 


I 


II   '■ 


!i    < 


¥' 


t 


Hi 


44 


SEASIDE   EESORTS 


and  the  hotel,.  Mr.  Henry  Johnson,  of  36  Pine  street. 
There  are  several  other  hotels  here,  also  several  private- 
boarding-houses.  The  best  route  to  Rockaway,  if  one  be 
burdened  with  baggage,  is  by  the  Long  Island  Railway 
to  Jamaica,  12  miles,  thence  by  stage  8  miles  over  an  ex- 
cellent road  to  the  beach.  During  the  summer  season  a 
steamboat  plies  between  New- York  and  Rockaway.  There 
is  also  a  railway  between  Jamaica  and  Rockaway.  An- 
other route,  pleasanter  to  the  baggageless,  is  by  city  cars, 
8  or  9  miles,  from  the  Brooklyn  ferries,  3^  of  ^vilich  is 
through  a  pleasant  country  by  steam,  occupying  some- 
thing less  than  15  minutes.  The  time  is  about  50  minutes 
on  the  street-cars  to  East  New- York.  The  fare  on  the 
dummy  is  15  cents,  and  on  the  boat  crossing  to  the  Sea- 
View  House,  30  cents.  The  ride  across  Jamaica  Bay  in 
the  boat  is  about  6  miles  in  high  tide  and  about  8  in  low, 
as  the  route  must  be  changed  when  the  w^ater  is  low. 

There  is  not  much  to  see  at  Rockaway ;  but  "  not  much" 
is  more  than  "  two  trees  and  a  brook,"  of  which  many  of 
the  Long  Island  toicns  are  said  to  be  composed.  Rock  Hall, 
built  by  Dr.  Martin,  is  a  fine  old  mansion,  and  contains 
some  valuable  i^ictures.  In  the  burial-ground  of  the 
Methodist  church,  built  1790,  is  the  grave  and  monument 
of  the  victims  of  the  wrecks  of  the  Bristol  and  Mexico, 
which  were  lost  November  21st,  1826,  and  January  2d, 
1837. 

FIRE  ISLAND,  LONG  ISLAND. 

Fire  Island  is  a  long,  narrow  strip  of  beach,  jutting  out 
into  the  ocean  from  the  Long  Island  shore.  It  is  about 
25  miles  from  New- York,  and  is  reached  by  the  Long 
Island  Railway,  which  takes  passengers,  by  stage,  within 
3  miles  of  the  bay,  and  by  the  Southside  Railway,  from 


tl 

\\ 

•  I 

11 


SEASIDE   RESOETS. 


45 


ine  street, 
•al  private- 
,  if  one  be 
i  Railway 
ver  an  ex- 
r  season  a 
ly.   There 
vay.    An- 
city  cars, 
^viiich  is 
ng  some- 
)  minutes 
e  on  the 
the  Sea- 
fi  Bay  in 
8  in  low, 
ow. 

•t  much" 
many  of 
ck  Hall, 
contains 
of  the 
nument 
Mexico, 
ary  2d, 


Hunter's  Point.  On  leaving  the  railway,  passengers  take 
the  steamboat  and  cross  the  bay"  over  a  beautiful  sheet  of 
water  about  8  miles  wide.  There  are  only  3  hotels  on  the 
island.  One  is  kept  by  D.  S.  S.  Sammis,  and  will  accom- 
modate about  200  boarders.  The  rooms  are  small,  but 
made  pleasant  by  a  constant  breeze  from  the  sea.  The 
price  is  about  $20  per  week. 

The  other  hotel  is  a  small  house  called  Dominie's  Hotel, 
and  will  accommodate  but  a  small  number.  The  beach  is 
perfectly  arid  and  desolate.  It  is  about  f  of  a  mile  wide. 
From  Sammis's  Hotel  a  plank  walk  extends  to  the  >vater, 
where  there  is  to  be  found  surf-bathing  as  fine  as  any  in 
the  country.  There  is  good  blue-fishing  in  the  bay,  Avhich 
is  called  the  Great  South  Bay.  Persons  frequently  go  out 
12  or  15  miles  and  catch  the  largest  species  of  fish.  Within 
a  few  rods  of  Sammis's  Hotel  is  a  light-house,  which  is 
one  of  the  finest  structures  of  the  kind  on  the  coast.  Op- 
posite Fire  Island,  on  the  Long  Island  shore,  there  are 
boarding-houses  where  the  advantage  of  drives  is  obtained. 


•  6  • 


THE   MASSACHUSETTS    COAST. 


mg  out 
I  about 
!  Long 
within 
^  from 


FROM  BOSTON  TO  PORTLAND 

SwAMPSCOTT  has,  within  the  last  eight  years,  become 
the  most  popular  watering-place  on  the  New-England 
coast  for  Bostonians.  It  is  to  Boston  wdiat  Long  Branch  is 
to  New- York,  and  Cape  May  or  Atlantic  City  to  Philadel- 
phia. Fashionafjle  Boston  moves  to  Swampscott  in  July. 
Whole  families  are  transported  thither  in  their  carriages 


48 


SEASIDE  RESOETS. 


! 


i 


or  by  rail,  and  a  grand  establishment  of  dogs,  horses,  do- 
mestics, and  children  is  moved  in  a  few  hours  from  Beacon 
street  to  their  "  cottage  by  the  sea." 

Hero  the  same  faces  are  met  which  have  been  seen  daily 
for  nine  months  on  'Change,  and  the  young  ladies  who 
have  been,  perchance,  your  partners  in  the  winter's  Ger- 
mans, flash  by  you  on  the  road,  the  dashing  charioteers  of 
pony-chaises. 

When  the  traveler  examines  this  place,  he  will  see  little 
which  can  account  for  its  extraordinary  popularity.  There 
are  few  beaches  along  the  coast  which  are  not  larger  and 
more  attractive  than  those  of  Swampscott.  The  walks 
and  drives  are  not  of  remarkable  beauty,  nor  are  the 
streets  sufficiently  broad  to  make  rapid  riding  safe  or  com- 
fortable. Nevertheless,  these  narrow  streets  are  crowded 
with  carriages  and  equestrians,  and  the  beaches  continu- 
ally ornamented  by  groups  of  ladies  intent  on  exercise  or 
bathing.  The  scene  is  one  of  most  lively  animation,  and 
all  visitors  are  impressed  with  the  fact  tiii  t  Swampscott  is 
beloved  by  the  Bostonian. 

The  secret  of  this  so  evident  popularity  is  the  nearness 
of  the  village  to  Boston  and  its  accessibility  at  almost  any 
hour  of  the  twenty-four.  A  ride  of  forty  minutes  brings 
the  traveler  to  the  neat  depot,  where  omnibuses  are  in 
waiting  to  take  him  to  cottage  or  hotel.  Private  carriages 
cover  the  roads  and  surround  the  station  on  the  arrival  of 
the  afternoon  trains.  A  drive  of  a  mile  and  a  half  through 
Fisherman's  Village  and  by  Philip's  Beach  gives  an  op- 
portunity of  obtaining  an  idea  of  the  natural  advantages 
of  the  place.  And  when  the  stranger  is  lodged  at  the 
Great  or  the  Little  Ana  warn,  or  at  the  Lincoln  House,  the 
ocean  is  spread  before  him,  the  heights  of  Cape  Ann  stand 
forth,  and  the  white  houses  along  the  beach  of  Lynn, 


SEASIDE  RESORTS. 


4*^ 


in 


while  in  front  is  Egg  Rock,  near  to  the  land,  but  exposed: 
to  many  a  buffet  from  the  in-rolling  Atlantic. 

The  coast  of  Swampscott  and  vicinity  is  exceedingly 
dangerous  to  the  seaman.  The  beaches  are  short,,  the 
rocky  bluffs  high  and  long.  A  more  unpleasant  spot  the 
Oceanidae  could  never  find  whereon  to  drive  a  ship  which 
they  had  determined  to  destroy.  The  surf,  pushed  onward , 
by  a  "  north-easter,"  rushes  with  tremendous  force  against 
the  jagged  cliffs,  and  would  sweep  to  destruction  the 
strongest  vessel. 

The  large  hotels  are  three  in  number — the  Anawams, 
Great  and  Little,  and  the  Lincoln  House.  There  are  also  in- 
numerable boarding-houses  and  several  hotels  of  a  smaller 
size.  The  village  extends  from  the  depot  to  the  sea.  It 
is  a  thriving  settlement,  adorned  here  and  there  with  a 
church  or  a  private  residence  erected  by  Bostonians.  As 
the  road  winds  downward  to  the  ocean,  it  passes  through 
Fisherman's  Village,  where  numerous  boat-houses  stand, 
with  their  names  brightly  painted  upon  them  in  a  style 
which  suggests  Yarmouth  in  Old  England.  Farther  on 
are  the  beaches  and  boarding-houses.  The  road  follows 
the  shore  with  many  a  curve,  now  approaching  the  beach 
and  now  directed  toward  the  woods,  which  here,  as  on  all 
the  coast  of  New-England,  fringe  the  seaside. 

From  the  hills,  covered  with  these  green  woods,  a  lovely 
scene  is  presented.  The  fleet  of  fishing-vessels  at  anchor 
in  the  harbor  or  marked  against  the  eastern  horizon,  the 
distant  steamers  on  their  way,  and  passing  yachts  are  al- 
ways visible  in  the  daytime,  and  at  night  the  surf  and  the 
moonlight  make  a  most  effective  combination. 

The  bathing  is  excellent,  the  water  deepening  not  too 
rapidly,  and  being  warmer  than  at  Nahant  or  Rye.  There 
is  no  undertow  whatever.     The  fishing  is  proverbially 


It  i"i 


:!■' 


;);; 


!  ll 


n 


48 


SEASIDE  RESORTS. 


fine,  and  the  many  yachts  which  grace  tlie  harbor  show 
that  the  facilities  for  sailing  are  appreciated  by  the  gen- 
tlemen who,  for  the  summer  months,  make  this  their 
home.  The  town  is  fast  increasing  in  valuation  under  the 
impetus  of  so  many  city  guests.  Real  estate  has  rapidly 
risen.  Many  a  fair  cottage  is  built,  and  each  year  the 
number  grows,  though  he  who  builds  a  summer  residence 
finds  the  luxury  sufficiently  exj^ensive  to  do  credit  to  the 
claims  of  Swampscott  as  a  watering-place  of  the  highest 
fashion. 

Close  to  this  village  is  Salem,  the  homo  of  witchcraft 
and  the  East-India  trade.  A  good  road  leads  to  the  centre 
of  the  city  from  the  Ocean  House  at  Swampscott.  By  day 
it  is  almost  depopulated,  many  of  its  most  worthy  citizens 
going  to  Boston  for  business  purposes,  and  returning  to 
dinner  and  domestic  joys.  It  is  an  old  city,  but  without 
that  indescribable  air  of  aristocratic  ago  which  surrounds 
Portsmouth.  Its  wealth  has  been  chiefly  accumulated  in 
the  East-India  commerce  direct  from  its  own  port.  But 
now  the  business  is  wholly  conducted  in  Boston,  and  Sa- 
lem's wharves  are  desolate.  The  modern  Athens  has  at- 
tracted to  herself  capital  and  talent,  and  the  towns  of 
lesser  growth  aromid  her  can  nevermore  be  centres  of 
thriving  trade.  The  Common  is  a  source  of  pride.  Hand- 
some houses  surround  the  open  square,  whicli  in  sum- 
mer is  deserving  of  much  admiration.  The  nearness  of 
the  little  city  to  the  ocean  makes  its  suburbs  a  popular 
resort  for  visitors.  The  drives  in  every  direction  are  plea- 
eant,  leading  toward  Lynn,  Swampscott,  and  Nahant, 
crossing  the  river  to  Beverly,  or  penetrating  into  the  inte- 
rior. In  every  direction  the  traveler  can  see  something, 
when  the  sun  is  shining,  of  interest,  and  a  week  of  rainy 
weather  can  be  profitably  devoted  to  the  examination  of 


timmi 


SEASIDE   RESORTS. 


49 


ii 


the  town  records,  the  reading  of  the  local  literature,  and 
the  study  of  the  monstrous  and  ever-memorable  history 
of  the  Salem  witches. 

Naliant  was  for  many  years  a  favorite  resort  for  the 
elite  of  New-England.  It  has  never  recovered  from  the 
loss  by  fire  of  its  principal  hotel  several  years  ago.  Al- 
though the  work  of  rebuilding  was  quick  and  en(;rgetic, 
the  tide  of  travel  wa.s  in  the  interval  diverted,  and  has  not 
returned  in  full  force  to  the  former  channel.  The  beach 
ip  delightful,  and  far  superior  to  that  of  Lynn  or  Swaiiips- 
cott.  Nothing  equaling  it  is  found  until  we  approach  the 
Hamptons.  The  surf  is  magnificently  high,  and  the  beach 
long,  broad,  and  hard. 

There  is  but  one  largo  hotel  at  Nahtiiit.  It  has  become 
a  spot  for  cottages  and  a  residence  for  families  who  desire 
more  beach  and  less  society  than  they  would  find  at 
Swampscott.  It  is  the  abiding-place  of  Cambridge  pro- 
fessors, of  prominent  litterateurs,  and  the  professional  men 
of  Boston  who,  after  the  arduous  labors  of  eight  or  nine 
months,  are  refreshed  by  the  sea-air,  by  the  study  of  the 
habits  of  the  finny  tribe,  and  by  leading  them  captive  with 
line  and  hook. 

A  steamer  runs  regularly  to  Nahant  through  the  sum- 
mer. Three  quarters  of  an  hour  are  agreeably  passed  in 
running  down  the  bay  and  in  observing  the  forts  and 
Hingham,  where  the  boat  touches.  Much  has  been  said 
and  sung  of  the  beauties  of  Boston  Bay.  The  unfortunate " 
sailor,  coming  on  the  coast  in  a  driving  snow-storm  in 
January,  may  fail  to  perceive  its  attractions  as  he  watches 
through  freezing  eyelids  for  the  lights  which  point  out 
home  and  safety  ;  but  the  traveler  can  not  fail  to  appreci- 
ate them  when  the  summer  sea  is  calm  beneath  and  the 
summer  sky  above  him. 


II 


I'' 

f 

4. 


1:1 


t 


ii 


50 


SEASIDE  RESORTS. 


11 


Chelsea  lies  near  Boston,  on  its  outskirts.  Tlio  advanc- 
ing growth  of  tlie  city,  wliich  lias  absorbed  Roxbury,  may 
soon  include  the  Chelsea  beach  as  part  f  nd  parcel  of  itself. 
But  now  it  has  a  separate  name  and  fame.  Horse-cars  run 
hourly  to  it,  and  the  Eastern  Railway  takes  the  traveler 
thither  by  a  ton  minutes'  ride. 

The  beach  is  well  known  as  extensive  and  beautiful, 
abounding  in  game  ai.d  furnished  with  sundry  hotels 
wherein  the  best  of  cheer  awaiteth  the  guest.  It  is  a  popu- 
lar place  with  Bostonians,  who  drive  to  the  shore,  bathe, 
eat  a  game-supper,  and  return  by  moonlight.  The  marshes 
are  visited  through  September  by  many  birds,  which  not 
even  the  neighborhood  of  a  large  city  can  frighten 
away. 

For  bathing  in  the  fresh  rollers  of  the  Atlantic,  Chelsea 
is  unsurpassable,  and  sailing-boats  are  always  in  readiness 
for  those  who  prefer  to  be  rocked  upon  the  waters  to  being 
tossed  about  within  them. 

Hampton  B<  :7j,h  is  on  the  line  of  the  Eastern  Railway, 
45  miles  from  Beston.  It  is  next  to  Rye,  and  the  stranger 
can  drive  fruin  the  Atlantic  or  Ocean  House  at  that  water- 
ing-place directly  to  the  Boar's  Head,  in  Hampton.  The 
beach  was  widely  celebrated  in  earlier  times,  and  the  colo- 
nists of  New-Hampshire  often  rode  down  to  this  part  of  the 
coast  for  a  clam-bake,  or  the  more  solemn  ceremonies  of 
prayer-meeting. 

Hampton  is  not  as  crowded  by  the  fashionable  world  as 
its  neighbor,  Rye,  but  the  visiter  has  no  less  facilities  for 
enjoyment.  The  hotels  are  excellent,  the  bathing  and 
fishing  superlatively  fine,  and  the  Bcenery  better  than  from 
any  other  point  of  the  New  Hampshire  coast.  From  the 
Isle  of  Shoals  alone  is  a  bet!  or  view  to  be  obtained. 
Boar's  Head  juts  out  into  the  Boa  for  several  miles,  and  is 


SEASIDE    RESORTS. 


61 


always  deliciously  breezy  throughout  the  hottest  August. 
Lovely  roads  lead  to  Kye,  to  Portsmouth,  Exeter,  Gretui- 
land,  and  Stratham  Hill,  all  well  worth  the  careful  inspec- 
tion of  tho  tourist. 

Boarding-houses  are  numerous,  and  the  accommodations 
so  good  that  it  is  said  no  one  fails  to  revisit  Hampton  who 
has  ever  remained  there  during  a  whole  day.  Hampton 
Falls  and  North-Hampton  are  different  villages  behind  the 
same  long  beach.  Between  them  and  tho  ocean  lie  wide 
marshes,  over  which  trains  rush  almost  hourly.  The  tra- 
veler is  reminded  of  English  scenery  as  he  passes  these 
old  settlements  with  the  gray  marshes  and  distant  sea  be- 
yond the  little  white  villages,  which  fill  the  route  from 
Newburyport  to  Portsmouth. 

For  one  who  has  an  inclination  to  see  all  that  is  most 
beautiful  in  New-England,  no  better  route  from  the  White 
Mountains  could  be  suggested  than  that  to  Red  Hill  and 
Centre  Harbor,  on  Lake  Winnipiseogee — down  the  lake 
to  Wolfboro  and  Alton  Bay — by  rail  to  Dover,  and  thence 
to  Portsmouth  and  the  neighboring  beach§s,  thence  across 
the  Piscataqua  into  Maine. 

Three  superb  beaches  lie  upon  the  Maine  coast — those 
of  York,  of  Wells,  and  of  Saco  ;  this  last  is  better  known 
as  Old  Orchard. 

The  traveler  can  reach  Cape  Neddick  by  a  short  ride 
over  the  Portsmouth,  Saco,  and  Portland  Railway  from 
Portsmouth.  Or,  if  he  prefer  the  better  views  and  greater 
leisure  of  a  slower  passage,  he  can  take  the  daily  stage 
which  leaves  Boston  at  eleven  in  the  morning.  At  Cape 
Neddick  is  York  Beach  and  Bold  Head  Cliff,  yearly  visited 
by  crowds  of  curious  strangers.  Agamenticus  is  but  a 
mile  distant,  from  whose  imposing  summit  can  be  seen  the 
harbors  of  Boston,  Portsmouth,  and  Portland,  the  coast  of 


I' 


i 

•  • 


li  t, 


tf. 


52 


SEASIDE  RESORTS. 


[i  • 


ill 


Maine,  New-Hampuliire,  and  Massacliusetts,  and  the  peaks 
of  the  White  Mountains. 

Continuing  onward  by  stage  or  cars,  the  tourist  is  con- 
veyed to  Wells,  a  place  unfrequented  by  the  gay  fashiona- 
bles of  New- York  and  Boston,  but  dear  to  the  heart  of 
every  sportsman. 

This  beach  is  6  miles  in  length,  and  covered  with  crowds 
of  snipe  and  curlew.  Partridges  and  woodcock  abound  in 
the  woods,  and  a  large  trout-stroam,  filled  with  these  deli- 
cious fish,  arising  from  the  sea,  crosses  the  beach.  Follow- 
ing this  stream  as  it  winds  into  the  deepening  shades  of  the 
forest,  many  smaller  brooklets  are  found,  running  back 
into  the  country  as  far  as  North  and  South-Berwick. 

These  localities  are  thoroughly  explored  by  the  gunners 
and  fishermen  who  come  each  year  from  the  large  cities 
as  regularly  as  the  game  they  seek. 

Biddeford  and  Saco  are  the  most  flourishing  of  the 
smaller  cities  of  Maine.  Their  business  is  chiefly  of  a 
manufacturing  nature,  and  during  the  war  large  sums 
were  invested  therein  by  sagacious  capitalists.  On  one 
side  of  the  Saco  River  is  Saco,  on  the  other  Biddeford,  and 
a  few  miles  to  the  east  is  the  beach. 

This,  like  Wells,  is  a  favorite  resort  of  the  sportsman. 
The  bathing  and  fishing  are  remarkably  fine,  and  nume- 
rous picnics,  camp-meetings,  and  similar  entertainments  are 
located  each  season  upon  the  hard  and  gleaming  sand 
which  extends  for  miles  along  the  shore. 

A  wonderful  curiosity  of  this  neighborhood  is  Saco 
Pool,  which  should  be  seen  by  every  traveler.  The  sea, 
by  a  small  passage,  runs  up  a  quarter  of  a  mile  into  the 
land,  and  fills  a  large,  circular  basin,  near  which  stands  a 
hotel.  This  deep  basin  is  scooped  from  the  solid  rock,  and 
is  emptied  and  refilled  as  the  rushing  tide  rises  and  falls 


I 


*H  < 


■ 


w 


m 


Pulpit  FaUs,  Ithaca,  N.  Y. 


V 

l     '■ 
) 

1 

1 

f    i 

! 
... 

SEASIDE  RESOPTS. 


53 


again. 


The  singular  pool  excites  much  attention  from  the 
geologist.  The  poetic  fancy  'night  people  it  with  marine 
deities  or  graceful  sea-nymphs,  who  have  made  a  quiet 
court-chamber  apart  from  the  surging  waters  of  the  outer 
ocean.  Bat  never  by  the  noonday  sun  or  the  pale  moon- 
light have  their  forms  been  seen.  Nevei-theless,  this  theo- 
ry is  assuredly  as  plausible  as  any  of  the  many  which  have 
been  framed  to  account  for  this  work  of  nature,  so  strange 
and  beautiful. 

CUSHING'S  ISLAND,  FOBTLAND  HABBOB. 

In  the  harbor  of  Portland,  Maine,  about  3  miles  from 
the  city,  is  situated  a  lovely  little  island  of  250  acres, 
known  as  Cushing's  Island.  It  commands  as  fine  a  view 
of  Neptune's  domains  as  any  spot  on  this  continent.  Route 
from  New- York,  most  direct  by  Portland  steamers  Diri- 
go  and  Chesapeake,  from  Pier  38,  East  River,  Wednesdays 
and  Saturdays,  at  4  P.M.  On  this  island,  standing  high 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  is  a  first-class  hotel  called  the 
Ottawa  House,  under  the  management  of  George  Allen, 
Esq.,  formerly  of  the  Marlboro  Hotel,  of  Boston.  Canadian 
guefc  usually  have  the  majority  at  this  resort.  Here 
fashion  succumbs  to  comfort,  and  the  guests,  inspired  by 
the  example  and  efforts  of  their  worthy  host,  do  their 
utmost  to  make  each  other  happy.  About  200  yards  from 
the  hotel,  on  one  side  of  the  island,  is  a  beautiful  beach 
for  bathing,  with  bathing-houses,  dresses,  etc.,  for  the  ac- 
commodation of  the  guests,  while  on  the  ether  side  of  the 
island  is  equally  as  fine  a  beach,  where  the  visitors  bathe. 
Old  Izaak  Walton,  moreover,  has  his  devotees,  who  gratify 
their  tastes  by  piscatorial  raids,  either  in  deep-sea  fishing 
some  10  miles  out  on  the  briny  deep,  or  from  the  rocks  in 
the  immediate  neighbo'thood  of  the  house,  where  fish,  sut 


'I' 


1 


54 


SEASIDE  EESOETS. 


ficient  in  quantity  and  quality  to  feed  200  people,  can  be 
caught  in  a  few  hours  by  two  or  three  amateurs.  Terp- 
sichore also  has  her  willing  votaries,  and  nightly  in  the 
parlors  Young  America  trips  the  light  fantastic  toe  with 
Canada's  fair  daughters.  Charades,  dramatic  performan- 
ces, etc.,  each  c^  '  i  their  share  of  the  patronage,  and  thus 
the  time  is  pleasantly  employed,  while  for  those  who  turn 
away  from  the  enjoyments  of  the  parlor  there  are  fine 
bowling-alleys  and  a  billiard-room. 


•♦♦ 


THE    MAINE    COAST. 


CAFE   ELIZABETH   AND   PORTLAND. 

Cape  Elizabeth  is  2  miles  distant  from  Portland,  the 
commercial  capital  of  Maine,  and  shares  with  it  the  attrac- 
tions located  in  or  near  the  city,  Portland  harbor  is  one 
of  the  best  on  the  Atlantic  coast,  the  anchorage  being  pro- 
tected on  every  side  by  land,  while  the  water  is  deep,  and 
communication  with  the  ocean  direct  and  convenient.  It 
is  defended  by  Forts  Preble,  Scammell,  and  Gorges,  and 
dotted  over  with  lovely  islands.  These  islands  afford  most 
delightful  excursions,  as  is  the  case  all  along  this  charming 
coast,  and  are  among  the  greatest  attractions  of  the  vi- 
cinity. On  the  highest  point  of  the  peninsula,  upon  which 
the  city  stands,  is  an  observatory,  70  feet  high,  command- 
ing a  fine  view  of  the  city,  harbor,  islands  in  the  bay,  and, 
on  a  clear  day,  the  misty  summits  of  the  White  Moun- 
tains. The  great  fire  of  July  4th,  1866,  has  left  traces  in 
Portland  which  are  not  yet  repaired. 

At  the  Cape  there  is  a  large  hotel  called  Cape  Cottage, 


ii 


SEASIDE  BBSOBTS. 


55 


recently  renovated.  The  place  is  a  popular  one,  and  tlio 
visitor  will  hardly  need  fear  the  absence  of  good  society. 

One  may  go  by  the  Outside  Line  of  steamers,  from  Pier 
88,  East  River,  at  4  p.m.,  Wednesdays  and  Saturdays ;  fare, 

,  state-room  and  meals  extra. 


ii 


ung 
vi- 
lich 
md- 
ind, 
)un- 
|s  in 

ige, 


BELFAST   AND   CAMDEN. 

Camden,  on  the  west  shore  of  Penobscot  Bay,  just  a  lit- 
tle way  in  from  the  Fox  Islands,  is  a  much-frequented  re- 
sort.   Hotel,  the  Atlantic;  Mr.  Johnson,  proprietor. 

Belfast  and  Castine  are  some  30  miles  below  Bangor, 
where  the  Penobscot  enters  the  bay  which  takes  its  name. 
Belfast  on  the  west,  and  Castine  on  the  east  shore,  are  9 
miles  apart.  Both  are  small  ship-building  and  fishing 
towns.  The  reader  of  Longfellow's  Kavanagh  will  be  in- 
terested to  see  the  localities  of  Castine  involved  in  that  in- 
teresting poem.  Baron  Castine,  an  old  Frenchman,  lived 
here,  and  gave  name  to  the  place,  at  some  time  during  the 
eighteenth  century ;  and  his  old  house,  with  its  quaint,  worn 
steps,  is  one  of  the  curiosities  of  the  neighborhood.  The 
fort  in  the  noble  harbor,  built  during  the  Revolution  by 
the  English,  is  another  place  generally  visited.  During  a 
certain  part  of  the  summer  season  there  are  often  Metho- 
dist camp-meetings  held  hereabout. 

The  chief  source  of  enjoyment,  however,  is  in  the  de- 
lightful sailing,  fishing,  and  hunting.  There  are  so  many 
islands  in  the  bay,  and  the  water  is  so  delightfully  smooth 
and  unruffled,  that  there  are  always  multitudes  of  chow- 
der parties,  fishing  parties,  picnickers,  etc.,  profiting  by 
their  recreating  powers.  Inland,  there  is  fine  shooting 
available ;  and  furthermore,  at  this  point,  we  are  on  the 
direct  route  for  Moosehead  Lake  and  the  Maine  Forest, 
(see  article  so  entitled,)  by  way  of  Bangor. 


II 


'V 


56 


SEASIDE  EESORTS. 


The  Penobscot,  the  largest  and  most  beautiful  of  tlie 
rivers  of  Maine,  is  formed  by  two  branches,  the  east  and 
the  west,  which  unite  near  the  centre  of  the  State,  and 
flow  in  a  general  south-west  course  to  Bangor,  60  miles 
from  the  sea,  and  at  the  head  of  navigation.  Large  ves- 
sels can  ascend  to  Bangor,  and  small  steamboats  navigate 
the  river  yet  above.  At  Bangor,  the  tide  rises  to  the  great 
height  of  17  feet,  an  elevation  which  is  supposed  to  be 
produced  by  the  wedge-shaped  form  of  the  bay  and  by  the 
current  from  the  Gulf-Stream.  The  length  of  the  Penob- 
scot, from  the  j  unction  of  the  east  and  the  west  branches, 
is  135  miles ;  or,  measuring  from  the  source  of  the  west 
branch,  it  is  300  miles;  though,  as  far  as  the  tourist  is 
concerned,  it  is  only  60  miles — being  that  portion  between 
Bangor  and  the  ocean.  Tliis  part,  then,  the  Penobscot 
proper,  ranks,  in  its  pictorial  attractions,  among  the  finest 
river  scenery  of  the  United  States.  In  all  its  course  there 
are  continual  points  of  great  beauty,  and  very  often  the 
shore  rises  in  striking  and  even  grand  lines  and  propor- 
tions. 

MOUNT  DESEET    ISLAND. 

Mount  Desert  Island  is  an  out-of-the-way  nook  of  beauty  in 
Frenchman's  Bay,  east  of  the  mouth  of  the  Penobscot  River. 
It  is  40  miles  from  Bangor,  and  may  be  reached  from  Bos- 
ton by  steamer  to  Bucksport,  on  the  Penobscot,  fare,  $4, 
(from  Portland,  $2.50  or  $3,)  and  thence  by  stage,  ma  Ells- 
worth, 40  miles,  or  from  Castine,  on  Penobscot  Bay,  hard 
by.  If  the  visitor  here  can  not  sketch  the  bold,  rocky 
cliffs,  (for  this  is  a  choice  resort  of  the  landscape  painters,) 
he  can  beguile  the  fish  to  his  heart's  content.  And,  more- 
over, there  is  hardly  a  limit  to  the  places  and  wonders  that 
are  to  be  seen.  The  island  itself,  60,000  acres  in  extent, 
boasts  Green  Peak,  1800  feet  high,  the  loftiest  land  on  the 


SEASIDE  RESORTS. 


67 


Atlantic  coast  within  our  borders.     The  view  from  its 
summit,  of  course,  can  not  fail  to  impress  deeply  every  one 
who  visits  the  island.   The  vigorous  anl  varied  rock-bound 
coast  of  New-England  can  be  nowhere  seen  to  greater  ad- 
vantage.    The  mountain  most  nearly  overhangs  Bar  Har- 
bor, where  also  are  the  Spouting  Horn,  a  place  »/hero  the 
sea  (as  at  Newport)  casta  up  its  foamy  waves  to  a  great 
height ;  and  Schooner  Head,  such  a  phantom  ship  as  may 
be  seen,  or  used  to  be,  on  the  most  northern  portion  of  this 
coast,  at  Gaspe.    (See  sketch  of  Ontakio  and  Saint  Law- 
rence, ad  fi7iem.)    At  the  other  (south-west)  harbor  is  the 
Sea  Wall,  where  old  Neptune  has  heaped  up  the  stones  of 
the  shore  until  there  is  now  a  huge  wall  which,  at  the 
proper  tide,  resounds  with  the  breaking  of  the  billows 
against  it.    Pulpit  Rock  is  far  out  on  the  crags,  and  not 
approachable  by  the  weak-nerved ;  and  when  you  reach  it, 
you  let  yourself  down  into  a  pulpit  of  stone,  over  the  front 
of  which  you  look  down  a  sheer  precipice  of  50  or  60  feet 
into  the  angry  billows,  and  feel  the  jar  of  their  assaults 
upon  the  base  of  the  cliff,  or  think  you  do,  which  is  just 
as  well,  so  far  as  the  sensation  is  concerned.   From  the  pul- 
pit— indeed,  from  almost  any  point  on  the  eastern  side  of 
the  island — we  see  the  breakers  dashing  over  Mingo  Rock, 
a  mile  or  two  out,  and  exposed  on  all  sides  to  the  long 
wash  of  waves.     The  foam-crested  billows  climb  its  sides 
like  great  white  leviathans,  and  finding  they  can  not  quite 
reach  'he  summit,  spout  a  cloud  of  si>ray  over  it,  and  slide 
back  tgain  into  the  dark  abyss.     Ever  returning  to  the 
charge,  baffled  but  not  disheartened,  tlicy  appear  in  new 
forms  of  beauty  continually.    Sitting  on  the  highest  point 
of  the  island,  one  may  see  almost  every  rod  of  it,  and  the 
7  smaller  islands  that  encircle  it.   The  near  view  is  unique 
and  pleasant.    Gray  rocks  constitute  full  half  the  surface, 


08 


SEASIDE   BESOBTS. 


and  you  can  go  all  over  the  island,  with  a  little  care,  and 
not  step  on  the  soil.    In  the  dells,  where  a  rood  or  two  of 
soil  is  kept  moist  by  the  stone  basin  in  which  it  rests,  beds 
of  iris  b^nd  in  violet  waves  before  the  gale,  and  seem  as 
if  they  would  be  blue  or  purple  like  the  sea  if  they  were 
large  enough.    The  moss  and  grass  among  the  rocks  is  of 
more  lively  hues  than  are  common  on  the  main  land  at 
this  season.    Nor  is  other  vegetation  lacking.    Here,  for 
example,  is  a  bunch  of  yellow  clover,  very  delicate  and 
beautiful,  that  continentals  know  nothing  about,  except 
by  the  botany  books ;  and  there  are  quantities  of  splendid 
sea-mosses  for  whomsoever  has  the  industry  and  patience 
to  prepare  them  for  preservation.    For  animated  nature, 
there  is  a  flock  of  sheep  of  spotless  whiteness,  such  as  are 
never  seen  on  the  main  land,  except  in  pastures ;  and  half 
a  dozen  cows,  who  have  a  habit  of  going  to  the  eastern 
cliffs,  lying  down  together,  and  looking  out  earnestly  over 
the  sea.    Doubtless  they  are  of  foreign  breed,  and  have 
instinctive  yearnings  for  fatherland.    Also,  let  us  not  for- 
get the  one  black  horse,  who  can  draw  a  cart,  run  the 
treadmill,  and  in  trotting  is  without  a  rival.     If  there  are 
hogs  on  the  island,  they  avoid  observation.    Occasionally 
one  comes  from  the  main  land,  aisguised  in  fashionable 
toggery ;  but  the  air  does  not  agree  with  them,  and  they 
eat  one  dinner  and  leave.    As  long  ago  as  1647,  Richard 
Cutts  and  John  Cutting  sent  a  sharp  remonstrance  to  the 
General  Court  against  the  practices  of  one  John  Reynolds, 
who,  "  contrary  to  an  order  of  court,  which  sayeth,  '  No 
woman  shall  live  on  the  Isles  of  Shoals,'  hath  not  only 
brought  his  wife  hither,  with  an  intention  to  live  here  and 
abide ;  but  also  hath  brought  upon  Hog  Island  a  great 
stock  of  goats  and  swine,  which,  by  destroying  much  fish, 
do  great  damage  to  your  petitioners  and  others,  and  also 


SEASIDE   RESORTS. 


59 


10 


lat 


ISO 


spoil  the  spring  of  water  upon  the  island,  rendering  it  un- 
fit for  any  manner  of  use,  which  affords  tlie  only  relief  and 
supply  to  all  the  rest  of  the  islands  ;  your  petitioners 
therefore  pray  that  the  act  of  court  may  be  put  in  execu- 
tion for  the  removal  of  all  women  from  inhabiting  hero, 
and  that  said  Reynolds  may  be  ordered  to  remove  his 
goats  and  swine  from  the  island  without  delay."  The 
General  Court  ordered  Reynolds  to  remove  his  goats  and 
8 wine  within  thirty  days ;  but  "as  to  the  removal  of  the 
wife,  it  is  thought  fit  by  the  court  that,  if  no  further  com- 
plaint come  against  her,  she  may  enjoy  the  company  of 
her  husband."  Women  have  been  tolerated  here  ever 
since ;  more  than  tolerated,  to  speak  truly ;  and  when 
the  daily  steamer  approaches,  the  first  effort  is  to 
count  through  the  telescope  the  number  of  women  on 
board. 

These  islands  were  once  agitated  by  revolution.  Possi- 
bly, it  was  the  first  organized  rebellion  in  North- America, 
though  it  never  got  beyond  organization.  It  originated 
with  the  clergy.  A  quarrel  between  Rev.  Mr.  Gibson  and 
Rev.  Mr.  Larkham,  in  1643,  which  was  wholly  personal  at 
first,  led  to  a  revolt  of  the  islanders  against  the  govern- 
ment of  Massachusetts,  which  then  claimed  and  held  the 
islands.  The  Rev.  Gibson,  by  whom  the  revolt  was  insti- 
gated, before  it  came  to  open  war,  made  his  own  submis- 
sion, and  persuaded  the  islanders  to  renew  their  allegiance, 
and  there  was  a  general  amnesty  by  tacit  consent.  Gib- 
son and  Larkham  are  not  the  only  pastors  of  note  and  in- 
fluence in  the  history  of  these  islands.  Twenty  years 
after  them  flourished  the  Rev.  John  Brock,  who  had  such 
power  in  prayer  as  to  restore  children  apparently  dead, 
and  to  raise  sunken  boats  from  the  ocean.  The  details  of 
his  achievements  are  preserved  in  authentic  records.    It 


I' 


If 


< 


It- 


60 


SEASIDE   RESORTS. 


does  not  appear,  however,  that  ho  exercised  his  faith  upon 
dead  adults,  or  any  craft  larger  than  a  fishing-smack. 

Hotels. — At  Bar  Harbor,  Koberts's  Hotel ;  at  South- 
west Harbor,  ('lark's  and  Freeman's.  Terms  low.  Season, 
from  June  to  November. 

EASTPORT. 

The  uttermost  point  of  the  Atlantic  coast  under  protec- 
tion of  the  Stars  and  Stripes  is  Eastport,  Maine — a  i^lace 
worthy  of  visit,  if  only  for  that  reason.  It  is,  however, 
interesting  for  its  own  natural  attractions  ;  for  more  charm- 
ing scenes,  on  land  and  on  sea,  th:\n  are  here,  can  rarely 
be  found.  The  Passamaquoddy  Bay  extends  inland  pome 
15  miles,  and  is,  perhaps,  10  miles  in  breadth.  Its  shores 
are  worderiu  Jy  irregular  and  picturesque,  and  the  many 
islands  which  stud  its  deop  waters  help  much  in  the  com- 
position of  pictures  to  be  enjoyed  and  remembered.  Ca- 
lais stands  at  the  head  of  navigation,  on  the  Saint  Croix 
River.  Tho  lumber  trade  is  large,  and  ship-building  is 
extensively  carried  on.  It  is  connected  with  Saint  Ste- 
phen's, in  New-Brunswick,  by  four  bridges.  The  Calais 
and  Baring  Railwa}  connects  the  town  with  Milltown  and 
Baring.  From  Baring  the  Lewey's  Island  Railway  ex- 
tends 17  miles  to  Princeton.    Population,  GOOO. 

Eastport  is  234  miles  north-east  of  Portland,  and  is 
reached  thence  and  from  Boston  by  regular  steamboat 
communication  to  and  from  Saint  John's,  N.  B.  Steam- 
boats run  also  to  Calais  and  places  en  route,  30  miles  above 
at  the  head  of  navigation,  on  the  Saint  Croix  River.  The 
town  is  charmingly  built  on  Moose  Island,  which  embraces 
2000  acres,  and  is  connected  to  the  mainland  of  Perry  by 
a  bridge ;  and  by  ferries  with  Pembroke,  Lul  >ec,  and  the 
adjoining  British  islands.  Fort  Sullivan  is  its  shield  and 
buckler  against  any  possible  foes  from  without. 


SEASIDE  RESORTS. 


61 


THE  NEff-IIAMPSniRE   COAST. 


■♦-♦♦- 


IS 

loat 
un- 
love 
lie 
Lces 

I  the 
land 


PORTSMOUTH-ISLE  OF  SHOALS-RYE. 

PoRTS^rouTTT,  N.  II.,  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of 
Nuw-En^hmd  cities.  It  is  easily  accessible  to  the  tourist, 
lying  iu  the  direct  lino  of  the  travel  to  the  Wliite  Moun- 
tains, to  Portland,  Montreal,  or  the  Isle  of  Shoals.  It  is 
on  the  Eastern  Railway,  and  can  be  reached  by  a  ride  of 
two  hours  and  a  half  from  either  Portland  or  Bostcm. 
Travelers  from  Winnipisiogee,  the  faTuous  lake  of  New- 
Hampshire,  can,  by  taking  ears  at  Concord  or  at  Dover,  be 
carried  by  a  short  journey  to  this  city.  Like  Newbury- 
port  and  Salem,  it  has  seen  its  most  lively  days.  Unless 
some  unexpected  change  in  the  course  of  trade  should 
occur,  it  will  never  again  be  the  bustling  town  of  1812. 
But,  unlike  these  sister  cities  of  the  New-England  Coast, 
it  does  not  lament  the  loss  of  commerce  and  bewail  the 
past  opportunities  which  once  made  it  a  rival  of  Boston.  A 
refreshing  calm  has  settled  upon  the  inhabitants,  who 
lead  a  life  of  unaspiring  tranriuillity,  which  would  have 
charmed  the  soul  of  Irving  liatL  he  seen  it,  as  it  did  that 
of  Hawthorne,  who  came,  and  saw,  and  was  enraptured. 
The  absence  of  the  rush  and  c^'ntention  which  character- 
ize towns  of  a  smaller  size  but  ol  a  different  history,  is  a 
great  attraction  to  the  traveler.  The  evidences  of  unosten- 
tatious Avealth,  the  ancient  buildings,  the  high  houses, 
large  gardens,  and  shaded  stre>  ts,  give  constant  gratifica- 
tion to  the  visitor  who  is  transported  from  the  clatter  and 
dust  of  travel  into  an  atmosphere  of  repose.  In  the  sub- 
urbs he  can  not  fail  to  find  many  a  spot  by  nature  fitted 


(( 


For  poet's  dream  or  summer  idyll;" 


02 


SEASIDE   BESOBTS. 


and  never  yet  camo  liitlier  a  traveler  who  did  not  confess 
that,  however  far  he  may  have  wandered  on  this  conthient 
or  beyond  the  seas,  he  has  found  no  lovelier  pceiies. 

The  Navy- Yard  presents  an  attractiv^o  feature  to  the 
stranger.  It  is  upon  the  Maine  side  of  the  Piscataqua, 
whose  broad  stream  rolls  downward  to  the  Atlantic  be- 
tween fair  country-seats  and  rich  meadows,  till  it  sweeps 
against  the  venerable  wharves  of  the  city.  The  number 
of  the  workmen  has  been  reduced  to  a  *'  peace  basis,"  and 
the  scene  is  by  no  means  as  animated  as  during  the  four 
years  of  the  late  war.  Tlio  i^urchase  by  the  Government 
of  Seavey's  Island  adds  considerably  to  the  area  of  the 
yard.  Here  new  houses  for  the  officers  will  soon  be  erect- 
ed, and  cool  and  pheasant  summer  quarters  established. 

A  steamer  runs  every  hour  to  and  from  the  yard,  land- 
ing her  passengers  at  the  foot  of  Daniel  Street  in  Ports- 
mouth. It  is  a  capacious  vessel,  and  there  is  always  room 
for  a  party  of  sight-seers. 

In  Portsmouth  are  various  objects  of  peculiar  interest. 
Among  them  are  the  antique  church  of  St.  Jolm^  the 
Athenaeum,  the  Custom-House,  and  the  residence  of  Gov- 
ernor Langdon,  described  in  a  recent  Atlantic  by  Haw- 
thorne. Near  the  Navy- Yard  is  the  tomb  of  Sir  William 
Pepperell,  well  known  in  the  history  of  the  State  as  a  suc- 
cessful merchant  and  popular  ruler  of  the  province.  Sev- 
eral elegant  country-seats  are  around  the  mansion  which 
once  was  his,  and  which  now  is  tenanted  by  the  sole  relic 
of  the  Sparhawk  family.  On  this  side  of  the  river  is  Fort 
Macleary,  a  century  old,  now  remodeled  and  strengthened. 
A  short  ride  takes  the  traveler  from  Portsmouth  to 
Newcastle,  crossing,  by  several  bridges,  branches  of  the 
Piscataqua,  and  furnishing  beautiful  views  of  the  city  and 
of  Little  Harbor.     Fort  Constitution  stands  at  the  en- 


SEASIDE   RESORTS. 


C3 


i  'L 


to 

LG 

id 


trance  of  the  lower  harbor,  and  tenninatcs,  witli  its  h'lffh 
walls,  this  road.  These  walls  are  of  granite,  and  upon 
them  work  is  still  progressing. 

There  are  various  hotels  in  Portsmouth,  of  which  the 
oldest  and  perhaps  the  beat  known  is  the  Rockingham 
House.  This  was  once  the  private  home  of  one  of  New- 
Hampshire's  early  governors.  It  is  noticed  by  Holmes, 
in  his  £JLnG  Venner,  as  a  famous  hostelry  of  olden  time. 
The  Philbrick  House,  conducted  by  the  veteran  of  Rye 
Bench,  the  City  Hotel,  and  the  Franklin,  are  establish- 
ments where  the  stranger  can  find  comfort  at  a  reasonable 
price. 

The  Isle  of  Shoals  is  11  miles  from  the  city.  A  steam- 
er runs  daily  from  Railway  Wharf,  connecting  with  the 
morning  trains  from  Boston,  Portland,  Concord,  Dover, 
and  Great  Falls.  The  voyage  is  but  an  hour  in  length, 
and  the  scenery,  as  the  boat  passes  down  the  river  through 
the  Narrows,  stemming  bravely  the  rushing  tide,  or  borne 
6  ^rfing  upon  it,  is  most  delightful.  Sliding  by  Fort  Con- 
st^tutV  :i  and  the  Whale's  Back  Light-House,  the  steamer 
16  Boon  ipon  the  wide  Atlantic.  Directly  in  front  is  the 
d'Tii  u.!'line  of  the  islands,  while  behind  stretches  the 
white  iiue  of  the  coast.  In  the  distance  rise  the  hills  of 
Nevr  Hampshire  and  the  blue  sides  of  Agamenticus,  the 
high  mountain  of  York.  As  the  boat  approaches  the  Ap- 
pledore  Island,  the  hotel  unfolds  its  size  and  proportions. 
Landing  by  row-boats,  the  traveler  ascends,  by  an  easy 
path,  to  the  portico,  where  an  expectant  crowd  is  assem- 
bled. 

The  "Appledore"  is  conducted  by  Oscar  and  Cedric 
Laighton,  whose  father  is  well  remembered  as  the  former 
proprietor.  Hi8  grave  is  now  one  of  the  interesting  and 
noteworthy  spots  upon  the  rocky  surface  of  the  island. 


t  f 


I 


64 


SEASIDE   RESORTS. 


Hero  also  are  uuried  tlie  unfortunate  crew  of  a  Spanish 
vessel  driven  upon  the  cliffs  on  a  winter's  night.  This 
incident  has  been  made  the  subject  of  an  effective  poem 
by  Longfellow. 

The  steamboat  reaches  the  Appledore  at  1  o'clock  each 
day,  and  starts  upon  its  homeward  trip  at  3  p.m.  Visitors 
to  the  other  islands  of  the  group  are  carried  across  in 
small  boats.  The  distance  is  short  to  Gosport,  where  is  a 
small  village  of  some  30  houses,  a  church,  and  a  school- 
house.  The  population  are  hardy  fishermen,  among 
whom  can  still  be  traced  the  Portuguese  features  of  the 
original  colonizers  from  the  fleet  of  John  Smith,  by  whom 
these  islands  were  discovered.  A  disaster  fell  upon  them 
a  year  ago,  in  the  shape  of  fire.  Half  their  little  settle- 
ment was  consumed  in  a  single  night ;  and  this  calamity, 
to  so  hard-working  a  people,  excited  much  sympathy 
throughout  New-England.  Assistance  was  given  them, 
and  they  are  now  recoveri  i^  from  their  losses. 

Near  by  is  White  Island,  where  a  revolving  light  casts 
a  crimson  glow  over  a  sea  which  sleeps  through  the  sum- 
mer months,  but  which  rises  in  the  winter  storms  with 
mighty  strength.  The  other  islands  are  known  by  the 
euphonious  names  of  Smutty-Nose  and  Hog.  They  are 
visited  only  by  sportsmen,  and  are  a  refuge  for  innume- 
rable sea-fowl. 

Amid  this  group,  the  summer  weeks  go  by  with  many 
delights.  Fishing,  shooting,  sailing,  and  bathing  are 
daily  to  be  obtained  ;  and  not  the  least  attraction  is  the 
constant  charm  of  the  sea,  the  breezes,  and  the  fair  per- 
spective. 

The  beaches  of  Rye  are  becoming  each  year  more  popu- 
lar. They  are  reached  by  the  Eastern  Railway  at  the 
stations  of  Hampton,  Greenland,  or  Portsmouth.    From 


SEASIDE  RESORTS. 


65 


the 


Greenland  and  Hampton  a  stage  runs  regularly  on  the 
arrival  of  the  trains  from  Boston  or  Portland.  From 
Portsmouth,  the  distance  is  7  miles  over  most  excellent 
roads. 

The  largest  hotel  is  the  Ocean  House,  of  which  Job 
Jenncss  &  Son  are  proprietors.  Near  this  are  the  Wash- 
ington and  Surf  Houses,  and  numerous  cottages  for  board- 
ers. At  the  other  end  of  the  beach  is  the  Atlantic  House, 
formerly  known  as  Philbrick's,  and  +he  new  and  capa- 
cious Farragut  House,  which  1  as  experienced  two  most 
successful  seasons.  Scattered  along  the  roadside  are  plea- 
sant boarding-houses,  crowded  during  the  heat  of  July 
and  August. 

All  these  hotels  are  of  excellent  character  and  well  pat- 
ronized. The  fields  and  lawns  are  filled  with  croquet- 
players,  and  the  long,  wide  beach  with  bathers,  sports- 
men, and  carriages.  The  scene  is  always  lively  by  day^ 
and  at  night,  hops,  germans,  and  private  theatricals  give 
to  the  guest  unfailing  excitement  and  variety. 

The  drives  through  the  surrounding  country  are  invit- 
ing, and  the  neighboring  villages  of  Hampton,  Greenland, 
and  Exeter  are  thoroughly  explored  each  season  by  gay 
parties  from  the  hotels  of  Rye. 


l<   Hi 


my 
are 
the 
)er- 


)pu- 

the 

From 


NEW-BEDFOKD  AND  MARTHA'S  VINEYARD. 

Although  in  the  city  of  New-Bedford  there  are  no 
hotels  devoted  exclusively  to  the  entertahiment  of 
summer  tourists,  and  no  places  of  great  historical 
interest  or  natural  curiosity,  yet  perhaps  there  is  no 
place  along  the  whole  coast  of  New-England  better 
fitted  by  nature  for  the  quiet  enjoyment  of  the  warm 
geason.  This  city  is  situated  on  the  side  of  a  long 
hill,  sloping  gradually  to  the  Acushnet  River,  and  is 


r 


66 


SEASIDE   RESORTS. 


tliusby  position  one  of  the  cleanliest,  and  consequently 
Ileal tliiest,  localities  in  New-England.  It  is  in  a  direct  line 
south  of  Boston,  about  50  miles  distant,  and  may  be 
readied  from  New- York  by  the  way  of  Boston,  or  more 
easily  by  taking  the  shore  line  through  Connecticut  and 
changing  cars  at  Mansfield,  Mass.  The  most  frequented 
route,  however,  is  by  the  New- York  and  Bristol  line  of 
steamboats  through  the  Long  Island  Sound,  which  in 
l^leasant  weather  is  delightful.  The  boat  leaves  New- 
York  about  5  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  and  reaches 
Bristol  early  in  the  morning,  where  passengers  take  the 
cars  tor  New-Bedford.  There  is  also  a  propeller  running 
once  or  twice  a  week  from  New- York  to  New-Bedford, 
chiefly  devoted  to  the  transportation  of  freight. 

The  Acushnet  River  is  nearly  a  mile  wide  and  flows 
through  Buzzard's  Bay  out  into  the  ocean.  The  water  is 
very  clear  and  the  shores  sandy  and  well  suited  for  bath- 
ing purposes. 

During  the  summer,  this  place  is  resorted  to  mainly  by 
travelers  who  prefer  the  quiet  pleasures  of  a  home  near 
ilie  sea  to  the  attractions  of  the  more  popular  resorts  of 
wealth  and  fashion.  Perhaps  there  is  no  city  in  America 
of  its  size  and  wealth  where  so  few  are  tempted  to  go 
elsewhere  for  summer  recreation ;  an(.  he  few  who  leave 
go  rather  for  health  than  pleasure,  desirous  of  taking  the 
milder  air  of  the  inland  towns. 

There  are  many  fine  drives  in  and  about  New-Bedford, 
one  extending  several  miles  out  into  Buzzard's  Bay  on  a 
narrow  tongue  of  land  laid  out  and  graded  at  great  ex 
pense  by  the  city  exclusively  for  purposes  of  pleasure. 
During  the  sultry  summer  weatiier  the  cool  breezes  from 
the  sea  render  this  drive  a  most  i«-ttractive  resort,  and  by 
some  it  has  been  regarded  the  finest  drive  in  America. 


w 


SEASIDE    RESORTS. 


a 
ire. 

ica. 


The  extreme  point  of  this  road  commands  a  fine  view  of 
New-Bedford,  the  broad  river  which  sexmrates  it  from  the 
town  of  Fairliaven,  the  Elizabeth  Islands,  and,  afar  off  but 
plainly  discernible,  the  famous  cliff  of  Guy  Head  in  Mar 
tha's  Vineyard.  But  aside  from  healthy  climate,  the  main 
attractions  of  New-Bedford  and  vicinity  are  the  rare  facili- 
ties here  afforded  for  bathing,  boating,  sailing,  and  fishing, 
and  the  various  pleasant  resorts  for  pleasure,  to  which  ex 
cursions  are  continually  being  made  from  the  city  during 
the  summer,  both  by  land  and  by  water. 

As  most  of  the  citizens  are  at  home  during  the  summer, 
ontertaining  their  friends  from  abroad,  there  is  a  full 
supply  of  all  the  various  methods  of  sea-side  recreation. 
No  place  along  the  coast  has  done  ijiore  to  popularize  in 
modern  times  the  felicities  of  the  old-fashioned  New-Eng- 
land clam-bake. 

The  whaling  enterprise  in  which  the  people  of  this  vi- 
cinity are  engaged,  being  carried  on  across  the  sea  far 
away  from  home  and  mainly  by  the  labors  of  strangers 
coming  among  them,  gives  to  all  classes  an  unusual 
amount  of  leisure,  which  their  peculiar  situation  affords 
them  ample  opportunities  to  enjoy. 

The  hotels  of  New-Bedford  are  :  the  Parker  House,  cen- 
tral, commodious,  and  well  kept ;  the  Mansion  House,  and 
various  smaller  public  houses.  There  are  also  a  large 
number  of  private  families  with  whom,  at  less  expense,  a 
greater  enjoyment  of  the  season  may  be  derived.  There 
are  by  the  sea-side,  in  the  neighboring  towns,  numerous 
places  also,  where  during  the  summer  the  houses  are 
opened  to  strangers.  In  the  town  of  Marion,  about  10 
miles  from  New-Bedford,  there  is  on  Great  Hill,  near  the 
shore  of  Buzzard's  Bay,  in  one  of  the  most  delightful  ''^ots 
of  New-England,  an  excellently  kept  hotel,  which  u.  o  lor 


I  \ 


>  1 1 


53 


■i !«- wi'"«:fl"",i"  uj  ,iii"i»JnmBf»-»<»«w«n  ill  inmiir^wimii;!^ 


68 


SEASIDE  RESORTS. 


I 


I 


■■:! 


M'    t'- 


several  years  furnislied  a  home  for  hosts  of  summer  tou- 
rists. 

Travelers  wishing  to  pass  a  few  weeks  in  the  vicinity 
of  New-Bedford  should  by  all  means  so  arrange  as  to 
select  that  part  of  the  month  of  August  during  which  If 
held  the  great  Wesleyan  Camp-Meeting  on  Martha's  Vine 
yard.  Steamboats  leave  New-Bedford  twice  a  day,  carry 
ing  people  to  the  island  from  all  parts  of  the  State. 
Every  one  living  in  the  vicinity  of  New-Bedford  expects 
to  pass  at  least  one  day  in  the  year  at  the  camp-meeting. 
The  island  of  Martha's  Vineyard  is  about  30  mileg 
from  New-Bedford.  In  reaching  it,  the  boats  pass  through 
Buzzard's  Bay  by  the  islands  of  Pasque,  Nashewena,  and 
Nanshou,  (the  first  now  under  the  control  of  the  New- 
York  Club,  and  used  by  them  as  a  fishing  and  yachting 
headquarters,  and  the  last,  the  summer  residence  of  Hon. 
John  M.  Forbes,  of  Boston,  by  whom  it  is  owned,)  then 
through  Quick's  Hole  and  across  the  Vineyard  Sound  to 
the  "  Camp-Meeting  Landing,"  on  the  east  side  of  the 
island.  The  meetings  are  held  in  a  magnificent  grove 
owned  by  the  trustees  of  the  association,  which,  though  con 
secrated  especially  to  religious  worship,  has  in  latter  years 
become  a  general  resort  for  healthful  and  honorable  recre- 
ation. Small  cottages  and  tents  have  been  erected  in 
great  numbers,  some  of  them  with  great  elegance.  The 
grove  is  laid  out  in  avenues  radiating  from  the  central 
place  of  x^ublic  worship,  and  others  running  «omewhat  in 
the  manner  of  concentric  circles,  the  inner  circle  being 
lined  with  larger  tents,  which  are  used  by  tlie  members 
of  the  various  parishes  for  domestic  and  religious  pur- 
poses. Oftentimes  tliero  t.ro  an  Jiiaay  as  fifteen  or  twen'^'" 
thousand  persons  present  at  one  tir.ie;  but  the  arrange- 
ments made  by  the  trusteeb  1  •■'  t.o  comfort,  convenience. 


Ill 

lie 

ral 

in 


SEASIDE   RESORTS. 


60 


and  happiness  of  all  in  attendance  have  become  so  per- 
fect that,  notwiti'Standing  by  far  the  largest  part  are  pre- 
sent for  recreation,  any  disturbance  or  indecorum  seldom 
if  ever  occurs.  Ample  provision  is  also  made  for  board- 
ing and  lodging  visitors  at  the  Grove,  though  the  more 
common  custom  is  to  go  and  return  the  same  day.  Tlie 
fare  on  the  boats  is  very  small,  and  the  trip  across  the  Bay 
and  Sound  is  charming. 

But  let  not  the  traveler  fail  to  go  to  Nantucket  and  see 
the  islanders.  This  island  is  nominally  under  the  govern- 
ment of  the  United  States.  They  have  a  first-rate  hotel, 
the  Ocean  House,  well  ordered  and  kept ;  the  Adams 
House,  less  expensive  but  of  excellent  character,  its  host 
and  hostess  attentive,  its  tables  lil)erally  spread  with  well- 
cooked  food,  and  its  lodging-rooms  clean  and  spacious. 
There  are  also  numerous  boarding-houses.  Visitors  fond 
of  fishing  will  not  go  awpy  disappointed.  First,  there  is 
the  shark-fishing,  which  is  a  sport  almost  equal  in  excite- 
ment uo  the  hunting  of  the  buffalo  with  the  lasso.  The 
shark  is  the  Ishmael  of  fishers,  he  has  no  friends.  The 
timid  dtisire  to  keep  out  of  his  company.  They  are  willing 
to  let  him  alone,  contented  if  he  will  let  them  alone ; 
but  bolder  spirits,  when  they  go  to  Nantucket,  at  once 
plan  to  go  sharking.  The  first  thing  is  to  engage  the 
servlccB  of  an  experienced  skipper  provided  with  a  stout 
boat,  for  sixarks  are  not  fond  of  being  hooked.  But  boat 
p.nd  skipper  being  provided,  you  start  in  the  morning,  first 
for  the  blue-fish  ground  ;  fV)r  fish  eat  fish,  and  the  blue-fish 
is  bait  for  the  shark.  Talcing  the  bait  is  a  good  introduc- 
tion to  tLdving  the  shark  ;  for  there  is  no  fishing,  unless  it 
be  spearing  of  salmon,  quite  equal  in  excitement  to  blue- 
fishing.  The  blue-fish  is  deceived  b^'  appearances  ;  he  is 
caught  \N'ith  a  hook  inserted  in  a  bit  of  pewter  shaped 


•ill 


10 


SEASIDE   RESORTS. 


'■\i 

0  ■ 

!: 

I 

III 


. 


somewhat  like  a  smelt,  and  about  as  large.     The  line  is 
trailed  by  the  boat,  and  as  the  bait  is  simply  drawn  fiash- 
incr  throufifh  the  water,  tlio  blue-fish  darts  at  it,  and,  seiz- 
ing  it,  is  drawn  to  the  boat,  not   without  a  vigorous 
struggle  for  liberty,  and  sometimes,  when  not  firmly  hook- 
ed, he  throws  out  the  hook  and  is  off.     When  this  minor 
sport  has  been  sufficiently  enjoyed  and  bait  enough  ob- 
tained, the  party  stpr'uS  for  the  haunts  of  the  shark.     Ar- 
rived at  th«  fishing-ground,  a  big  piece  of  blue-fish  is  put 
on  to  a  big  hook,  and  the  baited  hook  is  dropped.     Next 
the  hook  is  a  fathom  or  two  of  iron  chain,  for  the  hooked 
shark  would  make  short  work  of  hempen  line.     Presently 
a  dull  tug  is  fait,  and  the  line  begins  to  run  out ;  when  a 
few  fathoms  have  been  taken  out,  the  lasso  is  held  fast 
and  the  shark  is  firmly  hooked  and  drawn  toward  the 
boat.     This  unexpected  operation  is  not  received  very 
pleasantly ;  and  the  guerrilla  of  the  sea  looks  any  thing  but 
amiable  as,  snapping  and  struggling,  he  is  drawn  to  the 
side  of  the  boat,  where  a  few  vigorous  blows  with  a  club 
upon  his  nose  reduce  him  to  submission. 

Besides  this  gigantic  sport,  Nantucket  can  offer  the 
tourist  tamer  fishing  of  porgies  and  perch.  In  the  height 
of  the  season  they  have  "  squankams,"  or  clam-bakes,  as 
the  "  ofi-island  folks"  call  them.  A  large  party — the  larger 
the  better,  but  well  assorted — assembles  at  Quidnit  or  at 
Quaise,  Abram's  or  at  Mattaket,  and  spends  tlie  day  in  in- 
nocent mirth,  stimulated  by  song  and  dance  and  ramble, 
and  regalement  of  roasted  clams,  and  other  dainties,  to 
which  the  free  air  of  the  plains  fresh  from  the  ocean  gives 
relish.  The  evenings  at  Nantucket  in  summer  are  en- 
livened by  pleasant  dancing-parties  among  the  hospitable 
people  of  the  place,  for  Nantucket  still  merits  its  old  repu- 
tation of  being  hospitable  to  strangers.    The  little  village 


ing- 
deli^ 
and 
had. 


I'  ill 


SEASIDE   KESORTS. 


n 


of  Siasconset  lies  on  tlio  soutli-eastcrn  bank  of  tlio  island 
on  its  very  verge  ;  and  north  of  this  percli  is  Saacoty  Head, 
about  a  mile  distant  and  risinfj  about  90  feet  above 
the  sea,  which  lies  below  with  only  a  narrow  bench.  Who- 
ever has  read  Irving's  story  of  his  musings  at  the  main- 
top of  the  ship  which  carried  him  to  Europe,  and  sympa- 
thizes with  his  feelings,  would  enjoy  a  stroll  from  Siascon- 
set to  Sancoty,  especially  if  he  were  to  climb  to  the  gal- 
lery of  the  lofty  light-house,  where  he  can  look  out  on  an 
expanse  of  ocean  limited  only  by  the  shores  of  the  eastern 
continent.  Here  lies  what  to  very  many  is  the  peculiar 
charm  of  Nantucket.  Extensive  unfenced  plains  and 
gentle  undulations,  rising  here  and  there  into  very  con- 
siderable elevations,  from  which  an  extensive  view  of  the 
ocean  is  enjoyed,  air  sweetened  by  the  fragrance  of  wild 
herbage,  perfect  seclusion  if  desired,  and  yet  nearness  of 
human  life  and  just  as  much  of  social  intercourse  as  one 
desires.  Few  visitors  go  away  from  Nantucket  disappoint- 
ed in  their  expectation  of  enjoyment.  To  those  who  are 
not  in  search  of  fashionable  amusements,  but  real  rest  and 
recreation,  a  sojourn  at  Siasconset,  or  any  other  dwelling- 
place  at  the  east  end  of  the  island,  will  be  found  full  of 
comfort  and  delight,  and  can  be  found  at  few  other  water- 
ing-places or  summer  resorts.  Newport  and  Naliant  are 
delightful,  especially  Newport ;  but  the  same  seclusion 
and  naturalness  of  locality  and  surroundings  can  not  be 
had,  even  there. 

STAMFORD,   CT. 

Stamford  is  located  on  Long  Island  Sound,  34  miles 
from  New- York,  to  which  head  centre  it  is  linked  by 
the  New-Haven  Railway,  13  trains  running  each  way 
per  day,  and    by  a   steamboat   making    regular    trips. 


IK 

m 


r? 


■'i  ' 


12 


SEASIDE   RESORTS. 


It  lias  well-kept  roads,  schools  of  a  high  order,  (of  which 
that  of  Mr.  James  Betts  is  worthy  of  especial  mention,)  sea 
breezes,  commanding  sites  for  houses,  a  population  orderly, 
moral,  and  refined,  prospects  unsurpassed  for  quiet  loveli- 
ness, and  the  church  of  your  choice.  It  is  no  wonder  that 
such  a  combination  of  attractions  has  arrested  the  search 
of  so  many  of  those  who  leave  the  lower  end  of  the  busy 
city  with  plethoric  pockets  and  satisfactory  bank  accounts. 
Stamford,  as  a  suburb  of  New- York,  is  scarcely  a  score 
of  years  old ;  but  Stamford,  as  a  quiet,  well-to-do  New-Eng- 
land village,  reaches  back  to  the  days  of  the  Pequods  and 
Miles  Standish.  For  several  generations  it  lay  dreaming 
on  the  margin  of  the  Sound,  the  gently  swelling  hills 
running  down  in  long  emerald  slopes  to  the  well-washed 
shore  ;  and  these  were  cultivated  by  the  descendants  of 
those  early  Connecticut  farmers,  who  settled  Windsor  and 
Hartford — men  who  feared  God,  reverenced  the  Sabbath, 
and  were  at  pea  ;;e  with  their  fellows ;  people  who,  like 
Mrs.  Stowe's  Uncle  Edward,  were  as  upright  downright 
good  men  as  ever  labored  six  days  and  rested  on  the  sev- 
enth. Prominent  among  them  was  Abraham  Davenport, 
the  Connecticut  worthy,  who  has  of  late  been  made  im- 
mortal by  the  muse  of  Whittier,  and  still,  near  the  spot 

•'  Where  the  Sound 
Drinks  the  small  tribute  of  the  Mianus," 

a  descendant  of  that  early  hero,  in  his  beautiful  sea-side 
villa,  leads  a  pure  life,  and  awaits  a  "  tranquil  death."  On 
one  of  the  growing  streets  of  the  village  the  inhabitants  still 
point  to  a  structure  which  nothing  but  rich  associations 
has  saved  from  the  march  of  improvement.  Here,  for  a 
short  time,  Washington  had  his  head-quarters  during  the 
Revolutionary  war.    As  soon  as  one  learns  this  fact,  how 


"VSKJ 


SEASIDE   RESOETS. 


13 


-side 
On 
still 
tions 
for  a 
the 
how 


the  narrow  windows,  the  low  coiling,  tlie  bullring  walls, 
and  the  rickety  roof  take  on  a  character  of  dignity,  almost 
of  sanctity  !  We  look  with  a  feeling  little  less  than  vene- 
ration upon  the  worm-eaten  threshold,  when  we  remember 
the  august  form  that  almost  a  hundred  years  ago  passed 
over  it. 

From  the  era  of  the  Revolution  to  the  era  of  the  rail- 
ways, the  place  had  a  slow,  natural  growth,  the  streets 
gradually  extending,  and  a  somewhat  larger  fleet  of  coast- 
ing schooners  rocking  g*  utly  on  the  shoal  and  narrow  har- 
bor.   But  since  the  scream  of  the  iron  horse  l^roke  the 
rural  charm,  New- York  has  laid  a  finger  on  the  soil,  villas, 
palaces,  mansions  have  sprung  up,  thousand-dollar  teams 
prance  the  streets,  their  owners  wrapped  in  gorgeous  af- 
ghans,  their  drivers  stifle  with  buckram  and  spangled  with 
gold  lace.  Scholars,  as  well  as  merchants,  have  been  attract- 
ed hither,  men  of  solid  attainments  as  well  as  men  heavy  in 
Wall  street.    On  the  verge  of  a  hill  commanding  a  view 
of  the  glittering  expanse  beneath,  stands  a  stone  structure 
having  an  air  of  mediaeval  repose  and  seclusion.    It  looks 
like  the  home  of  a  scholar.    Here  Dr.  John  Lord  prepares 
those  recondite  and  elcq[uent  lectures  for  which  he  has 
long  been  distinguished,  and  from  here,  more  recently,  he 
sent  forth  The  Old  Roman  World,  that  brilliant  and  influ- 
ential addition  to  our  list  of  historical  writings.    Prof.  Wil- 
liam H.  Woodbury,  the  eminent  German  scholar,  whose 
text-books  have  a  world-wide  reputation,  also  has  his  home 
here  •  and  at  the  head  of  a  chief  avenue  lives  Mr.  Joseph 
B.  Lyman,  a  gentleman  of  rising  literary  celebrity,  who  oc- 
cupies a  responsible  position  on  the  staff  of  one  of  the  great 
dailies  of  the  metropolis,  and  whose  accomplished  wife  is 
a  frequent  and  valued  contributor  to  several  well-known 
periodicals.  At  a  little  distance  is  the  home  of  Mr.  Wm.  W. 


',  f\ 


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li 


SEASIDE  RESORTS. 


,  111 

•4 


i 


Gillespio,  of  tlie  excellent  Advocate,  a  newspaper  well  sus- 
tained and  appreciated,  and  having  an  enviable  local  repu- 
tation. Still  further  on  is  the  simple  residence  of  the  Hon. 
Truman  Smith,  once  a  name  of  power  in  State  and  national 
l^olitics.  Advancing  years  have  quenched  the  vigor  of 
mind  and  the  rugged  eloquence  that  made  him  famous  in 
his  prime  ;  but  they  have  not  abated  the  soundness  of  his 
judgment  or  the  warmth  of  his  patriotism. 

But  looked  at  merely  as  a  place  of  resort  for  the  summer 
months,  Stamford  really  offers  rare  inducements  to  people 
who  consider  quiet  comfort  as  more  to  be  desired  than  os- 
tentation and  empty  show.  Of  this  class  little  less  than  a 
thousand,  mostly  New-Yorkers,  come  hither  every  season. 
The  place  possesses  an  enchanting  combination  of  country 
and  suburban  charms.  There  are  delightful  drives  shaded 
by  patriarchal  elms  and  maples,  and  winding  up  to  }ieights 
from  which  there  is  wealth  of  broad  and  beautiful  views. 
There  are  good  facilities  for  salt-water  bathing,  and  to  those 
partial  to  the  angler's  art  unusual  attractions  are  offered. 
Picnics  are  not  unfrequent,  and  "  The  Cave  "  and  "  Pound 
Rock  '*  are  especially  popular  in  this  connection.  The  lat- 
ter is  a  precipitate  ledge  that  runs  far  into  the  sea,  orna- 
mented with  clumps  of  trees,  beneath  whose  leafy  spray  it 
is  pleasant  to  recline  and  ivatch  the  tides  that  ripple  at  its 
base,  or  look  away  for  many  leagues  on  waters  dotted  with 
snow-white  sails,  or  ruffled  by  great  boats  outward  bound. 

At  a  brief  remove  from  this  peninsula  is  another  of  ex- 
ceeding natural  beauty  known  as  "  Sliippan  Point,"  which 
is  to  be  placed  in  charge  of  a  landscape  gardener,  and  laid 
out  partly  as  a  park  and  partly  as  grounds  for  private  resi- 
dences. It  is  clear  to  see  that  in  a  few  years  it  will  thus 
become  one  of  the  loveliest  features  of  a  lovely  environ,  to 
which,  all  things  considered,  it  is  not  strange  that  those 


SEASIDE   RESORTS. 


75 


who  come  once,  Hliould  wish  to  come  a;?ahi,  or  thiit  tho 
army  of  inviidiTS  should  each  year  bo  augm.iited  by  now 
recruit.s.  If  tho  city  readers,  wearied  wltli  the  "human 
hubbub/'vviil  embark  on  the  pretty  steamer  "  Shippan  "  at 
Fulton  Ferry  some  summer  afternoon,  ho  or  she  will  re- 
ceive kind  care  at  the  hands  of  Captain  Waterbury,  liave  a 
pleasant  sail,  and  at  tho  end  of  tho  journey  find  Stamford, 
of  whose  charms  tho  half  has  not  been  told. 


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23  WIST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4S03 


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'ht  mominim  of  jianatra. 


THE  DOMINIOxX  OF  CANADA. 


LAKE  ONTAEIO  AND  THE  BIVEB  ST.  LAWRENCE. 

We  have  placed  the  Hudson  River  trip  in  the  front  rank 
of  summer  attractions  for  the  tourist  in  accordance,  un- 
questionably, with  popular  opinion ;  aud  the  superior 
claims  of  the  Upper  Mississippi  have  also  received  their 
due  acknowledgment.  The  voyage  down  the  River  Saint 
Lawrence,  however,  is  also  a  river-trip,  and  claims  high 
place  ;  and  if  all  these  were  to  be  directly  compared,  with- 
out considering  the  great  difference  between  them,  it  would 
be  hard  indeed  to  give  either  great  trip  only  the  second 
place.  The  three  routes  are,  however,  vastly  dissimilar 
and  each  incomparable.  The  professed  tourist  never  tliinks 
of  omitting  either ;  and  the  chance  traveler  who  peruses 
these  pages  wl  ile  sailing  upon  the  emerald  waters  of  On- 
tario or  the  Saint  Lawrence  will  be  quite  ready  to  admit 
that  "  all  the  world,"  some  time  or  other,  has  honored  that 
great  excursion.  We  trust  that  other  readers  will  see 
enough  in  the  summary  view  we  give  below  to  leave  no 
longer  unsought  so  delightful  and  inspiriting  an  enjoy- 
ment. 

The  Gulf  of  Saint  Lawrence  is  about  250  miles  in  length, 
and  the  rivar  is  the  furthest  navigable  of  any  of  the  waters 
on  the  globe.  From  the  mouth  to  the  harbor  of  Quebec 
the  distance  is  360  miles,  and  vessels  from  Europe  ascend 
to  Montreal,  which  is  180  miles  higher  up  its  course ; 


THE  DOMINION   OF   CANADA. 


if 


wliile  vessels  suited  to  river  navigation  (as  liigli  as  500 
tons  burthen)  may  traverse  uninterruptedly  the  entire 
distance  between  the  sea  md  the  mouth  of  the  Saint 
Louis  River,  at  Fond  du  Lac,  Wisconsin.  In  other  words, 
the  River  Saint  Lawrence,  with  some  little  help  from  man 
in  the  shape  of  canals  here  and  there,  for  the  matter  of 
actual  navigation,  really  comprises  the  waters  called  by 
the  following  names :  Gulf  and  River  Saint  Lawrence, 
Lake  Ontario,  Niagara  River,  Lake  Erie,  Detroit  River, 
Lake  Saint  Clair,  River  Saint  Clair,  (these  three  bodies  of 
water  have  no  more  claim  to  separate  names  than  the 
Saint  Lawrence  proper  between  the  Long  Sault  and  Mon- 
treal, as  W3  shall  see,)  Lake  Huron,  Saut  Sainte  Marie  or 
Saint  Mary's  River,  Lake  Superior,  and  Saint  Louis  River. 
If  the  whole  length  from  the  head  of  Lake  Superior  be 
reckoned,  it  will  be  1910  miles ;  or,  including  the  Saint 
Louis,  the  head  stream  of  that  lake,  2100  miles.  The 
width  of  the  waters  varies  greatly ;  at  the  mouth  of  the 
gulf,  meeting  the  sea,  100  miles ;  at  Tadoussac,  the  en- 
trance, perhaps,  of  the  river  into  the  gulf,  22  miles ;  at 
Lake  Saint  Peter,  above  Quebec,  9  miles  ;  at  Montreal  and 
Quebec,  2  miles,  etc.  The  waters  thus  located  drain  a  ter- 
ritory of  over  400,000  square  miles,  and  the  "  basin"  con- 
tains, it  is  said,  more  than  half  of  all  the  fresh  water  on 
the  globe.  Peculiarly,  therefore,  tliis  great  Northern 
Amazon  may  call  for  our  study  and  admiration.  To  us  it 
will  be  most  interesting — along  the  limited  portion  from 
Niagara  to  Anticosti,  wliich  is  comprised  in  our  present 
plan — because  of  its  "  thousand  isles,"  its  exciting  rapids, 
its  tributary  streams  with  their  rapids  and  falls,  the  con- 
trasting nationalities  and  religions  on  its  opposing  banks, 
the  antiquity  of  its  legends  and  history,  its  cities  and  its 
village-edged  shores,  the  exquisite  beauty  of  its  pernicious 


M 


■*»■ 


THE  DOMINION   OP   CANADA. 


8 


water,  and  last,  but  by  no  means  least,  the  abounding  fish 
witliin  its  own  and  its  tributary  streams. 

The  portion  of  "  tlie  Great  River"  west  of  Lake  Ontario 
will  be  found  described  under  the  proper  titles  ;  our  voyage 
now  begins  where  the  Niagara  ceases  to  disturb  naviga- 
tion, at  the  head  of  Ontario,  and  follows  the  emerald  cur- 
rent until  after  the  ocean  sends  in  upon  it  the  tides  which 
destroy  its  loveliness  and  crown  it  with  grandeur.  The 
routes  by  which  the  traveler  may  reach  Lewiston,  stand- 
ing midway  (7  miles  each  side)  between  Niagara  Falls  and 
Lake  Ontario,  and  at  a  point  where  the  lower  Suspension 
Bridge  kindly  bars  to  navigation  the  foaming  river,  will 
be  found  under  the  article  entitled  Niagara  River,  and 
the  routes  over  the  lake  and  river  may  be  found  at  the  end 
of  this  article.  It  may  be  well,  however,  to  state  here, 
that  tourists,  desiring  for  any  reason  to  omit  the  lake,  or  a 
portion  of  it,  from  their  voyage,  may  take  cars  direct  from 
Niagara  Falls  over  the  New- York  Central  Railway  to  Ro- 
chester, where,  changing  to  train  for  Charlotte,  they  go  to 
the  lake  at  that  point,  (this  will  allow  5  hours  of  Ontario 
sailing  between  Charlotte  and  Sackett's  Harbor,  opposite 
Kingston ;)  or  may  keep  on  to  Syracuse  and  change  to 
Oswego  and  Syracuse  branch  for  Oswego,  or  to  Rome  and 
change  to  Rome,  Watertown,  and  Ogdensburg  road  for 
Sackett's  Harbor,  (a  rather  roundabout  route.)  But  the 
best  way  is  to  take  the  American  Express  steamboats  at 
Lewiston  and  sail  right  through  (changing  at  Ogdeijsburg) 
to  Montreal. 

Having  completed  the  visit  to  Niagara,  then,  with  that 
notable  railway  ride  along  the  brink  of  the  chasm  below 
the  Falls,  let  us  suppose  ourselves  upon  the  deck  of  the 
steamer  which  shall  convey  us  to  Ogdensburg.  Behind 
us  is  the  lower  Suspension  Bridge,  at  one  side  is  the  vil- 


I 


TUB   DOMINION    OF    CANADA. 


h. 


i        > 


lage  of  Lewiston,  and  opposite  lies  the  Canadian  village  of 
Queenstown.    Neither  of  these  places  possess  much  inter- 
est for  tourists.    The  Brock  Monument,  at  Lewiston,  is 
Included  usually  in  the  Niagara  visit ;  and  beyond  this, 
and  the  fact  that  the  British  burned  every  building  in 
Lewiston,  and  "  gallantly  defended  "  Queenstown,  (as  the 
Canadian  guide-books  truly  say,)  during  the  war  of  1813, 
we  need  not  delay.    Our  voyage  now  commences,  and  for 
7  miles  lies  along  the  Niagara  River.     The  stream,  anon 
so  turbid  and  precipitous,  grows  more  gentle  as  we  near 
the  great  lake,  and  its  banks  betray  but  little  of  their 
character  as  hitherto  displayed.    The  river  retains,  rather 
than  enlarges,  its  accustomed  breadth,  and  at  Fort  Niagara 
pours  into  Lake  Ontario  at  a  level  334  feet  below  that  of 
Lake  Er.'e.    We  may  observe  the  fort  as  we  pass,  recalling 
the  scenes  of  bloody  conflict  between  whites  and  Indians, 
and  English  and  French  in  the  years  long  gone. 

The  village  of  Youngstown  lies  a  short  distance  south 
of  the  fort.  On  the  other  shore  Fort  Massasauga  formerly 
guarded,  and  Niagara  Town  profited  by,  the  l^ead  of  the 
lake.  The  construction  of  the  Welland  Canal,  however, 
has  damaged  the  latter,  as  the  Erie  Canal  injured  the  Ame- 
ric  '.n  towns,  and  Massasauga  is  only  interesting  as  a  monu- 
ment of  a  past  age. 

The  Welland  Canal  terminates  northward  at  Port  Dal- 
housie,  on  Lake  Ontario,  about  10  miles  west  of  the  mouth 
of  the- Niagara — a  work  so  important  to  navigation  that 
the  tourist  will  be  sufficiently  interested  to  pay  it  a  visit. 
The  canal  extends  from  Port  Dalhousie  to  Port  Colbourne, 
on  Lake  Erie,  the  last  part  of  it  being  conducted  by  way 
of  the  Welland  River,  from  which  it  takes  its  name.  The 
canal  is  navigable  for  vessels  of  500  tons,  is  28  miles  in 


THE   DOMINION   OF   CANADA. 


5 


length,  and  has  two  feeders.  By  means  of  it,  trap  ship- 
ment to  avoid  Niagara  Falls  is  rendered  needless. 

We  now  enter  upon  the  last  of  the  five  Great  Lakes  of 
the  North.  The  first  glance  at  the  sheet  of  water  lying  so 
placid  and  brilliant  before  us  can  hardly  fail  to  provoke 
the  exclamation,  '*  Beautiful  I"  So  said  the  Indian  dwell- 
ers in  this  region  wlien  they  first  beheld  the  lake,  saying, 
in  their  native  tongue,  "Ontario!"  The  journey  to  Capo 
Saint  Vincent  is  not,  perhaps,  so  interesting  in  its  land 
scenery  as  very  many  others ;  but  nowhere,  save  on  the 
preceding  sections  of  this  great  water,  does  the  traveler 
have  so  unfailing  a  source  of  delight  in  looking  into  the 
emerald  depths  over  the  vessel's  side.  The  whole  State 
of  New- York  is  full  of  lakes,  whose  water  is  of  a  beautiful 
color,  and  often  sweet  to  the  taste ;  but  to  sail  for  a  day 
over  one  perpetual,  liquid  volume,  whose  sparkling  and 
flashing  green  surpasses  the  hue  of  Nature's  carpet,  is  a 
pleasure  that  will  be  abundantly  appreciated  by  an  atten- 
tive observer. 

The  Lake  Ontario  is  the  lowest  and  smallest  of  the  great 
chain  above  alluded  to,  extending  180  miles  from  west  to 
east,  with  a  breadth  of  55  miles  at  the  greatest,  35  for  the 
average.  Its  mean  depth  is  500  feet.  By  reason  of  its 
great  depth  it  is  much  less  disturbed  by  storms  than  Lake 
Erie,  and  its  na\igation  much  less  obstructed  by  ice,  being 
very  rarely  interrupted.  Its  chief  sujiply  comes,  of  course,, 
through  the  Niagara  chasm;  but  the  Genesee,  Oswego, 
Black,  and  other  rivers  bring  other  considerable  access 
Bions. 

The  first  noticeable  feature  of  the  lake  shore  is  the  Lake 
Ridge,  a  narrow  elevation  on  the  south,  ranging  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Niagara  to  Sodus  Bay,  in  Wayne  county. 
New- York,  nearly  parallel  with  the  edge  of  the  lake,  and 


L 


THE   DOMINION   OF   CANADA. 


at  a  distance  of  from  3  to  8  miles  back.  Its  elevation  is  in 
some  places  nearly  200  feet  above  the  lake,  and  pfenerally 
exceeds  ICO  feet.  Tno  lino  of  the  ridge  is  not,  however, 
always  sharply  defined.  Being  composed  of  sand  and  gra- 
vel, it  makes  one  of  the  finest  natural  roads  in  the  world, 
and  the  principal  highway  along  this  side  of  the  lake  has 
been  upon  its  summit.  This  ridge  was  doubtless  an  ancient 
shore  line. 

The  New- York,  or,  as  it  is  oddly  called,  the  American 
side,  will  not  call  for  cur  special  attention  henceforward  un- 
til we  reach  the  mouth  of  tne  Genesee,  while  the  Canadian 
shore  is  presently  of  much  interest.  It  is  unfortunate  that 
both  the  American  and  the  Canadian  lines  of  boats  follow 
their  respective  shores — chiefly  from  necessity  of  avoiding 
constant  crossing — so  exclusively.  The  Auierican  boats  go 
to  Toronto  alone  of  Canadian  towns ;  but  the  opposition  do 
not  even  do  as  well  by  the  Americans  as  that,  sending,  in- 
stead, an  extra  steamer  to  Lewiston,  and  neglecting  Roches- 
ter (Charlotte)  altogether.  As  the  chief  attractions  of  this 
lake-trip,  howevei  lie  in  the  passing  view,  the  most  im- 
portant towns  will,  best  be  visited  separately,  if  at  all,  and 
often  by  other  routes. 

The  surface  of  the  country  on  the  north  shore  rises 
gradually  from  the  lake  shore  and  spreads  out  in  broad 
plains.  The  lake  extends  some  50  or  60  miles  west  of  the 
point  at  which  we  entered  it.  The  important  Canadian 
city  of  Hamilton  stands  upon  Burlington  Bay,  at  the  ex- 
treme western  limit,  invisible  from  our  boat.  Hamilton  is 
built  upon  an  ftcclivity  extending  back  from  the  bay  to  the 
base  of  a  mountain  which  rises  in  the  rear  of  the  town  to 
a  coD^derable  eminence,  affording  a  fine  view.  The  name 
of  the  founder  was  given  the  city,  and  it  dates  from  1813. 
Population,  25,000  ;  historical  reminiscences  as  a  "  retiring- 


TUE   DOMINION    OF   CANADA. 


■?*r 


room"  for  several  British  commantlcrs  in  "  the  last  war," 
some  of  whom  afterward  advanced  to  victory.  Burlington 
Bay  is  one  of  the  most  commodious  and  safe  harbors  of 
Ontario,  5  miles  long  and  2  wide,  and  navigable  in  all 
parts.  It  abounds  in  pike,  bass,  perch,  and  eels,  caught 
preferably  by  "  spearing."  During  the  winter,  a  number 
of  spearing-houses  are  erected  on  the  bay  ;  they  are  ren- 
dered impervious  to  light,  and  a  circular  hole  about  a  yard 
in  diameter  is  cut  in  the  ice,  which,  in  the  dark,  renders 
the  water  quite  clear.  A  brilliantly  painted  decoy-fish  is 
made  available,  and,  while  the  unhappy  dwellers  in  the 
deep  hover  around  it  in  admiration,  the  spear-holders 
testify  their  admiration  in  a  most  direct  manner.  This 
l^astime  is  forbidden  by  law  wholly  after  February,  and  at 
any  season  must  not  victimize  any  fish  but  bass,  pike,  and 
a  few  other  kinds. 

The  cities  of  no  two  sections  of  the  United  States  differ 
more  strikingly  (we  had  almost  said  so  strikingly)  than 
those  of  the  two  Provinces  of  Ontario  (formerly  called 
Upper  or  Western  Canada)  and  Quebec,  (Lower  or  East- 
ern Canada.)  Of  the  former,  Toronto  leads,  while  in  the 
other  section  Quebec  is  most  strikingly  peculiar.  In  the 
one,  American  bustle  and  hurry  seem  to  have  exerted  a 
contaminating  influence ;  in  the  other,  the  ancient  land- 
marks have  not  been  removed.  It  will  bo  well  for  the 
tourist  upon  whose  immediate  route  lie  both  Provinces  to 
mark  the  character  of  each  as  he  has  opportunity.  Ham- 
ilton, "  though  not  equaling  Chicago  in  its  sudden  growth 
and  expanse,  (as  says  the  Canadian  Iland-Book,)  has, 
from  its  zeal  and  eagerness,  been  named  *  the  ambitious 
little  city.'  "  It  owes  its  greatness  to  its  fine  location,  and 
its  prominence  as  the  seat  of  the  Great  Western  Railway 
of  Canada.    It  has  many  fine  buildings  of  most  modem 


T^ 


8 


THE   DOMINION   OF   CANADA. 


style,  but  it  is  indebted  mainly  for  tlieir  beauty  to  a  valu- 
able quarry  of  very  linflit  freestone  or  limestone  near  tbe 
city.  Tliero  is  a  number  of  pleasing  resorts  outside  the 
"heated  pavements,"  which  we  need  not  specify  here. 
King  street  is  the  chief  thoroughfare.  Hotels,  Anglo- 
American  and  the  City  Hotel. 

Toronto  may  next  interest  us  along  the  lake.  The  bay 
upon  which  it  stands  is  caused  by  a  sand-bar,  7  miles  long, 
stretching  out  to  the  west  and  terminating  in  Gibraltar 
Point.  This  bar  has  doubtless  been  caused  by  the  action 
of  the  lake-water  and  that  of  the  River  Don,  which  enters 
the  bay  upon  the  east.  The  city  itself  stands  on  land 
sloping  too  little  to  make  the  distant  view  one  of  interest. 
Population,  60,000.  In  1793,  Governor  Simcoe  began  the 
oettlement  under  the  name  of  York,  changed,  when  it  waa 
incorporated  in  1834,  to  Toronto — meaning,  in  the  Indian 
tongue,  "  the  place  of  meeting."  One  of  the  principal  tho- 
roughfares, Yonge  Street,  extends,  through  a  flourishing 
district,  to  the  rare  length  (for  a  street)  of  30  miles.  The 
buildings  are  chiefly  made  of  the  material  commonly  called 
"  Milwaukee  brick."  The  vicinity  affords  no  very  interest- 
ing localities,  and  the  visitor  must  content  himself  chiefly 
with  the  public  buildings — chiefly  the  University  with  its 
Park. 

Port  Hope  is  63  miles  from  Toronto,  a  pretty  town  after 
the  Canadian  pattern,  rather  sombre  to  American  taste  usu- 
ally, and  chiefly  interesting  for  the  hunting  in  its  vicinity. 
Partridge,  hares,  woodchuck,  and  deer  are  the  game 
available.  The  back-country  here  abounds  in  lakes.  One 
route  to  the  deer-shooting  is.  Port  Hope  to  Lindsay  by  rail, 
Lindsay  to  Fenelon  Falls,  Portage  to  Cameron  Lake,  and 
then  there  is  shooting  on  Cameron  and  Balsam  Lakes  and 
up  Brent  River. 


THE   DOMINION    OP    CANADA. 


Coboiirg",  7  miles  farther,  county-aeat  of  Xorthumber- 
lancl  and  Durliaiii,  in  a  town  of  connidcTablo  importance. 
The  Victoria  (Metliodist)  Collerre,  cluirt(?rod  1842  by  act  of 
Provincial  Parliament,  is  tlio  most  interesting  locality  in 
this  vicinitv. 

Passin*^  (Jrafton  and  Colbonrne,  wo  next  como  to 
Presqno  Isle  Bay,  (town  of  Brighton, )  a  ))erfe(;t  lagoon,  ono 
of  the  best  of  the  many  fine  indentations  of  tho  lake  on 
tho  north  coast. 

Across  tho  lake,  Rochester  lies  0  miles  inland,  on  tho 
Geneseo  River,  which  comes  down  to  Ontario,  with  its 
famous  leaps,  85  miles  from  Fort  Niagara.  Tho  city  and 
its  environs  have  been  already  described  at  length  in  tho 
article  on  Geneseo  Falls,  and  we  only  need  here — at  Char- 
lotto,  tho  small  town  which  serves  as  tho  port  of  Roches- 
ter— to  notice  the  mouth  of  tho  Genesee.  Here,  as  at  tho 
other  chief  tributaries  below,  the  muddy,  shallow  river 
water  does  not  at  once  minglo  confusedly  with  tho  clear, 
deep  flood  of  tho  lake,  \  it  leaves  a  very  distinct  lino  to 
mark  the  point  of  division. 

The  next  port  (and  the  most  populous)  on  tho  American 
Bhore,  is  Oswego,  a  city  almost  rivaling  Rochester  in  the 
beauty  of  its  streets,  and  far  surpassing  it  in  its  lofty  posi- 
tion on  tho  Oswego  River,  overlooking  tho  lake.  Tho 
pier  (1259  feet  long)  at  the  light-house  on  the  lake,  is  a  fa- 
vorite promenade  in  tho  hours  of  twilight  and  moonlight. 
Tho  tourist  will  notice  the  demarkation  of  tho  opposing 
waters  at  tliis  point  also.  Upon  the  edge  of  the  Oswego 
River,  down  upon  the  docks,  several  fine  sulphur  springs 
(see  Springs  of  New- York)  were  discovered  some  four  or 
five  years  ago,  but  have  never  been  made  available  to 
any  extent.  Population,  20,000.  There  is  nothing  to  see 
at  Oswego  that  will  interest  the  tourist  much,  beyond  Fort 


T 


I , ^f^BP^^i^pjgwr^ 


10 


THE  D03rNI0I^    OF   CANADA. 


Ontario  and  tlie  usual  Indian  stories,  the  great  grain  ele- 
vators, and — when  you  are  lucky  enough  to  see  it — 
the  lake  mirage  that  occurs  here  when  Nature  demands 
it.  The  famous  system  of  "  object-teaching"  originated  in 
the  public  schools  of  Oswego. 

Sackett's  Harbor,  on  Black  River  Bay,  45  miles  further 
down,  and  20  miles  from  the  head  of  the  Saint  Lawrence, 
was  named  for  a  Mr.  Sackett,  who  came  here  and  made  a 
\allage  of  it  in  1799.  Population  now,  2000.  Madison  Bar- 
racks is  the  name  of  a  disused  military  post  of  the  Nation- 
al Government.  The  harbor,  being  the  best  upon  the  lake, 
was  made  available  as  a  naval  station  during  that  war 
(1812)  of  which  one,  on  this  lake,  never  hears  "  the  last." 

Cape  Vincent,  which  the  Canadians,  who  have  a  pecu- 
liar passion  for  nominal  sanctity,  call  Cape  Saint  Vincent, 
guards  the  entrance  to  the  River  Saint  Lawrence.  Just 
before  reaching  it,,  we  pass  a  group  of  islands,  of  which 
Steney,  Gallop,  and  Duck  are  the  largest.  Amherst  and 
Grand  Islands,  much  more  important,  are  near  the  Can  a, 
dian  shore,  further  down.  There  is  nothing  whatever  of 
interest  at  the  Cape,  unless  it  be  found  in  the  fading  view 
of  the  lake,  or  the  railway  depot  on  the  wharf,  terminating 
the  Rome,  Watertown,  and  Ogdensburg  Railway. 

On  the  opposite  (northern)  shore  we  have  Kingston, 
standing  4  or  5  miles  in  from  the  lake  and  river,  upon 
a  harbor  formed  by  Wolf  and  Garden  Islands  lying  across 
the  Bay  of  Quint<S.  The  city  was  the  original  capital 
of  Canada.  Modern  as  it  aj^pears,  it  looks  far  back  for 
its  history,  as  its  advantageous  locale  did  not  fail  to  attract 
the  notice  of  the  early  French  discoverers.  The  French, 
under  De  Courcelles,  began  a  settlement  here  in  1672,  and 
called  their  fort  Cataraqui,  which  was  afterward  changed 
to  Frontenac.     Colonel  Bradstreet's  expedition  against 


THE  DOMINION   OF   CANADA. 


11 


tho  French  and  Indians  destroyed  Fort  Frontenac,  in 
1758.  The  British  captured  and  re-named  the  place 
in  1762,  since  which  time  it  has  been  called  Kinj^ton. 
Queenston,  rather  Queenstown,  is  a  sort  of  complement 
of  Kingston,  standing  at  the  other  extremity  of  Lake  On- 
tario. The  military  and  naval  defenses  of  Kingston  are 
second  only  to  Quebec,  of  all  the  British  stations  ;  and  the 
advantages  of  its  commercial  position  are  nearly  as  great. 
It  is  not  only  at  the  outlet  of  the  lake  into  the  Great  River, 
but  is  the  terminus  (south)  of  the  Rideau  Canal,  and  also 
at  the  junction  of  the  waters  of  the  Bay  of  Quinte  and  the 
great  Cataraqui  Creek.  Rideau  Canal  flows  in  a  north- 
eastecly  course  to  Ottawa,  follo^ving  the  course  of  the  Ot- 
tawa River  much  of  the  way.  Population  of  Kingston, 
about  20,000.  The  most  interesting  places  to  see  in  the 
city  are,  the  fortifications,  including  the  forts  on  both 
Henry  and  Frederick  Points,  with  the  martello  towers  and 
long  wooden  bridge  ;  the  Provincial  Penitentiary,  and  the 
two  Colleges.  Hotels — the  Burnett  House  and  the  British 
American,  neither  very  far  from  the  dock  or  from  the 
other. 

The  American  traveler  who  has  attentively  noticed  the 
aspect  of  the  two  shores,  will  not  fail  to  be  struck  with  the 
characteristic  appearance  of  the  city  of  Kingston,  and  so  on 
throughout  his  further  journey.  As  we  are  now  about  to 
reduce  the  breadth  of  our  horizon  from  GO  miles  to  2,  we 
shall  frequently  have  opportunity  to  compare  Canadian 
with  American  life.  The  towns  of  the  latter  have,  in 
most  cases,  that  "  bright  red  brick  and  painted  wood" 
look  which  distressed  Charles  Dickens  so  greatly  thirty 
years  ago ;  a  look  of  activity,  hurry,  and  business.  On 
the  other  side,  as  you  approach  a  large  town,  you  are 
struck  with  the  sombreness  of  its  appearance,  caused  first 


:l 


12 


THE  DOMINION   OF   CANADA. 


by  the  singular  contrast  wliicli  a  few  ilasliing  roofs  of  un- 
painted  tin  make  witli  the  rather  dismal  stone  in  almost 
universal  use ;  while  at  the  smaller  places  the  square  stono 
dwellings  and  stores  are  supplemented  often  by  ill-kept 
buildings  of  wood.  The  contrast  extends  to  the  people 
also.  On  the  Oswego  wharf,  the  irrepressible  newsboy 
and  his  brother,  the  boot-black,  will  divide  the  air  with 
the  hackmen ;  on  the  north  shore,  the  boat's  arrival  ■will 
be  as  quiet  an  event  as  the  departure  of  an  Erie  train  from 
a  country  station.  So,  too,  there  is  a  marked  distinction 
in  the  general  look  of  the  country,  affording  a  continual 
study,  which  can  hardly  fail  of  beguiling  any  possibly  te- 
dious hours. 

We  have  now  fairly  entered  the  River  Saint  Lawrence. 
From  Kingston  to  Montreal  it  is  by  some  natives  called 
Cataraqui ;  by  the  early  French  settlers  the  whole  stream, 
down  to  the  gulf,  was  often  popularly  called  the  Great 
River,  as  it  deserved  ;  and  the  name  Canada  was  probably 
applied  to  the  river  in  honor  of  the  French  settler,  De 
Cane,  before  it  was  given  to  the  adjacent  country  ;  but  the 
prevaiUng  name  has  always  beeu  Saint  Lawrence.  Jac- 
ques Cartier,  the  famous  navigator,  began  to  explore  it  on 
the  calendar  festival  of  that  martyr,  in  the  year  1535,  and, 
like  a  good  Cliristian,  honored  the  Saint  rather  than  him- 
self, by  naming  the  waters  for  him. 

It  is  an  unpleasant  duty  to  begin  so  pleasing  a  journey 
with  a  warning ;  but  we  must  present  here  a  leaf  from  the 
book  of  experience.  The  traveler  who  betakes  himself  to 
the  Saint  Lawrence  voyage,  will  often  reach  its  commence- 
ment wearied  with  a  long  railway  journey,  and  in  such 
a  case  is,  more  than  another,  exposed  to  the  evils  of  chang- 
ing air  and  water.  But,  for  any  one,  the  water  of  the 
River  Saint  Lawrence,  though  beautiful  to  the  eye,  and 


Lg-V.     .._»»-„■■..— .^ 1 .^ 


THE  DOMINION   OF  CANADA. 


13 


lor- 

Iho 
id 


even  delicious  to  the  taste,  is  exceedingly  pernicious,  in- 
ducing diarrhoea,  often  violent,  when  drunk  to  any  consid- 
erable extent.  The  traveler  is  often  cautioned  against 
«'  Montreal  water,"  and  may  think  the  fault  is  in  the  dark 
Ottawa ;  but  it  is  in  the  sweet  water  of  the  Great  River, 
beginning  at  Cape  Vincent,  and  extending  as  far  as  to  tho 
limit  of  the  tides,  above  Quebec. 

The  first  40  miles  of  the  Saint  Lawrence  have  been 
Cfxlled  "  The  Lake  of  the  Thousand  Isles,"  from  the  con- 
tinuous string  of  islands,  isles,  and  islets,  which  interrupt 
the  channel  at  all  sorts  of  angles  and  distances,  from  Capo 
Vincent  clear  to  Ogdensburg.  The  statistical  people  have 
declared  that  the  exact  number  (of  which  we  are  unfortu- 
nately in  ignorance)  is  nearer  1800  than  1000 ;  though 
how  any  human  bei-ng  ever  resisted  the  romance  and  poe- 
try of  nature  in  this  lovely  "  lake"  sufficiently  to  make 
his  journey  arithmetical,  is  a  puzzle  to  us.  The  islands 
are  **  of  every  imaginable  shape,  size,  and  appearance,  some 
of  them  barely  visible,  others  covering  many  acres  ;  some 
only  a  few  yards  long,  others  several  miles  in  length ; 
some  presenting  little  or  nothing  but  bare  masses  of  rock, 
whilst  others  are  so  thickly  wooded  over  that  nothing  but 
the  most  gorgeous  green  foliage  in  summer  is  to  be  seen, 
whilst  in  autumn  the  leaves  present  colors  of  different 
hues  hardly  imaginable.  The  passage  through  the  Thou- 
sand Islands  by  steamer  is  generally  made  in  the  early 
morning.  You  pass  close  to,  and  near  enough,  often,  to 
cast  a  pebble  from  the  deck  of  the  steamer  on  to  them, 
cluster  after  cluster  of  circular  little  islands,  whose  trees, 
perpetually  moistened  by  the  water,  have  a  most  luxuri- 
ant leaf,  their  branches  overhanging  the  current.  Again, 
you  pass  little  winding  passages  and  bays  between  the 
islands,  the  trees  on  their  margin  interlacing  above  them. 


'  If 


ij 


14 


THE   DOMINION   OF   CANAJ>A. 


iiil 


11 


and  forming  lierc  and  there  natural  bowers  ;  yet  tlio  wa- 
ters of  tliest)  bays  are  so  deep  that  steamers  might  pass 
under  their  shade.  Then  opens  up  a  magnificent  sheet  of 
water,  many  miles  wide,  with  a  large  island  apparently  di- 
viding it  into  two  great  rivers ;  but  as  you  approach  it,  you 
discover  that  it  is  but  a  group  of  small  islands,  the  river 
being  divided  into  many  i)arts,  looking  like  silver  threads. 
Again,  the  river  seems  to  come  to  an  abrupt  termination 
four  or  five  hundred  yards  in  advance  of  you ;  but  as  you 
approach  the  threatening  rocks,  a  channel  suddenly  opens 
out  on  the  right.  You  are  whirled  into  it,  and  a  magnifi- 
cent amphitheatre  of  lake  opens  out  before  you.  This, 
again,  to  all  appearance,  is  bounded  by  a  dense  green 
bank ;  but  at  your  approach,  the  mass  is  moved,  as  if  in  a 
kaleidoscope,  and  a  hundred  beantifuFlittle  isles  appear  in 
its  place.  Such,  for  upward  of  40  miles,  is  the  scenery 
through  which  you  glide." 

Clayton,  the  first  landing  after  leaving  the  Cape,  is  about 
15  miles  down  the  Saint  Lawrence,  about  in  front  of  the 
channel  between  Gore  Island  on  the  north,  and  Howe  and 
Wolf  (the  latter  one  the  most  westerly)  on  the  south  side 
of  the  river.  A  railway  is  projected  between  this  point 
and  Philadelphia,  on  the  Rome  road.  Clayton  is  a  favor- 
ite  stopping-place  for  Izaak  Walton's  disciples,  and  has 
good  hotel  accommodations  at  very  low  prices.  The  post- 
office  address  is  Clayton,  Jefierson  county.  New- York. 
The  place  was  formerly  known  as  Freud  Creek. 

On  the  Canadian  shore  opposite  is  the  village  of  Gana- 
noque,  in  Leeds  county,  at  the  mouth  of  a  small  creek. 

Cornelia  is  a  small  place  just  below  Clayton  ;  but  the 
next  point  of  importance  is  Alexandria  Bay,  another  largo 
fishing  station,  some  25  miles  lower,  opposite  the  northern 
extremity  of  Wellesley  Island,  and  just  above  Bathurst 


SHaMMHeM 


THE  DOMINION   OF   CANADA. 


15 


Island.  This  town  was  the  first  of  the  rivcr-settlcmcnts 
to  be  occupied  as  a  waterinj^-place,  and  a  capital  one  it  is' 
with  good  (and  cheap)  hotel  accommodations.  It  is  built 
upon  a  massive  pile  of  rocks,  in  a  highly  romantic  neigh- 
borhood. Two  or  three  miles  below,  there  is  a  spot  where 
100  of  the  islands  may  be  comprised  in  one  view.  Ameri- 
cans will  prefer  the  New- York  side  of  the  river  for  their 
headquarters  in  these  great  fishing-grounds,  as  well  foi- 
the  greater  frequency  of  hotels  as  because  nine  tenths  of 
all  the  summer  visitors  come  from  "  the  States,"  and  make 
life  at  Clayton  and  Alexandria  so  very  agreeable.  There 
is  no  difficulty  in  getting  canoes  or  accommodations  at 
any  of  the  farm-houses,  but  hotels  are  hardly  to  be  found 
save  at  the  points  just  named.  Life  on  this  river  is  emi- 
nently primitive.  The  fishing  among  the  islands  for  pike, 
maskinonge,  (often  as  large  as  40  or  50  x)ounds,)  black 
bass,  doree,  etc.,  is  the  best  in  the  whole  length  of  the  river. 
Myriads  of  wild  fowl  are  caught  at  great  advantage,  on 
account  of  the  ambush  one  may  have  upon  the  little 
woody  islets ;  and  spearing  fish  at  night  is  still  another 
of  the  sports  that  may  be  enjoyed  here. 

Morristown  is  a  post-village  below  Alexandria,  near 
Black  Lake,  inland.  The  village  is  14  miles  from  Ogdens- 
burg.  On  the  Canadian  shore  opposite  lies  Brockville,  an 
important  town  in  the  united  counties  of  Leeds  and  Green- 
ville, Ontario  Province.  Population,  3000.  Campbell's 
Hotel  is  in  sight  from  the  landing,  a  short  distance  up. 
At  this  point  in  the  river  the  great  multitude  of  islands 
ceases,  and  we  come  somewhat  unexpectedly  upon  the 
open  river,  2  miles  wide.  Henceforth  most  of  the  islands 
wliich  we  shall  see  will  be  large,  and  in  the  rnidst  of  the 
rapids. 

Ogdensburg  and  Prescott  lie  opposite  each  other,  more 


f  II 
II 


16 


THE  DOMINION   OF   CANADA. 


than  40  miles  from  Cape  Vincent.  The  former  is  the 
most  northerly  town  of  importance,  except  Rouse's  Point 
and  Plattsburg,  in  the  State  of  New- York.  Population, 
about  10,000.  It  lies  on  land  sloping  considerably  up  from 
the  Saint  Lawrence  and  its  tributary,  the  Os^vogatchie 
River,  commanding  a  fine  view  ;  is  much  more  quiet  and 
old-fashioned  than  most  of  the  cities  or  large  towns  which 
one  commonly  sees  in  the  State,  and  contains  one  really 
very  singular  residence.  It  was  built  a  long  time  a'go  by 
a  Frenchman,  in  a  quite  indescribable  style,  resembling 
the  French  dwellings  in  Canada  more  nearly  than  any 
thing  familiar  to  American  tourists  at  home.  The  grounds, 
quite  in  the  heart  of  the  city,  occupy  an  entire  "  block"  or 
"  square,"  and  are  surrounded  by  a  high,  disnal,  red-brick 
wall.  Within,  the  dwellings  of  the  various  animals — 
horses,  hens,  pigs — are  mainly  adorned  with  elm-bark 
walls.  There  is  considerable  roadwav,  and  a  mansion  of 
much  apparent  splendor,  which  must  be  seen  to  be  appre- 
ciated. The  visitor  will  also  go  to  see  the  ruins  of  the  old 
Fort,  "  La  Presentation,"  built  in  1748,  to  shelter  the  mis- 
sion of  the  Abbe  Piquet,  "  the  Apostle  of  the  Iroquois." 

Ogdensburg  is  connected  by  rail  with  a  number  of  pro- 
minent points  south,  v/est,  and  east.  It  is  the  proper  ter- 
minus of  the  Rome,  Watertown,  and  Ogdensburg  Railway ; 
but  the  tourist  will  prefer  to  know  that  it  is  also  at  the 
western  end  of  the  Northern  Railway,  coming  from  Rouse's 
Point,  which  is  east  by  north.  By  this  road  tourists,  who 
have  been  enjoying  Lakes  Champlain  and  Horicon,  come 
to  Ogdensburg  to  see  the  Islands,  or  even  to  go  northward 
through  the  Rapids ;  and  here,  also,  of  course,  the  Rapids 
may  be  omitted  from  our  tour  and  the  Champlain  ioute  be 
entered  upon.  Through  fare  to  Rouse's  Point,  $4.  The 
wharf  of  this  railway  at  Ogdensburg  is  a  very  superior 


■1^ 


THE  DOMINION   OP   CANADA. 


17 


one,  and  the  scene,  when  a  steamer  lands  its  passengers  or 
receives  them,  is  very  pleasing. 

Prescott,  on  the  Canada  shore,  (population  2500,)  is  ra- 
pidly recovering  its  prestige,  lost  when  the  construction  of 
the  Rideau  Canal  won  its  trade  away  to  Kingston  ;  for  now 
the  railway  just  named  approaches  it  at  Ogdensburg,  and. 
another  connects  it  with  Ottawa  City,  on  the  Ottawa  River ; 
beside  which  advantages,  it  is  on  the  line  of  the  Grand 
Trunk  route.  (For  the  fine  trip  up  the  Ottawa  River,  seo 
article  under  that  title.)  From  Prescott  may  be  seen  the 
windmill  and  the  ruined  houses,  mementoes  of  the  attempt 
at  invasion  by  Schultz  and  his  band  in  1838. 

Past  Windmill  Point,  a  mile  or  two  below  Ogdensburg,  on 
the  Canada  side,  we  begin  to  discern  a  change  in  the  flow- 
ing of  the  river.  The  waters  show  signs  of  unusual  com- 
motion ;  their  current,  at  the  shores,  is  noticeably  accele- 
rated ;  and  now,  when  we  behold  again  the  reappearing 
islands,  off  Point  Cardinal,  we  find  ourselves  for  the  first 
time  in  the  Rapids  of  the  Saint  Lawrence ! 

Wo  shall  not  undertake  to  describe  the  "  shooting  of  the 
rapids"  in  detail  throughout  their  long 'and  almost  unin- 
terrupted exten.t  from  Point  Cardinal  to  Montreal.  A  few 
facts  are  all  for  which  we  can  afford  space,  beside  a  list  of 
the  rapids.  The  channel  through  the  chief  rapids  was 
first  found  some  30  years  ago  by  observing  the  course 
which  some  lost  rafts  took;  and  steamboats  began  to 
"  shoot"  this  course  in  1840,  piloted  by  the  Indian  Teron- 
hiahere.  The  pilots  are  generally  Indians  now ;  but  the 
absurd  stories  told  by  some  guide-books  about  their  exclu- 
sive infallibility,  should  be  taken  cum  grano  salts.  The 
passage  is  perhaps  the  most  exciting  experience  possible 
to.  tourists  anywhere  but  on  the  Ottawa  or  the  ocean  ;  that 
at  the  last  one,  the  La  Chine,  near  Montreal,  being  the 


.^.1 


\  '%l 


•  \i 


'   ■!*. 


18 


THE   DOMINION   OP   CANADA. 


culmination  of  the  whole  journey.  In  the  course  of  this 
rapid  the  vessel  passes  between  rocks  not  3  feet  from  the 
side,  one  of  which  can  be  seen  grimly  rising  several  feet 
above  the  water.  There  is  also  a  very  perceptible  pitch 
and  plunge  as  the  boat  passes  this  point.  There  need  bo 
no  fear  on  the  part  of  the  most  timid  in  "  shooting"  the  ra- 
pids ;  for  the  course  is  perfectly  safe,  perfectly  familiar  to 
the  pilots,  and  no  accident  has  ever  occurred  with  loss  of 
life.  So  nearly  as  we  can  state  now,  there  has  been  but 
one  case  in  which  a  vessel'has  missed  the  channel ;  then 
she  was  at  once  guided  to  shore,  and  no  damage  whatever 
distressed  the  people  on  board. 

Of  course,  it  is  impossible  to  pass  the  rapids  on  the  re- 
turn trip;  and  for  the  accommodation  of  steamers  on 
these,  and  before  the  discovery  of  the  channel,  on  the 
down  trips,  canals  have  been  cut  upon  the  Canada  shore. 
V/  e  append  a  list  of  the  rapids  and  the  canals. 

At  Point  Cardinal,  the  Gallopes  Rapids,  4  in  number ; 
at  Point  Iroquois,  Plate  Island,  the  Plate ;  the  Depleau, 
just  above  Mariatown.  Now  we  come  to  the  Long  Sault, 
through  many  (several  large)  islands.  This  rapid  is  9 
miles  long,  and  runs  at  the  rate  of  20  miles  to  the  hour. 
Emerging  into  the  Lake  Saint  Francis,  {5}  miles  wide,)  the 
current  subsides  only  partially,  until  we  have  passed  its 
length  of  25  miles ;  the  river  then  narrows,  and  within  its 
contracted  part  are  the  Coteau,  Cedars,  and  Cascades.  At 
the  end  of  these,  the  dark  Ottawa,  the  greatest  of  the 
streams  which  flow  into  the  Saint  Lawrence,  comes  stonn- 
ing  down  to  seek  the  ocean  with  the  pure  waters  of  the 
Great  River.  Parrot  Island  stands  at  its  mouth.  The  Lake 
Saint  Louis,  12  miles  long  and  6  wide,  leads  us  now  more 
placidly  to  the  La  Chine  Rapid,  the  shortest  brt  the  most 
terrible  of  all ;  and  after  them  we  shortly  behold  the  tow- 
ers of  Notre  Dame  and  the  Victoria  Bridge  at  Montreal. 


TOE   DOMINION    OF   CANADA. 


19 


CANALS  ON  THE  SAINT  LAWRENCE. 


LetKjth 
Milei.   Locks,    in    FriC. 


Gallopeg  Canal 2 

Point  Iroquois 3 

Rapid  Plate • 4 

Farren'a  Point 

Cornwall  (Lons  SauU) 11 1^^ 

Beauharnois  (Coteau) 

Cedars,  Split  Rock,  Cascade 11 X     9 


K 


2 

1 
2 
1 

7 


La  Chine . 


8;^    5 


8 
6 

11.6 
4 

48 

•  ■ 

82.6 

41.9 


The  tourist  should  not  fail,  if  he  can  command  his  time, 
to  take  a  few  steps  backward,  ffoinfr  up,  say  the  La  Chino 
Canal.  By  this  means,  and  by  that  of  making  a  visit  at 
some  points  along*  the  shore  of  the  rapids,  he  will  see  the 
boat  descending  the  course,  and  gain  a  more  perfect  idea 
of  the  scene  than  he  could  }iave  by  experiencing  the 
"  shooting"  only. 

Returning  now  to  the  Point  (Cardinal)  at  which  we  first 
encountered  tlie  ra|)ids,  we  resume  our  observation  of  oth- 
er features  of  our  journey.  A  little  above  the  entrance 
of  the  Long  Sault,  28  miles  from  Ogdensburg,  on  the 
American  side,'  Grass  River  or  creek  has  caused  the  forma- 
tion of  ?.  small  post-village,  called  Louisville,  in  Saint 
Lawrence  county.  Stages  run  from  this  place  to  Massena 
Springs,  (see  article  under  that  name,)  7  miles  distant,  on 
the  Racket  River.  Dickinson's  Landing  is  a  little  further 
down,  on  the  Canada  shore,  at  the  head  of  the  Long  Sault 
Canal. 

At  the  lower  end  of  the  Long  Sault,  where  the  north 
and  south  channels  dash  against  each  other  so  forcibly  as 
to  give  the  name  of  "  Big  Pitch"  to  the  point  of  contact, 
are  the  villages  of  Cornwall  on  the  north  shore,  and  Saint 
Regis,  on  the  south.    Excellent  duck-shooting  is  to  be  had 


M 


i 


«3 


t     I 


20 


THE  DOMINION   OP   CANADA. 


I 


at  Cornwall,  in  tho  fall  of  the  year,  when  the  birds  spend 
Sf'vcrnl  AV(<']is  at  the  foot  of  the  rapids  before  they  go 
south.  Saint  llegis  is  an  Indian  village,  (population  000,) 
quaint  and  interesting  because  of  its  (Iroquois)  inhabitants, 
but  also  noticeable  on  our  route  as  the  j)oint  where  the 
boundary  line  of  45°,  between  the  United  States  and  tho 
Dominion  of  Canada,  strikes  the  Saint  Lawrence.  Tho 
Saint  Regis  River  is  at  a  little  distance,  wholly  on  the 
New- York  side  of  the  line. 

The  Lake  Saint  Francis,  at  the  head  of  which  Saint  Re- 
gis stands,  is  a  very  attractive  part  of  the  Great  River  ;  tho 
Lake  Saint  Louis  will  be  more  interesting  from  the  occa- 
sional and  tantalizing  glimpses  which  one  gets  of  Mont- 
real in  the  winding  course  of  the  steamer. 

Caughnawaga,  (cok-nah-wau-gah,)  10  miles  from  Mont- 
real, is  a  curious  little  Indian  settlement,  just  above  the  La 
Chine  Rn.pid.  Here,  better  than  anywhere  else,  one  may 
see  to  what  degradation  the  aboriginal  race  has  sunk. 
Without  any  of  their  native  grandeur  of  character,  debas- 
ed, immoral,  and  wretchedly  poor,  the  huts  of  these  un- 
happy creatures  will  hardly  be  places  for  the  tourist  to 
visit  with  pleasure.  A  great  many  of  them  will  be  seen 
as  we  travel  along,  particularly  in  Montreal,  where  many 
of  them  spend  the  hours  of  daylight  in  petty  street-trade. 

This  brings  us  to  the  great  commercial  capital  of  the 
Canadas,  the  city  of  Montreal.  The  traveler  will  land  at 
the  splendid  granite  wharf,  and  make  his  way  up  to  the 
business  portion,  where  he  will  find  abundant  hotel  accom- 
modation.  The  Saint  Lawrence  Hall,  and  the  Otta\yk 
House,  both  on  Great  Saint  James  street,  which  runs  i>ar- 
allel  to  the  river  shore,  are  the  first  hotels ;  the  Donne 
gana,  on  Notre  Dame  street,  one  block  nearer  the  river,  is 
also  first  class.    Besides  these  leading  establishments,  there 


I, 


THE   DOMINION   OP   CANADA. 


21 


are  many  other  comforta))lo  liouses  and  cafes,  wlioro  tra- 
velers of  all  ranks  and  classes  may  bo  lodged  and  regaled 
accordinor  to  the  varied  humors  of  their  palates  and  their 
purses.  The  terms  at  the  chief  hotels  are  ^A  \)vr  day,  in 
silver  or  Cnnnda  nKmey  ;  ^ATA)  in  greenbacks. 

For  routes  from  Xew-Yorlv  to  Montreal  dirc^ct,  see  article 
entitled  Tup:  Saguenay  Hiver.  A  very  i)leasant  route, 
though  not  quite  direct,  is  by  \vay  of  the  Stanstead,  Shef- 
field, and  Chambly  Railway,  to  Lake  Memphromagog, 
(whore  a  number  of  wealthy  Mcmtrealers  h«we  their  sum- 
mer residences,)  and  thence  down  the  Connecticut  Valley 
(see  sketch  under  that  title)  from  Newport,  Vermont,  by 
the  Connecticut  and  Passumpsic,  Connc^cticut  River,  and 
New-York  and  Boston  Express  Line  Railways. 

The  **  J?i'oau\vay"  rad  "Bowery"  of  Montreal  may  bo 
found,  in  Great  Saint  James  strecjt,  on  which  are  Lhe  Saint 
Lawrence  (opposite  the  Post-office)  and  Ottawa  Hotels, 
Molson  Bank,  the  American  Consul's,  (in  the  first-named 
hc'tel,)  the  Colonial  (dry- floods)  Hall,  (^te.  ;  and  Notre  Dame 
street,  next  towarl  the  river,  on  wliicli  are  the  Donnegana 
Hotel,  and  the  principal  stores  for  all  sorts  of  goods.  The 
bankers  and  brokers  are  on  Saint  Sacvement  street,  which 
bounds  the  Convent  of  Notre  Dame  on  the  north.  The 
traveler,  particularly  if  Montreal  be  his  first  point  in  the 
Domimon,  will  want  to  visit  these  gentlemen,  as  American 
money  is  most  decidedly  uncurrent  across  the  line,  the  very 
beggars  iriii;;-lng  it  back  at  you.  Silver,  gold,  or  Canada 
paper  money  may  be  i)urcliased  at  the  same  rates  as  rule 
in  New- York  ;  telegraphic  communication  being  kept  up 
with  true  brokers'  constancy. 

The  settlement  of  Montreal  dates  fnmi  1535,  when 
Jacques  Cartier,  the  French  navigator,  sailing  under  com- 
mission of  Francis  L  through  these  northern  waters,  reach- 


h 


22 


THE  DOMINION   OP   CANADA. 


ed  (October  2d)  tho  Indian  settlement  of  Ilocholaga.  Ho 
was  so  pleased  with  tho  splendid  mountain  lyin^  juBt  back 
of  the  settlement,  that  he  called  it,  in  his  fidelity  to  hia 
fidelity  to  his  monarch,  Mont  Royal ;  but  tho  settlement, 
afterward  made  by  Europeans,  was  not  called  by  tho  cor- 
ruption of  that  title  which  now  designates  tho  city,  until 
more  than  two  centuries  after.  The  French  authorities 
consecrated  a  site  upon  which  they  founded  the  city,  call- 
ing it  Villo  Marie,  on  August  ICth,  1C43.  The  British  be- 
came the  possessors  of  the  city  September  8th,  17C0.  Gene- 
ral Montgomery  captured  it  in  November,  1775,  and  held 
it  until  the  following  summer.  There  have  been  3  great 
fires  here — 1765,  1768,  1853 — which  have  done  much,  as 
fires  always  do,  toward  bringing  the  general  appearance 
of  the  city  into  its  present  modernness.  The  si)lcndld  lime- 
stone quays  date  fron^  a  little  after  18^0.  l^opulation, 
about  OO.OOO. 

The  view  which  wo  gain  of  the  mountain,  island,  and 
city  of  Montreal,  is  very  grand.  The  mountain  is  visible 
far  back  in  Lake  Saint  Louis,  and  there,  too,  we  even 
catch  a  glimpse  of  the  city  ui^on  the  island,  "  with  its  tin 
roofs,"  as  Thoreau  has  said,  "  whose  reflections  fall  upon 
the  eye  like  the  clash  of  cymbals  on  the  ear.  Above  all," 
(to  quote  further  from  this  genial  writer,)  "  the  church  of 
Notre  Dame  is  conspicuous,  and  anon  the  Bonsecours 
Market-house,  occupying  a  commanding  position  on  the 
quay,  in  the  rear  of  the  shipping.  This  city  makes  the 
more  favorable  impression  from  being  approached  by 
water,  and  also  being  built  of  stone,  a  gray  limestone 
found  on  the  island.  Here  we  have  found  a  city's  harbor, 
to  which  ships  of  600  tons  can  ascend,  and  where  vessels, 
drawing  15  feet,  lie  close  to  the  wharf,  540  miles  from  the 
Gulf;  the  Saint  Lawrence  being  here  3  miles  wide." 


ii-. 


THE  DOMINION   OP   CANADA. 


2? 


it 


Other  distancos  of  Montreal  are :  180  miles  soutli-wost  from 
Quebec,  and  420  nortli  from  New- York.  The  Mount  Iloyal 
Is  about  1000  feet  high.  The  island  is  30  miles  lonjr,  and 
10  at  its  greatest  breadth  ;  the  city  lies  upon  its  south  side, 
and  a  branch  of  the  Ottawa  lliver  comes  into  the  Saint 
Lawrence  opposite,  where  it  is  divided  again  for  a  little 
by  the  Island  of  Jesus  (23  miles  by  0)  into  2  branchcjs  or 
months,  called  the  Saint  John  and  the  Prairie  Rivers. 
The  ride  "  around  the  mountain,"  giving  one  an  oppor- 
tunity to  see  something  of  this  section,  is  a  favorite  one 
with  residents,  as  is  also  that  of  La  Chine,  where,  at  the 
proper  hours,  one  may  enjoy  the  great  sight  of  the  steam- 
boats and  rafts  *'  shooting"  the  rapids. 

The  places  to  see  in  Montreal  are  many :  an  American 
will  be  most  surprised  in  the  older  or  lower  part  of  the 
town,  beginning  in  the  vicinity  of  Notre  Dame  Cathedral. 
This  quarter  resembles  Quebec  considerably  in  its  medisB- 
val,  uncouth,  indescribable  houses  and  streets.  If  possible, 
the  visitor,  who  wishes  to  see  the  real  peculiar  life  of  these 
French  Canadians,  should  be  in  Montreal  on  the  Corpus 
Christi  festival  of  the  Roman  Church,  otherwise  colled 
^ete  Dicu,  (occurring,  this  year,  June  14th,)  when  the 
"  Host"  is  carried  in  solemn  procession  through  the  streets, 
and  an  immense  throng  of  believers  bow  in  veneration  be- 
fore it.  The  Notre  Dame  Cathedral  stands  near  the  quays 
and  the  Bonsecours  Market,  and,  hardly  excepting  the 
Victoria  Bridge,  is  the  greatest  object  of  interest  iu  the 
city.  Indeed,  the  Roman  Catholic  churches  are  first  in  the 
usual  catalogue  of  tourists ;  for  this  is  a  Roman  Catholic 
city  to  all  intents  and  purposes.  It  is  the  see  of  a  bishop 
of  that  church ,  but  is  also  the  see  of  an  Anglican  arch- 
bishop, who  is  the  Metropolitan  of  Canada.  The  great 
cathedral  is  of  Gothic  architecture,  255  feet  long,  134  wide ; 


m 
Hi 


U 


4^ 


24 


THE    DOMINION    OF   CANADA. 


ii\ 


\ 


witli  2  principal  towers,  220  feet  high;  the  g^eat  hell, 
whose  ringing  is  an  event,  weighs  14  tons,  and  occupies 
the  south  tower,  while  in  the  other  are  a  chime  of  hells  ; 
and  the  church  will  contain  10,000  to  12,000  people. 
There  is  a  convent  connected  with  the  estate.  The  Jesuit 
Church,  on  Bleury  street,  has  the  finest  frescoing  in  the  city, 
or,  some  say,  in  the  land  The  new  Christ  Cathedral  of 
the  English  Church  on  Xotre  Dame  street,  and  the  Irish 
Cathedral,  and  the  church  of  the  Scotch  "  Kirk,"  on  La 
Gauchetiere  street,  are  each  well  worthy  a  visit.  So,  also, 
one  will  wish  to  see  the  Crystal  Palace,  tho  Skating  llink, 
the  Hotel  Dieu,  the  Molson  Bank,  a  most  ornate  edilice,  on 
Great  Saint  James  street,  the  McGill  College,  on  the  moun- 
tain side,  the  Bank  of  Montreal,  near  Notre  Dame,  the 
monument  (1801)  to  Nelson,  in  Trafalgar  square,  at  the 
Place  Jacques  Cartier,  and  th(3  Ciiamp  do  jVIars.  At  the 
latter  place  you  will  see  fine  drilling,  but  you  may  meet 
the  "  red-coats"  everywhere  in  the  city,  as,  indeed,  in  all 
Canada.  'J'horeau  sa?d,  with  more  pungency,  perhaps,  but 
with  much  the  same  spirit  that  would  animate  most 
Yankees  here :  "  The  soldier  here,  as  everywhere  in  Ca- 
nada, appeared  to  be  put  forward,  and  by  his  best  foot. 
On  every  prominent  ledge  you  could  see  England's  hands 
holding  the  Canadas,  and  I  judged  by  tho  redness  of  her 
knuckles  that  slie  would  soon  have  to  let  go.''  Montreal 
is  the  heatl quarters  of  the  British  forces  in  North- America, 
and  is  under  command  of  Major-General  Russell,  one  of  iho 
noblest  and  most  genial  Christian  gentlemen  in  the  land. 
Beside  all  these  matters  of  interest  to  strangers,  there  are, 
of  course,  the  usual  places  and  things  curious  in  a  city  or 
a  metropolis.  There  is  nothing  of  note  in  the  local  govern- 
ment ;  for  the  Parliament  buildings,  formerly  located  here, 
were  burned  in  1849  by  a  political  mob,  have  been  re- 


THE  DOMINION  OP  CANADA, 


25 


placed  by  otliers  at  Quebec,  that  city  having  been  made 
the  seat  of  government  in  consequence. 

The  finest  views  of  the  city  and  vicinity  are  to  be  had 
from  the  top  of  the  great  bell-tower  of  Notre  Dame,  from 
the  reservoir  on  the'shoulder,  and  the  grounds  of  Mr.  James 
Redpath,  on  the  summit,  of  the  Mount  Royal.  Thcso  places 
are  usually  all  accessible.  But  the  Victorin  Bikloe.  which 
spans  the  Great  River  at  the  city,  is  the  lionjyw  excellence 
of  Montreal,  the  eighth  wonder  of  the  world,  the  link  of 
the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  connecting  (for  railway  pur- 
poses only)  the  city  of  Montreal,  on  the  island,  with  the 
mainland  to  the  south,  giving  to  the  ancient  Ilochelaga 
an  unbroken  railway  communication  of  1100  miles  in 
length,  besides  connections.  The  length  of  the  bridge  is 
9194  feet,  or  nearly  2  miles.  It  rests,  in  this  splendid 
transit,  upon  24  piers  and  2  abutments  of  solid  masonry, 
the  central  span  being  330  feet  in  length.  The  heavy  iron 
tube  through  which  the  railway  track  is  laid  is,  in  its 
largest  dimensions,  22  feet  high  and  16  feet  wide.  The 
total  cost  of  this  bridge  was  $0,300,000.  It  was  formally 
opened,  with  high  pomp  and  ceremony,  amidst  great 
popular  rejoicings,  by  Albert,  Prince  of  Wales,  during  his 
visit  to  America  in  the  summer  of  1860.  It  is  possible  for 
the  visitor  to  obtain  permission  to  walk  through  the  great 
tube,  by  applying  at  the  Grand  Trunk  offices  at  Point 
Charles,  near  the  Bridge.  Of  course  the  time  for  such 
a  feat  must  bo  carefully  chosen.  By  this  means  one  may 
gain  a  bettor  idea  of  the  magnitude  of  the  undertaking 
than  he  would  be  likely  to  have  by  the  mere  rail  transit. 
On  our  journey  we  pass  under  the  bridge,  before  reaching 
the  city — the  smoke-stacks  of  steamboats  being  made  so 
that  the  upper  portion  of  them  can  be  lowered  on  occasion. 

The  "  Ice  Shove,"  a  most  imposing  spectacle,  may  be 


i 


^k 


ai 


THE   DOMINION   OF    CANADA. 


1 


witnessed  by  those  travelers  who  arrive  at.  Montreal  to- 
ward the  beginning  of  April.  This  strange  phenomenon 
results  from  the  crowding  of  the  ice  about  a  mile  below 
the  city,  where  the  channel  of  the  river  is  comparatively 
narrow ;  there  it  is  packed,  piled,  and  frozen  into  a  solid 
mass  of  20  to  30  feet  in  thickness,  which,  when  lifted  by 
the  rising  waters  above,  and  set  in  motion  again  by  the 
whole  hydraulic  power  of  the  gigantic  stream,  rushes  on- 
ward until  again  impeded  by  the  banks  of  the  narrowing 
river.  The  lateral  pressure  it  there  exerts  forces  the  hor- 
dage  u[>  on  the  land,  where  it  not  unfrequently  accumu- 
lates to  the  height  of  50  feet. 

Leaving  Montreal,  the  tourist  usually  loses  most  of  the 
scenery  to  Quebec,  as  the  journey  is  made  between  7  r.M. 
and  7  a.m.  Our  Saguenay-bound  friends  will  be  on  the 
river  with  us  now,  until  they  leave  us  at  Tadoussac ;  but 
the  excursions  to  Anticosti,  Saint  John's,  and  Halifax, 
being  really  a  sea  voyage,  are  made  in  larger  vessels. 

Passing  down  the  river  below  Longueil,  (4  miles,)  and 
the  junction  of  the  north  branch  of  the  Ottawa,  steering  a 
course  among  a  number  of  islands  scattered  about  in  the 
stream,  we  come  to  the  head  of  Lake  Saint  Peter.  This  is 
the  third  of  the  great  exx)ansions  of  the  Saint  Lawrence, 
and  the  last  before  the  whole  stream  widens  its  course,  and 
casts  itself  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean  by  the  Gulf.  We  are 
now  45  miles  below  Montreal.  Here  is  a  village  called 
Sorel,  standing  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  which  contri- 
butes the  waters  of  Lakes  Champlain  and  Iloricon  to  the 
great  river.  This  strait  is  80  niUes  in  length,  and  has 
four  names :  Richelieu,  Sorel,  Saint  John,  and  Chambly. 
House's  Point  stands  at  its  head,  just  over  the  interna- 
tional boundary. 

On  the  way  to  the  lake,  we  should  perhaps  mention 


fef 


'1- 


n 


THE   DOMINION   OF   CANADA. 


27 


Varcnnos,  1.")  miles  from  Montreal,  because  of  its  mineral 
pprino'H,  now  coming  into  some  fame.  But  Sorel  is  our 
first  sto])|)ing-|)lace.  The  place  is  also  called  \Villiam 
Henry,  after  Kino-  William  IV.,  who,  when  in  the  naval 
service,  and  lying  off  Quebec,  visited  this  shore.  There 
was  a  fort  built  here  in  1G05,  by  De  Tracey,  and  for  many 
years  was  the  summer  residence  of  successive  governors 
of  Canada.  The  town  occupies  the  old  site.  Tliere  is 
splendid  snipe-shooting  in  this  neighborhood  in  October, 
and  good  fishing  all  the  year  among  the  islands. 

The  Lake  Saint  Peter  is  25  miles  long  and  9  broad ;  a 
place  of  no  manner  of  interest,  excepting  to  such  unlucky 
wights  as  are  "  stuck  "  or  shipwrecked  in  its  miserable 
basin.  There  is  very  good  pike-fishing  here,  we  should 
say,  and  good  duck-shooting  along  the  shores ;  but  the 
most  part  of  the  lake  is  shallow,  and  the  channel,  which 
has  been  dredged  out  with  much  labor,  is  very  intricate, 
and  in  stormy  weather  the  Lake  Saint  Peter  is  a  dangerous 
as  well  as  uninteresting  place.  For  want  of  other  excite- 
ment, the  traveler  by  daytime,  if  by  any  chance  tliere 
might  be  such  an  individual,  might  here  notice  the  rafts  or 
raftsmen  of  the  river.  They  constitute  quite  a  feature  in 
the  river  life.  Oftentimes,  one  could  see  quite  a  collection 
of  the  rafts  lashed  together,  floating  lazily  down  with  the 
current,  or  courting  a  breeze  with  huge  pieces  of  canvas 
spread  out  from  an  upright  fir-pole.  On  the  rafts  each 
proprietor  erects  a  shanty  for  his  temporary  residence,  oc- 
cupied often  several  weeks,  and  when,  with  gay ly-decked 
flag  and  sail-poles,  shouting  and  singing  "  Canadian  boat- 
men," and  a  good  impulse,  these  queer  craft  go  hurrying 
down  the  river,  the  effect  is  picturesque  enough  to  enter- 
tain many  dull  hours. 

At  the  northern  or  lower  end  of  Saint  Peter  we  find  the 


m 

Hi 
I  ill 


■•   H 


■i^  M 


■  P-       t>^1 


1 1  '■ ' 

Ij 


m  I 


r 


3i    t 


I!  t! 


28 


THE  DOMINION  OF   CANADA. 


city  of  Three  Rivers,  so  named  because  tlio  Saint  Mau- 
rice, pouring  in  its  waters  at  this  point,  divides,  as  it 
enters,  into  three  channels.  Tliis  is  about  the  middle 
point  between  Montreal  and  Quebec,  being  90  miles  from 
each.  A  lloman  Catholic  bishop  has  his  seat  here,  and 
the  cathedral  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  finest  in  Canada. 
The  city  is  mainly  indebted  to  the  lumber  business  for  its, 
prosperity  ;  but  the  Saint  Maurice  Forges,  where  bog-iron 
is  converted  into  car-wheels,  box-stoves,  etc.,  have  been  in 
operation  for  more  than  a  century. 

The  River  Saint  Maurice  is  a  large  and  important  tribu- 
tary of  the  Saint  Lawrence,  400  miles  in  length,  rising  in 
the  fine  lake  country  in  the  north,  but  very  little  is  known 
of  it.  A  trip  up  this  river  is  highly  recommended  to  such 
tourists  as  love  to  seek  wild  scenery  through  the  difficul- 
ties of  a  primitive  country.  There  are  innumerable  small 
lakes  in  the  section  between  the  Saint  Maurice  and  the 
Saguenay,  and  the  woods  and  waters  teem  with  those 
creatures  which  seem  to  have  been  created  for  the  delecta- 
tion of  sportsmen.  ' 

About  30  miles  up  the  Saint  Maurice  the  River  Shawe- 
negan  joins  it,  and  a  little  above  this  point,  on  the  former 
stream,  are  the  Falls  of  the  Shawenegan,  150  feet  high. 
The  current  of  the  river,  though  rapid,  may  be  ascended 
by  canoes,  end  the  tourist  may  engage  these,  with  voya- 
geurs,  at  Three  Rivers.  There  is  another  fall,  the  Grand- 
Mere,  above,  with  a  portage  between.  A  steamboat  plies 
on  the  waters  of  the  Saint  Francis  between  Grandes  Piles 
and  La  Tuque,  the  latter  80  miles  from  the  Saint  Law- 
rence. Algonquin  guides  can  be  had  hereabout  who  are 
able  to  start  a  moose  from  cover  in  the  proper  season. 

W^  should  observe,  before  we  leave  Three  Rivers,  that 


Si 


THE  DOMINION   OF  CANADA. 


29 


ided 
ioya- 
[aiid- 
)lies 
►iles 
jaw- 
are 

that 


it  stands  at  the  head  of  tide-water,  90  miles  from  Quebec 
and  290  from  the  ocean. 

Batiscan,  Sainte  Anne,  and  Jacques  Car  tier  Rivers  (the 
last  formerly  a  good  salmoa  stream,  now  being  improved 
again  by  a  Quebec  club)  break  the  monotony  of  the  re- 
maining distance  to  Quebec. 

Below  Quebec  we  come  to  a  new  phase  of  the  Great 
River.  Tlie  banks,  wliich  have  liitherto  been  low  and  fer- 
tile, now  begin  to  manifest  a  sense  of  the  dignity  wliich 
becomes  the  shores  of  so  mighty  a  torrent.  We  have  long 
passed  the  limit  of  salt  and  tide-water,  and  shall  no  longer 
be  iii  danger  of  taking  a  treacherous  beverage  from  over 
the  boat's  side.  Shortly  after  the  river  passes  the  walled 
city,  it  begins  to  widen  ;  and,  except  that  just  beyond  Isle 
aux  Coudres  it  is  narrow  for  a  little,  the  breadth  is  kept, 
in  the  main,  and  steadily  increased,  being  at  Tadoussac, 
which  some  call  the  end  of  the  river,  fully  18  miles. 

The  Quarantine  for  Quebec  is  30  miles  down,  at  Grosse 
Isle — a  beautiful  place,  but  saddening  in  the  memory  of 
the  COOO  Irish  emigrants  buried  in  one  grave  here,  in  the 
terrible  year  of  famine  in  their  native  land. 

There  is  a  group  of  islands  about  36  miles  down,  of 
which  the  chief,  united  by  a  belt  of  low  land,  are  Crane 
and  Goose.  They  are  the  resort  of  myriads  of  geese, 
ducks,  and  teal.  The  game-laws  are  rigidly  kept  by  the 
McPherson  family,  owners  of  this  Seigneury ;  but  permis- 
sion for  a  day's  shooting  can  be  obtained  without  diffi- 
culty. 

Chateau  Richter,  below,  has  a  fine  vicinity.  The 
swamps  bearing  the  same  name  furnish  3000  or  4000 
snipe  per  season,  and  so  on.  It  is  easier  to  say  where 
game  is  not  to  be  had  hereabout  than  where  it  is.  The 
Canadian  Hand-Book  remarks,  "  The  shores  of  the  whole 


"    I;  1     ' 


w- 


■'    'i 


it 


ii   I 


I! 


"i  I 


£|f  f 
|l         1| 


[1    !. 


80 


THE   DOMINION   OF   CANADA. 


of  tlie  lower  Saint  Lawrence  are  probably  unequaled  in 
the  world  for  the  numbers  and  variety  of  wild  fowl  which 
frequent  them.  In  the  fall  of  the  year  especially,  they 
swarm  with  ducks,  teal,  and  other  sea-fowl.  At  the  en- 
trance of  the  gulf  the  bird-rocks  are  tenanted  by  large 
numbers  of  gannets,  puffins,  guillemots,  auks,  and  kitti- 
wakes,  and  their  eggs  are  an  article  of  traffic  to  some  of 
the  neighboring  coasters." 

There  are  also  many  attractive  places  here,  particularly 
the  Falls  of  Sainte  Anne,  of  Fereol,  and  the  Seven  Falls. 
The  ravine  of  the  first  of  these  is  described  as  exceedingly 
bold  and  fine. 

The  river  below  Goose  Island,  as  far  as  the  mouth  of  the 
Saguenay,  at  Tadoussac,  is  nearly  120  miles  wide  ;  the  tides 
rise  18  feet,  the  water  is  clear  and  ccjld,  and  the  channel  very 
deep.  Here  may  be  seen  oftentimes  the  black  seal,  the 
white  porpoise,  and  the  black  whale.  Murray  Bay,  on  the 
north  shore,  and  Riviere  du  Loup  and  Cacouna,  on  th'^ 
south,  share  with  Tadoussac  the  distinction  of  sea-side  re- 
sorts for  Montrealers. 

Murray  Bay,  80  or  90  miles  below  Quebec,  is  a  small, 
quiet  watering-place,  flanked  with  frowning  hills  and  wild 
scenery,  with  good  fishing  in  a  river  of  the  same  name. 
It  is  a  place  well  adapted  to  persons  seeking  quiet  enjoy- 
ment and  society  (being  well  patronized  by  excellent  peo- 
ple) during  the  summer.    Our  vessel  will  stop  at  the  '  ly. 

Eight  leagues  beyond  Murray  Bay,  on  the  same  (north) 
shore,  is  a  very  lofty  cape,  at  a  place  called  Les  Bales  des 
Rochers.  On  its  summit,  where  man  has  never  been, 
there  has  existed  from  time  immemorial  a  raven's  nest. 

Riviere  du  Loup  is  another  favorite,  more  fashionable 
watering-place,  114  miles  below  Quebec,  named  from  the 
Du  Loup,  which  comes  into  the  Saint  Lawrence  here,  after 


t 

al 

oj 


I 


THE  DOMINION   OF   CANADA. 


31 


njoy- 
peo- 

ortli) 
s  des 
:>een, 
st. 

nable 
.  tlie 
after 


indulging  itself,  a  milo  back,  in  a  fall  of  80  feet.  The 
Grand  Trunk  Rail\\  ay  stops  its  northward  aspirations  at 
this  town.  Sea-bathing,  fishing,  and  society  form  the  at- 
tractions of  Riviere  du  Loup  in  the  season. 

Cacouna  is  6  miles  below — 120  miles  from  Quebec.  It 
is  to  Canadians  quite  as  fashionable  and  favorite  a  place  as 
Newport  or  Long  Branch  to  Americans.  It  occupies  a  fine 
position  upon  the  river,  choice  in  climate  and  bathing 
facilities,  and  is  much  patronized  also  by  visitors  from 
"the  States." 

The  Grand  Falls  of  the  Saint  John  River  are  compara- 
tively easy  of  access  from  Cacouna,  by  way  of  Riviere  du 
Loup,  by  tri-weekly  stage.  The  falls  are  midway  upon 
the  journey  (450  miles  in  all)  of  this  the  great  river  of 
New-Brunswick  to  the  sea.  At  a  sudden  turn  the  river 
contracts  to  a  width  of  not  more  than  50  yards,  and 
plunges  down  in  a  solid  mass  to  a  basin  40  feet  below ; 
then  follows  a  succession  of  falls,  making  40  feet  more  of 
descent  in  about  a  mile.  The  water  rushes  through  what 
might  be  termed  a  winding  chasm,  whose  sides  are  per- 
haps 150  or  200  feet  high,  perpendicular,  and  composed  of 
a  bluish  slate.  Generally  speaking,  the  entire  distance 
from  the  first  fall  to  the  last  presents  a  sheet  of  foam, 
though  around  every  jutting  point  is  a  black  and  appa- 
rently bottomless  pool,  teeming  with  fish.  There  is  a  com- 
fortable stopping-place  kept  at  the  falls  by  Mrs.  Russell. 

Tadoussac  is  said  to  stand  at  the  entrance  of  the  Sague- 
nay  into  the  Saint  Lawrence,  140  miles  from  Quebec  and 
320  from  Montreal,  but  really  it  is  5  miles  up  that  great 
tributary.  (See  sketch  entitled  The  Saguenay  River.) 
It  is  a  place  of  not  a  little  popularity  for  its  sea-bathing 
and  fishing,  but  to  the  traveler  it  will  be  most  interesting 
on  account  of  its  antiquity  and  history.    For  here,  so  tra- 


'1^ 

A  1» 


siifi 


'ii 


:,;.i 


32 


TflK   DOMINION   OP   CANADA. 


i    ! 


r  i 


dition,  confinnnd  l)y  nature,  liatli  it,  was  oroctcd  tho  first 
of  all  Btono  and  mortar  buildings  on  tho  continent  of 
America.  Fatlier  Marqui^tto,  tho  famed  Jesuit  misHionary, 
lionoriMl  in  name  on  tlio  extreme  western  portions  of  tho 
Great  Kiver,  built  hi^re  a  stone  church  some  time  in  tho 
sixteenth  century,  and  its  ruins  may  still  be  seem,  a  littlo 
back  of  the  landing",  on  tho  hill.  From  the  centre  of  tho 
ruin  has  grown  a  cluster  of  pine-trees,  whicli  must  have 
existed  as  much  as  200  years. 

Tho  town  of  Tadoussac  is  charmingly  situated  U]ion  a 
semi-circular  terrace  at  tho  top  of  a  beautiful  bay  v/ith  a 
sandy  beach,  hemmed  in  by  tho  frowning  cliffs  of  tho  Sa- 
gucnay.  There  is  an  agent  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  CJompany 
here,  and  an  American  consul,  whoso  flag,  waving  with 
tho  Union  Jack  to  bid  welcome  to  tho  approaching  vessel, 
nsually  seems  one  of  tho  brightest  objects  upon  the  land- 
scape to  the  eyes  of  our  tourists.  Tho  Tadoussac  Hotel, 
by  Mr.  Browning,  charges  $3  per  day. 

Trois  Pistoles  is  our  first  station  below  Tadoussac  on  tho 
route  to  Halifax,  and  140  miles  from  Quebec,  on  tho  south 
shore.  Tho  fishing  hero  is  something  fabulous.  Tho 
rocky  islet  2  miles  or  so  from  tho  shore  is  called  tho  Isle 
of  Rosade,  and  was  tho  scene  of  a  dangerous  adventure 
of  some  40  persons  who  were  rescued  and  brought  back 
to  it  from  ice  upon  which  they  had  ventured  and  been 
carried  from  safety.  A  cross  marks  the  memorial  which 
their  gratitude  has  set  up.  Wo  are  now  fairly  upon  the 
broad  and  constantly  spreading  arm  of  the  sea,  far  re- 
moved from  all  accustomed  river  scenery,  and  fast  hasten- 
ing, like  the  waters  which  bear  us,  to  the  open  Atlantic. 
It  is  quite  an  unsettled  question  whether  the  gulf  begins 
at  Anticosti  Island  or  at  Tadoupsac ;  but  certainly,  which- 
ever be  our  theory,  we  can  not  but  be  impressed  with  the 


TIIK   DOMINION   OF   CANADA. 


33 


II 


clmnpfo  wliicli  n  day'R  Rail  ImH  wrouplit  upon  tli(3  beautiful 
riv<'r.  Thri  frviAo^'wnl  olmcrvr  r  will  pCirliapH  a^^njo  with 
UH  in  findinpf  tho  opening  of  tho  rivrr  into  tlio  j^ulf  at 
TroiH  PiHtolofl,  although  tho  p(az<)tt(u?rH,  etc.,  ^ivo  tlie 
mouth  of  t^io  MadchiiiKi  (hit.  49'  30)  as  tho  true  ])oint  I 
for  w(i  mark  on  tho  Houth(!rn  coaHt  of  tho  Saint  JjEwninco, 
at  a  (liHtanco  varying?  from  10  to  40  miloH  inland,  tho  ran^o 
of  mountains  variously  cailod  Notro  ])amo,  Hhicksliock, 
and  Salnto  Anno  Mountains — a  sij^n,  ordinarily,  of  an  ocoan 
coast.  Thoso  mountains  bo^in  aljout  south  of  Trois  Pis- 
toles, and  extend  all  tho  way  to  (Jasp6  Bay. 

Tliirty  miles  b(?yond  Trois  I*istol(!S  are  island,  X)romon- 
tory,  and  harbor  of  Lo  Bic,  (the  Eagle's  Beak,)  an  exccd- 
h)nt  ancient  landing-place,  still  honored.  Near  it  is  the 
L'Islet  au  Massacre,  remembered  as  the  scene  of  the  bloody 
massacre  of  all  but  5  of  200  Micmac  Indians  l)y  their  Iro 
quois  foes. 

Kimouski,  still  on  tho  south  shore,  is  180  miles  from 
Quebec,  on  the  river  of  the  same  name.  Hotel,  Saint  Lau- 
rent's, excellent.  The  trout-fishing  up  tho  riv(;r  is  the 
chief  inducement  to  stop.  There  is  a  good  deal  of  business 
done  in  town  in  saw-mills,  ship-yards,  and  tho  like,  and. 
tho  government  wharf  here  is  very  fine. 

Metis  is  200  miles  from  Quebec,  on  the  south  shore, 
boasting  the  best  of  the  government  wharves.  It  is  a 
whaling  town,  after  a  manner  ;  tho  "  humi)-back  "  species, 
yielding  three  to  eight  tons  of  oil,  aro  hunted  in  schooners, 
and  harpooned  in  the  regular  orthodox  manner. 

Some  50  miles  further  down,  we  reach  tho  Point  de 
Monts,  on  the  northern  coast,  and  Cape  Cliatte,  a  few  miles 
above  Sainto  Anne,  the  most  northerly  town  on  the  south- 
ern coast  of  the  Saint  Lawrence.  Here  are  the  last  ap- 
proaches of  the  two  shores ;  beyond  Point  de  Monts  the 


I'-?*! 


34 


THE  DOMINION   OF   CANADA. 


til 

M 


i 


northern  slioro  turns  almost  due  north,  receiving  Trinity 
River  at  the  bay  of  the  same  name  (not  the  famous  tele- 
graph station)  a  few  miles  distant  in  that  direction.  The 
southern  shore  rounds  away  again  afteY  it  has  ceased  to  be 
a  river  coast  and  at  its  most  northerly  point  (there  are  no 
more  settlements  of  any  importance)  the  River  Madeleine 
empties  into  the  gulf  amid  the  wildest  scenery.  There 
are  horizontal  layers  of  limestone  here,  fretted  away  all 
around  their  base  by  the  action  of  the  tides  and  waves, 
which  assume  the  most  fantastic  shapes.  A  legend  of  the 
fishermen  dwelling  here  explains  the  moaning  sound  in 
the  hollow,  surf-filling  caverns,  by  the  tale  from  which 
the  place  draws  its  name.  Of  a  shipwrecked  family  an 
infant  only  was  washed  ashore  alive,  and  its  wailings,  re- 
sulting in  its  relief,  are  imagined  to  be  yet  identical  with 
the  moans  of  the  waves,  hence  the  name  Le  Braillard  de 
la  Madeleine. 

Rounding  now  the  great  shoulder  of  the  Province  of 
Quebec,  we  come,  on  the  eastern  side,  to  Cape  Roziere, 
passing,  meanwhile,  the  western  half  of  the  desert  Anti- 
costi  Island.  Anticosti  has  2600  square  miles,  or  one 
fourth  more  than  the  State  of  Rhode  Island  ;  its  interior  is 
mountainous  and  wooded,  and,  as  might  bo  supposed,  the 
climate  would  be  very  severe.  The  northern  coast  is  high 
and  has  no  harbors ;  the  southern  coast  is  low  and  very 
dangerous.  A  light-house  warns  vessels  off  the  south- 
western point.  At  Cape  Roziere,  just  over  Gaspe  Bay,  on 
the  most  eastern  projection  of  the  Province,  there  is  a  curi- 
ous natural  arch,  called  Perce  Rock,  under  which  a  fish- 
ing-smack under  full  sail  may  pass.  Formerly  there  was 
also  a  fantastic  boulder  closer  to  shore — for  Perce  Rock  is 
at  some  distance  out — called  Ship  Head,  so  fashioned  as  to 
resemble  strikingly,  in  calm  weather,  a  large  ship  under 


THE   DOMINION   OF   CANADA.. 


35 


fiill  sail.  It  has  toppled  over  now ;  but  there  is  some  odd- 
ness  in  the  remaining  rocks,  called  the  Old  Man,  as  the 
phantom  was  sometimes  disrespectfully  termed  the  Old 
Woman. 

Cape  Desespoir  is  the  most  dangerous  point  on  the  coast  ; 
and  passing  this,  we  soon  come  to  Chaleurs  Bay.  Hero 
we  will  take  leave  of  the  tour,  which  no  longer  fairly 
comes  under  the  title  of  the  "  Saint  Lawrence  Voyage," 
and  leave  the  reader  to  those  mercies  of  the  remaining 
sea-voyage  to  Halifax  and  Saint  John  which  seldom  leave 
much  preference  for  the  perusal  of  "  resort-books." 

THE   SAOTJEKAY   EIVEB. 

Next  to  the  great  and  popular  Saint  Lawrence  voyage — 
of  which,  indeed,  it  is  properly  a  part — the  trip  up  the 
Saguenay  River,  from  Tadoussac  to  Ha  I  Ha !  Bay,  or  the 
Lake  Saint  John,  is  the  very  grandest  which  the  traveler 
may  seek  east  of  the  Missouri.  Within  less  than  ten 
years,  public  attention  has  been  considerably  attracted 
thither,  and  that  region,  which  formerly  appeared  in  all  its 
fitting  wildness  to  the  stray  traveler,  is  now  becoming 
more  and  more  frequented  every  year.  Not  the  least  of 
the  attractions  of  this  great  journey  is  its  singular  cheajv 
ness.  If  one  shall  go  from  New- York  City,  with  explicit 
reference  to  it  alone — a  more  costly  method,  of  course, 
than  to  add  it  to  other  trips  north  and  east — the  expense 
will  be  about  as  follows ;  Fare,  all  rail,  from  New- York  to 
Montreal,  (the  water  journey  on  the  Hudson  and  Lakes 
George  and  Champlain,  if  meals  and  state-rooms  be  in- 
cluded, will  not  be  materially  loss,)  $12.50 ;  the  Saguenay 
round  trip  proper,  by  steamboat,  (transfer  made  at  Quebec 
going  and  returning,)  $7  in  silver,  berth  in  state  room  and 
meals  included  between  Montreal  and  Quebec;   below 


tfi- 


30 


THE   DOMINION   OP   CANADA. 


11 


1:1  : 


I  ]'] 


i 


Quobec,  moals  and  Htato-room  berth  50  cents  each,  in  sil- 
ver. A  (lay  in  Quebec  (vvliicli  tlie  regular  delay  of  the 
boat  affords)  "vvill  cost  from  $1  (always  Bilver,  till  you 
return  to  the  Stars,  Stripes,  and  grecui backs)  to  $10  or 
more,  accordinpf  to  tho  amount  of  "sight-seeing"  done; 
and  tho  tour  of  Tadoussac,  or  of  Grand  Basin,  will  add  a 
dollar  or  two  more.  Probably,  the  traveler  will  bo  obliged 
to  spend  Sunday  in  Burlington  or  Montreal,  adding  $6  to 
$10  American  money  ;  for,  as  tho  time  from  New- York  to 
INIontreal  is  17  hours,  (it  has  been  done  in  14,)  leaving 
New- York  at  7  a.m.  Monday,  and  as  tho  boat  leaves  Mon- 
treal at  7  r.M.  Monday,  tho  tourist  must  either  spend  Sun- 
day within  roach,  or  wait  for  Wednesday's  or  Friday's 
boat,  or  take  tho  possible  chance  of  overtaking  Monday's 
boat  at  Kivicre  du  Loup,  by  Grand  Trunk  Railway  from 
Montreal.  The  whole  cost  from  New-York  to  the  Sague- 
nay  and  return,  therefore,  need  not  exceed  $G0. 

The  route  to  the  Great  River  will  vary  according  to  the 
tourist's  preferences.  Most  of  the  methods  of  approach 
■vvill  be  found  described  in  other  parts  of  this  volume. 
(See  Along  the  Hudson,  Lake  George,  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  Ri\  i':ii  Saint  Lawrence,  etc.)  The  briefest  is  as 
follows  from  New- York  :  Leaving  Thirtieth  Street  depot 
(Hudson  River  Railway)  at  7  a.m.,  the  traveler  will  reach 
Montreal  at  7  the  next  morning.  Tho  steamboats  for  the 
Saguenay  leave  Montreal  (beginning  about  July  20th)  at 
7  P.M.  on  Mondays,  Wednesdays,  and  Fridays.  Taking 
the  Monday  boat  (the  best,  usually,  we  understand)  for 
an  example,  her  trips  are  as  follows :  Quebec,  Tuesday, 
6  A.M. ;  Tadoussac,  (mouth  of  Saguenay,)  10  p.m.  Ascend- 
ing the  river  in  the  night,  the  chief  points  are  passed  just 
as  day  is  breaking  :  Ha !  Ha !  Bay,  head  of  steam  naviga- 
tion,) 6  A.M.  Wednesday.    Four  hours'  delay  at  this  point, 


I 


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THE   DOMINION   OF   CANADA. 


37 


allowinj^  an  ample  visit  to  tlio  village.  The  day  is  con- 
sumed in  the  grand  river  journey,  passing  Capes  Trinity 
and  Eternity  (the  chief  points)  just  before  dinner ;  Tadous- 
sac  again  about  5  p.m.  Several  hours  of  daylight  remain 
for  the  fine  sail  in  the  broad  Saint  Lawrence,  and  the  next 
dawn  (Thursday)  shows  the  Falls  of  Montmorenci,  and 
soon  after  the  city  of  Quebec.  The  whole  day,  until  4  p.m., 
is  at  the  tourist's  command,  which  most  will  improve  by 
a  tour  of  the  American  Cadiz ;  carriages  for  the  day,  to  go 
to  the  Falls — 7  miles — the  Plains  of  Abraham,  etc.,  may 
be  hired  at  the  wharf  (make  your  bargain  at  the  start)  for 
$3  in  silver.  The  steamer  upon  which  the  journey  was 
made  from  Montreal  to  Quebec  is  again  taken,  and,  after  a 
fine  night's  rest,  the  traveler  finds  himself  back  at  the 
granite  docks  of  the  city  of  Montreal  just  in  time  (usually) 
to  ride  rapidly  (hack  charge,  50  cents)  to  the  morning 
trains  going  southward  from  Bonaventure  Station.  Wo 
take  occasion  here  again  to  caution  strangers  in  Montreal, 
or  anywhere  else  upon  the  shores  or  waters  of  the  River 
Saint  Lawrence,  to  use  the  greatest  moderation  in  drink- 
ing water ;  for  the  river  water,  universally  used  hereabout, 
though  delightful  to  the  taste,  is  almost  invariably  provo- 
cative of  violent  diarrhea  to  those  unaccustomed  to  it. 

In  regard  to  the  steamers  making  the  Saguenay  excur- 
sion, there  is  usually  more  or  less  competition  against  the 
Royal  Mail  or  Richelieu  Line,  which  is  the  "  regular  "  one ; 
ana  the  traveler  will  probably  find  a  pleasant  financial 
economy  in  avoiding  the  over-crowded  Richelieu  boats  for 
their  less  popular  but  equally  good  —  often  superior  — 
rivals. 

The  journey  up  the  Saguenay  has  a  wide  fame  for  its 
grandeur ;  but  the  tourist  must  not  form  too  peculiar  an 
estimate  of  its  character.  The  common  supposition  among 


i 
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''' ' 


38 


THE   DOMINION   OP   CANADA. 


those  who  know  of  it  only  through  inaccurate  sketches  or 
guide-books,  that  it  is  a  narrow,  almost  bottomless  chasm, 
with  beetling,  rocky  banks,  which  shut  out  the  light  of 
day,  is  entirely  mistaken,  and  should  be  abandoned  before 
one  visits  the  river.  A  most  suitable  preparation  for  the 
Saguenay  trip,  which  we  earnestly  recommend  to  the 
tourist  from  New- York,  is  a  visit  to  the  Ait  Sable  Chasm, 
near  Lake  Champlain,  (see  article  on  The  Adirondacks, 
near  the  end,)  lying  almost  directly  on  the  route  from 
New- York  to  Montreal.  By  leaving  the  all-rail  route  at 
Burlington,  and  crossing  to  Port  Kent  and  Keeseville,  the 
tourist  will  be  able  to  spend  his  Sundays  after  seeing  the 
chasm,  at  the  latter  village,  and  start  Monday  morning  in 
time  to  catch  the  evening  boat  to  t!:-^  Saguenay.  Hotel  at 
Keeseville,  Au  Sable  House ;  excellent  rooms,  and  table, 
and  charges  much  lower  than  at  Montreal  or  even  Bur- 
lington. 

The  tourist  from  Boston  may  catch  the  Monday  b6at 
from  Montreal  by  taking  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway, 
through  Portland,  to  Quebec  or  Riviere  du  Loup — a  te- 
dious journey.  The  route  ma  Concord  and  Wo11f5  River 
Junction  is  far  preferable;  but  at  the  present  v. .  I'ag  we 
can  not  be  sure  that  the  7.30  A.M.  train  from  Borv:on  will 
reach  Montreal  in  time  for  the  Saguenay  boat.  Prooably 
local  trains  between  Essex  Junction  and  Montreal  will  be 
adapted  to  this  want. 

Close  upon  the  boundary-line  between  the  Dominion  of 
Canada  and  the  Hudson's  Bay  Territory  rise  eleven  consi- 
derable rivers,  which  flow  from  that  uninhabited  wilder- 
ness into  the  Lake  Saint  John,  150  miles  above  the  Saint 
Lawrence,  and  nearly  due  north  of  Quebec.  This  lake  is 
80  miles  long  and,  in  its  widest  part,  as  many  broad ;  its 
climate  is  preferable  to  that  of  the  sea-coast ;  the  waters 


^ 


THE  DOMINION   OF   CANADA. 


30 


^ 


are  uncommonly  clear,  and  abound  with  the  choicest  fish  ; 
and  the  fall  of  the  Oueat  Chouan,  (signifying  in  Indian, 
"  Do  you  see  a  fall  there  ?")  336  feet  high,  is  so  conspicuous 
as  to  be  seen  40  or  50  miles  distant.  The  Saguenay  River 
is  the  sole  outlet  of  this  lake,  flowing  for  the  first  half  of 
its  course  in  a  narrow  (half  a  mile)  stream,  over  falls  and 
rapids,  through  an  unbroken  wilderness  ;  most  of  the  lat- 
ter half  comprises  the  famous  scenery  which  the  tourist 
seeks.  There  are  but  four  settlements  upon  the  whole 
length  of  the  river :  Chicoutimi,  68  miles  from  the  mouth 
at  the  Saint  Lawrence ;  Ha  !  Ila  !  Bay,  or  Grand  Basin, 
at  the  head  of  navigation,  60  miles ;  Saint  John's  Bay,  33 
miles ;  and  Tadoussac,  5  miles  from  the  Saint  Lawrence. 
The  steamboats  ascend  the  river  to  Ha !  Ha !  Bay  in  the 
night ;  and  so  the  tourist  first  beholds  the  great  river  at 
the  northern  extremity  of  its  wilder  portion.  Below  Ha ! 
Ha!  Bay  (so  named  becavise  of  the  delightful  contrast 
which  the  first  French  voyagers  there  beheld  after  the 
awful  solitude  of  the  lower  river)  the  stream  deserves  its 
Indian  name,  Chicoutimi — "  deep  water ;"  for  henceforth  it 
flows  between  rocky  banks,  often  perpendicular,  from  500 
to  1500  feet  high,  with  a  channel  2  miles  wide,  and  so  deep 
that  the  largest  ships  might  sail  from  the  mouth  to  Grand 
Basin.  The  great  depth  of  the  water — varying  from  100 
to  1500  feet — as  well  as,  perhaps,  some  mineral  deposit 
within  it,  renders  it  of  an  inky  blackness,  greatly  adding 
to  the  grandeur  of  ^h.Q  whole  scene.  The  rock  region  bo- 
gins  a  few  miles  below  Ha !  Ha !  Bay,  with  the  Tableau,  a 
lofty  plateau  of  dark-colored  granite  600  feet  high  and  300 
wide,  smooth  as  though  cut  by  the  hand  of  art,  and  ter- 
minating suddenly  with  a  single  perpendicular  rock,  900 
feet  high.  Further  on,  Statue  Point,  a  great  boulder,  800 
feet  high,  is  noticeable  for  a  cave  half-way  up  its  face,  ut- 


'  1-1 : 


40 


THE  DOMINION   OP   CANADA. 


i; 


terly  inaccessible  from  above  or  below,  having  an  orifice 
I)robably  40  feet  in  diameter.  Again,  upon  one  of  tlie  few 
ravines  which  break  the  desolate  solitude  of  the  rocks,  a 
waterfall  appears  high  up  among  the  cliffs,  some  miles 
back  from  the  river,  presenting,  at  a  distance,  the  beauti- 
ful illusion  of  a  castle,  such  as  distinguish  the  liliine. 
But  the  culminating  scene  of  all  is  at  Capes  Trinity  and 
Eternity.  Thirty-nine  miles  from  the  Saint  Lawrence,  a 
mountain  stream,  bursting  its  way  through  the  granite 
wall  to  join  the  Saguenay,  has  formed  a  bay,  whose  two 
banks,  north  and  south,  ar^  the  most  tremendous  promon- 
tories on  all  the  river.  Approaching  from  the  north.  Cape 
Trinity  appears  first — a  single  mountain  of  granite  and 
syenite,  1500  feet  high,  but  so  shapen  as  to  seem  a  giant 
staircase,  the  great  altitude  being  equally  divided  by  three 
stepb  or  shoulders,  each  bearing  a  profile  upon  its  edge, 
the  central  one  of  which  has  been  pronounced  as  distinct 
as  that  at  the  White  Mountains.  With  a  turn  in  the  river 
the  scene  changes,  and  one  may  now  behold  three  giant 
columns,  separate  at  the  lofty  summit,  but  joined  at  the 
base,  completing  this  mighty  work  so  fitly  called  Cape 
Trinity.  Cape  Eternity  is  a  vast,  rounded  mountain, 
1800  feet  high,  bleak  and  bare  as  its  neighbor  across  the 
bay,  but  even  mo'^a  tremendous  in  its  majesty.  Here,  in- 
deed, the  rock  hangs  so  threatening  overhead  that  one 
shudders  and  shrinks  instinctively,  while  the  actually 
measured  depth  of  the  water  is  one  mile  and  a  quarter ; 
and  we  leave  the  place  fully  conscious  that  the  Saguenay 
has  no  rival  along  the  thoroughfares  of  fashionable  travel. 
This  conviction  must  be  fixed  by  the  remaining  journey, 
lying,  as  it  does,  through  an  almost  unbroken,  unchang- 
ing, dismal  wilderness  of  granite,  without  beaches,  coves, 
or  any  creeks  but  mountain  torrents,  and  barren  of  birds. 


2 

o 


Jl) 


THE  DOMINION   OF   CANADA. 


41 


ducks,  or  squirrels,  with  nothing  b^t  shoreless,  lifeless, 
perpendicular  banks  of  rock. 

The  grandeur  of  this  Saguenay  excursion  is,  of  course, 
not  in  its  beauty  or  life,  but  in  its  eternal  solemnity  ;  and 
therefore,  nothing  but  a  strong  love  of  contrast  can  par- 
don our  recurring  to  the  villages  upon  the   river.     The 
tourist,  however,  sees  Ha !  Ha !  Bay  before  he  realizes  the 
scenes  through  which  he  has  already  passed.   He  will  find 
upon  the  shore  a  throng  of  semi-savage  beings,  Canadian 
Indians  mostly,  who  are  anxious  to  put  a  caleche  (called 
calash)  at  his  service  for  a  silver  half-dollar.     One  hardly 
knows,  at  first,  which  object  to  wonder  at  most,  the  driver 
or  his  vehicle ;  but  one  soon  finds  the  two  most  intimately 
related.    In  dry  weather,  the  clay  road  around  Grand  Ba- 
sin is  full  of  ruts  that  can  only  be  called  awful ;  and  the 
eager  fellows  put  their  little  ponies  to  such  a  high  rate  of 
speed  (deeming  this  course  the  shortest  way  to  an  Ameri- 
can's heart)  that  the  unhappy  passenger  almost  longs  ioT 
the  conveyance  common  to  victims  of  Judge  Lynch  in  the 
South.   The  caleche,  universally  used  in  this  portion  of  the 
country,  is  merely  a  buggy,  with  a  narrow  board  in  front 
of  the  proper  seat  for  the  driver ;  but  the  concern  adopted 
by  the  savages  at  the  basin  omits  the  springs !   and  it 
is  only  necessary  to  add,  to  show  the  full  horror  of  "  the 
situation,"  that  the  driver  understands  no  tongue  but  the 
French  Canadian  patois,  and  invariably  translates  any 
ejaculations  on  the  part  of  his  passenger  to  mean  "Go 
faster  I"    The  victim  will  then  bo  thankful  to  know  that 
the  patois  term  for  "  stop  "  or  *'  delay  "  is  arret,  (pronounced 
as  if  it  were  English.) 

There  is  nothing  to  see  at  the  village  of  Grand  Basin, 
2  miles  up  the  bay,  more  than  the  general  primitiveness 
of  civilization — the  little  thatched  cottages,  where  lamps 


m  \ 


' 


42 


THE  DOMINION   OP   CANADA. 


of  tlie  vorital)l(3  Pompeii  pattern  are  used,  tlie  two-story 
Btoves,  the  bircli-Lai'k  canoe,  in  wliich  every  one  sliould 
have  a  row,  the  Hudson's  Bay  agent,  and  the  hotel  where 
fashionables  spwid  part  of  the  summer.  If  possible,  the 
tourist  should  stop  at  Ha !  Ha !  Bay  for  some  time,  and 
make  the  trip  to  the  upper  river  with  some  native  by 
birch-bark  canoe,  a  course  which  very  few  take,  but  with- 
out which  no  man  can  truly  say  he  has  "done'*  the  Sa- 
guenay. 

Ghicoutimi  is  interesting  chiefly  for  its  ancient  church, 
in  which  the  curious  will  find  a  bell  on  which  there  is  an 
inscription  which  no  one  has  deciphered.  Saint  Jo7in's  Bay 
is  merely  a  lumbering  station,  notable,  however,  as  the 
point  at  which  the  deepest  soundings  of  the  river  have 
been  found.  The  average  depth  of  the  channel  is  esti- 
mated at  145  fathoms  (870  feet.)  At  Saint  John's  Bay  the 
depth  is  one  and  one  hMf  miles  ! 

Tadoussac  is  described  in  the  article  on  the  River 
Saint  Lawrence,  as  is  also  the  sail  on  that  river  between 
Tadoussac  and  Montreal.  It  remains  only  to  explain  to 
the  Saguenay  tourist  that  the  commotion  which  he  will 
observe  where  the  waters  of  the  Saint  Lawrence  and  the 
Saguenay  meet  is  caused  by  a  ridge  across  the  mouth  of 
the  latter.  The  bed  of  the  Saguenay,  within  this  ridge, 
is  840  feet  below  surface,  while  the  Saint  Lawrence  bot- 
tom, outside,  is  but  340  feet — a  very  remarkable  fact. 

THE  OTTAWA  KIVER. 

The  Ottawa  (or  Grand)  River  is  the  largest  stream 
wholly  within  the  Dominion,  being  the  chief  river  tribu- 
tary of  the  Saint  Lawrence.  Visitors  from  New- York 
reach  it  by  Hudson  River,  Saratoga,  Lakes  Horicon  and 
Champlain,  or  Saratoga  and  Whitehall,  and  Rutland  and 


THE  DOMINION   OF   CANADA. 


43 


Burlington  Railway  to  Rouse's  Point,  whence  by  rail  to 
Montreal.  From  Boston  one  may  go  by  the  Grand  Trunk 
Railway  direct  from  Portland,  or  by  the  White  Mountain 
route,  (see  White  Mountains,)  or  by  the  Connecticut 
Valley,  (sec  Mansfield  and  Mempiiremagog.)  Most 
travelers,  however,  will  reach  Montreal  and  the  Ottawa 
from  Ogdensburg  and  Niagara,  and  in  any  case  they 
should  time  their  journey  so  as  to  be  able  to  leave  Mont- 
real for  the  Ottawa  at  7  a.m.  by  the  La  Chine  Railway. 
Going  toward  New- York,  on  their  return,  we  commend 
that  travelers  take  the  4  r.M.  train  from  Bonaventure  Sta- 
tion, Montreal,  and  remain  over  night  at  Plattsburg. 
This  w'll  enable  them  to  have  daylight  for  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  and  the  fading  hours,  the  very  choicest  for  that 
scene,  for  Horicon.    (See  sketch  of  Lake  George.) 

The  city  of  Montreal  will  be  found  described  in  its  order 
in  the  article  on  Lake -Ontario  and  the  St.  Lawrence. 
The  best  hotels  are  Saint  Lawrence  Hall  and  Ottawa 
HotqJ,  $3  in  silver,  $4.50  in  American  currency,  per  day  ; 
they  are  nearly  a  mile  from  the  railway  station. 

It  is  a  singular  fact,  and  rather  significant  of  the  rapid 
growth  of  American  cities,  (even  when  in  the  Canada 
section,)  that  the  great  river  at  whose  mouth  stands  the 
chief  commercial  city  of  Her  British  Majesty's  "  Dominion" 
on  this  continent,  is  but  a  half-known,  mysterious  passage 
to  a  savage  wilderness.  Excepting  among  those  employes 
of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  who  must  have  some  know- 
ledge about  it,  no  one  can  certainly  tell  the  length  or  the 
source  of  the  Ottawa  River.  In  1846,  lumberers  had  pene- 
trated as  far  north  as  Lake  Temiscaming,  about  400  miles 
from  the  mouth.  Formerly,  also,  some  40  to  50  canoes 
used  to  ascend  the  river  annually  with  articles  of  traffic, 
as  far  (about  300  miles)  as  the  point  opposite  to  Lake  Ni- 


k 

■'I 


JIR^i 


WJ 


if 


p 


44 


THE   DOMINION   OP   CANADA. 


pissingf,  the  chief  expansion  of  that  series  of  lakes  called 
the  French  River.  Here  they  would  go  by  portages  across 
the  narrow  strip  of  country  from  the  Ottawa  to  the  lake, 
and  descend  to  Lake  Huron,  where  they  traded  with  the 
coureurs  de  Bois,  who  brought  furs  from  the  Indian  hunt- 
ing-grounds above.  And  this  is  ull  that  is  certainly 
known  of  that  mighty  river,  whose  width  and  force  and 
general  appearance  below  would  imply  a  total  length  of 
700  to  800  miles,  if  not  more.  An  opinion  prevails  in  the 
Dominion  that  the  Ottawa  River  and  the  Georgian  Bay 
will  some  time  be  united  by  canalling  that  narrow  strip 
already  mentioned,  and  improving  the  navigation  of  both 
the  Ottawa  and  French  Rivers.  A  governmental  survey 
to  this  end  has  been  set  on  foot. 

The  entrance  of  the  two  great  branches  of  the  Ottawa 
into  the  Saint  Lawrence  may  be  found  fully  described  in 
the  article  on  that  tour.  One  enters  at  the  head  of  Lake 
Saint  Louis,  and  the  other  just  below  Montreal.  The  re- 
fusal of  the  waters  of  the  two  rivers  to  mingle,  at  first,  is 
quite  noticeable  ;  the  dark,  iron-like  color  of  the  Ottawa 
contrasting  strongly  with  the  fading  emerald  that  has 
come  down  from  Niagara. 

The  steamboat  Prince  of  Wales  leaves  La  Chine  on  the 
arrival  of  our  train  from  Montreal,  and  to  that  we  shall  trust 
ourselves,  although  Ottawa  navigation  is  of  such  an  irre- 
gular nature  that  we  shall  change  vessels  frequently  before 
we  reach  our  journey's  end.  We  are  about  starting  on  a 
journey  which  possesses  certain  merits  and  charms  which 
none  in  "  the  States"  can  boast,  and  some  which  surpass 
even  the  sensations  felt  on  either  the  Saint  Lawrence  or 
the  Saguenay.  There  is  no  tour  in  the  Dominion  which 
aflfords  within  itself  alone  so  complete  an  idea  of  the  pecu- 
liar natural  attractions  of  this  wild,  half-known,  glorious 


THE   DOMINION   OP   CANADA. 


45 


country  for  tourists,  as  that  up  tlio  Ottawa.  Tlio  Upper 
Ottawa  may  also  be  readied  by  railway  direct,  from  Pres- 
cott  on  tlie  Saint  Lawrence  to  Ottawa  City. 

At  the  entrance  of  the  Ottawa  into  the  Saint  Lawrence, 
lies  the  picturesque  village  of  Sainte  Anne,  21  miles  from 
Montreal.  Here  is  the  old  church  dear  to  the  voyageurs 
of  the  Great  Iliver  and  its  tributaries,  as  the  last  of  those 
consecrated  to  their  tutelar  Saint ;  and  here,  too,  we  are 
to  remember  that  Tom  Moore  wrote  his  Canadian  Boat- 
sonQt  a  household  word  to  many  who  may  never  behold 
"  Utawas  tide."  His  journey  from  Kingston  to  Montreal 
occupied  five  days — hardly  conducive,  one  would  imagine, 
to  the  spirit  of  his  gentle  words.  But,  if  we  do  hurry  by 
more  rapidly,  we  do  not  gain  that  familiarity  with  the 
waters  which  we  want  to  carry  away  with  us. 

There  is  a  massive  bridge — to  recall  ourselves  from  the 
unpractical  and  poetic — crossing  the  river  here,  supported 
on  16  stone  piers,  for  the  central  section  of  the  Grand 
Trunk  Railway.  Here  also  are  locks  for  the  vessels  which 
must  avoid  the  shallow  rapids  ;  and  to  this  vicinity,  too, 
the  yacht  clubs  of  the  Canadian  metropolitans  delight  to 
come. 

Two  miles  below  Sainte  Anne,  at  the  western  extremity 
of  the  Island  of  Montreal,  are  ruins  of  three  old  towers 
built  in  the  long-past  days  of  war.  The  river  now  ex- 
pands, and  takes  the  name  of  Lake  of  the  Two  Mountains, 
a  title  beautiful  and  unfamiliar  enough  to  justify  poor  Tho- 
reau's  carping  at  the  stolidity  which  renders  the  interna- 
tional line  most  perceptible  by  our  silly  names  compared 
with  Canadian  allusions  and  epithets.  The  hilly  charac- 
ter of  the  scenery  here,  clothed  to  the  water's  edge  with 
the  richest  verdure,  presents  more  the  appearance  of  an 
inland  lake  than  of  the  banks  of  a  river.    The  higher  of 


M 


III 


'■.   1. 


46 


THE  DOMINION  OF  CANADA. 


i     .  : 


II: 


tlio  "  Two  Mountains"  is  called  Calvary,  and  is  held  sacred 
by  the  Canadians  and  the  remnant  of  Indian  tribes,  (Iro- 
quois, Algonquins,  and  Nipissings,)  livincr  at  its  base. 
Near  the  lake,  on  the  north-east,  are  three  towns  cele- 
brated (i)articularly  Saint  Eustache)  in  the  rebellion  of 
1837,  which  we  meet  so  often  in  our  Canadian  travels. 
Saint  Eustache  was  taken  and  burned  by  the  loyalists. 
Saint  Benoit  and  Saint  Scholastique  profited  by  the  ex- 
ample, and  surrendered.  The  insurrection  terminated 
here  and  thus  for  Lower  Canada. 

Point  Fortune,  27  miles  from  Sainte  Anne,  is  the  diverg- 
ing point  of  demarkation  between  the  Provinces  of  Ontario 
and  Quebec,  the  Ottawa  River  being  from  here  upward 
the  natural  boundary.  Up  the  North  River,  here,  is  Saint 
Andrew's  village,  2  miles,  and  La  Chute,  9  miles. 

At  Carillon  ("  Chime  of  Bells,"  a  name  which  seems  to 
have  been  brought  from  Lake  Champlain,  it  being  the  old 
name  of  Fort  Ticonderoga)  a  canal  ends  which  begins  at 
Grenville,  12  miles  distant.  This  is  necessitated  by  the 
rapids,  the  Carillon,  the  Chute  a  Blondeau,  and  the  Long 
Sault  of  the  Ottawa.  At  this  point  the  first  change  oc- 
curs, tourists  being  obliged  to  leave  the  boat  for  a  train 
which  conveys  them  through  a  pretty  forest-country  to 
Grenville.  Opposite  this  village,  at  the  head  of  the  Long 
Sault  Rapids,  is  Hawkesburg,  the  first  of  the  great  lumber 
establishments  to  which  the  river  owes  its  development. 
These  mills  are  chiefly  supplied  from  the  rivers  Gatineau 
and  Rouge.  The  lumberers  are  a  race  of  men  peculiar  to 
the  Canadas,  Maine,  and  New-Brunswick.  Their  work 
begins  in  the  depth  of  winter,  in  the  backwoods,  where 
they  fell  the  huge  red  and  white  pines.  Then  these  logs 
are  drawn  out  of  the  snow  by  oxen  and  piled  on  or  near 
the  sides  of  the  frozen  rivers,  till  spring  gives  them  way  ; 


THE   DOMINION   OF   CANADA. 


47 


then  what  a  mass  of  lumber  fills  all  the  streams  in  May ! 
Here  commeuccs  the  most  dangerous  work  ;  the  logs, 
loosely  joined  together  in  huge,  uncouth  rafts,  are  set 
adrift,  and  the  lumberer  guides  them,  as  ho  best  may, 
with  his  uncouth  oars  and  poles,  down  the  rapids  and  cur- 
rents, swollen  and  fierce  with  the  loosened  snows.  As 
long  as  the  logs  hold  together,  all  is  well ;  but,  hurried 
and  tumbled  over  rapids,  as  they  are,  they  often  break  up, 
and  then,  rolling  in  fierce  confusion  the  one  over  the  other, 
and  smashing  down  from  rock  to  rock,  till  they  reach 
some  clear  opening  in  the  river,  they  keep  the  lives  of 
their  owners  in  continual  imminent  danger.  When  thus 
broken  up,  they  often  get  lodged  and  wedged  together  on 
the  brow  of  some  rapid,  stopping  miles  of  their  following 
companions.  Then  they  must  be  liberated — a  preemi- 
nently dangerous  task ;  for  when  once  the  logs  which  bar 
the  passage  are  half  cut  through,  the  might  of  the  pres- 
sure behind  breaks  them  like  straws,  and  some  ten  thou- 
sand trunks  of  trees  come  plunging  down  with  a  rush  and 
confusion  that  but  too  often  renders  all  the  coolness  and 
activity  of  those  who  are  trying  to  escape  the  avalanche 
of  no  avail. 

Pursuing  our  journey  up  the  river  from  Grenville  by 
steamboat  again,  we  find  ourselves  in  a  densely- wooded 
country,  in  many  places  as  primitive  as  when  the  Jesuit 
missionaries  first  sailed  through  it.  The  current  of  the 
river  is  gentle,  and  the  scenery  diversified  by  numerous 
islands,  the  foliage  of  whose  trees  seems  almost  to  touch 
the  water,  and  by  glimpses  of  infant  settlements  on  the 
skirts  of  the  forest  and  the  margin  of  the  stream. 

L'Original  is  a  small  town,  6  miles  above  Grenville,  on 
the  Ontario  side ;  9  miles  distant  are  the  Caledonia  or 
Plantagenet  Springs.    (A  separate  sketch  is  devoted  to 


III  flij 


ml 


% 


I"'       ! 


48 


THE    DOMINION   OP   CANADA. 


f 


them.)  Thurso  is  a  largo  luinher  villapfo  further  up,  and 
Buckingham,  5  miles  up  the  Riviere  du  Lievre,  boasts  two 
interesting  falls  near  by.  The  population  is  about  2000  ; 
hotel,  McKnight's.  The  Lower  Fall  is  about  70  feet  high, 
with  a  beautiful,  closely  hemmed-in  basin  of  some  extent. 
The  Upper  Fall  is  25  miles  distant  from  the  village,  ap- 
proachable, if  you  choose  to  endure  a  bad  road,  by  vehicle, 
or  better,  by  canoe.  It  is  40  feet  high,  and  of  a  conside- 
rable inclination,  like  Montniorenci.  Still  further  on, 
White  Fish  Lake  is  a  great  resort  for  fishermen,  and  high 
carnival  is  held  there  in  the  fall  season.  A  remarkable 
cave  called  the  Church,  strewn  with  fine  white  sand,  af- 
fords a  fine  (and  romantic)  camping-place.  There  is  great 
mineral  wealth  (not  gold,  miser!)  abon'     ere  also. 

The  largest  and  most  important  tr  ary  of  the  Otta- 
wa, the  River  Gatineau,  empties  into  it  1  mile  below 
the  national  capital.  It  is  350  miles  long,  and  has  much 
attractive  scenery.  The  Fanner's  Rapids  and  Falls  are  7 
miles  up,  and  for  the  next  3^  miles  are  four  or  five  rapids 
and  cascades  ;  then  the  Lake  Saint  Mary's,  Pemachunga, 
and  Thirty-one-miles-long  Lake,  are  fine  fishing  places  in 
the  wilderness,  40  miles  up. 

Ottawa  City  is  now  a  very  important  city  on  this  conti- 
nent, being  the  capital  of  the  United  Provinces,  (if  they  are 
united  ;  the  disaffection  in  the  Eastern  Provinces  still  fur- 
nishes newspaper  scandal,)  namely,  Ontario,  (formerly  Up- 
per Canada,  or  Canada  West,)  Quebec,  (formerly  Lower  Ca- 
nada,) New-Brunswick,  Prince  Edward's  Island,  and  Nova 
Scotia.  The  consolidation  of  these  Provinces,  under  the 
national  name  of  "  Dominion  of  Canada,"  was  concluded 
last  year,  and  Lord  Monck  inaugurated  as  Governor-Gene- 
ral on  the  first  "  Dominion  Day,"  July  1st,  1867. 

The  city  of  Ottawa  was  laid  out  by  the  royal  engineers 


t   i 


TICE   DOMINION"   OF   CANADA. 


49 


era. 


•e? 


)sin 


are 
fur- 
Up- 
rCa- 
lova 
tlie 
uded 
rene- 


leers 


under  Colonel  By's  command,  in  1830,  and  named  for  him 
Bytown.     It  is  120  miles  from  Montreal  and  54  from  Pres- 
cott.     There  are  three  sections  of  the  city  :    Lo\v(»r  Town, 
(east,)   Upper   Town,    (north-wcHt,)    and    Central    Town, 
(west ;)  but  all  on  the  south-west  side  of  the  Ottawa,  and 
consequently  in  the  Province  of   Ontario.      On  15arrack 
Hill,  in  many  respects  a  counterpart  of  the  ci':adel  of  Que- 
bec, are  situated  the  Parliamcmt  and  departn\ental  build- 
ings in  full  view  of  the  Chaudiere.    These  arc  all  in  the 
Italian-Gothic  style,  and  are  built  of  a  kind  of  stone  found 
in  the  vicinity.     There  is  connected  with  the  legislative 
halls  a  library  capable  of  containing  300,000  volumes. 
Among  the  other  principal  buildings  are    the  IJloman 
Catholic  church,  one  of  the  handsomest  in  the  Dominion  ; 
the  Queen's  Printing-House,  etc.     The  city  is  the  empori- 
um of  the  Canadian  staple,  lumber.    It  is  connected  with 
Lake  Ontario  by  the  Rideau  Canal  from  Kingston,  95 
miles. 

The  Chaudiere  ("  Caldron  ")  Falls,  the  second  in  import- 
ance exclusively  in  the  Dominion,  are  at  the  western  extre- 
mity of  the  city.  They  are  40  feet  high,  200  and  more  wide, 
and  the  sounding-line  has  not  found  bottom  at  300  feet. 
Immediately  below  the  Falls,  a  fine  suspension-bridge 
connects  the  two  Provinces  and  affords  a  fine  view  of  the 
chasm.  At  the  north-east  end  of  the  city  are  two  other 
falls,  over  which  the  waters  of  the  Rideau  River  pour  into 
the  Ottawa,  and  although  inferior  to  the  Chaudiere  in 
sublimity  and  grandeur,  they  are  not  without  many  at- 
tractions. Toward  Chelsea,  in  the  north-west,  is  a  range 
of  hills  which  the  visitor  will  notice,  one  especially,  con 
spicuous  for  its  superior  altitude  and  naked  summit.  This 
is  Bald  Mountain, 

The  great  timber-slides  afford  the  chief  sensation  to 


50 


THE   DOMINION   OP   CANADA. 


daring  tourists  at  Ottawa  City.  When  a  quantity  of  lum- 
Ler  is  brought  down  to  the  Falls,  a  special  contrivance, 
called  a  "  slide"  or  "  short,"  is  necessary  to  get  it  past  them. 
A  part  of  the  river  is  dammed  off  and  turned  into  a  broad, 
wide  channel  of  timber.  Down  this  most  rapid  of  all 
rapids  in  America  the  waters  of  the  river  rush  at  terrific 
speed.  The  head  of  the  slide  is  placed  some  300  yards 
above  the  Falls,  and  terminates  after  a  run  of  three  quarters 
of  a  mile,  in  the  still  waters  of  the  river  below.  As,  how- 
ever, a  raft  on  such  a  steep  incline,  and  hurried  along  by 
such  a  mass  of  water,  would  attain  a  speed  whicl  l  would 
destroy  itself  and  all  upon  it,  the  fall  of  the  shoot  is 
broken  afc  intervals  by  straight  runs,  along  which  it  glides 
at  comparatively  reduced  speed  until  the  force  of  the  next 
pitch  again  accelerates  it.  Some  of  these  runs  terminate 
with  a  perpendicular  drop  of  some  4  or  5  feet,  over  which 
the  raft  goes  headlong,  and  wallows  in  the  boiling  water 
beneath,  till  the  current  again  gets  the  mastery.  More 
than  20,000,000  cubic  feet  of  timber  come  down  these 
shoots  each  year.  The  rafts  are  generally  made  of  from 
15  to  20  trees,  with  two  transverse  ones  to  secure  them  at 
each  end,  and  a  kind  of  raised  bridge  for  the  lumberers  to 
stand  upon,  who  without  sitch  aid  would  be  washed  off  it. 
To  go  down  the  Rapids  of  the  Saint  Lawrence  is  compara- 
tively nothing ;  but  to  go  down  the  rapids  of  a  timber 
shoot,  to  keep  pace  with  the  flying  Avaters,  and  to  see 
them  hissing  and  rushiitg  up  over  the  raft  beneath  your 
feet — this  is  the  most  exhilarating  adventure  in  all  the  re- 
pertoire of  American  travel.  We  recommend  all  travelers, 
desirous  of  novelty,  by  all  means  to  make  one  of  these 
trips.  It  may  be  easily  done  by  making  api)lication  to  any 
of  the  large  lumbering  establishments,  with  a  small  finan- 
ial  arrangement  with  the  taoyageurs  your  companions. 


THE  DOMINION   OF   CANADA. 


51 


Above  Ottawa,  the  traveler  may  proceed  by  carriage  or 
by  stage,  9  miles,  to  the  village  of  Aylmer,  and  thejace  by 
steamer  to  the  Chats  Falls ;  thence  by  railway  2  miles; 
then  again  by  steamer  20  miles,  to  the  Portage  du  Fort ; 
now,  wagons  for  a  while,  and  then  again  a  steamer  to 
Pembroke,  70  miles  from  Ottawa,  and  yet  another  thence 
40  miles,  to  Deux  Joachims.  Beyond  this,  the  canoe  will 
be  the  tourist's  only  resource.  Before  reaching  Aylmer, 
we  have  the  Little  Chaudiere  Fall,  13  feet,  tlu;  Ronioux 
Rapid,  2  miles  above,  and  the  De  Cheine  Rapides  <)[)posite 
the  village  of  Britannia,  4^  miles  further.  Aylmer  itself 
is  on  the  Lac  de  Cheine,  an  expansion  of  the  river,  26 
miles  long,  navigable  for  the  largest  vessels.  The  Chats 
Portage  (or  Chats  Falls)  are  a  series  of  cascades  about  20 
feet  high,  3  miles  long,  surrounded  by  scenery  much  like 
that  at  the  Thousand  Isles.  Just  above  these  rapids  is  the 
magnificent  Lac  des  Chats,  on  the  river,  20  miles  long  and 
from  1  to  3  wide.  If  the  tourist  be  interested  in  royalty, 
he  may  see  an  oak  at  Arnprior  here,  (the  northern  termi- 
nus of  the  Prescott  and  Ottawa  Railway,  where  the 
River  Madawaska  comes  down,)  which  the  Prince  of  Wales 
planted  on  his  Ottawa  trip  in  1859.  The  scenery  about 
Portage  du  Fort  Rapids,  beyond,  is  charming  in  every 
respect;  one  feature  not  hitherto  met  with,  is  the  white 
marble  banks  of  the  Ottawa,  extending  for  some  distance. 
Deux  Joachims,  110  miles  above  Ottawa  City,  is  at  the  ex- 
treme limit  of  steamboat  navigation  at  pnisent.  It  is, 
however,  but  50  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Lake  Mata- 
wan,  the  connecting  stream  between  the  Ottawa  River  and 
Lake  Nipissing,  through  which  the  proposed  Ottawa  and 
Lake  Huron  navigation  is  expected  to  run.  If  that  scheme 
shall  ever  come  to  completion,  the  tourist  may  include 
Superior  City,  Ottawa  City,  and  Quebec,  on  one  tour. 


52 


THE  DOMINION   OF    CANADA. 


The  route  between  Pembroke  and  Deux  Joacliims,  40 
miles,  passes  througli  the  Upper  and  Lower  Allumette 
Lakes,  with  all  their  soft  and  romantic  beauties,  and 
through  the  stern  and  gloomy  grandeur  of  the  Deep 
River,  whose  mountains,  600  feet  in  height,  rise  from  the 
water's  edge,  while  their  bases  are  as  far  beneath  its 
surface.  Beyond  Deux  Joachims  is  the  utter  wilderness, 
which  we  shall  not  seek  to  penetrate.  There  are  lakes, 
as  ever,  fishing,  and,  doubtless,  some  ver}''  unpleasant 
hunting,  in  this  neglected  country ;  but  until  *'  the  hardy 
sons  of  the  forest"  have  been  succeeded  by  the  ladies  and 
gentlemen  of  civilized  climates  and  regions,  we  must  leave 
unsolved  the  ]3roblem  of  the  source  of  the  Ottawa. 

QUEBEC. 

"  Quebec  is  the  most  notable  and  curious  city  in  Ameri- 
ca," writes  a  recent  London  ct^rrespondent ;  and  if  history 
does  not  entirely  justify  the  first  part  of  the  assertion,  a 
visit  most  abundantly  pr-oves  the  latter.  Curious  it  cer- 
tainly is,  and  to  strangers  who  find  their  way  into  her 
Majesty's  new  Dominion  during  the  summer  months, 
this  is  doubtless  its  chief  attraotion.  "  Quaint,"  "  queer," 
yet  never  beautiful,  a  day  suffices  to  do  Quebec ;  and  curi- 
osity and  the  tourist,  both  satisfied,  generally  depart  to- 
gether. 

The  first  view  of  the  city  is  striking.  That  tremendous 
precipice,  the  solid  wall,  and  its  surmounting  line  of  grim 
fifty-six  pounders,  have  ever  been  remarkable,  and  the  odd 
and  stolid  buildings  of  a  thousand  different  shapes  thickly 
scattered  round  the  base,  and  scaling  and  overgrowing  the 
high,  rocky  promontory,  present  from  the  river  a  scene  of 
novelty  bordering  on  the  grotesque.  It  reaches  under, 
up  the  side,  and  all  over  the  hill,  like  moss  on  a  decaying 


THE  DOMINION   OF   CANADA. 


•63 


stump ;  and  when  the  sun  shines,  the  whole  flashes  and 
glitters  like  some  fabled  city  not  paved,  but  roofed  with 
silver  and  gold.  The  fact  is,  in  the  early  days,  tin  or  met- 
al being  cheaper  or  more  convenient  than  slate,  nearly  all 
the  roofs  were  covered  with  it,  and  for  some  reason  it  does 
not  seem  to  tarnish  or  corrode  in  that  climate. 

The  Streets. — On  entering  the  city  itself,  the  disap- 
pointment of  the  traveler  commences.  The  first  thing  on 
landing  is,  of  course,  to  scale  the  heights,  as  the  lower  town 
is  now  given  up  to  heavy  business  and  commercial  ware- 
houses. It  is  like  the  ascent  of  Mount  Washington — a 
tortuous,  twisted  path,  yet  through  the  very  he?  rt  of  the 
city  nevertheless.  In  many  places  the  stones  of  the  pre- 
cipice have  been  removed  to  make  way  for  houses  ;  queer 
old  places  they  are — ill  built,  and  forming  steep,  narrow, 
and  badly  paved  streets.  A  difficult  causeway  winds  under 
a  monstrous  arch  into  the  upper  portion  of  the  city. 
Once  inside  the  walls,  the  queerness  increases.  Boston  has 
been  described  to  be  as  crooked  as  ten  acres  of  rams'  horns ; 
but  if  DooBticks  should  dip  his  pen  into  tbe  streets  of 
Quebec,  the  crookedest  simile  would  prove  a  failure. 
There  is  no  other  city  on  this  continent  like  it.  Lanes, 
alleys,  gulfs,  and  ditches,  isosceles  triangles,  and  parallello- 
pipedons,  a  lunatic  dream  of  Utopia,  is  a  rational  plan  in 
comparison.  Certainly,  poor  old  Jacques  Cartier  had  no 
vision  of  Quebec  before  his  eyes  when  his  prow  turned  up 
the  Saint  Lawrence,  or  he  would  have  set  sail  for  Terra 
del  Fuego  sooner  than  enter. 

Places  of  Interest. — Little  slips  of  paper  containing 
a  formidable  list  of  these  are  scattered  about  the  hotels. 
Falls,  monuments,  buildings,  churches,  and  drives,  all  of 
undoubted  interest — to  the  citizens  themselves  ;  but  rather 
more,  by  seven  eighths,  than  the  general  traveler  will  care 


if 


i:  '■ 


if 

ii':.  '  i 


1;! 

\i'     ' 

i:          * 

'f 

I' 


54 


THE  DOMIlSriON   OP   CANADA. 


to  visit.  The  Falls  of  Montmorenci,  a  drive  of  9  miles,  tlie 
Citadel  and  Wolfe's  Monument,  are  the  leading  attractions. 
It  is  not  difficult  to  find  these — coach  and  hack-drivers, 
visible  in  overpowering  numbers,  await  an  opportunity  to 
pounce  upon  the  unwary  who  may  step  out  of  doors,  and 
forty  whips  are  leveled  at  his  breast  if  he  shows  the  slight- 
est indication  of  timidity.  The  four  hundred  coaches 
about  the  city,  answering  in  efiect  to  the  cabs  of  Paris,  are 
very  convenient  for  the  sight-seer  of  moderate  means,  snug 
and  comfortable,  and  the  regular  charge  is  only  fifty  cents 
in  gold  per  hour ;  the  drivers  understand  the  theory  of 
making  hay  by  sunshine,  however,  and  very  readily  ask  a 
dollar  and  upward  of  strangers,  particularly  if  they  ap- 
pear to  hail  from  the  United  States. 

Wolfe's  Monument  is  just  back  of  the  town,  upon  tho 
illustrious  Plains  of  Abraham.  We  go  out  from  the  walls, 
pass  the  toll-gate,  turn  off  the  road  a  short  distance  past 
one  or  two  wretched  huts,  and  in  a  rolling  meadow  just 
before  us  stands  the  clearly  chiseled  column — 

here  died 

Wolfe, 
victorious ! 

The  Citadel  is  well  worthy  a  visit.  Situated  upon  the 
highest  point  of  the  promontory,  and  holding  in  range  the 
entire  town  and  a  wide  sweep  of  the  river  both  above  and 
below,  it  is  alike  commanding  and  unapproachable.  It  is 
surrounded  on  every  side  by  difficult  glissades,  and  be- 
tween its  double  walls  the  fearful  ditch,  everv  foot  of  which 
is  exposed  to  a  raking  fire  from  within — is  large  enough 
and  terrible  enough  to  be  the  veritable  last  ditch  indeed — 
and  the  impregnable  chain-gates,  bristling  port-holes,  un- 
der-ground passages,  connecting  towers,  and  the  immense 


The  dominion  of  canada. 


65 


IS 


wall  stretching  eacli  way  like  two  gigantic  arms  clasping 
the  city  in  its  embrace,  are  enough  fairly  to  confound  a  deni- 
zen of  Brother  Jonathan's  peaceful  corporations ;  and  one 
can  very  readily  believe  the  gentlemanly  sergeant  who  in- 
forms us  that  Quebec  can  only  be  taken  by  starvation — and 
that  the  fortress  holds  provision  sufficient  for  seven  years. 

The  Falls  of  Montmorenci  are  ever  the  same  combina- 
tion of  majesty  and  beauty — "  admission  twenty-five  cents," 
as  a  small  board  tells  us  at  the  entrance  to  a  field  near  by, 
from  which  the  only  good  view  can  be  obtained.  The  old 
piers  still  stand  above,  and  the  guide  points  out  the  very 
place  where  stood  the  boy,  the  woman,  and  the  cart,  when 
the  frail  bridge  gave  way  and  plunged  them  into  the 
whirling  abyss. 

The  French  Cathedral  near  the  market  is  quite  a  promi- 
nent object — a  high  and  mighty  pile — whose  lofty  galle- 
ries are  like  attics,  affording  from  the  front  a  bird's-eye 
view  of  the  interior,  and  back  under  the  rafters  both  room 
and  distance  from  the  voices  of  the  worshipers  for  medi- 
tation and  quiet. 

About  two  thirds  of  the  residents  of  Quebec  are  descen- 
dants of  the  old  French  occupanlis,  and  the  element  is  plain- 
ly observable  in  the  churches,  newspapers,  houses,  and  in 
the  streets ;  the  latter  are  all  named  in  French  as  well  as 
in  English,  and  N*appliquez  point  d'affiches!  adorns  the 
fence  just  above  the  sententious  "  Stick  no  bills  I"  Al- 
though so  extensive,  the  French  portion  is  not  the  ruling 
element,  being  composed  mostly  of  the  lower  class,  and  in 
fact,  who  know  much  less  of  France  beyond  the  language 
than  the  Yankee  school-boy.  They  have  little  of  the  viva- 
city and  volubility  of  their  cousins  over  the  water,  and 
seem  to  have  lost  that  suaviter  in  modo,  without  which  it 
is  hardly  possible  to  conceive  a  genuine  Frenchman.    The 


W    H 


'''III 
w 


'," 


56 


THE   DOMINION   OF   CANADA. 


i%   '• 


i 


Terrace — a  wide  platform  overlooking  the  river — is  a  fa- 
vorite promenade  for  tliera  on  Sunday  afternoons. 

Not  far  from  the  Terrace,  and  near  the  centre,  an  odd 
sort  of  cottage  is  pointed  out  as  the  oldest  building  in  the 
city — the  one  where  Montcalm  held  his  first  councils  of 
war.  It  is  now  a  "barbershop,  and  you  may  shave  for  a 
fip  and  pick  up  any  amount  of  historical  on  dits  gratis. 
Just  opposite  stands  the  Saint  Louis  Hotel,  large  and  flat, 
very  like  the  National  in  Washington,  the  only  one  of  note, 
and  this  only  open  during  the  warm  season.  The  guests 
of  the  Saint  Louis  are  perhaps  the  most  transient  of  any  in 
the  country.  Curiosity  brings  large  numbers  to  Quebec 
during  the  summer  months,  and  scores  of  trunks  are 
brought  up  in  the  morning  from  the  Montreal  boat,  and 
carefully  conveyed  to  the  different  rooms,  as  though  the 
owner  intended  taking  permanent  quarters ;  but  somehow 
they  all  manage  to  come  down  in  time  for  the  evening 
train,  and  the  next  day  tells  the  same  story.  The  amount 
of  travel  in  Canada  from  the  States  is  increasing  very 
rapidly. 

The  daily  steamboats  between  Quebec  and  Montreal  are 
really  fine,  and  compare  favorably  with  some  of  our  North 
River  crafts ;  they  are  manned  mostly  by  Frenchmen  who 
never  saw  France,  and  have  French  cooks,  but  not  French 
cooking.  The  time  between  the  two  cities  is  about  twelve 
hours. 


THE  TOUR  IN  THE  EASTERN  PROVINCES. 

Having  given  so  great  a  space  to  the  popular  and  invit- 
ing tour  of  the  Saint  Lawrence,  it  would  be  unjust  to  the 
tourist  should  we  leave  unmentioned  the  great  claims  of 
these  more  eastern  Provinces — Nova  Scotia,  New-Bruns- 
wick, and  Prince  Edward's  Island — which  are  now  legally 


II  iiipi  itmrnt 


THE  DOMINION   OF   CANADA. 


57 


termed  "  The  Dominion  of  Canada,"  under  the  governor- 
generalship  of  Lord  Monck,  at  Ottawa,  the  federal  capital. 

The  attentive  observer  of  the  advance  of  American  civil- 
ization is  well  aware  that,  with  the  completion  of  railways 
and  telegraph  lines  the  opening  of  new  water  communica- 
tions has  made  easy  of  access  a  new  field  for  the  summer 
travel — a  field  full  of  interest,  romance,  and  pleasure — in 
the  land  of  the  blue  noses,  Acadia,  mentioned  by  Longfel- 
low, is  his  poem  Evangeline,  a  tale  of  Acadia,  (Nova  Sco- 
tia.) 

Wolfville,  the  Grand  Pre  Basin  of  Mines,  the  head  waters 
of  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  where  the  tide  rises  more  than  50 
feet,  is  a  place  to  which  a  visit  the  coming  season  will  pay 
the  tourist,  will  invigorate  and  recuperate  the  invalid. 

The  scenery,  also,  on  the  river  Saint  John  is  equal  to 
any  in  the  world.  There  is  the  route  from  Moncton,  on 
the  European  and  North-American  Railway,  across  the 
Westchester  Mountain  via  Dorchester,  Amherst,  West- 
chester, the  Acadia  Iron- Works,  through  Londonderry  to 
Truro,  Nova  Scotia,  en  route  by  rail  to  Halifax.  On  this 
route  the  view  to  be  seen  at  Sackville  and  Amherst,  N.  S., 
of  the  reclaimed  lands  from  the  Bay  of  Fundy  waters,  and 
the  view  from  Westchester  Mountain,  (at  Purdy's,)  of  the 
Gulf  of  Saint  Lawrence  and  Prince  Edward's  Island,  em- 
bracing a  scope  of  60  miles  of  landscape,  with  the  Cascade 
Waterfall  on  the  mountain  at  the  Acadia  Iron- Works,  are 
worth  a  trip  of  thousands  of  miles.  The  following  is  a  list 
of  the  routes  for  this  tour  the  coming  summer : 

To  reach  Nova  Scotia,  (where  treasure  upon  treasure  lies 
-hidden,  whose  gold-fields  will  soon  be  developed  and  prove 
as  rich  as  California,)  there  is  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway 
to  Quebec,  from  Portland,  Maine.  From  Quebec  the  Gulf 
Line  will  run  A  No.  1  first-class  ocean-going  steamships 


I  !i  nnfl 


iir 


Ii 


58 


THE   DOMINION    OF   CANADA. 


ma  the  waters  of  the  River  and  Gulf  of  Saint  Lawrence  to 
Shediac,  Charlottetown,  and  Pictou.  At  Shediac  connect 
(for  the  city  of  Saint  John,  N.  B.)  with  the  European  and 
North- American  Railway.  Moncton  is  on  this  road  19 
miles  from  Shediac.  At  Moncton,  the  Messrs.  King  are 
prepared  to  entertain  you  in  style,  and  by  them  you  will 
be  transferred  on  over  the  finest  road  in  this  country  via 
the  Westchester  Mountain  route.  At  Pictou,  connection 
is  made  with  the  Nova  Scotia  Railway,  113  miles  across 
Nova  Scotia,  to  Halifax.  From  Halifax  by  railway  to 
Windsor,  N.  S.,  45  miles.  At  Windsor  there  is  a  first- 
class  hotel,  whose  proprietor  will  transport  you  in  splendid 
coaches  to  Wolfville,  Grand  Pre,  12  miles. 

From  Boston  or  Portland,  Saint  John,  the  Saint  John 
River,  and  the  Bay  of  Fundy  are  to  be  reached  by  the 
splendid  steamers  of  the  International  Line,  three  times  a 
week,  ma  Eastport,  Maine,  where  the  tourist  can  make 
connection  with  a  steamer  up  the  Saint  Croix  River  for 
Saint  Andrew,  N.  B.,  at  which  place  take  railv/ay  for  Rich- 
mond and  Houlton,  connecting  with  the  steamers  on  the 
upper  Saint  John.  Descending  the  river,  stop  off  at  Fredc- 
rickton,  and  then  proceed  to  Saint  John.  This  route  avoids 
the  doubling  up  and  down  the  river. 

At  Saint  John,  New-Brunswick,  (hotel,  the  Stubbs 
House,)  you  have  the  European  and  North- American  Rail- 
way, (the  best  laid  road  in  this  country,)  for  Moncton  and 
Shediac  as  before  stated ;  or  there  is  the  Bay  of  Fundy  route 
per  A  No.  1  steamer  Empress  (making  connection  with 
the  steamers  from  Portland)  for  Windsor,  and,  as  we  have 
started  for  the  Grand  Pre,  for  Wolfville  and  Basin  Mines  ; 
or  for  Halifax,  with  its  splendid  walks  and  drives,  its  fresh 
water,  and  its  North  Arm,  with  its  beautiful  little  Dart- 
mouth on  the  opposite  shore ;  with  the  finest  harbor  in  the 


..  ,i|i<nuiiMi^iwiiii^p 


THE  DOMINION   OP   CANADA. 


59 


world,  one  capable  of  holding  all  the  fleets  of  the  combin- 
ed navies  of  the  world,  Bedford  Basin,  perfectly  land- 
locked— a  drive  13  miles  around,  which  will  amply  re- 
pay the  tourist.  Halifax  is  full  of  interest,  a  cheap  place 
to  live  in,  and  we  can  conscientiously  recommend  to  the 
tourist  the  Halifax  Hotel,  now  opened  in  style  and  rei^lete 
with  comfort. 

We  think  this  sketch  of  a  new  summer  route  describes 
one  that  our  readers  will  be  delighted  with.  Just  think 
of  it  after  visiting  the  White  Mountains  and  Quebec,  then 
for  a  sail  down  the  Saint  Lawrence,  stopping  off  at  Char- 
lottetown.  Prince  Edward's  Island,  thence  across,  some  four 
hours,  to  Shediac,  and  thence  to  Moncton,  where,  if  you  de- 
sire it,  the  hotel  proprietor,  Mr.  King,  will  send  you  across 
the  Cobequid  Mounteins,  as  before  stated,  to  rusticate  a 
few  days  with  mine  hosts  of  the  Weldon  Hotel,  Dorchester, 
and  the  Cumberland  House  at  Amherst. 


HALIFAX,   NOVA  SCOTIA. 

Nova  Scotia,  a  country  of  13,000,000  acres,  and  contain- 
ing a  population  of  370,000  persons,  looks  upon  Halifax — 
the  great  capital,  metropolis,  head  and  seat  of  government, 
and  residence  of  His  Excellency,  Lieutenant-General  Sir 
William  Fenwick  Williams,  of  Kars,  Baronet,  Knight 
Commander  of  the  Most  Honorable  Order  of  the  Bath,Grand 
Officer  Legion  d'Honneur,  First  Class  of  the  Turkish  Or- 
der of  Mediji,  Lieutenant-Governor  and  Commander-in- 
Chief  in  and  over  the  Province  of  Nova  Scotia  and  its  de- 
pendencies— as  a  place  of  immense  importance.  There  are 
facts  to  support  this  belief.  It  has  the  best  harbor  in 
America,  a  tremendous  old  crowning  citadel  garrisoned 
with  4000  of  Her  Majesty's  red-coats,  and  big  guns  enough 
to  blow  the  whole  town  and  shipping  up ;  and  it  has  been 


60 


i-HB  DOMmrON   OP  CAKADA. 


frequently  remarked  that,  with  the  addition  of  a  few 
hundred  live  Yankees,  it  would  soon  have  a  first-class  hotel, 
half  a  dozen  railway  depots,  twenty  cotton  factories,  and  an 
unlimited  competition  in  sewing-machines  and  piano-fortes. 

The  following  bird's  eye  view  by  a  live  Yankee  gives  a 
capital  idea  of  Halifax  : 

"  Africa,  Aug.  5th,  18 — ;  4  to  8  r.M.  at  Halifax  ;  fine  har- 
bor ;  rugged  coast ;  location  high ;  climate  cold ;  fogs. 
Streets  narrow.  Muddy.  Buildings — wood,  low,  yellow. 
Parks,  6  ;  hotels,  21 ;  newspapers,  10  ;  clubs,  3  ;  currency, 
mixed  $  £ ;  people  slow  ;  society  ditto ;  women  tall.  Liv- 
ing— fish,  bacon.     The  Lakes — Downs — The  Citadel." 

The  leaf  was  countersigned  with  the  word  dead,  a  very 
forcible  expression  for  quiet  and  repose,  said  to  be  appro- 
priate in  the  connection,  though  confederation  is  expected 
to  work  miracles. 

The  Landing — Custom-House. — The  arrival  of  a  Cu- 
nard  steamer  is  an  event  in  the  city,  and  looked  forward  to 
with  great  interest.  She  brings  passengers,  merchandise, 
express,  mails,  and  two  weeks  of  news,  and  dailies  from 
"  the  States."  We  may  expect  quite  a  gathering  of  impa- 
tient citizens  at  the  landing,  dozens  of  misses  on  hand  to 
see  who's  come ;  scores  of  hackmen,  baggage  and  express 
wagons,  carmen,  and  gamins  in  a  state  of  internal  fomenta- 
tion after  the  papers,  all  of  which  can  be  seen  any  day  at 
almost  all  of  our  inland  towns,  where  the  steamboat  and 
train  are  daily  institutions.  Imagine  the  confusion  in 
prospect  when  the  institution  is  only  fortnightly  ! 

There  is,  however,  no  occasion  for  alarm ;  just  three 
men — and  no  more — appear  peacefully  smoking  as  we  ap- 
proach the  dock ;  and  after  sundry  delays,  receiving  our 
cable,  the  ship  is  made  fast,  a  plank  thrown,  and  the  pas- 
sengers walk  down  the  long,  dreary  pier  into  the  street  in 


THE   DOMINION   OF   CANADA. 


CI 


search  of  conveyances.  Not  a  very  entliusiastic  reception, 
certainly. 

A  solitary  bup^gy  finally  appears,  which  takes  the  mail. 
The  papers — two  weeks  of  dailies,  mind  you,  and  the  illus- 
trated weeklies— are  handed  into  a  shed  by  the  ship's  crew. 
Where  they  lie  for  an  hour  or  more  without  molestation. 
The  trunks  are  also  trundled  into  a  shed  for  examination. 
So  much  for  the  landing. 

It  is  something  singular  with  what  a  degree  of  suspicion 
Her  Majesty's  Lower  Provincials  regard  their  neighbors 
from  the  "  States."  Wooden  nutmegs  and  'cuteness  are 
looked  upon  by  them  as  our  regular  stock  in  trade  ;  and 
the  story  of  the  ship  laden  with  wooden  hams  which  once 
landed  in  this  port  is  as  green  in  their  memory  as  though 
of  yesterday's  occurrence. 

You  get  an  inkling  of  this  feeling  in  the  baggage-search- 
ing. Several  former  residents  of  the  Province,  returning 
after  an  absence,  were  suffered  to  pass  their  trunks  without 
even  opening,  while  that  of  ourself  was  most  remorselessly 
ransacked,  possibly  with  the  intent  of  making  up  by 
thoroughness  what  was  lacking  in  rapidity.  Even  his 
Sunday  coat  and  best  boots  received  a  crushing  scrutiny, 
to  ascertain  positively  that  cargoes  of  tobacco,  beeswax,  and 
chipped  logwood  were  not  concealed  about  them.  Satis- 
fied at  last,  a  carriage  was  obtained  through  the  agency  of 
a  small  boy,  and  he  was  passed. 

Coming  down  from  the  wharf,  a  good  opportunity  is  of- 
fered of  viewing  the  buildings,  of  the  larger  portion  of 
which  our  hotel  is  a  fair  specimen — a  heavy  wood,  low, 
shingled  on  the  sides  as  well  as  the  top,  and  painted  that 
color  ! — how  shall  wo  describe  it  ?  Imagine  a  painter,  in 
a  fit  of  color-ic  insanity,  combining  a  mixture  of  equal  pro- 
portions of  the  semi-neutrals,  yellow  ochre  and  coal-dust, 


.  K , 


62 


THE  DOMINION   OF   CANADA. 


and  conceive  the  effect.  Nearly  the  whole  city  wears  this 
odd  hue — "  mouse  "  tint  some  call  it — "  subdued  mouse" 
undoubtedly,  though  we  think  enraged  rat  would  be  quite 
as  appropriate. 

Much  of  the  business  portion  of  the  city  is  built  of  brick 
and  stone,  as  are  the  public  buildings,  some  of  which  are 
fine;  but  the  houses,  to  a  unit,  are  Nova  Scotia  oak  and 
spruce — low,  "'icavy,  very  many  shingled  all  over,  and  all 
on  the  "  mouse,"  giving  the  town  certainly  a  unique  ap- 
pearance. 

The  Streets  are  narrow.  They  are  long  in  one  direc- 
tion like  those  of  N'ew-York.  They  are  almost  as  dirty. 
They  are  not  as  crowded.  In  walking  fifty  rods  on  Gran- 
ville strtiet,  the  leading  thoroughfare,  at  5  p.m.,  July  4th,  it 
being  wet  and  rainy,  we  met  and  passed  two  persons,  n^ 
single  vehicle  bemg  visible  in  the  distance.  Had  the 
weathor  been  pleasant,  the  number  might  have  been  dou- 
bled or  triplfcu.  Coming  from  New- York  or  Boston,  it 
seems  like  a  p(^rpet*i.al  Sabbath.  A  crowd  is  a  thing  un- 
mentioned  in  the  papers ;  no  omnibuses  rattle  over,  the 
pavements,  and,  O  happy  people !  hand-organs  are  un- 
known. A  horse-railroad  extends  through  on  a  parallel 
with  the  coast,  and  now  and  then  a  car  is  seen  containing 
one  or  two  passengers ;  fare,  seven  cents  in  gold. 

Business  is  said  to  partake  of  the  general  stagnation  of 
the  States.  In  a  shopping  excur*  ion,  po&yibly  one  might 
be  reasonably  excused  from  fancying  it  had  taken  the 
whole  of  i;.,  Old-fashioned  gold  and  silver  are  the  general 
currency — British  sovereigns,  half-crowns,  and  shillings— 
though  counted  by  dollars,  a  sovereign  representing  five. 

N.  B. — In  buying  sovereigns  in  Wall  street  to  take 
abroad,  they  are  valued  at  $5.02  American  gold;  other- 
wise, at  $4.85,  as  usual. 


(( 


THE  DOMINION   OF   CANADA. 


68 


ive. 
take 
kher- 


Nearly  all  morchandiso  comes  direct  from  England.  Dry- 
goods  arc  cheap.  Alcohol  is  only  thirty-five  cents  a  gal- 
lon. Paper  comes  from  Belgium.  Books,  about  equally 
from  London  and  the  United  States.  Ices,  chocolate,  cara- 
mel, and  nougat  are  out  of  mdrket,  as  Maillard  and  Bigot 
do  not  advertise  in  the  Halifax  Herald.  TJiat  the  living  is 
high,  however,  we  give  one  (to-day's)  dinner-bill  verbatifn, 
same  beuig  written  on  a  half-sheet  of  commercial  note  : 

"  Halifax  Hotel.— Bill  of  Fare :  Soup.  Frsir.—Salmon, 
Cod,  Herring,  Olivers.  Potatoes.  RoAST. — Beef,  Pork. 
Entrees. — Eggs,  Bacon,  and  Greens.  Potatoes.  Pas- 
TllY.~P  adding." 

We  have  never  tasted  as  fine  fish  or  better  bacon.  We 
have  strawberries,  too,  at  tea,  so  small  you  might  put  a 
hundred  in  your  mouth  and  whistle  almost  any  air  with 
tolerable  accuracy,  but  of  delicious  flavor. 

The  water,  coming  from  inland  lakes,  is  said  to  be  very 
pure  and  soft.  From  our  own  experience  we  should  say  it 
held  in  solution  definite  proportions  of  assafa3tida  and  sal 
epsom.  Its  effect  as  a  beverage  is  not  happy.  Even  the 
"  Haligonians"  (regular  appellation  of  citizens)  themselves 
do  not  favor  it.  The  best  of  English  ale  and  liquors  are 
plenty  and  cheap. 

The  People. — Standing  a  sort  of  connecting  link  be- 
tween Great  Britain  and  the  United  States,  it  would  be  sup- 
posed natural  that  the  inhabitants  should  partake,  to  a  cer- 
tain extent,  of  the  characteristics  of  each  nation ;  but  the 
actual  condition  exhibits  a  great  deal  of  Her  Majesty  and 
very  little  of  Uncle  Sam. 

There  is  a  sturdy  steadiness  about  the  people  very  un- 
like the  pert  briskness  and  wide-awake  activity  of  Uncle 
Sam's  boys. 

They  are  slow  to  anger,  or  to  any  thing  else ;  largely  cau- 


I  lis 


.  \i 


r:iy 


64 


THE  DOMINION   OF   CANADA. 


tious,  distrustful  of  strarif^ers,  and  not  particularly  given  to 
rapid  or  brilliart  conversation. 

It  takes  time,  and  considerable  of  it,  to  inculcate  an 
idea  with  the  masses  ;  and  when  once  engrafted,  it  never 
changes  or  goes  out. 

They  don't  catch  at  novelties  with  avidity.  A  genuine 
invention,  we  believe,  was  never  known  as  originating  in  the 
Province,  and  mowing-machines  and  soothing-syrup  are 
hardly  appreciated. 

The  Sights. — "  The  Lakes,"  a  most  romantic  little  chain 
of  trout-ponds,  some  distance  up  country ;  "  The  Gold 
Mines,"  "  Downs,"  a  noun  in  the  possessive,  referring  to 
the  estate  of  Mr.  A.  Downs,  naturalist,  ornithologist,  and 
"  genius,"  whose  grounds  present  a  most  lively  diversity  of 
birds,  beasts,  and  reptiles,  in  a  state  of  natural  preservation. 
He  has  caged  apes,  boxed  otters,  penned  gazelles,  house 
parrots,  penned  bears,  stuffed  alligators,  and  the  American 
eagle,  alive  and  screaming,  covered  with  a  high  netting  to 
prevent  a  return  to  "  home,  sweet  home" — a  perfect  Bar- 
num's  out  of  doors,  and  the  resort  of  tl  .3  Haligonian  public 
and  the  world  generally,  who  are  politely  requested  "  not 
to  tease  the  bear." 

"  The  Citadel,"  a  roomy  fortress  occupying  the  top  of  a 
vast  hill,  whose  base  forms  the  inner  circle  of  a  crescent, 
which  the  city  in  shapa  very  nearly  resembles,  the  outer 
circle  of  the  crescent  being  represented  by  the  shore  of  the 
beautiful  harbor. 

One  thousand  of  the  British  regular  infantry  are  quar- 
tered there  at  present.  Three  regiments  are  also  in  bar- 
racks at  the  upper  end  of  the  to\vn. 

Through  the  kindness  of  Hon.  Mr.  Jackson,  United 
States  Consul,  we  were  permitted  to  view  the  interior.  No 
foreigners  are  allowed  to  take  notes. 


THE   DOMINION   OF   CANADA. 


C5 


That  Halifax  is  attracting  mucli  more  attention  than  for- 
merly, is  seen  by  the  not  uafrequent  arrival  of  New-York- 
ers, eitlier  for  curiosity  or  pleasure. 

SAINT  JOHN'S,  NEW-BRUNSWICK. 

I  Drive  down  to  Commercial  Wharf  in  Boston  very  early 

some  of  these  hot  July  mornings  ;  take  one  of  the  Interna- 
tional Company's  first-class  steamers  and  a  breezy  sea  voy- 
age along  tlie  bleak  coast  of  Maine.  Portland,  with  her 
poor,  scarred  visage  invites  your  attention  ;  her  fair  formed 
harbor,  rounded  by  graceful,  grassy  islands,  cool  and  tran- 
quil, ib  a  refreshing  prospect.  Further  on,  ponderous  At- 
lantic on  the  right,  ai^d  at  the  left  a  coast  sublime  in  its 
bleakness  and  barren  rocky  chaos.  Eastport,  the  full  re- 
alization of  "  away  down  east,"  terminus  of  the  prohibitory 
law  and  brown  bread.  St.  John's,  commencement  of  the 
new  Dominion,  and  the  only  city  in  Xew-Brunswick.  \. 
little  more  alive  than  old-fashioned,  sea-beaten  Halifax,  a 
little  less  a  modern  city  than  any  other  west  of  the  Bay  of 
Fundy — a  lumb*^ring  Saint  John  in  both  the  literal  and 
figurative.  Walk  up  the  hill  from  the  landing  and  take  a 
look  about.  The  "  thoroughly  Hinglish  hideas  "  impress  a 
stranger  at  once.  Prince  William,  King,  Queen,  Duke,  St. 
George  and  Princes  streets  are  the  royal  avenues  you  pass. 
"  London  House,"  "Victoria  Store,"  etc.,  attract  the  eye. 

The  city,  built  in  the  acute  angle  formed  by  the  river 
and  the  bay,  lies  upon  a  hill  slope,  from  the  top  of  which 
the  entire  town  lies  at  your  feet.  Miles  of  the  broad  river, 
too,  Partridge  Island,  Suspension  Bridge,  and  the  Bay  of 
Fundy,  noted  from  time  immemorial  for  bold  scenery,  and 
its  high,  sudden  tides,  25,  40,  and  GO  feet  against  the 
steep  and  precipitous  shores,  whose  rocky  headlands 
succeed  each  other  with  picturesque  effect. 


ii« 


\MF 


i'li 


II 


66 


THE   DOMINION   OF   CANADA. 


Wliat  billions  of  fisli  tliere  are  in  that  bay,  if  you  could 
only  count  them:  Forty  thousand  salmon,  seventeen 
thousand  Imrrels  of  shad — cod,  pollack,  hake,  haddock, 
halibut,  herring,  gaspererux,  lobsters,  and  "  small  fry  "  in- 
numerable, taken  every  year,  find  just  as  many  left.  Two 
hundred  boats  and  five  thousand  men  constantly  employed, 
and  the  produce  divided  between  Europe  and  America. 
Verily,  if  you  want  "to  be  pleased  and  cat  a  fish,"  as  Wal- 
ton hath  it,  this  is  the  place  to  visit.  Bring  along  an  I.  R. 
overcoat  with  you,  and  an  umbrella,  at  any  price ;  ten  to 
one  you'll  land  in  a  rain-storm,  and  the  fog  is  dense  enough 
to  dip  almost  any  morning.  Not  much  in  the  fast  and 
fashionable  line,  this  isn't.  Novelty  is  the  leading  attrac- 
tion; fogs,  fishes,  and  militia  red  coats  making  quite  a 
change  to  the  Saratoga  programme.  There  is  a  park  up 
the  hill,  at  the  head  of  the  principal  street — called  King 
Square.  It  has  a  huge  gateway  like  the  entrance  to  our 
Greenwood,  done  in  white  oak  plank.  Greenwood  lies  be- 
hind it,  too,  or  at  least  a  cemetery  curious  and  ancient,  the 
burial-x^lace  of  the  early  settlers,  but  now  made  a  pleasure 
park  by  the  citizens.  Winding  walks  and  rustic  seats 
and  gay  flowers,  and,  over  all,  grave -stones !  No  signs 
or  appearance  of  mound  or  grave  left,  but  simply  the 
brown  slabs  rising  out  of  the  same.  Singular  ornaments 
for  a  pleasure-ground!  Fancy  Central  Park  dotted  all 
over  with  brown  tomb-stones,  sticking  in  the  turf  in  all 
directions  and  at  all  angles.  "  Blossom  and  decay  "  in- 
deed !  Here  and  there,  where  the  newer  walks  have  been 
cut,  they  stand  like  hitching-posts  against  the  graveled 
edge,  and  occasionally  an  old  sepulchre  is  seen  transform- 
ed into  a  broad  seat  for  the  benefit  of  the  lively  prome- 
naders. 

Antiquated  inscriptions  these  stones  bear — quaint  records 


hi 


THE  DOMINION   OF   CANADA. 


67 


of  the  century  past.  Let  us  read  a  few  of  tliera.  One 
standing  near  the  entrance  is  qui^e  prominent : 

"  Sacred  to  the  memory  of  Mary  Edward,  spouse  of  Tho- 
mas Majoribanks,  who  departed  this  life  the  39th  of  Au- 
gust, 1788,  aged  50  years,  sincerely  regretted  by  all  who 
knew  her.  This  stone  was  erected  by  her  surviving  part- 
ner, who  feels  and  deplores  her  irreparable  loss." 

Another  near  the  north-east  corner,  veiy  much  worn  and 
defaced  by  time  and  weather : 

"  In  memory  of  Ann  Peel,  wife  of  Humphrey  Peel,  who 
died  Jan.  15th,  1785,  in  the  37th  year  of  her  age  : 

'  Now  I  am  dead  and  in  my  grave,  , 

And  all  my  bones  be  rotten  ; 
Those  lines  you  see  remember  me, 
Though  I  am  quite  forgotten." 

Certainly,  if  the  reverend  ancestors  of  this  thoughtless 
generation  are  7iot  remembered,  the  very  stones  cry  out 
against  them.  Numbers  of  the  graves  must  have  contain- 
ed several  persons,  whole  families  and  some  relations  in 
many  cases,  judging  by  the  inscriptions.  Here  is  one  in 
partnership  apparently : 

"  This  stone  was  erected  by  Thomas  and  William  Waters, 
in  memory  of  their  beloved  wives,  Ellen  and  Mary.  Mary, 
the  wife  of  William,  who  departed  this  life  Oct.  23d,  1821. 
Ellen,  the  wife  of  Thomas,  who  departed  this  life  April  12th, 
1822  ;  likewise  her  four  infant  children,  llequiescaiit  in 
pace.    Amen." 

Really,  one  would  hardly  believe  that  any  thing  short 
of  an  English  churchyard  contained  such  unique  speci- 
mens.— St.  John  is  generally  flooded  with  strangers  dur- 
ing the  summer — Canadians  coming  down  to  get  a  breath 
of  the  sea  air,  and  to  see  their  cousins  ;  businciss  men  from 
the  "  States,"  who  make  an  annual  visit  to  their  customers, 


t   W: 


ill  W- 


|l 


m 


68 


THE  DOMINION   OP   CANADA. 


and  settle  old  scores.  Many  come  out  of  curiosity  ;  some 
for  tlie  fish  and  some  for  the  ride — going  abroad  in  an 
abridged  way  without  the  long  voyage  and  immense  pock- 
et draught  attendant. 

A  trip  up  the  Saint  John  Kiver  is  pleasant,  and  puts  one 
in  mind,  of  a  sail  up  the  Rhine — possibly,  but  probably,  a 
good  deal  more  of  a  ride  up  the  Connecticut.  It  is  esti- 
mated that  no  less  than  13,000,000  feet  of  lumber  comes 
down  this  same  river  Saint  John  every  year.  Two  steam- 
boats ply  daily  90  miles  to  Fredericton,  the  capital  of  the 
province,  said  to  be  a  very  pretty  place,  by  the  way,  and 
well  garnished  with  red  coats,  enough  of  which  are  visi- 
ble anywhere  across  the  Canada  line. 

No  "  Americans  "  that  I  hear  of  remain  here  for  the 
summer — all  transient — a  look  and  off.  Of  the  hotel  ac- 
commodations the  least  said  the  better.  Park,  Waverley, 
and  Stubbs  are  the  principal  houses. 


-♦♦♦- 


■  f 


CAl^ADIAS  MIIsEEAL  SPEISCS. 

CALEDONIA. 

The  famous  Plantagenet  water,  and  some  sulphur  waters, 
are  to  be  found  at  Caledonia,  (L'Original,)  Ontario,  72  miles 
from  Montreal.  The  route  thither  is  that  pursued  in  the 
article  entitled  To  River  Ottawa  :  from  Montreal  by  La 
Chine  Railway  to  La  Chine,  thence  to  the  steamboat  sta- 
tion, L'Original,  by  steamboat  and  cars  ;  thence  by  stages, 
9  miles— or  to  Point  Fortune,  opposite  Carillon,  instead 
of  L'Original.  The  journey  from  Montreal  occupies  about 
12  hours,  and  is  one  of  the  grandest  in  the  Dominion. 


H(W"piw«iuiipM  nmmnf^T'^T'mfr 


THE   DOMINION  OF   CANADA. 


69 


1 


The  springs  may  also  be  readied  from  Prescott,  opposite 
Ogdensburg,  on  tlie  Saint  Lawrence,  by  rail  to  Ottawa, 
and  thence  by  boat  and  rail,  as  described  in  the  article  on 
River  Ottawa. 

The  Plantagenet  water  is  too  well-known  as  a  valuable 
curative  for  rheumatic  and  cutaneous  affections  to  need 
description  here,  and  the  contiguity  of  the  springs  to  the 
Canadian  metropolis  assures  the  tourist  of  meeting  there 
abundant  and  excellent  society.  The  "  season"  is  during 
the  heats  of  August. 

The  Plant»igenet  water  was  first  discovered,  it  is  said, 
by  the  i)igeons;  and  they  used  to  flock  thither  in  such 
great  numbers  that  human  curiosity  investigated  the 
place,  and  found  that  the  pigeon's  instinctive  scent  of  salt 
had  led  him  aright.  There  are  hotel  accommodations 
so  excellent  that  LippincoW s  Gazetteer  has  made  them 
the  chief  subject  of  remark  in  mentioning  the  springs. 


I 


'i 


THE    SAINT    LEON    SPRINGS 

Are  at  the  village  of  Saint  Leon,  on  the  Riviere  du  Loup 
en  Haut,  between  Montreal  and  Quebec,  20  miles  by 
stage  from  Three  Rivers.  As  is  stated  in  the  article  on 
Ontario  and  the  Saint  Lawrence,  (which  see,)  this 
city  stands  at  the  mouth  of  the  River  Saint  Maurice,  at  the 
foot  of  the  Lake  Saint  Peter,  midway  between  Montreal 
and  Quebec.  The  scenery  in  the  region  is  very  grand, 
particularly  up  the  Saint  Maurice  to  the  Shawenegan 
Falls. 


t 


SAINT   CATHERINE'S. 


The  famous  springs  of  Saint  Catherine's,  chiefly  prized 
among  Canadian  mineral  waters,  are  located  at  the  town 
of  the  same  name,  in  Ontario  Province,  11  miles  from 


lib  1!^ 


.aV' 


:    <'l 


(Hi 


10  THE   DOMIIflON   OF   CANADA. 

Niagara  Falls,  and  33  from  Hamilton.  It  is  reached  by 
the  Great  Western  Railway  of  Canada,  cither  from  Detroit 
or  Suspension  Bridge.  The  resort  is  popular,  not  only 
among  Canadians,  but  with  great  numbers  of  tourists  and 
health-seekers  from  the  United  States.  The  hotel  arrange- 
ments have  not  come  to  hand  at  the  latest  moment,  and 
we  are  therefore  obliged  to  omit  them. 

« 

LIST  OF  SALMON  AND  TROUT  RIVERS  BELOW  QUEBEC. 

(From  the  Canadian  Handbook  and  Tourists''  Guide.) 

MUes. 

From  Quebec  to  Murray  Bay 78 

The  Saint  Lawrence  here  furnishes  a  few  salmon  and  many 
fine  trout. 

From  Murray  Bay  to  the  Saguenay 44 

The  fishing  here  is  for  the  white  porpoise,  and  has  been  men- 
tioned in  the  article  on  the  Saint  Lawrence. 

River  Escoumain 23 

Between  this  and  the  Saguenay  are  two  branches  of  the  Ber- 
geronne,  both  furnishing  a  few  salmon  and  many  trout. 

River  Portneuf 26 

Plenty  of  trout  and  salmon. 

Sault  au  Cochon 9 

Impassable  for  salmon,  but  full  of  trout. 

La  Val 2 

Superior  salmon  and  trout. 

Bersemis 24 

In  all  its  tributaries  are  many  fine  salmon ;  between  it  and  La 
Val  are  the  Colmnbia,  Plover,  and  Blanche,  all  poor  salmon 
streams. 

River  Outardes 11 

Manicouagan —  4 16 

Mistassimi 13 

Betscie 3 

Godbou 15 

A  celebrated  salmon  river,  one  of  the  best  in  Quebec  Pro- 
vince. 


2 

24 


11 
16 
12 
3 
15 


THE   DOMINION   OF   CANADA.  Tl 

Miles. 
Trinity 15 

Good  salmon  and  trout. 

Little  Trinity 10 

Calumet 3 

Pentecost , .    14 

Not  a  salmon  river. 
Sa^te  Marguerite 36 

One  of  the  best  for  both  salmon  and  trout. 
Moisie '. 23 

Celebrated  for  fine,  large  salmon. 

Trout 7 

Manitou 35 

Good  trout  fishing ;  salmon  obstructed  by  falls. 

Sheldrake 16 

Magpie 22 

Only  a  few  salmon. 
Saint  John 5 

An  admirable  salmon  stream 
Mingan 16 

Probably  the  best  salmon  river  in  Quebec  Province,  and  ex- 
cellent for  trout. 

The  streams  emptjdng  into  tlie  Saint  Lawrence  from  the 
south  are  ruined  by  mill-dams  for  salmon,  excepting  those 
emptying  into  Gaspe  Basin  ;  but  they  all  afford  superior 
trout  fishing.  This  section  of  country  may  be  reached  by 
steamer  for  Saint  John,  leaving  Boston  at  7|  a.m.  ;  time 
out,  33  hours  ;  fare,  $6 ;  meals  extra.  Or,  one  may  go  by 
rail  to  Pc^tland,  and  intercept  the  steamer — or  go  from 
Portland  to  Calais,  Maine,  by  another  steamboat,  and 
thence  by  rail  to  Woodstock,  New-Brunswick,  on  the 
River  Saint  John,  whence  by  stage  (Grand  Portage  road) 
to  Riviere  du  Loup. 

STEAMBOAT    ROUTES. 

There  are  two  lines  of  steamboats  traversing  the  whole 
length  of  Lake  Ontario  and  the  Saint  Lawrence  from  the 


,;   W. 


72 


THE  DOMINION   OF  CANADA. 


western  end  to  Montreal.  One  is  English  and  the  other 
American.  The  former,  the  Royal  Mail  Line,  office  in 
Great  Saint  James  street,  Montreal,  follows  the  English 
shore  exclusively  until  it  reaches  Clayton  and  Alexandria 
Bay,  in  the  river.  The  latter,  the  Ontario  Steamboat 
Company,  also  known  as  the  American  Express  Line, 
Capt.  H.  N.  Throop,  Oswego,  N.  Y.,  Superintendent,  touches 
at  all  the  American  stations  on  both  lake  and  river,  and 
at  Toronto,  Kingston,  Prescott,  and,  of  course,  Montreal, 
besides.  The  fare  on  both  is  about  the  same,  but  the  gold 
question  affords  some  annoyance  always  on  the  English 
side.  American  travelers  usually  much  jirefer  the  Ontario 
Steamboat  Company's  arrangements,  although  there  is 
one  change  of  boats  at  Ogdensburg,  which  there  is  not  on 
the  other.  The  fares  and  times  have  not  been  sent  us  ; 
but  the  American  boats  will  probably  leave  Lewiston  (hav- 
ing come  from  Toronto)  for  Oswego,  Ogdensburg,  Mont- 
real, etc.,  at  11  A.M.  each  day  during  the  season,  which 
begins  very  early  and  continues  till  November.  The 
American  boats  are  the  Ontario,  Bay  State,  Lord  Elgin, 
etc.,  and  the  English  boats  are  the  Magnet,  the  Alexandra, 
the  Columbian,  etc.  Below  Montreal,  the  Richelieu  boats 
are  under  the  same  control  as  the  Royal  Mail  Line ;  of 
American  boats  we  have  received  no  intelligence.  There 
is  usually  some  opposition  line  running  from  Montreal  to 
Quebec,  and  thence  to  the  Saguenay.  All  boats  change  at 
Montreal  and  Quebec. 

There  are  "  excursions"  from  Montreal  to  the  city  of 
Ottawa  and  to  all  points  below  Montreal,  even  to  Halifax 
and  Saint  John's.  Handbills  referring  to  them  may 
always  be  found  at  the  principal  hotels  in  Montreal.  The 
prices  stated,  it  should  be  remembered,  are  in  silver,  not 
greenbacks. 


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TIME  TABLES. 


WHITE   MOUNTAINS. 
Connecticut  and  Passumpsic  Kivors  Railway. 


Going  South. 


M  lil. 


A.M. 

7  oo 


i8 
30 
40 

57 


8  12 

8  32 

8*53 

9  06 
9  18 
9  25 

•  •  •  • 

9  46 
9  SI 

•  •  •  « 

10  13 
10  28 
10  35 

10  45 
n  02 

11  16 
II  24 

"  35 

11  so 

12  00 

NOON 


Frs.      Miles 


30 

55 
80 

95 
30 

55 

(>5 
80 

1  90 

2  00 


15 
30 
40 

55 
70 

85 

95 
10 

35 

55 
^>5 
85 
05 

2J 


O 

5 
10 

15 
20 

25 
33 

40 

42 
47 
49 

52 
56 

59 
62 
66 
70 

74 
77 
81 
88 
93 

95 
100 

106 

110 


STATIONS. 


Going  North. 


Miles.       Frs 


Leave  Arrive 

...North-Derby.  , . 

Newport 

Coventry 

. ..narton  Landing 


1 10 
105 
1 00 

,     95 
H.\k  TOM '      90 


. .  ..South- Bar  ton. . 

West-Hurke 

Folsoni's 

LVNOON 

..St.  Johnsbury  Cen.. 
. .  St.  JoHN.sntTRY  .. 

Passunipsi  ^  .... 

McLeran'.s 

Barnet 

. . ,    .  Mclndoes 

Ryegate 

.    .Wi.t.LS  River.  . . 

Newbury 

.  ..South-Newbury  . . 

Bradford 

Fairlee 

..North-Thetfor  1... 

Thetford 

. . .  Ponipanoosuc  . . . 

Norwich 

White  River  Junc. 
Arrive  Lea-'-e 


«5 
77 
70 
68 

63 
61 

SH 
54 
51 
48 

44 
40 

36 
33 
29 
22 

17 
15 

lO 

4 
o 


20 

95 
75 
^•5 
3  50 
3  15 
2  85 

2  75 
2  60 
2  SO 
2  40 
2  25 
2  10 
00 
85 
65 

50 
40 

25 

95 
75 
65 
45 
25 
o 


M 

ail. 

p.  M.» 

7 

25 

7 

12 

6 

58 

6 

47 

6 

2) 

6 

18 

5 

5X 

5 

34 

5 

18 

5 

II 

5 

01 

4  40 

4 

34 

4 

17 

4 

00 

3 

43 

3 

32 

3 

16 

3 

04 

2 

55 

2 

44 

2 

30 

2 

20 

P  M. 

RAILWAY  CONNECTIONS. 

At  Wells  River,  with  White  Mountains  Railway  for  Littleton,  (the 
nearest  railway  station  to  White  and  Francnn  Mountains,)  and  Boston, 
Concord,  and  Montreal  Railway  for  Concord. 

At  White  River  Junction,  with  Northern  (N.  H.)  Railway  for  Con- 
cord Manchester,  Portsmouth,  Nashua,  Worce  ter.  Providence,  Lowell, 
Law.ence,  and  Boston,  i'ertnont  Central Raihvay,  for  Waterbury,  Mount 
Mansfield,  Montpelier,  Burlington,  (Jgdensburg,  Montreal,  and  Saratoga 
Springs.  Ve^  uont  Central  ajtd  Connecticut  River  L me,  for  Windsor, 
Bellows  Fall>,  Rutland,  Sin-at  .ga  Springs,  Kcene,  Fitchburg,  Worcester, 
Providence,  Brattleboro,  Northampton,  Springfield,  Hartford,  New-Haven, 
New- York,  and  Southern  cities. 

STEAMBOAT  CONNECTION. 

Steamer  leaves  Newport  daily,  during  the  pleasure  travel  season,  for 
Magog,  connecting  with  coaches  for  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  (Sherbrooke 
Station,)  arriving  at  Montreal  or  Quebec  same  evening. 


I 


HI 


TIME  TABLES. 


I   ^    I- 


^*;4 


1 


BOSTON,   CONCORD,    AND    MONTREAL,    AND 
WHITE  MOUNTAINS  (N.H.)  RAILWAYS. 


CONCORD  TO  LITTLErON.  |  LITTLETON  TO  CONCORD. 


Ace. 


Mail. 


P.M. 

3  23 
3  32 


54 
10 

25 
35 
52 

57 
12 

25 


5  49 

6  OS 

P.M. 


A.M. 

10  34 

10  41 

•  •  •  • 

11  02 
11  20 

II  35 

11  45 

12  02 
12  07 
12  22 
12  35 

I  08 


23 

48 


2  11 
2  20 


2 

2 
3 
3 
3 
4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
5 
5 


34 
45 
15 
30 
43 
00 

05 
20 
40 

57 
13 

28 


P.M. 


Mis. 


o 

2 

5 
10 

13 
18 
22 
27 
29 
33 
37 
41 
45 
48 

51 

57 
59 
62 
67 

71 

79 

84 

89 
93 

93 

9^ 
103 

loS 

"3 


STATION.S. 


j  arri 


avc 
rive 


Leave  Arrive 

Concord* 

Kast-Concord 

North-Concord 

Canterbury 

Northtield 

Sanbornton 

Union  Bridge 

Laronia 

Lakti  Village 

Weirs    

Meredith  Village 

Fotjgs's  Road 

Holderness 

Hridgevrater 

Quincy 

Ruiiiney 

West-Rumney 

Wentworth 

Warren 

East- Haverhill 

..Haverhill  and  Newbury.. 

North- Haverliill 

Wondsville 

™^  (•  Wells  R.2  i  ^^^^'^ 
leave   j  |  arrive 

Rath 

Lisbon 

North-Lisbon 

Littleton 

Arrive        .  Leave 


Mis. 

Ace. 

A.M. 

113 

10  05 

III 

9  5S 

loS 

103 

9  33 

lOO 

9  20 

95 

9  00 

91 

8  50 

86 

8  33 

84 

8  28 

80 

8  13 

76 

8  00 

72 

.... 

68 

7  3^' 

65 

62 

7  20 

A.M. 

S6 

54 

SI 

46 

42 

34 

29 

24 

20  1 

20  i 

■si 

10  1 

5  : 

0  1 

. 

Mail. 

P.M. 

3  25 
3  18 


57 

47 

28 

18 
02 
57 
43 
31 


1  07 

•  •  •  • 

12  52 
12  26 

•  •  •  • 

12  03 

II  54 
II  40 
II  29 

10  59 

10  ,;4 

ic  33 

ID  17 
10  12 
10  06 

9  47 
9  30 

9  15 
9  00 

A.M. 


1  Railways  diverging  from  Concord. — Boston,  Concord,  and  Mon- 
treal, above ;  Northern  ;  Concord  and  Portsmouth ;  Concord  and  Clare- 
mont ;  Concord,  Manchester,  and  Lawrence. 

2  Connects  with  Connecticut  and  Passumpsic  River  Railw.iy. 
Steamer  Lady  of  the  Lake,  during  the  season  of  navigation,  leaves 

Weirs  for  Centre  Harbor,  Wolfboro,  etc.,  on  arrival  of  each  train. 

Stages  leave  Plymouth  and  Littleton  for  White  Mountains  and  Fran- 
conia  Notch. 

Stages  leave  Sanbornton  for  New-Hampton  and  Gilmanton  ;  Meredith 
Village,  for  Conway  ;  Plymouth,  for  Franconia ;  Littleton,  for  Lancaster ; 
and  Barton,  for  Stanstead  and  other  places,  (see  Connecticut  and  Passump- 
sic Railway,)  on  the  arrival  of  the  first  up-train  from  Boston. 


TiaiE  TABLES. 


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^  ft" 


TIME   TABLES. 


For  the  "White  and  Franconia  Mountains  and  Jjake 

Memphremagog. 

This  is  the  most  direct  and  pleasant  route  to  White  and  Franconia 
Mountains,  Lal:e  Willoughby,  and  Lake  Memphremagog,  passing  near 
the  villages  of  Norwich,  Vt.,  Hanover,  N.  H.,  (where  is  located  the  cele- 
brated Dartmouth  College,)  Thetford,  Vt.,  Lyme,  N.  H.,  Fairlee,  Vt., 
Orford,  N.  H.,  Bradford,  Vt.,  Haverhill,  N.  H.,  Newbury,  Vt.,  (the  loca- 
tion of  the  sulphur  springs,  much  resorted  to  for  their  medicinal  qualities,) 
Wells  River,  Vt.,  (where  White  Mountains  Railway  connects  for  Little- 
ton, the  nearest  railway  station  to  the  White  and  Franconia  Mountains,) 
Barnet,  St.  Johnsbury,  Lyndon,  Barton,  and  Newport,  (the  head  of  Lake 
Memphremagog.) 

The  hotel  accommodations  along  the  entire  line  are  first-class.  "  Smok- 
ing-cars" run  on  all  trains.  Luxuriously  furnished  "  ladies'  cars"  run 
daily  between  Springfield  and  Lake  Memphremagog  during  the  pleasure- 
travel  season. 

From  New- York. — The  route  via  New- York  and  New-Haven  Rail- 
way, or  New- Haven  Steamers  and  Connecticut  River  Valley,  is  sixty 
vtiles  shorter  than  any  other,  and  the  time  correspondingly  quicker.  The 
scenery  along  the  valley  of  the  Connecticut  River,  which  is  followed  for 
some  200  miles,  is  unsurpassed  for  beauLy  and  variety.  There  is  no 
change  of  cars  between  Springfield  ard  Lake  Memphremagog. 

From  Boston. — The  route  is  via  Boston  and  Lowell,  Boston  and 
Maine,  or  Fitchburg  Railways  to  White  River  Junction,  there  connecting 
with  Passumpsic  Road  for  points  as  named  above.  No  change  of  cars  be- 
tween Boston  (Lowell  Railway  depot)  and  Lake  Memphremagog. 

From  Saratoga  Springs. — The  route  '\%via  Lake  George,  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  and  Burlington,  or  via  Rutland  and  Bellows  Falls  to  White  River 
Junction,  as  above. 

From  Quebec. — The  route  is  via  Grand  Trunk  Railway  to  Sherbrooke, 
thence  by  coach  to  Magog,  connecting  with  steamer  for  Newport,  thence 
by  Passumpsic  Railway  to  White  and  Franconia  Mountains,  New- York, 
or  Boston. 

From  Montreal. — The  route  is  via  Grand  Trunk  Railway  to  Sher- 
brooke, or  via  Montreal  and  Champlain  and  Stanstead,  ShefFord  and 
Chambly  Railways,  to  Waterloo  ;  thence  by  coaches  to  Magog  or  Knov\J- 
ton's  Landing,  connecting  with  steamer  for  Newport,  thence  by  Passump- 
sic Railway  to  White  Mountains,  New- York,  or  Boston. 


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JjONG   branch.— Baritan  &  Delaware  Bay  Railway. 


Going  South. 

Going  North. 

Accom. 
Train. 

u 

• 

u 

(U 

^  if. 

re 

rv  U3 

A.M. 

11  15 

12  40 
12    50 

I    10 
'l'2i 

<u 

1^ 
0 

19 

20 

22 

23 

26 

28 

!! 

30 
31 
33 
34 

STATIONS. 

JJ 

"3 

94 

93 

91 
90 

87 
85 
84 

85 
86 

88 
89 

43 
u 

c    . 

Oil 

P.M. 
4  00 

4  15 

5  22 

P.M. 
4  00 

4  15 

5  35 
5  45 
5  52 

5  59 

6  II 
6  17 
6  26 

6  31 
6  36 
6  42 
6  46 

Leave                    Arrive 
(  . . .  New- York  . . .  ) 
J  Pier  No.  32,  x\.  R.  [ 
(  Pier  No.  3,  N.  R.  ) 

{Steamboat) 

P.    M.    PiKK 

..Port  Monmouth.  . 
Hichlands. 

P.M. 
2   QO 

12    40 
12    32 

12    12 
12   02 

A.M. 

9  35 
9  20 

7  55 
7  48 
7  41 
7  34 
7  22 

7  15 
7  09 

A.M. 

9  35 
9  20 

8  07 

. .  .Middletown 

Red  B'Vnk.. 

5  43 

■   •  •  • 

P.M. 

Shrewsburv 



P.M. 

12   02 

Junction 

I    13 

•  •  •  '  ' 

I    26 
I    31 

I  37 
I  41 

' Eatontovvn. . . . 

....  Oceanport 

Branchport . . . 

, . .Long  Branch.  . 

II    56 

II    51 
II    46 
II    40 

7  02 
6  56 
6  51 
6  45 

12    20 
12    24 

5  59 

6  02 

7  30 
7  25 

I    01 

12    56 

HOUS ATONIC    RAIL^WAY. 


Bridgeport  to  Pittsfield.      |      Pittsfield  to  Bridgeport. 


Pass. 

Pass. 

p.m. 

A.M. 

S  35 

10   30    1 

6  03 

10   58 

6  14 

II     ID 

6  25 

II    21 

6  41 

II  35 

6  59 

11.50 

7  IS 

12    OS 

7  31 

12    22    1 

8  01 

12    52     1 

8  20 

1    09 

8  34 

I     23 

8  .^ 

I    38 

9  06 

I  53  i 

9  II 

I  58  • 

9    21 

2  08 

9  36 

2  24 

9  45 

2  34 

9  52 

2  42  ! 

10  00 

2  51 

10  06 

2  58  1 

10 

06 

10 

II 

10 

23 

10 

28 

10 

32 

10 

45 

II 

00 

p.m. 

3  05 
17 


26 


3  30 


38 

3  50 

P.M. 


Mis. 


o 
10 
IS 
19 
23 
29 
35 
42 
48 

57 
61 
67 

73 
75 
79 
85 
87 
89 

92 
93 

95 
99 

lOI 

102 
106 
no 


STATIONS. 


Leave 


. .  Bridgeport.  . 

Stepney. . . . 

Botsford: . . . 

. . . .  Newtown . . . . 
. . .  Hawleyville.  . 
. .  ..Brookfield.  .. . 
.  .New-Milford... 
.  .Gaylordsville.. . 

Kent  .. 

.Cornwall  Bridge. 
.West  Cornwall. . 
...Falls  Village.. 

Canaan 

...Ashlev  P'alls  . . 

....Sheffield 

. ..  Barrington  . . . 
.  .V.  Deusenville  . 
. . .  Housatonic  . . . 

Glendale  . . . . 

. . .  Stockbridge. . . 

South-Lee 

Lee 

.Lenox  Furnace.. 

Lenox 

Deweys 

. .  Pittsfield..  , 


Arrive 


Arrive 


Leave 


Mis. 

Pass,   j 

p.m. 

no 

2  20 

100 

I   53 

95 

I   39 

91 

I  23 

87 

III 

81 

12  55 

75 

12  39 

68 

12  22 

62 

12  07 

53 

II  34 

49 

IT     24 

43 

II    08 

37 

10    52 

35 

10  45 

31 

10  35 

25 

10  19 

23 

10  10 

21 

lo  05 

18 

9  5^ 

17 

9  51 

15 

9  45 

II 

9  34 

9 

9  26 

8 

9  22 

4 

9  12 

0 

9  00 

A.H. 

Pass. 

p.m. 
8  25 


55 

41 
29 
16 
56 

34 
16 

56 
33 
19 
00 

44 
3^> 
26 
II 

02 

57 
48 

44 

37 

2S 

3  20 
3  12 
03 
SO 


3 

2 

P.M. 


I 


\}  ill 


Through  Fare,  $3  10. 


fm 


u 


8 


TIME   TABLES. 


i>rAUGATUCK    HAILWAY. 


Bridgeport  to  Winsted. 


WiNSTED  TO  Bridgeport. 


Pass. 

P.M. 

5  20 
5  32 
5  39 


<>5 
14 
26 

37 
49 
53 
08 
i8 
40 

57 
8  05 
8  14 

8  31 
8  44 

P.M. 


Pass. 

Mis. 

A.M. 

10    15 

0 

10   26 

3 

10  33 

5 

II  00 

14 

11  og 

16 

11  21 

20 

11  32 

23 

II  44 
II  48 

27 

28 

12  03 

32 

12    13 

35 

12  35 

41 

12    52 

47 

I  00 

49 

I  10 

52 

I  27 

I  40 

57 
62 

P.M. 

• 

STATIONS. 


Leave 


Arrive 


.Bridgeport. 
.  ..Stratford. . . 
. .  Junction. . . 

Derby. . .. 

. . .  Ansonia.  . . 
.  ..Seymour.. . 
.Beacon  Falls. 
.  Naugatuck. . 
..Union  City. . 
.  Waterbury. 
.  .Waterville  . , 
. .  Plymouth. . . 
Camp's  Mills. 
. .  Litchneld. . , 
.Wolcottville  . 
. ,,  Burrville. .. 
..Winsted.  .. 


Arrive 


Leave 


Mis. 

Pass. 

A.M. 

61 

10    GO 

57   ! 

9  50 

56  : 

9  44 

48  1 

9  17 

46    ! 

9  09 

42    1 
39 

8  55 
8  44 

34 

8  3T 

33 

8  28 

29 

8  16 

26 

8  03 

20 

7  41 

15 

7  25 

12 

^  17 

9 

7  08 

4 

6  52 

0 

6  40 

i 

A.M. 

Pass. 


P.M. 


30 
18 

13 

46 

37 
24 
13 
01 

57 
45 
31 
12 

55 
47 
38 
2  22 
2  10 

P.M. 


^^  r 


Through  Fare,  $2.05. 


Jl 

i 

^Hi 

't.   ■•■ 

ii'lH 

l 

Ijill 

i      -; 

'"■, 

TKENTON  FALIiS.-UTICA  AND  BLACK   KIVEB 

KAIL^WAY. 


Mixed. 

P.M. 

5  30 

5  48 

6  00 

6  24 


Pass. 

Mis 

A.M. 

8  00 

0 

8  20 

6 

8  35 

10 

•   •   .  • 

12 

9  03 

16 



17 

STATIONS. 


Leave 


, ..  Utxca 

Marcy 

Stittsville  . . . 

..Holland  Patent. 

Trenton  .... 

.Trenton  Fal'.. 


Arrive 


Mis. 

Mixed.' 

1 

A.M. 

35 

II    10 

29 
25 

ID    50 
10    38 

23 

19 
18 

10    13 

Pass. 


2  35 


TIME  TABLES. 


13 


iss. 


30 
10 

58 
35 


^^ 


10 


TIME   TABLES. 


!■  '>ii 


KENSSELAER    AND    SAR.    TOGA    BAIL  WAY. 


Accom. 

Mail. 

Miles. 

STATIONS. 

Miles. 

Accom. 

Mail. 

P.M. 

A.M. 

Leave               Arrive 

1       A.M. 

P.M. 

4  25 

7    10 

, , 

Albany^ 

•  • 

10   50 

9  00 

4  50 

7  45 

. . 

.  ...Schenectady 

•  • 

10  05 

8  25 

4  40 

7  30 

0 

Troy 

95 

10  35 

8  50 

4  45 

7  36 

I 

. .  .Green  Island 

94 

10  30 

8  45 

4  58 

7  49 

4 

Waterford 

91 

10  18 

8  30 

5  06 

7  58 

6 

. .  Albany  Junction. . 

89 

10  13 

8  22 

5  21 

8  13 

12 

..  .Mechanicsville. .  . 

83 

9  56 

8  07 

5  50 

8  46 

25 

Ballston2 

70 

9  24 

7  36 

6  15 

9  10 

32 

Saratoga 

63 

9  05 

7  17 

6  44 

9  :5 

43 

Gansevoort 

52 

8  33 

6  44 

7  00 

9  48 

48 

Moreau^ 

47 

8  19 

6  29 

7  07 

9  S3 

49 

...Fort  Edward... 

46 

8  13 

6  24 

7  16 

lo  01 

52 

. .  Dunham's  Basin. . 

43 

8  02 

6  15 

7  28 

10  12 

57 

.,  ..Smith's  Basin.  .. 

38 

7  so 

6  04 

7  39 

10  23 

61 

Fort  Ann 

34 

7  39 

5  S3 

7  SO 

10  33 

65 

Comstock's  Landing. 

30 

7  28 

5  42 

8  06 

10  50 

71 

^  )  . .  Junction. .  (  = 

24 

7  10 

5  25 

•  •  • 

73 

^\  .h.  Cham.4.  jl 

26 

■  •  •  • 

■  •  ■  • 

8  10 

10  53 

•  • 

=:  )  . .  Junction. .  (  J5 

a   • 

7  05 

5  20 

8  32 

II  18 

79 

Fairhaven 

16 

6  43 

4  58 

8  38 

II  23 

81 

Hydeville 

14 

6  37 

4  52 

8  47 

II  32 

84 

.  ...Castleton^..  . . 

II 

6  28 

4  42 

9  05 

11  50 

91 

...West- Rutland 

4 

6  12 

4  25 

9  IS 

12  00 

95 

Rutland" 

0 

6  00 

4  15 

P.M. 

M. 

Arrive               Leave 

A.M. 

P.M. 

Connects  with  Hud,  R.  Railway ; 
Troy  and  Schenectady  Railway  ; 
and  Troy  and  Greenbush  R'way. 

Steamboats  to  New- York,  etc. 

Junction  of  Saratoga  and  Schenec- 
tady Railway. 

Glenn's  Falls,  Lake  George,  etc. 


^  Steamboats  to  Burlington,  Platts- 
burg  and  Montreal. 

^  Junction  of  Rutland  and  Washing- 
ton Railway. 

"  Connects  with  Rutland  and  Bur- 
lington Railway. 


WHITE    MOUNTAINS 
Grand  Trunk  Railway  of  Canada. 


Pass. 


A.M. 

7  40 

7  55 

8  ID 

8  14 

8  43 

9  00 

9  27 

9  40 

10  00 

A.M. 


Express. 

Miles. 

P.M. 

I  10 

0 

I  25 

5 

I  40 

II 

I  45 

12 

2  15 

22 

2  30 

2  55 

27 
36 

3  10 

41 

3  30 

4  10 

47 
62 

4  40 

5  15 
5  30 

70 

80 
86 

5  SO 

91 

STATIONS. 

Leave  Arrive 

..Portland.  . 

.  ..Falmouth.  . 

.  .  Yarmouth . . 

.Yarmouth  Junction. 

.  New-Gloucester. 
..Danville  Junction. . 

.Mechanic  Falls. 

Oxford 

...South-Paris. . 

.Bryant's  Pond. 

Bethel 

Gilead 

Shelburne. . . 

GORHAM 


Miles. 

Pass. 

A.M. 

861 

8    ID 

857 
850 
849 

839 
834 
82s 

6  55 

7  40 
7  35 
7  03 

i     6  47 
6  18 

820 

6  05 

814 

5  45 

799 

A.M. 

791 

781 

•    •    •   • 

775 

■    •    •    • 

770 

•    •    ■    • 

Express. 


P.M. 

2  15 
00 
40 

35 
00 


12  45 
12  15 
12  00 
II  40 

II  GO 
10    30 

9  so 
9  30 


TIME  TABLES. 


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R  S 

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ES. 
i£  >^ 


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SNO'-'ro■*^^■^ONO»o^^>oO'-'■^'*■»o<-l■^^O^^^lOro^oO►«   •♦"i 

p^  p<  w  M  M  H  N  N  foro"<ffO'^'*'>n>'">>o»o  >o\c  vo  tx  t»oo  a*  o^  On  o  o  o  o 


(d!  ro  O   "I 


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a\  N  >o  >ooo 

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ooooooONOOOHi-iMNNriNMMNNroro-<t^'*>n>'> 


V  S 


.Q»<>QN«^>000»00' 

SO'*OM»*>M^wro>oS 
B<  ^  ^  lO  «0  »OvO  NO  tN  t^oo  pI 


•auiij  o3BDiq3 


N 


»o 


n 

ONI 


tN  I 

ro  1 


lot 


Xq 


TIME  TABLES. 


19 


t      • 


00    tv»^ 


1  m  fo  N 


N  «  N  " 


OvOO  o 


00  en  oo  o> 


^  y»  m  fO 

o  ►*  ■♦ »" 

o  o  o  2 

M     M     M     M 


pi  f*^  O  ►^ 
^  -^  m  >o 


13  as'divi) 


fi  11 


O   Q   >0 
f*5  f  fO- 


M     M     O     O^OO 


•  UBupy  w^ 


■*  P    Q   w  sO  vO 

•  o  N  o  '-'  fn  N 
00  t^  tsxo  «o«o'^it-mmN  n 


SQ     M    10  IT)  o 

o  "ON  >o  m  o 


N    N    O    »0 
O   «0  N 

N 


N  M  O  0  au 


0  f^ 


mo  m  w  10  •<r  N 

fJfJMNNiiMNNMMWiHO 


O  00 

OV3 


•auiijivw^ 


>n  ■♦  O  00  N   tNvO  O     • 


00  tN  FN  rNvo  vo  •*  * 


C  M  o^  o  «o  »n 

W   10  N    O    M    f*5- 


•uEupyt?^ 


o  00  N  M  o  o^  «nvo       o  «o  i>>oo  o  t^-vp  O  M 

rONNMMMNM      •mOOO^  a>00    F^  «^  < 


00    •-. 

0000  t>.\ 

M    N    N    N 


'^i 


fO  ^o>>-imr^ONC>»ot^>oi-i  rosO  «  *oo  fi  »noo  k  o  CTs«->  00  f'>0\w 
■^  ro  >-•  "H  0  OOO  tx\0  ■♦rON  ro"  m  0^r^t>.>omrON  O  O  5>0O  tN  lo  •^ 
N       NNNNwi-ii-iMHii-iw,  NNMmiiwi-imihihi-ii-i 


V  >!  g  E 


"d    !    •    '    ^    !    •   *    •    I    I    ! 

•flj     •  C^  b     •  C  CT3  Ui  -  !« 

^^  8  rt  «  SS^iJ.Si  g-g 

'cC^  rt  pF^  wJrt.S  MQ.i: 


..-  ii  •^  da  •«  .•* 


•   ,1.   4*   »-    *^ 


e  Q'rt 


es   .   •   •  — 

0/    .  4->^  s  ,,  V 


c 
o 


p  =  i? 

U 


0  t>s  >noo 

«    N    N    W 

M    cofomfnmforoforo^'^fnmfnforofOfO'1-'*'*'*-*'^'*'*'^^ 

•  00 

«n  0  N  »o  fn  •♦ 

O     M     M     M     M     (S 


F/a  Adrian . 


800    N      .    O 


o  to   •  tn  •  r^ 


ON  m  >n  Q    . 
txoo  o  o  (»; 


m  o  m  o  o 


S  I  This  train  leaves  every  night 
O"  ="  2  2  S  <  ^  except  Saturday. 


0t^0«O«O0t^^'0NMt^iO0»0     •   msO  O    ■*   "f  N    O    w 

MNiOHioi-imKmtoo(^>oN    •mo  Via  Air  Line  «o  w  n  »n  m  m  m 

MMMNNMMv.^NNrOmfO'^    •  »OvO        *  \0    iN  t^  t^OO   0^  O    "   ^ 


'^gs 


t^  t>.  to  n  O  to 
m  to  M  to  •♦  •^ 

10  too  vO  t^  ts 


, . .  Via  Adrian. 


w    O  QO    "<t 

M     10    M     O 


Ov 


8 


m  mao  ioto«oo<'ONM  0  t^mo  j; 
-t  H  roo  mo  N  mw  tomo  mS 


coooo^ooM'-'NNi-iMNvNMmm  •♦vo  vo 


Xq  o3b3U|3  puB  opaiox  uaa.wjaq  pue  ;  atuij  snqiun(Of)  .<q  opajox 
-aq  i  auiij  "IBJjna;  Xq  lina  ain  au^  puB  o[Bj^*na  uasM^sq  suiBax 


20 


TIME   TABLES. 


MILWAUKEE    A.ND    ST.  PAUL  KAILWAY. 


V 


Exp. 

Pass. 

A.M. 

P.M. 

8  20 

11  CX) 

9  OS 

II  48 

9  25 

12  05 

10  13 

12  SI 

10  30 

I  06 

10  55 

I  33 

II  40 

2  30 

•  •  •  • 

3  35 

•  •  •  • 

5  55 

1 

12  00 

2  50 

12  30 

3  17 

I  30 

4  22 

2  47 

6  05 

3  35 

7  10 

3  57 

7  35 

4  20 

S05 

4  40 

.... 

5  30 

9  00 

7  05 

10  00 

8  20 

P.M. 

10  01 

10  40 

II  00 

II  10 

II  54 

12  24 

1 

12  59 

I  37 

2  29 

3  16 

4  32 

S  18 

5  50 

6  02 

6^3 

7  50 

8  20 

12  00 

8  10 

11  50 

P.M. 

A.M. 

Mis. 


o 

14 
20 

36 

42 

5° 

63 


71 
105 

70 
80 

95 

n8 

132 
138 
145 

151 
165 

193 
194 

220 

231 

237 
240 

256 

267 

279 
290 

30s 
320 

338 
353 
364 
367 
380 
400 
409 
406 


STATIONS. 


Leave 


.Milwaukee. 
,  Brookfield  Junction. 

Waukesha 

Eagle 

Pafmyra 

. . .  Whitewater  . . . 
.  .Milton  Junction. . . 


Arrive 


Janesville 

arrive Monroe leave 


Edgerton 

Stoughton 

, Madison.  

Mazomanie 

Spring  Green 

Lone  Rock 

Avoca 

Muscoda 

Boscobel 

Prairie  du  Chien 

I^ORTH  McGregor 

Postville 

Ossian 

Calmer 

Conover 

.Cresco 

..Lime  Springs 

Le  Roy 

Adams 

..Austin...... 

Blooming  Prairie 

Owatonna 

Faribault 

Dundas 

Northfield ,.... 

Farmington 

Mendota 

arrive. .  .Minneapolis.  .  .leave 

....^ St.  Paul 

Arrive  Leave 


Mis.  I 

*ass. 

P.M. 

406 

5  50 

392 

4  52 

386 

4  35 

370 

3  49 

364 

3  34 

356 

3  12 

343 

2  30 

351 

I  30 

384 

9  SO 

335 

I  59 

326 

I  34 

3" 

[2  50 

288   ] 

10  55 

274   J 

[o  00 

267 

9  35 

261 

9  05 

255 

8  40 

240 

6  00 

213 

S  00 

212 

A.M. 

186 

175 

i6q 

166 

150 

139 

127 

116 

101 

86 

68 

S3 

42 

39 

26 

6 

Ei 

3  00 

S(2 

3  00 

P.I 

^.1 

Exp. 


M. 
40 
CO 

36 

50 
30 

OS 
20 


2  58 

2  28 

I  40 

12  20 

II  35 
II  i» 

10  45 
10  25 

9  40 


OS 
00 
20 

39 
18 
08 
22 
SO 
IS 
37 


12  50 

II  59 

II  03 

10  00 

9  25 

9  13 

8  36 

825 
8  00 
8  00 

A.M. 


TIME    TABLES. 


21 


05 
00 
20 

39 
18 
08 
22 
50 
15 
37 
50 
59 

03 
00 

25 
13 
36 

25 

00 


BOUTBS    WESTWABD. 

From  li'ew-York  to  Chicago,  via  Hudson  Eiver  Bailway, 
New- York  Central  Bailway,  Great  Western  Bailway, 
and  Michigan  Central  Bailway. 


Leave  30th  St.  and  loth  Av. 

"       Yonkers 

"      Peekskill 

•*      Fishkill 

"      Poughkeepsie 

"      Hudson 

Arrive  Albany 

Leave        "       

**      Schenectady 

"      Little  Falls 

"      Utica 

"      Rome 

"      Syra^-use 

"      Rochester 

"      Albion 

"      Lockport 

Arrive  Suspension  Bridge 
Leave  "  " 

"      Hamilton 

"      Loudon  

"      Chatham 

Arrive  Detroit 

Leave       "        

"      Ann  Arbor , 

"      Jackson 

"      Marshall 

"      Kalamazoo 

«      Niles 

•'      Michigan  City 

"      Calumet 

Arrive  Chicago 


<< 


8  00  a.m. 

8  30  " 

9  18 

9  S3 
10  30 

"  SI 

12  50  P.M. 

1  15   •* 

i( 

t( 
(( 
i( 
({ 
(( 
(( 
(( 


2  00 

3  55 

4  45 

5  " 

6  30 

9  30 

10  40 

11  32 

12  20  A.M. 
12  30 

2  IS 

5  25 

7  SO 
9  25 

10  00 

11  37 

1  00  P.M. 

2  20 

3  46 

5  13 

6  27 

8  15 

9  00  P.M 


i( 
<< 
« 

(( 
<( 


(< 
« 


II  30' 

A.M. 

12  03 

P.M. 

I  00 

I  38 

2  18 

3  52 

5  00 

6  00 

64s 

9  10 

10  10 

10  45 

12  25 

A.M. 

3  40 

4  55 

5  50 

6  40 

7  00 

9  00 

6  30  P.M.  II  00  P.M. 


t( 
<( 


8  01 

8  41 

9  25 
10  55 
12  00  night 
12   10  A.M. 

55 


3 
5 
6 


55 
45 
15 
45 
00 


10  10 

11  05 


12  40 

3  15 

5  00 

P.M. 

n 

(( 

5  45 

« 

7  35 

9  20 

10  50 

<( 

12  30 
2  40 

A.M. 

4  05 

S  45 

6  30 

A.M. 

II 

II 

I 

5 
7 
9 
9 

XI 

I 
2 
3 
5 
7 


n 
(t 
(( 

iC 

(t 
(< 
<l 

(I 

(( 
(I 

P.M. 

« 

i( 
It 
(( 


45 
55 
35 
00 

20 
00 

30 
22 

00  A.M. 
13      " 
30 
40 

13 


(« 
ti 
It 

i( 


8  48 

9  30  A.M. 


25 
17 
05 
25 

55 

7  IS 

8  00 

10  27 

11  22 

12  07 

1  40 

5  30 

6  52 

8  07 

9  00 
9  20 

11  05 

2  IS 

4  45 

6  30 

7  OS 
9  00 

10  50 

12  35 
2  10 

4  13 

5  SO 

7  30 

8  15 


A.M. 
ti 

«c 

<i 

it 

tc 

ti 

tt 

(( 

P.M. 
(i 

t( 

<i 

f< 

t( 

It 

t( 

A.M. 

it 

tt 
tt 
tt 
ft 

P.M. 

tt 

tt 
it 
tt 

P.M. 


LONG    ISLAND. 

Passengers  leave  by  James  Slip  Ferry,  or  foot  of  Thirty-fourth  street, 
East  River,  New- York,  for  Hunter's  Point  Depot,  as  follows : 

9  00  A.M.,  Mail  train  for  Greenport  and  way  stations. 
II  00    "     for  Northport  and  way-stations. 

3  00  P.M.,  Express  train  for  Riverhead,  running  through  to  Greenport  on 

Saturdays. 

4  00    "     for  Jluntingdon,  Northport,  etc. 

5  30    "     for  Farmingdale,  North- Islip,  etc. 

m^"  On  Sundays  a  train  leaves  Hunter's  Point  for  Northport  at  9.30  a.m., 
and  returns  at  3  p.m. 

Distance  from  New- York  to  Greenport,  94  miles. 


22 


TIME    TABLES. 


BOUTEB    WESTWARD. 
Erie   Bailway   and   Conneoting   Lines. 


STATIONS. 

Day 

Express. 

Express 
Rlail. 

Night 
Express. 

1 

Night 
Express. 

Emigrant. 

NhW-YORK.  .] 

L've 

7  30  A.M. 

10  00 

A.M. 

5  30   P.M. 

6  30  P.M. 

8  00  P.M. 

Jersey  City. . 
Paterson 

(C 

7  45  ;; 

10  15 

tt 

5  so  ;; 

6  50    " 

8  IS  ;; 

Arr. 

8  24    " 

II  01 

tt 

6  32     " 

•  •  •  • 

9 12  " 

Turner's 

(( 

9  29    '• 

12  25  dine. 

7  38  sup. 

8  31  sup. 

II 02  " 

Greycourt. . . . 

(( 

9  44     " 

I  OS 

P.M. 

8  15   P.M. 

•  •  •  • 

•  •  •  • 

Warwick 

(< 

10  30     " 

2  20 

(( 

a   •  •  • 

•  •  •  • 

■  •  •  • 

Newburg 

<( 

2  20 

i< 

•   •  •  • 

•  •  •  • 

•  •  •  • 

Middletown.. 

«< 

10  15     " 

I  45 

(( 

8  52    " 

•  •  •  • 

12  2q  A.M. 

Port  Jervis. . . 

K 

10  5'3     " 

2  37 

« 

938    " 

10   15    P.M. 

'  43  J* 

Susquehanna. 

(« 

2  43  dine. 

7  18 

sup. 

2  02   A.M. 

2   31   A.M. 

10  42  bkft. 

Great  Bend.. 

<( 

3  23   P  M. 

7  59 

P.M. 

2   28      " 

.... 

11   37  A.M. 

Binghamton. . 

<( 

3  49    " 

8  32 

(( 

2  59  ;; 

32s  ;; 

12   29    P.M. 

Owego 

Elmira 

(( 

4  34  ;; 

5  49     " 

9  33 
II  20 

tt 

348 

S  12     " 

4  IS 

5  31 

1 53  ;; 
4  07  * 

Corning. .   ... 
Home  Isville. 

It 

631     " 

12  35 

A.M. 

603     " 

6  21     " 

540  " 

K 

7  51  sup. 

2  II 

<( 

7  38  bkft. 

7  50  bkft. 

8  38  sup. 

Attica 

(t 

10  40    P.M. 

4  40 

{( 

10  26  A.M. 

10  26  A.M. 

3   12   A.M. 

Buffalo.... 

It 

12  GO  MID. 

6  12 

<« 

II   40      " 

II   40     " 

342      " 

Salamanca. . . . 

(( 

II    10    P.M. 

5  SO 

tt 

II    26      " 

II   26     " 

3  SO     " 

Dunkirk — 

(( 

I   35   A.M. 

8  03 

tt 

I  20  dine. 

I  20  dine. 

63s     " 

Ithaca 

(( 

6  15    P.M. 

8  80  A.M. 

8  00  A.M. 

6  15   P.M. 

Syracuse 

(( 

8  00     " 

"  35  *; 

II 35  ;; 

8  00    " 

Canandaigua. 

« 

10  00      « 

■   •  •  •  • 

10 15  " 

10  IS    " 

1000    " 

Avon 

(( 

9  57    " 

10  01  " 

ID  01  *• 

9  57  ;; 

Rochester. . . . 

C. 

10  42    " 

II  OS     " 

II  OS    « 

1042  " 

Caledonia. . . . 

c< 

1043    " 

1043    " 

LeRoy 

(( 

II  01     " 

II  01     " 

Bat  AVI  A 

(( 

II    29      " 

II  29    " 

Jamestown. . . 

(C 

II  58    " 

7  15 

tt 

II  58    " 

II  58    " 

7  15  A.M. 

Cony, 

(( 

12  55  A.M. 

8  50 

tt 

I   00    P.M. 

I   00    P.M. 

8  50    " 

Titusville 

(( 

II  10  " 

II  10 

tt 

644      " 

644      " 

11  10    '* 

Shaffer's 

(( 

II 30  " 

II  30 

tt 

70s      " 

70s      " 

II 30  ;; 

Meadville. . . . 

(( 

2   30      « 

IX  45 

tt 

235      " 

235      " 

II  45 

Franklin 

<( 

8  15     " 

2  13 

P.M. 

70s 

70s      " 

2 13 

Oil  City 

tt 

9  00  " 

2  40 

« 

7  50     ,, 

7  SO    " 

2  40  " 

Warren .. 

tt 

4  49    " 

3  15 

<( 

S06     " 

5  06    " 

3   IS    P.M. 

Cleveland. . . . 

tt 

7  00    « 

•  •  •  • 

71s     " 

7  15     "    • 

•  •  ■  • 

Cincinnati . . . 

tt 

6  20  P.M. 

•  •  •  • 

6   10  A.M. 

6   10  A.M. 

•  •  •  • 

Buffalo — 

L've 

12  05  A.M. 

6  30 

A.M. 

II  35    •• 

II  35    " 

7  45  A.M. 

Dunkirk — 

(< 

I  35     " 

8  30 

<( 

I    25    P.M. 

I   25    P.M. 

12  27    P.M. 

Cleveland... 

Arr. 

630    " 

2  OS 

P.M. 

655      " 

6  55    " 

5  00  A.M. 

Cincinnati. 

5    10    P.M. 

•  •  •  • 

6  20  A.M. 

6  20  A.M. 

S   10    P.M. 

Indi  mapolis. . 

tt 

7   GO      " 

2  so 

A.M. 

..  ..^     tt 
7  30 

730     *' 

7  00      " 

Louisville 

(( 

6   30  A.M. 

7  45 

(( 

5  00    P.M. 

5  00   P.M. 

6  30  A.M. 

St.  Louis.  . . 

(( 

10    15      " 

3  IS 

P.M. 

10  IS   ♦• 

10  IS     " 

10  IS     " 

Toledo 

« 

II    30      " 

7  40 

t( 

II  40     " 

II  40     " 

1050      " 

Detroit 

(C 

5  SO 

<< 

II  00     " 

II  00    " 

5  50  P.M. 

Chicago 

{( 

9  00    P.M. 

6  30 

A.M. 

9  30  A.M. 

9   30  A.M. 

II  45     " 

IIAILWAY    ROUTES. 


23 


NEW-YORK    TO    DENVEB. 
In  and  about  Colorado. 

From  the  Atlantic  coast  west  there  are  so  many  routes  that  the  traveler 
can  hardly  miss  a  good  one.  One  of  the  best,  however,  is  by  way  of  the 
Lake  Shore  and  Michigan  Southern  to  Chicago. 

The  route  west  from  Omaha  is  the  only  through  line  that  has  less  than 
250  miles  of  stage  travel,  and  connections  are  made  with  it  via  Chicago 
and  North-Western,  Chicago,  Burlington,  and  Quincy,  and  Hannibal  and 
St.  Joseph,  with  steamers  on  the  Missouri  River,  or  Council  Bluffs  and 
St.  Jo  Road.  Connections  will  be  made  soon  by  the  Chicago,  Rock  Is- 
land, and  Pacific  Poad. 

From  Cheyenne  to  Denver  and  Golden  City,  Wells,  Fargo  &  Co.  run  a 
first-class  daily  line  of  express  coaches.  Time,  20  hours.  Fare,  with  25 
pounds  of  baggage,  $25.  They  also  run  a  second-class  daily  line  to  Den- 
ver.    Time;  36  hours.     Fare,  with  50  pounds  of  baggage,  $10. 

The  Nye  Forwarding  Company  run  a  daily  fast  freight  line  to  Denver. 
Time,  36  hours,  carrying  passengers,  with  50  pounds  of  baggage,  at  %\o. 

From  New- York  to  Chicago 930  miles. 

"     Chicago  to  Omaha 494     ** 

"      Chicago  to  Denver 1121      " 

Time  Table. — Coaches  leave  Denver  for  the  mountains  at  6  a.m.  ;  for 
Cheyenne,  (express,)  at  7.15 ;  by  fast  freight  at  i  p.m.  ;  for  Coyote,  at  8)<^ 
A.M. ;  for  Pueblo  and  Santa  F^,  at  8  a.m.  Cars  leave  Cheyenne  for  Oma- 
ha, Chicago,  and  all  points  east,  at  7  a.m.,  Omaha  time.  Cars  leave  Coy- 
ote for  State  Line  and  St.  Louis  at  7  p.m. 


f. 

f. 
(. 
I. 

1. 


I. 


HUDSON    RIVER    AND    HARLEM    RAILWAYS. 

T'nins  for  Albany  and  Troy,  connecting  with  Northern  and  Western 
trains,  leave  New- York  via  Hudson  River  Railway,  Thirtieth  street  and 
Tenth  avenue,  8  and  11.30  a.m.,  and  3.45, 6.30,  and  ii  p.m.  ;  and  via  Har- 
lem Railway,  Twenty-sixth  street  and  Fourth  avenue,  at  n  a.m.  and 
4.35  P.M. 

The  6.30  P.M.  train,  via  Hudson  River,  will  run  on  Sundays, 

Sleeping-cars  attached  to  6.30  and  11  p.m.  trains. 

Drawing-room  cars  attached  to  8  a.m.  train. 


V/HITE   MOUNTAINS. 

TABLE  OF   f    RES. 

New- York  to  Boston,  by  cars .'..... «6  oo 

V        "boat  and  cars ^  oo 

Boston  to  Gorhatn,  N.  H.,  by  cars 5  00 

"        "boat  and  cars 500 

Gorham  to  Glen  House,  (stage,) ,  o^ 

Glen  House  to  Crawford  House,  (stage,) ^00 

"  "        North-Conway 325 

Ascent  of  Mount  Washington,  by  carriage-road,  including  toll 4  00 

"bridle-path 350 

Crawford  House  to  Littleton,  (stage,) 3  ^q 

"  "        Profile  House,  (stage,) ^00 

**  "        North-Conway,    "      .'!!  3  00 

Profile  House  to  Littleton,  (stage,) 2  00 

"       Plymouth,    "      ..'.'.'.'.'.'','.  3  00 

"  "       Wells  River,  (stage,) , 300 

Boston  to  Centre  Harbor,  via  Concord 3  50 

"       Woh    trough,      «       "        [..."sso 

Centre  Harbor  or  Wolf  borough  to  North-Conway.  (stage,) 3  64 

Boston  to  Alton  Bay,  via  Dover 2  -o 

"        Centre  Harbor,  via  Dover 3  qq 

*        Wolf  borough,      "       «        360 

"        North-Conway,  z/M!  Dover ,...640 

**        White  Mountains,  via  Dover o  oo 

"        Franconia  Mountains,  via  Dover. 13  40 

"        Crawford  House,  z/zVi  Concoid 1050 

"        Profile  House,        "         "        "!"  9  00 

"    "  • Plymouth,  (stage,) ..'  8  00 

**       Littleton,  (B.  C.  &  M.  or  N.  R.  R,) 700 

"        Plymouth ^  ^o 

**       Profile  House,  via  Northern  Railroad 9  00 

**       Crawford  House,  z'ib    "  ««        ,050 


oo 
oo 

CX) 

oo 
oo 
oo 

25 

oo 
so 
so 
oo 
oo 
oo 
oo 
oo 
so 
so 

64 

so 

90 
60 
40 
90 
40 

so 
00 
00 
00 
so 
00 

50 


RATES   OF   FARE.  25 

Boston  to  Lake  Memphremagog -g 

Waterbiiry,  Vt 

Waterbury  to  Mansfield  House  and  Summit*  House."  and  'return. ! "  *  I  « 
New- York  to  Glen  House,  via  Worcester,  Concord,  and  North- 
Conway 

New- York  to  North-Conway,  via  Worcester' and  Concord'.  !!!.'.'!!.'!„  75 
Centre  Harbor,   "  «•  «  «  ^ 

*•  Wolf  borough,      "  ««  u        o  "^ 

1  lymouth,  "  "  k  _  . 

Profile  House,  via  Worcester,    Concord,   and    Ply* 

mouth 

„  la  10 

Profile  House,  via  Worcester,  Concord,  and  Little- 
ton   

I*     ^      Crawford's,  via  Worcester,  Concord,  and  Littleton ..."  12  75 

Profile  House,  via  Connecticut  River ,  j  35 

"  Crawford's,         "  "  •« 

'  •••• ..I27< 

Profile  House,    "    Albany  and  Rutland 14  ,r 

"  Crawford's,         •«  ««  «  •   •  •  •  ^  ^a 

.    "      •    Profile  House.    "    Lake  Champlain  and  day-boats!! !  14  35 
*■  Crawford  House,  z/ia '*  *'  ««        <«  .0 

;*  Profile  House.        "    «  «  "  night-boats!  !!3  85 

Crawford  House,    "    **  "  «»  u 

"  Profile  House,      ."    »  -  u  „.  r.  ^//^\^  ^3 

mu-     «.         Crawford  House,   "    '  «  "  H.  R.  R....16  45 

White  River  Junction  to  Profile  House .60 

"        Crawford's 5  j^ 

**        Memphremagog  Lake 4x5 


23 


BATES   OP   FA.RE. 


KATES  OF  FARE  FBOM  NEW-TOBK  TO 


ist  Class. 

Atlanta,  Ga 'i^4i  oo 

Attica,  N.  Y. 8  75 

Ashland,  ( )luo 16  80 

Avon,  N.  Y.   7  8s 

Adrian,  Mich 18  75 

Agency  City,  Iowa 36  10 

Akron,  Ohio »4  85 

Alton,  111 ,.  3500 

Ann  Arbor,  Mich 1760 

Anderson,  Ind 23  75 

Appleton,  Wis. 32  55 

Ashtabula,  Ohio 13  60 

Attica,  Ind 26  45 

Aurora,  III 2655 

Atchison,  K.  T 47  70 

Austin,  Minn 39  75 

BulTalo,  N.  Y g  45 

Batavia,  N.  Y.. 8  55 

Bellefontaine,  Ohio 19  95 

Beloft,  Wis 28  45 

Berlin,  Wis 31  70 

Beaver  Dam,  Wis 30  35 

Bloomington,  111 30  60 

Brqoklyn,   Iowa 37  10 

Burlington,  Iowa 3295 

Boone,  Iowa 39  80 

Baton  Rou.t;e,via  Steamer  63  00 

Canandaigua,  N.  Y 7  75 

Canton,  Miss 53  75 

Cayuga,  N.  Y 8  50 

Caledonia,  N.  Y 8  05 

Cairo,   111 36  40 

Cedar  Falls,  Iowa 37  5° 

Cedar  Rapids,  Iowa 34  35 

Chariton,  Iowa 39  45 

Chattanooga,  Tenn 37  00 

Cheyenne 98  45 

Chicago,  111 24  95 

Chicago,  via  Buff.  &  Stm.  2a  45 

Cincinnati,  Ohio 22  40 

Clarksville,  Tenn 34  4° 

Cleveland,  Ohio. 14  95 

Clyde,  Ohio 17  40 

Columbus,  Ohio 19  45 

Columbus,  Pa.  i  <  55 

Columbus,  Miss.... 48  15 

Copper  Harbor,  Mich.,  v. 

Steamer 

Corinth,  Miss 40  75 

Corry,  Pa. 11  70 

Crestline,  Ohio 17  60 

Council  Bluffs,  Iowa....  46  45 


ist  Class. 

Dunkirk,  N.  Y ;^io  70 

Dayton,  Ohio 21  50 

Danville,  111 27  55 

Decatur,  111 3°  45 

Decatur,  Ala.. 37  75 

Delaware,  (Jhio 18  95 

Detroit,'  M ich «6  45 

Detroit,  via  Steamer 16  45 

Detroit,  via  Toledo iS  45 

Denver,  Colorado, 123  45 

Des  Moines,  low.i, 40  25 

Dixon,  111 28  85 

Dunleith,  111 3290 

Dubuque,  Iowa 33  00 

Eagle  Harbor,  Mich,  via  Stm 

Eagle  River,  Mich.,  via 

Steamer 

East- Saginaw,  Mich 19  95 

Eddyville,  Iowa 37  45 

Ellswort*^,  Kansas 63  95 

Evansville,  Ind 33  00 

Erie,  Pa 12  20 

Franklin,  Pa 13  10 

Franklin  Mills,  Ohio....   14  85 

Fairfield,  Iowa 35  50 

Fairbault,  Minn 42  15 

Flint,  Mich 18  85 

Fond  du  Lac,  Wis 37  20 

Forest,  Ohio 19  00 

Fort  Hayes,  Kansas 69  45 

Fort  Riley,  Kansas. .,,..  56  95 

Fort  Wayne,  Ind 21  25 

Freeport,  111 29  80 

Fulton,  111 30  40 

Geneva,  N.  Y 7  25 

Girard,  Pa 12  75 

Galena,  III 32  25 

Galesburg,  111 31  55 

Galion,  Ohio 17  75 

Grenada,  Miss 48  50 

Grand  Junction,  Tenn. . .  42  50 

Grand  Rapids,  Mich 21  65 

Grand  Haven,  Mich 22  60 

Green  Bay,  Wis 33  70 

Greenville,.  Pa '3  95 

Hamilton,  Ohio 22  00 

Hannibal,  Mo 35  45 

Hastings  &  Prescott,Min.  42  20 
Helena,  Ark.,  via  Steam.  48  25 

Holly  Springs,  Miss 44  00 

Horicon,  Wis 29  95 

Humboldt,  Tenn 40  25 


RATES    OP   PARE. 


21 


1st  Cla^s. 

Huntsvillc,  Ala f;^^  50 

Ithaca,  N.  Y '7  50 

Independence,  Iowa 36  00 

Indianapolis,  Iiul 2$  00 

Iowa  City,  Iowa 34^° 

Jamestown,  N.  Y 10  75 

JeflFerson,  N.  Y 723 

]  amestown,  Pa »4  35 

]  ackson,  Mich 1880 

.  ackson,  Miss 55  00 

,  ackson,  Tenn 40  25 

]  acksonville.  111 33  35 

,  anesville.  Wis 28  45 

.  efferson  City,  Mo 4243 

,  effersonville,  Ind 26  65 

,  unction  City,  Kansas. . .   57  20 

ulesburc,  Colorado 84  70 

Joliet,  111. 26  75 

Kennedy,  N.  Y 10  50 

Kalamazoo,  Mich 20  80 

Kenosha,  Wis 26  75 

Keokuk,  Iowa 34  95 

Kansas  City,  Mo 4(>  95 

Kilbourn  City,  Wis 32  45 

Kingston,  C.  VV 

La  Pointe,  Wis.,  via  Steamer  . .   . . 

Le  Roy,  N.  Y 8  25 

Lewiston,  N.  Y. 9  90 

Loudonville,  Ohio 17  10 

London,  C.  W »4  7° 

La  Crosse,  Wis 35  95 

Lafayette,  Ind 25  60 

Laporte,  Ind. 22  95 

Lake  Pepin,  Minn 40  95 

Lansing,  Iowa 35  95 

Lansing,  Mich 20  20 

La  Salle,  111 28  95 

Lawrence,  Kansas 49  7° 

Leavenworth,  Kansas...  48  30 

Lexington^  Ky 26  40 

Lima,  Ohio 19  80 

Little  Rock,  via  Steamer,  63  25 

Logansport,  Ind.. 24  15 

Louisville,  Ky.,  via  Cin. 

&  River 26  90 

Louisville,  Ky.,  viaR.  R.  26  90 

Macon,  Ga — 49  00 

Macon,  Miss.... .. ..  4860 

Madison,  Ind.,  via  Rail  & 

Steamer 25  40 

Madison,  Wis 3°  05 

Manchester,  Iowa ; .  35  10 

Mansfield,  Ohio 17  35 

Marengo,  Iowa 36  20 

Marion,  Ohio i8  50 


iBt  Claw. 

Marshall,  Mich $i<)  75 

Marquette,  Mich.,  v.  St 

Mnssillon,  Ohio 15  75 

Mattoon,  111 30  20 

Mayville,  N.  Y 1 1  40 

Meadville,  Pa 1300 

Mendota,  111 28  35 

Meridian,  Miss 52  40 

Michigan  City,  Ind 24  95 

Milwaukee,  via  Chicago,  27  95 
Milwaukee,  V.  I>.  &  M.R.  24  95 
Milwaukee,  Wis.  IJuff.  & 

Steamer... 22  45 

Millersburg,  Ohio 16  45 

Mineral  Point,  Wis 32  50 

Minnesota  Junction, Wis.  29  95 

Minneapolis,  Minn 4295 

Mobile,  Ala 56  50 

Monroe,  Mich »7  95 

Montgomery,  Ala 55  00 

Montreal,  C.  E 

Mount  Pleasant,  Iowa...  34  35 
Mount  Vernon,  Ohio. ...   18  80 

Muscatine,  Iowa 34  05 

Memph's  Tenn.,  v.  Rail,  44  25 
Memphis,  via  Steamer. . .  44  25 

Niagara  Falls,  N.  Y 9  45 

Naples,  111 33  8s 

Nashville,  via  Rail  &  St.  "t  40 
Natchez,  Miss.,  via  Rail.  50 
Natchez,  Miss,,  via  Stm.,  00  50 
Napoleon,  Ark.,  via  Stm.  52  2^ 
North-Platte,  Nebraska..  75  95 

Northfield,  Minn 42  85 

Neenah,  Wis 32  30 

Nebraska  City,  Neb 48  45 

Nevada,  Iowa 3^75 

Newark,  Ohio iS  95 

New-Castle,  Pa 15  45 

New-Orleans,  La.,  v.  Rail  63  00 
New-Orleans,  v.  Steamer  63  00 

Oswego,  N.  Y 7  45 

Ogdensburg,  N.  Y 

Oil  Springs,  or  Petrolia, 

C.  W 15  45 

Oil  City,  Pa 13  10 

Odin,  111 33  50 

Omaha,  Nebraska 46  95 

Ontonagon,  Mich.,  V.  St 

Orville,  Ohio iS  90 

Oshkosh,  Wis 31  75 

Ottawa,  111 28  35 

Oskaloosa,  Iowa 37  95 

Ottumwa,  Iowa 36  45 

Oxford  Miss 45  73 


28 


RATES    OF   FARE. 


ist  Class. 

Owatonna,  Minn $41  40 

Painesville,  Ohio 14  45 

Pana,  111 31  75 

Panama,  N.  Y. 11  20 

Pittsburg,  Pa 16  00 

Paris,  Tenn. 37  75 

Paris,  C.  W 12  80 

Penn  Yan,  N.  Y 7  50 

Peoria,  111 31  45 

Peru,  Ind 23  50 

Pella,  iowa 38  95 

Piqua,  Ohio 21  20 

Port  Sarnia,  C.  W „   iS  45 

Portage  Lake,  Mich 

Portage  City,  Wis. . . 31  75 

Prairie  du  Chien,  Wis. . .  33  95 
Prescott&  Hastings,  Min.  42  20 

Princeton,  Hi 29  25 

Quincy,  111 34  45 

Rochester,  N.  Y 7  90 

Racine,  Wis 27  10 

Randolph,  N.  Y 10  30 

Ravenna,  O. 14  35 

Reed's  Landing,  Minn...  40  45 

Red  Wing,  Minn 41  45 

Richmond,  Ind., •. ..  22  90 

Rockford,  111 28  65 

Pock  Isbnd,  111 32  2^1 

Rolla,  Mo.. 41  80 

Rome,  Ga 42  25 

Syracuse,  N.  Y 6  25 

Salina,  Kansas 60  95 

Salt  Lake  City,  Utah 238  45 

Sandusky.  Ohio .'....   17  05 

Sault  Ste.   Marie,  Mich., 

via  Steamer 

Selma,  Ala 53  40 

Shaffer's  Farm,  Pa 1295 

Sharon,  Pa 14  65 

Shelby,  Ohio 17  30 

Sidney,  Ohio ...  20  75 

Sioux  City,  Iowa 49  95 


1st  Class. 

Sparta,  Wis $34  95 

Springfield,  Ohio 20  70 

Springfield,  111 31  95 

Stephens's  Point,  Wis. . .  35  70 

Ste  .--nson,  Ala 36  50 

St.  Charles,  Mo 37  00 

St.  Joseph,  Mo 45  95 

St.  Louis,  Mo 36  00 

St.  Paul,  Minn.,  v.  Rail.  42  95 

St.  Paul,  Minn.;  v.  Stm  .  42  95 
Superior  City,  Wis.j  via 

Steamer 

Terre  Haute,  Ind 28  00 

Tiffin,  Ohio 18  05 

Titusville,  Pa 12  70 

Toledo,  Ohio 17  95 

Tolono,  111 29  CO 

Topeka,  K.  T 51  70 

Toronto,  C.  W n  95 

Urbana,  Ohio 20  25 

Vicksburg,  Miss.,  via  Rail. . .  58  00 

Vjcksburg,  via  Steamer...  5800 

Vincennes,.  Ind 30  75 

Williamsport,  Pa 7  40 

Westfield,  N.  Y 11  20 

Warren,  Ohio 14  35 

Warren,  Pa 12  70 

Wabash,  I«d.. ; 22  95 

Wamego,  Kansas 54  45 

Washington,   Iowa 35  75 

Watertown,  Wi.s 29  70 

Waupun,  Wis 30  60 

Waukegan,  111 26  20 

Weston,  Mo 48  20 

Whitewater,  Wis 29  30 

White   River,   Ark.,   via 

Steamer 52  25 

Winona,  Minn 38  45 

V/ooster,  Ohio 16  30 

Xenia,  Ohio 21  15 

Youngstown,  Ohio 15  00 

Zanesville,  Ohio 19  15 


First  Class  includes  Berths  only  on  Steamers  plying  between  Grand 
Haven  and  Milwaukee,  and  both  Meals  and  BertJis  on  other  Lake  and 
River  Steamers,  except  Lake  Ontario.  . 


RATES    OF   FAKE. 


29 


BATES  OF  FARE  VIA  GREAT  SOUTHERN  MAIL  ROUTE, 

FROM  NEW-YORK  TO 


Atlanta,  Ga. $37  iS 

Augusta,  Ga 3^  oo 

Bristol,  Tenn 24  85 

Charlottesville 14  10 

Covington 18  95 

Corinth,  Miss 36  25 

Chattanooga,  Tenn 32  00 

Columbus,  Ga 44  00 

Columbus,  Miss 48  15 

Canton,  Miss * 48  5° 

Dalton,  Ga 32  00 

Decatur,  Ala 34  5° 

Goshen 17  3° 

Gordonsville,  Va 13  iS 

Granada,  Miss 43  5° 

Grand  Junction,  Tenn 37  25 

Huntsville,  Ala 34  0° 

Holly  Springs,  Miss 38  75 


Jackson,  Miss $49  75 

Knoxville,  Tenn 3^"  5° 

Lynchburg,  Va 16  65 

Millborough 17  65 

Mobile,  Ala 5°  5° 

Macon,  Ga 40  00 

Montgomery,  Ala 47  0° 

Meridian,  Miss 46  4° 

Memphis,  Tenn 38  25 

Nashville,  Tenn 34  00 

New-Orleans,  La 53  00 

Rome,  Ga 35  25 

Richmond,  Va 1500 

Staunton,  Va 15  85 

Selma,  Ala 46  00 

Vicksburc,  Miss 5^  75 

West-Pomt,  Ga 42  iS 


THROUOH  TRAINS. 


Leave  New- York 7.30  p.m. 

"    Washington 5.50  a.m. 

"    Lynchburg 4.55  p.m. 

"    Bristol ..7.10A.M. 

"    Knoxville 2.56  P.M. 

"    Dalton 7.20  P.M. 


Leave  Chattanooga. 9.45  p.m. 

"    Grand  Junction 3.25  P.M. 

Arrive  at  Memphis 6.00  p.m. 

"      Nashville 3.30  a.m. 

"     New-Orleans — 5.35  p.m. 


I 


BOOKS  QUOTED. 


I 


Appleton's  Hand-Book  of  Northern  Travel. 

The  Canadian  Hand-Book  and  Tourist's  Guide.  ' 

Heriot's  Travels  in  Canada. 

J.  Starr  King's  White  Hills. 

Rockwell's  Catskill  Mcuatains. 

Burt's  Connecticut  River  Guide. 

Henry  Ward  Beecher's  Star  Papers. 

Nelson's  Lake  Champlain. 

Howe's  Gazetteer  of  New-York  State. 

Lippincott's  Universal  Gazetteer. 

Lossing's  Book  of  the  Hudson. 

Moorman's  Mhieral  Waters  of  the  United  States  and  Canada. 

Walling's  Route  and  City  Guides. 

Harper's  Magazine,  1858. 

New-York  Tribune,  1865. 

New-York  Gazette,  1867. 

Ithaca  and  its  Scenery. 

The  Falls  of  Taughannock. 

Sweet's  Woods  and  Waters. 


ALPHABETICAL    INDEX. 


A.— Seaside. 

B,— Springs  and  Falls. 

C— Lakes,  Rivers,  and  Mountains. 

U,— Dominion  of  Canada. 

In  looHng  for  a  place,  all  the  pages  given  should  be  re- 
ferred to,  as  the  first  is  not  always  the  most  important. 


•  %• 


Anthony's  Nose,  Mountain,  N.  Y., 

Albany,  N.  Y.,  c  17, 138. 
Alleghany  River,  c  30. 
Attica,  N.  Y.,  c  33. 
Avon,  N.  Y.,  &  25. 
Adirondacks,  c  37. 
Au  Sable  Chasm,  c  42. 
Amherst,  Mass.,  c  48. 
Alstead,  N.  11.,  <;53. 
Ascutney  Mountain,  N.  H.,  c  54. 
Androscoggin  River,  c  61. 
Androsco^in  Lakes,  c  165. 
Alton,  N.  H.,  c  61. 
Andover,  N.  H.,  c  63. 
Allentown,  Pa.,  c  89. 
Altoona,  Pa.,  c  89. 
Alton,  111.,  c  116-118.    . 
Athens,  N.  Y.,  c  127. 
Auburn,  N.  Y.,  c  136. 
Adams,  Mass.,  c  176. 
Agawam  River,  Mass.,  c  176, 177. 
Annamessex,  N.  C.,c  180. 
AsheviUe,  N.  C,  c  181. 
Aylmer,  <^  51. 
Arnprior,  d  51. 
Alumette  Lakes,  (i  52. 
Amherst,  d  59. 
Alburg  Spring,  Vt.,  &  32,  33. 
Alexandria  Bay,  d  14, 15. 


Bergen  Tunnel,  N.  J.,  c  23. 
BoiUng  Spring,  N.  J.,  c  23. 
Blue  Ridge,  c  26, 
Binghamton,  N.  Y.,  c  80. 
Buffalo,  N.  Y.,  c  33,  34, 140. 
Blood's,  N.  Y.,  c  35. 
Batavia,  N.  Y.,  c  36, 140. 
Burlington,  Vt.,  c  38,  56, 195. 
Booneville,  N.  Y.,  c  39,  41. 
Black  River,  N.Y.,c  40. 
Bellows  Falls,  Vt.,  c  45,  53. 
Brattleboro,  N.  H.,  o52. 
Bolton  Falls,  Vt.,  c  55. 
Bradford,  Vt.,  c  56. 
Burke  Mountain,  c  58.  * 

Barton  Landing,  Vt.,  o  58.    .  • 
Blandford,  Mass.,  c  60. 
Bethlehem,  N.  H.,  c  71. 
Bennington,  Vt.,  c  93,  95, 172. 
Brandon,  Vt.,  c  100. 
Barton,  Vt.,  c  103. 
Bristol,  R.  L,  a  15. 
Buttermilk  Falls,  N.  Y.,  c  10. 
Bethlehem,  Pa.,  c  88. 
Belden's  Falls,  Vt. ,  c  99. 
Byron,  N.  Y.,  c  140.  ^ 

Branford,  Ct.,  a  22. 
Bergen  Point,  N.  J.,  a  33,  37. 
Berkshire,  Mass.,  c  168, 173. 
Bridgeport,  Ct. ,  c  169.    -        • 


11 


ALPHABETICAL    INDEX. 


BaBh-Blsh  Fall,  Ct.,  c  171. 
Boncombe,  N.  C,  <?  182. 
Black  Mountain,  N.  C,  c  182. 
Burke,  N.  C,  c  182. 
Broad  River,  N.  C,  c  182. 
Buckingham,  d  48. 
Brockport,  c  141. 
Budd's  Lake,  N.  J.,  c  148. 
Bute  Mountain  Gap,  N.  C,  c  183. 
Ball's  Cave,  N.  Y.,  c  188. 
Bolton,  c  203. 
Ballston  Spa,  N.  Y.,  ft  29. 
Bath  Alum  Springs,  Ya.,  b  49 
Belfast,  Me.,  a  55. 
Bedford  Springs,  Pa.,  h  37. 
Burner's  Springs,  Va.,  b  51. 
Berkley  Springs,  Va.,  b  51. 
Blue  Lick  Springs  of  Kentucky, 

6  53. 
Baker's  Falls,  N.  Y.,  6  82. 


Croton  Point,  N.  Y.,  <?  7. 
Croton  River,  N.  Y.,  c  7. 
Cold  Spring,  N.  Y.  c  9, 11. 
Cro'  Nest,  N.  Y.,  c  10. 
Cornwall,  N.  Y.,  c  11. 
Clermont,  N.  Y.,  c  15. 
Catskills,  c  15, 18-23. 
Castleton  Bar,  c  15, 16. 
Coxsackie,  N.  Y.,  c  16, 127. 
Cascade  (Erie)  Bridge,  c  29. 
Corning,  N.  Y.,  c  30. 
Canandaigua  Lake,  N.  Y.,  c  35. 
Conesus  Lake,  N.  Y.,  c  36. 
Caledonia,  (Trout,)  c  35. 
Clinton  County,  N.  Y.,  c  37 
Chateaugay  Woods,  c  37. 
Crown  Point,  N.Y.,c  37. 
Carthage,  N.  Y.,  c  39. 
Cape  Trembleau,  N.  Y.,  c  39. 
Connc'^.ticut  Valley,  c  44;  Great 

Falls,  c  53,  59,  61,  64.      . 
Chicopee,  Mass.,  c  48. 
Camel's  Hump,  Vt.,  c  56. 
Caves :  Devil's  Den,  Vt.,  c  57. 
Coventry,  Vt.,  c  59. 
Charlestown,  N.  H.,  c  59. 
ChesterjMass.,  c 60. 
Ce:  tre  Harbor,  N.  H.,  c  61,  63, 

64. 
Coal  Mines,  Pa.,  c  80. 
Carlisle,  Pa.,  c  90. 
Chambersburg,  Pa.,  c  90. 
Clarendon  Springs,  Vt.,  c  99. 
Charleston,  Vt.,  c  103. 


Clyde  River,  (Plunket  Falls,)  c 
103. 

Copper  Harbor,  Mich.,  c  110. 

Cahokia,  111.,  c  114. 

Crow  Wing,  c  122. 

Coeymans.  N.  Y.,  c  127. 

Clinton,  N.  Y.,  c  131. 

Chittenango,  N.Y.,  c  132;  b  23, 
27 

Clyde,  N.  Y.,  c  134. 

Chili,  N.Y.,<;  135, 140. 

Cayuga,  N.  Y.,  c  137. 

Clifton,  N.  Y.,  c  138 ;  6  23,  24. 

Canandaigua,  N.  Y.,  o  138. 

Charlotte,  N.  Y.,  c  140. 

Cherry  Valley,  N.  Y.,  6  23,  28. 

Cooperstown,  N.  Y.,  6  24. 

Canader^ua    (Schuyler's)    Lake, 
5  24 ;  c  210. 

Canaan,  Ct.,  c  170, 171. 

Cummington,  Mass.,  c  176. 

Chimney  Rock  and  Falls,  N.  C. 
cl82. 

Chicoutimi,  d  39-42. 

Calvary  Mountain,  d  46. 

Carillon,  d  46. 

Chaudi^re  Falls,  Ottawa,  d  *^. 

Chats  Falls,  d  50. 

Camden,  Me.,  a  55. 

Caldwell,  N.  Y.,  c  198,  203, 204. 

Chautauqua  Lake,  N.  Y.,  c  209. 

CajTiga  Lake,  N.  Y.,  c  215. 

Croton  Lake,  N.  Y.,  c  223. 

Crooked  Lake,  N.  Y.,  c  225. 

Coney  Island,  a  38. 

Coney  Island  Plank  Road,  a  40. 

Cape  May,  a  40-43. 

Chelsea  Beach,  Mass.,  a  50. 

Cape  Neddick,  Me.,  a  51. 

Cushing's  Island,  Portland  Har- 
bor, a  53. 

Cape  Elizabeth,  Me.,  a  54. 

Castine,  Me.,  a  55. 

Cusson  Spring,  Pa.,  b  34,  35. 

Carlyle  Springs,  Pa.,  b  36. 

Cold  Sulphur  Springs,  Va.,  b  50. 

Chippewa,  N.  Y.,  6  76. 

Cobourg,  d  9. 

Cape  Vincent,  d  10. 

Clayton,  rf  14. 

Caughnawaga,  d  20. 

Caconna,  ^31. 

Cape  Rozier.  d  34. 

Cape  Trinity,  d  40. 

Cape  Eternity,  d  40. 

Cuedonia  Springs,  d  68. 


ALPHABETICAL    INDEX. 


•  •• 
111 


Dobb's  Ferry,  c  6. 
Dunderberg  Mt.,  N.  Y..  c  8. 
Deposit,  N.  Y.,c28. 
Delaware  River,  c  28,  29, 17T. 
Dunkirk,  N.  Y.,  c  31. 
Deerfield,  Mass.,  c  51,  B9. 
Delaware  Water  Gap,  77. 
Dead  Lake,  Wis.,  <;  124. 
Deal,  N.  J.,  a  5. 
Derby,  Ct.,  c  154, 168. 
Dnncannon,  Pa.,  c  179. 
Durham,  N.  C.^c  180. 
Dominion  of  Canada,  d  48. 
Deux  Joachim,  d  51^  62. 
Dorchester,  d  59. 
Dover,  N.  J.,  cl47. 
Daggar'B  Springs,  Va.,  b  50. 

Englewood,  N.  J.,  c  5.       • 
Erie  Railway,  c  23-36, 178. 
Elmira,  N.  Y.,  c  30. 
Essex  County,  N  Y.,  c  37. 
East-Hampton,  Mass.,  c  48. 
Exeter,  N.  H.,<;63. 
Easton,  Pa.,  c  88. 
Eagle  Bridge,  N.  Y.,  c  93. 
Equinox  Mountain,  Vt.,  c  96,  97. 
Elgin  Springs,  Vt.,  c  99. 
Erie  Canal,  c  125, 126. 
Eatontown,  N.  J.,  o  6. 
East-Lyme,  Ct.,  a  26. 
East-Hampton,  L.  I.,  a  32. 
Egremont,  Mass.,  c  172. 
Eastern  Provinces,  d  56. 
Eastport,  Me.,  a  60. 

Fort  Washington,  N.  Y.  City,  c  8. 
Fort  Lee,  N.  J.,  c  5. 
Font  Hill.  N.  Y.,  c  6. 
Fishkill,  N.  Y.,  c  11. 
Franklin  County,  N.  Y.,  c  37. 
Fort  Edward,  N.  Yy  c  39. 
Fall  Mountain,  N.  H.,  c  53. 
Franconia  Mountains,  c  61,  62. 
Fort  Brady,  Mich.,  c  106. 
Fort  Snelling,  c  121. 
Falls  of  Minnehaha,  c  121. 
Fonda,  N.  Y.,  c  129. 
Fort  Plain,  N.  Y.,  c  130. 
Fall  River,  R.L,  a  18. 
Fairfield,  Ct.,  a  19. 
Falls  Village,  Ct.,  c  171. 
Fortress  Monroe,  c  180. 
French  Broad  River,  N.  C,  c  182. 
French  River,  d  44. 
Fire  Island,  L.  I.,  a  44. 


Greensburg,  N.  Y.,  <?  6. 
Garrison's,  N.  Y.,  c  10. 
Greenwood  Lake,  N.  Y.,  c  25. 
Greycourt,  N.  Y.,  c  25. 
Goshen,  N.  Y.,  <■  20. 
Genesee  River,  c  30,  31. 
Gainesville,  N.Y.,c  33. 
Glenn's  Falls,  N.  Y.,  c  39, 204, 205. 
Greenfield,  Mass.,  c  51. 
Gorham,  N.  H.,  c  61,  6,3. 
Girardville,  Pa.,c83,  84. 
Gettysburg,  c  90. 
Greylock  Mountain,  Mass.,  c  92, 

93, 176. 
GrosCap.O.  P.,cl08. 
Goular's  Bay  and  Point,  c  108. 
Geneva,  N.  Y.,  c  137. 
Genesee  River,  c  140. 
Groton,  Ct.,  a  28. 
Guilford,  Ct.,  a  21. 
Great  Barrington,  Mass.,  c  172. 
Georgian  Bay,  B.  N.  A.,  c?  44. 
Grenville.O.  V.,dA%. 
Gatineau  River,  d  48. 
Gas  Port,  N.  Y.,  c  141. 
Grand  Lakes,  M.,  c  166. 
Gettysburg  Spring,  Pa.,  h  38,  39. 
Genesee  Falls,  N.  Y.,  6  61. 
Grand  Island,  Niagara,  b  75. 

Hudson  River,  c  1-18. 
Harlem  Railway,  c  1-18, 
Harlem  River,  c  3,  4. 
Haverstraw,  N.  Y.,  c8.         % 
lludson,  N.  Y.,  c  15. 
Hackensack  River,  N.  J.,  c  7,  23. 
Hornellsville,  N.  Y.,  c  30. 
Hemlock  Lake,  N.  Y.,  c  35. 
Hamilton  County,  N.  Y.,  c  37. 
Herkimer  County,  N.  Y.,  c  37,  41. 
Hartford,  Ct.,  c  44,  47. 
Holyoke,  Mass.,  c  48. 
Hatfield,  Mass.,  c  51. 
Hoosick  Tunnel,  c  51,  92. 
Hanover,  N.  H.,  c  56,  59. 
Haverhill,  N.  H.,  c  59. 
Harrisburg,  Pa.,  c  88,  89. 
Huntingdon,  Pa^  c  89, 179, 180. 
HoUidaysburg,  Pa.,  c  89. 
Hoflfman's,  N.  Y.,  c  129. 
Hydesville,  N.  Y.,  c  134.     ^    • 
Highlands  of  Navesink,  a  8. 
Hunt's  Mill,  R.  I.,  a  16. 
Housatonic  Valley,  Mass.,  c  167. 
Housatonic  River,  c  168. 


I 


IV 


ALPHABETICAL    INDEX. 


; 


Hinsdale,  Mass.,  c  177. 

High  Point,  N.  C,  c  181. 

Hawkesburg,  d  46. 

Halifax,  d  59. 

HoUey,  c  141. 

Highlands  of  New- Jersey,  c  146. 

Howe's  Cave,  Schoharie  Co.,  N. 

Y.,  c  188. 
Hampton  Beach,  N.  H.,  a  50. 
Highgate  Spring,  Vt.,  h  82. 
Hot  Springs,  Va.,  b  48. 
Healing  Springs,  Va.,  b  49. 

Irvington,  N.  Y.,  c  6,  7. 
lona  Island,  N.  Y.,  c  9. 
Indian  Reservation,  N.  Y.,  c  80, 

IM. 
Iroquois  Point,  Mich.,  c  108. 
Illinois  Town.  111.,  c  115. 
Iron  Mountains  of  Missouri,  c 

118. 
Indian  Point,  Ct.,  a  22. 
Indian  Neck  Ct.,  a  26. 
Isle  of  Shoals,  N.  H.,  a  68. 
Ithaca,  N.  Y.,  c  219. 

Jeflft-ey's  Hook,  Hudson  River, 

c8. 
John  Brown's  Tract,  c  87. 
Juniata  Valley,  c  89, 179. 
Johnstown,  N.  Y.,  c  129. 

Kingshridge,  N.  Y.,  c  4. 
Kidd's  Plug  Cliff,  N.  Y.,  c  10. 
Kin^rhook,  N.  Y.,  c  17. 
Kirkwood,  N.  Y.,  c  80. 
Keeseville,  N.  Y.,  c  37,  88,  42. 
Kittatinny  Mountain,  c  77, 78. 
Killington  Peak,  Vt.,  c  98. 
Keweenaw  Point,  Mich.,  c  110. 
Kingston,  R.  I.,  a  81. 
Kent,  Ct.,  c  169. 

Lake  Mohegan,  N.  Y.,  c  9,  206, 

207,208. 
Lake  Mahopac,  N.  Y.,  c  9. 
Lanesborough,  N.  Y.,  c  29. 
Leroy,  N.  Y.,  c  85,  86. 
Lake  Erie,  c  36. 
Lewis  County,  N.  Y.,  c  37. 
Lake  Pleasant,  N.  Y.,  c  37. 
Lake  George,  (Horicon,)  c  39, 107. 
Little  Falls,  N.Y.,c  39. 
Long  Island  Sound,  c  44. 
Lake  Memphremagog,  c  45. 
Lake  Umbagog,  Vt.,  c  58, 165. 


Lancaster,  Mass.,  c  68. 

Lake  Winnipiseogee,  c  61,  62,  68. 

Littleton,  N.  H.,  c  62,  64. 

Lancaster,  N.  H.,  c  71. 

Lehigh  River,  c  80. 

Lewistown,  Pa.,  c  89. 

Lewisburg,  Pa.,  c89. 

Lock  Haven,  c  90. 

Lake  Bombazine,  Vt.,  c  98.    . 

Lake  Austin,  Vt.,  c  98. 

Lake  Cnstleton,  Vt.,  c  99. 

Lake  Dunmore,  Vt.,  c  99.  ^ 

Lake  Superici*,  c  104,  111. 

Lake  St.  Clair,  c  105. 

Lake  Huron,  c  105 :  <2  44. 

La  Crosse,  Wis.,  c  120. 

Lake  Mendota,  Wis.,  c  123. 

Little  Falls,  N.  Y.,  c  130. 

Long  Branch,  N.  J.,  a  1. 

La  Tourette  House,  Bergen  Point, 

N.  J.,  a  33. 
Lake  Lovely,  Saratoga,  N.Y.,  b  18. 
Lake  Luzerne,  N.  Y.,  6 19;  o  220, 

221. 

Lebanon  Springs,  N.  Y.,  6  22. 

Litchfield,  Ct.,  c  170. 

Lenox,  Mafcs.,  c  174. 

Lee,  Mass.,  c  175. 

Little  Juniuta  River,  Pa.,  o  180. 

Lake  Temiscaming,  d  43. 

Lake  Nipissing,  d  44. 

La  Chine,  d  44. 

Lake  of  the  Two  Mountains,  d 
45  . 

L'Original,  <?  47. 
Lake  Saint  Mary's,  d  48. 
Lake  Matawan,  c? 51.  '.  /  • 

Lor'kport,  N.  "i.,  c  141. 
Lake  Hopatcong,  N.  J.,  c  148,149. 
Lakes  of  New- York,  c  190. 
Lake  Champlain,  c  191-196. 
Lake  Wacabac,  N.  Y.,  c  209. 
Lake  Mohensick,  N.  Y.,  c  220. 
Lake  Ontario,  d  2. 
Lewiston,  d4.  ,     .     ; 

Long  Sault,  d  18, 19. 
Lake  Saint  Peter,  d  27. 
List  of  Salmon  and  Trout  Rivers, 
d  70,  71. 

.•  . .  -  '  ■  ■  ■■• 

Maiden,  N.  Y.,  c  15.       •  . 
Monroe,  N.  Y.,  c  25. 
Middletown,  N.  Y.,  c  26.  » 

Monticello,  N.  Y.,  c26.  ' 

Mount  Marcy,  N.  i . ,  c  40. 
Mount  Mclntyre,  N.  Y.,  c  40. 


I  ^ 


ALPHABETICAL    INDEX. 


Monnt  Sanantoni,  N.  T.,  c  40. 
Mount  Golden,  N.  Y.,  c  40. 
Mount  Seward,  N.  Y.,  c  40. 
Mount  Whlteface,  N.  Y.,  c  40. 
Moose  Mountain,  N.  Y.,  c  ^. 
Moose  River,  N.  Y.,  c  40. 
Montreal  Route,  c  M. 
Magog,  c  47. 
Mount  Mansfield,  c  47,  65,  56, 155, 

156. 
Mount  Tom,  Mass.,  c  48, 
Mount  Holyoke,  Mass.,  c  48,  49, 

50. 
Monadnock  Mountain,  c  51. 
Mount  Kilbum,  N.  H.,  c  53. 
Montpelier,  Vt.  c  55. 
Mount  Pulaski,  Vt.,  c  57. 
Memphremagog,  c59, 153, 159, 160, 

161. 
Mount  Washington,  c  61,  73-77. 
Merrimack   River,  c  61,  64. 
Mifflintown,  Pa.,  c  89. 
Milton,  Pa.,  c  89. 
Mount  Anthony,  Vt.,  c95. 
Manchester,  Vt.,  c  95,  96. 
Mount  Dorset,  Vt.,  c  95. 
Mid41ebury,  Vt.,  c  99. 
Moosilauke  Mountain,  N.H.,  clOO. 
Mount  Hor,  Vt.,  c  102. 
Mississippi  River,  c  104,  114r-118, 

121. 
Munising,  Mich.,  c  109. 
Marquette,  Mich.,  c  110. 
Mound  City,  (Saint  Louis,)  c  114. 
Minnesota,  c  120. 
Madison,  Wis.,  c  122. 
Minneapolis,  c  121, 122. 
Mohawk  River,  c  126. 
Manlius,  N.  Y.,  c  131, 132." 
Manchester,  N.  Y.,  (Mormon,)  c 

183. 
Marked  Rock,  R.  I.,  a  15. 
Mount  Hope,  R.  I.,  a  15, 18. 
Medford,  L.  I.,  a  32. 
Mineral  Springs  of  N.  Y.,  b  1. 
Massena  Springs,  N.  Y.,  6  23, 25. 
Moosehead  Lake,  Me.,  c  164, 167. 
Mount  Katahdin,  Me.,  c  166, 167. 
Morgantown,  N.  C.^c  181. 
McDowell,  N.  C,  c  182. 
Montreal,  d  43. 
Madawaska  River,  d  51. 
Montmorenci,  Falls  of,  d  55. 
Moncton,  d  58. 
Maine  Coast,  a  54. 
Mount  Desert  Island,  Me.,  a  56. 


Martha's  Vineyard,  a  68,  69. 
Medina,  N.  Y.,  c  141. 
Morristown,  N.  J-i  c  147. 
Ma^ne  Forest,  c  168. 
Mammoth  Cave,  Ky.,  c  185. 
Moreau,  c  204. 
Mount  Desert  Island,  a  56. 
Missisquoi  Springs,  Vt.,  b  30,  81. 
Morristown,  d  15. 
Montreal,  d  20-26. 
Murray  Bay,  d  30. 
Metis,  d  83. 

Newport,  Vt.,  c  160, 162. 

Niagara  Falls,  N.  Y.,  6  63-74. 

Northern  Rail.vay  of  New- Jer- 
sey, c 1-18. 

New-York  City,  c  2-4. 

Neutral  Ground,  c  4. 

Neperah  River,  N.  Y.,  c  5. 

Nyack  on  the  Hudson,  c  7. 

Newburg,  N.  Y.,  c  9, 11, 12,  25. 

New-Hamburg,  N.  Y.,  c  12. 

Neversink,  N.  Y.,  c  27,  28. 

Narrowsburg,  N.  Y.,  c  29. 

Niagara  River,  c  36 ;  ft  74-81. 

New-Haven,  Ct.,  c  44. 

Northampton,  Mass.,  c  49-61,  58. 

Newbury  Springs,  Vt.,  c57. 

Northern  New- Hampshire,  c  61. 

North-Conway,  N.  H.,  c  63,  64. 

Northumberland,  N.  H.,  c  71. 

Northumberland,  Pa.,  c  89, 178. 

New- York  Central  Railway,  c  125 

Newark,  N.Y.,c  134. 

Navesink  River,  a  6,  8. 

Nauvoo,  N.  J.,  a  7. 

Newport,  R.  I.,  a  9. 

Narraganset  Bay,  a  18. 

Niantlc,  Ct.,  a  26. 

New-London,  Ct.,  a  26. 

Narraganset  Pier,  R.  I.,  a  30. 

Narrows,  N.  Y.  Bay,  a  35. 

Newtown,  Ct.,  c  167. 

Naugatuck  River  and  Road,  Ct., 
c  168. 

New-Mllford,  Ct.,  <;169. 

North-Adams,  Mass.,  c  176, 177. 

Nanticoke,  Pa.,  c  145, 178, 179. 

North-Cp.rolina,  c  180. 

Norfolk,  Va.,  c  180. 

North  River,  (Riviere  du  Nord.) 
dm. 

New-Brunswick,  d  48. 

Nova-Scotia,  d  43. 

New-Hampshire  Coast,  a  61. 


I 


: 


vi 


ALPHABETICAL    INDEX. 


New-Bedford,  Mass.,  a  65. 
Nantucket,  a  69,  70. 
Nanticcke  Falls,  c  142. 
Naugatuck,  Ct.,  c  152. 
Nahant,  Mass.,  a  49. 

Oskewanna  Lake,  N.  Y.,  c  9,  208. 
Orange  County,  N.  Y.,  c  25. 
Otisville,  N.  Y.,  c  27. 
Owego,  N.  Y.,c30. 
Clean,  N.Y.,c  30. 
Oneida  County,  N.  Y.,  c  41. 
Ogdensburg.  N.  Y.,  c  41,  d  16. 
Orford,  N.H.,  c59. 
Otter  Creek,  vt.,  c  98,  99. 
Ontonagon,  Mich.,  c  104. 
Oneida,  N.  Y.,  c  131. 
Onondaga,  N.  Y.,  c  133,  134. 
Onondaga  Lake,  o  21,  24. 
Oswego,  N.  Y.,  c  133,  b  22. 
Oceanville,  N.  J.,  a  6. 
Otsego  Lake,  N.  Y.,  6  24,  c  178. 
Ottawa  River,  d  42. 
Ottawa  City,  d  48. 
.Osceola  Lake,  N.  Y.,  c  208. 
Owasco  Lake,  N.  Y.,  c  226. 
Oak  Orchard  Acid  Springs,  N.  Y., 

6  27. 
Ohio  White  Sulphur  Springs,  b  53. 

Piermont  Railway,  c  1-18. 
Palisades,  c  5, 6,  23. 
Piermont,  N.  J.,  c  6. 
Pocanteco  River,  N.  Y.,  c  7. 
Peekskill,N.  Y.,c8,9. 
Poughkeepsie,  c  13. 
Paterson  and  Passaic  Falls,  N.  J., 

c  24,  682. 
Potague  Lake,  N.  J.  c  24. 
Port  Jervis,  N.  Y.,  c  28. 
Portage  Bridge,  N.  Y.,  c  31. 
Platt9t)urg,  N.  Y.,  c  37,»40,  195, 

d43. 
Port  Kent,  N.  Y.,  c  37,  42, 193. 
Potsdam,  N.  Y.,  c  40. 
Prospect,  N.  Y.,  c  41. 
Perciefield  Falls,  c  43. 
Passumpsic  River,  c  58. 
Pemigewasset  River,  c6l,  64. 
PljTnouth,  N.  H.,  c  62,  64. 
Pottsville,  Pa.,  c  8U  82. 
Pennsylvania  Coal  Region,  c  80. 
Port  Carbon  Landing,  Pa.,  c  8% 
Poultney,  Vt.,  c  97. 
Peach  Lake,  N.  Y.,  c  209. 
Penobscot  River,  a  56. 


Port  Hope,  d  8. 

Presque  Isle  Bay,  d  9. 

Prescott,  0?  17. 

Point  Cardinal,  d  18.    ' 

Parisien  Is.,  c  108. 

Pictured  Rocks,  c  100. 

Pilot  Knob,  c  119. 

Palatine  Bridge,  N.  Y.,  c  130. 

Palmyra,  N.Y.,c  135. 

Pleasure  Bay,  N.  J.,  o  6. 

Providence,  R.  I.,  a  15. 

Portsmouth  Grove,  R.  I.,  a  16. 

Patchogue,  L.  I.,  a  32. 

Perth  Amboy,  N.  J.,  a  35. 

Pittsfield,  Mass.,  c  168, 175. 

Plainfleld,  Mass.,  c  176. 

Pennsylvania,  c  177. 

Pilot  Mountain,  N.  C,  c  181. 

Pisgah,  N.  C,  c  182. 

Polk,  N.  C,  c  182. 

Point  Fortune,  c?  46.  ' 

Pemachnnga  Lake,  d  48. 

Prince  Edward's  Island,  d  48. 

Provinces  of  Canada,  d  48. 

Pembroke,  d  51,  62. 

Portsmouth,  N.  H.,  a  61. 

Quebec,  c  44,  <?  52. 

Quarantine,  New- York  City,  a  35. 

Rockland  Lake,  c  7. 
Rondout,  N.  Y.,  c  14. 
Rhinebeck,  N.  Y.,  c  14. 
Ramapo  River,  N.  J.,  c  24. 
Reservation,  Indian,  N.  Y.,  c  80 
Racket  Lake,  N.  Y.,  c  37,  41,  43. 
Rouse's  Point,  N.  Y.,  c  37, 196. 
Reading,  Pa.,  c  89. 
Rutland  and  Burlington  Railway, 

c93. 
Rutland,  Vt.,  c  98. 
Richfield  Springs,  N.  Y.,  c  130,  b 

23  24. 
Rome,  N.  Y.,  c  131. 
Rochester,  N.  Y.,  c  138. 
Red  Bank,  N.  J.,  «  9. 
Rocky  Point,  R.  I.,  a  15,  28. 
Rhode  Island,  R.  I.,  a  18. 
Raleigh,  N.  C,  c  180. 
Rutherford  County,  N.  C,  c  182. 
Riviere  du  Nord,  (North  River.) 

d  46. 
Rivi^rr;  du  Lievre,  <?  48. 
River  Gatineau,  <?  48. 
Rideau  River,  d  40. 
River  Madawasl  a,  d  51. 


S^"5i 


n'iTT-  ri  iiiiiii 


ALPnABKTICAL    INDEX. 


Vll 


Rye,  N.  H.,  a  64. 
River  Isoul,  c  190. 
Rockaway  Beach,  L.  I.,  rt  43. 
Red  Sulphur  Springs,  Va.,  b  47. 
Rockbridge  Alum  Springs,  Va., 

6  49. 
Rockbridge  Baths,  Va.,  h  50. 
Rawley's  Springs.  Va..  h  51. 
River  Saint  Maurice,  d  28. 
Riviere  du  Loup,  d  30. 
Rimouski,  d  33. 

Spuyt  den  Duyvel  Cre^k,  c  4. 
Sleepy  Hollow,  1.  Y.,  c  7,  20. 
Sunnyside,  N.  Y.,  c7. 
Sing  Sing,  N.  Y.,  c  7. 
Stony  Point,  N.  Y.,  c  8. 
Saugerties,  N.  Y.,  c  14. 
Sullivan  County,  N.  Y.,  c  26. 
Shawangunk  Ridge,  N.  Y.,  c  2T. 
Susquehanna  River,  c  29,  89, 177, 

179. 
Starucca  (Erie)  Viaduct,  c  29. 
Salamanca,  N.  Y.,  c  80, 
Saint  Lawrence  County,  N.  Y., 

c37. 
Saranac  Region,  N.  Y.,  c  37, 43. 
Saint  Regis  Woods,  c  37. 
Saratoga  Springs,  c  39. 
Springfield,  Mass.,  c  44,  47,  60. 
Stowe,  Vt.,c47,  55.  56. 
Sugar-Loaf  Mountain,  Mass.,  c51. 
Saint  Alban'^  Vt.,  c  56. 
Saint  Johnsbury,  Vt.,  c  58. 
Saco  River,  c  61,  63,  64. 
Stratford,  Ct.,  a  19,  c  168. 
Savin  Rock,  Ct.,  a  21. 
Sachem's  Head,  Ct.,  a  23. 
Stonington,  Ct.,  a  28. 
South-Kingston,  R.  I.,  a  30. 
Sag  Harbor,  L.  \'a  32. 
Staten  Island,  N.  Y.,  a  35. 
Saratoga  Sprinais,  h  1. 
South-Argyle,  N.  Y.,  &  13. 
Saratoga  Lake,  h  13, 17. 
Shaker  Community,  N.  Y.,  6  22. 
Sharon,  N.Y.,  6  23. 
Stockport,  N.  Y.,  6  23. 
Schuyler's  (Canaderaja)  Lake,6  24. 
Sharon,  Ct.,  c  170. 
Salisbury,  Ct.,  c  170, 171, 172. 
South-Egremont,  Mass.,  c  172. 
.Stockbridge,  Mass.,  c  172, 173. 
Saddle-Back  Mountain,  Mass.,  c 

176. 
Shickshinny,  Pa.,  c  178, 179. 


Salem,  N.  C.,<?  181. 
Statesville,  N.  C,  c  181. 
Salt  Sulphur  Springs,  Va.,  ft  46. 
Sweet  Springs,  Va.,  h  48. 
Stribling's  Sprinjjs,  Va..  6  51. 
Shannondale  Springs,  Va.,  ft  51. 
St.  Lawrence  River,  d  1-35. 
Sackett's  Harbor,  d  10. 
Sas;uenay  River,  d  35-43. 
Saint  Leon  Springs,  d  69. 
Saint  Catherine  Springs,  d  68. 
Steamboat  Routes  in  Canada,  d 

71,  72. 
Salisbury,  N.  C.,cl81. 
Swannanoa  River,  N.  C,  cl83. 
Sinville  Falls,  N.  C,  c  82. 
Saint  John's  Bay,  d  42. 
Sainte  Anne,  d  45. 
Saint  Eustache,  d  46. 
Saint  Benoit,  d  46. 
Saint  Scholastique,  d  46. 
Saint  Andrew's,  d  46. 
Saint  John,  58,  65. 
Stamford,  Ct.,  a  71,  72,  73. 
Susquehanna  River,  c,  143. 
Seneca wana  Lake,  N.  Y.,  c  148. 
Schooley's  Mountain,  N.  J.,cl51. 
Sebago  Pond,  Me.,  c  166. 
Shoreham,  N.  Y.,  c  193. 
Sabbath-Day  Point,  c  199. 
Seneca  Lake,  N.  Y.,  c  211. 
Swampscott,  Mass.,  a  45-48. 
Salem,  Mass,  a  48. 
Saco  Pool,  Me.,  a  53. 
Sweet  Chalybeate  Springs,-  Va., 

ft  44. 
Schuylkill  Region,  c  81,  83. 
Snnbury,  Pa.,  c  89. 
Saint  Alban's,  Vt.,  c  100. 
Saint  Paul,  Minn.,  c.  104, 120, 121, 

133. 
Superior  City,  Mich.,  c  104, 110. 
Saint  Mary's  River,  Mich.,  c  105. 
Sault  Sainte  Marie,  c  105-103. 
Saint  Louis,  c  111. 
Shepherd  Mountain,  Mo.,  c  119. 
Saint  Croix,  Wis.,  c  121. 
Stillwater,  Mich.,  c  131. 
Saint  Cloud,  Minn.,  c  122. 
Schenectady,  N.  Y.,  c  128. 
Saint  Johnsville,  N.  Y.,  c  130. 
Syracuse,  N.  Y.,  c.  133,  ft  21. 
Savannah,  N.  Y.,  c  134. 
Skaneateles,  N.  Y.,  c  136. 
Seneca  Falls,  N.  Y.,  c  137. 
Shark  River,  N.  J.,  a  5. 


I  I 


vlii 


ALPHABETICAL    INDEX. 


Ml 


Shrewsbury  and  River,  N.  J.,  a 

\  6,  9. 
Seekonk  River,  a  16. 
Seeconnet,  R.  I.,  a  17. 

Tappan  Zee,  c  5,  6. 
Tappan  VillageLN.  Y.,  <;  6. 
Tarrvtown,  N.  i.,  c  6,  7. 
Tlvoli.N.  Y.  cl4. 
Troy,  N.  Y.,  c  18, 138. 
Tamer'B,  N.  J.,  c  24,  26. 
Tahawus,  c  40. 
Trenton  Falls,  N.  Y.,  c  41,  124, 

181,  b  54-60. 
Tapper's  Lake,  N.  Y.,  c  48. 
Tonquamenon  Bay,  c  108. 
Tribes'  Hill,  N.  Y.,  c  129. 
Tiverton,  R.  I.,  a  18. 
Tottenville,  N.  Y.,  a  85. 
Taconic  Mountains,  Mass.  and  N. 

Y.,  c  168. 
Tryon  Mountain,  N.  C,  c  182. 
Tadoussac,  d  31-33,  42. 
Thurso,  d  48, 

Thirty-one-miles-long  Lake,  c7  48. 
Timber-slides  in  Canada,  d  50. 
Taghkanic,  N.  Y.,  c  217-219. 
Toronto,  d8. 

Ulster  County,  N.  Y.,  c  26. 
Utica,  N.  Y.  c39,41, 130. 
Umoagog  Lake,  Introduction. 

Vernon,  c  51. 
Vergennes,  Vt.,  c  99. 
Verona,  N.  Y.,  c  131. 
Vallonia  Springs,  N.  Y.,  6  29. 
,  Vermont  Spring,  b  32. 
Virginia  Springs,  b  41. 
Vanity  Springs,  Ya  ,  6  50. 

Washington  Heights,  N.  Y.  City, 

c2,  3. 
West-Point,  c  9, 10. 
Walden,  N.  Y.,  c  26. 
Warwick  Woodlands,  N.  Y.,  c  26. 
Warsaw,  N.Y.,c  33. 
Wethersfleld  Springs,  N.Y.,  c.  83. 
Warren  County,  NT  Y.,  c  87. 


Westport,  N.  Y.,  c  88. 

White  Mountains,  Routes,  c  41, 

45,  61-65. 
White  River  Junction,  Vt.,  c  45, 

54,  55. 
Waterbury,  Vt.,  c  47. 
Whately,  Mass.,  c  51. 
Windsor  and  Wethersfleld,  N.  H., 

c  54, 69. 
Waterbury,  Vt.,  c  55,  66. 
Wells  River,  Vt.,  c  57. 
Willoughby  Lake,  Vt.,  c  58, 101. 
Walpole.N.  H.,c59. 
Weirs,  N.  H.,  c  61,  63. 
Wolf  borough,  N.  H.,  c  63. 
Waumbeck  House,  N.  H.,  c  72. 
Williamsport,  Pa.,  c  90. 
Williamstown,  Mass.,  c  91, 172. 
Warren,  N.  H.,  c  100. 
Westmore,  Vt.,  c  101. 
Winona,  Minn.,  c  121. 
Wisconsin,  c  125. 
Warren,  R.  I.,  a  15. 
Winsted,  Ct,  c  171. 
Westfleld  River,  Mass.,  c  176. 
Wyoming  Valley,  c  142, 178. 
Weldon.  N.  C,  c  180. 
White-Fish  Lake,  O.  P.,  d  48. 
Wolfville,  d  67. 
Westchester  Mountain,  d  67. 
Windsor,  d  68. 
Wyoming  Falls,  c  142. 
Wilkesbarre,  Pa.,  cl46. 
Winsted,  Ct.,  c  163.        , 
Waterbury,  Ct.,  c  154. 
Woodstock,  Ct.,  c  165. 
Winooski  Valley,  Vt.,  c  157, 158. 
Whiteside  Mountain,  N.  C,  cl88. 
Whitehall,  N.  Y.,  c  192 
Watkins  Glen,  N.  Y.,  c  211,  212. 
Wells,  Beach,  Me^  a  51. 
White  Sulphur   Springs,  Va.,  ft 

42,43. 
Warm  Springs,  Va.,  ft  48. 

Yonkers,  N.  Y.,  c  6. 
Yellowstone  River,  c  116. 
Yellow  Springs,  Va.,  ft  62. 


MEMORANDA. 


??" 


MEMORANDA. 


lailit  PuBBtr©  ItlS© 

SALISBXTRY,  VT. 

!•    ©•    rrE'MlFJLtl^,   Proprietor, 


The  above  House  is  now  open  for  the  reception  of  families 
and  tourists.  Cars  stop  at  Brandon,  Vt.,  where  coaches  are 
ready  to  convey  passengers  to  the  House. 


GXSLSTonr  house:, 

Goodspeed's  Landing, 

Handsomely  situated  on  the  Connecticut  river,  easy  of  access  by 
Hartford  Steamers  from  Peck  Slip,  at  4  o'clock  p.m.  daily,  or  by 
railroad  and  steamboat,  via  Middleto^n  or  Hartford, 

Sunday  night  boat  to  New-York  this  season. 

House  repainted,  rooms  large  and  airy,  good  table,  and  reason- 
able prices  ;  no  mosquitoes  ;  good  riding,  sailing,  and  fishing. 

H.  H.  SQUIRES,  Superintendent 

GooDSPEBD^s  Landing,  Ct.  For  the  Gelaton  Motel  Co 

INTERNATIONAL   HOTEL, 

NIAGARA   FALLS,  N.  Y. 


2^ts  Itorge  and  Elegant  Hblet  hag  superior  accotnmoiia- 
iions  for  six  hundred  guests 

It  is  the  largest  and  most  complete  Summer  Hotel  in  the 
country.  v 

BOA.R,r>     REDUCED. 


J.  T.  PULTON,  Proprietor. 


Hi 


SPRING  HOUSE, 

Vallonia  Springs,  Broome  County,  N.  T, 

JEROME  B.  SANDS,  Proprietor, 

These  Springs  have  long  been  celebrated  for  their  Pro- 
phylactic and  Medicinal  properties.  Being  located  in  the 
midst  of  wild  and  striking  scenery,  within  one  mile  of  the 
far-famed  valley  of  the  beautiful  Susquehanna,  the  forests 
abounding  with  game  and  the  streams  filled  with  fish,  they 
present  features  of  interest  to  a  larger  class  of  those  seeking 
a  summer  resort  than  any  other  of  the  many  noted  resorts 
in  the  country.  And  while  soliciting  the  patronage  of  those 
in  pursuit  of  health  or  pleasure,  the  Proprietor  feels  confi- 
dent of  his  ability  to  give  satisfaction  to  his  guests. 

Passengers  leaving  Albany  by  the  morning  train  on  the 
Albany  and  Susquehanna  Railroad  connect  with  the  stage 
at  Afton,  and  arrive  at  the  Spring  House  in  time  for  dinner. 

mmim  vatuv  HotEtt 

WILKESBARRE. 
"WTATID  &  CO.,  Proprietors. 


•♦• 


This  house,  for  beauty  of  situation,  is  unsurpassed  in  this 
country,  and  has  a  combination  of  all  the  modern  improve 
ments  found  in  city  hotels.  It  is  magnificently  furnished 
throughout,  and  has  accommodation  for  200  guests. 

Spacious  Balconies  command  a  view  of  the  charming 
Valley  of  Wyoming,  while  the  Susquehanna  glides  beneath, 
and  is  visible  for  miles  on  either  side.  The  Drives  and  op- 
portunities for  Sailing,  Rowing,  and  Fishing  are  excellent, 
and  the  Proprietors  will  spare  nothing  in  order  to  make  it 
one  of  the  most  delightful,  as  well  as  fashionable,  places  of 
resort  in  the  country. 


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PLATTSBURGH,  N.  Y. 


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This  Hotel  is  particularly  desirable  for  a  Summer  resort. 
Situated,  as  it  is,  upon  the  banks  of  JLahe  Chaniplain, 
its  broad  piazzas  offer  beautiful  views  of  Cumberland  Bay — 
celebrated  as  the  scene  of  the  Naval  Engagement  of  1814 
— while  from  the  promen?de  on  the  roof  a  fine  view  can  be 
obtained,  including  the  villagb,  the  surrounding  country, 
and,  in  the  distance,  the  Green  Mountains  and  the  Adiron- 
dacks ;  which,  together  with  the  pure  water,  the  beautiful 
flower,  pleasure,  and  croquet  grounds,  the  pleasant  drives, 
the  spacious  and  well-ventilated  rooms,  offer  attractions  to  the 
seeker  after  health  and  pleasure  that  can  not  be  surpassed. 

A  new  and  spacious  Liveiit-Stable  will  be  opened  in 
connection  with  the  Hotel  on  the  first  of  June,  which  will 
afibrd  ample  accommodations  to  persons  wishing  to  bring 
with  them  their  horses  and  carriages. 

A  Steam-Ferry  will  make  daily  trips  between  Plattsburgh 
and  St.  Albans  Bay,  passing  between  North  and  South  Hero 
Islands,  touching  at  the  best  fishing  localities  there  are  to  be 
found  on  Lake  Champlain. 

Sportsmen  en  route  for  the  Adirondacks  will  find  private 
conveyances  at  Plattsburgh  to  take  them  to  Paul  Smith's, 
Milote  Baker's,  Martin's,  Virgil  Bartlett's,  and  other  forest 
resorts,  n-t  as  low  rates  as  are  offered  on  any  other  route. 

Early  next  autumn  a  Railroad  will  be  completed  from 
Plattsburgh  twenty  miles,  en  route  to  the  Adirondacks^ 
which  will  enable  sportsmen  to  reach  the  hunting  and 
fishing  localities  of  the  Wilderness  at  much  lower  rates  and 
with  greater  facility  than  is  now  offered  by  any  route. 


I 


>i 


Mf^ 


BALLSTON  SPA,  N.  Y. 


-♦♦♦- 


G-EORaE  SMITH  Proprietor. 

GEORGE  BRIGGS,  Assistant. 


-♦♦-•- 


This  well-known  and  popular  establishment  has  recently 
been  reopened  to  the  public.  No  expense  has  been  spared 
to  put  it  in  fine  order  as  a  first-class  Hotel.  It  will  be  found 
complete  in  all  its  appointments,  and  it  is  designed  to  give 
it  superior  attractions  to  the  public  generally. 

Guests  will  find  ample  accommodations,  cheerful  enter- 
tainment, and  all  desirable  luxuries.  Patronage  is  solicited, 
and  e\3ry  effort  will  be  made  to  merit  it. 

The  Proprietor  has  had  long  experience  as  a  landlord,  and 
flatters  himself  that  he  has  not  failed  in  giving  satisfaction 
to  those  who  have  temporarily  made  their  home  at  the  sev- 
eral houses  he  has  heretofore  had  in  charge.  Old  friends  and 
acquaintances  are  cordially  invited  to  call  upon  him  at  his 
new  location,  where  he  hopes  to  render  a  sojourn  pleasant 
and  delightful.  New  customers  will  also  have  every  atten- 
tion paid  to  their  comfort  and  enjoyment.  Try  the  Old  Sans 
Souci. 


I 


THE  HOSFORD  HOUSE, 

Richfield  Springs,  N.  Y., 

Now  open  for  tho  season,  pleasantly  situated  between  the 
American  and  Spring  Hotels,  having  been  enlarged  and 
newly  furnished,  can  accommodate  about  twenty  additional 
families.  Accommodations  and  table  first-class,  and  terms 
reasonable.    Address  M.  K.  HOSFORD, 

JtlcJifield  Springs,  JNT.  T. 


LA  TOURETTE  HOUSE, 

Bcrg-en.    I?oiiit:,    !IV.   J. 

This  delightful  summer  resort  is  now  open  for  guests. 
Its  easy  access  to  the  city  makes  it  peculiarly  desirable  for 
persons  doing  business  in  New- York — distant  only  30  min- 
utes by  Central  Railroad  of  New-Jersey.  Trains  every  hour, 
and  steamboats  Bed  Jacket,  foot  Liberty  Sireet,  and  Thomas 
P.  Way,  Barclay  Street,  four  times  daily.    All  the  vegetables 

used  are  raised  on  the  farm  attached. 

J.  G.  ABMOVR. 

AQUIDNECK   HOUSE, 

NEWPORT, 

The  above  House  is  open  for  the  season.  Very  desirable 
Buites  of  rooms  not  yet  engaged.  Also,  suites  in  cottages 
near,  with  board  at  the  Aquidneck.    Apply  as  above  to 

WILLIAM   HODGES. 


;l)i    ;• 


I 


UNITED  STATES  HOTEL, 

Long    Branch,   N.   J., 

HVXl^JLt    OI»Xi:iV    JUIVE    15,    1S08. 

S.  LAIRD,  Ppoppietop. 

WHITE   LAKE, 

Sullivan  County,  N.  Y., 

Now  open  to  receive  guests.    The  house  is  new  and  newly 

furnished. 

N.   «J.   I*OTTS,   Proprietor. 

MAIVrSIOIV   HOUSEy 

Long  Branch,  JV*  J., 

"WILL   OPEN  JUNE   1,    1868. 
S.  LAIRD,  Proprietor. 


Long   Branchy   N.  J., 


OI^EISr    JXJOVE     IS,    1808. 


COOPER  &  LAIRD,  Proprietors. 


WHITE   SULPHUR   SPRINGS, 


JVJEAB   CARLISLE,   PA. 


-♦-♦^ 


Thi8  popular  Summer  Resort  will  bo  opened  for  the  recep- 
tion of  visitors  on  the  First  of  June.  The  proprietor 
takes  pleasure  in  tendering  his  thanks  to  his  numerous  visit- 
ors during  the  last,  and  respectfully  solicits  their  patronage 
and  encouragement  in  the  season  approaching.  Ho  promises 
his  best  efforts  to  make  his  guests  happy  and  comfortable 
during  their  sojourn  with  him. 

These  Springs  are  located  in  the  county  of  Cumberland, 
Pa.,  four  miles  from  Carlisle.  Carlisle  may  be  reached 
from  all  quarters  by  the  Cumberland  Valley  llailroad,  from 
whence  passengers  will  be  conveyed  to  the  Springs  in  Omni- 
buses or  Carriages,  which  will  be  in  waiting  on  the  arrival 
of  each  train  of  cars,  at  reasonable  charges. 

The  Springs  are  located  at  the  base  of  the  Blue  Mountain, 
in  a  fertile  and  beautiful  valley.  The  buildings  are  large 
and  commodious,  and  admirably  adapted  to  the  comfort  of 
guests.  They  are  being  repaired  and  renovated  thoroughly, 
and  will  be  in  complete  order  by  the  period  of  the  opening. 

Through  the  valley  are  fine  roads,  affording  pleasant 
drives,  or  equestrian  exercise,  if  that  be  preferred — Horses 
and  Carriages  being  always  at  the  command  of  visitors.  The 
Canodoguinnet  Creek,  a  fine  stream  of  water,  is  within  a  few 
miles  of  the  Springs,  and  affords  fine  fishing  for  those  in- 
clined to  that  kind  of  sport. 

The  waters  of  the  Springs  possess  peculiar  healing  quali- 
ties, and  many  a  weak,  debilitated  person  has  been  restored 
to  health  and  vigor  through  their  healing  influence. 

The  public  are  cordially  invited  to  visit  the  Springs  during 
the  approaching  season.  Every  eftbrt  will  be  made  to  render 
visitors  comfortable  and  happv. 

TERMS-$2.50  per  Day,  or  $!0  per  Week. 

W.  G.  THOMPSON, 

Of  tJie  State  Capitol  Hotel,  Earrisburgh^ 

Proprietor, 
j.  p.  harris,  suterintendent. 


I 


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SE^SIDK;     SEikSOIV     OIT      ISO®, 


-•-•♦- 


Watch  Hill  Point,  Westerly,  Rhode  Island, 

Situated  on  the  Extreme  South-Western  Shore  of  the  State^ 
Three  Miles  from  Stonington,  Ct. 


-•♦•- 


TnB  Plimpton  House  will  rcOpen  for  its  Third  Season  about  the 
middle  of  Juno.  This  is  a  new  House,  built  by  the  proprietors  in 
1866.  The  Location  is  on  high  ground,  the  Rooms  arc  large,  airy,  and 
pleasant,  and  the  Accommodations  are  flrat-class.  The  Beach  is  a  very 
fine  one :  the  Bathing  Beach  is  not  surpassed  on  the  coast,  possessing 
a  fine  surf,  without  undertow,  and  having  nearly  a  hundred  bathing- 
houses— is  within  live  minutes'  walk  of  the  Plimpton  House. 

Watch  Hill  Point,  it  is  said  by  tourists,  is  the  coolest  place  on 
the  New-England  coast ;  water-view  to  the  east,  south,  and  west,  with 
a  fine,  cool,  exhilarating  sea-breeze  at  all  times.  The  Fishing-grounds 
are  within  a  few  minutes'  sail  off  the  Point.  Excellent  boatmen  are 
ready  at  all  times  to  take  parties,  large  or  small,  for  sailing  on  one  of 
the  finest  r  "*  bays  for  the  purpose. 

Parties  from  the  West  or  South  seeking  the  New-England  seashore 
will  find  this  place  the  easiest  of  access,  as  this  is  the  first  place  be- 
tween New- York  and  Narragansett  Bay  where  surf-bathing  can  be 
found.  Hallway  routes  from  the  North,  South,  East,  and  West  connect 
with  the  Shore  Line  Eailway,  and  by  steamboats  from  New-York  to 
Stonington  or  New-London.  Stop  at  Stonington  and  take  steamers  or 
sailboats  for  Watch  Hill— time  thirty  minutes— connecting  with  all 
trains. 

A.  S.  PLIMPTON  &  CO. 


Tiimpion  Mousey   yVaich  Sill  Tointy  H,  7*. 


CO. 


KEESEVILLE,  N.  Y. 


® 


•  •• 


Tnis  House  is  now  in  first-class  condition  for  the 
Summer  business  of  1808.  Tlie  grounds  have  been 
improved;  desirable  additions  made  to  the  furnituiv  of 
the  establishment ;  and,  with  spacious  and  aiuy  ruous, 
pleasant  surroundings,  and  prompt  attendance, 

The  Traveler  Seeking  Health  or  Pleasure 

Avill  find  an  agreeable  and  comfortable  resting-place, 
and  the  Season  Boarder  all  the  attractions  that  could 
reasonably  be  desired. 

The  Drives  in  the  immediate  vicinity  possess  the 
greatest  attractions,  the  mountain  and  rural  scenery 
being  unsurpassed  by  that  of  any  locality  in  the  State. 

STAGES 

Always  in  readiness  at  Port  Kent,  Lake  Champlain, 
to  carry  Passengers  to  this  House. 

PARTIES  WISHING  TO  VISIT  THE 

GREAT  CHASM    OF   THE    AUSABLE, 

THE   SARANAC    SPORTINQ   GROUNDS,    OR    WHITE-FACE    MOUNTAIN, 


Will  be  furnished  with  appropriate  conveyance  on  reasonable 
terms.     Ample  accommodations  for  Private  Carriages. 

D.  S.   GUTTING,   Proprietor. 


;    1 


I 


SARATOGA. 


9 


$4.50  per  day ;  $28  per  week ;  $100  for  four  weeks. 

Superior  accommodations  for  families  and  gentlemen.  Bag- 
gage-master and  omnibuses  at  Station  on  arrival  of  trains. 
Address  LELAND  BROTHERS,  or 

s.  x.Er.A.]>ri>  &>  CO., 

Metropolitar.  Hotel,  New-Tork. 


COLUMBIA  SPRINGS  HOUSE, 


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.¥. 


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The  water  is  white  sulphur,  universally  regarded  equal  to 
any  in  the  State. 
Fine  air  and  beautiful  grove. 

C.  B.  NASH. 


ill  . 


9 


Will  open  for  the  Season  June  15.   • 

The  house  has  been  refurnished  in  the  most  comfortable 
style.  Accommodations  and  table  first  class.  Take  New- 
York  Central  trains  from  Albany  to  Palatine  Bridge. 

ANDREAS   WILLMANN, 

Proprietor, 


WHITE    MOUNTAINS. 


LI 


iii 


J.  iM.  TH:o3j:r»soiv  &  co.. 


PROPRIETORS. 


r. 


COA.L  HEaioisrs, 

Scranton,  Pa. 

WIOMIIO 


S.  M.  Iff  ASH, 

Proprietor. 


DELAWARE  WATER-GAP. 

Kittatinny  Honse. 

PROPRIETOR.      . 
Room   for  400   Guests. 


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A    NEW    HOTEL, 


Edgetvater,  Staten  Island, 

(First  landing  from  foot  of  Broadway,)  opens  Wednesday,  July 
1st,  on  the  European  plan,  with  all  the  conveniences  of  a 
city  hotel.  Communication  with  New-York  every  30  min- 
utes over  the  finest  sail  in  the  world.  House  five  minutes' 
walk  from  Tompkinsville  landing.  Carriages  always  in 
attendance. 


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nVew-I^ochelle^ 


NEW- YORK, 

Is  now  open  for  the  season.  Persons  wishing  to  engage 
rooms  can  make  arrangements  at  the  Clifibrd  House,  1242 
Broadway. 


WW 


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STONINGTON,    GT. 

This  House  will  be  opened  for  the  season  about  the  20th 
of  June,  and  will  be  conducted  as  a  first-class  family  hotel. 

Having  all  the  advantages  of  BATHmG,  Fishing,  and 
Sailing,  with  pleasant  Drives  and  good  Stabling,  it  is 
one  of  the  most  attractive  Summer  Resorts  on  the  coast. 
Plans  of  the  house  can  be  seen"  at  the  office  of  C.  P.  Dixox, 
48  Pine  Street,  New- York.  For  further  particulars  apply  to 
ALVIN  PEAVEY,  Manager,  Stonington,  Ct. 


MOUNT  MANSFIELD  HOTEL, 

STOWE,    VT. 

i:.EOisrA.iir)  love, 

MANAGER. 


- 


J20tli 

itel. 
and 
it  is 
joast. 

lyto 


This  Hotel  is  situated  at  the  beautiful  village  of  Stowe, 
Vt.,  10  miles  from  Waterbury  Station,  on  the  Vermont  Cen- 
tral Railroad,  from  which  six-horse  coaches  run,  on  the  ar- 
rival of  the  trains,  to  the  Hotel ;  time,  1^  hours.  There  is 
also  a  telegraph  to  Stowe.    The  hotel  is  fitted  in  the 

MOST    MODERN    STYLE, 

TTITH  GAS  AND  WATER  ALL  THBOUGn  THE  HOUSE. 

Also  bathing-rooms ;  and  will  accommodate  about  four 
hundred  guests.  There  is  also  the  Summit  House,  7^  miles, 
which  is  reached  by  stage,  6  miles,  and  saddle-horse,  1^ 
miles,  when  you  will  see  the 

MOST   MAGNIFICENT    VIEWS 

that  the  eye  ever  beheld,  giving  a  view  of  seventy  miles  of 
Lake  Champlain,  and  the  Adirondack  Mountains  in  New- York 
State,  and  twenty  distinct  ranges  of  mountains  in  Vermont 
State ;  also  fifty  townships  and  villages ;  and,  in  a  clear 
day,  Mt.  Washington  can  be  seen  with  the  naked  eye,  one 
hundred  miles  distant. 

There  is  a  livery-stable  of  seventy-five  horses  connected 
with  this  Hotel ;  and  there  is  no  place  in  New-England  that 
will  give  so  great  a  variety  to  the  pleasure-seeker  for  scenery 
and  drives  as  at  Mount  Mansfield.  And,  to  sum  up  in  a 
word,  you  "svill  regret  when  you  are  obliged  to  leave  ;  and 
will  say  the  story  of  this  beautiful  place  has  never  been  half 
published,  for  it  is  the  place  of  all  others. 


H: 


! 


CATSKILL  MOUNTAIN  HOUSE. 

THIS  FAVORITE  SUMMER  RESORT 

IS     l^OTW     OFBIsT     3POI^     "VISITORS- 

Stages  will  meet  passengers  at  the  Hudson  River  Railroad, 
New- York  and  Albany  Day  Boats,  and  Steamer  Thomas 
Powell.  The  Thomas  Powell  leaves  New- York,  Tuesdays 
and  Thursdays,  at  5  p.m.,  and  Saturday  at  2  p.m.,  foot  of 
Franklin  Street,  Pier  35.  Returning,  leaves  Catskill  on 
Mondays,  Wednesdays,  and  Fridays,  at  6  p.m. 


^^^^^llf.W,fl|l 


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NEWBURGH,  N.  T. 


TAes  First' Class  Mouse    wilt   he  opened  June  89th  for 

the   Season , 


H.  BLAKE,  Proprietor. 


I 

I 


CHA-RMIIIVG    (STJBIMEIl   IIETIII3A.T. 


SMITHSONIAN  HOUSE, 

AT   ]!VYA€K, 

On  the   Hudson,   25   miles  from  New- York, 

JLccessible  by  JBoats  and  Cars, 

Is  now  open  for  the  reception  of  permanent  and  transient 
guests.  Choice  rooms  can  be  secured  by  application  on  tiie 
premises. 

W.  p.  MUNROE,  Proprietor. 


is- 


HldHOATE  SPRINGS,  VT. 


•  »» 


GEORGE    AVERILL, 


Proprietor. 


-«♦•- 


for 


This  long  established  and  popular  resort  for  the  Pleasure- 
seeker  and  Invalid  is  now  open  for  the  reception  of  visitors. 

Situated  but  a  few  rods  from  Lake  Champlain,  where  the 
fishing  and  shooting  are  unsurpassed  in  the  State,  with  beau- 
tiful drives  in  all  directions,  together  wiih  the  well-known 


Curative  Properties  of  the  Water 

the  Proprietor  believes  that  visitors  will  find  themselves 
well  repaid  for  a  few  days  or  weeks  passed  in  this  quiet 
retreat. 

Good  Boats  and  experienced  oarsmen  in  attendance  at  all 
times.    Carriages  furnished  at  any  time. 

ALL  CHARGES  MODERATE. 


The  Vermont  Central  Railroad  lands  passengers  at  the 

door. 

GEO,  AYERILL. 


f  4f  IB  Sif  1 


AND 


^ 


MASSENA  SPHINO, 

On  tJio  Itaquctte  Miver^    8t,   Zaivrence    Co.,  If.   T, 

CROCKER   &   CO.,  Proprietors. 


-•♦♦- 


THE  UNITED  STATES  HOTEL,  with  its  Cottages,  is  beautifWly 
located  in  close  contiguity  to  the  Springs,  and  will  be  found  replete 
with  all  things  necessary  for  promoting  the  comfort  and  amusement  of 
the  invalid  or  pleasure-seeker.  Good  Fishing,  Gunning,  Boating, 
Riding,  etc.    Warm  Baths  of  the  Spring  Waters.    Terms  Reasonable. 

OXiOCItEIt    «Sfc    CO., 

JProprietors, 


•»• 


HOW  TO  GET  TO  THE  MASSENA  SPRING. 

From  New-York  and  the  South.— The  shortest  and  most  direct 
route :  Take  the  6.30  p.m.  Express  train  on  the  Hudson  River  Railroad, 
with  sleeping-cars  attached— purchasing  tickets  to  Potsdam  Junction 
via  N.  Y.  Central  and  Rome  and  Watertown  Railroad.  Another  'ery 
delightful  trip  maybe  arranged  thus:  Night  boat  on  Hudson  Rivt  to 
Albany,  Railroad  to  Whitehall,  Day  boat  on  Lake  Champlain,  stopping 
over  night  at  Plattsburgh ;  taking  the  cars  next  morning  for  Potsdam 
Junction  or  Brasher  Falls.  At  either  place,  carriages  will  be  found  in 
waiting  to  convey  passengers  to  the  Spring. 

From  Niagara  Falls,  the  West  and  South-West.— By  New- 
York  Central  and  Rome  and  Watertown  Railroad  to  Potsdam  Junction, 
or  by  Lake  Ontario  and  St.  Lawrence  River  Steamboats  to  Cornwall, 
passing  through  the  beautiful  scenery  of  the  Thousand  Islands,  and 
running  the  Long  Sault  Rapids.  Cornwall  is  connected  with  the 
Spring  Dy  ferry. 

From  Canada.— By  Grand  Trunk  Railroad,  or  Royal  Mail  Steamers 
to  Cornwall,  from  thence  to  the  Spring  by  ferry. 

From  Boston  "and  the  Eastern  States.— By  Ogdensburgh  and  Lake 
Champlain  Railroad  to  Potsdam  Junction  or  Brasher  Falls.  This  road 
connects  at  Rouse^s  Point  with  all  the  Eastern  Railroads. 

Time  Table  of  the  Sojne,  Watertown  and  Ogdensburgh  Bailroad. — 
Trains  leave  Rome  for  Potsdam  Junction  at  4.30  a.m.  and  5.25  p.m. 
Leave  Potsdam  Junction  for  Rome  at  6.45  a.m.  and  1.35  p.m. 


^9 


COOPER  COTTAGE, 


lk@mB  llsmm©fef)  Sfe  IT, 


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. 


lf7U  he   open  for   Guests   J'lme   /,    f86S. 


Address  M.  M.  LAIRD, 

Long  Branch,  cr  15  &  17  Whitehall  St.,  New- York. 

NOW   OPEN. 

PLEASANT  DRIVES,    HEALTHY  CLIMATE. 

Only  two  hours  from  New-York  via  New-Haven  Railroad. 

P.  D.  CARRIQUE. 

STAMFORD  HOUSE, 

Stamford,    Ct. 

m:r.  f.  ^w.  i»o]vi>. 

Formerly  in  the  U.  S.  Hotel  and  Parker  House,  Boston,  and  late 
Proprietor  of  the  Mayolis  House,  Nahant,  has  taken  the  above 
House,  in  the  beautiful  village  of  Stamford,  Ct.,  85  miles  from 
the  city  on  New-Haven  Railroad,  where  he  is  prepared  to  receive 
a  limited  number  for  the  season,  as  well  as  transient  guests.  The 
table  supplied  with  every  delicacy  ;  airy  rooms  ;  and  only  a  few 
minutes'  walk  from  the  depot,  through  a  broad,  shaded  street. 
Terms  moderate,  and  omnibus  to  cars  and  steamboat;  steamer 
commutes  for  $20  a  season. 


PLYMOUTH,  N.  H. 


•  •• 


This  elegant  and  spacious  hotel,  in  the  beautiful  village  of  Plymouth, 
in  the  valley  of  the  Pemigewasset,  near  its  confluence  with  Bakier's 
River,  and  just  at  the  opening  of  the  Mountain  Region,  is  now  ready 
for  the  reception  of  guests.  There  are  one  hundred  and  fifty  well- 
lighted  and  well-ventilated  sleeping-apartments,  in  suits  or  single 
rooms,  carefully  famished  with  a  studious  regard  to  the  comfort  and 
convenience  of  the  occupants.  Commodious  bath-rooms,  with  hot  and 
cold  ^ater,  spacious  parlors,  halls,  and  piazzas. 

This  is  the  most  picturesque  and  delightful  region  in  New  Hamp- 
shire, abounding  with  points  of  interest  to  the  tourist  and  seekers  of 
pleasure ;  among  these  are  Livermore  Falls,  which  for  wild  and  roman- 
tic scenery  are  not  surpassed.  "  They  are  probably  the  result  of  vol- 
canic action,  and  invite  the  attention  of  the  student  of  science  and 
lover  of  nature." 

Mount  Prospect,  with  a  carriage-road  to  the  summit,  commands  a 
view  of  thirty  miles  in  extent,  including  Lake  Winnipesaukee,  with  its 
numerous  islands,  surpassing  that  obtained  from  Mount  Lafayette  or 
Mount  Washington.  - 

Lake  Winnipesaukee,  Squam  Lake,  and  numerous  other  points,  all 
of  which  are  accessible  by  fine  carriage-roads.  No  pains  or  expense 
will  be  spared  to  make  the  Pemigewasset  the  home  of  the  tourist ;  and, 
it  is  believed,  with  its  advantages  of  situation  and  scenery,  it  presents 
attractions,  as  a  fashionable  summer  resort,  superior  to  any  in  the 
country. 

An  excellent  Quadrille  Band  has  been  engaged  for  the  season. 

A  Livery  Stable  is  connected  with  the  house,  and  good  teams  will  be 
in  readiness  at  all  times. 

Cars  leave  daily  for  Lake  Winnipesaukee,  giving  guests  an  oppor- 
tunity of  sailing  the  entire  length  of  the  lake,  and  returning  the 
same  day. 

Cars  also  leave  daily  for  the  Profile  and  Crawford  Houses,  via  Lit- 
tleton ;  and  stages  daily  for  the  Franconia  and  White  Mountains. 


J.  M.  FRENCH, 
C.  M.  MORSE, 


Managers, 


HEATH  HOUSE, 

Seli©@[©y's  d^Miiitaliii  SppbgSj, 

NEW-JERSEY, 

Opens  June  15th,  -with  terms  reduced.  For  particulars, 
route,  etc.,  address 

a  T.  COZZENS. 

(LATE   MR.    BLANCARD'S,) 

New-Brighton,  Staten  Island. 

Boats  from  foot  Dey  Street  every  hour.  This  elegant  hotel, 
so  near  and  convenient  to  Wall  Street,  is  now  open  for  the 
reception  of  guests,  and  fast  filling  up.  Persons  doing 
business  down-town  can  get  to  their  business  as  soon  as  if 
they  were  living  in  Fortieth  Street. 

KEYPORT  PAVILION, 

Keyport,  New-Jersey, 

will  open  on  the  1st  of  June  for  summer  boarders.  Splen- 
did Fishing,  Drives,  Bathing,  etc.  Terms  reasonable.  Boats 
leave  Keyport  at  7  A.M. ;  New-York,  foot  of  Barclay  Street, 
at  4  P.M.    Apply  to  the  Captain  on  boat,  or  address 

GEOEGE  J.  KIBBEE,  Proprietor. 


7 


^^tttinentol  Mmttl 


LONG  BRANCH,  N.  J. 

"WILHi     03PEIV     JXJJVE     1. 

For  Rooms  inquire  at  487  Broadway,  from  11  to  12  o'clock, 
and  at  33  Clinton  Place,  from  1  to  3  P.  M. 


mMM  ii¥l 


THIS  BEAUTIFUL  RESORT 


W.   C.   GIBSON,   Proprietor. 


XiONGJ-     BTRA-NCH, 


The  Finest  Summer  Hotel  in  the  Country. 


NOW  OPEN. 


STAGES     AT     DEPOT. 


WINDEMERE    HOUSE, 

Grecnurood  I^ako, 

M.    P.   BROWNING  &   CO., 

Monroe,  Orange  Cottnfy,  J^".  T, 
In   the  Sleepy  Kotlon'   Talley,  on  the   Calskitt  Mountains. 

Comfortable  Boarding-House  for  Pamilies. 

Stages   communicate   with    Steamboat   and    Railroad    at 
r  Catskill  Landing. 

SYLVESTER  THOMPSON,  CatskiU,  N.  Y. 


ISl 


Fort   "William.    Henry   Hotel. 
DANIEL  GALE,  Proprietor. 


FOREST    HOUSE^ 

Budds   Lake,  N.  J. 

OI>E3SrS      J-XJ3SrE      15- 

Conveyance  by  Morris  and  Essex  Railroad  to  Stanbope. 

Address  J,  M.  SHARP,  Proprietor. 


vif 


9 


CHERRY   VALLEY,    N.    Y., 

Ih  now  6pen  for  summer  boarders.   Omnibus  to  tlio  Sulphur 
Hprings.    Terms  moderate.    Apply  to 

G.  W.   SUTLIFF. 


|i 


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Open  from  Jnne  1  to  October  li 

Parties  wishing  to  engage  rooms  will  please  address 

GHAS.  E,  LELAND, 

Clarendon  Hotdy  Saratoga  Springs^  or  Dd^van  House^  Albany, 


P 


iiiiMii  iiif  ii 

(OPPOSITE  WEST  POINT,) 

Will  open  for  the  season,  on  TnuBSDAY,  June  4.    Parties 
wishing  to  engage  rooms  will  please  address 

G.  F.  &  H.  D.  GARRISON,  Proprietors. 

I.AKXS    MAHOPAC. 


-♦  ♦  ♦■ 


^a@ij;y!l^Mr 


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POST-OFFICE  AT  THE  HOUSE. 
RAILWAY  STATION,   CROTON   FALLS. 


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Pt.@©E¥ 

Tnis  loncr-estahllphed  and  favorite  Summer  Resort,  Bituated  on 
Narra^ansctt  Bay,  nearly  midway  between  the  cltie«  of  Providence  auil 
Newport,  illiode  Island,  will  be  opened  for  tlio  reception  of  guestB 

JFrom  the  First  of  Jufy  to  the  Fifteenth  of  September,  ISO'S. 

The  imderfipfncd,  having  leased  the  spacious  and  elegant  Hotel  at 
this  i)lace,  an;  now  thoroughly  renovating  it,  together  with  the  otlu'r 
"buimings,  and  also  the  grounds;  and  tliey  are  determined  to  spnir 
neither  pains  nor  expense  in  rendering  it  an  attractive  a  place  for  suti- 
mer  visiitors  as  can  be  found  in  the  United  States. 

Each  one  of  the  numerous  front  windows  of  the  Hotel,  as  well  !.t 
the  spacious  verandahs,  commands  an  extensive  and  fine  viev,  of  tlu- 
Bay,  and  also  of  numerous  Villages  on  the  eastern  siiore;  while  ai- 
tached  to  the  Hotel  are  forty  acres  of  hill  and  vale,  grove  and  lawn- 
making  ample  pleasure-grounds  for  the  guests. 

Sailing,  Fishing,  Sea-Bathing,  Bowling  Alleys,  Flyinrj  Horse'', 
Patent  Swings,  Shooting  Galieries,  etc.  Koclcy  Point  has  an  excellent 
Bathing  Beach,  for  the  convenience  of  its  guests,  and  forty  nicely  ar- 
ranged dressing-houses  are  accessible  to  it,  wliich  are  at  ail  times  in 
charge  of  competent  attendants. 

Urowii   «fc   lieevcs'   I?oi>iilar  Jlaiid. 

has  been  engaged  for  the  season,  which  will  furnish  music  for  dancing 
and  for  evemng  promenades.  This  Band  has  given  excellent  eatisfcic- 
tion  the  past  two  seasons,  and  is  pronounced  to  be  one  of  the  best 
corps  of  musicians  in  the  country. 

fonnded  upon  a  solid  roclc,  the  summit  of  which  is  one  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  aft'ords  a  charming  view  of  the  Bay, 
surrounding  towns  and  cities,  and  the  ocean. 

The  Western  Union  Telegraph  Company  has  an  office  in  the  Hotel, 
with  connections  in  all  parts  of  the  United  States. 

H  O  XJ  T  E. 

In  order  to  reach  Roclcy  Point  from  New-Yorlc,  parties  can  take 
the  Newport  steamers  from  Pier  28  North  River,  at  5  o'cloclc  p.m., 
change  boats  at  Newport  on  the  following  morning  for  Providence,  and 
arrive  at  their  destination  in  season  for  brealcfast.  Parties  coming  hy 
the  way  of  Providence  can  reach  Rocky  Point  bjr  the  boats  of  the 
American  Steamboat  Company,  which  leave  Providence  at  8.30  and 
9.45  A.M.,  and  2  and  5.30  p.m. 

To  Season  Guests.— Contracts  will  be  made  with  families  or  par- 
ties wishing  to  remain  through  the  season,  on  ;;easonable  terms.  All 
letters  addressed  to  De  Camp  &  Cole,  Rocky  Point  House,  Providence, 
R.  I.,  will  receive  prompt  attention. 


De  CAMP  &  COLE,  Proprietors. 


(. 


Rocky  Point,  April  1, 1868. 


f  1®  iaiiilil  Mrantsias 

AND   THE  REGION   AROUND. 
Their  Scenery,  Legends,  and  Features, 


WITH  SKETCHES,  IN  PROSE  AND  YERSB, 

By  COOPER,  IRYING-,  BRYANT,  COLE, 

AND  OTHER  EMINENT  WRITERS. 
By    Hev.    CHARLES    R,OOK:'V\^ELL. 

Illustrated.    One  volume  12mo,  extra  cloth,  350  pages,  $2.00. 

TAINTOR,  BROTHERS  k  CO.,  Publishers, 

}i29   BltOADWAT,   NEW-TOItK. 


]M[I]V]VESOTA. 


^^|f^fj^^ 


l^>'.OL''.li, 


WILLIAM    LEIP,    Proprietor. 

This  hotel,  beautifully  located  on  the  banks  of  White 
Bear  Lake,  is  now  complete  and  ready  to  accommodate 
boarders.  The  proprietor  has  spared  neither  pains  nor  ex- 
pense in  making  his  hotel  one  of  the  most  complete  and 
pleasant  residences  in  Minnesota.  The  rooms  are  large  and 
well  ventilated,  the  situation,  for  pure  and  healthful  air, 
can  not  be  surpassed,  and  the  distance  from  St.  Paul  being 
only  ten  miles,  renders  it  an  agreeable  drive.  From  an  ex- 
tensive garden,  managed  by  an  experienced  gardener,  the 
table  will  l^e  supplied  with  early  and  fresh  vegetables.  Fish, 
game,  and  all  delicacies  of  the  season,  always  on  hand. 
Fishing  and  Hunting  of  the  best  kind  in  the  immediate 
neighborhood. 

Picnic  parties  can  always  be  accommodated  with  safe 
boats,  inanaged  by  experienced  sailors,  to  all  parts  of  the 
Lake,  which  has  twenty-five  miles  of  shore.  Charges  eco- 
nomical. 


-f-»TJ--7f.-r^j»r:j,fT  ■^■"fri- 


ite 

ife 
the 


FRESH-SPICY-INDEPEMDEHT I 


ieto-§0rfe  ^bmin^ 


A  Sprightly  Record  of  Metropolitan  Life. 

PUBLISHED   IN   TWO   EDITIONS, 

EYERY  AFTERNOON, 

ATT   T^VO    CE]VTS    PER.   COPY. 


THE  MAIL  has  a  great  many  Special  Sketches  of  in- 
teresting city  characters  and  localities,  written  by  some  of 
the  spiciest  of  metropolitan  sketch-writers. 

THE  MAIL  will  keep  you  better  inf^med  upon  the  cur- 
rent Art,  Music,  and  Literary  news  of  the  world  than 
any  other  daily.    It  makes  a  specialty  of  these  departments. 

OUR    PARIS   CORRESPONDENT 

is  one  of  the  sprightliest  and  chattiest  now  writing  to  the 
New-York  press. 

FROm   WASHINOTOIV 

we  have  daily  dispatches  and  letters ;  two  of  the  most  en- 
terprising and  successful  correspondents  there  being  engaged 
for  THE  MAIL. 

For  all  these  entertaining  matters,  the  price  is  ONLY 
TWO  CENTS. 

Read  the  EVENING  MAIL,  and  prove  these  things  for 
yourself.  See  if  it  is  not  the  sprightliest,  liveliest,  and 
freshest  daily  published  in  the  city. 

CHARLES   H.   SWEETSER,  Editor. 


Publication   Office,  No.  229   Broadway. 


; 


nsffWH^HH 


CHEAPEST    OF    ALL! 


■  >m 


%i 


-TOEl  ami  l§if  §1, 

VIA 

Newport,  Fall  River,  and  Taunton. 

THE  MOST  DIRECT  ROUTE  TO 

Newport,    Fall  River,   Taunton,  New-Bedford,   Bridgewater,    Middle- 

boro,    Brainiree,    Plymouth,    Nantucket,   and   ail   places 

on  the   Cape  Cod  and   South  Shore   Railways. 

•'♦'• 

m 


Yp 


STEAMBOAT    E 

CAPTAIN     WILLIAM    BROWN, 
Tuesdays f   Thursday s,  and    Saturdays, 

STEAMBOAT    OL 

CAPTAIN    N.   B.   ALLEN, 

Mondays,    Wednesdays,   and  Fridays, 

FROM  PIER  28,  N.  R. 

FARE  TO    BOSTON— Cabin,   $2.00;    Deck,   $1.50;    Supper,  $1.00; 

State   Rooms,    $'..00  to  $3.00. 

Builders,  John  Englia  &  Son,  New-York,  1865.  Engine,  by  Novelty 
Iron  Works— 85-inch  cylinder,  with  12-feet  stroke.  Wheels,  42  feet  in 
diameter.  Extreme  length,  345  feet ;  breadth  of  beam,  80  feet  over  all. 
Tonna^^c,  2140.  State  Rooms,  150 ;  Berths,  400.  Joiner  work,  by  J.  E. 
Hoffraire.  Furniture  manufactured  l)y  the  Company.  Drapery,  Linen, 
Carpets,  etc.,  by  A.  T.  Stewart  &  Co."  Gas  Fixtures,  Silver  Plate,  etc., 
by  E.  V.  Haughwout  &  Co,    Lighted  by  Gas. 

WILLIAM  BROWN,   Captain. 
D.  G.  Kennet,  Ist  Pilot.  James  Finkel,  1st  Engineer. 

Thomas  Collins,  2d  Pilot.  Joseph  S.  Brown,  2d  Engineer.  ^ 

Theo.  Warren,  Clerk.  Wm.  Batcheluer,  Ist  Mate. 

L.  V.  TiLTON,  Steward.  He!tby  Thompson,  2d  Mate. 

OI^T>    CJOHiOlVY. 

Builders,  John  Englis  &  Son,  New-York,  1865.  Engine  by  the  Allaire 
Works— 80-inch  cylinder,  with  12-feet  stroke.  Wheels,  40  feet  in  diam- 
eter. Extreme  length,  342  feet ;  breadth  of  beam,  80  feet  overall ;  depth 
of  hold,  15  feet ;  Tonnage.  1960.  State  Rooms,  134 ;  Berths,  434.  Joiner 
work  by  J.  E.  Hoffmire.  Furniture  manufactured  by  the  Company. 
Drapery,  Linen,  Carpets,  etc.,  by  A.  T.  Stewart  &  Co.  Gas  Fixtures. 
Silver  Plate,  etc.,  by  E.  V.  Haughwout  &  Co.    Lighted  by  Gas  and 


heated  by  Steam. 

N.   B. 
Joseph  Cabb,  Ist  Pilot. 
Sanders,  2d  Pilot. 


ALLEN,    Captain. 

Alfred  Beebb,  Ist  Engineer. 
Edwd.  Saltpauqh,  2d  Engineer. 
David  Macaffree,  1st  Mate. 
James  Robinson,  2d  Mate. 


J.  B.  Brayton,  Clerk. 
George  A.  Rice,  Steward. 

The  splendid  Steamboats  " METROPOLIS"  and  "EMPIRE  STATE." 
also  belong  to  this  Line,  and  are  held  in  Reserve. 


»oat 
-^ier  . 


Jarranc 

[e  princ 

and  9: 

^Kiyn,  2( 

at  any  ( 

Fstinatioi 

^  S.  S.  0( 


>9 


NEW  DAILY  LINE  TO  NEW-HAVEN. 

For  Passengers  and  Freight. 


THE    STEAMBOATS 

W«®4¥ 

Capt.  a.  W.  snow. 


9 


Capt.  N.  A.  WILBUR. 


'drum 


an 

ta 


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One  of  the  above  Steamers  will  leave 

Pier  26  East  River,  foot  of  Peck  Slip, 

EVERY    NIGHT    AT    4    O'CLOCK, 

(SUNDAYS  EXCEPTED.) 

Meturning,  tvill  leave  Netv-Haven  every  night 

at  10  o^clocJc. 

Freight  taken  for  Canal,  New-Haven,  Hartford,  and 

Springfield,  and  New-Haven  and  New-London  Shore 

arranc     ^^i^E  RAILROAD,  at  lowest  rates, 
[e  princ 

i^rHml  S.  T.  STA]??NARD,  Snperiutendent. 

at  any  (I  —____, 

ptinatioil  / 

s.  g.  0(|  SAXTON  &  SEABUET,  Agents, 

112  South  Street,  and  on  the  Pier. 


1 
>oat 


h 


m  \\ 


Grand  Pleasure  Excursions  in  July  and  August. 

The  Round  Trip  of  more  than  2000  miles,  embraces  6  degrees  of  Lati- 
tude and  11  degrees  of  Longitude,  passing  through 

LaKes  Erie,  St.  Clair,  Huron,  and  Superior,  and  tlie  BeantiM  Rivers  Detroit, 

St.  Clair,  and  tie  Ste.  Maries, 

with  its  Thousand  Isles,  presenting  to  the  Tourist  for  Pleasure  or 
Health,  or  in  pursuit  of  Science,  more  real  Attractions  than  any  other 
on  the  Continent  of  America, 

IT  IS  ALSO  BY  FAR  THE  CHEAPEST  TRIP  OFFERED  TO  THE  TRAVELING  PUBLIC. 

The  PARE,  including  meals,  berths,  and  PASsAOELheing  less 
per  day  than  the  Prices  charged  by  First-Class  Hotels. 

t^^  No  one  should  fail  to  visit  this  interesting  and  wonderful  coun- 
try, with  its  Cool,  Healthful,  and  Invigorating  Climate.  Indeed,  no 
country  in  the  world  offers  such  inducements  to  the  invalid  as  that  of 
Lake  Superior.  To  the  Scientific,  we  point  to  the  immense  Mineral 
deposits  of  IRON,  existing,  as  they  do,  in  entire  Mountains  of  Ore, 
yielding  as  high  as  Ninety  per  cent  of  Pure  Iron ;  also  to  the  most  pro- 
ductive and  best  paying  copper  mines  in  the  world  •  to  the  newly  dis- 
covered Silver  Lead  Mines,  and  the  Rich  Gold  Fields  of  Vermilion 
Lake ;  to  that  astounding  wonder  of  Geology,  the  PICTURED  ROCKS, 
rising  out  of  the  Lake,  perpendicularly,  400  feet,  and  to  many  other 
curious  and  interesting  geological  formations,  too  numerous  to  men- 
tion here. 


1868. 


FOR  LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


1868. 


Tie  New  Stauncli  and  Elegant  Steamer  METEOR, 

THOMAS   WILSON,  Master, 
Will  Leave  Cleveland  on  ihe  following  days,  at  8  o'clock  P.M. 


Wednesday May  20 

Wednesday June  3 

Wednesday June  17 

Thursday July  1 

Wednesday July  15 

Wednesday July  29 


Wednesday August  13 

Wednesday August  26 

Wednesday September  9 

Wednesday September  23 

Wednesday October  7 


Will  Leave  Detroit  on  the  following  days,  at  10  o'clock  P.M. 


Thursday May  21 

Thursday June  4 

Thursday June  18 

Thursday July  2 

Thursday July  16 

Thursday Ju!y  30 

1^"  Calling  at  Port  Huron  and  Samia  on  the  next  morning,  after 

leaving  Detroit. 


Thursday August  13 

Thursday August  27 

Thursday September  17 

Thursday September  24 

Thursday October  8 


HANNA  &  CO.,  Agents,  Cleveland,  0. 
BUOKLET  &  CO.,  Agents,  Detroit,  Mich. 
J.  K.  WHITINa,  Manager,  Foot  First  Street,  Detroit,  Mich. 


A'lMi^a  til  MhriaiMMiii 


mimmttimimmiiuVMiin 


^^h<.^..»J^-*^^t.*«^.>^S..  A>aiWa^l^  .^;^»ifaMg4i-,»^^«..k... 


'  August, 

e^eos  of  Lati- 

Bi^ers  Detroit, 

r  Pleasure  or 
ian  any  other 

'ElINQ  PUBLIC. 

eing  less 
•tels. 

iderfiil  coun- 
Indeed,  no 
iid  as  that  of 
snse  Mineral 
ains  of  Ore, 
he  most  pro- 
e  newly  dis- 
f  Vermilion 
ED  ROCKS, 
many  other 
>us  to  men- 


1868. 


k  P.M. 

•A"^"etl3 
August  26 
>ptember  9 
►tember  23 
October  7 

P.M. 

A-ugust  13 
A^ugust  27 
tember  17 
member  24 
October  8 

r,  after 


it,  Mich. 


mimtm 


